Great Sugar Loaf

Getting to the Island There are two ferry companies serving the island. See Clareislandferry.com & Clareislandfastferries.com for details of sailings and fares.
Accommodation. You have a choice. Less than five minutes walk from the landing pier, and directly above the blue flag beach, is the island's only campsite. Small and basic, campers have the use of the community centre's toilets, wash-hand basins and coin-operated showers, located just 50m from the campsite. There is also a hotel, Go Explore, plus several B&B's and apartments to rent.
Getting around the island. You can walk, hire a bike (or bring your own) or, if there is a group, hire the island's only minibus. The nearest crag to the harbour is 5k away, not a huge distance, but time consuming if walking.

Note. All of the following crags are on land belonging to the owners of Cois Abhainn, a B&B located at the very end of the road leading W from the harbour. Seek permission from them before entering on the lands. Then return back down the road to a gate (The Gate) on the seaward side of the road, at a dip in the road and a stream, about 50 m below the cattle grid.

The climbing areas are described from East to West, the routes described from L to R facing the rock.

Scardóg  L673-841

From The Gate, while keeping the  fence on your right, follow it down and left for about 300m. Cross the fence at this point and go down over rock until Scardóg, a clean, black NW facing, 20m slab, comes into view.  Scramble down to the bottom of either side of the slab.  The climbs are described L to R facing the rock.

The first 3 climbs start from the bottom L of the slab, the remaining 3 from the bottom R

The Thrift.  V. Diff.  D. Walsh,  Andrea Spinu, Tim Nairn

Left of the main slab is a narrower slab, with a left facing corner with a crack on its right, and another crack 2m to its left.

Start. From the same stance as for Car Rose, Climb between the two cracks.

Car Rose HS.  P. O’Brien,  G.Moss 3.6.2022

From a stance, at the bottom L of the slab move up R and climb the steep left facing blocky corner that borders the left edge of the slab.

Black Magic S.

Start at the bottom L of the slab. Travers delicately and diagonally R for 5m to reach a crack. Climb this to the top. G.M., P.O’B. 23/6/22.

The next 3 climbs start from a ledge at  the bottom R of the slab

The Squeezed Middle V. Diff

Start at the bottom R of the slab. Traverse horizontally L crossing the lines of First Crack and Any Crack?  to reach a continuous crack near the centre of the slab.. Follow this to the top. G.M. D.W., P.O’B 23/6/2.

Any crack?  V. Diff.  DW P.O’ B., G.M 3.6.2022

Start as for First Crack Traverse 3m  left, and climb the bottom to top crack on left of quartzite markings.

First Crack.  V. Diff. P. O’B, G.M 3.6.2022.

Step left around the corner on the extreme right of the slab and climb the bottom to top crack immediately above.

There is scope for more routes immediately W of the sl

Craigmore Area

Approach Go through the gate and, keeping to the left of the fence, follow it down, passing a junction with another fence . Cross the fence and continue east for a short distance, until it is possible to scramble down to sea level. There is much yet to be done here. The first route follows a dark, narrow, undercut slab just above the high water mark.

14. Van Diesel. HS 4b. Climbed in two pitches to avoid rope drag.
J. Reville J. Byrne G. Moss 25/7/12.
1. Gain the slab from the L and climb it to a broad platform.
2. Move back to the juggy corner behind and climb it.

15. Three Point Turns. Severe.
J. Byrne, J. Reville, G. Moss 25/7/12.
This climb is found at the foot of a series of corners around to the E of 14. Start at the foot of a biscuit-coloured corner just left of a dark overhang. Climb the corner to a good ledge and continue up to finish through a break in the skyline.

Toormore

Approach.

From The Gate, follow the fence down to a junction with another fence on the R. Cross here and follow this fence to a junction with another fence running down from the road. Cross here and go down along the cliff top to a point above the prominent arch - Arch Buttress. The following areas are described in relation to the arch.

A minus = Kernan's Korner Wall, A = Arch Buttress, B = Arch Buttress Wall, C = Choc-a-Block Wall.

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Kernan's Korner Wall

50m west of Arch Buttress is a 20m wide Wall with a platform 3m above above high tide mark.

