Ceann Sibéal

Location: The attempts at climbing on Ceann Sibéal in 1956 were confined to a series of clean, conglomerate pinnacles at the extreme south-west end. The geography of the region is sketched very roughly in the following diagrams. There are essentially two parallel lines of pinnacles, each running north to south into the sea.

Ceann Sibéal - south-west end.

The ridges and pinnacles as seen directly from above:

The main ridge and pinnacles as seen from the west:

Approach: Descend a couple of steps of the Main Stepped Ridge, and then descend to the gully between that and the Pinnacle and Ridge. Descend the gully to the gap north of Pinnacle A. Cross Pinnacle A, Pinnacle B and Pinnacle C. Traverse around Pinnacle C and descend from a nick to the Small Pinnacle.

WEST FACE 55m V.Diff
B. McCall, F. Winder (leads shared) September 1956
This climb takes the easiest line up the west fact of Pinnacle C from the top of the Small Pinnacle. It is not hard, but it is exposed and slightly rotten.

1. 30m. Ascend the face on pebbly holds to the nick.
2. 25m. Traverse left from the nick, do a long pull-up and zigzag up.

The following information is taken from New Climbs 1986 & 1989.

Ceann Sibéal - Dingle Peninsula. Sheet 70 OS Discovery Series GR Q 314 064

Hidden Slab. The slab is directly up from the Dún an óir Hotel, where the cliffs dip down to their lowest point, about 200m east of the look-out tower. A wall runs down from the top of the crag to the small village and the hotel. The rock is a hard, very clean sandstone at an angle of 70 degrees. The inclined surface is the bedding plane of an ancient beach, with the water ripple marks providing friction holds for climbing. The slab runs almost the entire height of the cliff, recessed amidst magnificent rock architecture.

Arabia Deserta 100m HVS 4b, 5a, 4c
This climb takes the most obvious line up the slab, a crack-line running straight up the L-hand (east) side, to mid-height, and then diagonally R-wards across the slab to finish on a grassy rake. The start of the climb is reached by scrambling down onto a grassy rake on the west side of the slab, and abseiling down for three rope lengths to large ledges at the bottom. The top abseil rope should probably be left in situ for a secure belay for the final pitch.
1/. 40m 4b Climb the crack for 40m to belay at a good ledge.
2/. 40m 5a Continue straight up the crack for 15m. Traverse R and continue up a thin crack, trending diagonall R-wards. Belay near a small incut ledge. (Abseil rope used for belay).
3/. 20m 4c Continue up the crack to the diagonal grassy rake on the R-hand side of the crag.
S. Gallwey, E. Hernstadt (alternate leads). May 1986
Note: with 50m ropes the route may be done in two pitches. The bottom belay should be taken in the recess above the main ledge, and the halfway belay should be taken a full rope length up the crack, just before it joins the L-hand corner of the slab, at a point where a thin crack branches off diagonally R, which is the second pitch.

The Empty Quarter 65m E1 54, 4b
This climb takes a meandering line up the central blank face of the upper half of the slab. This central section stands out somewhat from the rest of the slab, and is delineated at times by a vague overlap to either side. Protection is somewhat marginal in places, consisting mostly of No. 4, 5 & 6 rocks. placed on their backs in horizontal breaks (carry lots of each). The two pegs are more or less useless, though they serve somewhat to mark the line of the route. The grade given is for a pre-inspected ascent.
Start: Just above the halfway belay of "Arabia Deserta" (in the corner on the L of the slab) in a position where it is just possible to see the upper half of the slab.
1/. 40m Climb out R and then up towards a triangular recess in the face (good protection). Pass the recess on the R-hand side and climb diagonally R with very marginal protection to a peg. From above the peg traverse back L to another knife-blade peg, where somewhat better protection may be found. Climb straight up quartz for 3m and then move diagonally L-wards across fairly blank rock to the R-hand side of ledge to belay.
2/. 25m. Climb up the corner/arete and sometimes on the L wall , crossing a grass ledge, until broken ground is reached. Belay. Traverse off into the grass gully to the L of the face.
S. Gallwey, O. Jacob 5th June 1989.

Note: the L-hand corner, running the full length of the upper slab, has been climbed by a party that included D. Somers. Apart from it being at a 'reasonable grade' further details are not known.

SOUTHERN BUTTRESS

Access: On the south side of the head, two square buttresses are separated by an equally large square cut shallow recess. Abseil to a large ledge beneath the centre of the buttress that lies to the west. This abseil is a continuous 110m; take care with sharp edges near the top.

Magic Island, 100m, HVS 5a, 5a, 5a, Peter Britton, Colm Ennis 1/8/2010
Near the right hand end of the buttress, only one obvious crack system leads most of the way up the buttress. Start from some large boulders.
1. 33m, 5a. Enter the crack from the left and climb, via a recess, to where the crack crosses a left trending shallow ramp. Some awkward moves at the top of the ramp lead to the belay to the right near a horizontal quartz vein.
2. 29m, 5a. Climb the steep (size 3 cam) crack with excellent jamming moves until the crack terminates at a slab.
3. 38m 5a. (This recommended finish climbed by Stephen Galway, 21/8/2010.) Traverse delicately leftwards on a slab, with scant protection, firstly under a large square recess, then past a shallow left facing 3m corner and on to the left extremity of the slab from where the headwall above is breached to easier ground.

3.a 33m, 5a. (Original Britton-Ennis finish) Traverse leftwards as far as the shallow left facing 3m corner. Climb the corner with some committing moves and poor protection. Move then with more ease to the top. (A prussic on the abseil rope reduces the seriousness of the unprotected shallow corner and thus the grade to 4c).

