Cloch An tSagairt / Carrignahasta
Cloch an tSagairt (Map Ref. H035244) and Carrignahasta (H037248), two edges reminiscent of some of the smaller gritstone edges found in the Peak District. Both crags are shown and named on Sheet 26 of the N.I Discoverer Series of maps. The lower crag is less than twenty minutes walk from a car-park, the upper one is reached within half-an-hour.
THe crags are on Slievenakilla Mountain (Sliabh na Coilleadh 'mountain of the wood')above and east of Dowra. Slievenakilla is also known as The Playbank [OSI] or The Playground [OS ½"]. These names relate to the festive assembly held on the mountain on the last Sunday of July, at which sports and dancing took place (Máire MacNeill, 'The Festival of Lughnasa' (pp. 181-82). The mountain is also known as Carraignahasta.
Travelling North on the R207 from Drumshanbo to Dowra, take the first turn on the right (L 4296) after passing the sign welcoming you to the village of Ballinagleragh. This turning is a little left of a statue of the Virgin Mary, and a little right of the pub in the village of Ballinagleragh. Follow this road for 6 kilometers (3miles) up the North side of the valley, ignoring byroads on either side (two useful markers to confirm you are on the correct road are, a pair of ornamental swans on the gateposts of a bungalow and, further on, a sign for a Mass rock at the foot of a lane on your left.Follow this road/track until the dead end. I spoke with landowners here and they have no issues with access. The previous approach is no longer possible as the gate is now locked. From the dead end, go through the gate where the Mass rock is and follow a fence line directly to the crag (10 mins). The ground can be soft going at times.
Cloch an tSagart
The crag stretches over a distance of about 400m. The Western, or left section, is about 75m long, the Central section about 200m, and the Eastern, or right section, which ends at the fence marking the forest boundary, is about 50m in length. The left end of the Central section is situated directly above a gate in the fence running below and parallel to the crag and this is a useful marker. To the left of this (facing in)a line of small, broken buttresses and steep heather slopes stretches for about 50m to the Western section, where the first climbs are. Climbs are described from left to right and the sketches (the work of Terry O'Neill) will be of considerable help in identifying the routes.
The first buttress is undercut on it's left side.
Western Section
W1a = Black Mass (prior to cleaning). W1 = Into the West, W2 = Tayto.
W1a Black Mass HS 4b
Joe Reville, Gerry Moss 9/10/10.
Start at the bottom right of the buttress lying immediately to the LEFT of W1. Follow the right edge to a good ledge. Move up from here (crux) and finish up the face.
W1 INTO THE WEST HVS 5b
Terry O'Neill, Gerry Moss, 20/5/95.
Start on the left, below the undercut base. Strenuously over the undercut and finish straight up the wall.
W2 TATO VS 4c Terry O'Neill,. Gerry Moss, 20/5/95.
Start 2m right of Into the West. Climb the crack.
W3a BLACK HANDS Severe 4a
Margaret Casey, Martina Michels, 9/10/10
Start at the bottom left of the buttress immediately LEFT of W3. Climb up until high enough to move across right onto the arete. Climb to a ledge and step around right to finish up the short face.
W3 STRAIT AND NARROW HS 4b
Gerry Moss, Liam Convery, Emily Hackett, 4/10/92.
About halfway along the section there is a tall buttress which narrows to an arete and broadens again above an overhang. Climb the arete to the overhang, step out right (crux) and finish up the face.
W4 AN MHÉAR FHADA Severe 4a
Gerry Moss, Liam Convery, Emily Hackett, 4/10/92.
Start 3m right of Strait and Narrow. Climb a short, thin crack to a good ledge on the left edge. Up the edge on improving holds.
An Mhéar Fhada
N.B.The route numbers are incorrectly shown on the above sketch. W.5 and W6 are on the righthand buttress and W7 is 10m to the right again.
A = October, B = In God's Pocket, C = State of Equilibrium.
W5 OCTOBER VS 4b
Emily Hackett, Gerry Moss, Liam Convery, 4/10/92.
A few metres to the right of An Mhear Fhada there is a short, square-shaped buttress with a crack running up the face. Climb the crack.
W6 IN GOD'S POCKET S 4c Gerry Moss, Liam Convery, Emily Hackett, 4/10/92. Start 1.5m right of October. Gymnastic moves up to gain the solution pockets. Finish on small holds.
W7 STATE OF EQUILIBRIUM S
Liam Convery, Emily Hackett, Gerry Moss, 4/10/92.
10m to the right of In God's Pocket there is a buttress with a deep, wide crack, slanting up right to an overhang. Climb the crack to the overhang and step out left (crux) for an airy finish.
