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| − | [http://www.mountaineering.ie/news/viewdetails.asp?ID=363 Printed guidebook available here]
| + | ==Introduction== |
| | + | This is the obvious rocky headland jutting into the sea about 1km south of the main sea-cliffs at Ailladie. The limestone here is much more weathered and the climbs are short averaging about 10m but they are of good quality and very accessible for about 2-3 hours either side of low tide. They are described from left to right as you face the cliff. |
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| − | '''Carrick Mountain is situated between Ashford and Glenealy. There are a number of small single pitch crags. There is extensive Coilte forestry and a number of possible access points.'''
| + | [[File:CeannCapaillPanorama.jpg]] |
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| − | [[File:Carrick map.jpg|600px|Carrick Mountain]]
| + | '''Wall 1''' |
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| − | ====Carrick Mountain 1====
| + | ''At the right-hand side of the wall it is possible to scramble down instead of walking down the beach.'' |
| | + | [[File:Ceainn Capaill 2.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]] |
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| − | '''This little crag at grid reference T236940 lies on the eastern slopes of Carrick Mountain above an area of closely-planted forest. It has a sheltered sunny aspect and it can offer a day's climbing when Glendalough and Luggala are too wet or too cold for consideration. It does, however, suffer from seepage, and takes some time to dry after heavy rain, so bear this in mind. For a small crag it offers a good variety of routes: delicate slabs, airy chimneys, steep faces and overhanging cracks.'''
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| − | '''Head south from Dublin on the M11 (the main Dublin/Wexford road) and exit at Junction 16 (Rathnew/Wicklow), and at the roundabout in Rathnew take the road towards Rathdrum. Follow this direction to the village of Glenealy, and park in the village. Take the side-road opposite the pub and cross the bridge. A narrow road leads off left next to a small church, before the community hall. Follow this to where it ends, after one kilometre, at a forest entrance (marked Private Road). There is no parking space at the end of this road''' | + | '''THUNDER RUN''' S |
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| − | '''After crossing the barriers at the forest entrance, go straight ahead and follow the road through the eucalyptus trees as it curves up and back left to another junction. Turn right here and, after about 50m, take the narrow MTB trail striking up left. Follow this uphill, crossing another forest road en route, on reaching a second forest road turn left and pick up another MTB trail on your right, follow this to emerge at a complex junction of roads and tracks. Take the road slanting up right and after about ten minutes the crag is up on the left, hidden by trees. Watch out for a mountainbike track going up a narrow overgrown fire break on your left. There is a mature pine and a mature holly on the other side of the forest road but these are hard to pick out from all the other trees on that side. Another overgrown firebreak runs downhill between these two trees. The rising mountainbike track/fire break leads to the foot of crag within five minutes. The walk-up from Glenealy takes at least forty-five minutes.''' | + | ''B Watts, A O'Toole, P Chavez, 8th October 2022.'' |
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| − | '''Alternatively, park at the forest entrance at Aghowle and contour around the hill to the complex junction mentioned above. This route may be a bit longer but involves less height gain so the effort may be equal.''' | + | '''CINDERELLA SEARCH''' 6m HVS 5a/b<br />''I. Dillon, I. Rea, May 1991.''<br />Climb the grey bulge in the wall. Swing gymnastically over this to some square-shaped blocks and follow the crack up above. |
| | + | [[File:Ceainn Capaill 1.jpg|center|thumb]] |
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| − | '''The routes are short, varying from 8 to 20m in length. They are described from left to right and descent is easiest at the extreme left of the crag.'''
