Difference between revisions of "Downpatrick Head"
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Iain Miller (talk | contribs) m (The wording was wrong on Mick's route. He sent a few picyures to clarify) |
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Taken from New Climbs 1991. | Taken from New Climbs 1991. | ||
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| + | The stack became disconnected from the headland in 1393 and the fort on top has been isolated since then. | ||
'''Doonbristy''' 42m MXS<br> | '''Doonbristy''' 42m MXS<br> | ||
''M. Fowler, N. Duggan, S. Sustad May 1990.''<br> | ''M. Fowler, N. Duggan, S. Sustad May 1990.''<br> | ||
| − | Start at the landward side of the ledge system at 15m on the west face. The route follows the | + | Start at the landward side of the ledge system at 15m on the west face. The route follows the landward arete of the stack, mainly on the left-hand side. <br> |
1/. 18m 5a/b Climb up right-wards over an interesting overhang (on good holds) to gain a shallow groove in a band of lighter coloured rock. Climb this to an excellent ledge on the arete.<br> | 1/. 18m 5a/b Climb up right-wards over an interesting overhang (on good holds) to gain a shallow groove in a band of lighter coloured rock. Climb this to an excellent ledge on the arete.<br> | ||
| − | 2/. 24m 5a/b Climb onto a projecting ledge above the stance and gain a much smaller projecting ledge above. A short wall leads to a good ledge and easier (but loose) ground leading to the top. | + | 2/. 24m 5a/b Climb onto a projecting ledge above the stance and gain a much smaller projecting ledge above. A short wall leads to a good ledge and easier (but loose) ground leading to the top. |
'''Chaos Theory''' 42m XS<br>''Iain Miller, Paulina Kaniszewska 28/08/16''<br>There is a huge non tidal ledge system at base (approx 10m above the sea) of the west face.<br>1: 18m 4b From the seaward end of the walkable ledge make a couple of moves up to the grim looking overhang. After a couple of ups and downs hand traverse left above the void to the sanctuary of a large non tidal ledge. Climb up and over the steps above and crawl through the birded gap above.<br>2: 24m 5a/b At the far left of the huge ledge climb the well protected groove with a hard move onto the ledge system above. Run it out forever (8mish) to a small crack in suspect rock above. Climb grooves and ledge systems above to finish up a superb layback corner and awful chimney above. | '''Chaos Theory''' 42m XS<br>''Iain Miller, Paulina Kaniszewska 28/08/16''<br>There is a huge non tidal ledge system at base (approx 10m above the sea) of the west face.<br>1: 18m 4b From the seaward end of the walkable ledge make a couple of moves up to the grim looking overhang. After a couple of ups and downs hand traverse left above the void to the sanctuary of a large non tidal ledge. Climb up and over the steps above and crawl through the birded gap above.<br>2: 24m 5a/b At the far left of the huge ledge climb the well protected groove with a hard move onto the ledge system above. Run it out forever (8mish) to a small crack in suspect rock above. Climb grooves and ledge systems above to finish up a superb layback corner and awful chimney above. | ||
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Revision as of 21:01, 29 August 2025
Taken from New Climbs 1991.
The stack became disconnected from the headland in 1393 and the fort on top has been isolated since then.
Doonbristy 42m MXS
M. Fowler, N. Duggan, S. Sustad May 1990.
Start at the landward side of the ledge system at 15m on the west face. The route follows the landward arete of the stack, mainly on the left-hand side.
1/. 18m 5a/b Climb up right-wards over an interesting overhang (on good holds) to gain a shallow groove in a band of lighter coloured rock. Climb this to an excellent ledge on the arete.
2/. 24m 5a/b Climb onto a projecting ledge above the stance and gain a much smaller projecting ledge above. A short wall leads to a good ledge and easier (but loose) ground leading to the top.
Chaos Theory 42m XS
Iain Miller, Paulina Kaniszewska 28/08/16
There is a huge non tidal ledge system at base (approx 10m above the sea) of the west face.
1: 18m 4b From the seaward end of the walkable ledge make a couple of moves up to the grim looking overhang. After a couple of ups and downs hand traverse left above the void to the sanctuary of a large non tidal ledge. Climb up and over the steps above and crawl through the birded gap above.
2: 24m 5a/b At the far left of the huge ledge climb the well protected groove with a hard move onto the ledge system above. Run it out forever (8mish) to a small crack in suspect rock above. Climb grooves and ledge systems above to finish up a superb layback corner and awful chimney above.
