Gleann Chochan

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Binn Dhoire Chláir

1.5km east of Ben Lettery follow a surfaced track for 2km, turn west across valley. The crag is between Derryclare and Lop Rock at approx. L813507

Unnamed Route 1 35m S
R. McKee, T. Hawkins. January 1977.
Start on left side of the crag at a steep slab/wall. Climb easy broken rock for 15m. to stance. Step boldly out left for 1m. and straight up to near top where awkward step left leads to easier ground and finish.

New Year Climb 45m VD
R. McKee, T. Hawkins. January 1977.
Start at the base of the open corner near middle of face.
1. A bridging move and a quick delicate shuffle for good handholds overcomes the first difficult section. Plod up steep grass for 8m. (requires cleaning). Layback and more delicate footwork for 5m. (crux) leads to a stance. Belay.
2. From belay, avoid remainder of corner by stepping left onto a short slab. Ascend a groove to top.

Unnamed 2 50m S
R. McKee, T. Hawkins. January 1977.
Start just left of New Year Climb below a small overhang.
1. Ascend red slab and climb overhang direct. Traverse left for 10m. to first stance on New Year Climb and finish the pitch by climbing remaining 4m. of chimney. Belay.
2. Finish by climbing on right hand side of groove above.

Derryclare Buttress

Grid reference L 813 508. This buttress joins the ridge of Binn Dhoire Chláir from the west, a short distance short of the summit. It is visible from the top of the road up Gleann Cóchan on a bearing of about 60 degrees. It is seen as a clean castellated buttress on the skyline and is reached in about 1 hour from the road. Avoid parking at the laybys outside the house near the top of the road as they are used regularly by the sheep farmer for his sheep transporter. There are some spots further down the road. Much of the ascent is on steep vegetation and rock which requires care. The rock on the buttress is quite steep and of superb quality. It has a much rougher and more comforting texture than the rock in Gleann Eidhneach. There are plenty of holds and deep cracks which result from the fact that much of the buttress consists of enormous piled up blocks leaning against the mountain and which make the climbs easier than appears at first sight. Any of the routes could be incorporated into a traverse of the Binn an tSaighdiura/ Binn Dhoire Chláir ridge by a party equipped with a light rope and medium chocks

Main Slab 40m S
F. Winder/ B. Hannon September 1990.
This is the obvious slab on the left side of the buttress. It can be climbed by almost any line but the most attractive is straight up to the right of the most obvious groove in the slab. You are advised not to touch a group of small protruding blocks near the top.

Jammed Blocks Rib 30m D.
F. Winder, B. Hannon (descent) September 1990
A series of jammed blocks constituting a slight rib to the right of Main Slab.

Jammed Blocks Slab 30m VD
B. Hannon, F. Winder. September 1990
A narrow slab made up essentially of the faces of a series of blocks, many of them shared with the rib.

Main Corner 30m VD
F. Winder, B. Hannon. September 1990
The obvious right angled corner to the right of the jammed blocks region. It is best climbed as a slab, since the corner is vegetated and easy.

Broken Rib 30m VD
F. Winder, B. Hannon. September 1990
The rib to the right of Main Corner.

Right-hand corner 20m M
F. Winder. August 1990.
Similar to Main Corner but shorter and even easier.

CLIMBS ON DERRYCLARE. Note by Joss Lynam In discussion with Frank Winder, I have tried to check these routes against those in NCB 1974 and 1976. These climbs are obviously not on the Extrasystole cliff (NCB 74).

It seems unlikely that they are on the same buttress as the NCB 76 climbs which are recorded as being between Derryclare and Lop Rock whereas Franks are a short distance from the summit (of Derryclare). Frank thinks it conceivable but most unlikely that Main Slab is the same as Unnamed Route 1, and Main Corner the same as New Year Climb. He can't equate Unnamed Route 2 with anything that he saw.

The next climb is on the west side of Derryclare mountain at the southern end of the cliffs which stretches North/South. Take the first turn left, about 2km east of Benlettery Youth Hostel. This track (marked on the map) goes about 3km up the valley. The crag is seen on the right near the end of the track. Near the right hand end of the cliffs is one obvious part which is clean of vegetation. It is a band of unbroken rock leading to a heathery area beneath a final overhanging section. The climb takes a direct line from base to summit. Many other possibilities exist on this cliff.

Extrasystole 70m HS
Anthony Latham, Johnny Thorpe. 2.2.1975
1. 40m. Start beneath the obvious corner which is about 20m. above ground. Climb directly up to this. The steepest climbing is in getting onto a patch of heather (with small holly tree) which is in the corner. From the heather patch traverse left around the corner onto the face. Climb straight up on fairly good holds for about 25m. Chock belay. 2. 15m. Climb straight up to heathery slope beneath overhangs. Belay just under the most obvious wide crack in the overhang. Chock belay. 3. 15m. Move up heather on the left of the crack to enter crack from the left side. Do this by strenuously swinging up into it on good jug holds. Continue up the wall on the right of crack until easy ground is reached. Chock belay.