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| − | Seven Heads lies on the coast, almost halfway between The Old Head of Kinsale and the town of Clonakilty. Sheet 87 of O.S. Discovery series. GR W 506 355
| + | #REDIRECT [[The Scalp]] |
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| − | <display_map zoom="11"> 51.57025, -8.713328~Seven Heads </display_map>
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| − | The following information is taken from New Climbs 1982 & 1984.<br/>This sandstone crag is best approached from Courtmacsherry through Butlerstown, and eventually via the track leading to the old signal tower.<br/>The climbs are short but steep and technical with much hand-jamming on sharp rock. The protection is usually good with medium-sized nuts. Large numbers of seagulls nest here in the Spring, so climbing does not start until June. Many of the climbs start at the low-water mark so care with the tides is necessary. The routes were done during 1980-82, unless otherwise stated. See figure 1 for the location of East Wall, Main Wall and the Rock Pool.
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| − | == East Wall ==
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| − | <br/>'''Surprise''' 15m S 4a.<br/>Climb the first corner L of the way down.<br/>C. O'Leary.
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| − | '''Chuckawalla''' 15m VD.<br/>Climb the stepped slab and crack 3m L of Surprise.<br/>P. Long.
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| − | '''Venturer''' 15m MS.<br/>Start: as for Chuckwalla.<br/>Climb up the R-hand side of corner which starts half-way up.<br/>P. Long.
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| − | '''Wayward''' 15m S.<br/>Start: in the corner L of Venturer.<br/>Climb R-wards until a crack is reached which is followed L-ward to the top.<br/>P. Long.
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| − | '''Grown Up Jelly Baby Maker''' 17m HVS 5a.<br/>Satrt: on the L-hand side of the steep slab L of Wayward.<br/>Climb the shallow corner for 6m. Exit L and climb directly up the slab/wall to the top. Poor protection.<br/>S. O'Riordan, D. O'Connell.
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| − | '''Decadence''' 17m VS 4c.<br/>Takes the obvious curving corner L of Wayward.<br/>Step up onto pointed block and climb the corner crack, passing a loose, but useful, hold to the top.<br/>D. O'Connell, S. O'Riordan.
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| − | '''L.O.L.R.A.S.''' S.<br/>This route takes the broken loose chimney at the far L end of the big ledge at the base of East Wall.<br/>S. O'Riordan, M. Foley.
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| − | == Main Wall ==
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| − | From the bottom R to top L is a rising ledge. This is Con's Ledge. This can be used (with great care) as a descent route. Alternatively, scramble down the L side of the wall (facing in). The L end of the wall is less affected by the tide. The climbs are described from R to L here.
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| − | '''Niamh's Diff''' 10m<br/>Start: 10m from low-water level at the R end of Con's Ledge.<br/>Climb the R-ward trending corner.
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| − | '''Birdy Loo''' 12m VD.<br/>Climb the bulge 2m L of Niam's Diff and finish up crack in the centre of the slab.<br/>S. O'Riordan.
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| − | '''Sea Spray''' 12m S 4a.<br/>Climb the overhang L of Birdy Loo at its easiest point and finish up dihedral and crack on L-hand side of the slab.<br/>P. Long.
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| − | '''Monocular''' 12m S 4a.<br/>Take the overhang on good holds and trend L-wards, finishing up crack with a circular pocket.<br/>P. Long.
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| − | '''Finger Tip Ballet''' 20m VS 4c.<br/>From the base of Con's Ledge descend westwards to a steep triangular slab.<br/>Climb the centre one of three cracks (crux) to rejoin Con's Ledge. Move slightly L and up shallow depression onto the upper wall. Exit R of small overhang.<br/>D. OConnell, S. O'Riordan.
