Coolrakan Quarry

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Revision as of 23:37, 2 September 2022 by Explorer (talk | contribs) (updated climbs)
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Nice Small Climbing Crag In Co.Fermanagh, With Bolted & Trad Routes available.

Drive towards the Pollagollam Coolarkan Cave Near Boho.

Some Climbs May have climbed back in the old ages,But all have be cleaned,demossed/grassed etc from 2020.

Parking Near the entrance area an a short 30 sec walk leads you into the quarry.

Just on the left is the Entrance Rock Which has the easiest routes an most bolted an climbed area.

Straight to the back of the quarry is the back wall area which has the hardiest climbing, yet to be bolted and fully cleaned to date.You can get to the top of climbs if you park on up from the entrance and pass over the fence on the left.

A walk though the trees to the left you find the left climbing area ,with more trad routes an some bolted routes, again still to be fully bolted an cleaned to date.

Just before the Back Wall Area on the right though the trees is the right wall of the quarry, a little less routes in here, you can reach the top of the routes from up near the cave.

Its Possible to abseil the Waterfall entering the cave, plenty tree at the top for anchors, rope protector needed.


Entrance Rock

Route 1 (The Loose) 2b (Bolted)

R.Bell, Bernadette Bell 2020

5m. easy climb.

Just as you enter the quarry on left you will see the first two routes,on the left is route 1,large lose boulder in rock,climb up face unto the ledges,anchor of the ring an bolt or top out to use the steel spike.

bolted route

Spikes at top for belay ,also anchor bolts / ring/s at top of route.

There is also bolts on back area for backing up any spike or top anchors.

1st route on entrance face


Route 1 (loose twin) M (Trad)

R.Bell, Bernadette Bell 2020

5m.

Follows bolted route 1 ,loads of good placements all the wall, nice easy climb.


Route 2 (The Sail) 3a (Bolted)

R.Bell, Sarah Bell 2020

5m.  Update Climb InfoSecond route on enternce face of the crag.

Just right of route 1,start the route by stepping up unto the ledge an carry on up the straight face , to trad climb ,climb the crack a little to the left.

Bolted route

Has two bolts at top for anchor or use the same spike as route 1.

Short very easy climb with plenty holds.


Route 2 (Sailors Brother) M (Trad)

5m. Nice easy climb with good gear placements to the bottom, thou less towards the top.

follows the bolted route nearly of route 2 itself.


Route 2a (The Corner) 4a (Bolted)

R.Bell, Bernadette Bell 2020

5m. Next to route 2 on the corner.

Start the climb on the small bottom ledge ,up to the two bore holes, moving to the left where you will find a nice hand hold on the corner ,step up and move back to the right ,an climb straight up to the bolted anchors or top out.

Spikes at top for belay ,also anchor bolts / ring/s at top of route.

There is also bolts on back area for backing up any spike or top anchors.


Route 2 b (Thin Line)  5a (Bolted) ***

R Bell 2021

6m.Start where there is like a ,v, shaped at the bottom ,follow small crack line then step out right on the corner ,move up to the side crack ,climb to the right and up straight face to the anchor bolts or top out.

Spikes at top for belay ,also anchor bolts / ring/s at top of route.

There is also bolts on back area for backing up any spike or top anchors.


Route 3 (Tippy Toe)  5c (Bolted) **

R.Bell 2021

6m. route next to 2b on the rock around the corner from entrance face and just before route 4.

Nice climb ,with good small holds ,an enjoyable climb.

Start on small ledge, where you can clip the 1st bolt, big hand jug hand to the left, move up to the sideway crack an climb straight to bolt anchor or again top it out.

Bolted route

Spikes at top for belay ,also anchor bolts / ring/s at top of route.

There is also bolts on back area for backing up any spike or top anchors.


Route 4 (Cosy) M (Trad) ***

R.Bell 2020

Just right of route 3 .

6m.Start below small ledge, and work way up small crack to the top and anchor with two back bolts.

Hard start becomes easier.

Another short easy climb with plentiful holds.

Using same spike as 1st routes ,or combo of the other spikes ,for anchor or belaying. also bolt anchors behind at top for back up.


Route 4a (Push Over) 3c (Bolted)

R.Bell 2021

6m.  Next to 4 and before 5.

Step up onto small ledge ,clip in 1st bolt ,climb up unto a second ledge ,and go straight up to anchor bolts or top out.

Spikes at top for belay ,also anchor bolts / ring/s at top of route.

There is also bolts on back area for backing up any spike or top anchors.


Route 4a (added trad) Nose out * Diff (Trad)

R.Bell 2022

6m.  next to 4a bolted route, and follows the crack next to the cosy on right


Route 5 (Life's Twist) 3b (Bolted)

R.Bell 2021

6m.  Just left of the overhang route ,lies a nice med level climb, follow the twisty small crack up to the top anchors ,or top out to anchor from spikes and tree behind.


Route 5a (Small Nutter) Diff (Trad)

R.Bell 2021

Get a Small Nut on the right on the overhang crack.

Then several small nuts and a hex at the top to top out.

Nice Climb with good holds . lose rock on climb.


Route 6 (overhang)  4b (Bolted)

R.Bell 2020

Next to route 5

Use the anchor bolts/ring of route 5.

Spikes at top for belay ,also anchor bolts / ring/s at top of route.

Great wee 3 star climb with nice moves.

Climb up a little using small crack to right for a foot hold an clip 1st bolt, reach up over the hanging rock to find a nice hand hold where you can pull yourself up and over unto the small ledge an clip 2rd bolt ,climb up to the anchor point of 5 for belay or anchor point

There is also bolts on back area for backing up any spike or top anchors.


Route 6a (Ray's Jug) M (Trad)

R.Bell 2020

6m.  following the overhang Route 6.

(Vandalised route)


Cruze line f6A+ (Boulder Circuit)

*1st boulder climb on this,some boy from Dublin?*

6m.  Climb the curve just after the over hang route. Nice boulder problem route.


Route 7 (What Does It Take) 5c (Bolted)

R.Bell 2021

6m. Next to the over hang route.

Straight face bit of rock , small holds, up and over the sloped rock face to anchor at top or top out.

Belay from spike or and the tree Further back.

Not fully cleaned As Yet thou has been climbed.


Route 8 (Hazelnut Cracker) 4c (Bolted)

R.Bell 2022

6.5m. Vegetated climb yet to be fully cleaned.

But is clean enough to climb, parts may be loose.

Route beside the tree at bottom To the right.

Easy to med climb,

Spikes at top for belay and or the tree behind.

Not Fully Cleaned, has been climbed


Route 8a (Bumps Away) 4a (Bolted)

R.Bell 2022

6.5m.  Left of the tree at bottom the opposite side of route 9, and just right of route 8.

Climb up some bumpy rock unto a flat rock face with small hold and top out to anchor from spike and or tree.

Not Fully Cleaned ,thou clean enough to climb, part may have loosened rock.


Inbetweener HD (Trad)

R.Bell 2022

6.5m. In-between the last two bolted routes on the side section of the entrance rock.

Top out and anchor from tree and spikes.


Route 9 (Pimples) 5b (Bolted)

R.Bell 2022

6.5m. Last of the safe climbs on the entrance rock.

Straight faced climbs ,small holds ,great climb when figured the holds out.

Belay from spike at the top ,or trees from behind also the top bolted anchor points.

Yet to be fully cleaned. thou fully climbable


All other routes back, left and right have been climbed an there is over 45 routes plus in this quarry yet to be cleaned and some bolted.


Will update when got time, on ukc you can find these an if you clean a route feel free to update.