An Charraig Ard
These climbs are taken from New Climbs 1983.
This is a small sea crag found on the western tip of the Dingle Peninsula to the south of Clogher Head (GR Q 30 02). It can be seen as an obvious black slab to the L as you go along the road from Dunquin towards Clogher Head. Cars can be parked off this road in a rough car park on the broad col between Clogher Head and Minnaunmore Rock. From here a walk south-west of about 400m brings you to the top of the crag. The best descent is to the L of the crag as you approach and involves a short and easy rock step (cairned) which gives access to an extensive flat platform (non-tidal) below the cliff. The crag takes the form of a large variably-angled slab on the L and a series of corners and large overhangs on the R. The rock is a form of volcanic ash, which has weathered to pockets and sharp holds, often with a popcorn like texture. Climbs are described from L to R (west to east).
Dance on a Volcano 40m HS
Start: below the small square-cut overhang at the bottom centre of the main slab.
Gain a low horizontal traverse line across a smooth grey slab and follow it delicately out above the sea (crossing the line of 'Squonk') to the edge of the main slab. Move up the arete to gain crack in the steep slab above and climb this to the top. Care is neede with loose debris when moving back to belay.
T. McQueen, A. Lyttle. 25th August 1983.
Squonk 35m VD
This route takes the first deep crack L of the square-cut overhang. At low tide this crack can be climbed via a mussel and barnacle infested direct start, at other times the travers of 'Dance on a Volcano' can be followed to reach the crack higher up.
Climb the crack and continue directly up to a short wall. Climb this to good holds to a ledge. Move to the R end of this ledge, step up, and follow flakes and cracks slanting slightly L to the top.
T. McQueen 25th August 1983.
Skome 30m HS
Makes a line between 'Squonk' and 'Nodding Dog', starting below the small square-cut overhang.
Scramble up and move L to the base of steep wall. Climb this on fragile pockets and move up the slab above. Finish steeply just L of a prominent skyline block on large, but brittle, holds.
T. McQueen, A. Lyttle 25th August 1983.
Nodding Dog 30m D.
Start as for 'Skome'.
Move easily up over the small overhang and up to the highest of R-ward trending ledges below a bulge. Climb this directly, or side-step it on the R to gain a flakey crack which leads straight up past a yellow patch of rock to the top.
T. McQueen, S. King. June 1982.
Indirect Route 50m M
This route follows a line of least resistance, rather like a "question mark" up the main slab, starting at an easy fault a few metres R of 'Skome' and finishing at the top L of the crag, just R of 'Dance on a Volcano'.
T. McQueen 28th August, 1983.
Geologists Hammer 30m S
Start: on the main face, about 4m L of the triangular recess capped by an overhang.
Climb easily and directly up to meet the crack running up from the L end of the overhang. Move up this, pull up and climb a shallow groove L of a corner to the top.
T. McQueen, S. King. June 1982.
Scare 35m HS
Start: in the triangular recess.
Follow the L side of the recess to join 'Geologists Hammer' at the L end of the overhang. Move up and traverse R across the base of the slab above the overhangto reach arete. Step up and swing onto arete from L using good pockets and flakes (exposed). Follow arete and crack to the top.
T. McQueen 24th August, 1983.