Oughtdarra

Introduction

The townland of Oughtdarra is an area riven with limestone cliffs, canyons, vegetated thickets and limestone pavements. The best approach to the climbing areas is to walk inland (Eastwards) from the car park/lay by at Ailladie over limestone pavements and rock steps, a 15 minute walk (keeping a dry stone wall on you left) should bring you to the Northern Buttress. From here it is best to walk South along the escarpment to reach the other areas. For Leacht na nAmadan there is roadside parking space 2km's further on/North from the Ailladie car park/lay by, the spaces are just before and 100m's after a farm gate on the East/Right hand side of the road. Other possibilities may look tantalisingly close on a map but thick deep vegetation and canyons will make progress slow and tiring. It has taken some parties up to 1.5 hours to reach the Lysacht’s Cave area in this way!

View of Northern Buttress from Central Area

Northern Buttress

This wall faces south and runs west to east, with routes going left to right.

SPICY 10m HVS 5a
Stephen McGowan, John Howard, March 2009.
Climb the arête and crack 3m left of Teflon Left Hand.

TEFLON LEFT HAND 10m VS 4c
Cliff Baxter, July 2005.
Climb crack 1m left of Teflon Crack

TEFLON CRACK 10m S
Cliff Baxter, July 2005.
Climb offwidth using wide bridging, Hard at the start.

THE SOUND OF ONE LEG BRIDGING 9m HS
Dermot O'Dwyer, Petra Tolarová 15/04/2017.
Climb the wide crack in the middle to the ledge. Climb up the centre of the wall above to a thin crack.

A BECKONING CRACK 9m VD
Petra Tolarová, Dermot O'Dwyer 15/04/2017.
Start just right of blocks resting against arête where dry stone wall meets the buttress. Climb to ledge at 3m, then up the crack on left-hand wall.

The next few routes take the crack lines on the short buttress to the left of the descent ramp.

GRACEFUL ELEPHANT 8m HS
K.Sloan, E.Prendergast. Spring 2013.
Climb is located behind a pillar. Climb the wall to a thin crack at half height.

OGONNELLOE BURGER 8m VD
Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin 17/09/2017
Located behind the pillar. Climb the crack from bottom to top using the pillar to bridge. Not climbed yet without using the pillar.

PETIT CAFÉ 6m VDiff
Petra Tolarová, Dermot O'Dwyer 15/04/2017.
Climb is on the wall facing into the descent gully, climb crack with small ledges at the start

Right of the descent gully there are two corners.

WILL IT GO? 14m VD
K.Sloan, L.Calnan. Spring 2013
Start 2m's left of Hulalooper climb up open corner stepping left to ledge, move left up a broken corner to finish.

Direct finish
HS B Watts C Rice 6/9/2015.
Climb directly up fist sized crack.

HULALOOPER 14m VD Follow the pleasant cracked ramp 3m's left of Arnhem

Moving along brings you to the cleared area of rock. The next routes take right trending ramps and steep walls.

ARNHEM 16m VS 4c
Paul Daly, July 2005.
5 m's right of the descent ramp, climb superb flakey crack to a ramp leading rightwards at two third height. Ascend ramp and groove to finish.

Direct Start Peter Owens, Marcin Ostasz, May 2007. HVS 5b 2m left of Ballynalacken, a short groove leads to a ramp below a nice looking finger crack. Climb this and pull up onto the upper ramp of Arnhem. Finish as for that route.

BALLYNALACKEN 20m VS 4c
Peter Owens, Marcin Ostasz, May 2007.
Follow the ramp system, passing a section of ivy to a high corner and stance. From here climb directly to the top.

SCATTERY LEDGE 18m HS
Dermot Shiels, Brian McCarthy August 2011.
This is a nice route similar to but easier then Ballynalacken. Climb corners and ramps trending right to a big ledge. Bridge up the steep corner to the top.

I WANNA BE ADORED 18m E1 5b
Stuart Kennedy, Gerry Galligan, 11/5/2019
Same start as Free Radical, up a short right-trending, grassy ramp. Halfway along break left up yellow lichenous wall - the broken groove and spike. Continue to the vegetated ledge. Move up corner overhang to finish.

FREE RADICAL 20m VS 4c
Gerry Galligan, Niamh McGreen, 16/4/2017.
Takes the high steep corner 5 m's right of Scattery Ledge. Climb the pock-marked slab to gain a grassy ledge. Negotiate your way through the right-trending ramp of vegetation to gain the base of the clean corner crack. Move steeply up the crack to finish.

ROCKET MAN 16m S
Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 15/9/2017.
8m right of free radical (and the jungle) there is a large protrouding flake at one third height, follow the right ward trending line of cracks and ledges past good holds on the flake/rocket, climb directly upwards to finish over a small overhang.

ASTRONOMY DOMINE 15m VS 4c
Peter Wood, Gerry Galligan October 2011.
Start in a niche, 3 m's to the left of Emily's Route. Climb the right sloping crack above, and follow the crack above as it trends more vertically upwards. Finish directly above the start of Emily's route.

EMILY'S ROUTE 16m HS
Emma Glanville, July 2005.
On the right side of the buttress to the right of a heavily ivy clad area, there is a protrouding wall which is scooped in the centre. Climb this scoop and trend rightwards to finish.

BALLYGOBACKWARDS 16m HS
Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 15/9/2017.
Takes the wall and cracks right of Emily’s Routes. Start just left of the gully and climb diagonally leftwards to a prickly ledge, move right up a shallow corner to the top

The gully to the right has been climbed by C Peppard and B Watts on 15/9/2017 at S, The climbing on it is a bit dull and it still has some big dubious blocks in it, Move on!

There is a cleaned line of cracks and flakes on the clean wall left of Meridian but mid way up they feel loose and sound hollow.

