Oughtdarra
Introduction
The townlands of Oughtdarra, Crumlin and Ballynahown make a wild and beautiful climbing ground, the scenery and atmosphere are a real treat to the senses after a long car or bus journey. Terrain wise the areas are riven with limestone cliffs, canyons, vegetated thickets and limestone pavements, bearing in mind that the area is used for pasture and is home to wild goats ticks are an ever present concern. The best approach to the climbing areas is to walk inland (Eastwards) from the car park/lay by at Ailladie over limestone pavements and rock steps, a 15 minute walk (keeping a dry stone wall on you left) should bring you to the Northern Buttress. From here it is best to walk South along the escarpment to reach the other areas. For Leacht na nAmadan there is roadside parking space 2km further on/North from the Ailladie car park/lay by, the spaces are just before and 100m after a farm gate on the East/Right hand side of the road. Other possibilities may look tantalisingly close on a map but thick deep vegetation and canyons will make progress slow and tiring. It has taken some parties up to 1.5 hours to reach the Lysacht’s Cave area in this way!
View of Northern Buttress from Central Area.
Gale Buttress
About 150m Left/North of Northern Buttress there is a small steep outcrop above a hollow bowl type feature in the ground below.
WEATHER GIRLS VD
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 12th June 2022.
Climbs the corner on the left of the buttress.
ATLANTIC FRONT HS
Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 12th June 2022.
Climb the cracks 2m right of WG making a brief excursion over to the sloping ledge on the left to gain the final finish crack.
ISOBAR S
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 12th June 2022.
There is an arrow head feature (inverted v) on the front wall of the buttress, this climb takes a rightwards traverse of the crag from it's base. Climb the left hand ramp to it's top, move down and rightwards to avoid a dubious block on the right, climb up to the grassy ledge and move rightwards to it's end, take a step up and finish rightwards over broken ground.
Northern Buttress
This wall faces south and runs west to east, with routes going left to right.
SPICY 10m HVS 5a
Stephen McGowan, John Howard, March 2009.
Climb the arête and crack 3m left of Teflon Left Hand.
TEFLON LEFT HAND 10m VS 4c
Cliff Baxter, July 2005.
Climb crack 2m left of Teflon Crack
TEFLON CRACK 10m S
Cliff Baxter, July 2005.
Climb offwidth using wide bridging, Hard at the start.
THE SOUND OF ONE LEG BRIDGING 9m HS
Dermot O'Dwyer, Petra Tolarová, 15/04/2017.
Climb the wide crack 1m right of TEFLON CRACK and which is behind the leaning pillar to the ledge. Finish rightwards over sloping ledges to the top.
Direct Start; THE SLAB BRIDGE START HS
Ingolf Kühn, Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 15th April 2022.
Where the dry stone wall meets the leaning pillar climb the slab directly to the ledge and finish as for THE SOUND OF ONE LEG BRIDGING.
A BECKONING CRACK 9m S
Petra Tolarová, Dermot O'Dwyer, 15/04/2017.
Start just right of blocks resting against arête where dry stone wall meets the buttress. Climb to ledge at 3m, then up wide crack in left-hand wall to awkwardly surmount sloping ledge (crux) climb up short wall and blocky ridge to finish.
FLOWER POWER WALL S
Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, Conor Warner, 15th April 2022.
Start as for BECKONING CRACK to the ledge. Finish up the cracked wall and corner in front of you.
The next few routes take the crack lines on the short buttress to the left of the descent ramp.
WHERE IS THE GENTIAN S
Ingolf Kühn (solo), 15th April 2022.
Climb the wall 1m left of GRACEFUL ELEPHANT to a small ledge, difficulty decreases thereafter.
GRACEFUL ELEPHANT 8m HS 4b
K.Sloan, E.Prendergast. Spring 2013.
Climb is located behind a pillar. Climb the wall to a thin crack at half height.
OGONNELLOE BURGER 8m VD
Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin 17/09/2017.
Located behind the pillar. Climb the crack from bottom to top using the pillar to bridge. Not climbed yet without using the pillar.
PETIT CAFÉ 6m VD
Petra Tolarová, Dermot O'Dwyer 15/04/2017.
Climb is on the wall facing into the descent gully, climb crack with small ledges at the start
Right of the descent gully there are two corners.
WILL IT GO ? 14m S
K.Sloan, L.Calnan, Spring 2013.
Start 2m left of Hulalooper climb up a well protected left facing corner (crux) stepping left to ledge, move left up a broken corner to finish.
Direct finish HS B Watts, C Rice, 6/9/2015.
Climb directly up fist sized crack.
HULALOOPER * 14m S 4a Marcin Ostasz, Peter Owens, May 2007, Follow the pleasant cracked ramp 3m left of Arnhem.
Moving along brings you to the cleared area of rock. The next routes take right trending ramps and steep walls.
ARNHEM ** 16m VS 4c
Paul Daly, July 2005.
5m right of the descent ramp, climb superb flakey crack to a ramp
leading rightwards at two third height. Ascend ramp and groove to finish.
Direct Start HVS 5b Peter Owens, Marcin Ostasz, May 2007. 2m left of Ballynalacken, a short groove leads to a ramp below a nice looking finger crack. Climb this and pull up onto the upper ramp of Arnhem. Finish as for that route.
BALLYNALACKEN * 20m VS 4c
Peter Owens, Marcin Ostasz, May 2007.
Follow the ramp system, passing a section of ivy to a high corner and stance. From here climb directly to the top.
SCATTERY LEDGE * 18m HS 4c
Dermot Shiels, Brian McCarthy, August 2011.
This is a nice route similar to but easier then Ballynalacken. Climb corners and ramps trending right to a big ledge. Bridge up the steep corner to the top.
I WANNA BE ADORED 18m E1 5b
Stuart Kennedy, Gerry Galligan, 11/5/2019.
Same start as Free Radical, up a short right-trending, grassy ramp. Halfway along break left up yellow lichenous wall - the broken groove and spike. Continue to the vegetated ledge. Move up corner overhang to finish.
FREE RADICAL 20m VS 4c
Gerry Galligan, Niamh McGreen, 16/4/2017.
Takes the high steep corner 5m right of Scattery Ledge. Climb the pock-marked slab to gain a grassy ledge. Negotiate your way through the right-trending ramp of vegetation to gain the base of the clean corner crack. Move steeply up the crack to finish.
ROCKET MAN 16m HS 4b
Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 15/9/2017.
8m right of free radical (and the jungle) there is a large protruding flake at one third height, follow the right ward trending line of cracks and ledges past good holds on the flake/rocket, climb directly upwards to a ledge and finish left of a small overhang at head height.
Variation: THE ARMSTRONG FINISH HS Conor Warner, Ingolf Kühn, Barry Watts, 15th April 2022. At the ledge finish up the cracked wall right of the small overhang at head height.
ASTRONOMY DOMINE * 15m VS 4c
Peter Wood, Gerry Galligan, October 2011.
Start in a niche, 3m to the left of Emily's Route. Climb the right sloping crack above, and follow the crack above as it trends more vertically upwards. Finish directly above the start of Emily's route.
EMILY'S ROUTE 16m HS 4b
Emma Glanville, July 2005.
On the right side of the buttress to the right of a heavily ivy clad area, there is a protruding wall which is scooped in the centre. Climb this scoop and trend rightwards to finish.
