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| − | The formation of ice in Wicklow may seem a rarity, however almost every year some form of winter climbing conditions can develop in the hills. Good ice climbing conditions may form on average every 2-3 winters, however short lived (or otherwise) they may be. Due to its easy accessibility the Wicklow mtns do provide some interest to the winter climber.
| + | This information is taken from New Climbs 1981.<br> |
| − | A sustained period (10 days or so) of cold northerly through to easterly weather patterns is sufficient to start freezing groundwater and seepage lines. After this, streams and waterfalls start to freeze up. As a rule of thumb, a week of temps around freezing near sea level is enough to get the freeze cycle started. This, combined with strong winds is a recipe for good climbing. However if it is accompanied by heavy snowfall at the beginning of the cycle, the ground water can remain somewhat insulated in all but the most exposed parts, giving deep snow in the gullies not favorable for climbing. Good freeze thaw cycles can turn this to good neve, however this seems quite rare. The topography of the Wicklow hills provides very good surface run off on the steeper valley sides giving good mixed winter routes of waterfall ice and frozen turf. Routes can form from as low as the 400m contour in Glendalough area (more rare), through to the higher steep slopes of Lugnaquilla (very regulary). Out side of the obvious 'waterfall lines' that have all been climbed regularly, Wicklow offers further scope for the more adventurous type. Mixed routes, where seepage lines, frozen turf and rock come into condition can offer very worthwhile but less obvious adventures.
| + | Location: follow coast road as far as Waterfoot at the mouth of the glen. Take the Ballymena Road (A 43) for approx. 3 miles. The climbs are located up on the R. The most obvious feature (even from Waterfoot) is a waterfall called the Mare's Tail,, which starts about 10m from the road on a bend with a small layby. Routes from L to R looking at the falls.<br> |
| − | The main areas of interest for winter climbing are Lugnaquillia, Baravore, and Glendalough.
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| | + | '''NB.'''It is certainly possible to climb in Glenariff more frequently than one would expect, more so than the Mournes! The falls are very wide and even if they appear to be definitely not in condition (especially on the south-facing side) step up and have a closer look!<br> |
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| − | == LUGNAQUILLIA - SUMMIT AREA ==
| + | '''The Mane''' 250ft. ll/lll<br> |
| − | Because of its height Lugnaquillia is more frequently snow-covered or frost-bound than other areas in Wicklow. The climbs are found on the gullies and buttresses of the North and South Prisons which flank the summit plateau. Often snowfall rapidly fills in the climbing lines covering any ice other than the most exposed parts. sustained periods of freezing temps and wind with little snowfall gives the best climbing conditions. The quickest approach is up the track over Camarahill from the Glen of Imaal, alternatively park at the road head in Glenmalure and walk up Baravore valley.
| + | Approx. 200m R of The Mare's Tail is a disused house on the R and opposite a gate with a clearing. Scramble up to grass where you follow a faint path (which gets better) through the trees on the L bank of the stream bed. After 10 mins. you are at the waterfall.<br> |
| | + | Climb the fall with two short steep sections at the start. Descend down the path to the L.<br> |
| | + | About 1/4 mile down the road towards Waterfoot is an obvious fall high up - 'The Veil'. There is a second in the back of a deep broad gully which is hidden from the road.<br> |
| | + | Park at the end of a steep disused track leading down to valley floor or in the layby on the opposite side. Beside the layby is a field entrance. Cross the gate (3m back from the road) and enter the field on R heading up towards the falls. Follow the track until possible to get down into the river bed. The falls are obscured from vision here. <br> |
| | + | '''Fallout''' 200ft. lll/lV<br> |
| | + | Follow the river bed to a narrow section. Climb the steep icefall on the L and then the easier one above.<br> |
| | + | '''The Veil''' 300ft. lV/V<br> |
| | + | From the river bed climb the R bank through the trees to reach next and most impressive fall.<br> |
| | + | Climb the fall in three steep sections, the last one, being the hardest, was climbed on the L up 30 - 40 ft. of vertical and slightly overhanging ice to start.<br> |
| | + | Descent from the above two routes is by following the path on the L.<br> |
| | + | All routes are of top quality and highly recommended. Lengths of routes are approximate.<br> |
| | + | All routes were soloed by M. Manson and E. Cooper on 11th Jan 1982.<br> |
| | + | During a thaw there may be stonefall on 'The Mane' and 'Fallout'.<br> |
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| − | '''North Prison''' | + | '''The following information is taken from New Climbs 1985.'''<br> |
| − | The climbs are found above the inner corrie, the outer limit of which is marked by a moraine traversing the valley and within which is located a tiny lake or lochán. Climbers are reminded that the North Prison is within the military artillery range. firing schedules ca be found at Army Range Warden Service, Seskin School, Glen of Imaal, Tel: (045) 404653
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| − | '''MAIN GULLY''' 200m I
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| − | From just above the lochán an obvious large gully runs up to the summit plateau. It gives fairly easy but quite steep climbing, at its best when the snow has been consolidated by freeze-thaw action, a rare enough event.
