Difference between pages "Wicklow Winter Climbs" and "Cloonty Pruglish"

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The formation of ice in Wicklow may seem a rarity, however almost every year some form of winter climbing conditions can develop in the hills. Good ice climbing conditions may form on average every 2-3 winters, however short lived (or otherwise) they may be. Due to its easy accessibility the Wicklow mtns do provide some interest to the winter climber.
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'''Cloonty Pruglish Guide- August 2010'''
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A sustained period (10 days or so) of cold northerly through to easterly weather patterns is sufficient to start freezing groundwater and seepage lines. After this, streams and waterfalls start to freeze up. As a rule of thumb, a week of temps around freezing near sea level is enough to get the freeze cycle started. This, combined with strong winds is a recipe for good climbing. However if it is accompanied by heavy snowfall at the beginning of the cycle, the ground water can remain somewhat insulated in all but the most exposed parts, giving deep snow in the gullies not favorable for climbing. Good freeze thaw cycles can turn this to good neve, however this seems quite rare. The topography of the Wicklow hills provides very good surface run off on the steeper valley sides giving good mixed winter routes of waterfall ice and frozen turf. Routes can form from as low as the 400m contour in Glendalough area (more rare), through to the higher steep slopes of Lugnaquilla (very regulary). Out side of the obvious 'waterfall lines' that have all been climbed regularly, Wicklow offers further scope for the more adventurous type. Mixed routes, where seepage lines, frozen turf and rock come into condition can offer very worthwhile but less obvious adventures.
 
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The main areas of interest for winter climbing are Lugnaquillia, Baravore, and Glendalough.
 
  
  
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== LUGNAQUILLIA - SUMMIT AREA ==
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[[File:cloonty profile.jpeg]]
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Because of its height Lugnaquillia is more frequently snow-covered or frost-bound than other areas in Wicklow. The climbs are found on the gullies and buttresses of the North and South Prisons which flank the summit plateau. Often snowfall rapidly fills in the climbing lines covering any ice other than the most exposed parts. sustained periods of freezing temps and wind with little snowfall gives the best climbing conditions. The quickest approach  is up the track over Camarahill from the Glen of Imaal, alternatively park at the road head in Glenmalure and walk up Baravore valley.  
 
  
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'''North Prison'''
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The climbs are found above the inner corrie, the outer limit of which is marked by a moraine traversing the valley and within which is located a tiny lake or lochán. Climbers are reminded that the North Prison is within the military artillery range. firing schedules ca be found at Army Range Warden Service, Seskin School, Glen of Imaal, Tel: (045) 404653
 
  
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'''MAIN GULLY'''  200m    I
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Cloonty Pruglish, (also known as Trumpaun?) is an impressive crag situated on the western side of the Glenade valley, that runs from Manorhamilton to Bundoran, near the Sligo, Leitrim and Donegal borders. It is briefly described in the old Sligo/Leitrim/Cavan/Fermanagh guide-book. The excerpt reads “Very large and impressive East facing crag for the 21st century” !
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From just above the lochán an obvious large gully runs up to the summit plateau. It gives fairly easy but quite steep climbing, at its best when the snow has been consolidated by freeze-thaw action, a rare enough event.
 
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To the right of Main Gully there are one or two other gullies which also lead up to the summit plateau.
 
