An Blascaod Mór / Great Blasket Island

A Tiglin group visited the island in June and twenty five new routes were put up at An Gob of which brief descriptions are given here.

Access; From the harbour a short walk due south will cross several old field boundaries before reaching a rounded spur running east down to Point an Ghoib. From this spur, which itself is defined a field boundary, a route should be found on a descending traverse south west to the top of The Slab. The descent to the long ledge below The Slab and Black Wall follows a series of large easy steps on the north eastern edge of The Slab. This ledge is just above the level of high water spring tides, but is not safe if heavy seas are running. In this case a higher traverse into the climbs can easily be made. To reach the base of climbs in Chimney Scoop an easy descent can be made from the south western end of the cliff or by climbing Slí Amach.

The rock is old red sandstone and requires care, there is a mention of a guide and diagrams been produced maybe someone knows where they are ?

Chimney Scoop

The Mutation 30m VS 4b
R Dean belayed by J Domoney 15/6/81
A difficult start and difficulty in placing gear make this an unusual climb.
Start; at the foot of a large deep chimney, The route climbs the outside of the chimney’s retaining left wall, gained by a step left from the belay and difficult moves up a steep black wall. A short move right then cracks to the top.

Sanity Clause 26m VS 4b
S. O'Riordan, J. Domoney 1/6/1982. (New Climbs 1982)
Climb the chimney immediately R of 'The Mutation'. The bottom half can be slippery.

An Port ?
R Dean 15/6/81
A short and elegant route up the curved arête 8 m right of the deep chiney. Short and unprotected.
Start; at the foot of the arête beneath the left crack of three fine parallel cracks. The line of the arête is followed past a small break on the left to large finishing jugs.

Sandman Slab 15m E1 (one aid nut)
D. O'Connell. E. O'Flynn 1982.(New Climbs 1982)
A direct line up the slab 1m L of 'An Port'. The crux is at mid-height, where an RP was used for aid.

Sandman E2 5b/c
C. Torrans, S. Reidy. June 1984. (New Climbs 1984)
Now goes free.

The Pass VS 4b/c
C. Torrans, S. Reidy, E. Gallagher. June 1984. (New Climbs 1984)
Climb the obvious layback crack L of the 'Sandman' slab.

An Rinceoir 15m V.Diff
P. Stronach 15/6/81
A good route with a fine line taking the biggest of three parallel cracks.
Start; just right of 'An Port' by about 2 m. Climb straight up the crack using laybacks and good jugs. Continue up short arête to top on good holds.

Boys Own VD/S
S. Reidy, E. Gallagher. June 1984. (New Climbs 1984)
Wall R of An Rinceoir, finishing up corner above.

Luidím Maclú ?
E. Gallagher, S. Reidy June 1984
As for 'Boys Own' then move R to corner.

An Clochán 15m VD
T Owens T Daly 15/6/81
A pleasant layback and an exposed finish.
Start; on large ledge 6 m from base of crag and in the very back of Chimney Scoop. Follow edge of obvious flake to left end of a ledge. Continue up corner above to a good stance.

Wee Nick ? 5a
C. Torrans, S. Reidy. June 1984.(New Climbs 1984)
The wall and overhang between 'An Clochán' and 'The Low Lintel'.

The Low Lintel 20m S
R Dean 15/6/81
A crux near the top.
Start; at the sea-level ledge 4 m right of a large pulpit of rock and beneath small rightward-facing corners.
Climb corners to the second quartz break then the slab above just left of a left-facing corner. Exit up ‘An Clochán’ or across the tops of ‘Deora na Maighdine’ and ‘Fliuchras’ .

Sailor Boy HVS 5a/b
C. Torrans, S. Reidy. June 1984
The slabs and overhangs between 'The Low Lintel' and 'Deora na Maighdine'.

Deora na Maighdine 20m S
P Stronach K Higgins 15/6/81
Start; at the sea level ledge 4 m right of ‘The Low Lintel’ and below an overhanging corner. Climb up to corner on small positive holds past a large band of quartz with large crystals to a ledge. Move slightly left and up a small crack and corner to top ledge. Good protection throughout.

Fliuchras 25m VS 4c
P Stronach K Higgins 15/6/81
A route worth doing – looks a bit improbable, but is all there. This route takes the line straight up the middle of the protruding slab on the right hand side of Chimney Scoop.
Start; from the sea-level ledge climb straight up the slab to a small overhang above the quartz vein. Climb the overhang and continue up the steeper slab above to bulge. Continue over bulge {crux} and up slab using small holds and crack. Move left on the ledge above and continue up crack to top. Protection good.

Ceann Dubh 20m HS
K Higgins P Stronach 15/6/81
Start; 3 m left of the right hand boundary of Chimney Scoop and beneath the protruding slab. The overhang above is split by a corner. Climb the slab and corner to the top.

Black Wall

Slí Amach 5m VD
R Dean 15/6/81
A good way of reaching Chimney Scoop from Black Wall.
Start; at the extreme left end of the sea ledge below Black Wall is a wide shallow chimney. Climb the back wall of the chimney. A short walk along the top of ‘Ceann Dubh’, ‘Fliuchras’, ‘Deora na Maighdine’ and ‘The Low Lintel’ allows a descent of the lower section of ‘An Clochán’.