MERIDIAN 12m E3 5c **
Dermot Shiels, Brian McCarthy, August 2011 (On Sight).
The route takes the striking crack line between the grassy descent gully and Emily’s Route. Use good hand holds and a bomber wire to protect the mantelshelf onto the ledge at the base of the thin layback crack. Good cams protect the base of the crack and micro wires protect the rest. Use undercuts to start climbing the crack and footholds on the left wall. Bridge and layback up the thin crack. Exit right. Great route

THE RISING 20m HS 4b
Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Niamh McGreen, 16/4/2017.
Traces a line on the right edge of the Meridian wall. Start 5m's right of Meridian, below a left-facing, right-trending, corner-crack. Climb up to a grassy ledge. Move up the slab on your left by the thin crack for 4m's. Traverse right to a ledge and climb the blocky face above via cracks and small ledges.

100 m's further east and across the grassy gully the escarpment faces west.

Builders Buttress

This wall faces west and runs north to south, with routes going left to right or southwards.

SITE PASS 10m VS 4b/4c
Radu Toma, Barry Watts, 26th September 2010.
Start up a steep thin crack, after about 5 m's (before the going gets grassy) traverse 1 m right and climb the cracked wall to the top

SKIP FOR HIRE 10m HS 4b
Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 16/9/2017.
Takes the steep crack line 2m right of Site Pass.

RUBBLE ROULETTE 10m HS 4b
Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 16/9/2017.
Takes the steep crack line 2m right of Skip for Hire.

GROUNDWORKS 10m S
Barry Watts, Radu Toma, 26th September 2010.
About 5 m's right and downhill from SITE PASS there is an obvious interesting groove system, climb the left hand side and veer right at the samll tree root below the top.

CONSTRUCTION SITE 10m VS 4c/5a
Radu Toma, Barry Watts, 26th September 2010.
Start 2 m's right of GROUNDWORKS, Follow the obvious thin crack line which features a strenous steep start.

BUCKAROO 10m HS 4c
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 16th August 2015.
Just right of Construction Site there is a small overhang at 2 m's height. Start at the right hand side of this overhang 3 m's further right of the last route and pull up strenuously onto a narrow ledge. Continue more easily up the cracked slab, for added interest veer left along the edge to finish.

5m's further on there is

Goat Buttress

TRIBAL GOATS 10m HS 4a
Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 20th July 2014.
10m's right of Construction Site and to the right of the hanging slab and overhangs there are two slim cracks side by side. Start at the left-hand crack, to under the overlap and traverse right to the corner. continuing up the corner to the top.

BROKEBANK MOUNTAIN 10m HS 4a
Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 20th July 2014.
10m's right of Construction Site and to the right of the hanging slab and overhangs there are two slim cracks side by side, follow the right-hand crack line directly to the top.

ACTING THE GOAT 10m D
Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 20th July 2014.
3m's right of Brokebank Mountain climb the cracked wall to a ledge and scramble leftwards along this to finish.

About 100 m's further south there is Canyon Buttress.

Canyon Buttress

ROCKERY 10m D
Mark Standbridge, 18th August 2013.
In the central part of the wall there are three parallel crack lines. This takes the left-hand one. Climb the twin cracks direct.

OUT ON THE WESTERN PLAIN HS 4b
Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 5/6/2016.
Start just below and right of the flake-sided hanging chimney. Avoid the loose, hanging flake and climb the cracked and featured wall on the right to the top.

PRE OP 13m HS 4a
Rob Mullett, Pat Lombard, 6th July 2014.
2m's left of blade runner start at the twin cracks following the main crack line up and then trend left towards the capstone. Take care with loose rocks.

BLADE RUNNER 12m S 4a
Mark Standbridge, Rob Mullett, 18th August 2013.
This route takes the crack and left hand side of the sharp-angled arête directly above. Take care with the loose ‘paving slab’ about half way up the route.

GRAND CANYON 15m VD *
Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 20th July 2014.
Right of the Blade Runner arete there is another obvious arête, Climb the clean cracked wall 1 m left of this arête directly to the top.

BONANZA 15m S
Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 20th July 2014.
A companion piece for Grand Canyon. Starts as for Grand Canyon but takes the next right-hand corner. Climb this directly to the top.

Walking from here for 300m southwards, the escarpment descreases and increases in height at a steep unclimbed wall, further on there are lines of weakness.

Central Area

THERE'S NOTHING LEFT 16m VS 4c
Malcolm O'Beirn, Peter Owens, May 2007.
Start 3m left of NUTSTOPPER in an alcove. Climb up to the apex of the alcove and mount the bulge. From here go straight up. Starts good but be careful with some loose rock higher up.

THERE'S NOTHING RIGHT 17m S 4a
Rob Mullett, Niamh McGreen, 29th Sep 2012.
Start 3m left of NUTSTOPPER in an alcove at the same point as THERE'S NOTHING LEFT. Climb up to the alcove until the apex but deviate diagonally right along the obvious crack line and then follow this straight up to the finish.

NUTSTOPPER 16m HS 4b
Brian Callaghan, Sadhbh Baxter, 11th July 1999.
Crack 2m left of "Sweep" chimney. Up crack to ledge at 2m. Left around slightly overhanging bulge. Up broken crack to finish.

SWEEP 9m S 4b
Brian Callaghan, Sadhbh Baxter, 11th July 1999.
Chimney 8m left of the alcove. Up back of chimney, onto arête at top. Easy finish

ORLA's CROSS 10m VS
Malcolm O'Beirn.
Next obvious crackline 4m R of Sweep - looks a bit grassy (04/2013 - ivy on the top part masking a crack). Tougher than it looks. Sustained climbing, till reaching the grassy ledge, half way.

TWO WATER MELONS 10m VS 4c
Cliff Baxter, Sadbh Baxter, July 2005.
Climb the crack 2m left of Bob Marley. Bold start, with good protection, so use it.