State of Equilibrium
Central West Section
"A small outcrop just before central section. Bounded on both sides with grassy descent routes.
CW 1 MIRIAMO HS 4b
Terrance Glancy, Willie J Whelan, 9/10/10
Far left corner. Straight up, then trend leftwards to top. Sustained and slightly overhanging throughout.
CW 2 BAD REPORT VS 4b
Terrance Glancy, Willie J Whelan, 9/10/10
4m right of Miriamo. Surmount the overhang strenuosly to gain the crack above. Continue straight up the face.
Central Section
The first buttress, which is directly above a gate in the fence below the crag, has a heather-capped shoulder on it's left and is bounded on the left by a grassy slope providing an easy means of descent.
C1a DEDALUS. VS 4b
Terrance Glancy, Willie J Whelan, 9/10/10.
Start 2m LEFT of the rocking block mentioned below. Climb the face to the left of the blunt arete.
C1 ROCK OF AGES. HS 4b
Gerry Moss, Emily Hackett, Liam Convery, 6/6/92
Start from a small rocking block Climb steeply to the bulge. Surmount this and continue up the blunt arete.
Rock of Ages
C2 REPENT! REPENT! VS 4b
Gerry Moss, Terry O'Neill, 20/5/95
Start 2m right of Rock of Ages, below a small overhang. Surmount the overhang and move up right to the edge. Step back left to finish.
C3 BLESS MY SOUL HS 4a
Gerry Moss, Emily Hackett, Liam Convery, 6/6/92.
Start 3m right of C2, at the bottom of the narrow grassy gully and just left of the lowest overhang. Good holds lead to the foot of the arete, which provides the crux.
C4 INTROIBO S
Liam Convery, Emily Hackett, Gerry Moss, 6/6/92. Start a few meters right of C3 and just left of the lowest overhang. Climb up and right to gain a short crack which leads to a square, vegetated recess. Move right to finish.
C5 WE'RE NO ANGELS S Gerry Moss, Emily Hackett, 21/6/92
Interesting climbing up the centre of the face.
C6 PILGRIM'S PROGRESS HS 4a
Gerry Moss, Emily Hackett, 21/6/92
A high step leads to fine climbing directly up the narrow face. Difficulties increasing with height.
C7 I'M A BELIEVER MS
Gerry Moss, Terry O'Neill, Emily Hackett, 19/9/92.
Start below a crack which starts above some blocks and fades just below a small white patch on the face. Climb the crack and move up right to gain the heather ledge just left of a pointed block. Finish up the crack above.
C7a Return to the Fold V.Diff
G. Moss. 14.08/2011
Start at the foot of the arete, just left of I'm a Believer. Climb the arete.
C8a MEN OF THE WEST VS 4b
Terry O'Neill, Gerry Moss, Sean McMahon, 17/8/96
Climb up right over small overhangs to finish right of large overhang.
C8b SHOULD I GO, SHOULD I STAY E2 5b
Terry O'Neill, Gerry Moss, 13/5/00
Start below large overhang. Climb wall left of overhang until below smaller overhang. Move out right and up the face.
Should I Go Or Should I Stay
C8c LITTLE DIVIL VS 4b
Gerry Moss, Terry O'Neill, 11/6/95
The groove running up right of the overhanging face.
C9 LITTLE ANGELS HS 4b
Terry O'Neill, Gerry Moss, 19/9/92.
Start around to the right from Little Divil at the foot of the right-facing wall, below a short slanting zigzag crack. Climb the crack, and move left to a ledge. Finish up the centre of the wall above.
Little Angels
To the right of Little Angels there is a break in the crag, where a little grassy path zigzags up through broken rock. This area is bounded on the right by a buttress which has, on it's left side, a short, deep chimney, with a chock stone in it's upper section.
C10 DRUID VS 4b
Terry O'Neill, Gerry Moss, Emily Hackett, 19/9/92.
Start about 4m. down from the short chimney, below the narrow, crooked pillar. Climb the pillar, step right above the overhang and finish up the centre of the wall.
C11 YE OF LITTLE FAITH VS 4c
Gerry Moss, Emily Hackett, Terry O'Neill, 10/10/92.
Start below the face, to the left of a flat-topped block. Short cracks and solution pockets lead to a ledge below the jammed blocks. Step right and pull steeply over blocks to finish up the centre of the face.
Ye of Little Faith
C12 EARLY CHRISTIANS S
Gerry Moss, Emily Hackett, 10/10/92.
Start 3m right of C11 below and right of the flat-topped block. The climb follows the right edge of the face with one difficult section, at the jammed block.
C13 JUNE VD
Emily Hackett, Gerry Moss, Liam Convery, 6/6/92.