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| − | To the right of Main Gully there are one or two other gullies which also lead up to the summit plateau.
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| − | '''ICEFALL ROUTE''' 150m III | + | '''Winter Climbs''' |
| − | This is a little to the left of Main Gully and starts from a groove in the rocks. The main difficulties are near the bottom where there is a short near-vertical section which could give one or two anxious moments. The route runs up more easily with some short steps for a few pitches to an avoidable iced-up corner which can give another interesting problem. There is no further water-ice above this point so continue directly up or traverse into Main Gully to finish.
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| − | '''ICESLAB Route''' 45m III | + | 1/.''' Green Bananas''' 50m lll<br> |
| − | Start 15m down and to the left of the Icefall Route near the left side of slabs. Follow ice smears up past a perched block and finish up a series of short steps. Thread belay.
| + | East side of Crearlagh Burn Gorge.<br> |
| − | J. Lyons, D. Wall 19/11/1995
| + | 2/. '''Crearlagh Burn Step''' 7m lV<br> |
| | + | Step at top of burn<br> |
| | + | 3/. '''Ardclinis Burn''' ll/lll<br> |
| | + | Series of short steps along length of gorge.<br> |
| | + | 4/. '''Cushenilt Burn''' lll/lV<br> |
| | + | Series of steps leading to upper amphitheatre and including 'Black Fall' 13m halfway and 'The Banana Tree' , lll, 40m in centre of amphitheatre.<br> |
| | + | 5/. '''Da''' 13m lll<br> |
| | + | Short step at head of valley.<br> |
| | + | 6/. '''Grey Mare's Tails''' lV/V<br> |
| | + | Altnagowan Burn, cosisting of four pitches.<br> |
| | + | 4a/. '''Delaware Slide''' 60m V<br> |
| | + | This climbs the icefall on the L side of the obvious deep gully which is clearly visible from the road.<br> |
| | + | Climb the fall directly, exiting through the clean-cut slot at the top.<br> |
| | + | M. Manson, B. Ireland, S. McCrory. January 1984<br> |
| | + | '''The Mare's Tail''' 110m V<br> |
| | + | For location see opening paragraph at top of page. <br> |
| | + | Descent is as for 'The Mane'.<br> |
| | + | M. Manson, B. Ireland, M. McNaught (alternate leads), D. Woodward. February 1985<br> |
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| − | '''MAIN CRAG ROUTE''' 75m IV | + | The following information is taken from New Climbs 1986.<br> |
| − | This is a mixed route taking the left side of a prominent buttress starting a short distance up the boulder covered slope above the moraine marking the edge of the upper corrie. Its second pitch is hard and bold. | + | '''Mr. Frodo's Hairdryer''' 80m Grade 3<br> |
| − | J. Lyons, D. Wall, 24/1/95
| + | This route is located between Crearlagh Burn and Ardclinis Burn on the coast road.<br> |
| | + | Climb a steep 10m fall then weave interestingly up to a final steep step to the top.<br> |
| | + | D. Woodward, S. Glass, B. Mallon. 14th Jan. 1987.<br> |
| | + | '''Mirror''' 45m Grade 5<br> |
| | + | The steep smear on the L side of Cushentilt Burn.<br> |
| | + | A long, bold lead to finish on a grassy meadow and poor belay.<br> |
| | + | D. Woodward, S. Glass. 14th Jan. 1987.<br> |
| | + | '''P.O.P.''' 50m Grade 3<br> |