An Capall Glas 20m HS
P O'Leary E Smith 15/6/81
An attractive line. Start; as for ‘Slí Amach’. Climb the corner that forms the left boundary of Black Wall where it meets a leaning buttress.

Bogna HS/VS
C. Torrans, S. McCauley June 1984 (New Climbs 1984)
The groove and wall just R of 'An Capall Glas'. (Difficulties can be avoided).

Swirls S
C. Torrans, M. Macpherson. June 1984 (New Climbs 1984)
The obvious line L of 'Faoi Dheire'.

Wee Nuke S
C. Torrans, M. Somers. June 1984 (New Climbs 1984)
Wall just L of ' Faoi Dheire'.

Hairy Dog S
C. Torrans, M. Somers. June 1984 (New Climbs 1984)
Fault line R of 'Wee Nuke'.

Faoi Dheire 40m S
T Daly P Stronach 17/6/81
A pleasant route making a line linking the two obvious recesses.
Start; outside the first recess and climb arête on the left hand side of corner until the second recess is reached. Climb the obvious corner above this to top. The top of this climb is a little loose, as is most of the top of Black Wall. Protection pretty good.

Delman S
C. Torrans, June 1984 (New Climbs 1984)
Fault line in between 'Faoi Dheire' and 'Tobar na Sidhe'

Tobar na Sidhe 40m S
P Stronach J Domoney 16/6/81
This route takes a line straight up from about 6 m left of ‘Scoilt Linda’ and about 3 m left of the grey-green slab on which ‘Ceathru’ runs.
Start; from the main sea-level ledge. Climb up to a small overhang in wall right of a quartz vein. Continue up two parallel s-shaped cracks to top. Protection fair.

Ceathru 40m S
C Torrans P Stronach 18/6/81
This route takes an obvious line straight up the grey-green slab on the right -hand side of the Black Wall and just left of ‘Scoilt Linda’.
Start; at the bottom of the Slab and climb it straight up it to top. Protection good.

The Slab

Scoilt Linda 35m VD
L McGee E Smith (alt leads) 14/6/81
A Classic. Good protection in the crack. Start; at the base of the crack dividing The Slab and the Black Wall. 1. 15m Climb the crack to a good stance on a pillar in the crack. 2. 20m Climb the crack above to the top.

Fiche Bliain ag Fás 35m E1 5b
R Dean P Stronach J Domoney 16/6/81
Small wires and good eyesight to arrange protection.
Start; below the zig-zag break. Climb this to a flake above and on the right, then delicately up the slab on small secure holds. (Good small wires.)

Peig 35m HVS 5a R Dean P Stronach 18/6/81
Start; 2 m right of 'Fiche Bliain ag Fás'. The climb continues parallel to 'Fiche Bliain ag Fás' passing 2 m left of a short overhung leftward facing corner at mid height, the line of 'An t-Oileánach'. to gain a weak break above a faint overhang. Up this to deep crack and the top.

An t-Oileánach 30m VS 4c
P Stronach K Higgins 14/6/81
A real gem of a climb. Well protected and producing a fine position. This route runs straight up the middle of the main slab breaking through the overhanging corner which is at mid height.
Start; directly below the overhanging corner. Climb a thin crack past the stepped ledge to the overhang. Climb this stepping right on the slab above. Continue up rightward-trending break above.

An Béal Bocht 30m E1 5b
C Torrans J Domoney 18/6/81
Scarce protection. The route is approximately 2 m left of the corner on ‘Slí na Firine’.
Start; up easy slabs to small overhang. Climb this by undercuts to small edge (5a). Climb straight right wards to pale patch of rock on thin holds (5b). Move up on good small finger holds to the top.

Slí na Firine 30m S
K Higgins P Stronach 13/6/81
Varied with slab climbing and a corner requiring small wires for protection.
Start; just left of the first corner right of the zig-zag break followed by ‘Fiche Bliain ag Fás’. The climb can easily be split into 2 pitches, the top one harder and requiring small wires for protection.

Bóthar an Aimhleasa 25m S
J O'Dwyer T Daly 13/6/81
The route is easily identified from the diagram and may be split into 2 pitches at the half way ledge. The top pitch is harder requiring small wires for protection.

Neamhurchoideas 15m VD
E Smyth P Cashin 13/6/81
A good climb breaking easily through an overhang near the top after pleasant slab and crack climbing.

An Céad Faoistin 15m S
R Dean 16/6/81
A short slab finished by a hard move to a good handhold. Poor protection.

Mná 15m D
P Maher P Oman 14/6/81

Fir 15m D
V Hynes A Weber 14/6/81
Both routes provide nice climbing up twin corners at the extreme right hand side of The Slab. They may be started at sea level or at mid-height depending on the sea and the state of the tide.

Ag Snámh d'Éan 70m S
R Dean 18/6/81
A good traverse best started from the right. This leaves the crux of each pitch to the last. Traverse under the overhang of ‘Neamhurchoideas’ along the stepped ledge of ‘An t-Oileánach’ and across a slab (crux) onto the belay of ‘Scoilt Linda’. From here traverse past two recesses on the Black Wall to finish by a quartz break across the leaning break of ‘An Capall Glas’.