Murroughkilly

Introduction

The long limestone escarpment of Murroughkilly faces west and runs north/south above the village of Fanore between Black Head lighthouse and the Khyber Pass road. The crag has an atmosphere all of its own, ancient and wild, its only regular visitors being a herd of wild goats. It can be a good alternative when Ailladie is affected by sea-spray, though it takes the full brunt of westerly winds itself. Given that it is an unfrequented mountain cliff care should be taken with the rock, particularly at the tops of routes. Most of the climbs follow corners and cracks and there is still much scope for new routes.

Local considerations - If you have visited Ballyryan and feel like a champion after a days climbing and decide to head up to this wonderful crag then read the following.

The rock quality varies and your safe ascent of many of these climbs require good judgement and steady climbing technique in dealing with loose pebbles and the odd loose mini flake. Many of the cracks on routes can be flared and do not lend themselves readily to nut protection. Making a decent belay can require going 20m back from the cliff top. There are only a handful of easy descents so you may have to walk a long way in rock shoes if you don't like back climbing moderates or abseiling.

Access - For the left-hand (northern) end of the crag park at the Black Head lighthouse (limited parking) and go straight up the hillside to reach the old ruined fort (Cathair Dhún Irghuis) after about 15 minutes. The crag can be easily seen ahead and to the right at about 450m.

For the southern end park about 1km up the Khyber Pass road just beyond the pass itself. There is a gate on the left. From here cross the stream, passing some sheep pens, and head diagonally leftwards up towards the crag. This route is not great as it traverse alot of broken ground and there are number of 'false cliffs' along the way. Better still park on the grassy verge on the Khyber Pass road adjacent to Murrough Bridge and the Caher River, walk Northwards along the main coast road and turn right after 140m to gain a gravel lane way (houses) that leads afrer a stile onto a pedestrian Green Road. About 400m along the Green Road turn right and head Eastwards through limestone pavements and over stone walls to reach the crag. All approaches between 30 and 50 minutes.

(View of Black Head from the North showing Murroughkilly cliffs in the top left hand corner)

An aerial video of the area is here https://www.shutterstock.com/video/clip-1017303724-aerial-birds-eye-view-burren-national-park

The main crag is divided into 10 separate areas described from left to right (north to south) and there are 2 areas East of and above the main cliff. The height mostly varies from 10m to 20m with Central Buttress heading towards 30m.

Walk from the old fort to the junction of the stone walls and continue in the same line to reach the bay with the clean bulging buttress on the right which gives this area its name (Doon Buttress). The climbs are on the steep clean wall on the left which is cut by vertical cracks and bounded on the left by a short corner. Left of this the escarpment is broken and vegetated.

Doon Buttress

OCTOBER * HS 4c
D. Walsh, P. Redmond, 28/10/84.
Climb the corner. Step right and climb the left-hand of two curving flake cracks (crux)

DOOM AND GLOOM E1 5b
A. & P. McFarlane, September 1988.
The left-hand of the two central cracks on Doon Buttress.

DOONSBURY VD
A. & P. McFarlane, September 1988.
Takes the corner/crack system 2-3m right of Doom and Gloom.

150m South there is a protruding buttress with descent ramps on either side

Really Far North Buttress

SCOILT CLEACHTADH S
Barry Watts, Nigel Callender, 17/8/1998.
Climb the crack on the left, the crux is the overhang at the top.

POM'S PARADISE 15m HS 4a
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 24/9/2017.
Start 5m right of SCOILT CLEACTADH, follow the thin crack to the top. Protection is sparse in the lower half, micro wires may help, the upper half is well protected.

O'DONOGHUE'S CRACK 15m VD
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 24/9/2017.
Obvious wide crack where wall turns South facing.

DUNE RIDER 15m VD
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 24/9/2017.
Thin crack 3m right of O'Donoghoe's Crack, finish up stepped upper wall.

Far North Buttress

This is the cleanest expanse of rock at this end of the crag. The routes are on a small wall bounded on the left by a chimney and on the right by a wide crack and buttress. Descent is by the grass ramp on the left.