| | + | The R-hand watercourse in the upper amphitheatre of Cushentilt Burn.<br> |
| | + | D. Woodward, B. Mallon (solo). 2nd March 1986.<br> |
| | + | '''Easy Peasy''' 90m Grade 2/3<br> |
| | + | Follows the gorge cut by Black Burn in a series of short steps.<br> |
| | + | D. Woodward, B. Mallon (solo). 2nd March 1986.<br> |
| | + | '''Nearly''' 90m Grade 4.<br> |
| | + | Follows the gorge of Glassaneely Burn in a series of short steps.<br> |
| | + | B. Mallon, D. Woodward (solo). 2nd March 1986.<br> |
| | + | '''The Narrows''' 60m Grade 2/3<br> |
| | + | This follows the gorge cut by an un-named stream to south-west of 'Nearly'. The route takes a line up a narrow V-shaped gorge.<br> |
| | + | D. Woodward (solo). 2nd March 1986.<br> |
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| − | There are further climbing possibilities both on this crag and on outcrops on the hillside further to the right.
| + | About 200m L of 'Tough'there is a wide gully. the following route takes a line halfway up the gully.<br> |
| − | | + | '''Step Left''' 40m Grade 3<br> |
| − | '''South Prison''' | + | Climb the ice smear on the L side of the gully. Difficult to start, then easier to top.<br> |
| − | The South Prison is on the east and southern flank of the summit block and the most direct approach is via the forest tracks of the Ow Valley, starting from Aughavannagh. It can be approached from the west via the col between Slieve Maan and Lugnaquillia and then by traversing in beneath the impressive buttresses and gullies. Alternativly drop down into it from the summit.
| + | D. Woodward (solo) 17th Jan. 1987.<br> |
| − | The South Prison contains three well-defined gullies and the last of these, the furtherest to the right is of most interest to the climber. good pics here http://forum.climbing.ie/index.php/topic,64.165.html
| + | '''Tough''' 100m Grade 5<br> |
| − | | + | A prominent three-tiered ice-fall forms at the L-hand end of the main north-facing cliff. The second pitch is the crux, with anicicle fring not usually filled out. A short ramp leads to the upper pitch.<br> |
| − | '''RIGHTHAND GULLY''' 170m II | + | D. Woodward, G. Walker. 26th Feb. 1986.<br> |
| − | This gully sweeps up through an imposing terrain of flanking buttresses in which a streamlet provides ice build-up which can vary from eggshell to solid. There are some icy steps and runnels, interesting without being too challenging. The exit funnel can provide interesting problems.<br>
| + | '''Wimp Out''' 85m Grade 4<br> |
| − | | + | L of 'Delaware Slide' (see above, New Climbs 1985) at a small coniferous clump is a prominent wide icefall. The first pitch leads to a good belay L of the imposing icicle fringe. Traverse below this where a short steep pitch widens out into a fan-shaped upper pitch.<br> |
| − | [[file:lug.jpg|600px]]
| + | D. Woodward, B. Mallon. 23rd Feb. 1986.<br> |
| − | | + | '''Stepping Out''' 100m Grade 3<br> |
| − | '''South Prison, Righthand Gully'''
| + | Between 'Wimp Out' and 'Slippery Steps' a ribbon of ice may sometimes form. Easier after half-height.<br> |
| − | | + | D. Woodward, S. McCrory (solo) 17th Jan 1987.<br> |
| − | the steep wall to the right (as in the photo) offers numerous short steep mixed lines at about grade 5+ or so.