  
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'''ICEFALL ROUTE'''   150m  III
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'''ACCESS:'''
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This is a little to the left of Main Gully and starts from a groove in the rocks. The main difficulties are near the bottom where there is a short near-vertical section which could give one or two anxious moments. The route runs up more easily with some short steps for a few pitches to an avoidable iced-up corner which can give another interesting problem. There is no further water-ice above this point so continue directly up or traverse into Main Gully to finish.
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It is, fundamentally, part of the northeastern escarpment that circles the Benbulbin/Truskmore plateau. The unique features of this crag make it almost invisible from the road, unless you are looking for it. The easiest way to find it is to get a 1:50,000 OS map of the area (sheet 16) and it is clearly marked by funky contour lines, and its name at Grid ref- G783478.
 +
If traveling from the south, up through Glenade, take the first back road on the left after you pass the lake.  Follow this for about a mile, and then take a gravel road on the left, which takes you to the southern end of the feature. (Marked on the OS map by ‘Black river’) Follow this till you can go no more, ensuring to take care of Mr farmers gates. There is plenty of parking just before crossing the stream. Follow this road by foot to its end at a small quarry (15 mins), and then follow your nose up into the spectacular valley.
 +
Whilst the approach up into the valley from the other (northern) side appears more direct, it is best not to use it for the time being, as it crosses direct through a farmers fields. It isnt any shorter in time and there is not suitable parking at the roadside. It is advisable not to bring dogs as there is a lot of sheep in the area, and local farmers aren't that comfortable with it. Whilst steps have been made to generate a good relationship with the farmers, access is through private land, so could be declined at any time. Diligence and politeness to any passers by is the best approach. It has been requested that ropes not be left hanging on the crag, in fear of encouraging others!  Overnight is probably fine.
  
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'''ICESLAB Route'''   45m  III
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'''CRAG ETHOS:'''
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Start 15m down and to the left of the Icefall Route near the left side of slabs. Follow ice smears up past a perched block and finish up a series of short steps. Thread belay.
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Two recorded climbs in the valley from the 60’s are probably still waiting second ascents! One climbs the detached stack along the southern arête and was done by Emmet Goulding, Paddy O Leary, probably along with Ciaran Moore, Jem Tobin. The second 60s route tackles the massive chimney/corner on the main face. They considered the main face to be better suited to the next generation of climbers and equipment!
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J. Lyons, D. Wall 19/11/1995
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It seems that one of the reasons climbing has not been developed at this venue is the nature of the crag ‘top-out’. As the limestone ledges taper off the top and graduate into bog land, it provides a very loose, un-protectable band of potentially terrifying ground; enough to detract from any route. Further more, the nature of the rock doesn’t provide much in the way of safe, natural lower-offs, without leaving trad gear behind. This has been the main rational behind the decision to place ringbolt lower-offs at the top pitches of each route.  There is a good selection of crack lines splitting the main wall, from about hand size to hairline, offering technical climbing, on reasonable gear. The ethos of the development has been to climb lines traditionally, if possible, and equip belays with glue in ringbolts so as to provide safe retreat. In some cases, ringbolts have been placed as runners, where gear is non-existent and moves are hard, or to keep a route ‘balanced’ (ie. To keep the grade relatively consistent/safe for the entire route). There are (and will be) routes which are obviously sport lines, and have been equipped and graded so. These are lines that are otherwise un-protectable. Many of the lines have been developed with a top down approach, which is not always ideal, and some mistakes have been made with bolt placements. The intention is to keep this to an absolute minimum. A lot of work (and cost) has gone into the development thus far, which can be attributed to much effort from a handful of individuals who have had the motivation to get involved.
  
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'''MAIN CRAG ROUTE'''   75m  IV
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'''OTHER INFO'''
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This is a mixed route taking the left side of a prominent buttress starting a short distance up the boulder covered slope above the moraine marking the edge of the upper corrie. Its second pitch is hard and bold.
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The climbing style is mostly technical, thin crack and face climbing. Gear consists of tiny (rp’s etc) to medium wires and tiny to medium cams. The rock can be brittle in places, placements have ‘blown’ and handholds have snapped! The climbing has an adventurous feel and should be treated as a mountain crag. A helmet is recommended, and although loose rock has been removed, when and where appropriate, there is more. Heights of belays/lower offs haven’t been measured yet so use your own judgment when abseiling regarding distance to the ground. Generally single ropes will do, as most lines are straight up, but watch out for very sharp edges on the ledges. Perhaps trail an extra rap line until belay heights are worked out. Any such Beta is welcome to be added to route descriptions. A star denotes a good route. Whilst effort has been made to ‘clean’ routes, many crack lines will remain grubby, until further climbing traffic. It would be helpful to bring a brush and give a clean on descent. 
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J. Lyons, D. Wall, 24/1/95
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Take care on the boulder-strewn base; there are many of sharp, and wobbly blocks. Keep an eye out for great fossils; I have seen a Seahorse somewhere! Nice picturesque camping exists on the southern end of Glenade lough at a slipway, or else just at the ruin by the ‘high security’ gate on the road up to the crag. Again, this is farmer’s land, so use discretion.
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This guide is a work in progress and is open for amendment and updating as time goes by. Just change the date at the top if an alteration is made.  
  
