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V550-571 Sheet 84 of the OS series.

This small island off the coast of Kerry has climbing on it's S and W cliffs. Access by swimming or small boat. There's no fresh water on the island.

Small Wall

This area is located on the south side of the island.

Small Wall.jpg

1. The Ripple Effect (HVS 4c, 8m)

J. Healy, R. Creagh, 06/06/13

Start at a rock pool under a small overlap. Climb up to the left end of the overlap and over this to a good hold in the slab. From here move slightly right and up to a short crack to finish. Gear is poor for the crux sections.

2. Left Crack (V. Diff, 8m)

J. Healy, R. Creagh, 06/06/13

Climb the left hand of the obvious cracks from directly beneath it.

3. Oystercatcher (Severe, 8m)

R. Creagh, J. Healy, 06/06/13

Climb the middle crack which starts at 2/3rd height. It might be harder if you're short.

4. Right Crack (V. Diff, 8m)

R. Creagh, J. Healy, 06/06/13

The right hand crack.

5. Trident Arete (Severe, 8m)

J. Healy, R. Creagh, 06/06/13

Start as for the previous route but move right to the arete at the first horizontal break. Resist the urge to move back to the crack and climb the airy arete to the top.

6. Humpty Dumpty (V. Diff, 8m)

J. Healy, R. Creagh, 06/06/13

Around the corner from the previous routes is a very obvious dihedral. Climb it.

7. Trasna an Falla Dubh (VS 4b, 12m)

R. Creagh, J. Healy, 06/06/13

Opposite Humpty Dumpty is a short black wall. This fun little route takes the higher rising crack starting from a short right-facing corner on the left of the wall. Well protected but make sure you keep the gear coming as you're never very far from the ground!

West Wall

A taller, west facing wall which tops out near the high point of the island.

West Wall 2.jpg

Commitment Issues (E1 5c, 22m)

R. Creagh, J. Healy, 06/06/13

Abseil in from a block in a little dip at the top of the route. Climb the chimney passing wedged blocks on your right. Take a moment to arrange protection and psyche yourself up for the overhanging exit groove.