From Irish Climbing Wiki
Revision as of 13:19, 29 March 2021 by Boardtc (talk | contribs)
(diff) ← Older revision | Latest revision (diff) | Newer revision → (diff)

This small outcrop overlooks the village of Fore and its antiquities.

Salvage 50ft. S.
Start: 10ft. left of the edge of the outcrop, below the highest section of the rock.
Up over the bulge and continue until it is possible to traverse left for 5ft. and escape back right above the main overhang.
D. Walsh, S.R.Young. 3 June 1974.

A low-level traverse was also made, of about 100ft.

1974 VS?4c?(practiced on toprope)
Start as for Salvage,then from the bulge (overhead square block) move right under a flat roof (cams)to gain "the nose" of "the face"(small wire). Good holds in the horizontal break and more small wires overhead then tackle the main roof head-on with strenuous moves to top out taking care for loose rock.
G.Masterson, L.Jameson, 6/5/2017.

1974 direct Vs/hvs?
Both routes a tribute to the pioneers of this obscure little crag, start just right of "salvage" put on the blinders skip the bulge and head straight up over the main overhang and highest section of rock.
G.Masterson, A.Egan, 23/5/2019.


Anchorite's Cell 12m s 4a
start four meters left of salvage at a short overhanging corner, move right and up to another short corner, move right again just below the small roof and finish straight up.
H. Hennessy, C. Seery 8/8/2010

Foreplay 12m vs 4b
start one meter left of Anchorite's Cell, follow the crack to top.
H.Hennessy 3/5/2010

The life of Reilly 12m HS
Start one meter left of Foreplay. Follow the crack up to the obvious block. Continue straight up to top out between the hazel and hawthorn trees. HS 12m.
R.O'Reilly, R.Lynch 8-6-2017

3'n'4(Fore) 12m VS 5a
Start 3m left of foreplay. Step onto a good ledge and place first protection out right (offset nut). Layback move to gain better holds above (by small plant) progress quickly past this to rest point and 2nd piece of protection. Continue up and finish as for Wholly.
R.O'Reilly, R.Lynch 2-6-2017

Wholly 12m HS
Start 4m left of foreplay. Follow the left trending crack to 2/3 height then step out right to finish between 2 hazel trees.
R.O'Reilly, R.Lynch 22-5-2017

A bit Presumptuous 12m HvS 4c
Start 3m right of the left end of the crag under a small roof. Start on good holds to move up to the roof. Pull strenuously over the roof (crux, unprotected) to gain a good stance. (Rest and first gear) continue up and slightly right on decent holds to finish left of the holly trees.
R.Lynch, R.O'Reilly 8-6-2017

Ancient Brambles Arête 12m V Diff 3c
Start at the right end of the crag, 10M right of Salvage, and climb the Arête to a top pillar that can be slung. The Arête becomes more obvious as it's climbed and would be more aesthetic with some gardening. Bad brambles at the top meant an abseil off the pillar leaving gear in situ.
blog story
T. Corcoran, C. Airton 20/6/2013

Ancient brambles arete labelled.jpg

Immram (Diff)
Start downhill from the main crag to the right of the gully. Dash through the jungle slinging trees for protection. Walk right along the tree-obscured grassy ledge placing gear overhead before tackling the "headwall". Top out to a massive ash tree.
L. Smith, G. Masterson 7/7/17

Zardos speaks M.severe
Start 1M left of anc'brambles arête,climb to a small roof and offset nut placement,move right underneath the roof and straight up to a corner(nut placements),bridge up the corner and move left to another corner,finish up this on good holds but with little protection (small cam!?)could be severe.
G.Masterson L.Smith 8/7/2017

Road to ruin Severe
Scramble up the grass to the broken stump of an elder tree and arrange a small wire out to the left,climb up awkwardly around the stump and begin,bridge,crimp and jam up the cracked corner over a small roof,move right and continue up the"flint blade"arěte on to higher ground,mixture of large hexes and small to medium wires,rope folded to make two,generally good protection and holds but as always for this type of rock take care for loose sections.
G.Masterson K.McCourt 14/4/19

Flint blade V diff
Climb the stepped ridge on the far right of the outcrop 1m to the right of "road to ruin",a mildly tricky start leads to a couple of bold but enjoyable steps upwards toward slightly steeper ground and better gear,finish up the face and arěte on good holds and good gear(small to medium wires)nice climbing on interesting rock,but as always take care for loose bits
G.Masterson F.Gallagher 18/4/19