BOB MARLEY 10m HVS 5b
Paul Daly, July 2005.
A stern test in hand jamming which climbs the first crack on the left wall of the alcove

HANDS OFF 16m HS 4c
Brian Callaghan, Sadhbh Baxter, 11th July 1999.
Large alcove 10m north-left of Daisy Days. Climb between the two right trending cracks on the back wall. Step right at 3/4 height ledge to finish up corner. Beware of loose rock.

Variation: finish directly up face from 3/4 height ledge. (SB, toprope)

ONE FOR THE ROAD 16m HS 4b
Niamh McGreen, Rob Mullett, 29th Sept 2012.
Start 1m right of Hands Off below a thin crack curving to the left. Climb this with the help of a good flake on the left. Step slightly left to finish up the short wall.

THEX MHEX HS
Dermot O'Dwyer, Stefan Reiman, Petra Tolarová, 17/04/2017.
Climb obvious crack on left hand side. Finish directly up left-hand side of face above large ledge. Only a little bit spicy.

REX HEX LIZ 15m HS 4b
Marty McCarthy, Valerie Hayes, 5th August 2012.
Start at small grass ramp, 5m left of Daisy Days, directly to and through the vertical crack. Balance, gain large ledge. Finish up corner on right (as for Daisy Days).
Variation: Finish directly up face left of corner.

DAISY DAYS 16m D
Brian Callaghan, Sadhbh Baxter, 11th July 1999.
At southern end of crag, 2m left of where field wall meets crag. Follow obvious left-trending crack onto large ledge at 3/4 height. Up back corner to finish.

The next crag is about 300m south of Daisy Days you pass over a dry stone wall with a cone shaped hill on your right.

An Fear Bréige

This area faces South and is West of Lysacht’s Cave, it is marked by a short buttress with four climbs on the left, there is a short steep gully containing a dry stone wall bordering it on the right. Moving back eestwards along the escarpment for 200m there is a free standing pillar An Fear Bréige which is beneath a large overhang. There was once a large ringfort called Doonannmore perched on top of the cliff.

Routes are listed from left to right West to East.

RAM RAID 10m S
Barry Watts, Paul McCabe, Gerry Galligan, 17/9/2016.
This climb takes a series of steep ledges left of the square overhang. Start at the wide crack and climb steeply to gain the ledge/jammed boulder, finish directly up the thin crack. Avoid the easier lines on the left.

THICKET TO RIDE 10m E1 5c
Peter Owens, Vera Quinlan, August 2006.
The left hand crack

IS THAT IT ? 10m E1 5c
Peter Owens, Vera Quinlan, August 2006.
The right hand crack

COUNTERPOINT 10m E2 6a
Paul Daly, Ronan Keane, 6 October 2012.
Move leftwards to gain the base of the thin Z shaped crack. Move up and leftwards to gain sloping ledge (crux) and thence to top.

DÚN NA SIÓGA 8m S
Paul McCabe, Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 17/9/2016.
Climb the crack 1m right of the dry stone wall in the gully.

FLIGHT RISK 8m S
Barry Watts, Paul McCabe, 17/9/2016.
Climb the thin crack 6m right of DÚN NA SIÓGA, start off a high grassy ledge.

BALLAI NA DOONAUNMORE HS 4b
Gerry Galligan, Paul McCabe, 17/9/2016.
Bridge up between the 6m detached pillar and the right wall, gain the ledge on the right and finish up the cracked wall above.

First ascent of LONE STAR

LONE STAR VS 4c **
Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 5/6/2016.
20m right of Thicket to Ride there is a 6m detached pillar leaning against the rock face. This fine route takes the clean, twin to single, crack line, 5m right of this pillar.

PADDYWHACKERY 12m S
Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 26/9/2015.
20m's left of CHRISTY TURLINGTON and 6m right of a wall there is an overhanging nose of rock. Start to the left of the nose, climb as far as the overhanging corner, Traverse left for 3 metres and finish up the flake crack.

OBAIR NA SIÓGA 10m HS
Paul McCabe, Gerry Galligan, 17/9/2016.
Start as for Paddy Whackery and continue up the overhanging corner.

MATCHMAKER 10m S
Barry Watts, Paul McCabe, Gerry Galligan, 17/9/2016.
Climb the wall and corner 3m's right of Paddywhackery and the nose of rock. Steep start.

CHRISTY TURLINGTON 10m VS 4c
J. Murphy, P. Aylmer-Hall, 3/9/1993.
The crack in the wide corner 30 or 40m's left of Baby Lotion.

BABY LOTION 13m HVS 5a
N. Thompson, P. Aylmer-Hall, 3/9/1993.
Start below the small overhang on the south-facing edge of the pillar (An Fear Breige). Move up and right to the crack to the right of the overhang. Climb this to the top of the pillar and from here it is possible to reach small holds on the large overhanging buttress next to the pillar. Pull up on these and finish up more easily.

200m east of An Fear Breige there is.

Lysacht's Cave area

The highest and oldest developed cliff at Oughtdarra is also the most Southerly, unfortunately the approach route (after passing an Fear Breige) is virtually blocked due to shoulder high vegetation. There was once a large ringfort called Doonannbeg perched on top of the cliff.

TWEAKIN 20m E3 6a
D. O Sullivan, 4/6/1988.
This route climbs the wall and leftward-trending groove left of Plumbline. Start below a short corner 3m left of Plumbline. Climb the corner to a peg. Tweak out left on tinies and then up to reach a ramp. Finish up the groove above.

PLUMBLINE * 20m E1 5b
T. Ryan, K. Higgs, 24/4/1977.
Takes the groove in the middle of the crag with a grassy groove to start. Gain the ledge at 3m and move up to another ledge on the left. Continue up the groove (strenuous) and over the bulge to the ledge. Step right and pull up onto grass.