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| − | '''Sniggering Sardine''' 27m E3 5c<br/>Start: up the third crack R of Sniggering Seal and climb R-wards to finish up L of the first crack R of Sniggering Seal. Climb the hard crack until a step L can be made to an obvious footholds below an overlap. Move up and L to a jug and then gain a ledge on the L. Continue L to the next hard crack and follow this until it ends, then step L to a foothold. Climb straight to top.<br/>K. Murphy, S. O'Sullivan. 16 Sept. 1984
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| − | '''Bishop's Move''' 20m E2 5b<br/>Start up the wide R-facing, R trending corner/crack R of The Sniggering Seal. At the overlap at the top of the crack step L onto the obvious foothold and L again to a good jug. Finish up the thinner crack.<br/>S. O' Riordan, C. Bloxham. 1983
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| − | '''The Sniggering Seal''' 20m E1 5b<br/>This route takes the second crack from the L-hand side of Main Wall.<br/>Climb a thin wall to a crack at 3m (bold) continue to a small overhang. Surmount this and follow the crack to emerge on the L edge of a sloping ramp. A short corner crack leads to the top.<br/>D. O'Connell, S. O'Riordan.
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| − | '''The Mangle''' 20m HVS 5a<br/>Climb the short L-facing corner on the L end of Main Wall for 3m to the start of a wide sharp crack. Climb the crack (crux) to a resting position and finish up final corner.<br/>D. O'Connell, S. O'Riordan.
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| − | '''Diplomatic''' 10m VD,<br/>Climb the wide broken crack on the short wall L of Main Wall.<br/>Anonymous.
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| − | '''Moonlight and Vodka''' 10m E3 5c/6a<br/>Start: takes the wall just R of Seagull's Nest.<br/>Climb directly up the wall to ledge. Climb straight up onto obvious jug and straight up on small holds to top.<br/>K. Murphy, S. O'Sullivan. 16th Sept. 1984.
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| − | '''Seagull's Nest''' 10m VD<br/>Climb slab to obvious corner at mid-height and finish up this.<br/>C. O'Leary, P. Long.
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| − | == Pool Area. ==
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| − | '''Plastered''' 7m S<br/>Takes the first corner and crack on good jams.<br/>S. O'Riordan, N. Cohalan.
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| − | On the black wall at the back of the Rock Pool there are three routes.
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| − | '''Anonimity''' 12m VD<br/>The easiest way up the black wall onto the ledge and up the easiest crack to the top.
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| − | '''Blarney''' 15m VS 4b<br/>Take the R-hand crack up the black wall to the wide ledge, then up a short crack to a second ledge and final short crack to the top.<br/>S. O'Riordan, D. O'Connell.
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| − | '''Beony''' 15m VS4b<br/>Climb the L-hand crack (crux) to the ledge and finish up L-hand cracks to the top.
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| − | '''Looking across the inlet there is a steep wall. The descent route to this area is down the western side of the obvious nose.'''
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| − | '''Battenberg & Malt''' 18m VS 4b<br/>Move east from the descent route to a series of corners and ledges.<br/>Climb these for 11m and step L into an inverted V chimney. Climb this (crux) to the top.<br/>D. O'Connell, P. Long.
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| − | '''Escape''' 20m E1 5b<br/>Start: takes the obvious crack/groove in the wall L of the descent route mentioned above. Belay at a corner on L near the high water mark.<br/>Climb up and R to base of crack. Climb this (hard to start) to top.<br/>K. Murphy, C. Bloxham. 16th Sept 1984.
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| − | West from the descent route is an obvious sentry box.
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| − | '''Piece O' Cake''' 15m S 4a<br/>Climb into sentry box and exit L onto a platform. Climb a short steep wall to finish.<br/>S. O'Riordan, D. O'Connell.
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| − | '''Birdy Snatch''' 15m VD<br/>Step down past Piece O' Cake and onto a sloping platform. Climb the stepped corner to a large ledge and finish up back wall.<br/>E. O'Flynn, S. O'Riordan.
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| − | '''Humpty Dumpty Was Pushed''' 15m VS 4c<br/>From the L edge of sloping platform climb the arete onto the ledge. Finish up crack on R-hand wall.<br/>S. O'Riordan, D. O'Connell.
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| − | '''Steppin' Out''' 15m VS 4c<br/>From the L edge of the platform swing down and into a short corner. Climb this to L edge of the ledge and continue up the L-hand side of the back wall.<br/>D. O'Connell, S. O'Riordan.
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| − | == Maps ==
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| − | '''Map to scale'''
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| − | [[File:7 heads again.png|700px|7 heads again.png]] | |
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| − | '''Rough sketch'''
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| − | [[File:7 heads.png|700px|7 heads.png]]
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