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There are further climbing possibilities both on this crag and on outcrops on the hillside further to the right.
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Thanks to all those who have shown interest, and made an effort to come up and get stuck in, thus far. There is room for many more……….
  
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'''South Prison'''
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ANDY  THOMPSON
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The South Prison is on the east and southern flank of the summit block and the most direct approach is via the forest tracks of the Ow Valley, starting from Aughavannagh. It can be approached from the west via the col between Slieve Maan and Lugnaquillia and then by traversing in beneath the impressive buttresses and gullies. Alternativly drop down into it from the summit.
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Ph. 086 1732197
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The South Prison contains three well-defined gullies and the last of these, the furtherest to the right is of most interest to the climber. good pics here http://forum.climbing.ie/index.php/topic,64.165.html
 
  
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'''RIGHTHAND GULLY'''  170m  II
 
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This gully sweeps up through an imposing terrain of flanking buttresses in which a streamlet provides ice build-up  which can vary from eggshell to solid. There are some icy steps and runnels, interesting without being too challenging. The exit funnel can provide interesting problems.<br>
 
  
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[[file:lug.jpg|600px]]
 
  
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'''South Prison, Righthand Gully'''
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'''COSY CORNER'''
  
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the steep wall to the right (as in the photo) offers numerous short steep mixed lines at about grade 5+ or so.
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[[File:cosy corner.jpeg]]
  
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To the left of this a gully with negligible water flow forks after about 50m and either branch may give interesting climbing.. A gully further left again is of slight interest.
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== BARAVORE ==
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On the right-hand side of the valley, the western face of ‘the stacks’, you’ll find Cosy Corner. These were the first routes developed, starting with ‘Sweet Afton’ in 2004. Just as you start to drop down out the north side you’ll see an obvious big corner on your right. Nice and sheltered from the wind, it gets afternoon sun. “High Ideals….” and “Launchpad…” are well worth seeking out.  
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Ice climbing conditions may develop at various places in and above the Baravore Valley, also known as the Fraughan Rock Glen. park at Glenmalure road end and walk up. 20-30 mins.
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Routes described left to right.
  
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-An ice-smear (Grade II) may be found on the slabs below Great Gully on the cliff-bound north side of the valley. It is possible to finish up Great Gully itself with a short icy exit near the top.
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1- ''SWEET AFTON''- '''VS'''
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The left hand wall provides one obvious route directly up to a niche at about 15 m. Lower-off (2 RB’s)
  
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-'''Great Gully Ridge''' *** 140m(Grade V)
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2- ''HIGH IDEALS & CRAZY DREAMS'' - '''E4 6a * 25m'''
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Winter Ascent 20 Jan 2013
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Takes the obvious thin crack about 5 m right of the big corner. The left route of the face. Hard thin climbing on adequate (small) gear leads to easier climbing above. Pass 1 RB and launch upwards through the overhang to the anchors 2 RB’s. Exciting!
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Patrick Scanlan,Rowan Cunningham,Liam Brophy,Niall Roche.
 
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In the cliffs to the right of Great Gully there are two well-defined long gullies which have been ascended by Ray Morrissey and Paul Kavanagh. The diagonal left-hand gully (Grade IV) has a steep poorly protected section which is the crux. The right-hand gully is steep and narrow but easier at Grade III.
 
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Between great gully ridge and these 2 gullies there are 2 long seepage lines that form up in heavy freezes. They probably offer steep grade 5+ mixed climbing.  
 
  
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-Ice may also form on the low-angled slabs which sweep down from the head of the valley just above the cutover forest on its right-hand side.  
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3- ''MIDDLE MAN''- '''E3 5b ?''' needs confirmation. 25m
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A bit vague on this. Climb leftwards up chossy looking crack/ramp, then straight up to anchors (2RB’s) past 1 welcome RB on route. Awaiting the direct start!
  