BALLYGOBACKWARDS 16m HS 4b
Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 15/9/2017.
Takes the wall and cracks right of Emily’s Routes. Start just left of the gully and climb diagonally leftwards to a prickly ledge,
move right up a shallow corner to the top
The gully to the right has been climbed by C Peppard and B Watts on 15/9/2017 at S, the climbing on it is a bit dull and it still has some big dubious blocks in it, Move on!
There is a cleaned line of cracks and flakes on the clean wall left of Meridian but mid way up they feel loose and sound hollow.
MERIDIAN ** E3 5c
Dermot Shiels, Brian McCarthy, August 2011 (On Sight).
The route takes the striking crack line between the grassy descent gully and Emily’s Route. Use good hand holds and a bomber wire to protect the mantleshelf onto the ledge at the base of the thin layback crack. Good cams protect the base of the crack and micro wires protect the rest. Use undercuts to start climbing the crack and footholds on the left wall. Bridge and layback up the thin crack. Exit right. Great route
THE RISING 20m HS 4b
Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Niamh McGreen, 16/4/2017.
Traces a line on the right edge of the Meridian wall. Start 5m right of Meridian below a left-facing, right-trending, corner-crack. Climb up to a grassy ledge. Move up the slab on your left by the thin crack for 4m. Traverse right to a ledge and climb the blocky face above via cracks and small ledges.
100m further East and across the grassy gully the escarpment faces West.
Builders Buttress
This wall faces West and runs North to South, with routes going left to right or Southwards.
SITE PASS 10m VS 4b/4c
Radu Toma, Barry Watts, 26th September 2010.
Start up a steep thin crack, after about 5m (before the going gets grassy) traverse 1m right and climb the cracked wall to the top
SKIP FOR HIRE 10m HS 4b
Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 16/9/2017.
Takes the steep crack line 2m right of Site Pass.
RUBBLE ROULETTE 10m HS 4b
Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 16/9/2017.
Takes the steep crack line 2m right of Skip for Hire.
GROUNDWORKS 10m S
Barry Watts, Radu Toma, 26th September 2010.
About 5m right and downhill from SITE PASS there is an obvious interesting groove system, climb the left hand side and veer right at the small tree root below the top.
CONSTRUCTION SITE 10m VS 4c/5a
Radu Toma, Barry Watts, 26th September 2010.
Start 2m right of GROUNDWORKS, Follow the obvious thin crack line which features a strenuous steep start.
BUCKAROO 10m HS 4c
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 16th August 2015.
Just right of Construction Site there is a small overhang at 2m height. Start at the right hand side of this overhang which is about 3m further right of the last route, pull up strenuously onto a narrow ledge. Continue more easily up the cracked slab, for added interest veer left along the edge to finish.
5m further Right/South there is Goat Buttress.
Goat Buttress
TRIBAL GOATS 10m HS 4a
Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 20th July 2014.
10m right of Construction Site and to the right of the hanging slab and overhangs there are two slim cracks side by side. Start at the left-hand crack, to under the overlap and traverse right to the corner continuing up the corner to the top.
BROKEBANK MOUNTAIN 10m HS 4a
Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 20th July 2014.
10m right of Construction Site and to the right of the hanging slab and overhangs there are two slim cracks side by side, follow the right-hand crack line directly to the top.
YOU'RE KIDDING ME ? 10m VD
Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 31/8/2024.
3m right of Brokebank Mountain climb the cracked wall between the loose chute and ACTING THE GOAT to the ledge, finish directly up the crack.
ACTING THE GOAT 10m D
Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 20th July 2014.
4m right of Brokebank Mountain climb the cracked wall to a ledge and scramble leftwards along this to finish.
About 20m further Right/South there is Goat Slab.
Goat Slab
GOATS DON'T SHAVE (1) D
Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 31/8/2024.
Climb the thin crack line to the terrace, finish up a crack.
GOATS FOR THE HARD ROAD (2) D
Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 31/8/2024.
Climb the slab to the terrace and finish up a crack.
WALK OF SHAME (3) D
Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 5/9/2024.
Climb the crack to the terrace, finish up the cracked wall.
DIRTY STOP OUT (4) D
Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 5/9/2024.
Climb the slab to the terrace and finish up a crack.
About 10m further Right/South there is Canyon Buttress.
Canyon Buttress
ROCKERY 11m VD
Mark Standbridge, 18th August 2013.
In the central part of the wall there are three parallel crack lines. This takes the left-hand one. Climb the twin cracks direct.
OUT ON THE WESTERN PLAIN 12m HS 4b
Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 5/6/2016.
Start just below and right of the flake-sided hanging chimney. Avoid the loose, hanging flake and climb the cracked and featured wall on the right to the top.
PRE OP 12m HS 4a
Rob Mullett, Pat Lombard, 6th July 2014.
2m left of blade runner start at the twin cracks following the main crack line up and then trend left towards the capstone. Take care with loose rocks.
BLADE RUNNER 12m S 4a
Mark Standbridge, Rob Mullett, 18th August 2013.
This route takes the crack and left hand side of the sharp-angled arête directly above. Take care with the loose ‘paving slab’ about half way up the route.
GRAND CANYON * 12m VD
Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 20th July 2014.
Right of the Blade Runner arete there is another obvious arête, Climb the clean cracked wall 1m left of this arête directly to the top.
BONANZA 12m VD
Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 20th July 2014.
A companion piece for Grand Canyon. Starts as for Grand Canyon but takes the next right-hand corner. Climb this directly to the top.
Walking from here for 300m Right/South, the escarpment descreases and increases in height at a steep unclimbed wall, further on there are lines of weakness.
Central Area
THERE'S NOTHING LEFT 16m VS 4c
Malcolm O'Beirn, Peter Owens, May 2007.
Start 3m left of NUTSTOPPER in an alcove. Climb up to the apex of the alcove and mount the bulge. From here go straight up. Starts good but be careful with some loose rock higher up.
THERE'S NOTHING RIGHT 17m S 4a
Rob Mullett, Niamh McGreen, 29th Sept 2012.
Start 3m left of NUTSTOPPER in an alcove at the same point as THERE'S NOTHING LEFT. Climb up to the alcove until the apex but deviate diagonally right along the obvious crack line and then follow this straight up to the finish.
NUTSTOPPER 16m HS 4b
Brian Callaghan, Sadhbh Baxter, 11th July 1999.
Crack 2m left of "Sweep" chimney. Up crack to ledge at 2m. Left around slightly overhanging bulge. Up broken crack to finish.
SWEEP 9m S 4b
Brian Callaghan, Sadhbh Baxter, 11th July 1999.
Chimney 8m left of the alcove. Up back of chimney, onto arête at top. Easy finish
ORLA's CROSS 10m VS
Malcolm O'Beirn, Peter Owens, May 2007.
Next obvious crackline 4m right of Sweep. Tougher than it looks. Sustained climbing, till reaching the grassy ledge, half way.
TWO WATER MELONS * 10m VS 4c
Cliff Baxter, Sadbh Baxter, July 2005.
Climb the crack 2m left of Bob Marley. Bold start, with good protection, so use it.
BOB MARLEY 10m HVS 5b
Paul Daly, July 2005.
A stern test in hand jamming which climbs the first crack on the left wall of the alcove
HANDS OFF 16m HS 4c
Brian Callaghan, Sadhbh Baxter, 11th July 1999.