Direct Finish HVS 5a
N. Diamond, Spring 1987.
From the highest ledge climb directly up the corner to the top instead of stepping right.

WEEVIL 23m HVS 5a
K. Higgs, D. Somers, 30/4/1977.
This route takes the diagonal line 2m right of the central groove. Gain the ledge. Move around the bulge to a small ledge below the overhang then up and across right to the arête. Step down to footholds below a niche. Climb up into the niche to gain a horizontal break. Hand traverse right and pull up onto the ledge (strenuous). Up the corner to the top.

Direct start E1 5c
I. Ryan, 1984.
Climb the steep wall on flaky holds to join Weevil at the end of the traverse below the corner.

ARTFUL DODGER 21m HVS 5a
K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 24/4/1977.
There is a clean overhanging corner about 13m right of Weevil. This route takes the crack and wall 2m left of the corner behind two trees. Climb the wall and crack to a small ledge at 2m. Continue up on pockets (crux) past a holly bush. Painful. Continue rightwards to the top and a block belay.

WAVY GRAVY 21m E2 5c
D. O Sullivan, 4/6/1988.
Strenuous climbing up the obvious corner between Artful Dodger and Busker. Climb the corner for 10m to jugs on the left wall. Mantel the jugs and finish up the crack above.

BUSKER 21m VS 4c
K. Higgs, D. Somers, 30/7/1977.
This climb follows the right edge of the wall 3m right of the corner. Climb up to the ledge on the left. Continue up to the base of a crack (awkward). Climb the crack to the base of the small corner. Climb the corner and steep wall above on good holds to the top.

WALKING THE DOG 21m S 4a
K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 24/7/1977.
There is a short white corner right of Busker. Layback up the crack to a ledge on the left at 10m. Climb the wall to a ledge and bush. Step left and finish up the wall to top.

About 50m right of Lysacht's Cave there is a small buttress, just past a bushy thicket. Just left of an ivy-clad wall there is a cave-like tunnel at ground level. The next route takes the corner immediately right of the cave.

CAVE CANEM 13m S 4b
D. Somers, K. Higgs, 30/4/1977.
Climb up to a stance below the corner until it is possible to pull out left onto the face. Up this to the top.

Leacht na nAmadan

This area is North of Leaba na hAon Bho and further up the same escarpment. This cliff is the closest to the road as the coast road curves inland. There is roadside parking spaces 2km's further on/North from the Ailladie car park/lay by, the spaces are just before and 100m's after a farm gate on the East/Right hand side of the road. Walk through the gate and walk to the brow of the hill and you will spot the escarpment and shortly after you will find a sheltered green valley running parallel and North/South beneath the cliffs.

Amid a jumble of low cliffs and vertical clefts on the far left of the line of cliffs two smooth steep walls come together to make a left facing corner.

Crumlin Wall

EASY PEASY D
Audrey O"Toole, Tom Van Rensburgh, 18th October 2020.
Climb the slabby cracked wall right of the arete

AN GEATA BAN D
Conor Warner, 18th Octoer 2020.
Climb the crack 3 m's left of the corner

Barry Watts, David Brosnan, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O Toole, May 2021.

HUSAVIK D
Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 18th October 2020.
Climb the corner.

CRUMLIN ROAD HS 4b
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 18th October 2020.
Start 3 m"s right of the corner and just left of a broken loose groove, climb the thin left ward trending crack to a small ledge, trend left to the top.

SWAMP STONE CRACK S
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, Brandon O'Toole, 18th October 2020.
Climb the leftmost crack on the steep cracked wall, belay in the rift behind the buttress, exit to the right.

JOHNNY JUMP UP VS 4c *
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 18th October 2020.
Climb the cracked pillar to the grassy ledge. Move right a little and climb the smooth upper wall (crux) using two thin vertical cracks and ignoring easier alternatives.

EMERALD HS *
Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 18th October 2020.
Climb the next pillar on it's left hand side (VD), climb the steep upper wall 1 m right of the arete.

CHASING CARS VD
Barry Watts,Tom Van Rensburgh, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 17th October 2020.
Climb the crack 5m right of EMERALD to the grass ledge, move right and finish up the left facing groove on the second level.

MAYA'S CHIMNEY D
Audrey O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburgh, Tom Van Rensburgh, 18th October 2020,
Climb the chimney 7m's right of Chasing Cars.

SHADOWHUNTERS S

Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole May 2021

Brandon’s Block

A large cracked block protrudes from the escarpment after walking up the hill from the parking area mentioned above.

DON’T CALL ME CUPCAKE HS 4b
Barry Watts, Audrey O’Toole, Brandon O’Toole, 22/7/2019.
Climb the narrow crack and smooth steep slab at the left end of BB.

SETTLERS OF CATAN HS 4b
Barry Watts, 10/7/2020.
Climb into V shaped niche as for Violent Love, climb the left trending crack to an overlap and traverse left to finish more easily up dont call me.

VIOLENT LOVE VS 4c
Audrey O’Toole, Barry Watts, 22/7/2019.
Climb into the V shaped niche 4m’s right of Don’t call mee…., take the rightwards trending crack/groove to the top. A hand crack on the left and on the head wall will come in handy higher up.

WILDSTYLE HS 4b
Barry Watts, Audrey O’Toole, Brandon O’Toole, 22/7/2019.
Climb the overhanging corner above BB by clever use of the slab on the right.

300m's South or Right of Brandon’s Block the following routes start off the wide grassy mid way ledge and ignore the broken lower cliff.

Beagle Walls

NICK OF TIME HS
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3rd October 2020.
Climb a thin vertical crack to a grassy terrace, finish up a thin crack on the left.

CAPTAIN CODY S
Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 11th October 2020.
The left hand crack on the buttress.