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-'''Ballinaskea falls'''. ** (Grade 2/3) as marked on OS sheet 56. a well defined stream that cascades through the right hand end of the north facing bluffs (on the south side of the valley). 3-4 short pitches can be linked to give up to 150m of enjoyable and involved mixed climbing. mostly waterfall ice, with good frozen turf and rock, depending on which line is chosen. escapable at multiple points.  
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4- ''LAUNCHPAD TO HYPERSPACE'' – '''E2 5b * 25m'''
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Zig-Zag up the arête on the right hand side of the face, past 3 RB’’s, until level with anchors of MIDDLE MAN, then traverse left. A nice, ‘sporty’ route.  
  
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-Approximatly 200m left of Ballinskea falls (the second gully along, and last before rounding corner to Arts Lough) contains an engaging 30m pitch of fun technical mixed climbing up a groove to the left of a long ice smeared slab which steepens at the top. poor gear. grade 2/3
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[[File:Kev Power on the arete of Launchpad To Hyperspace.JPG]]
  
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-In the upper valley reaches to the south-east of Baravore there are numerous small buttresses where short ice-falls may develop. Whilst short, these pitches offer some steep technical sections and do offer some sport to those taking the Baravore route to Lugnaquillia. (Similar icy sections may be found further away above Kelly's Lough).
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Kev Power on the arete of Launchpad To Hyperspace
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5- ''CHOSS MONSTER'' '''E1 5a? 30m?'''
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5 m right is another large loose looking corner. Climb the cracks on right hand wall of this until you can gain left trending corner under some roofs. Launch up crack on right hand wall to grassy ledge level with roof. 2 RB anchors.
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Not as bad as the name suggests, or it looks!
  
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== GLENDALOUGH ==
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[[File:Kev Power leading Choss Monster E1 5a.JPG]]
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Because of its relatively low altitude ice routes form rather infrequently in Glendalough. The most favourable location is
 
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high on the shaded north-facing slopes beyond the Upper Lake on the south side of the valley where the following routes are found.
 
  
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'''CLIFF GULLY'''    250m    II/III
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Kev Power leading Choss Monster, E1 5a
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This route is reached by a shallow stream gully and begins about half way up the side of the valley to the right of a line of cliffs. The gully is marked by a few small trees and is opposite the old mine works. The route offers relatively easy climbing over long stretches with a few steep sections, all in a surprisingly impressive mountain setting.
 
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J. Lyons, L. Brady, January 1985.
 
  
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'''CASCADE'''    200m    III
 
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Another shallow gully to the right of the previous route leads up to this ice-smeared system of slabs and steps leading up diagonally
 
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rightwards to the cliff-tops. The difficulties near the top depend on the exit line chosen.
 
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J. Lyons, 23/12/1986
 
  
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The next two routes are found a little further up the valley more or less directly above the mine buildings. They are fairly close to one another and approach is directly from below. The left-hand route is slightly recessed in a large amphitheatre.
 
  
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'''MEMORIES OF SNOW'''  80m  IV
 
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1 35m  Climb up to gain a ramp rising rightwards. Up this past a thinly iced bulge and traverse out right too gain a good belay at a blocky wall.
 
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2 45m Make a long and trying traverse back left to gain the bottom right of a broad steep ice cascade. Climb this diagonally left to the base of the forbidding final ice-wall and up this to finish. Move right a few metres to belay.
 
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J. Lyons, H. Hebblethwaite, 29/12/1995
 
  
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'''COLD DANCE'''   200m    IV
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'''THE MAIN FACE- Left'''
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This route  begins above a large boulder field where ice-smeared slabs again sweep up to the right. There are two steep sections over rock-bands. The first can be climbed on the left if conditions are poor; the second involves some steep climbing diagonally to the left followed by an exposed and precarious rightwards traverse to finish.
 