Climb the wide crack and the two jammed blocks.
A few meters to the right of C13 there is a narrow, inset buttress, with a wide crack on either side. These cracks are routes C14 and C15.
C13a HEADBANGER HS 4b
Gerry Moss, Martina Michel, 9/10/10.
Just left of the narrow, inset buttress mentioned above, there is a squat pillar leaning against the face. Start at the bottom right of the pillar. Climb to a stance on top of the pillar, step across the gap and up steeply to an awkward mantelshelf. Move across to a second gap, step over and finish up the short wall. Belay well back.
C14 JUNE EILE VD
Emily Hackett, Gerry Moss, 21/6/92.
Start below the crack on the left side of the narrow, inset buttress. Climb the crack to the top.
C15 JUNE TRI VD
Emily Hackett, Gerry Moss, 21/6/92.
Start 3m. to the right of C14, below and left of the right-hand crack. Climb a short wall to the left of some jammed blocks and move right above to finish.
C15A Stairway to Heaven V.Diff
August 2010
Start at the foot of the easy-angled buttress just right of the narrow inset buttress. Climb directly to the top.
C16 STAG IN THE PARK HVS 5a/b
Terry O'Neill, Sean McMahon, Gerry Moss, 17/8/96.
Start at the bottom left of the face. Climb steeply to a small ledge below the smooth upper face. Delicate moves lead to better holds.
C17 SCRAP SATURDAY HVS 5a
Terry O'Neill, Emily Hackett, Gerry Moss, 10/10/92. Start 3m right of Stag in the Park, below a crack running up through the overhangs on the right-hand side of the face. Good holds lead to a ledge below and right of the projecting block. Gain the block and pull above the overhang to a small ledge. Delicate moves to finish. Stake belay (in situ).
C18 KISS MY RING VS 4b Gerry Moss, Emily Hackett, Terry O'Neill, 10/10/92.
Start from the top of a long, narrow block below the undercut right-hand wall. Steep moves up and left to a stance on the edge are followed by the blunt arête to the heather-cap. From the right-hand side of this step across the gap and climb the right edge of the wall. Peg belay (in situ).
C19 OCTOBER EILE S
Emily Hackett, Terry O'Neill, Gerry Moss, 10/10/92.
Start as for Kiss My Ring. Climb diagonally right and enter the chimney. Gain a ledge on the back wall, below a short crack with a jammed block. Step up onto the block and climb the crack (crux). Belay as for Scrap Saturday.
C20 SEPTEMBER HS 4b
Emily Hackett, Gerry Moss, Terry O'Neill, 19/9/92.
Start 3m to the right of the deep chimney, at the foot of a narrow crack which runs up the corner on the right side of the overhang. Lay-back or bridge the corner on sharp holds. Belay as for Scrap Saturday.
C21 FATHER TED VS 4c
Terry O'Neill, Gerry Moss, Emily Hackett. 19/9/92.
Start 3m right of September, below a shallow crack. Climb the crack with small, fingery holds to finish.
dont forget your boulder mat VS 5a
H.Hennessy, B.Seery. 19/3/11.
Climbs the arete two meters right of father ted. nice climbing leads up to an interesting top out.
C22 DON'T FORGET YOUR WELLIES D
Liam Convery, 4/10/92
Climb the flake-filled chimney.
C23 ON A WING AND A PRAYER VS 4b
Gerry Moss, Bob Norton, Emily Hackett 12/9/92.
Climb the crack and the overhang to finish up the centre of the face.
C24 PAX VOBISCUM VS 4c
Gerry Moss, Terry O'Neill, Emily Hackett 19/9/92.
Start below the overhang. Strenuously up onto a projecting block to the left of the overhang. Step right and move up to gain a bulging ledge, and finish on small holds.
C24A Balor HS 4b
Gerry Moss, Jane Byrne, Margaret Casey 21/08/2011
Start around to the right from Pax Vobiscum below a circular hole in the right-facing wall. Climb up past the hole to the top.
C25 LOT'S PILLAR D
Bob Norton, Emily Hackett, Gerry Moss, 12/9/92.
Climb the face of the pillar.
C25a Unnamed HVS 5a
DCU 13/5/00
The slanting crack on the face to the right of Lot's Pillar
C26 SEPTEMBER EILE D
Emily Hackett, Gerry Moss, Terry O'Neill, 19/9/92.
Climb the corner immediately right of Unnamed. on large holds.
C27 OCTOBER TRI D
Emily Hackett, Terry O'Neill, Gerry Moss, 10/10/92.
Climb the edge of the wall immediately right of September Eile on good holds.
C28 SEPTEMBER TRI VD
Emily Hackett, Gerry Moss, Terry O'Neill, 19/9/92.