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| − | Carrick Mountain topo by Gerry Moss
| + | '''MUSSELS ABOUT''' 10m D<br />''I. Rea, I. Dillon, May 1991.''<br />The fault 4m right of Cinderella Search. |
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| − | [[Image: carrick.jpg]]
| + | '''PUTINS REVENGE''' |
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| − | '''WARMING UP''' 8m VD <br> | + | ''B Watts, A O'Toole, P Chavez,'' |
| − | Start at the left-hand end of the left-facing wall. Climb a short ramp and move left to finish. <br>
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| − | ''G. Moss, 2/6/1992''
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| − | '''SUN LOUNGING''' 9m HS(4b)<br> | + | ''8th October 2022.'' |
| − | Start 3m right of Warming Up at a short groove. Climb this past a pocket to a ledge left of furze; directly up the short wall behind to finish. <br>
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| − | ''J. Lyons, D. Wall. 14/9/2003''
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| − | '''RUNNING BEFORE THE WIND'''. 10m HS. <br> | + | '''BLUE NOSE''' 10m VD<br /> |
| − | Start just right of the previous route, at a shallow groove. Climb the groove on small holds to the ledge right of the furze. Finish up the short cracked wall above the tree. The difficulties are short but poorly protected. <br>
| + | ''I. Dillon, I. Rea, May 1991.''<br /> |
| − | ''G.Moss, B.Hannon, 23/11/1992''
| + | This is the obvious wide open groove with a steep flake. |
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| − | '''Moving around to the right, there is an unclimbed crack and groove above a spike at the left-hand edge of the overhanging face. Further right, the crack splitting the roof at it's widest point has yet to be done.''' | + | '''GABBY HAYES''' 10m S<br /> |
| | + | ''I. Rea, I. Dillon, May 1991.''<br /> |
| | + | Start on a boulder 2m right of Blue Nose, and climb steeply up the wall and finish up past a short vertical crack at the horizontal breaks. |
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| − | '''NRG'''* 13m E2(5b/5c). <br> | + | '''GET HAPPY''' 10m VS 4c<br /> |
| − | Start to the left of the deep, wide chimney, at a shallow groove. Climb the groove and the right-hand crack in the overhang above; strenuous but well protected. <br> | + | ''I. Rea, I. Dillon, May 1991.''<br /> |
| − | ''T. O'Neill, G. Moss 5/10/1996''
| + | Start 5m left of Slim Jim on top of a boulder, go straight up and finish to the right. Low in the grade with a pronounced crux at the start. |
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| − | '''SORCHAS'''. 15m VS(4b). <br> | + | '''SLIM JIM''' 10m S<br /> |
| − | Bridge up the chimney between its right-hand edge and the left wall, passing outside the chockstone. Overcoming the narrows provides an airy crux. <br>
| + | ''I. Dillon, I. Rea, May 1991.''<br /> |
| − | ''G.Moss, B.Norton. 19/9/1992.''
| + | Start 3m left of the descent gully at a brown drainage streak. Climb straight up the flake and finish out right. |
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| − | [[file:carrick2a.jpg|500px]]
| + | '''Wall 2''' |
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| − | '''Sorchas VS4b''' | + | '''BAD RIP''' 10m E1 5b<br /> |
| | + | ''I. Rea, I. Dillon, May 1991.''<br /> |
| | + | The only route on the wall which is right of the descent gully (viewing with your back to the sea). Start below the left arête of the wall, step up and climb the right-trending crack to the top. |
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| − | '''DORCHAS''' 15m D <br> | + | '''Wall 3''' |
| − | Start as for Sorchas. Move up the floor of the chimney to a step halfway along. Bridge up to finish behind the chockstone. <br>
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| − | ''G.Moss. 2/6/1992.''
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| − | '''CARRICK CRACK*''' 11m VS(4c). <br> | + | '''The right-hand side of this wall is characterised by two prominent black corners with a thin crack up the back of each and a wide fault on the left.''' |
| − | Start at the right-hand edge of the steep, narrow wall, just left of another broad chimney, below a crack. Make a difficult move to gain a sloping ledge. Climb the crack above which is strenuous, but well protected. <br>
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| − | ''B.Norton, G.Moss. 19/9/1992.'' | |
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| − | '''DOUBLE DECKER''' 15m HS(4b)<br> | + | '''PINS AND NEEDLES''' 14m VS 4c<br /> |
| − | Bridge up the flared walls of the chimney <br>
| + | ''I. Rea, I. Dillon, May 1991.''<br /> |
| − | ''J. Lyons, D. Wall. 14/9/2003'' | + | Gain the wide fault. Use this to get up to a horizontal cavern and climb out left to the next horizontal break. Climb up the nosy arête to the left of the upright flake. |
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| − | '''CARRICK ON CLIMBING'''. 15m VD <br>
| + | [[File:Hurtssogood.jpg]] |
| − | Start just right of the chimney, at the foot of a short, right trending ramp. Climb the ramp and finish up the cracked wall and the ledges above. <br>
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| − | ''B.Norton, G.Moss. 19/9/1992.''