CLONE WARS S
Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 11th October 2020.
The right hand crack on the buttress

THE JEDI S
Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 11th October 2020.
Delicate climbing up a wall brings you to a ledge and alcove, climb the pillar on the right using the wide crack.

HOUNDS OF THE BASKETCASES 11m HVS 5a & A1
Colm Peppard, 28th October 2018.
Approx half way along the 2nd tier there is an obvious corner with a distinct rounded overhang immediately to its left. Climb up the obvious crack running up the left side of the rounded overhang with some strenuous moves. Well protected (& tested - as gear was liberally hung on).

SNOWY'S ESCAPADE VS 4b
Gerry Galligan, Tintin Ageby, 6th May 2019.
Takes the crack 1m right of the corner.

TINTIN'S BIG ADVENTURE S
Gerry Galligan, Tintin Ageby, 6th May 2019.
Takes the right-trending crack 1m left of Banish Misfortune (2m right of the corner). Short and sweet.

BANISH MISFORTUNE S
Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 28th October 2018.
Climb the crack and corner groove 3m's right of the corner

SHEEPDOGS’S EXERCISE VS/HVS 4c
Ingolf Kühn, Barry Watts, 18th April 2019.
A harder companion piece to BANISH MISFORTUNE, climb the sustained groove 2m’s right of BANISH MISFORTUNE with holds and protection improving towards the top.

BONZO VD
Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 28th October 2018
6m's right of the corner. Climb the left edge of the slab to a blank wall traverse left to a grassy ledge and continue up the right facing corner to another grassy ledge, finish up the cracked slab.

DOBERMANS IDENTITY CRISIS HS 4b
Ingolf Kühn, Barry Watts, 18th April 2019.
Climb the easy groove right of BONZO, easy and loose to start delicate to finish.

STRAY DOGS HVS 5a
Stuart Kennedy, Gerry Galligan, 11/5/2019.
Take the only crack, 2-3m left of the pillar block. Move up the crack to attain the horizontal break. Climb the vertical flake-crack to the niche. Finish above. Satisfying.

First ascent of FASTER THAN THE HOUND

FASTER THAN THE HOUND S
Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 28th October 2018.
Take the left hand line past a bulge to the ledge and finish up the wall.

Variation: Arete Finish S
Gerry Galligan, Stuart Kennedy, 11/5/2019.
From the ledge, step left to finish up the arete.

WHERE BEAGLES DARE S
Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 28th October 2018.
Climb the right hand crack line past the ledge to the top.

A DREAM OF EASTER BUNNIES HS 4b
Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, Simon Kühn, Tristan Kühn,18th April 2019.
Thin crack line 3m’s right of WHERE BEAGLES DARE.

WOLLOX TO WINTERTIME 11m VS 4c
Colm Peppard, Barry Watts, 28th October 2018
3m's in from the right hand end of the 2nd tier {11m high face**} there is a twin crack close together trending up and leftwards to a slight bowl like indentation in the first clean face of 4the upper wall. Climb up the left side crack with a delicate move near the top. Good protection where needed.

FLUCHT VOR DEM REIFENBEISSER VS 4c
Ingolf Kühn, Simon Kühn, 18th April 2019.
Climb the twin cracks 3m’s right of WOLLOX TO WINTERTIME.

180 VD
Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 3rd October 2020.
Right of FLUCHT VOR DEM REIFENBEISSER there is a big block at half height, climb the groove/gully to the right of this past several ledges, at the final ledge finish up the steep clean wall on the left.

DOGS LIFE S
Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, 18th April 2019.
Take the cleaned left hand crack to the top

PIT BULLS DAY OUT HS
Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, 18th April 2019.
Take the right hand crack line to the top

DOG SHOW TRIALS VS 4c
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3rd October 2020.
Take the crack right of PIT BULLS DAY OUT to a horizontal break and a blank wall, traverse right into the groove and pull your way up that to finish up the slab.

Further South and right the hillside breaks up into three tiers of rock, the lowest tier become steeper and more continous and the following routes start along here.

SLI NA SIDHE HS
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 6th September 2020.
Thin crack 2m's left of WESTROPP'S WAY.

WESTROPP'S WAY D
Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 6th September 2020.
Takes the first deep crack/fault in the buttress.

SLAB AND TICKLE S
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 6th September 2020.
8m's right of WESTROPP'S WAY and between two patches of vegetation there is a left curving hanging corner formed by an overlap in the slab. Climb the slab and corner to the top.

RUN OF THE FAIRIES S
Gerry Galligan (1&2), Barry Watts (3), 16/6/2018.
Oughtdarra's first multi pitch climb, start at a prominent cave/crack on the far right of the three tier buttress.
1 10m Climb the crack to a grassy ledge.
2 7m Bridge your way up the v shaped chimney.
3 5m Climb the crescent shaped flakes to the top.

Family Fun Variation:
Cearbhall Daly, RoseMarie Daly 12/9/2020
2 4b 7m Climb the crack directly in line above the top of pitch one

RACE FOR THE ARAS S
Barry Watts (1&3), Colm Peppard (2), 27th October 2018.
Start 2m's right of RUN OF THE FAIRIES
1 10m Climb the wall past a key shaped crack to a grassy ledge.
2 7m Climb the crack 2m's right of the v shaped chimney.
3 5m Ascend the easy cracks/ramps to the top.
3 UNIQUE JUMPER FINISH HS 4b
Climb the thin crack and wall to the ledge and trend right to finish.

LAST CHANCE SALOON VD
Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 12th September 2020.
An eliminate that climbs the featured wall 3m's right of RACE FOR THE ARAS starting at the same level.

Fir Bolg VS 4c
Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 12th September 2020.
Takes the wide crack on the second tier above LAST CHANCE SALOON.

The continuous three tier crag ends and the next routes are 20 metres up a grassy boulder strewn slope.

PILLAR OF JOY S
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3rd October 2020.
Climb the cracks in the broken pillar, at the second ledge move around to the left and finish up the short ridge.