| + | '''Slippery Steps''' 100m Grade 4<br> |
| − | | + | Route follows an un-named river north of Doon Burn. Easy first series of steps leads via a long ramp to a steep corner formed by a large icicle. Another ramp leads to a steep smear. <br> |
| − | To the left of this a gully with negligible water flow forks after about 50m and either branch may give interesting climbing.. A gully further left again is of slight interest.
| + | '''Doon Burn''' Grade 3<br> |
| − | | + | Climb the burn, with a L-branching fork at the top.<br> |
| − | == BARAVORE ==
| + | D. Woodward, B. Mallon. 23rd Fe. 1986.<br> |
| − | Ice climbing conditions may develop at various places in and above the Baravore Valley, also known as the Fraughan Rock Glen. park at Glenmalure road end and walk up. 20-30 mins.
| + | '''D.A.''' Grade 3<br> |
| − | | + | Short step at the head of the gorge cut by Inver river.<br> |
| − | -An ice-smear (Grade II) may be found on the slabs below Great Gully on the cliff-bound north side of the valley. It is possible to finish up Great Gully itself with a short icy exit near the top.
| + | D. Woodward (solo). 29th Dec. 1986.<br> |
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| − | -'''Great Gully Ridge''' *** 140m(Grade V)
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| − | Winter Ascent 20 Jan 2013
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| − | Patrick Scanlan,Rowan Cunningham,Liam Brophy,Niall Roche.
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| − | In the cliffs to the right of Great Gully there are two well-defined long gullies which have been ascended by Ray Morrissey and Paul Kavanagh. The diagonal left-hand gully (Grade IV) has a steep poorly protected section which is the crux. The right-hand gully is steep and narrow but easier at Grade III.
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| − | Between great gully ridge and these 2 gullies there are 2 long seepage lines that form up in heavy freezes. They probably offer steep grade 5+ mixed climbing.
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| − | -Ice may also form on the low-angled slabs which sweep down from the head of the valley just above the cutover forest on its right-hand side.
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| − | -'''Ballinaskea falls'''. ** (Grade 2/3) as marked on OS sheet 56. a well defined stream that cascades through the right hand end of the north facing bluffs (on the south side of the valley). 3-4 short pitches can be linked to give up to 150m of enjoyable and involved mixed climbing. mostly waterfall ice, with good frozen turf and rock, depending on which line is chosen. escapable at multiple points.
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| − | -Approximatly 200m left of Ballinskea falls (the second gully along, and last before rounding corner to Arts Lough) contains an engaging 30m pitch of fun technical mixed climbing up a groove to the left of a long ice smeared slab which steepens at the top. poor gear. grade 2/3
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| − | -In the upper valley reaches to the south-east of Baravore there are numerous small buttresses where short ice-falls may develop. Whilst short, these pitches offer some steep technical sections and do offer some sport to those taking the Baravore route to Lugnaquillia. (Similar icy sections may be found further away above Kelly's Lough).
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| − | == GLENDALOUGH ==
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| − | Because of its relatively low altitude ice routes form rather infrequently in Glendalough. The most favourable location is
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| − | high on the shaded north-facing slopes beyond the Upper Lake on the south side of the valley where the following routes are found.
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| − | '''CLIFF GULLY''' 250m II/III | |
| − | This route is reached by a shallow stream gully and begins about half way up the side of the valley to the right of a line of cliffs. The gully is marked by a few small trees and is opposite the old mine works. The route offers relatively easy climbing over long stretches with a few steep sections, all in a surprisingly impressive mountain setting.
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| − | J. Lyons, L. Brady, January 1985.
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| − | '''CASCADE''' 200m III | |
| − | Another shallow gully to the right of the previous route leads up to this ice-smeared system of slabs and steps leading up diagonally
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| − | rightwards to the cliff-tops. The difficulties near the top depend on the exit line chosen.