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| − | '''GENTLE AIRS''' 18m HS(4b)<br> | + | '''HURTS SO GOOD''' 13m E1 5b<br /> |
| − | Climb the front edge of the large spike with a delicate finish. Continue up the easy broad arête. <br>
| + | ''I. Rea, I. Dillon, May 1991.''<br /> |
| − | ''J. Lyons, D. Wall. 14/9/2003'' | + | This is the prominent crack in the middle of the wall. |
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| − | [[file:carrick6.jpg|600px]]
| + | '''STREAMS OF WHISKEY''' 11m E2 5c<br /> |
| | + | ''T. Taylor, M. Flannery, 31/8/94.''<br /> |
| | + | The line directly up the centre of the wall between Hurts So Good and Stormy Monday. Fine technical climbing on small positive sharp holds. |
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| − | '''ON THE RUN''' 18m HS(4b)<br> | + | '''STORMY MONDAY''' 10m E1 5b<br /> |
| − | Start at a deep recess to the right of the spike. Climb the flake crack on the left with a strenuous pull onto the ledge. Move right onto a short slab and up this past a break to upper slab, working slightly right to finishing bulge. <br>
| + | ''I. Rea, I. Dillon, May 1991.''<br /> |
| − | ''J. Lyons, D. Wall. 14/9/2003''
| + | The thin crack 5m right of Hurts so Good. |
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| − | '''COCOONING WHORTS''' 15m HS<br> | + | '''THE WEB''' 10m VS 4c<br /> |
| − | The corner between On The Run and Garvaghy Road.<br>
| + | ''I. Dillon, I. Rea, May 1991.''<br /> |
| − | Climb the corner moving left around the overhang with some deft footwork (crux). Move right to gain the arete and climb the wall above on good holds.<br>
| + | The corner right of Stormy Monday. |
| − | ''B. Walker, W. Blanchfield 2/5/2020''
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| − | '''GARVAGHY ROAD'''. 18m VS(4c)<br> | + | '''CRAWLERS''' 8m HS 4b<br /> |
| − | Start behind the holly tree, below a narrow jammed flake at 2m. Move up to a ledge and gain the top of the flake. Difficult moves off the flake provide the crux. <br>
| + | ''I. Dillon, I. Rea, May 1991.''<br /> |
| − | ''G.Moss, T.O'Neill. 13/7/1996''
| + | This runs up the right-hand of the two corners and offers some lovely bridging. |
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| − | [[file:carrick5.jpg|600px]]
| + | '''Wall 4''' |
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| − | '''Garvaghy Road VS4c''' | + | '''SPIRALS''' 12m VD<br /> |
| | + | ''I. Dillon, I. Rea, May 1991.''<br /> |
| | + | The prominent chimney on the left-hand side of the wall. |
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| − | '''QUEEN'S HIGHWAY'''. 20m E1(5b)<br> | + | '''QUICKSTEP''' 10m HS 4b<br /> |
| − | Start 2m right of Garvaghy Road, below the left edge of the 20m slab. Climb a bulge to the foot of the slab and follow an incipient crack line 1m left of the grass-filled crack. Thin moves, poorly protected, lead to a good finish. <br>
| + | I. Dillon, I. Rea, May 1991. |
| − | ''T. O'Neill, G. Moss. 13/7/1996'' | + | This takes the stepped corner just right of Spirals and finishes out right. Be warned - it's more awkward than it seems. |
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| − | '''GLORIOUS TWELFTH'''. 20m VS(4c) <br> | + | '''THE DIVER''' 10m VS 4c<br /> |
| − | Start 2m right of Queens Highway. Climb a bulge moving right to a ledge and good nut placement below the centre of the slab. Climb straight up, at first with difficulty and then more easily, to the top. <br>
| + | ''I. Rea, I. Dillon, May 1991.''<br /> |
| − | ''G. Moss, L. Convery. 12/8/1995''
| + | To the right of Quickstep there is a large oblong boulder leaning against the wall forming a short natural tunnel. A few metres left of this there is a thin crack, difficult at first but it eases when you realise that you can bridge out onto the boulder higher up. Finish straight up. |
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| − | '''APPRENTICE BOYS''' 20m S(4a) <br> | + | '''THE QUICKENING''' 12m VS 4b<br /> |
| − | Start at a block, a few metres right of Glorious Twelfth. Good in-cut holds lead to a small bracket. Gain this (crux) and continue pleasantly to the top. <br>
| + | ''I. Dillon, I. Rea, May 1991.''<br /> |
| − | ''L. Convery, G. Moss 12/8/1995'' | + | Take a stroll through the tunnel and on the far side you'll find a large triangular niche with a horizontal black overhang. Climb the right-trending ramp and move along the ledge a bit to finish steeply up the wall on jugs. |
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| − | ====Carrick Mountain 2====
| + | '''On the right-hand side of this wall there is a right-angled corner with two deep wide cracks.''' |
| − | '''This crag (grid ref. T22759380) is a possible alternative to Barnbawn, should plans to climb on that crag during the winter months be foiled by the activity of deer hunters. It is in the same general area as Barnbawn, in the forest on the SW slope of Carrick mountain where, thankfully, no shooting is allowed. It is a very pleasant spot, south-facing, and sheltered, but it should be noted that it is not as extensive as Barnbawn.''' | |