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J. Lyons, H. Hebblethwaite, February 1986
 
  
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'''WINTER PALACE'''  60m  IV
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[[File:main.jpeg]]
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This route is found on a broken cliff roughly opposite Twin Buttress and across the Gleanealo River where it descends rapidly to the valley floor. Scramble up over the boulder field to the base f the ice fall.
 
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1  30m  Climb the iced up nose of rock at the bottom left side of the face about 10m right of a steep iced slab. Move right to a short thinly-iced groove; gain this and work to the base of an ice-wall.
 
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2  30m Gain a narrow ice ramp either directly or by bridging on the left and then climb the vertical wall above (crux). Easier climb up diagonally right leads too an obvious niche. Escape by an obvious holly tree, located beside a birch tree on a large ledge above.
 
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J. Lyons, D. Wall, 10/1/1997
 
  
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The left and right waterfalls of Twin Buttress give excellent climbing during the odd winter freeze-up. Since this crag is low-lying and south-facing a very severe period of frost is needed to bring it into condition.
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The main face is THE reason to climb here. It is (approx) 60-70 m high and about 400m long. There are sections of good clean rock, mixed with sections of choss. A deep corner splits the face into two obvious sectors, the right of which offers somewhat less climbing options, it seems. The climbing developed thus far is on the face to the left of the corner. The first 4 routes climb the longest clean section of face with the least amount of broken ground. The face gets morning sun, and whilst the rock is quick to dry after rain, the cracks can remain slimy for longer. Still, warm, cloudy weather equals lots of midges! Routes described left to right.
  
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'''LEFT-HAND WATERFALL'''   100m    IV
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1- ''EAGLES HIGH'' - '''E3/4 6a'''
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The climbing is steepest and at its most sustained in the final pitch where the usual exit line is found somewhat to the right.
 
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Several parties including Keefe Murphy, Louis Mooney and Ian Ryan, January 1985.
 
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A steeper and more direct line goes up the final ice-wall at grade V
 
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Tony Burke, same day ascent.
 
  
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'''RIGHT-HAND WATERFALL'''    100m    IV
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The first line that was done on the main wall. Climb up and left from the base of TRIGGER HIPPY until under the obvious crackline that runs all the way to the left side of grassy ledge where a ‘triangular block’ sits 5 meters from the very top. (When standing back from the wall this block looks like an eagles head).Launch straight up past some bold wall climbing, past an obvious horizontal break, and up the crack to belay ledge (2 RB’s). Follow the crack to finish. A bit dirty, but nice. (E2 5b)
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Climbed in three pitches, the first pitch is steep and bold, the second pitch is rather broken and easy and the third pitch is again steep and perhaps thin; pegs, particularly blades, may be found useful or necessary on this final pitch
 
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J. Lyons, H. Hebblethwaite, January 1986.
 
  
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==WICKLOW GAP AREA==
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2- ''TRIGGER HIPPY'' - '''E2 5b, 7a+? *''' (Awaiting grade confirmation)
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'''TOURLOUGH HILL'''
 
  
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Numerous good quality mixed lines can form up on the steep bluffs behind Lough Nahanagan. Drive down to the power station compound and park up where seems appropriate. walk around the lake either direction, depending on what line is sought. pics can be seen here http://forum.climbing.ie/index.php/topic,64.180.html
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Climbs the obvious crack that continues from the top of a right facing corner/pillar. Nice crack climbing to belay (2 RB’s).  
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Sport Pitch- From here, a few hard moves (crux) leads to another ledge (and belay- ignore this!) and forage a way up the wall above. Nice face climbing.
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[[File:triggerhippy]]
  
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'''North facing bluffs'''- (grid ref: 080 986) from left to right.
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3- ''21st CENTURY FOX'' – '''E4 6a *'''
  
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-The steep rocks to the very left contain some steep ice flows worth exploring.
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About 5 meters right of Trigger Hippy 2 cracks almost meet at ground level. The left hand one gives hard, thin climbing. Climb through the steep lower section to easier ground and a grassy ledge. Climb the right leaning corner to belay (2RB’s). Step left, clip one RB and launch upwards through 2 more small roofs to end on the right of grassy ledge. Sustained. RP’S, small/med wires, and small cams.  
  