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| − | J. Lyons, 23/12/1986
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| − | The next two routes are found a little further up the valley more or less directly above the mine buildings. They are fairly close to one another and approach is directly from below. The left-hand route is slightly recessed in a large amphitheatre.
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| − | '''MEMORIES OF SNOW''' 80m IV
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| − | 1 35m Climb up to gain a ramp rising rightwards. Up this past a thinly iced bulge and traverse out right too gain a good belay at a blocky wall.
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| − | 2 45m Make a long and trying traverse back left to gain the bottom right of a broad steep ice cascade. Climb this diagonally left to the base of the forbidding final ice-wall and up this to finish. Move right a few metres to belay.
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| − | J. Lyons, H. Hebblethwaite, 29/12/1995
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| − | '''COLD DANCE''' 200m IV
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| − | This route begins above a large boulder field where ice-smeared slabs again sweep up to the right. There are two steep sections over rock-bands. The first can be climbed on the left if conditions are poor; the second involves some steep climbing diagonally to the left followed by an exposed and precarious rightwards traverse to finish.
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| − | J. Lyons, H. Hebblethwaite, February 1986
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| − | '''WINTER PALACE''' 60m IV
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| − | This route is found on a broken cliff roughly opposite Twin Buttress and across the Gleanealo River where it descends rapidly to the valley floor. Scramble up over the boulder field to the base f the ice fall.
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| − | 1 30m Climb the iced up nose of rock at the bottom left side of the face about 10m right of a steep iced slab. Move right to a short thinly-iced groove; gain this and work to the base of an ice-wall.
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| − | 2 30m Gain a narrow ice ramp either directly or by bridging on the left and then climb the vertical wall above (crux). Easier climb up diagonally right leads too an obvious niche. Escape by an obvious holly tree, located beside a birch tree on a large ledge above.
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| − | J. Lyons, D. Wall, 10/1/1997
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| − | The left and right waterfalls of Twin Buttress give excellent climbing during the odd winter freeze-up. Since this crag is low-lying and south-facing a very severe period of frost is needed to bring it into condition.
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| − | '''LEFT-HAND WATERFALL''' 100m IV | |
| − | The climbing is steepest and at its most sustained in the final pitch where the usual exit line is found somewhat to the right.
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| − | Several parties including Keefe Murphy, Louis Mooney and Ian Ryan, January 1985.
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| − | A steeper and more direct line goes up the final ice-wall at grade V
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| − | Tony Burke, same day ascent.
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| − | '''RIGHT-HAND WATERFALL''' 100m IV | |
| − | Climbed in three pitches, the first pitch is steep and bold, the second pitch is rather broken and easy and the third pitch is again steep and perhaps thin; pegs, particularly blades, may be found useful or necessary on this final pitch
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| − | J. Lyons, H. Hebblethwaite, January 1986.
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| − | ==WICKLOW GAP AREA==
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| − | '''TOURLOUGH HILL'''
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| − | Numerous good quality mixed lines can form up on the steep bluffs behind Lough Nahanagan. Drive down to the power station compound and park up where seems appropriate. walk around the lake either direction, depending on what line is sought. pics can be seen here http://forum.climbing.ie/index.php/topic,64.180.html
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| − | '''North facing bluffs'''- (grid ref: 080 986) from left to right.
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| − | -The steep rocks to the very left contain some steep ice flows worth exploring.
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| − | -The left of the 3 long seepage lines provides a worthwhile mixed route. grade 3 ish. this trends leftwards from an obvious steep short waterfall at the very bottom middle of the face. some interesting sections.
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| − | | |
| − | -'''In The Groove''' takes the obvious right trending deep groove/gully with steep walls on its left. This gives excellent technical mixed climbing at around grade 3/4, depending on which options are followed at the top. approx. 60 m long? thin gear.
