Difference between revisions of "An Dún Mór / Dunmore Head"
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| − | This information is taken from New Climbs 1984. | + | This information is taken from New Climbs 1984. |
'''An Dún Mór, Dingle Peninsula.''' Sheet 70 OS Dicovery Series.<br> | '''An Dún Mór, Dingle Peninsula.''' Sheet 70 OS Dicovery Series.<br> | ||
| − | This sea cliff is situated west of Com Dhíneol. GR Q 308 980. Follow a sheep track towards head until cliff can be seen below and to the L. Follow track down between upper and lower tiers. | + | This sea cliff is situated west of Com Dhíneol. GR Q 308 980. Follow a sheep track towards head until cliff can be seen below and to the L. Follow track down between upper and lower tiers. |
| − | |||
| − | |||
| + | === Top Tier === | ||
'''Initiation''' 13m HS<br> | '''Initiation''' 13m HS<br> | ||
| − | M. Barry, P J Quirke 1980.<br> | + | ''M. Barry, P J Quirke 1980.''<br> |
Start: obvious slanting V is the route of 'Iniation'.<br> | Start: obvious slanting V is the route of 'Iniation'.<br> | ||
| − | Climb inside of V until spur. Climb R wall and continue on to belay at grass slope. | + | Climb inside of V until spur. Climb R wall and continue on to belay at grass slope. |
| − | |||
'''Haemmorrhage Heights''' 18m HS<br> | '''Haemmorrhage Heights''' 18m HS<br> | ||
| − | M. Barry, P. Quinn April 1983<br> | + | ''M. Barry, P. Quinn April 1983''<br> |
Start: 7m R of 'Initiation' and slightly R of overhang.<br> | Start: 7m R of 'Initiation' and slightly R of overhang.<br> | ||
| − | Follow obvious narrow crack to vertical wall. Climb crack slanting L. | + | Follow obvious narrow crack to vertical wall. Climb crack slanting L. |
'''Terra Infirma''' 23m HS<br> | '''Terra Infirma''' 23m HS<br> | ||
| − | M. Barry, P. Quinn April 1983.<br> | + | ''M. Barry, P. Quinn April 1983.''<br> |
Start 3 m R of 'Haemmorrhage Heights'.<br> | Start 3 m R of 'Haemmorrhage Heights'.<br> | ||
| − | Climb crack that starts with small overhang(runner below loose stone). Climb through to exit at top of V. (Poor protection). | + | Climb crack that starts with small overhang(runner below loose stone). Climb through to exit at top of V. (Poor protection). |
| − | + | === Bottom Tier === | |
| − | + | Going from L to R facing crag there are a number of climbs of up to VD standard for 13m from R-hand corner. | |
| − | |||
| − | Going from L to R facing crag there are a number of climbs of up to VD standard for 13m from R-hand corner. | ||
'''PJ's Flight''' 13m MS<br> | '''PJ's Flight''' 13m MS<br> | ||
| − | M. Barry, P J Quirke 1980<br> | + | ''M. Barry, P J Quirke 1980''<br> |
Start; above small rock pool at little alcove.<br> | Start; above small rock pool at little alcove.<br> | ||
| − | Climb crack starting at R-hand side for 5m. Continue straight and climb bulge. | + | Climb crack starting at R-hand side for 5m. Continue straight and climb bulge. |
| − | |||
'''Seal Sights''' 10m S.<br> | '''Seal Sights''' 10m S.<br> | ||
| − | M. Barry, P. Quinn August 1982<br> | + | ''M. Barry, P. Quinn August 1982''<br> |
Start: 3m L of 'PJ's Flight'.<br> | Start: 3m L of 'PJ's Flight'.<br> | ||
| − | Climb from top of ramp to exit out on small but good holds. | + | Climb from top of ramp to exit out on small but good holds. |
'''Moon Dance''' 13m VS<br> | '''Moon Dance''' 13m VS<br> | ||
| − | M. Barry, P Quinn August 1982<br> | + | ''M. Barry, P Quinn August 1982''<br> |
Start: L of 'Seal Sights' are two bulges. Up the centre of these is the line of 'Moon Dance'<br> | Start: L of 'Seal Sights' are two bulges. Up the centre of these is the line of 'Moon Dance'<br> | ||
| − | Climb first overhang on delicate holds. Climb second at niche (protection scarce). | + | Climb first overhang on delicate holds. Climb second at niche (protection scarce). |
'''Zipper''' 15m MS<br> | '''Zipper''' 15m MS<br> | ||
| − | M. Barry, P J Quirke 1980.<br> | + | ''M. Barry, P J Quirke 1980.''<br> |
Start: in corner L of 'Moondance'.<br> | Start: in corner L of 'Moondance'.<br> | ||