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-The left of the 3 long seepage lines provides a worthwhile mixed route. grade 3 ish. this trends leftwards from an obvious steep short waterfall at the very bottom middle of the face. some interesting sections.  
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4- ''WAYFERER'' – '''unclimbed'''
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The right of the two cracks that almost form a V at ground level.
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5- '''E3 5b'''
  
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-'''In The Groove''' takes the obvious right trending deep groove/gully with steep walls on its left. This gives excellent technical mixed climbing at around grade 3/4, depending on which options are followed at the top. approx. 60 m long? thin gear.
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Climbs the groove 15 m right of WAYFERER
  
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-'''Outside The Box''' * is a quality seepage line about 200 m to the right of 'in the groove' that starts about half way up the face and finishes at the top. about 70 m in total ?. multiple steps of about wi3 lead up to a very steep pitch of about wi4. the line continues to a final steep wi3 top out.  
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[[File:Kev Power on the first ascent of an E3 5b on the main face of Cloonty Pruglish.JPG]]
  
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There is further interest amongst the North East facing bluffs directly behind the power station. grid ref:
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Kev Power on the first ascent of an E3 5b on the main face of Cloonty Pruglish
  
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-2 obvious lines exist at the very top of the bluffs, one a low angled slab, and a right facing corner up and left of it.
 
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left hand route climbs at grade 3/4.
 
  
  
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'''FAIR MOUNTAIN'''
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'''THE MAIN FACE-Right'''
  
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A good pitch of waterfall ice forms at the bluffs (grid ref). When formed it is clearly visible from the main road as it descends from wicklow gap westward, on the left hand side. Park where a service road forks off downhill from the main road. Follow this to its end, then contour up to the obvious ice falls and smears. 20 mins. pics here- http://forum.climbing.ie/index.php/topic,64.180.html
 
  
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'''Indian Winter'''
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[[File:mainface right.jpeg]]
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Grade 2 ice steps lead up to the main pitch of about 15m of steep WI4 ice. easier if climbed on the right hand side. then relents again to about WI2 to the top.
 
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there are various other grade 2-3 short steps, both sides, worth climbing on. Lovely situation.
 
  
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==LOUGH BRAY LOWER==
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2 worthwhile climbs have been climbed in the back of the lough on the two main streams. To access, park at the roadside cottage, and walk up the roadway a little. Where possible, and before the private gates, cut off right and walk around the boundary of the property. Once past the trees, the ice comes into view on the left. 20 mins.  Main flow on the left. Smaller gully on the right. pics can be seen here http://forum.climbing.ie/index.php/topic,64.165.html
 
  
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-Left hand route- grade 3** A few straight forward ice Steps, followed by a Solid 15-20m ice flow, harder on the right hand side (grade 4). The gully eases off up above, but is still somewhat endearing. Brilliant formations.
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to be continued………
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--[[User:Deargmhor|Deargmhor]] 20:09, 22 October 2010 (UTC)
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-Right hand route- grade 2*. Very engaging deep gully at the start gives excellent cryptic climbing. Then up the steeper headwall to a long meandering easier angled ice flow.
 

Revision as of 20:05, 9 March 2021

Cloonty Pruglish Guide- August 2010


Cloonty profile.jpeg


Cloonty Pruglish, (also known as Trumpaun?) is an impressive crag situated on the western side of the Glenade valley, that runs from Manorhamilton to Bundoran, near the Sligo, Leitrim and Donegal borders. It is briefly described in the old Sligo/Leitrim/Cavan/Fermanagh guide-book. The excerpt reads “Very large and impressive East facing crag for the 21st century” !

