View source for Iorras - Doonamo Point


'''Note that this location is not actually at Dún na mBó Point but at the nearby blowhole beside the road.'''

GR F 64 42 S

'''Leithinis an Mhuirthead (the Mullet Peninsula)—also known as an Mhuirthead ( the Mullet) — is a peninsula in the barony of Iorras (Erris) in the Gaelteacht in County Mayo. It consists of a large promontory connected to the mainland at Béal an Mhuirthead (Belmullet) by a narrow isthmus. Dún na mBó is due west of Béal an Mhuirthead.'''
==='''Getting there'''===
'''Starting from American Street in Béal an Mhuirhead turn left onto R313. Drive along the strand and take the first turn right. Follow this to a church on the left side and 300m after this take the road on the right/ straight ahead. Follow this to turn right for at a sign for Dún na mBóó. The crag is about 30m beyond the Dún na mBó Blowhole. It is identified by being exactly opposite a large 60m x 30m rock out to sea which is joined to the crag by a shelf.''' 

'''Abseil down to a small platform in a corner and this will provide standing space for up to three persons.'''  '''The crag is south facing, rock (schist) is clean and of high quality friction. Description sent in reads "reasonable top protection for leader, but not a lot of climb protection". The rock is considered to be pretty sound, is mainly of horizontal cracks, shelves and steps, but not a lot of protection.'''

'''1/. Spider's Fall'''   S   20m<br>''G. O'Neill, C. Lynch 8.4.94''<br>Start from the platform and move directly up into corner about 3m. Protection point. Traverse left out into the exposed face over a quartzite patch. Move upward along a vertical break to another horizontal crack and continue to the top by the left side of a vertical flake.

'''2/. Oakwood Revisited'''   V. Diff   20m<br>''J. Tracey 8.4.94''<br>From the platform, move up the corner on the left side of the small arete which becomes easier towards the top where large steps remove the buzz from the climb.

'''3/. Beaty's Brainy Brother'''   HS 4b   22m<br>''M. Tracey, G. O'Neill 8.4.94''<br>From the platform move move to the right face by moving up to the overhanging block. Surmount this block and continue to the top directly via a series of horizontal cracks. No protection.

'''4/. Beavis and Butthead'''   HS 4b   22m<br>''G. O'Neill (solo) 9.4.94''<br>Start as for Beaty's Brainy Brother but, from the overhanging block move out right to below the nose and climb up and out to the edge of this nose and directly to top.

'''5/. Spookey sounds''' V. Diff

''M. Tracey, 8.4.94''

As for '''Oakwood Revisited''', but continue the route up to the right side of the small arete.

'''6/. Left out in 90''' S

''M. Tracey, D. Tracey, 8.4.94''

Start climb from platform directly up the face on the left side of the corner. Continue up about 15m to a horizontal crack which goes directly to the lower part of the top nose of the face. Lay back up seaward facing flake to the top.

'''7/. Itchy and Scratchy''' HS

''M. Tracey, G. O'Neill 8.4.94''

Climb as per '''Left out in 90''' but about 10m up, commence a traverse towards the top of the lower nose to a horizontal crack. Climb upward via this crack to where 2 further cracks are found. Take the right crack to the top.

'''8/ Dumplings and Acne''' VS 4c 25m

''M. Tracey, 8.4.94''

Start at the platform and move rightward along a 45 degree shelf under the overhangs until you reach the edge which now turns towards the entrance to the blowhole. Climb upwards to an area of orange lichen. The face now consists of small overhangs and shelves, with handholds which are rounded and less punitive. Climb to top past patch of quartzite.