Start 4m right of October Tr?, just right of a short, deep, zigzag crack. Climb the right edge of the wall to a mantelshelf finish.
Easten Section
A small iron cross, is set in the rock just above and left of the left end of this section. The foot of the first climb is best reached by abseiling from some blocks below and East of the cross.
E1 CYCLOPS HVS 5a
Gerry Moss, Terry O'Neill, 10/6/95
Start below a short, steep wall beneath a slab. The slab has a distinctive brown circular patch near its centre. Move up left, then back right over a little bulge to the patch and finish direct.
E2 HOLLOW GROANS S
Gerry Moss, Terry O'Neill, 11/6/95
The next slab to the right.
E3 MADRA RUA HVS 5b
Terry O'Neill, Gerry Moss, 10/6/95
Start at the bottom left of the overhanging wall. Up steeply to gain ledge. Exit via crack formed by block overhang.
E4 FENCE LINE HVS 5a
Terry O'Neill, Gerry Moss, 10/6/95
2m right of Madra Rua. Climb to ledge and surmount overhang.
Carraihnahasta (The upper crag)
An Overview Of Carraihnahasta
Photo: Miles Newman
THIS HASTA BE HEAVEN S
Gerry Moss, Emily Hackett, Liam Convery, 6/6/92.
The crag is bounded on the left by a wire fence. Start about 4m right of the fence below a a short corner with a steep right-hand wall. Climb the corner and step right to a ledge, or, climb the wall direct to the ledge, harder. Move right and climb the exposed arête to the top.
ON BENDED KNEE VS 4c
Gerry Moss, Emily Hackett, Liam Convery, 7/6/92.
The next buttress has, on it's top left, a large, projecting block with an obvious circular indentation on it's underneath side. Start at the foot of the deep crack which runs up through the overhangs. Climb the crack, strenuous to start and awkward to finish.
EASY CORNER D
Emily Hackett, Gerry Moss, Liam Convery, 7/6/92.
Start below the corner immediately right of the previous buttress.
CANNON BALL VD
Liam Convery, Emily Hackett, Gerry Moss, 7/6/92.
Start below the left hand side of the next buttress. Climb this on good holds, a feature of the climb being the circular indentations. Climb the corner to the top.
PACK OF CARDS HS 4c
Ben March, John Guy 13/5/00
To the right of Cannon Ball there is a buttress with a prominent pointed roof at the top. Start to the right of the roof. Climb a short vertical crack to a ledge. Move right 1m and climb up through two undercut holds, trending slightly rightwards and then straight up the wall above.
CHIMNEY AND WALL HS
Liam Convery, Emily Hackett, Gerry Moss, 6/6/92.
Halfway along the crag there is a prominent buttress with a steep right-hand wall and a fine, narrow arête. Start below the right-hand wall. Chimney up between the wall and the buttress on the right to gain a good ledge on the right. Step across and traverse diagonally left to the top of the wall.
THE ARÊTE HVS 4c
DCU 13/5/00
The narrow arête mentioned above.
GRIT CORNER D
Emily Hackett, Gerry Moss, Liam Convery, 6/6/92.
The buttress to the right of Pack of Cards. has a series of heather ledges on it's face. Immediately right of this is a buttress with a deep, left-facing, zigzag crack. Start below the corner between these two buttresses. Climb the corner on good holds.
JIMMY CALNEY E1 5c
Ben March, John Guy, 13/5/00
Start at the foot of the zigzag crack mentioned above. Expect to lose some knuckles on this one. Climb the crack through the overhang (good gear below the crux). Fist jam the wide crack above and pull up strenuously to reach the horizontal section. Continue straight up.
HIDDEN CORNER VD
Emily Hackett, Liam Convery, Gerry Moss, 7/6/92.
Further right there is a deep recess at the back of a tall block. Bridge up between the block and the wall.
DEEP CHIMNEY D
Emily Hackett, Gerry Moss, Liam Convery, 7/6/92
Start about 12m left of the fence which forms the right-hand boundary of the crag below an obvious, deep, left-facing chimney which splits the crag from top to bottom. Climb the chimney, moving left to finish.
STAIRWAY TO PARADISE S
Gerry Moss, Liam Convery, Emily Hackett 7/6/92
To the right of route 11 and left of a broken buttress just inside the fence, there is a tiered buttress. Start a little right of centre, from a flat block, below the undercut base. Make some difficult moves, crux, to gain a series of good ledges. Move left to the highest of these and up the short slab to finish.
Overview
A lovely little crag well worth a day's visit. All the routes have bomber gear in abundance and handholds are also positive even when small. A mild amount of cleaning is required for most routes but this does not reduce the overall quality of them.