THE NUTTER E1 5c
T. Taylor, M. Flannery, 1/9/94.
The zig-zag crack below the short chimney in the wall at the bottom of the descent ramp.

CORNISH RAIDER S
S. Young, D. Walsh, 4/6/85.
This is the big chimney at the left of the clean wall. Step onto the wall from the top of the chimney and climb the overhang above (crux).

PEREGRINE FALCOFF * HS
D. Walsh, S. Young, 4/6/85.
The first V-groove right of the chimney. The crux is a thrutch at 8m.

TRUE WEST ** E2 5b
I. Rea, C. Torrans, M. Rea, 29/10/85.
Good technical climbing with a bold crux. From the foot of the second groove climb up and right to a thin crack. Gain the capped niche and finish via the short clean corner above.

SQUALL E3 6a
T. Taylor (unseconded), 1/9/94.
The thin flakey line immediately left of Bronco. Thin strenuous layaways to a wide niche, then finish easily up the wall

BRONCO ** VS 4c
K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 7/5/77.
There are two corners to the left of the wide crack. Bronco is the leftmost. Delightful climb on sound rock. Crux at 3m.

THE DURANGO KID ** E1 5b
C. Torrans, C. Sheridan, 5/10/85.
The groove right of Bronco. Excellent climbing, low in the grade, good introduction to the E1s. Start just left of the wide crack. Crux at 2m.

BATMAN LEAVES GOTHAM CITY HVS 5a
A. & P. McFarlane, September 1988.
Takes the crack and arête immediately left of Maverick.

MAVERICK S
K. Higgs (solo) May 1977.
Start at the off-width crack and finish up the corner.

Mental Block

MENTAL BLOCK VS 4c
G. Moss, D. Collie, 18/6/85.
The vertical crack on the front of the buttress. Finish as for Maverick.

AN MHÉAR FHADA * S 3c
D. Somers (solo), May 1977.
After a steep start a pleasant romp up the ramp on the right-hand side of the buttress. Go up and left at the overhang.

RYAN'S CRACK * VS 4c
T. Ryan, May 1977.
The cracks in the smooth steep wall.

RYAN'S GROOVE * HVS 5a
T. Ryan, May 1977.
The crack which widens to a chimney on the right-hand side of the wall.

HOWARD'S ROUTE E1 5c
H. Hebblethwaite (solo), 26/10/85.
Takes the double thin cracks on the edge of the prow.

RIDDLEY WALKER VS 4c
R. Higgins, G. Moss, 18/6/85.
Climbs the flared groove on the front of the prow.

COAKLEY'S HAMMER ** VD
R. Higgins, L. Blood, 18/6/85.
This superb little route takes the right side of the prow on good jugs.

SOFT OPTION * HS 4b
D. Walsh, S. Young, 4/6/85.
On the shattered wall just right of the prow there is a sentry box. Gain this from the left and finish straight up.
Direct start * HVS 5a
C. Torrans (solo), 15/7/85.
Climbs the crescent crack to the sentry box.

BURNET ROSE * HS 4b
G. Moss, V. Kelly, 18/8/85.
From a triangular recess climb the vertical crack above.

WEST COAST COOLER * HVS 5a
V. Kelly, G. Moss, D. Doyle, 17/8/85.
Open delicate climbing, low in the grade. Takes the faint crack starting at 3m.

YELLOW SUBMARINE VS 4b
L. Blood, T. O Connor, 18/8/85.
Climb the groove, crux at 3m.

GRACE O MALLEY ** E1 5b
C. Sheridan, J. Flanagan, 15/9/85.
Good crack climbing. Follow the curving crack, crux at half height.

GREAT WESTERN ** E1 5c
C. Torrans, C. Sheridan, 26/10/85.
Terrific climbing with a jug-filled finish around the overhang. Climb the corner, difficult move to reach crack, out left at overhang.

Lone Ranger

LONE RANGER * HVS 5a
T. Ryan, K. Higgs, May 1977.
Climb cracks to the overhangs. Escape right.