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| − | -'''Outside The Box''' * is a quality seepage line about 200 m to the right of 'in the groove' that starts about half way up the face and finishes at the top. about 70 m in total ?. multiple steps of about wi3 lead up to a very steep pitch of about wi4. the line continues to a final steep wi3 top out. | |
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| − | There is further interest amongst the North East facing bluffs directly behind the power station. grid ref:
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| − | | |
| − | -2 obvious lines exist at the very top of the bluffs, one a low angled slab, and a right facing corner up and left of it.
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| − | left hand route climbs at grade 3/4.
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| − | '''FAIR MOUNTAIN''' | |
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| − | A good pitch of waterfall ice forms at the bluffs (grid ref). When formed it is clearly visible from the main road as it descends from wicklow gap westward, on the left hand side. Park where a service road forks off downhill from the main road. Follow this to its end, then contour up to the obvious ice falls and smears. 20 mins. pics here- http://forum.climbing.ie/index.php/topic,64.180.html
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| − | '''Indian Winter''' | |
| − | Grade 2 ice steps lead up to the main pitch of about 15m of steep WI4 ice. easier if climbed on the right hand side. then relents again to about WI2 to the top. | |
| − | there are various other grade 2-3 short steps, both sides, worth climbing on. Lovely situation.
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| − | ==LOUGH BRAY LOWER==
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| − | 2 worthwhile climbs have been climbed in the back of the lough on the two main streams. To access, park at the roadside cottage, and walk up the roadway a little. Where possible, and before the private gates, cut off right and walk around the boundary of the property. Once past the trees, the ice comes into view on the left. 20 mins. Main flow on the left. Smaller gully on the right. pics can be seen here http://forum.climbing.ie/index.php/topic,64.165.html
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| − | -Left hand route- grade 3** A few straight forward ice Steps, followed by a Solid 15-20m ice flow, harder on the right hand side (grade 4). The gully eases off up above, but is still somewhat endearing. Brilliant formations.
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| − | -Right hand route- grade 2*. Very engaging deep gully at the start gives excellent cryptic climbing. Then up the steeper headwall to a long meandering easier angled ice flow.
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This information is taken from New Climbs 1981.
Location: follow coast road as far as Waterfoot at the mouth of the glen. Take the Ballymena Road (A 43) for approx. 3 miles. The climbs are located up on the R. The most obvious feature (even from Waterfoot) is a waterfall called the Mare's Tail,, which starts about 10m from the road on a bend with a small layby. Routes from L to R looking at the falls.
NB.It is certainly possible to climb in Glenariff more frequently than one would expect, more so than the Mournes! The falls are very wide and even if they appear to be definitely not in condition (especially on the south-facing side) step up and have a closer look!
The Mane 250ft. ll/lll
Approx. 200m R of The Mare's Tail is a disused house on the R and opposite a gate with a clearing. Scramble up to grass where you follow a faint path (which gets better) through the trees on the L bank of the stream bed. After 10 mins. you are at the waterfall.
Climb the fall with two short steep sections at the start. Descend down the path to the L.
About 1/4 mile down the road towards Waterfoot is an obvious fall high up - 'The Veil'. There is a second in the back of a deep broad gully which is hidden from the road.
Park at the end of a steep disused track leading down to valley floor or in the layby on the opposite side. Beside the layby is a field entrance. Cross the gate (3m back from the road) and enter the field on R heading up towards the falls. Follow the track until possible to get down into the river bed. The falls are obscured from vision here.
Fallout 200ft. lll/lV
Follow the river bed to a narrow section. Climb the steep icefall on the L and then the easier one above.
The Veil 300ft. lV/V
From the river bed climb the R bank through the trees to reach next and most impressive fall.
Climb the fall in three steep sections, the last one, being the hardest, was climbed on the L up 30 - 40 ft. of vertical and slightly overhanging ice to start.
Descent from the above two routes is by following the path on the L.
All routes are of top quality and highly recommended. Lengths of routes are approximate.
All routes were soloed by M. Manson and E. Cooper on 11th Jan 1982.
During a thaw there may be stonefall on 'The Mane' and 'Fallout'.
The following information is taken from New Climbs 1985.
