Lough Gur

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Location: The crag is situated on a spur of land jutting out into Lough Gur. GR 645 410, Sheet 18, Tipperary.?

Approach: Lough Gur is well signposted from Limerick City. Take the T57 out of Limerick then the T50A where the T57 branches left. Turn left at Holycross and left again at Lough Gur cross. A short distance on is a further left turn into the Lough Gur Visitor Centre car park.

Access: Follow the footpath across the south side of the northern arm of the lake through a steel gate and past a further set of stone posts then trend left up the hill. The crag is set in a small valley cutting across the spur of the land (not visible from this side) - it is in two sections, a broken wall with easier climbs facing south across the southern arm of the lake and an overhanging wall facing east into the little valley. The rock is limestone.

Kilfenane Wall
Kilfenane O.P.C, early 1986
A pleasant climb, the most difficult section is on smallish holds near the top

Right of this the buttress is very broken. Two cracks are the most distinct features.

Crack One 6m Diff
Kilfenane O.P.C, early 1986

Crack Two 6m Diff
Kilfenane O.P.C, early 1986

Kilfenane Groove 6m V.Diff
Kilfenane O.P.C, early 1986
Takes the obvious groove at the right end of the buttress. Secure bridging all the way to the top makes this a fine little climb for its size and grade

Dead Spaghetti 4m 5a
W. Walker, 11.11.86
A short problem up the thin crack in the overhanging left wall of the corner.

Right again is a higher overgrown corner followed by an equally overgrown projecting buttress. To the right of this buttress is the overhanging wall on which the best climbing is to be found.

Cave Crack 9m VS 4c
P. Treacy, W. Walker, June 1986
Take the crack leading out of the cave at the left end of the wall

Dummycles 9m VS 5a
I. Gibson, 18.4.1987
Start: a few feet right of Cave Crack at a thin crack which leads into a groove capped by loose looking blocks. Turn these on the left and finish steeply up the wall

Golden Groove 9m Severe
W. Walker, P. Treacy, June 1988.
Takes a shallow groove 3m right of Dummycles. A good climb with the crux just below the top

Hangover HS 4a
Takes the centre of the leaning wall between the right arête of the overhanging wall and Golden Groove