Difference between revisions of "AC Buttress"
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This small buttress is located on the southern slopes of Coumshingaun, just before the lake. The buttress has two main tiers. The lower tier being split by an obvious off-wdith crack. The rock is conglomerate and tends to be brittle in places. | This small buttress is located on the southern slopes of Coumshingaun, just before the lake. The buttress has two main tiers. The lower tier being split by an obvious off-wdith crack. The rock is conglomerate and tends to be brittle in places. | ||
| − | == Lower Tier == | + | ==Lower Tier== |
'''The Heist''' 17m [VS 4c] <br> | '''The Heist''' 17m [VS 4c] <br> | ||
| − | J Horgan, P Scanlan, 20 Jul. 2013<br> | + | ''J Horgan, P Scanlan, 20 Jul. 2013''<br> |
Start in the obvious off-width in the centre of the buttress. Climb on the left-hand face until above the bulge (crux) at 4m. Large gear essential to protect this lower section. Climb another 4m until the crack widens into a chimney. Good chock-stones at base and top of the chimney. Belay can be found in the cracks of the upper tier. | Start in the obvious off-width in the centre of the buttress. Climb on the left-hand face until above the bulge (crux) at 4m. Large gear essential to protect this lower section. Climb another 4m until the crack widens into a chimney. Good chock-stones at base and top of the chimney. Belay can be found in the cracks of the upper tier. | ||
| − | == Upper Tier == | + | ==Upper Tier== |
The upper tier leans at an angle of 70-80 degrees. The rock is loose / fragile and there is little to no protection on any of the routes. However, there is a solid boulder belay at the top. | The upper tier leans at an angle of 70-80 degrees. The rock is loose / fragile and there is little to no protection on any of the routes. However, there is a solid boulder belay at the top. | ||
'''Thrift Shop''' 10m [V Diff] <br> | '''Thrift Shop''' 10m [V Diff] <br> | ||
| − | J Horgan, 6 July 2013<br> | + | ''J Horgan, 6 July 2013''<br> |
Climb the arete just left of "My Oh My". No protection. | Climb the arete just left of "My Oh My". No protection. | ||
'''My Oh My''' 8m [V Diff] <br> | '''My Oh My''' 8m [V Diff] <br> | ||
| − | J Horgan, B McConnell, 19 June 2013<br> | + | ''J Horgan, B McConnell, 19 June 2013''<br> |
The left most crack. Little to no protection. | The left most crack. Little to no protection. | ||
'''Wing$''' 7m [Diff] <br> | '''Wing$''' 7m [Diff] <br> | ||
| − | J Horgan, 30 June 2013<br> | + | ''J Horgan, 30 June 2013''<br> |
Climb the arete between the two cracks. | Climb the arete between the two cracks. | ||
'''Cant' Hold Us''' 6m [Diff] <br> | '''Cant' Hold Us''' 6m [Diff] <br> | ||
| − | J Horgan, 19 June 2013<br> | + | ''J Horgan, 19 June 2013''<br> |
The right most crack. Little to no protection. | The right most crack. Little to no protection. | ||
Latest revision as of 21:53, 24 March 2021
This small buttress is located on the southern slopes of Coumshingaun, just before the lake. The buttress has two main tiers. The lower tier being split by an obvious off-wdith crack. The rock is conglomerate and tends to be brittle in places.
Lower Tier
The Heist 17m [VS 4c]
J Horgan, P Scanlan, 20 Jul. 2013
Start in the obvious off-width in the centre of the buttress. Climb on the left-hand face until above the bulge (crux) at 4m. Large gear essential to protect this lower section. Climb another 4m until the crack widens into a chimney. Good chock-stones at base and top of the chimney. Belay can be found in the cracks of the upper tier.
Upper Tier
The upper tier leans at an angle of 70-80 degrees. The rock is loose / fragile and there is little to no protection on any of the routes. However, there is a solid boulder belay at the top.
Thrift Shop 10m [V Diff]
J Horgan, 6 July 2013
Climb the arete just left of "My Oh My". No protection.
My Oh My 8m [V Diff]
J Horgan, B McConnell, 19 June 2013
The left most crack. Little to no protection.
Wing$ 7m [Diff]
J Horgan, 30 June 2013
Climb the arete between the two cracks.
Cant' Hold Us 6m [Diff]
J Horgan, 19 June 2013
The right most crack. Little to no protection.