Large alcove 10m north-left of Daisy Days. Climb between the two right trending cracks on the back wall. Step right at 3/4 height ledge to finish up corner. Beware of loose rock.
Variation: finish directly up face from 3/4 height ledge. (SB, toprope)
ONE FOR THE ROAD 16m HS 4b
Niamh McGreen, Rob Mullett, 29th Sept 2012.
Start 1m right of Hands Off below a thin crack curving to the left. Climb this with the help of a good flake on the left. Step slightly left to finish up the short wall.
THEX MHEX HS
Dermot O'Dwyer, Stefan Reiman, Petra Tolarová, 17/04/2017.
Climb obvious crack on left hand side. Finish directly up left-hand side of face above large ledge. Only a little bit spicy.
REX HEX LIZ * 15m HS 4b
Marty McCarthy, Valerie Hayes, 5th August 2012.
Start at small grass ramp, 5m left of Daisy Days, directly to and through the vertical crack. Balance, gain large ledge. Finish up corner on right (as for Daisy Days).
Variation: Finish directly up face left of corner.
DAISY DAYS 16m D
Brian Callaghan, Sadhbh Baxter, 11th July 1999.
At southern end of crag, 2m left of where field wall meets crag. Follow obvious left-trending crack onto large ledge at 3/4 height. Up back corner to finish.
The next crag is about 300m Roght/South of Daisy Days you pass over a dry stone wall with a cone shaped hill on your right.
An Fear Bréige
This area faces South and is West of Lysacht’s Cave, it is marked by a short buttress with four climbs on the left, there is a short steep gully containing a dry stone wall bordering it on the right. Moving back Roght/East along the escarpment for 200m there is a free standing pillar An Fear Bréige which is beneath a large overhang. There was once a ringfort called Doonannmore perched on top of the cliff.
Routes are listed from left to right West to East.
RAM RAID 10m S
Barry Watts, Paul McCabe, Gerry Galligan, 17/9/2016.
This climb takes a series of steep ledges left of the square overhang. Start at the wide crack and climb steeply to gain the ledge/jammed boulder, finish directly up the thin crack. Avoid the easier lines on the left.
THICKET TO RIDE 10m E1 5c
Peter Owens, Vera Quinlan, August 2006.
The left hand crack
IS THAT IT ? 10m E1 5c
Peter Owens, Vera Quinlan, August 2006.
The right hand crack
COUNTERPOINT 10m E2 6a
Paul Daly, Ronan Keane, 6 October 2012 (practiced on top rope).
Move leftwards to gain the base of the thin Z shaped crack. Move up and leftwards to gain sloping ledge (crux) and thence to top.
DÚN NA SIÓGA 8m S
Paul McCabe, Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 17/9/2016.
Climb the crack 1m right of the dry stone wall in the gully.
FLIGHT RISK 8m S
Barry Watts, Paul McCabe, 17/9/2016.
Climb the thin crack 6m right of DÚN NA SIÓGA, start off a high grassy ledge.
BALLAI NA DOONAUNMORE HS 4b
Gerry Galligan, Paul McCabe, 17/9/2016.
Bridge up between the 6m detached pillar and the right wall, gain the ledge on the right
and finish up the cracked wall above.
First ascent of LONE STAR
LONE STAR ** VS 4c
Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 5/6/2016.
20m right of Thicket to Ride there is a 6m detached pillar leaning against the rock face. This fine route takes the clean, twin to single, crack line, 5m right of this pillar.
PADDYWHACKERY 12m S
Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 26/9/2015.
20m left of CHRISTY TURLINGTON and 6m right of a wall there is an overhanging nose of rock.
Start to the left of the nose, climb as far as the overhanging corner,
Traverse left for 3m and finish up the flake crack.
OBAIR NA SIÓGA 10m HS
Paul McCabe, Gerry Galligan, 17/9/2016.
Start as for Paddy Whackery and continue up the overhanging corner.
MATCHMAKER 10m S
Barry Watts, Paul McCabe, Gerry Galligan, 17/9/2016.
Climb the wall and right facing corner 3m right of Paddywhackery and the nose of rock. Steep start.
80's RACK HS
David Atkinson, Barry Watts, 6th July 2024.
15m right of MATCHMAKER there is a left facing groove/shallow corner, Climb to the ledge, place protection in the wide crack and climb steeply up the wall 1m to the right.
In the next alcove there is
BANNER JOY VD
Barry Watts, Cohen Ambrose, Paul Delahunt, 6th July 2024.
Climb the groove/shallow corner on the left.
DAL gCAIS S
Barry Watts, Paul Delahunt, 6th July 2024.
Climb the groove/shallow corner on the right.
CHRISTY TURLINGTON 10m VS 4c
J. Murphy, P. Aylmer-Hall, 3/9/1993.
The crack in the wide corner 30m or 40m left of Baby Lotion.
BABY LOTION 13m HVS 5a
N. Thompson, P. Aylmer-Hall, 3/9/1993.
Start below the small overhang on the south-facing edge of the pillar (An Fear Breige). Move up and right to the crack to the right of the overhang. Climb this to the top of the pillar and from here it is possible to reach small holds on the large overhanging buttress next to the pillar. Pull up on these and finish up more easily.
200m Right/East of An Fear Breige there is.
Lysacht's Cave area
The highest and oldest developed cliff at Oughtdarra is also the most Southerly, the approach is past An Fear Breige, over a downed meral gate through a small hazel wood. The wood is hard going at times so best to keep paralell to the cliff and when you see large boulders head right/East to a cattlle path,. There was once a ringfort called Doonannbeg perched on top of the cliff.
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TWEAKIN 20m E3 6a
D. O Sullivan, 4/6/1988.
This route climbs the wall and leftward-trending groove left of Plumbline. Start below a short corner 3m left of Plumbline. Climb the corner to a peg. Tweak out left on tinies and then up to reach a ramp. Finish up the groove above.
PLUMBLINE * 20m E1 5b
T. Ryan, K. Higgs, 24/4/1977.
Takes the groove in the middle of the crag with a grassy groove to start. Gain the ledge at 3m and move up to another ledge on the left. Continue up the groove (strenuous) and over the bulge to the ledge. Step right and pull up onto grass.
Direct Finish HVS 5a
N. Diamond, Spring 1987.
From the highest ledge climb directly up the corner to the top instead of stepping right.
WEEVIL 23m HVS 5a
K. Higgs, D. Somers, 30/4/1977.
This route takes the diagonal line 2m right of the central groove. Gain the ledge. Move around the bulge to a small ledge below the overhang then up and across right to the arête. Step down to footholds below a niche. Climb up into the niche to gain a horizontal break. Hand traverse right and pull up onto the ledge (strenuous). Up the corner to the top.
Direct start E1 5c
I. Ryan, 1984.
Climb the steep wall on flaky holds to join Weevil at the end of the traverse below the corner.
ARTFUL DODGER 21m HVS 5a
K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 24/4/1977.
There is a clean overhanging corner about 13m right of Weevil. This route takes the crack and wall 2m left of the corner behind two trees. Climb the wall and crack to a small ledge at 2m. Continue up on pockets (crux) past a holly bush. Painful. Continue rightwards to the top and a block belay.