| − | Climb crack for 6m. At overhang take L-hand side and follow crack. | + | Climb crack for 6m. At overhang take L-hand side and follow crack. |
'''Pat's Hat''' 15m S<br> | '''Pat's Hat''' 15m S<br> | ||
| − | M. Barry, P. Quinn.<br> | + | ''M. Barry, P. Quinn.''<br> |
| − | 5m L of 'Zipper' climb corner to overhanging roof, traverse R under overhang to out on 'Zipper'. | + | 5m L of 'Zipper' climb corner to overhanging roof, traverse R under overhang to out on 'Zipper'. |
'''Horace''' 15m VD<br> | '''Horace''' 15m VD<br> | ||
| − | M. Barry, P J Quirke 1980.<br> | + | ''M. Barry, P J Quirke 1980.''<br> |
| − | Start: as for Pat's Hat, keeping L at overhang. Follow crack to top. | + | Start: as for Pat's Hat, keeping L at overhang. Follow crack to top. |
'''Pinch''' 16m VD<br> | '''Pinch''' 16m VD<br> | ||
| − | M. Barry, P J Quirke 1980.<br> | + | ''M. Barry, P J Quirke 1980.''<br> |
Start: 10m L of 'Horace'.<br> | Start: 10m L of 'Horace'.<br> | ||
| − | Climb crack to L-hand side of slab. | + | Climb crack to L-hand side of slab. |
'''Adrian's Wall''' 23m HS<br> | '''Adrian's Wall''' 23m HS<br> | ||
| − | P. Quinn, A. Devlin 1981.<br> | + | ''P. Quinn, A. Devlin 1981.''<br> |
Start; on west side of crag, where the red and grey rock meet is the line of the climb.<br> | Start; on west side of crag, where the red and grey rock meet is the line of the climb.<br> | ||
Climb the corner to just below line of vertical quartz rock. Traverse L and step out to reach spur (runner). Continue across and up to the R to climb chimney.<br> | Climb the corner to just below line of vertical quartz rock. Traverse L and step out to reach spur (runner). Continue across and up to the R to climb chimney.<br> | ||
Latest revision as of 20:28, 29 March 2021
This information is taken from New Climbs 1984.
An Dún Mór, Dingle Peninsula. Sheet 70 OS Dicovery Series.
This sea cliff is situated west of Com Dhíneol. GR Q 308 980. Follow a sheep track towards head until cliff can be seen below and to the L. Follow track down between upper and lower tiers.
Top Tier
Initiation 13m HS
M. Barry, P J Quirke 1980.
Start: obvious slanting V is the route of 'Iniation'.
Climb inside of V until spur. Climb R wall and continue on to belay at grass slope.
Haemmorrhage Heights 18m HS
M. Barry, P. Quinn April 1983
Start: 7m R of 'Initiation' and slightly R of overhang.
Follow obvious narrow crack to vertical wall. Climb crack slanting L.
Terra Infirma 23m HS
M. Barry, P. Quinn April 1983.
Start 3 m R of 'Haemmorrhage Heights'.
Climb crack that starts with small overhang(runner below loose stone). Climb through to exit at top of V. (Poor protection).
Bottom Tier
Going from L to R facing crag there are a number of climbs of up to VD standard for 13m from R-hand corner.
PJ's Flight 13m MS
M. Barry, P J Quirke 1980
Start; above small rock pool at little alcove.
Climb crack starting at R-hand side for 5m. Continue straight and climb bulge.
Seal Sights 10m S.
M. Barry, P. Quinn August 1982
Start: 3m L of 'PJ's Flight'.
Climb from top of ramp to exit out on small but good holds.
Moon Dance 13m VS
M. Barry, P Quinn August 1982
Start: L of 'Seal Sights' are two bulges. Up the centre of these is the line of 'Moon Dance'
Climb first overhang on delicate holds. Climb second at niche (protection scarce).
Zipper 15m MS
M. Barry, P J Quirke 1980.
Start: in corner L of 'Moondance'.
Climb crack for 6m. At overhang take L-hand side and follow crack.
Pat's Hat 15m S
M. Barry, P. Quinn.
5m L of 'Zipper' climb corner to overhanging roof, traverse R under overhang to out on 'Zipper'.
Horace 15m VD
M. Barry, P J Quirke 1980.
Start: as for Pat's Hat, keeping L at overhang. Follow crack to top.
Pinch 16m VD
M. Barry, P J Quirke 1980.
Start: 10m L of 'Horace'.
Climb crack to L-hand side of slab.
Adrian's Wall 23m HS
P. Quinn, A. Devlin 1981.
Start; on west side of crag, where the red and grey rock meet is the line of the climb.
Climb the corner to just below line of vertical quartz rock. Traverse L and step out to reach spur (runner). Continue across and up to the R to climb chimney.