GOLD FINGER HVS 5a
T. Ryan, K. Higgs, May 1977.
Follow the crack to the right-hand overhang and escape through a notch, some loose rock.

THRILLER HVS 5a
D.Smyth, J.Colandairaj, P.Connally, 17/7/2009.
Takes the crack line and roof between Goldfinger and Shakey Flakes, a handy kneebar at the roof lets you check what blocks are solid to pull through it on!

SHAKEY FLAKES VS 4c
A. & P. McFarlane, September 1988.
Takes the rightmost crack system on the Far North Buttress.

North Buttress

About 50m south of Far North Buttress the main feature is a distinct V-groove on the left-hand side.

A FOSSIL IN MY PRIME HVS 5a
Dominic Lee.(solo) 30th July 2008.
Climbs the rib just left of Lie Detector

LIE DETECTOR * VS 4c
L. Blood, G. Moss, D. Walsh, 18/6/85.
Takes the V-groove. The crux is gaining the groove.

REEF ENCOUNTER ** E4 6b
Dominic Lee, Nathan Lee, 30th July 2008.
Brilliant climbing, tackling the cracked rib just left of Billy Muggins.

BILLY MUGGINS ** E3 5c
D. O Sullivan, J. Dugdale, 30/5/92.
The buttress right of Lie Detector exhibits a striking water worn line. Start 4m right of Lie Detector. Climb easily to a series of vertical flakes/thin crack (wires). From the rightmost flake move up to gain jugs. Climb boldly to a rest and friend placements at the second horizontal break. Finish directly. Brilliant.

JCB D
P. Turley (solo), 27/10/85.
Start 6m right of the bottomless chimney. Climb the obvious easy-angled corner to a grass ledge. Scramble to the top.

BLUESKIES HVS 5a
P. Turley, M. Rea, 29/10/85.
Start about 14m right of bottomless chimney in a shallow recess bounded by two cracks. (1) Follow the right crack, crux at 4m. Gain the wider crack, then move up the slabby wall to the left to a grass ledge and belay. (2) Continue up the easy crack in the head wall.

SLOTH D
P. Turley (solo) 27/10/85.
Climb the easy-angled corner right of the arête. From the grass ledge move left and up.

DELICATESSEN S
P. Turley (solo) 29/10/85.
Climb over hollow-sounding flakes to reach a corner on the right. Climb this to a grass ledge and finish up the big chimney.

North Central Buttress

An extensive area of good solid rock 50m south of North Buttress.

RIFFRAFF * HVS 5a
C. Sheridan, C. Torrans, 26/10/85.
Takes the left-facing corner starting at 4m above the ground. Interesting climbing with an exposed crux at the overhang.

BLUEBIRD ** HVS 5a
K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 7/5/77.
Excellent sustained climbing. Start below the crack. Move right and then left to its base. Finish up the crack.

TROUBLE CHILD HVS 5a
K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 7/5/77.
Right-trending crack, 3m right of Bluebird.

THE QUIET CLAM ** 20m E5 6a
Dominic Lee, Nathan Lee, 9th August 2010.
Steep climbing taking the central line of North Buttress direct via a crack and hanging flakes. Finish up the corner above.

FOSSIL FUEL ** 20m E6 6b
Dominic Lee, Nathan Lee, 9th August 2010.
Climbs the incision left of Hard Tack, gaining it directly via flakes and undercuts. Continue up the water-worn groove above the break to join and finish up The Quiet Clam.

HARD TACK * E1 5c
C. Torrans, C. Sheridan, 27/10/85.
Strange jamming sequence to get into the pod. The route does continue to the top of the crag but it's best to abseil off from the fixed point.

GOOD CRACK * VS 4c
C. Torrans, I. Rea, 29/10/85.
Nice climbing on firm rock. The crack is not as wide as it looks. Abseil off.

Central Buttress

Easily recognised by the small clump of trees and a sheep pen slightly to its right. The biggest of the crags with a fine main wall. The routes are described in relation to a small tree beside the off-width crack of Cromwell.