WAVY GRAVY 21m E4 6a
D. O Sullivan, 4/6/1988.
Strenuous climbing up the obvious corner between Artful Dodger and Busker. Climb the overhanging corner for 10m to a sharp handrail on the left wall. Campus to the next edge and mantle to better holds. Finish up the crack above.
BUSKER 21m VS 4c
K. Higgs, D. Somers, 30/7/1977.
This climb follows the right edge of the wall 3m right of the corner. Climb up to the ledge on the left. Continue up to the base of a crack (awkward). Climb the crack to the base of the small corner. Climb the corner and steep wall above on good holds to the top.
WALKING THE DOG 21m S 4a
K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 24/7/1977.
There is a short corner right of Busker. Layback up the crack to a ledge on the left at 10m. Climb the wall to a ledge and bush. Step left and finish up the wall to top.
About 50m left of Lysacht's Cave there is a small buttress, just past a bushy thicket. Just left of an ivy-clad wall there is a cave-like tunnel at ground level. The next route takes the corner immediately right of the cave.
CAVE CANEM 13m S 4b
D. Somers, K. Higgs, 30/4/1977.
Climb up to a stance below the corner until it is possible to pull out left onto the face. Up this to the top.
Leacht na nAmadan
This area is North of Leaba na hAon Bho and further up the same escarpment. This cliff is the closest to the road as the coast road curves inland. There is roadside parking spaces 2km further on/North from the Ailladie car park/lay by, the spaces are just before and 100m after a farm gate on the East/Right hand side of the road. Walk through the gate and walk to the brow of the hill and you will spot the escarpment and shortly after you will find a sheltered green valley running parallel and North/South beneath the cliffs.
Amid a jumble of low cliffs and vertical clefts on the far left of the line of cliffs two smooth steep walls come together to make a left facing corner.
Crumlin Wall
JUST ANOTHER TICK 8m Mild Severe
S. Byrne, A. Mockler, 9th July 2022.
Climb the middle of the lower slab (without the use of the left detached block) to the horizontal crack and small vertical crack (good gear). Step up and left to a small hold and avail of the juggy arete. Continue directly to the top via the arete.
BEST MAN'S BOOGIE 8m Diff
A. Mockler, S. Byrne, 9th July 2022.
Climb the broken large vertical crack directly to the top. Don't stray into the corner. Be aware there is a loose block on the left during topout.
LEMON SQUEEZY 8m Mod
S. Byrne, A. Mockler, 9th July 2022.
For those looking for a ramble, climb the obvious corner.
EASY PEASY D
Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg, 18th October 2020.
Climb the slabby cracked wall right of the arete
AN GEATA BAN D
Conor Warner (solo), 18th October 2020.
Climb the crack 3m left of the corner
LITTLE RED CORVETTE HS
Barry Watts, David Brosnan, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O Toole, 1st May 2021.
Climb the slabby wall left of HUSAVIK finishing up the crack in the overhang.
HUSAVIK D
Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 18th October 2020.
Climb the corner.
ANCHORMAN HS
Audrey O Toole, David Brosnan, Barry Watts,1st May 2021.
Climb the wall and thin crackline 1.5m right of HUSAVIK to the top.
CRUMLIN ROAD HS 4b
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 18th October 2020.
Start 3m right of the corner and just left of a broken loose groove, climb the thin left ward trending crack to a small ledge, trend left to the top.
Swampstone Wall
A low but steep wall of rock to the right of Crumlin Wall is the next interesting rock feature.
SWAMP STONE CRACK S
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, Brandon O'Toole, 18th October 2020.
Climb the leftmost crack on the steep cracked wall, belay in the rift behind the buttress, exit to the right.
Shadow and Bone Wall
This wall to the right of Swampstone Wall has two tiers of rock and is split by a grassy mid way ledge, descent is by walking leftwards to descend past Crumlin Wall.
It is possible to only climb the lower tier and to descend by carefully traversing the grassy ledge leftwards to descend past Crumlin Wall.
MIDNIGHT GROOVER 20m VD
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 6th June 2021.
Climb the wide crack/corner left of the pillar past several ledges to the mid way ledge, move right and follow a wide crack to the top.
JOHNNY JUMP UP * 20m VS 4c
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 18th October 2020.
Climb the cracked pillar to the grassy ledge. Move right a little and climb the smooth upper wall (crux) using two thin vertical cracks and ignoring easier alternatives.
EMERALD * 20m HS
Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 18th October 2020.
Climb the next pillar on it's left hand side (VD), climb the steep upper wall 1m right of the arete.
CHASING CARS 20m VD
Barry Watts, Tom Van Rensburg, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 17th October 2020.
Climb the crack 5m right of EMERALD to the grass ledge, move right and finish up the left facing groove on the second level.
BIGOTS IN BUDAPEST 20m VD
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 13th June 2021.
Climb the crack right of CHASING CARS, easy to start and difficulty increasing with height.
Finish at the mid way ledge or up the final groove of CHASING CARS.
99 20m HS 4b
Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 6th June 2021.
So called because it ''had'' a flake ! Climb the shallow left facing corner 4m right of CHASING CARS to the halfway ledge. Climb the face 2m right of the off width crack and finish diagonally leftwards crossing the off width crack.
MAYA'S CHIMNEY 20m D
Audrey O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Tom Van Rensburg, 18th October 2020,
Climb the chimney 10m right of Chasing Cars.
CITY OF ASHES 20m HS 4b
Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, 5th June 2021.
Right of MAYA'S CHIMNEY there is an alcove, climb the left hand crack to the half way ledge, finish up a crack line just right of a free standing flake on the left.
CITY OF BONES 20m HS 4b
Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 5th June 2021.
Take the crack and juggy wall just right of CITY OF ASHES to the halfway ledge, similarly finish up the crack line right of CITY OF ASHES.
SHADOW HUNTERS 20m S
Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 1st May 2021.
Climb the right hand corner of the alcove to the grassy ledge. Traverse left a little passing a large embedded boulder and continue up a left facing chimney/cleft to a ledge. Finish up the next tier of rock to belay after a low dry stone wall.
CITY OF GLASS 20m HS 4b
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 26th March 2022.
Climb the arete 1m right of SHADOW HUNTERS to the wide grassy ledge. Continue up the wide crack to a narrower ledge, climb up and over a 3m step and take a belay past a low dry stone wall, grade is lowered to S if only the lower arete is climbed to the grassy ledge.
GRISHA 20m S
Barry Watts, David Brosnan, 12th June 2021.
10m right of SHADOW HUNTERS there is a niche 3m above the ground, climb the wall right of this to the grassy mid way ledge, continue up a left facing corner on the left and finish over a further left facing corner (3m), take a belay past a low dry stone wall
Brandon’s Block
Further Right/South a large cracked block protrudes from the escarpment after walking up the hill from the parking area mentioned above.
DON’T CALL ME CUPCAKE 8m VS 4c
Barry Watts, Audrey O’Toole, Brandon O’Toole, 22/7/2019.
Climb the narrow crack and smooth steep slab at the left end of BB.
SETTLERS OF CATAN 10m HS 4b
Barry Watts (unseconded), 10/7/2020.
Climb into V shaped niche as for Violent Love, climb the left trending crack to an overlap and traverse left to finish more easily up dont call me.
VIOLENT LOVE 8m VS 4c
Audrey O’Toole, Barry Watts, 22/7/2019.
