Ballyryan

Introduction

This little crag is comprised of pillars, corners and chimneys and can be seen clearly from the road. Most of the routes were climbed by Tiglin groups before they were recorded. Access - From the car-park of Ailladie (Stone Wall area) walk south for a few hundred metres until the roadside crag swings sharply east and becomes a bit higher. Known locally as Ballyreen.

HIGHWAY PATROL S
Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 17/10/2020.
Before the roadside crag swings sharply East and 5m left of PUCK MAY BE FAMOUS there is a high face split by a discontinuous crack line. Climb the crack and take care with the rock.

PUCK MAY BE FAMOUS VD (1)

M McGrath, T Sommerville, 09/03/2019.

Razor sharp rock, follow the crack to top, lots of protection.

SALTSHAKER HS 4b

E Fitzgerald, 20/12/1997.

A thin line following the left crack and slab marked in light blue (above) and left of JOE SMOKES CRACK.

JOE SMOKES CRACK VD (1)
T Sommerville, M McGrath, 09/03/2019.
As shown, a really nice crack with lots of lovely gear placement, get to the ledge 3/4 of the way up and continue to top. Anchors are sparse but there are two threads a ways back, bring a long rope.

GET THEM FECKIN' CRUNCHIES Diff (1)

M McGrath, T Sommerville, 09/03/2019.

A small climb but room for nice gear if you want it. A small climbing challenge at the start and then easy to the finish. Good for practice.

NOT TERRY'S CRACK S (2)

G Shannon, O Kelly, 09/03/2019.

Climb starts 3m left of wham bam tank you cam. Follow crack. Traverse right two thirds of the way up. No.1 nut needed for protection on last move. Easy start hard finish.

WHAM BAM THANK YOU CAM S (3)
A Ní Cheallaigh-Mhuirí, R O'Sullivan, 08/03/2019.
Route far to the left of usual scramble ascent/descent. Start the crack just left of boulder. Protect from below the crux - a bulge which is strenuous to gain. Then continue the crack easily towards the right.

a KINDER SURPRISE HVS 5a
J. Hawkins, J O'Connor, 4/2/1995.
Between the descent route and WHOSE CORNER are two curving cracks which join at 7m. The route takes the right crack giving interesting off balance laybacking. Harder than it looks.

First ascent of Whose Corner and Wackey (Steve Young photo collection)

b WHOSE CORNER VS 4c
First ascent J O'Connor, J Whyte, August 1972. First Recorded Ascent C. Torrans (solo)
The short right-facing corner.

c TESCO VALUE HANGOVER HS 4b
First Recorded Ascent M .Campbell, T. Fegan, 14/07/2013.
Climb the crack line 1.5m right of 'Whose Corner'. An easy start provides protection for a thoughtful finish. Also known locally as Whose Wackey.

d WACKEY HS
J Mulhall, K Whyte, August 1972.
Climb the broken crack 3m right of whose corner

e CAOIMHE HVS/E1 5a
Alan Flood, Derick Tully, July 2010.
1.5m to the right of Wackey follow the thin left trending crack that eventually disappears to a featureless crux finish.

f THE DIVIL GETS AT YA HS
B Watts, A O’Toole, S Kelly, B O’Toole, G Angelini, 28/7/2019 (First recorded ascent).
Start just right of ‘’Caoimhe’’, climb straight up the wall and tackle the short off width crack.

g BALLYMEGASH HS
B Watts, G Angelini, A O’Toole, S Kelly, B O’Toole, K Kelly, 28/7/2019 (First recorded ascent).
The obvious fissure right of ‘’’the divil’’ is easy to start , finish up the steep wide crack.

g1 WORKING ON THE HIGHWAY S

B Watts, A O’Toole, B O’Toole, 20/4/2024.

Climb the broken rib 2m left of STREET RACER (and just right of the gully) to the ledge and finish up the wall.

h STREET RACER VD
B Watts, A O'Toole, 7/4/2019 (First recorded ascent).
Climb the broken rib 2m left of FROST IN MAY to the ledge and finish up the wide crack.

i FROST IN MAY S
Start below the left-facing corner crack at half height. Climb over the bulge, up to the corner crack and up this to the top.

j COUCH POTATOES HS
B Watts, E Fitzgerald, 15/2/1998.
Start right of Frost in May, climb easily up the wide crack to a ledge and gain the top using the left hand crack.

RIB VD
The flakey rib just left of the chimney.