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| − | '''The climbs are all in the lower grades, on sound rock, with good protection (small to medium nuts and/or cams useful) and, with one exception, the anchors on top are rigged using nuts and/or cams. All of which might make this a good spot for introducing beginners to the craft of trad climbing: leading, placing protection and setting up anchors on top for belays.''' | + | '''ANACONDA''' 11m VS 4c<br /> |
| | + | ''I. Dillon, I. Rea, May 1991.''<br /> |
| | + | Start 4m left of Barnacle Bill and follow the right-trending crack to a ledge. From here step right and finish up left of the corner. |
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| − | '''As an added bonus, the view of the Wicklow mountains from the top of the crag is the finest, from Croghan Kinsella on the Wicklow/Wexford border, to Lug and its satellites, to Tonlagee and Kippure and around to Djouce and the Sugarloaf. So hillwalkers could spend a pleasant interlude identifying the many summits on view.''' | + | '''BARNACLE BILL''' 10m S<br /> |
| | + | ''I. Dillon, I. Rea, May 1991.''<br /> |
| | + | This is the left-hand crack. It is awkward to start with, especially if you have short legs but gets easier as you move up. |
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| | + | '''JUST BEGINNING''' 10m S<br /> |
| | + | ''I. Dillon, I. Rea, May 1991.''<br /> |
| | + | This is the right-hand of the two cracks in the corner with the crux being an awkward lay-back at the start. |
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| − | '''APPROACH. The crag is best approached from the forest entrance near Aghgowle, grid ref. T21909360.''' | + | '''EASILY PLEASED''' 10m VS 4c<br /> |
| − | '''Travelling from Dublin, take junction 16 on the M11, signposted Wicklow/Rathnew. At the roundabout in the village of Rathnew turn right onto the R752 and follow this road through the village of Glenealy. Turn right just before the railway overbridge, onto L2116 and follow this to take a signposted minor road on the right, which leads to a forest entrance on the right. This is the main entrance/exit for large lorries drawing timber from the forest, so leave plenty of room for them to do so when parking.''' | + | ''I. Rea, I. Dillon, May 1991.''<br /> |
| | + | Start immediately right of '''JUST BEGINNING''' and pull up over an awkward bulge just left of the undercut arête. Now trend out right to the arête which you climb to the top. |
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| − | '''Go left at the T junction on the forest road and continue uphill to a complex junction (ca. 10 mins.) Continue straight ahead, with areas cleared of trees on both sides of the rising road. The crag can be seen to your left on a rocky boss west of the main ridge line of Carrick Mountain. Shortly after a radio mast comes into view a crossroads is reached. Turn left and follow this road to a turning circle at the road head. From the top left of the turning circle go down a short firebreak and follow a line of small cairns to the foot of the crag, which can seen behind a belt of mature trees. A half-hour’s pleasant walk from the car park.''' | + | '''Wall 5''' |
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| − | '''The climbs are described from right to left (east to west) as the crag is approached from this direction and I have used small crag ethics, squeezing in as many routes as possible. Descent is via a one minute walk off, down through the trees. All gradings should be regarded as rough estimates and subject to change. Gerry Moss March 2020.''' | + | '''VENUS''' 10m VS 4b<br /> |
| | + | ''I. Rea, I. Dillon, May 1991.''<br /> |
| | + | Comforting placements are missing on this wide crack 12m to the right of Easily Pleased. Follow it up to the left-hand side of the overhang and up-and-under to the top. |
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| − | [[File:Carrick 2 1.png|500px]]
| + | '''DOG ROUGH''' 14m HVS 5a<br /> |
| | + | ''I. Rea, I. Dillon, May 1991.''<br /> |
| | + | 5m right of Venus a groove runs up to a deep horizontal break. Climb up this and hand-traverse left along the break finishing up the wall above on jugs. |
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| − | '''1. Isolation Nation'''. Diff.<br> Start at the foot of a pointed block at the bottom right of the crag. From the top of the block step across onto a short sloping ramp. From the top of the ramp move up and follow the right edge to the top. Belay well back at a jammed block. | + | '''WET AND DRY''' 14m HS 4b<br /> |
| − | <br>''Gerry Moss, March 2020''
| + | ''I. Dillon, I. Rea, May 1991.''<br /> |
| | + | This starts on top of a large flat block, 3m right of Dog Rough. Follow the deep crack, which overhangs at first, to the left-hand side of the jutting overhang. Step up left to a big ledge and finish up the right-hand arête. |