SLI NA FIRINNE HVS 5a
C. Sheridan, C. Torrans, 5/5/96.
This route takes the second crack left of the small tree which runs into a small overhang. Climb the crack and pass the overhang on the right to reach a grassy ramp. Continue up the awkward crack above. Treat the rock with care.

PRAMALAMADINGDONG * E2 5c
C. Torrans, D. O Connell, September 1991.
A good route which takes the crack just to the left of the small tree. Climb up the crack to a break and traverse left past a tree to a ledge. The going gets sweaty on the thin crack which leads to the top. There is a stake up on the right for belaying.

THE NEW HEATHENS * E3 5c
C. Torrans, S. McEvoy, September 1991.
A bold start leads to a good crack to finish. The route climbs the wall just left of the small tree. Gain the flakes just right of the crack and follow these rightwards to the top of the right-hand crack. Move slightly left to the bottom of another crack and a good thread. Climb the crack above with increasing difficulty. Belay on the stake.

CROMWELL E3 5c
C. Torrans, D. O Sullivan, October 1991.
Low in the grade and enjoyable, so a good one to push it out (or hold it back). The climb takes the wide left-facing crack which runs from beside the tree up and over the break and bulge to reach a dog-leg crack, all quite sustained. Follow the doggy's crack to the top and tie yourself to the stake.

HINTS AND ALLEGATIONS * E3 6a
C. Torrans, D. O Sullivan, 7/9/86.
A technical and strenuous route with reasonable protection. The climb follows the light-coloured stain in the middle of Central Buttress. Climb easily over a bulge to a short groove. Up this to a sloping ledge. Move right and gain the top of a flake. The short crack on the left leads to a huge hidden jug and a horizontal break. Continue up the crack above (crux) with difficult finger jamming to a jug on the left. Continue with difficulty to a break and follow the crack to easy ground, exiting right.

HY-BRASIL ** E1 5b
C. Sheridan, I. Rea, C. Torrans, 27/10/85.
Superb climbing on excellent rock with the crux at the right place at the final overhang. Start at the sloping ledge at the clean wall on the right side of the buttress. The route takes the corner with the small tree stump and the crack above. (Re-cleaned by Ronan Keane, July 2011.)

NEBRASKA ** E2 5c
C. Torrans, C. Sheridan, 27/10/85.
An excellent pitch, strenuous and technical with good protection. The crux is at the thin crack which goes left and then right near the top. Climb the wide crack which runs up to form the right side of the big flake shared by Hy Brasil. Continue up the crack to the overhang and gain the crack which runs up left. Climb this to the top.

South Central Buttress

An extensive area immediately right of Central Buttress, bounded on the left by the small clump of trees and on the right by the descent ramp.

FREELANCE ** VS 4c
G. Smyth, D. McMahon, 6/7/85.
The right-hand of two prominent corners. The crux is gaining the bottom of the corner (awkward).

South Buttress

Separated from South Central Buttress by the descent ramp and bounded on the right by an old wall.

Murroughkilly South Buttress

DISTRUST THE STARS ** HVS 5a
D. Walsh, S. Young, 4/6/85.
Excellent climbing on sound rock. High in the grade. Takes the left-facing stacked corners just right of the descent ramp. Exit left around the overhang at the top (crux just below the overhang).

DELIVERANCE * E3 6a
D. O Sullivan, C. Torrans, September 1986.
Steep interesting climbing up the right wall of Distrust The Stars. Start 5m right of this route at a short leftward trending crack. Follow this to a ledge. Place protection in the crack on the right and then traverse left to a line of flakes. Follow the flakes to a jug and then launch up to gain the horizontal break. Traverse left and finish up the twin cracks. The belay is well back in some clints.

UPLIFT * VS 4c
D. McMahon, G. Smyth, 7/7/85.
Well protected and steeper than it looks.

RAIN STOPS SE HS 4b
M. Keyes, B. Thorn, 3/8/85.
A white, north-facing corner.

