Cuilcagh Gap
2.75 km North West of the summit of Cuilcagh. (Grid Ref. H099296, Sheet 26, Lough Allen) When looking at the profile of Cuilcagh Mountain from the Macnean valley there is an obvious square cut gap in the square summit ridge near it's right hand end. There are a number of small buttresses and pinnacles in this area. Further east above Lough Atona is a large clean buttress with no routes recorded.
This is a large free-standing block, conspicuous by being split. It is in the boulder field some 100 m east of the gap.
PIN HOLES 10m D
T.Fogg, N.Young 17th June 1983
Climbs the wall just left of the boulder-choked gully which forms the descent. (No protection)
PIN HEAD ARÊTE 15m VD
T.Fogg, N.Young 17th June 1983
Climbs the arête right of chimney which splits the north face of The Pin.
MIDGE SLAB 10m D
T.Fogg, N.Young 17th June 1983
Climbs the slab to the right of Pin Head. (No protection)
Soñar E6 6a 30m ***
A. Marshall, P. Swail
A surprisingly unrelenting route with many surprises. It takes the left of the 2 obvious aretes above the boulder field right of the green mesh walk in to culcagh mountain.
A hard committing and unprotected start (crux) leaves you at the first horizontal break with good gear. From here proceed up the face and arete until left at a slot high on the wall move up and out right to the arete and onto the other side. From a good flat hold move up and left to a comfortable position below the final piece of the arete. Beware of the small friable holds at this point. Gaining the jug above this leaves a short trip up some wobbly blocks to the top.
Pads protected the start.
The Easy VS 10m
R.Bell,Berno 21st Sep 2021
Just right of the stairs (N0.1), an above the 1st boulder field, In the corner about 50m over just below a clean flat slab of rock. A Horizontal Crack, start on the ledge below, jamming mostly the whole way to the top, Cams are a benefit on the climb.
Two Finger & Toe E1 6b 27m
R.Bell,A.Acheson 1st Sep 2022
Just in the middle crag (N0.2) as you will see on the approach.
Stepping out unto a nearly detached pillar like from the Top being cellarful(a Traverse line for safety may be helpful, From Boulder).
Abseil down the left side to the bottom, Plenty to construct a anchor her including a piton.
Here you find the start of the climb.
A large crack running quarter way up, with a flake to the right.
Near top of this crack ,step out to your left, don't pull to hard on the loose boulder/s sitting on top of each other.
Stepping up onto the boulders, an take a few boulder problem moves to grip the spike like rock to pull up brings you to a few more boulder like problems.
The next 1.5 m is the hardest part, with little to no real holds, with some good gear placements available gives you boost, an top out nicely.
The Slab D 5m
A.Acheson, R.Bell 1st Sep 2022
Small slab like climb (N0.4), with good two way jamming crack running the whole way up, makes a nice easy climb.
This part of the crag is found around 50m past the outstanding biggest east facing Buttress that you will notice on approach.
Two Pitons Lie on rock Behind the climb.
Midget Crack HS 4c 27m
R.Bell,A.Acheson 1st Sep 2022
(On N0.5)
The on the right hand crack as your at the bottom looking at the cliff. Another 50m there about past the slab route(N0.4 Crag Area).You will spot the unstable looking boulder across the way!
Good Gear Placements the whole way up.3/4 way up step out to right up the grass corner(Some Lose Rock May be here, an top out.
Before the Step out to the grass ledge, Its possible to continue straight up the crack to top out at a (HVS).
Mighty Crack Up E2 5c ?
(Yet to be Cleanly Climbed)
Across the way below the Unstable looking boulder at the top ,lies beneath a large crack straight to the top, narrowing towards the top.
Large cams is a must for the bottom part of the climb. Big body jamming crack, slightly overhanging half way up.