Climb into the V shaped niche 4m right of Don’t call me…., take the rightwards trending crack/groove to the top. A hand crack on the left hand head wall will come in handy higher up.
LET'S GO CRACKERS 2024 10m VS 4c
Cormac Flynn, Megan Flynn, 25/6/2024.
Climb the fist crack, merging with the finish of Violent Love.
ROIGHT SAYS FIACHRA 8m D
Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 13th June 2021.
Start just right of the wide central crack and follow a slabby line around the right of the block and up leftwards to the top.
WILDSTYLE 12m HS 4b
Barry Watts, Audrey O’Toole, Brandon O’Toole, 22/7/2019.
Climb the overhanging corner above BB by clever use of the slab and wall on the right.
There are three cleaned closed projects between WILDSTYLE and JAVELIN
JAVELIN * 16m VS 4c
Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 26th March 2022.
Nice varied wall climbing. Start 20m right of RSF and below a left facing corner at the top of the cliff.
Climb a steep cleaned wall for 3m to a wide grassy ledge. Climb for 7m past cleaned cracks and a thread to reach a higher ledge, finish up the 6m corner.
CATTLE CRUSH 16m HS 4b
Barry Watts, Conor Warner (alt leads), 6th June 2021.
A well protected fun outing.
1 8m VD 100m right of Brandon's Block there is a funnel/gully, climb the right hand side to the grassy ledge.
2 8m HS Walk 15m left on the grass ledge and climb a vertical thin crack line to a ledge, either finish up the cracked slab at HS or finish up the easy chute/gully in the centre, this later finish reduces the overall grade to S..
MOHER MIST VS 5a
Barry Watts, Conor Warner (ground up with rests), 13th June 2021.
10m right of CATTLE CRUSH the mid way ledge decreases in size to 0.5m wide and the escarpment becomes more vertical and continuous. Climb the first faint crack line to the top.
300m South or Right of Brandon’s Block the following routes start off the wide grassy mid way ledge and ignore the broken lower cliff.
Beagle Walls
IRPIN HS
Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 5th March 2022.
Start just left of a pillar and climb to the ledge, climb cracked wall 1m to the right.
CHERNIHIV HS
Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 5th March 2022.
Start just right of a pillar and climb to the ledge, climb crack 2m to the right.
SUMY HS
Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 5th March 2022.
Climb crack 3m tight of CHERNIHIV to the ledge, finish up the wall and crack above.
KHARKIV HS
Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 5th March 2022.
Climb the crack left of NICK OF TIME to the ledge, finish up the thin crack and wall just left of NOT.
NICK OF TIME HS
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3rd October 2020.
Climb a thin vertical crack to a grassy terrace, finish up a thin crack 3m to the left. Direct finishes are easier but less interesting.
KHERSON HS
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 6th March 2022.
Take the leftward sloping crack just right of NICK OF TIME to the ledge. Climb the groove to the top.
15m to the South/Right there are..
CAPTAIN CODY S
Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 11th October 2020.
The left hand crack on the buttress.
CLONE WARS S
Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 11th October 2020.
The right hand crack on the buttress
THE JEDI S
Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 11th October 2020.
Delicate climbing up a wall brings you to a ledge and alcove, climb the pillar on the right using the wide crack.
30m to the South/Right there are..
HOUNDS OF THE BASKETCASES 11m HVS 5a & A1
Colm Peppard (unseconded), 28th October 2018.
Half way along the 2nd tier there is an obvious corner with a distinct rounded overhang immediately to its left. Climb up the obvious crack running up the left side of the rounded overhang with some strenuous moves. Well protected (& tested - as gear was liberally hung on).
SNOWY'S ESCAPADE 11m VS 4b
Gerry Galligan, Tintin Ageby, 6th May 2019.
Takes the crack 1m right of the corner.
TINTIN'S BIG ADVENTURE 11m S
Gerry Galligan, Tintin Ageby, 6th May 2019.
Takes the right-trending crack 1m left of Banish Misfortune (2m right of the corner). Short and sweet.
BANISH MISFORTUNE * 11m HS 4b
Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 28th October 2018.
Climb the crack and corner groove 3m right of the corner
SHEEPDOGS’S EXERCISE 11m VS/HVS 4c
Ingolf Kühn, Barry Watts, 18th April 2019.
A harder companion piece to BANISH MISFORTUNE, climb the sustained groove 2m right of BANISH MISFORTUNE with holds and protection improving towards the top.
BONZI 12m D
Conor Warner, Barry Watts, David Brosnan, 24th April 2022.
Climb the groove left of BONZO to the grassy ledge, climb the crack directly beside and above the left facing corner to the top.
BONZO 12m VD
Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 28th October 2018.
6m right of the corner. Climb the left edge of the slab to a blank wall, traverse left to a grassy ledge and continue up the left facing corner to another grassy ledge, finish up the cracked slab.
DOBERMANS IDENTITY CRISIS 12m HS 4b
Ingolf Kühn, Barry Watts, 18th April 2019.
Climb the easy groove right of BONZO, easy and loose to start delicate to finish.
STRAY DOGS * 12m HVS 5a
Stuart Kennedy, Gerry Galligan, 11/5/2019.
Take the only crack, 2-3m left of the pillar block. Move up the crack to attain the horizontal break. Climb the vertical flake-crack to the niche. Finish above. Satisfying.
First ascent of FASTER THAN THE HOUND
FASTER THAN THE HOUND * 12m HS
Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 28th October 2018.
Take the left hand line past a bulge to the ledge and finish up the wall.
Variation: Arete Finish S
Gerry Galligan, Stuart Kennedy, 11/5/2019.
From the ledge, step left to finish up the arete.
WHERE BEAGLES DARE * 12m HS 4b
Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 28th October 2018.
Climb the right hand crack line past the ledge to the top.
A DREAM OF EASTER BUNNIES * 12m HS 4b
Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, Simon Kühn, Tristan Kühn,18th April 2019.
Thin crack line 3m right of WHERE BEAGLES DARE.
WOLLOX TO WINTERTIME 12m VS 4c
Colm Peppard, Barry Watts, 28th October 2018.
3m in from the right hand end of the 2nd tier {12m high face**} there is a twin crack close together trending up and leftwards to a slight bowl like indentation in the first clean face of 4the upper wall. Climb up the left side crack with a delicate move near the top. Good protection where needed.
FLUCHT VOR DEM REIFENBEISSER 11m VS 4c
Ingolf Kühn, Simon Kühn, 18th April 2019.
Climb the twin cracks 3m right of WOLLOX TO WINTERTIME.
MARIUPOL 11m VD
Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 6th March 2022.
Climb the corner formed by the left side of the big block and finish directly up the wall above.
180 11m VD
Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 3rd October 2020.
Right of FLUCHT VOR DEM REIFENBEISSER there is a big block at half height, climb the groove/gully to the right of this past several ledges, at the final ledge finish up the steep clean wall on the left.
KYIV 10m HS
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 6th March 2022.
Climb the cracked rib between 180 and DOGS LIFE.
DOGS LIFE 10m S
Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, 18th April 2019.
Take the cleaned left hand crack to the top
PIT BULLS DAY OUT 10m HS
Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, 18th April 2019.
Take the right hand crack line to the top
DOG SHOW TRIALS 10m VS 4c
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3rd October 2020.
Take the crack right of PIT BULLS DAY OUT to a horizontal break and a blank wall, traverse right into the groove and pull your way up that to finish up the slab.