BACK TO ARAN S
Paddy O'Brien, Gerry Galligan, 12th September 2020.
Starts at a short groove, leading on to a leftward-facing arete. Climb both groove and arete. Mind the loose matter above.

Tír na Phúca VS 4c
Gerry Galligan, Paddy O'Brien, 12th September 2020.
Directly behind the free-standing pillar at the right-hand end of the recessed wall, is a leftward trending crack. Climb this to the top.

FRIGGERIFFICO HS 4b
Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 28th September 2018, ground up with rests.
Finger crack and cracked wall to top.

POWER SEIZURE VS 4c
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3rd October 2020.
Start 3 m's right of FRIGGERIFFICO and just left of a large block, climb the wall past a steep bulge and move left into a niche and finish more easily.

BLISTER HS
Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 3rd October 2020.
Climb the corner right of POWER SEIZURE, easy at first and thrutchy to finish.

CHASM RAVE VS 4c
Barry Watts, 28th September 2018.
Climb the steep groove to the grassy ledge, finish up the crack behind.

ROCK AND ROLL HVS 5b
Dermot Shiels, Ciaran Cleary, September 2011.
Climb the steep groove and vertical crack on the left hand side of the buttress to a ledge left of the overhang. Step right and climb the featured wall to a spacious belay ledge above.

YOUNGLING HVS 5b
Dermot Shiels, Brian McCarthy, August 2011.
The fist and hand jamming crack on the right hand side of the buttress. Climb the crack up to the overhang and take the right hand crack through the overhang.

THE ULSTERMAN VD
Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 6th September 2020.
Gives a fine tour up the right hand ramparts of this wall. Start at a steep hand crack on the right hand side of the crag, climb this strenuously to a ledge, move right and climb another wall to a bigger ledge, traverse right following a wide crack up an airy ridge to the top.

Leaba na hAon Bhó

Leaba na hAon Bhó - Panoramic View - Apr 2014

The next set of routes are found on a wall a few minutes further East/Inland from Northern Buttress. Approach: Climb the grassy ramp/gully between Northern Buttress and Central Areas. The wall should be instantly visible to the east.

It is also possible to approach from Leacht na nAmadan using the car parking details above, walking through the fields in the valley is easier underfoot than traversing the uneven ground directly beneath the cliffs.

Just to the north of Chimney of Doom is a small face with an obvious cross shape formed by intersecting horizontal and vertical cracks.

WOUNDED KNEE D
Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, Sara Lynch, 12 August 2017.
The corner on the left hand side of the face.

GRAZED KNUCKLE D
Ian McLoughlin, Stefan Reiman, 12 August 2017.
Climb the central crack.

200m North of LIGHTNING STRIKE a stone wall meets a detached pillar. The chimney to the left when looking at the cliff face is Chimney of Doom.

CHIMNEY OF DOOM D
Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, Sara Lynch, 12 August 2017.
Easy chimney.

Left of the main buttress, there is a small wall, identifiable by a large lightning shaped crack on it's right hand end.

MONKEY SHUFFLE VS 4c
Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 16th June 2018.
Climbs the edge 4m left of the right facing corner using a crack on the left and some flakes on the right, high first step at start and easier thereafter.

COMIC TIMING HS
Ian McLoughlin, Stefan Reiman, Barry Watts, 31st March 2018.
There is a right facing corner 10m left of the lightning bolt crack. Climb the cracked wall 1m left of this.

CORONER'S CORNER VD
Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, Barry Watts, 31st March 2018.
Climb the shallow right facing corner 4m to the left of the lightning bolt

THE GRAPES OF WRATH 8m VS 4b
P. Wood, G. Galligan, July 2011.
2m to the left of the lightning bolt is a large sloping chimney, capped by a large block. Start from the top of a detached block, about 2 metres left of the open chimney. Climb the flake strenuosuly. Not much gear, and when you think it's over it isn't.

LIGHTNING STRIKE 12m VD
Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 16th June 2018.
Climb the wide lightning-strike shaped cleft on sparse protection. Airy.

FANTAPANTS 14m S
Gerry Galligan, Jindra Kaplicka, Barry Watts, 7th July 2012.
6m to the right of the lightening strike, next to a drystone wall, is an obvious protruding ridge. Climb the ridge. Purists will avoid the boulders at base.

STRIPPER D
Terry Sommerville and Sinead Johnston, 27th Feb 2020.
Between Fantapants and Slab of Heineken. Basically on the gap/crack on the opposite side of lightning strike. Loads of great gear and a nice climb to get warmed up on trad.

SLAB OF HEINEKEN D
Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 31st March 2018.
3m right of FANTAPANTS there is a two tier slab. Climb this on the right hand side trending slightly leftwards

The next 2 climbs are found on a large detached pillar 15m right of the lightning crack butress.

THE BALROG E1 5c **
Dermot Shiels, Ciaran Cleary, September 2011.
Climb the arrete of the large detached pillar. After a boulder start, protect the next hard moves with a sling on a flake hold left of the arete. Nice climbing on very thin layback flakes to get to the top.

JACK IN THE BOX VS
Ciaran Cleary, Dermot Shiels, September 2011.
Climbs the face to the right of The Balrog.

About 5m to the right there is a cracked wall with some grassy ledges,

MUCKSAVAGE CRACK S
Barry Watts, Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 31st March 2018.
Climb the cleanest crack on the left, the start is steep.

About 10m to the right there is another pillar with a handy descent behind.

JUGS WALL HS 4b
Barry Watts, Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 31st March 2018.
Climb the wall 1m right of the left edge to the top, the start is steep and there is a good medium/large friend slot in a big jug hold halfway up.