1. The Scholar-Gypsy Diff. 15m
P. Herbert, H. Olsson 06/07/14
From east end of platform, follow continuous crack in groove to the top.,

2. Roddy's Arête Diff. 18m
P .Herbert, H. Olsson 06/07/14
Start as for The Scholar-Gypsy and at 10m step out right on good hand and foot placements to small ledge on arête, continue up the arête or step right onto face to finish.

Scope for more routes on this wall.

Arch Buttress

GR 665 842. The first route is on the buttress with the prominent arch, almost directly below the end of the fence. Access is gained by scrambling halfway down the sloping ramp which starts a few m. E of the fence, stepping across the narrow channel (easier at low tide), and scrambling up and back right to reach the foot of the arete on the right side (facing in) of the seaward face. N.B. There is scope for more routes on this buttress.

1 Arch Rivals. Diff.

The L edge of the face.

G. Moss, C. McGovern. 4/6/22

. Arch Arete. V. Diff.

G.Moss, J.Byrne., J.Reville. 26/7/12.
The right arete of the seaward face of the arched buttress.

Arch Buttress Wall.
The next five routes are on the wall to the east of Arch Buttress and are reached by scrambling down the sloping ramp mentioned above. The climbs are described from left to right

2. Generous John. V. Diff.
J. Reville, J. Byrne, G. Moss 26/7/12.
The lefthand and narrower of two cracks near the bottom of the sloping ramp.

3. PeuJoe V. Diff.
J. Byrne, J. Reville, G. Moss 26/7/12.
The righthand and deeper of the two cracks near the bottom of the ramp.

The next 3 routes are reached by scrambling on down to the bottom of the ramp and stepping across a gap to reach a ledge at the foot of a leftfacing corner.

4. First Gear All The Way. V.Diff.
J. Byrne, J. Reville, G. Moss 27/7/12.
Climb the continuous crack in the corner.

5. Red Van Man. HS 4b.
J. Reville, J. Byrne, G. Moss 27/7/12.
Start as for 4. Step out right and climb the crack just right of the overhang, moving back leftbeneath the small overhang higher up the face.

6. The Pirate Queen. HS 4b.
G. Moss, J. Reville, J. Byrne 27/7/12.
Start as for 4. Hand traverse horizontally right along a thin crack and step up to a good ledge. Climb the thin crack above the right hand end of the ledge, finishing over jammed blocks.

Choc-a-Block Wall

The following 7 climbs are on the next face to the E and are accessed by scrambling down through a gap in the clifftop about 30 m E of the fence and moving left (facing out) to reach a good ledge system well above the highwater mark. The buttress is characterised by several blocky overhangs.

7. No Brakes. Diff.
J. Byrne, J. Reville, G. Moss 26/7/12.
This climb follows a line just left of the line of overhangs, to finish up via a notch in the skyline near the left edge of the face.

8. Carl's Magic Mackerel. M Severe.
J. Reville, J. Byrne, G. Moss 26/7/12.
Start just right of 7. Climb up through a gap in the overhang to gain, and follow, the crack in the upper face, 2m right of 7.

9. Gráinneuaile. Severe.
G. Moss, J. Byrne, J. Reville 26/7/12.
Start 3m right of 8, below a short, left facing corner capped by a blocky overhang. Climb the corner to the overhang, surmount this on good holds and continue straight up.

10. Two Car Family. Diff.
G. Moss, J. Byrne, J. Reville 26/7/12.
Start 3m right of 9, below a short right facing corner capped by an overhang. Climb up just right of the overhang and step left to a good ledge. Move a little left and finish up just left of a projecting block.

11. Go Explore. V. Diff.
J. Reville, J. Byrne, G. Moss 26/7/12.
Start 2m right of 10, below a line of sharp projecting blocks. Climb straight up over the blocks to the top.

12. Sucking Diesel. V.Diff.
J. Byrne, J. Reville, G. Moss 26/7/12.
Start 2m right of 11, below a wide crack 2m in from the right edge of the face. Climb straight up through the crack to the top.

13. Vantastic. V. Diff.
G. Moss, J. Byrne, J. Reville 26/7/12.
This climb follows the right edge of the face.