Binn Diarmada

Three Sisters. OS discovery Sheet 70 GR 356 088

Crooked Sister 50m E2 5b
S. Gallwey, J. Bergin June 1993
This climb is situated on the cliffs to the west of of the eastern-most of the Three Sisters, and follows a well defined overhanging corner with a marked overhang at about half height.
Access. Travel through the settlement of Smerwick and continue on to the east along the boreen to its end, where it is possible to park and turn a car. Walk north to the lowest point of the cliff line, about 15 minutes. Scramble down the slab just east of a zawn and then traverse along rock pavements and rock fall debris in an easterly direction. The corner of "Crooked Sister" is immediately obvious in the middle of a large impending wall, just beyond a large rockfall and about 100m short of the large cave.
The line of the route is obvious and is climbed in one long pitch. The final belay is in a deep cleft a few meters above and to the R of the last steep section.
The rock is relatively fragile, though not loose, so use lots of protection, large to medium rocks and hexes, but save a few 8's and 9's for the extreme overhang. Friends are disappointing, especially in the lower section.
The climb is steeper, and therefore, harder than it looks. Don't lose heart at the overhang. There is a 'no hands' rest immediately above and the upper section offers rough rock with good holds, jams and protection.