MAIN ARETE AREA

The first ascent claim is contested: Renowned Irish climber Mike Barry claims to have climbed this in the ‘80s. https://www.pressreader.com/ireland/sunday-indep It should be noted that the claim was made in good faith, as records are scarce.

Yer only man* E1 5b

(an Alpine grade of TD might be more appropriate)

First Recorded Ascent: Colin Struthers an Dave Ormerod 24 August 2024

Approach

Take the coast road to Ferriters Cove. After passing the golf course continue along the road to reach the highest house on the hill from where a short section of track leads to a grassy parking area on the right. Even from a long distance away, the top of the ridge which the route takes is visible as a rocky knoll some 300m to the left of the obvious lookout tower.

From the parking follow tracks uphill until it is possible to contour left to this point. (20 minutes)

Tale a breather on the the grassy slopes opposite where the whole route is now visible (deep breath!).

PS.The farmers are very friendly, smile and say hello, and obviously, don’t damage their fences. 



General

Sybil Head is one of the most spectacular coastal features in Ireland. This climb takes the massive stepped ridge that projects dramatically into the ocean.

The route is extremely long and exposed and should not be attempted in bad weather, particularly if high winds are forecast. Access to and escape from the ridge is complicated and rescue in the event of injury would be very difficult. Take spare clothes, food and a head torch. It should be obvious from your first sight of the ridge that this is a route for competent parties.

The rock is an incredibly knobbly conglomerate which is generally solid. However, it snags ropes very, very easily - expect some delays because of this. Use long extenders and don’t be tempted to run pitches together. Runner placements are less frequent than might be expected on such featured rock. Take lots of long slings. Large hexes are also very useful.

The route does not appear to be affected by nesting birds and the approach is non tidal except in very high seas when the first pitch may be swamped.

Getting to the start

As you face the crag a prominent darker boulder and a series of descending grass ledges are visible. The descent starts from a twin bolt belay which is slightly lower and10m to the left of the boulder. From here descend diagonally leftwards for 45m to a second bolt belay. Continue in the same line to further bolt belays that are 22m and 20m metres further along. The last of these bolts are in a recess below a slabby wall with a grass ledge above it. Climb up to the grassy ledge (20m) and at its left end are the anchors for the abseil approach.

(Note that it is instead possible to continue the descending traverse for a further 20m to a different set of bolts. The hangers have been removed as this proved to be a 70m free hanging abseil that led to a dead end)

Abseil into the chimney and aim for the slab wall on the left. On the first ascent a 100m static rope was used which was left in situ as a precaution. It was subsequently retrieved during the ascent. It should be possible to complete the descent using shorter ropes by finding an intermediate belay and either abseiling again or down climbing. The angle eases towards the base of the slab and it becomes possible to scramble leftwards (facing in) to arrive at a shallow gully which leads down around the corner to a belay at the foot of a large corner crack. This is nearly the most seaward point of the ridge. If you manage all this in less than an hour you have done well. The climb starts here.

The route

1. 35m (4b) Climb up and around the corner crack to arrive at a good ledge

2. 20m Either climb the chimney or pass it on the outside to gain another niche stance

3. 20m Traverse left from the stance to reach a knife edge section and then follow easy black ledges on the North side to a belay

4. 30m (4a) Climb the chimney to the large chockstone then move steeply left (obvious thread) and regain the crest which is followed to the next break in the ridge

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5. 40m Follow the ridge as it descends to arrive at a foot of another wall.

6. 35m (4a) Climb the wall up and slightly rightwards to gain a short chimney

which leads to the entry abseil station. (if an ab rope has been left in situretrieve it and carry it for the rest of the route, don’t drag it, it will snag)

7. 15m Climb above the belay and traverse rightwards along the crest to a cave. Pass the pinnacle on the North side or over the top if it’s not too windy to reach a thread belay.

8. 20 m Follow the ridge to a huge flake belay

9. 30m (4c) Climb above the belay keeping to the left of the chimney. A steep move leads to big holds and the flake crack above. From here move slightly left and up to gain the ridge again. Not much gear on this pitch.



10. 10m Follow the ridge easily to another belay with a thread low down to the left. ( An escape to the grass gully on the left may be possible here reducing the overall grade to HVS but this then omits the final 4 pitches).

11. 25m (5b) The route now throws a boulder problem into the mix. Overcome the blunt nose which has a good cam slot to gain a ledge.

Climb past the spongey recess on it’s left to reach the ridge. Along this for a short distance to thread and spike belays.

The ridge rears fiercely above this point. There are number of steep direct options but these would probably be significantly harder than all that has gone before and are not in keeping with the route. Therefore…..



12. 40m Descend easy slabs on the right side of the ridge, crossing over a little subsidiary ridge to arrive at the foot of an obvious chimney on the left

13. 15m Climb the chimney

14. 50m Follow the solid and delightfully easy slabs to the top of the ridge

Walk off from here. You’re done! 



The first 6 pitches of the climb were previously ascended on 22 August but gales and heavy rain forced a retreat from the abseil point used on the approach. However, these pitches include the most spectacular rock scenery on the route and are worthy of a route name in their own right. Escape at the end of pitch 6 would be by reversing the line of approach


First ascent:

Colin Struthers,

Yer Little Man* VS 4bl 180m, 6 pitches.

First Recorded Ascent: Colin Struthers, Dave Ormerod, Ginny Douglas and Matty Kemo 22/Aug/2024.

This route consists of the first 6 pitches of Yer Only Man and ends at the abseil point used top access the main route. Escape is then by reversing the approach. It provides an easier option than the whole ridge, covers some of the best ground and is very worthwhile in its own right.