Aillnagapple
Introduction
An exposed, West facing crag, which dries quickly with great views out over Ballyvaughan Bay. The height varies between 10-15m and the rock is generally solid with sharp holds. The protection has been found to be good on routes, with surprisingly good cam placements. It is situated on a saddle between Moneen Mountain and Sliabh na gCapall to the North and can be clearly seen as you drive East out of Ballyvaughan on the N67, as shown in the picture below.
Approach
The crag is accessed from it's North-Easterly side, not from where it can be seen in the photo above. The access described below is through private land, so please respect the land-owners wishes.
On the N67 between Kinvara and Ballyvaughan there is a sharp bend in the road at a place called Bell Harbour/Bealaclugga. From here head towards Ballyvaughan for approximately 1.5km until there is a lane on the right opposite two abandoned buildings (a house and another building). Park down this lane, being careful not to block farm machinery access by parking tightly against the ditch.
From here the walk-up is about 30 minutes and is vaguely along the lines of the yellow line above, bring a walking pole and don't wear sandals. The line of the walk can be seem from the lane as a green strip, in between the scree, heading diagonally rightward (West ward) up the hill behind the abandoned house. This line through the field (cows) behind the house is by the gate to it's right. Once you are on the green strip, follow it and a steep, rough trail until you come across a cairn. From here the angle eases and you pass two wooden posts. Follow the mountain around to the left passing a low slabby buttress on your left. Pass over a dry stone wall just after this. From here continue around to the left until Aillnagapple comes into view on your left. The first obvious line with the crack running up the middle of an otherwise blank looking slab is Singing In The Rain.
Left to right: Cow Buffet, Delivery Boy, Singing In The Rain, Attack Of The Orange Space Ants, Mine's a T-bone, Cruel Summer, Mistaken Identity, The Bonny Hare, The Emperors Trousers, London Bridge, Your Ma!
To the left of Cow Buffet is a steep gully with grass, the rock just left of this gully has been used as a descent for all of the routes.
Cow Buffet D
Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 9/8/2024.
Climb the crack left of the ridge to the grassy ledge, finish up the corner on the right.
Delivery Boy 12m HS
S. McGowan (Onsight Solo), 22/08/2010.
This takes the blank looking groove/corner on the left, near the top of the main wall. Slightly contrived when it steps right avoiding the easier ground left of the corner. Start on easy ground with a grassy/overgrown corner between you and the main face to your right. From here climb up until you can step right back onto the main face. Work your way up the corner and a crack out right with lots of bomber gear until an awkward move leads to the finishing holds. The groove is a lot less blank than it looks.
Singing In The Rain * 12m VS 4c
S. McGowan, A. Grennan (Onsight), 21/08/2010.
The obvious line of the crag. Start below the crack that splits the otherwise blank looking slab on the main face. Continue up this using smears, jams, slopers and crimps until the crack disappears near the top. From here go straight up through the horizontal breaks to reach the top.
Attack Of The Orange Space Ants * 15m S
A. Grennan, S. McGowan (Onsight), 22/08/2010.
There is a pillar resting against the crag to the right of Singing In The Rain. Start below and to the right of this pillar. Climb the right hand face of the pillar until you can reach a clean wide crack on the wall above. Start up this then step left to make use of the other crack to your left. Continue up to a ledge with some clumps of grass (beware of orange space ants). From here you can move slightly left and gain the face above before finishing directly.
Mine's a T-Bone * 15m S
Cormac Flynn, Colin Tierney, 03/07/2024.
Start as for Attack of the Orange Space Ants but continue straight up on good holds and protection.
Cruel Summer * 15m VD
Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 9/8/2024.
To the right of the pillar of Attack of the Orange Space Ants lies another smaller pillar, climb the slab and upper wall left of this.
Mistaken Identity * 15m Diff
Cormac Flynn, Megan Flynn, 05/09/2023.
To the right of the pillar of Attack of the Orange Space Ants lies another smaller pillar. Climb up this and the wall above.
The Bonny Hare 12m Diff
Ingolf Kühn (Onsight Solo), 09/05/2024.
Climb up the slab between Mistaken Identity and The Emperors Trousers to the ramp (somewhat to the left) and finish up the steeper wall above.
The Emperors Trousers 12m Diff
S. McGowan (Onsight Down-Soloed), 22/08/2010.
Start 10m right of Attack Of The Orange Space Ants, just before the base of the climbs moves up the slope and the routes get shorter. Climb straight up the vague arete to a grassy ledge. From here go slightly right before finishing up the face and crack above. There were two loose blocks in the second half which should probably be removed but they weren't an immediate danger. Possible descent route for the next two routes.
The next two routes are on a shorter wall that is facing more northerly than the rest of the crag.
London Bridge 10m S
A. Grennan, S. McGowan (Onsight), 22/08/2010.
So called because of the amount of loose rock that was found on the first ascent, but has since been cleaned. On the shorter wall there is a crack running almost from bottom to top. Start just right of this and climb up to gain possibly the biggest jug known to man. From here move up the crack and the face right of it past a loose block (that doesn't want to move) at half height. You can then gain a grassy ledge and the final crack above.
Your Ma! ** 10m E2 5c
S. McGowan, A. Grennan (Onsight), 22/08/2010.
Short but enjoyable. There's more holds than there first appears, but spotting them all on lead can add to the interest. Start below a scoop in the wall to the right of London Bridge. Climb the small corner to reach a series of flakes. Place some good gear behind these before making some interesting moves to the first break. Place a good large cam before another amusing move leads to the next juggy break. Mantle the grass ledge and continue up through some rock and grass to reach the anchors. Small people may hate me for this one.
