Brandon East Buttress

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This information is taken from New Climbs 1984.

The buttress is situated in the Esk valley, just south-east of Cnoc Bréanainn. It is an obvious large wall rising up to 165m. The wall comes into condition after a few days of dry weather. It is divided at 250 ft., by a large grass terrace, which can be used as an escape route to the L.

Place of Penance 165m VS

Start: the climb is situated just L of the centre of the buttress, starting at the obvious gully.

1/. 27m VD Climb gully to belay on large ledge on R.

2/. 20m HS Climb up to reach large crack (protection good). Belay at top of crack on small ledge.

3/. 13m VS L-hand wall can be wet. Climb up to crack. Climb crack, using flake on L-hand wall to lay-back. Belay on grass ledge. Point of aid used due to slippery conditions.

4/. 20m S From belay climb crack slightly to the R, to reach the large grass terrace.

5/. 42m HS The top half of the buttress is divided by a large gully. Just L of the gully and slightly R of large crack, climb arete on delicate holds to reach overhang. Turn overhang on R to belay at grass ledge facing gully.

6/. 42m HS Climb crack in corner. Continue on, to climb three short walls that are split by cracks (protection good).

Alpine style climbing for 135m. Continue on to the Cnoc Bréanainn Summit.

M. Barry, P. Quinn (alternate leads). July 1983