Annalecka Buttress

Annalecka Buttress

This small buttress is only two or three minutes walk from the road. Although short, each route presents its own difficulties. Protection is mostly good apart from one or two routes which require confidence. The rock is a very rough granite with a high volume of quartz. Seamus Crowley discovered the area back in 2005 and developed some bouldering problems. Dave Flanagans "Bouldering in Ireland" has a couple of pages dedicated to the problems to be found here. There's potential for maybe one or two more routes here but they are high in the grade and unprotected.

Note: Some of these routes may or may not have been climbed in the past but were never recorded. Please see [1] and [2]

Approach

Coming from Laragh take the R756 over Wicklow Gap and descend down the western side. Park on the left hand side just before the bridge for Annalecka Brook with white railings.

Walk up the track until you see a St Kevin's Way signpost. Continue to follow the track around to the right for a about fifty meters. The buttress is down on the left hand side.

1. Picnic Basket VS 4c

Gain the short crack and finish strenuously to the top.

Aodhnait Carroll, Danielle Rosenberg Polak 11/3/12

2. Becky HVS 5a

Start below the right hand of 3 diagonal cracks in the middle of the buttress. Using ledges and a good hand hold move up onto the small sloping ledge. Arrange gear in the left hand crack (good Cam and large Wire) then make bold moves on small holds to the top. A final good cam can be used to protect the final move.

Rob Davies, Debbie Davies 10/3/12

3. Shannon VS 4c

Gain the short crack in the middle of the buttress and continue up to better holds then follow the deep crack out left and to the top.

Terrance Glancy, Aodhnait Carroll 14/1/12

4. Sixteen Mississippi HS 4b

Start as for Shannon. Follow the small right trending ledge for a bit then follow the crack rightwards to finish.

Terrance Glancy, Aodhnait Carroll 14/1/12

5. Shush Your Mouth S 4a Not HS as topo shows.

A crescent shaped route. Gain the rightward trending crack and follow the left curve to finish. Well protected.

Aodhnait Carroll, Terrance Glancy 14/1/12

6. Mudhammer S 4a

The deep crack is flared and dirty!

Danny Kennedy, Marco Waddock 11/3/12

7. So Does Straight On VS 4c

Start up the right trending crack and delicately make your way up to the fading cracks to finish.

Aodhnait Carroll, Danielle Rosenberg Polak 11/3/12

8. So Sideways Works S 4a

Start as for So Does Straight On and follow the narrow ledge and cracks out right to finish.

Aodhnait Carroll, Terrance Glancy 14/1/12

9. There's Always a First VS 4c

Start 1m left of "Becky". Move up and right on delicate feet with hands on the sloping ledge. Gain the ledge and step right onto the ramp with balancy move without hands. Traverse along the ramp and through to the right trending crack. Finish as for "Sixteen Mississippi". Bring many "friends" and keep your second in mind when arranging the protection.

Piotr Berlowski, Rob Davies 08/04/12

10. Pesto Special HS 4a

If you nip around the corner to the right from So Sideways Works the crag reduces in height quite significantly, but there is one major line which really stands out. Gain the very obvious large niche/ledge by a slightly dynamic move before trending leftwards to reach the top.

Dave Gillard, Alison Gillard 25/3/12