MAIDENS HAIR HS 4b
John O'Connor, Sandra O'Regan, 12th June 2022.
Take the right facing corner 3m right of DOG SHOW TRIALS.
CLOSE CONTACT VS 5a
Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 26th May 2021.
5m right and uphill of DOG SHOW TRIALS there is a smooth wall split by small vertical cracks, climb the double vertical cracks on the right hand side of this.
DELTA VARIANT S
Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, Barry Watts, 26th May 2021.
Climb the alcove right of CLOSE CONTACT.
Further South/Right the hillside breaks up into three tiers of rock, the lowest tier become steeper and more continuous and the following routes start along here.
SLI NA SIDHE HS
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 6th September 2020.
Thin crack 2m left of WESTROPP'S WAY.
WESTROPP'S WAY D
Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 6th September 2020.
Takes the first deep crack/fault in the buttress
SICKLE SWEEP HS 4b
Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 26th May 2021.
5m right of WESTROPP'S WAY there is a cave in the cliff at 5m, climb the wide crack to the cave, traverse left along a ledge for 3m and climb diagonally rightwards to the top.
SLAB AND TICKLE * S
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 6th September 2020.
8m right of WESTROPP'S WAY and between two patches of vegetation there is a left curving hanging corner formed by an overlap in the slab. Climb the slab and corner to the top.
RUN OF THE FAIRIES * S
Gerry Galligan (1&2), Barry Watts (3), 16/6/2018.
Oughtdarra's first multi pitch climb, start at a prominent cave/crack on the far right of the three tier buttress.
1 10m Climb the crack to a grassy ledge.
2 7m Bridge your way up the v shaped chimney.
3 5m Climb the crescent shaped flakes to the top.
Family Fun Variation:
Cearbhall Daly, RoseMarie Daly, 12/9/2020.
2 4b 7m Climb the crack directly in line above the top of pitch one
First ascent of RACE FOR THE ARAS
RACE FOR THE ARAS S
Barry Watts (1&3), Colm Peppard (2), 27th October 2018.
Start 2m right of RUN OF THE FAIRIES
1 10m Climb the wall past a key shaped crack to a grassy ledge.
2 7m Climb the crack 2m right of the v shaped chimney.
3 5m Ascend the easy cracks/ramps to the top.
3 UNIQUE JUMPER FINISH HS 4b
Climb the thin crack and wall to the ledge and trend right to finish.
LAST CHANCE SALOON VD
Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 12th September 2020.
An eliminate that climbs the featured wall 3m right of RACE FOR THE ARAS starting at the same level.
FIR BOLG VS 4c
Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 12th September 2020.
Takes the wide crack on the second tier above LAST CHANCE SALOON.
The continuous three tier crag ends and the next routes are 20m up a grassy boulder strewn slope.
PILLAR OF JOY S
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3rd October 2020.
Climb the cracks in the broken pillar, at the second ledge move around to the left and finish up the short ridge.
BACK TO ARAN S
Paddy O'Brien, Gerry Galligan, 12th September 2020.
Starts at a short groove, leading on to a leftward-facing arete. Climb both groove and arete. Mind the loose matter above.
TÍR NA PHÚCA VS 4c
Gerry Galligan, Paddy O'Brien, 12th September 2020.
Directly behind the free-standing pillar at the right-hand end of the recessed wall, is a leftward trending crack. Climb this to the top.
FRIGGERIFFICO HS 4b
Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 28th September 2018, ground up with rests.
Finger crack and cracked wall to top.
POWER SEIZURE VS 4c
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3rd October 2020.
Start 3m right of FRIGGERIFFICO and just left of a large block, climb the wall past a steep bulge and move left into a niche and finish more easily.
BLISTER HS
Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 3rd October 2020.
Climb the corner right of POWER SEIZURE, easy at first and thrutchy to finish.
CHASM RAVE VS 4c
Barry Watts (unseconded), 28th September 2018.
Climb the steep groove to the grassy ledge, finish up the crack behind.
ROCK AND ROLL HVS 5b
Dermot Shiels, Ciaran Cleary, September 2011.
Climb the steep groove and vertical crack on the left hand side of the buttress to a ledge left of the overhang. Step right and climb the featured wall to a spacious belay ledge above.
FINNBHEAR ** HVS 5b
David Fahey, Niall O Tuathail, 8th July 2022.
Strenuous hand and fist Jamming or lay backing up to the flared chimney, finish straight up from here to discover the cave behind the wall. A great little fight! (definitely harder than it looks!) Finnbhear was the king of the fairies in the west of Ireland, his realm was only accessible through caves or underground passages!
YOUNGLING HVS 5b
Dermot Shiels, Brian McCarthy, August 2011.
The fist and hand jamming crack on the right hand side of the buttress. Climb the crack up to the overhang and take the right hand crack through the overhang.
THE ULSTERMAN VD
Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 6th September 2020.
Gives a fine tour up the right hand ramparts of this wall. Start at a steep hand crack on the right hand side of the crag, climb this strenuously to a ledge, move right and climb another wall to a bigger ledge, traverse right following a wide crack up an airy ridge to the top.
Leaba na hAon Bhó
The next set of routes are found on a wall a few minutes further East/Inland from Northern Buttress. Approach: Climb the grassy ramp/gully between Northern Buttress and Central Areas. The wall should be instantly visible to the east.
It is also possible to approach from Leacht na nAmadan using the car parking details above, walking through the fields in the valley is easier underfoot than traversing the uneven ground directly beneath the cliffs.
Just to the north of Chimney of Doom is a small face with an obvious cross shape formed by intersecting horizontal and vertical cracks.
WOUNDED KNEE D
Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, Sara Lynch, 12 August 2017.
The corner on the left hand side of the face.
GRAZED KNUCKLE D
Ian McLoughlin, Stefan Reiman, 12 August 2017.
Climb the central crack.
200m North of LIGHTNING STRIKE a stone wall meets a detached pillar. The chimney to the left when looking at the cliff face is Chimney of Doom.
CHIMNEY OF DOOM D
Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, Sara Lynch, 12 August 2017.
Easy chimney.
Left of the main buttress, there is a small wall, identifiable by a large lightning shaped crack on it's right hand end.
MONKEY SHUFFLE 8m VS 4c
Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 16th June 2018.
Climbs the edge 4m left of the right facing corner using a crack on the left and some flakes on the right, high first step at start and easier thereafter.
COMIC TIMING 8m HS
Ian McLoughlin, Stefan Reiman, Barry Watts, 31st March 2018.
There is a right facing corner 10m left of the lightning bolt crack.
Climb the cracked wall 1m left of this.
CORONER'S CORNER 8m VD
Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, Barry Watts, 31st March 2018.
Climb the shallow right facing corner 4m to the left of the lightning bolt
THE GRAPES OF WRATH 8m VS 4b
P. Wood, G. Galligan, July 2011.
2m to the left of the lightning bolt is a large sloping chimney, capped by a large block. Start from the top of a detached block, about 2m left of the open chimney. Climb the flake strenuosuly. Not much gear, and when you think it's over it isn't.
PULL LIKE A DOG HS 4b
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 26th March 2023.
Climb the off width crack and open chimney between The Grapes and Lightning. Tricky start to get standing on chock stone, be gentle with the jammed block at the overhang, exit to the left.
LIGHTNING STRIKE 8m VD
Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 16th June 2018.