JUGS GALORE VS 4c
Ciaran Cleary, Cian Hogan, 02/08/2011.
This climb is 16m left of GOTTA SCRATCH AN ITCH on a pillar with hazel bushes in front and descent gully behind, start 4m from the left of the pillar. Climb through a small over hang using a hidden hand hold, good holds and gear all the way to the top.

HIGH STEP VS 4c
Ciaran Cleary, Cian Hogan, 02/08/2011.
This is 2m right of JUGS GALORE pull up through another small over hang up the crack to the top

10m further on there is a smooth cracked clean buttress that is 30m long before it ends in a cave/rift.

GOTTA SCRATCH AN ITCH HS 4b
C. Hogan, D. Gallagher, June 2011.
Couple of metres left of 'Wheels within wheels'. Start at the wall and climb up to the flake. Reach left to good holds on the bulge and pull up. Continue up slab to top. (wouldn't be 100% sure on the grade)

WHEELS WITHIN WHEELS S
Radu Toma, Barry Watts, Keith Nevin, 28th May 2011.
10m left of Nervoous Laughter there is a buttress of excellent quality less steep rock. Climb the striking left hand crack steeply at first to the top.

KARMIC RETRIBUTION VS 4b
Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts 17th July 2011.
Follows the interesting rib 1m right of Wheels within Wheels to the top.

PADDY THE PLASTERER S
John Ringrose, Jeff Ringrose, Georgina Quain, September 2005.
Right of WHEELS WITHIN WHEELS the buttress becomes smooth and cracked. Start as for CELTIC TIGER for the less intrepid or directly off an embedded block and make bouldery moves to monster jugs which lead up to a small ledge at mid height. Marvel at the smooth nature of the rock ! Interesting moves on solid rock bring you past the almost crucifix like cracks to the top.

CELTIC TIGER HS
Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg, 26th May 2019.
Start 1m left of STALL THE DIGGER, follow the slab and move right onto the arête when holds diminish, a pointy block in the corner was used once to gain the upper arete.

STALL THE DIGGER D
John Ringrose, Jeff Ringrose, Georgina Quain, September 2005.
Takes the easy angled corner-groove on the right hand side to the top.

SACRED COW D
Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts 16th July 2011.
Follows the rib 1m right of Stall the Digger to the top

GREEK BAILOUT S
Barry Watts, Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 31st March 2018.
Long drawn out terms and conditions on Oughtdarra's first traverse route! Climb SACRED COW for 3m, traverse leftwards along the narrow ledges as far as WHEELS WITHIN WHEELS. Two options here going leftwards to the wide crack finish; a high level traverse or a same level traverse.

DONDAGE D
Don Bosco Rogers, Tracy Smith, 13th April 2015.
About 2m to the right of Sacred Cow, looks like a step, loose rocks, trends to the left, not the first ascent

JINGLE MAIL VS 4c
Barry Watts, Jindra Kaplicka, Gerry Galligan, 7th July 2012.
An eliminate going up the right-hand side of slab, 3m right of Sacred Cow. Gain the eliminate, small pock-marks to large, left-trending line of weakness. Finish directly.

DO BOTHER VD
Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 27/05/2017.
Start at bottom of the wide crack/fault but climb the outside face/arete using the large flake.

MAYBE BOTHER VD
Ian McLoughlin, Stefan Reiman, 27/05/2017.
Climb the wide crack/fault. Traverse to Golden Circle at about 3m.

GOLDEN CIRCLE S
Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 16th July 2011.
Start a few metre's left of the cave entrance, follow the obvious narrow crack line over a few small ledges to the top

LICK MORE BLOOD HS
Radu Toma, Stephen Bender, Aug 2012.
Climb the arete (left layback moves), left of "NERVOUS LAUGHTER", on very sharp holds up to an obvious crack with good hand holds and good protection. From here easy scramble to the top, and over the chimney.

From left to right:

NERVOUS LAUGHTER: E1 5a
Colm Shannon, Darragh O'Conghaile, 2009.
Strenuous and awkward climbing to start following the crack up half way before moving leftward. Finish on better holds.

GRINGO'S ESCAPE: 6a HighBall Problem
Colm Shannon, 2009.
Interesting start on a thin crack to gain good hold 3m up. From here strenuous moves to gain under cut and then grassy ledge. Another ledge about a foot up allows you to bring up your feet and finish relatively easily from here.

FACE PLANT: HVS 4c/5a **
First ascent Clive Cusack, Jeff Ringrose, September 2005.
First recorded ascent Colm Shannon, 2009 Enjoyable lay backing to start up to the point where crack widens. Here gain good hold on right of crack, step up on onto a small notch and reach for high hold out left(crux). Easier Finish.

COCO: E1 5b*
Dermot Shiels, Ciaran Cleary, 25th July 2011.
Climbs the overhanging groove 8m right of Face Plant. Layback the thin crack up to a good hold on the rib to the right of the overhanging groove. Pull through to easier climbing above.

CRUBEEN: VS 4c*
Dermot Shiels, Radu Toma, 25th July 2011.
Nice shallow corner with layback crack 3m right of Coco, with a tricky move near the top.

GRACE UNDER PRESSURE E2 5c**
J Healy, G O'Mahony, 15th April 2017.
Just left of Lick The Blood a pair of cracks go directly up a groove. Climb the groove strenuously to excellent jams at half height. After a few more moves a good hold right of the crack leads to better and the top. Sustained

LICK THE BLOOD: VS 4b
Radu Toma, Dermot Shiels, 25th July 2011.
Climbs the arette (with a laybacking crack) 2m left of The Mad Vet. Easy start with good protection, step right and prepare to layback from half way all the way to the top. Committing!

THE MAD VET VS 4c
Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 17th July 2011.
Takes the short wide crack on the right of the buttress. The rock is solid but be prepared for a strenuous exit to finish.

TEDS TINKERS HS 4b
J Healy, R Daly, 30/03/2017.
Start up King of the Faeries. At 3m step left to the foot of the arete. Climb the arete to the top.