6. CHIMNEY D
The chimney with the jammed chockstone. (6)

BETWEEN LEFT CRACK S
Brian Rodgers, 1/8/2009.
Start just right of Chimney and far left of Left Crack. Climb directly to the top

7. LEFT CRACK HS 4b
The crack just right of chimney. (7)

8. RIGHT CRACK * VD
Easy to start, difficult to finish. (8)

9. BALLYALPINE S
Unknown
Climb 2 m up ‘Right crack’ then veer right up the slab and wall to the top.
Note: It’s been climbed for years but I heard it referred to by Clare climbers as Ballyalpine (9)

10. VULGARIAN S
R. Mullen, T. Ore, 01/12/98.
Start just left of the base of Wide Chimney. Up over short vertical cracks to a tiny slab then direct to the top. (10)

10a. GETYOURNAMEINTHEBOOK HS4c
J Healy, G O'Mahony, 01/01/20.
Climb the arete between Vulgarian and Wide chimney

11. WIDE CHIMNEY D
The second chimney on the crag, just left of the steep wall. (11)

11b. CHEAP LABOUR E1 5a
Tim and John O'Connell, March 09.
This route is to the left of Slave Labour. Follows the blank slab then runs into a crack before topping out. (Red)

12. SLAVE LABOUR E1 5b
C. Torrans.
This route climbs the thin crack in the steep west-facing wall. Good climbing on sound rock. (12)

13. MANNERLESS MONSTER * HS 4b
C. Torrans.
This excellent little route climbs the broad rib on the left edge of the alcove. Climb the rib to the top. Poor protection.

AGONY ANT E2 5c
Brian Rodgers, 1/8/2009.
Start on the slab wall left of the arete next to The Alcove Crack. Climb directly to the top of the crag on small holds with pockets to start. Do not use the arete

THE ALCOVE CRACK * HS 4b
This route takes the left of the two wide cracks in the alcove. Strenuous climbing on sound rock.

TRIUMPH CRACK * HS 4b
The right-hand of the two cracks. Strenuous but delightful climbing.

€40 PATAGONIA HAT Diff
Adam West, Fionn Delahunty, 16/04/2017.
An adventure through the crag, pass through Triumph Crack into the narrow chimney, then squeeze in behind the chock stones and slither to the top.

LOUISE VS
Brian Rodgers, 01/8/2009.
Start in the centre of the wall between Triumph Crack and Hippy to Yuppy. Climb directly to the top. Tricky to adequately protect.

HIPPY TO YUPPY HVS 5b
C. Torrans, C. Sheridan, 27/4/86.
Up the arete to the ledge and continue up the right edge.

CRAZY GAME OF POKER E3 6a
Cian Kearns, Brian Bateson, 8/9/2014 (practiced on top-rope).
Climb the slightly overhanging arete to the right of "Hippy to Yuppy" staying mainly on the face. The crux is getting your feet onto the obvious, hollow-sounding flake around one third height. Protection is poor after halfway.

ARETHUSA VS 5a
B Watts, N Callender, 12th June 1999.
An early attempt on the "poker arete". Pull your way up the arete for 3m (and no sneaky bridging over to Dolmen Corner either!). Swing right around the arete and move up to reach a ledge. Finish diagonally rightwards up easier cracks.

Arethusa location

DOLMEN CORNER HS 4b
unknown
The obvious corner crack left of Ballyryan Dasher has been climbed for years but never recorded, It's worthwhile and I think a grading of HS 4b would be accurate, I'm not aware of any local names for it but something like 'Dolmen corner' would be keeping in with tradition and the environment ! - Barry Watts.

DOLMEN WALL HS

B Watts, A O’Toole, B O’Toole, 20/4/2024.

There is shallow crack half way between DOLMEN CORNER and INTERVIEW WITH A JELLYFISH, start here and climb steeply to a good flake, traverse diagonally leftwards to a sloping ledge, climb the left facing corner and juggy left wall to the top, finish up the left wall of the left facing chimney on the upper tier for extra satisfaction and panoramic views.

INTERVIEW WITH A JELLYFISH VS
K Cooper, Oct 1994 (first recorded).
R. Kernan, S. Oakes, 14/7/2013.
A slightly eliminate but good line which takes the bulging corner 1m left of Ballyryan Dasher (i.e. Where you generally have your right foot). Plenty of bridging and good gear.

BALLYRYAN DASHER S 4a
This route is situated in the bay just right of the square-cut alcove and climbs the broken, wide crack.

LEGOVER VS 4c
The right-hand crack in the bay. Treat the rock with care.

SCOWER BALL E3 5c
D. Ayton, C. Harney, (lead onsight) July 04.
An overhanging arête to the left of Crack 90. Loose rock at the top and no gear past mid height, medium wires in a thin crack up to that point. A NO star route but a route non-the-less.

CRACK 90 E3 6a
D. Johnson, August 1988.
Climbs the overhanging thin crack left of Elvis Who?

ELVIS WHO? HVS 5a
D. O Sullivan, April 1986.
Several metres right of the bay is a right-trending wide crack. This is climbed to the top.

MR PRESIDENT VS 5a
A. McDaniel, S. Klaver, 11/4/96.
The crack right of Elvis Who?. Climb the crack and move left to the arete and finish up the crack above the overhang.

Is Anyone In The Jacks HS 4b/c
R. Dalton, B. Walsh, 27/01/11.
The left facing corner crackline 3m right of MR PRESIDENT, Varied climbing, well protected.

THE IMPERIAL ASCENDANCY VS 4c

B Watts, B O’Toole, 20/4/2024.

The left facing corner 5m right of Is Anyone In The Jacks, a bouldery and strenuous initial section to reach ledge followed by an easier wide crack to finish.