ACCESS: It is, fundamentally, part of the northeastern escarpment that circles the Benbulbin/Truskmore plateau. The unique features of this crag make it almost invisible from the road, unless you are looking for it. The easiest way to find it is to get a 1:50,000 OS map of the area (sheet 16) and it is clearly marked by funky contour lines, and its name at Grid ref- G783478. If traveling from the south, up through Glenade, take the first back road on the left after you pass the lake. Follow this for about a mile, and then take a gravel road on the left, which takes you to the southern end of the feature. (Marked on the OS map by ‘Black river’) Follow this till you can go no more, ensuring to take care of Mr farmers gates. There is plenty of parking just before crossing the stream. Follow this road by foot to its end at a small quarry (15 mins), and then follow your nose up into the spectacular valley. Whilst the approach up into the valley from the other (northern) side appears more direct, it is best not to use it for the time being, as it crosses direct through a farmers fields. It isnt any shorter in time and there is not suitable parking at the roadside. It is advisable not to bring dogs as there is a lot of sheep in the area, and local farmers aren't that comfortable with it. Whilst steps have been made to generate a good relationship with the farmers, access is through private land, so could be declined at any time. Diligence and politeness to any passers by is the best approach. It has been requested that ropes not be left hanging on the crag, in fear of encouraging others! Overnight is probably fine.

CRAG ETHOS: Two recorded climbs in the valley from the 60’s are probably still waiting second ascents! One climbs the detached stack along the southern arête and was done by Emmet Goulding, Paddy O Leary, probably along with Ciaran Moore, Jem Tobin. The second 60s route tackles the massive chimney/corner on the main face. They considered the main face to be better suited to the next generation of climbers and equipment! It seems that one of the reasons climbing has not been developed at this venue is the nature of the crag ‘top-out’. As the limestone ledges taper off the top and graduate into bog land, it provides a very loose, un-protectable band of potentially terrifying ground; enough to detract from any route. Further more, the nature of the rock doesn’t provide much in the way of safe, natural lower-offs, without leaving trad gear behind. This has been the main rational behind the decision to place ringbolt lower-offs at the top pitches of each route. There is a good selection of crack lines splitting the main wall, from about hand size to hairline, offering technical climbing, on reasonable gear. The ethos of the development has been to climb lines traditionally, if possible, and equip belays with glue in ringbolts so as to provide safe retreat. In some cases, ringbolts have been placed as runners, where gear is non-existent and moves are hard, or to keep a route ‘balanced’ (ie. To keep the grade relatively consistent/safe for the entire route). There are (and will be) routes which are obviously sport lines, and have been equipped and graded so. These are lines that are otherwise un-protectable. Many of the lines have been developed with a top down approach, which is not always ideal, and some mistakes have been made with bolt placements. The intention is to keep this to an absolute minimum. A lot of work (and cost) has gone into the development thus far, which can be attributed to much effort from a handful of individuals who have had the motivation to get involved.

OTHER INFO The climbing style is mostly technical, thin crack and face climbing. Gear consists of tiny (rp’s etc) to medium wires and tiny to medium cams. The rock can be brittle in places, placements have ‘blown’ and handholds have snapped! The climbing has an adventurous feel and should be treated as a mountain crag. A helmet is recommended, and although loose rock has been removed, when and where appropriate, there is more. Heights of belays/lower offs haven’t been measured yet so use your own judgment when abseiling regarding distance to the ground. Generally single ropes will do, as most lines are straight up, but watch out for very sharp edges on the ledges. Perhaps trail an extra rap line until belay heights are worked out. Any such Beta is welcome to be added to route descriptions. A star denotes a good route. Whilst effort has been made to ‘clean’ routes, many crack lines will remain grubby, until further climbing traffic. It would be helpful to bring a brush and give a clean on descent. Take care on the boulder-strewn base; there are many of sharp, and wobbly blocks. Keep an eye out for great fossils; I have seen a Seahorse somewhere! Nice picturesque camping exists on the southern end of Glenade lough at a slipway, or else just at the ruin by the ‘high security’ gate on the road up to the crag. Again, this is farmer’s land, so use discretion. This guide is a work in progress and is open for amendment and updating as time goes by. Just change the date at the top if an alteration is made.

Thanks to all those who have shown interest, and made an effort to come up and get stuck in, thus far. There is room for many more……….

ANDY THOMPSON Ph. 086 1732197


COSY CORNER

Cosy corner.jpeg


On the right-hand side of the valley, the western face of ‘the stacks’, you’ll find Cosy Corner. These were the first routes developed, starting with ‘Sweet Afton’ in 2004. Just as you start to drop down out the north side you’ll see an obvious big corner on your right. Nice and sheltered from the wind, it gets afternoon sun. “High Ideals….” and “Launchpad…” are well worth seeking out. Routes described left to right.