KING OF THE FAIRIES HS 4b
Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 17th July 2011.
6m right of The Mad Vet and facing a holly tree and boulder there is a corner capped by a triangular overhang. Climb the corner branching out steeply right to finish.

Variation: Direct Finish HS 4b
Gerry Galligan, Peter Wood, 31st July 2011.
Climb the corner up to and left of the overhang.

NONO: E1 5b*
Dermot Shiels, Niamh McGreen, 26th July 2011.
Climbs the finger cracks 2m right of King of the Fairies. Climb the finger cracks to reach a thin flake to the right where the cracks end. Pull up on small face holds to reach better holds above.

Right of NONO is a small bay with a prominent finger crack cross at its centre. There are three routes in the bay.

THE CLOSET BREXITEER VD
R Daly, J Healy, 30/03/2017.
Climb the corner that forms the left hand side of the bay.

THE KNACK HS 4c
J Healy, R Daly, 30/03/2017.
Climb the crack up the centre of the cross at the base of the wall. A long move gains a good hold above. Pull up strenuously and continue more easily to the top.

SWAMPY JOCKS VD
J Healy, R Daly, 30/03/2017.
Start R of the cross below a recessed scoop in the wall. Climb directly up and out of the scoop.

THE KID, HEH S
Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 6/5/2019
Start 1m right of SWAMPY JOCKS. climb the ramp and steep wall and finish up the clean cracked slab above on good but spaced holds.

THE SHNOZ, HEH S
Ian McLoughlin, Stefan Reiman, 28/05/2017.
Start 1m left of Toilet Time. Climb the outside of the nose between Swampy Jocks and Toilet Time.

Mitch on Mitchin Impossible

TOILET TIME VD
Darragh Conneely, Mitch Miller, 7/02/2010.
Climb the left corner

THE SHLAB, HEH S
Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 28/05/2017.
Straight up middle of slab between Toilet Time and Mitchin Impossible without using either crack.

MITCHIN IMPOSSIBLE * HS 4b
Mitch Miller, Darragh Conneely, 07/02/2010.
Follow middle crack.

THE DIRTY HALF DOZEN S
S. Reiman, I. McLoughlin, C. Mazzanti, Sara M, J. Linde, D. Hendrick, 17/9/2017.
Straight up middle of slab between Mitchin Impossible and There's Something About Mary. Even looking at either vertical crack is considered cheating.

THERES SOMETHING ABOUT MARY D
L Timoney, J Healy, 30/03/2017.
Start 3m right of Mitchin Impossible. Climb the crack to where it curves left and steepens. Step R here and climb the straight crack directly up to the top.

PIECE OF CAKE D
Petra Tolarová, Stefan Reiman, Dermot O'Dwyer, 16/04/2017.
Start 2m right of THERES SOMETHING ABOUT MARY. Climb the obvious crack to the top.

POP VD
Stefan Reiman, Petra Tolarová, Dermot O'Dwyer, 16/04/2017.
Start at gap between boulder and left-hand side of wall. Climb crack in centre of left-hand wall past a horizontal crack at 2/3 height.

GLEBE VS
Dermot O'Dwyer, Stefan Reiman, Petra Tolarová, 16/04/2017.
Climb left-hand crack in centre of wall. Difficulty eases after first moves.

BACK IN THE SHIT ** HVS 5a
Colm Shannon, Darragh Conneely, 07/02/2010.
Make some hard moves off the ground to get a big hold on top of the block wedged in the crack. From here use the crack and crimps to the left to finish up.

SOFT LANDING - HVS 5a
Darragh Conneely, Mitch Miller, 07/02/2010.
Difficult moves to get over the bulge at the start. (Direct Start - E1 5b - Gabrielle Orsini, Radu Toma 10/08/2013 - takes the shallow crack slightly to the left of the main crack.)

THE REACH ** E1/2 6a
Colm Shannon, Un-seconded 07/02/2010.
Start to the left of the slab with both hands on a sharp pocket (where my left foot is in picture). From here step up onto high holds and stand tall, leaning into the slab, before reaching far to the right for the feature. After this, much easier climbing leads to the top. Note 1: This will probably not be possible for people of short to average stature :-) Note 2: (for the short people :) 10/08/2013) use good high left handhold (side pull) in order to bring right foot onto the sharp pocket. This will enable you to reach far right.

MIND YOUR MONKEY BONE VS 4c
Ciaran Cleary, Brian Mcarthy, 30/07/2011.
This start 4m right of THE REACH on a pillar with a stone wall at the base on it, start to the left of the wall bouldering start on OK gear to reach a lay back to good holds to the top.

WHERES ME FINGER TAPE HVS 5a
Ciaran Cleary, Dave Cummins, 21/05/2012.
2m right of mind your monkey bone, hop over the wall to a blank wall with 2 horizontal cracks start in the middle climb up to the second crack using small wires, then traverse left to the arete, follow to the top.

AILL RIGHT NOW VS
Dermot O'Dwyer, Stefan Reiman, Petra Tolarová, 16/04/17.
Climb corner underneath overhang, continue straight up the crack above

Blood on the rack HS
David Atkinson, Jono Redmond, 02/01/2021.
The Crack just right of All Right Now. Follow the broken crack to the top on interesting holds.

Dave on Blood on the Rack HS

Mobility Issues VS
Jono Redmond, David Atkinson, 02/01/2021.
100 metres to the right of Blood on the rack, there is a large upside down pyramid of rock amongst some trees. Mobility Issues starts at the base of a crack. Climb 3 metres into a scoop underneath an overhang and make a tricky move right into a chimney. Venture inwards and exit up and at the back of the chimney via a tight squeeze!

Line of Mobility Issues VS

Ballynahown

Moved to Ballynahown page as this is a crag in development in a different townland to Oughtdarra