Climb the wide lightning-strike shaped cleft on sparse protection. Airy.
FANTAPANTS 10m S
Gerry Galligan, Jindra Kaplicka, Barry Watts, 7th July 2012.
6m to the right of the lightening strike, next to a drystone wall, is an obvious protruding ridge. Climb the ridge. Purists will avoid the boulders at base.
STRIPPER D
Terry Sommerville, Sinead Johnston, 27th Feb 2020.
Between Fantapants and Slab of Heineken. Basically on the gap/crack on the opposite side of lightning strike. Loads of great gear and a nice climb to get warmed up on trad.
SLAB OF HEINEKEN D
Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 31st March 2018.
3m right of FANTAPANTS there is a two tier slab. Climb this on the right hand side trending
slightly leftwards
The next 2 climbs are found on a large detached pillar 15m right of the lightning crack butters.
THE BALROG ** E1 5c
Dermot Shiels, Ciaran Cleary, September 2011.
Climb the arrete of the large detached pillar. After a boulder start, protect the next hard moves with a sling on a flake hold left of the arete. Nice climbing on very thin layback flakes to get to the top.
JACK IN THE BOX VS
Ciaran Cleary, Dermot Shiels, September 2011.
Climbs the face to the right of The Balrog.
About 5m to the right there is a cracked wall with some grassy ledges,
MUCKSAVAGE CRACK S
Barry Watts, Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 31st March 2018.
Climb the cleanest crack on the left, the start is steep.
About 10m to the right there is another pillar with a handy descent behind.
JUGS WALL HS 4b
Barry Watts, Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 31st March 2018.
Climb the wall 1m right of the left edge to the top, the start is steep and there is a good medium/large friend slot in a big jug hold halfway up.
JUGS GALORE VS 4c
Ciaran Cleary, Cian Hogan, 02/08/2011.
This climb is 16m left of GOTTA SCRATCH AN ITCH on a pillar with hazel bushes in front and descent gully behind, start 4m from the left of the pillar. Climb through a small over hang using a hidden hand hold, good holds and gear all the way to the top.
HIGH STEP VS 4c
Ciaran Cleary, Cian Hogan, 02/08/2011.
This is 2m right of JUGS GALORE pull up through another small over hang up the crack to the top
10m further on there is a smooth cracked clean buttress that is 30m long before it ends in a cave/rift.
GOTTA SCRATCH AN ITCH * HS 4b
C. Hogan, D. Gallagher, June 2011.
Couple of metres left of 'Wheels within wheels'. Start at the wall and climb up to the flake. Reach left to good holds on the bulge and pull up. Continue up slab to top. (wouldn't be 100% sure on the grade)
WHEELS WITHIN WHEELS * S
Radu Toma, Barry Watts, Keith Nevin, 28th May 2011.
10m left of Nervoous Laughter there is a buttress of excellent quality less steep rock.
Climb the striking left hand crack steeply at first to the top.
KARMIC RETRIBUTION VS 4b
Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts 17th July 2011.
Follows the interesting rib 1m right of Wheels within Wheels to the top.
BÓ DIDDLEY * MVS 4a
Malcolm O'Beirn, Glenn Watson 19th May 2024.
Straight up the overhang between KARMIC RETRIBUTION and PADDY THE PLASTERER, follow the curved crack at the top. Start and end a bit harder than PADDY THE PLASTERER direct start.
PADDY THE PLASTERER S
John Ringrose, Jeff Ringrose, Georgina Quain, September 2005.
Right of WHEELS WITHIN WHEELS the buttress becomes smooth and cracked.
Start as for CELTIC TIGER for the less intrepid or directly off an embedded block and make bouldery moves to monster jugs which lead up to a small ledge at mid height.
Marvel at the smooth nature of the rock ! Interesting moves on solid rock bring you past the almost crucifix like cracks to the top.
CELTIC TIGER HS
Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg, 26th May 2019.
Start 1m left of STALL THE DIGGER, follow the slab and move right onto the arête when holds diminish, a pointy block in the corner was used once to gain the upper arete.
STALL THE DIGGER D
John Ringrose, Jeff Ringrose, Georgina Quain, September 2005.
Takes the easy angled corner-groove on the right hand side to the top.
SACRED COW D
Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts 16th July 2011.
Follows the rib 1m right of Stall the Digger to the top
GREEK BAILOUT S
Barry Watts, Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 31st March 2018.
Long drawn out terms and conditions on Oughtdarra's first traverse route!
Climb SACRED COW for 3m, traverse leftwards along the narrow ledges as far as WHEELS WITHIN WHEELS. Two options here going leftwards to the wide crack finish; a high level traverse or a same level traverse.
DONDAGE D
Don Bosco Rogers, Tracy Smith, 13th April 2015.
About 2m to the right of Sacred Cow, looks like a step, loose rocks, trends to the left, not the first ascent
JINGLE MAIL VS 4c
Barry Watts, Jindra Kaplicka, Gerry Galligan, 7th July 2012.
An eliminate going up the right-hand side of slab, 3m right of Sacred Cow. Gain the eliminate, small pock-marks to large, left-trending line of weakness. Finish directly.
DO BOTHER VD
Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 27/05/2017.
Start at bottom of the wide crack/fault but climb the outside face/arete using the large flake.
MAYBE BOTHER VD
Ian McLoughlin, Stefan Reiman, 27/05/2017.
Climb the wide crack/fault. Traverse to Golden Circle at about 3m.
GOLDEN CIRCLE S
Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 16th July 2011.
Start 2m left of the cave entrance, follow the obvious narrow crack line over a few small ledges to the top
LICK MORE BLOOD HS
Radu Toma, Stephen Bender, Aug 2012.
Climb the arete (left layback moves), left of "NERVOUS LAUGHTER", on very sharp holds up to an obvious crack with good hand holds and good protection. From here easy scramble to the top, and over the chimney.
From left to right:
NERVOUS LAUGHTER E1 5a
Colm Shannon, Darragh O'Conghaile, November 2009.
Strenuous and awkward climbing to start following the crack up half way before moving leftward. Finish on better holds.
GRINGO'S ESCAPE 6a HighBall Problem
Colm Shannon, November 2009.
Interesting start on a thin crack to gain good hold 3m up. From here strenuous moves to gain under cut and then grassy ledge. Another ledge about a foot up allows you to bring up your feet and finish relatively easily from here.
FACE PLANT ** HVS 4c/5a
First ascent Clive Cusack, Jeff Ringrose, September 2005.
First recorded ascent Colm Shannon, 2009 Enjoyable lay backing to start up to the point where crack widens. Here gain good hold on right of crack, step up on onto a small notch and reach for high hold out left(crux). Easier Finish.
COCO * E1 5b
Dermot Shiels, Ciaran Cleary, 25th July 2011.
Climbs the overhanging groove 8m right of Face Plant. Layback the thin crack up to a good hold on the rib to the right of the overhanging groove. Pull through to easier climbing above.
CRUBEEN * VS 4c
Dermot Shiels, Radu Toma, 25th July 2011.
Nice shallow corner with layback crack 3m right of Coco, with a tricky move near the top.
GRACE UNDER PRESSURE ** E2 5c
J Healy, G O'Mahony, 15th April 2017.