ABOUT TIME TOO * VS 4c
P. Ewen, K. Higgs, June 1977.
Take the right-hand of the two pods. Gain the crack and exit left through the wide chimney.

RAIN DANCE VS
K. Higgs, P. Ewen, June 1977.
Just right of the pod there is a flared groove and crack leading to an overhang. Exit right around the overhang.

WOUNDED KNEE HVS 5a
M. Keyes, D. Somers, August 1989.
Start at the crackline between Rain Dance and Land Of The Free. Follow the crackline until it peters out at two-thirds height. Climb the wall and slab above and finish up the top corner of Land Of The Free. The hollow flake at 4m adds some interest.

LAND OF THE FREE ** VS 4c
D. Walsh, D. McMahon, 6/7/85.
The left-hand of the two cracks. Climb this to a slab. Mantelshelf (thread runner) and traverse left and finish up the crack in the corner.

HOME OF THE BRAVE ** HVS 5a
D. Walsh, G. Smyth, 7/7/85.
Start just left of the north-facing corner up dubious rock for 3m to the base of the magnificent layback crack. Up this for 7m to a slab. Mantelshelf and move right (delicate crux). Finish up the clean corner.

EMIGRANT'S LEGACY S
M. Keyes, B. Thorn, 3/8/85.
The north-facing corner just right of Home of the Brave. The two routes finish together.

Far South Buttress

Easily identified by a wall running up to its base and a nose at 10m, prominent in profile.

HIGH DUDGEON ** HVS 5a
D. Walsh, S. Barrett, C. O Higgins, 14/9/84.
A north-facing corner 20m left of the wall. Strenuous and sustained after the ledge at 3m. Well protected.

FRESH FIELDS ** VS 4c
D. Walsh, C. Brogan, June 1984.
A Y-shaped corner 10m left of the wall. The crux is the leftward traverse at half height to gain the left-hand corner. Trust the small hold just around the corner.

SQUATTING E2 6a
D. O Sullivan, J. Dugdale, 30/5/92.
Takes the left nose direct. Start 3m left of Tiger's Tail. Hard climbing up the sickle-shaped crack gains the jug at its apex. Climb directly up to the terrace. Move left onto the nose and finish up the left-facing groove.

TIGER'S TAIL ** VS 4c
D. Walsh, C. O Higgins, S. Barrett, 14/9/85.
The left-hand nose. Start just right of the wall and climb the chimney. Step left and gain the nose by swinging on a jug. Finish unexpectedly up the right-hand crack (strenuous).

TANTRUM ** E4 6b
D. O Sullivan, J. Dugdale, 30/5/92.
An obvious challenge offering fierce bouldery climbing. Start 2m left of Lion's Mouth. Crank the thin crack, passing a peg runner en route, to a more classic finish up a left-facing corner and continuation crack.

LION'S MOUTH ** HVS 5a
D. Walsh, C. O Higgins, S. Barrett, 14/9/85.
A photogenic route. The right-hand nose is reached by a strenuous chimney (crux). Climb through a notch in the overhang, up and out onto the nose on the left. Make a dynamic mantelshelf and finish up a rightward crack above

EYE OF THE TIGER ** E1 5b
R. Higgins, D. Walsh, 18/6/85.
The rightward-trending crack just right of Lion's Mouth. Sustained and well protected. Belay on the grass ramp. Continue easily up the ramp on the left and the corner.

Afghan Walls

150m past/South of Eye of the Tiger there is a large buttress with numerous shallow corners and cracks. There is a steep ascent/descent route on the right which has a move of D. For cliff top belays careful scrutiny of two stone 'altars' near the descent will reveal good nut belays.

HOMO SOVIETICUS HVS 5a

Gerry Galligan. Barry Watts, 4/9/2021.

Start just left of FLAKE RATTLE AND ROAR, climb the steep wide crack to a grassy ledge, continue up the groove above (crux).

FLAKE RATTLE AND ROAR HS 4a
M. Keyes, L. Yallop, B. McNelis, July 1988.
This route follows the first series of overlapping flakes on the broken wall on the far right of Far South Buttress. Exit carefully left at the top.