Winter Climbs
1/. Green Bananas 50m lll
East side of Crearlagh Burn Gorge.
2/. Crearlagh Burn Step 7m lV
Step at top of burn
3/. Ardclinis Burn ll/lll
Series of short steps along length of gorge.
4/. Cushenilt Burn lll/lV
Series of steps leading to upper amphitheatre and including 'Black Fall' 13m halfway and 'The Banana Tree' , lll, 40m in centre of amphitheatre.
5/. Da 13m lll
Short step at head of valley.
6/. Grey Mare's Tails lV/V
Altnagowan Burn, cosisting of four pitches.
4a/. Delaware Slide 60m V
This climbs the icefall on the L side of the obvious deep gully which is clearly visible from the road.
Climb the fall directly, exiting through the clean-cut slot at the top.
M. Manson, B. Ireland, S. McCrory. January 1984
The Mare's Tail 110m V
For location see opening paragraph at top of page.
Descent is as for 'The Mane'.
M. Manson, B. Ireland, M. McNaught (alternate leads), D. Woodward. February 1985
The following information is taken from New Climbs 1986.
Mr. Frodo's Hairdryer 80m Grade 3
This route is located between Crearlagh Burn and Ardclinis Burn on the coast road.
Climb a steep 10m fall then weave interestingly up to a final steep step to the top.
D. Woodward, S. Glass, B. Mallon. 14th Jan. 1987.
Mirror 45m Grade 5
The steep smear on the L side of Cushentilt Burn.
A long, bold lead to finish on a grassy meadow and poor belay.
D. Woodward, S. Glass. 14th Jan. 1987.
P.O.P. 50m Grade 3
The R-hand watercourse in the upper amphitheatre of Cushentilt Burn.
D. Woodward, B. Mallon (solo). 2nd March 1986.
Easy Peasy 90m Grade 2/3
Follows the gorge cut by Black Burn in a series of short steps.
D. Woodward, B. Mallon (solo). 2nd March 1986.
Nearly 90m Grade 4.
Follows the gorge of Glassaneely Burn in a series of short steps.
B. Mallon, D. Woodward (solo). 2nd March 1986.
The Narrows 60m Grade 2/3
This follows the gorge cut by an un-named stream to south-west of 'Nearly'. The route takes a line up a narrow V-shaped gorge.
D. Woodward (solo). 2nd March 1986.
About 200m L of 'Tough'there is a wide gully. the following route takes a line halfway up the gully.
Step Left 40m Grade 3
Climb the ice smear on the L side of the gully. Difficult to start, then easier to top.
D. Woodward (solo) 17th Jan. 1987.
Tough 100m Grade 5
A prominent three-tiered ice-fall forms at the L-hand end of the main north-facing cliff. The second pitch is the crux, with anicicle fring not usually filled out. A short ramp leads to the upper pitch.
D. Woodward, G. Walker. 26th Feb. 1986.
Wimp Out 85m Grade 4
L of 'Delaware Slide' (see above, New Climbs 1985) at a small coniferous clump is a prominent wide icefall. The first pitch leads to a good belay L of the imposing icicle fringe. Traverse below this where a short steep pitch widens out into a fan-shaped upper pitch.
D. Woodward, B. Mallon. 23rd Feb. 1986.
Stepping Out 100m Grade 3
Between 'Wimp Out' and 'Slippery Steps' a ribbon of ice may sometimes form. Easier after half-height.
D. Woodward, S. McCrory (solo) 17th Jan 1987.
Slippery Steps 100m Grade 4
Route follows an un-named river north of Doon Burn. Easy first series of steps leads via a long ramp to a steep corner formed by a large icicle. Another ramp leads to a steep smear.
Doon Burn Grade 3
Climb the burn, with a L-branching fork at the top.
D. Woodward, B. Mallon. 23rd Fe. 1986.
D.A. Grade 3
Short step at the head of the gorge cut by Inver river.
D. Woodward (solo). 29th Dec. 1986.