Just left of Lick The Blood a pair of cracks go directly up a groove. Climb the groove strenuously to excellent jams at half height. After a few more moves a good hold right of the crack leads to better and the top. Sustained
LICK THE BLOOD: VS 4b
Radu Toma, Dermot Shiels, 25th July 2011.
Climbs the arete (with a laybacking crack) 2m left of The Mad Vet. Easy start with good protection, step right and prepare to layback from half way all the way to the top. Committing!
THE MAD VET VS 4c
Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 17th July 2011.
Takes the short wide crack on the right of the buttress. The rock is solid but be prepared for a strenuous exit to finish.
TEDS TINKERS HS 4b
J Healy, R Daly, 30/03/2017.
Start up King of the Faeries. At 3m step left to the foot of the arete. Climb the arete to the top.
KING OF THE FAIRIES * HS 4b
Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 17th July 2011.
6m right of The Mad Vet and facing a holly tree and boulder there is a corner capped by a triangular overhang. Climb the corner branching out steeply right to finish.
Variation: Direct Finish * HS 4b
Gerry Galligan, Peter Wood, 31st July 2011.
Climb the corner up to and left of the overhang.
NONO * E1 5b
Dermot Shiels, Niamh McGreen, 26th July 2011.
Climbs the finger cracks 2m right of King of the Fairies. Climb the finger cracks to reach a thin flake to the right where the cracks end. Pull up on small face holds to reach better holds above.
THE CLOSET BREXITEER VD
R Daly, J Healy, 30/03/2017.
Climb the corner that forms the left hand side of the bay.
THE KNACK * HS 4c
J Healy, R Daly, 30/03/2017.
Climb the crack up the centre of the cross at the base of the wall. A long move gains a good hold above. Pull up strenuously and continue more easily to the top.
SWAMPY JOCKS * VD
J Healy, R Daly, 30/03/2017.
Start R of the cross below a recessed scoop in the wall. Climb directly up and out of the scoop.
THE KID, HEH * S
Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 6/5/2019.
Start 1m right of SWAMPY JOCKS. climb the ramp and steep wall and finish up the clean cracked slab above on good but spaced holds.
THE SHNOZ, HEH S
Ian McLoughlin, Stefan Reiman, 28/05/2017.
Start 1m left of Toilet Time. Climb the outside of the nose between Swampy Jocks and Toilet Time.
Mitch on Mitchin Impossible
TOILET TIME VD
Darragh Conneely, Mitch Miller, 7/02/2010.
Climb the left corner
THE SHLAB, HEH S
Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 28/05/2017.
Straight up middle of slab between Toilet Time and Mitchin Impossible without using either crack.
MITCHIN IMPOSSIBLE * HS 4b
Mitch Miller, Darragh Conneely, 07/02/2010.
Follow middle crack.
THE DIRTY HALF DOZEN S
S. Reiman, I. McLoughlin, C. Mazzanti, Sara Mulango, J. Linde, D. Hendrick, 17/9/2017.
Straight up middle of slab between Mitchin Impossible and There's Something About Mary. Even looking at either vertical crack is considered cheating.
THERES SOMETHING ABOUT MARY D
L Timoney, J Healy, 30/03/2017.
Start 3m right of Mitchin Impossible. Climb the crack to where it curves left and steepens. Step R here and climb the straight crack directly up to the top.
PIECE OF CAKE D
Petra Tolarová, Stefan Reiman, Dermot O'Dwyer, 16/04/2017.
Start 2m right of THERES SOMETHING ABOUT MARY. Climb the obvious crack to the top.
Darragh on Soft Landing
POP VD
Stefan Reiman, Petra Tolarová, Dermot O'Dwyer, 16/04/2017.
Start at gap between boulder and left-hand side of wall. Climb crack in centre of left-hand wall past a horizontal crack at 2/3 height.
GLEBE VS
Dermot O'Dwyer, Stefan Reiman, Petra Tolarová, 16/04/2017.
Climb left-hand crack in centre of wall. Difficulty eases after first moves.
BACK IN THE SHIT ** HVS 5a
Colm Shannon, Darragh Conneely, 07/02/2010.
Make some hard moves off the ground to get a big hold on top of the block wedged in the crack. From here use the crack and crimps to the left to finish up.
SOFT LANDING HVS 5a
Darragh Conneely, Mitch Miller, 07/02/2010.
Difficult moves to get over the bulge at the start.
(Direct Start - E1 5b - Gabrielle Orsini, Radu Toma, 10/08/2013 - takes the shallow crack slightly to the left of the main crack.)
Colm on The Reach
THE REACH ** E1/2 6a
Colm Shannon, Un-seconded 07/02/2010.
Start to the left of the slab with both hands on a sharp pocket (where my left foot is in picture). From here step up onto high holds and stand tall, leaning into the slab, before reaching far to the right for the feature. After this, much easier climbing leads to the top.
Note 1: This will probably not be possible for people of short to average stature :-)
Note 2: (for the short people :) 10/08/2013) use good high left handhold (side pull) in order to bring right foot onto the sharp pocket. This will enable you to reach far right.
MIND YOUR MONKEY BONE VS 4c
Ciaran Cleary, Brian McCarthy, 30/07/2011.
This start 4m right of THE REACH on a pillar with a stone wall at the base on it, start to the left of the wall bouldering start on OK gear to reach a lay back to good holds to the top.
WHERES ME FINGER TAPE HVS 5a
Ciaran Cleary, Dave Cummins, 21/05/2012.
2m right of mind your monkey bone, hop over the wall to a blank wall with 2 horizontal cracks start in the middle climb up to the second crack using small wires, then traverse left to the arete, follow to the top.
AILL RIGHT NOW VS
Dermot O'Dwyer, Stefan Reiman, Petra Tolarová, 16/04/17.
Climb corner underneath overhang, continue straight up the crack above.
Further right again there is an 8m high free standing boulder called Balors Molar.
ROOT CANAL 8m S 4a
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 26th March 2023.
On the North face of Balors Molar start at the bottom left and climb rightwards over ledges and flakes to the top, a roped traverse by the East ridge seems to be the best available descent route.
Dave on Blood on the Rack HS
BLOOD ON THE RACK 8m HS
David Atkinson, Jono Redmond, 02/01/2021.
The crack on the South face of Balors Molar. Follow the broken crack to the top on interesting holds.
Line of Mobility Issues VS
MOBILITY ISSUES VS
Jono Redmond, David Atkinson, 02/01/2021.
100m to the right of Blood on the rack, there is a large upside down pyramid of rock amongst some trees. Mobility Issues starts at the base of a crack. Climb 3m into a scoop underneath an overhang and make a tricky move right into a chimney. Venture inwards and exit up and at the back of the chimney via a tight squeeze!
Cottage Buttress
A small outcrop 100m East of and above Leaba na hAon Bhó, the routes are short but there are clean lines to climb on.
HOWLIN' WOLF S
Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, 1st July 2023.
Wide crack/chimney past a good chockstone.
PEIG D
Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 26th March 2023.
A pleasant groove at the grade.
TAKE THE LONG WAY HOME S
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 26th March 2023.
Climb easily to platform and follow the crsck above.
GIVE ME SHELTER * HS
Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 1st July 2023.
Pleasant and well protected. Climb the easy left facing corner to a sloping shelf, finish up the steeper cracks above (crux).
Ballynahown
Moved to Ballynahown page as this is a crag in development in a different townland to Oughtdarra