GO TELL THE MUJAHIDEEN 20m HS
Gerry Galligan, Colm Peppard, 17/9/2017.
Takes the wall and crack 2m left of the second corner

SEE THE YOUNG RUSSIANS, HIGH ON OUR GEAR 20m S 3c
Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 2/7/2017.
Climb the second corner, crux is in the first few metres. Enjoyable.

DURAND LINE 20m HS 4b
Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 20/5/2017.
Takes the continuous crack in the smooth slab right of the second corner. The steep wall higher up forms the crux. A good companion piece to Bakhtar Radio.

THE SILK ROAD 20m HS 4b
Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 17/9/2017
2m right of Durand Line there is a wide crack formed by a flake at 8m Climb a short corner at ground level to climb this, continue up a more broken easy corner to finish.

BAKHTAR RADIO 20m HS 4b
Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 15/4/2017.
Halfway along the base of the wall there is a triangular block on the ground and a recess opposite it. Climb the wall 1m to the left of this recess to join the crack that continues to the top.

FLAMING JEZAIL 20m VS 4c
Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 2/7/2017.
4m right of BAKHTAR RADIO climb the crack and corner to a grassy ledge at half hright, take the easier cracked left wall to more broken ground and the top. The crux is in the first few metres and is well protected.

KHYBER CRACK 15m S
Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 15/4/2017.
25m further on/South from BAKHTAR RADIO there is a broken crack before the descent. Follow this pleasant well protected line to a ledge, up crack on the left to finish.

KANDAHAR 20m S
Peter Wood, Stuart Kennedy, 15/4/2017.
Start beneath a small niche. Climb to the niche, and continue upwards to the leftmost of two cracks above. Deviation for gear may be needed.

THE FALL OF KABUL HS 4b

Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 3/9/2021.

Start at the obvious crack below and right of KANDAHAR, climb this to a grassy ledge and follow the leftward trending line to finish as for KANDAHAR.

INSURGENCY CRACK 20m VS 4c
Stuart Kennedy, Peter Wood, 15/4/2017.
Follow the deep dog-legged crack to the left of MOAB.

MOAB 20m HS 4b
Peter Wood, Stuart Kennedy, 15/4/2017.
Start just to the right of Insurgency crack. Climb to the small ledge, and continue via the crack and small pinnacle to the top

NORTHERN ALLIANCE 20m VS 5a
Stuart Kennedy, Peter Wood, 15/4/2017.
Start up the steep crack to the right of the arete following it trending right to the top.

The Afghanistan escarpment extends to the right, beyond a broken field wall running perpendicular to the escarpment and directly towards the sea. Otherwise, closer to the Khyber Pass. To date, three routes have been recorded here.

WAKHAN CORRIDOR HS
Gerry Galligan, Stuart Kennedy, 12/5/2019.
Above a niche is a groove leading to a left-facing corner. Continue up, trending right, following a disjointed crack-line. Check loose holds.

RUSSIAN ROULETTE E1 5a
Stuart Kennedy, Gerry Galligan, 12/5/2019.
Halfway along the escarpment, adjacent to a wide, left-facing chimney, is a crack line. Follow this crack to a stance below a bulging wall. Continue to the top. Sustained, with good protection.

JIRGA VD

Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 28/4/2024.

20m right of RUSSIAN ROULETTE there is an alcove, climb the left hand groove in the alcove.

PASHTUN BLOOD FEUD HS 4b

Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 4/9/2021.

Climb the right hand groove in the alcove.

Upper Tier

Contrary to the information in previous guidebooks the climbs in this area are worthwhile, are on good rock and have excellent protection, the view is fab and it can be a sanctuary from midge. These climbs are adjacent to a large open air water tank/trough which is East of and above Central Buttress.

WHERE'S THE LIFEGUARD? S

Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 3/9/2021.

Start 2m left of TWO TRICK PONY, climb the slab diagonally rightwards to gain the grassy ledge as for TTP, traverse left for 3m and climb the short wide crack to another ledge, finish up the slabby rib above.