1- SWEET AFTON- VS The left hand wall provides one obvious route directly up to a niche at about 15 m. Lower-off (2 RB’s)

2- HIGH IDEALS & CRAZY DREAMS - E4 6a * 25m Takes the obvious thin crack about 5 m right of the big corner. The left route of the face. Hard thin climbing on adequate (small) gear leads to easier climbing above. Pass 1 RB and launch upwards through the overhang to the anchors 2 RB’s. Exciting!

3- MIDDLE MAN- E3 5b ? needs confirmation. 25m A bit vague on this. Climb leftwards up chossy looking crack/ramp, then straight up to anchors (2RB’s) past 1 welcome RB on route. Awaiting the direct start!

4- LAUNCHPAD TO HYPERSPACE – E2 5b * 25m Zig-Zag up the arête on the right hand side of the face, past 3 RB’’s, until level with anchors of MIDDLE MAN, then traverse left. A nice, ‘sporty’ route.

Kev Power on the arete of Launchpad To Hyperspace.JPG

Kev Power on the arete of Launchpad To Hyperspace

5- CHOSS MONSTER E1 5a? 30m? 5 m right is another large loose looking corner. Climb the cracks on right hand wall of this until you can gain left trending corner under some roofs. Launch up crack on right hand wall to grassy ledge level with roof. 2 RB anchors. Not as bad as the name suggests, or it looks!

Kev Power leading Choss Monster E1 5a.JPG

Kev Power leading Choss Monster, E1 5a



THE MAIN FACE- Left

Main.jpeg

The main face is THE reason to climb here. It is (approx) 60-70 m high and about 400m long. There are sections of good clean rock, mixed with sections of choss. A deep corner splits the face into two obvious sectors, the right of which offers somewhat less climbing options, it seems. The climbing developed thus far is on the face to the left of the corner. The first 4 routes climb the longest clean section of face with the least amount of broken ground. The face gets morning sun, and whilst the rock is quick to dry after rain, the cracks can remain slimy for longer. Still, warm, cloudy weather equals lots of midges! Routes described left to right.

1- EAGLES HIGH - E3/4 6a

The first line that was done on the main wall. Climb up and left from the base of TRIGGER HIPPY until under the obvious crackline that runs all the way to the left side of grassy ledge where a ‘triangular block’ sits 5 meters from the very top. (When standing back from the wall this block looks like an eagles head).Launch straight up past some bold wall climbing, past an obvious horizontal break, and up the crack to belay ledge (2 RB’s). Follow the crack to finish. A bit dirty, but nice. (E2 5b)

2- TRIGGER HIPPY - E2 5b, 7a+? * (Awaiting grade confirmation)

Climbs the obvious crack that continues from the top of a right facing corner/pillar. Nice crack climbing to belay (2 RB’s). Sport Pitch- From here, a few hard moves (crux) leads to another ledge (and belay- ignore this!) and forage a way up the wall above. Nice face climbing. File:Triggerhippy

3- 21st CENTURY FOX – E4 6a *

About 5 meters right of Trigger Hippy 2 cracks almost meet at ground level. The left hand one gives hard, thin climbing. Climb through the steep lower section to easier ground and a grassy ledge. Climb the right leaning corner to belay (2RB’s). Step left, clip one RB and launch upwards through 2 more small roofs to end on the right of grassy ledge. Sustained. RP’S, small/med wires, and small cams.

4- WAYFERER – unclimbed The right of the two cracks that almost form a V at ground level.

5- E3 5b

Climbs the groove 15 m right of WAYFERER

Kev Power on the first ascent of an E3 5b on the main face of Cloonty Pruglish.JPG

Kev Power on the first ascent of an E3 5b on the main face of Cloonty Pruglish


THE MAIN FACE-Right


Mainface right.jpeg



to be continued……… --Deargmhor 20:09, 22 October 2010 (UTC)

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