TWO TRICK PONY HS 4b
David Brosnan, Barry Watts, 21/4/2018.
Climb a left facing corner and slab 5m left of MET EIREANN to the grassy ledge, finish steeply up the hand crack with the help of good holds on the right hand side.

STORMY DANIELS S
Barry Watts, Clement Saas, 5/5/2018.
Climb the slab and thin crack right 3m left of MET EIREANN to the grassy ledge. Finish up the wide crack.

STORM STRUCK VD
Barry Watts, Clement Saas, 6/5/2018.
Climb as for MET EIREANN to the grassy ledge. Continue up the pleasant corner crack 2m to the left.

MET EIREANN VD
Barry Watts, David Brosnan, 21/4/2018.
Start 5m left of the obvious chimney, climb a grassy crack (solo'd by Eve the dog soon after FA) to a ledge and continue up crack and slab, trend left for the final few m's as the head wall has some nice incut holds.

HERE COMES SUMMER * VD
G. Moss, D. Doyle, 19/8/1985.
Start 2m left of the obvious chimney. Climb thin crack to grassy ledge, then the left-hand crack in the wall above, trending left to overhang.

Variation finish; THIS AIN'T SUMMER S
Clement Saas, Barry Watts, 6/5/2018.
From the highest ledge at 2/3 height trend diagonally rightwards to the top.

LÁ na SCOLLAIB * S
G. Moss, 18/8/1985.
Climb the chimney.

RAINBOW WARRIOR ** HS
D. Doyle, V. Kelly, 18/8/1985.
3m right of the chimney. Climb the crack, starting at a leaning block.

LÁ na GAOITHE VD
V. Kelly, G. Moss, 18/8/1985.
Start 3m right of Rainbow Warrior, at the foot of a thin crack just right of the south-facing corner. Traverse in left, then climb corner.

CORA ** 20m S
Barry Watts, Ian McLoughlin, 17/9/2017.
Start 2m right of LÁ na GAOITHE at a wide crack slanting to the right. Traverse across to attain the central cracks in the smooth wall to the top.

WET EIREANN 20m S
Barry Watts, David Brosnan, 21/4/2018.
Start 3m right of CORA, climb a thin crack to the grassy ledge in a bay, continue up the left hand corner crack over a slight bulge, follow the block filled crack line rightwards to the top.

SCATTERED OUTBREAKS OF SUNSHINE 15m HS
Colm Peppard, Gerry Galligan, 17/9/2017.
Takes the steep clean right angle corner 12m right of Cora where there is a deep inset arm sized crack which provides great protection.

RUSTY'S RAMP S
Barry Watts, Clement Saas, 5/5/2018.
5m right of SCATTERED OUTBREAKS OF SUNSHINE, the wide grassy ledge begins again. Climb a left facing cracked arete to gain this ledge, continue up the right trending crack and ramp to a rock ledge then trend left to the top.

SHAMROCK VIBES S
Barry Watts, Clement Saas, 5/5/2018.
Climb the cracked recess 3m right of RUSTY'S RAMP to a grassy ledge, the grass cranking requires great commitment. Climb the right hand side of the recess to a rocky ledge then trend left to the top.

ALLEZ STRASBOURG HVS 5a
Clement Saas, Barry Watts, 5/5/2018.
10m right of SHAMROCK VIBES climb a thin shallow crack to the grassy ledge. Continue up strenuous thin crack in the wall above.

TITAN CRACK S

Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 23rd June 2023.

Start 15m right of ALLEZ STRASBOURG, climb the short wall to the mid way ledge. Move right and climb the wide crack on the upper wall using a boulder on the right to stsrt.

BRUNO THE BRAWLER VD

Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 23rd June 2023.

10m to the right of TITAN CRACK the short lower tier of rock becomes a grass slope and there is a recess with three crack lines above it in the upper tier. Climb the middle crack in this upper tier to a shelf below the steep headwall traverse left to finish.

Doughbraneen Summit South

There is a South facing cliff due South of the Doughbraneen Cairn which is further East and uphill of the Upper Tier.