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| − | '''2. Virus direst'''. Severe (mild).<br> Start as for 1. From the top of the block step across onto the bottom of a short sloping ramp. Climb up diagonally left to the foot of a shallow corner. Gain the corner (crux) and continue straight up. Belay well back at a jammed block. | + | ''Walking west from the climbs described in the 1997 guide, past the huge boulders, there is an obvious large cleft (visible from the road) and a little further on a vertical hole (which drops down to a ledge/cave in the cliff at half height over the sea). It is possible to easily down-climb to the right of this hole (looking out to sea) or make an abseil, to the base of a square arête of perfect black rock (between the cleft and the hole). This gives a pleasant route which was climbed deep water solo on the first ascent:'' |
| − | <br>''Gerry Moss, March 2020''
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| − | '''3. Polemic Pandemic'''. VD.<br> Start at the bottom left of the pointed block. Climb up bearing left for about 4m then move right into short left facing corner and straight up. | + | '''SEIZE FIRE''' 12m VS 5a *<br /> |
| − | <br>''Gerry Moss, March 2020'' | + | ''Nick Taylor 21.8.06 on-sight solo, high tide<br />'' |
| | + | The arête is climbed direct past a half height ledge to a crux near the top. Worthwhile. |
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| − | [[File:Carrick 2 2.png|500px]]
| + | ''Continuing west past the headland itself there is a west facing cliff above a tidal platform (accessible from about mid-tide). There are 2 very large overhanging prows of rock on the right side of this cliff (facing in). The wall to the right of the right-hand overhang is split by a left leaning thin crack system, taken by:'' |
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| − | '''4. Be wise, sanitise'''. Diff.<br> Start 1m left of 3. Climb up for 3m then step left onto arête and climb this to top. | + | '''LESLEY ANN''' 12m E1 5c *<br /> |
| − | <br>''Gerry Moss, March 2020''
| + | ''Nick Taylor 22/8/06 abseil inspected, unseconded. <br />'' |
| | + | The under-cut start is fierce, once established on better holds step left and continue enjoyably up the left leaning crack-line to a steep finish. Good protection, perfect rock and surprisingly good holds, an excellent climb. Climbed in increasing rain ? the ascent was still possible because the holds are pretty good, but a serious depletion of my brownie point status occurred as my girlfriend got soaked. |
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| − | '''5. Cocooners and Zoomers'''. Diff.<br> Start 1m left of 4 below a niche. Step up and pull out left and follow cracks up to just right of tree stump. | + | ''To the left of the left-hand overhang is a corner with an undercut ramp-like base:'' |
| − | <br>''Gerry Moss, March 2020''
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| − | '''6. Trump the Chump'''. HS(4a).<br> Start 2m left of 5 at the foot of a shallow right-facing cracked corner. Climb the corner, moving out left near its top, then move up to below a right-slanting crack and narrow ramp. Step up right onto the ramp then move straight up, to finish left of the tree stump. | + | '''LOVELY GIRL''' 10m V Diff <br /> |
| − | <br>''Gerry Moss, March 2020''
| + | ''Nick Taylor 21/8/06 on-sight solo<br />'' |
| | + | The undercut base of the corner is tackled most easily from the right. Carefully climb the corner on sharp and crozzly rock. |
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| − | [[File:Carrick 2.3.png|500px]]
| + | ''Between Lovely Girl and the next corner to the left is a blunt arete, with a hanging groove above an overhanging start:'' |
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| − | '''7. Dettol no cure-all'''. S.<br> Start 2m left of 6, at foot of short right-slanting crack below a bulge. Climb the bulge and move up to a ledge. Finish direct. | + | '''ROUGH KNEES''' 10m VS 5a<br /> |
| − | <br>''Gerry Moss, March 2020''
| + | ''Nick Taylor 21/8/06 on-sight solo)<br />'' |
| − | | + | About 4 metres left of Lovely Girl. A steep and strenuous start gains the hanging groove which is sharp and crozzly but much easier. |
| − | '''8. 2 meters, 6 feeters'''. Severe (mild).<br> 2m left of 7 below cracked corner. Climb the corner to below ledge with small dead tree on the left. Step across right, climb up over 2 ledges and pull up to easier ground (crux).
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| − | <br>''Gerry Moss, March 2020''
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| − | '''9. 5k – don’t stray'''. S.<br> Start 2m left of 8, below short corner. Climb the corner until level with small dead tree on the right. Move straight up from here (crux).
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| − | <br>''Gerry Moss, March 2020'' | |
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| − | '''10. Health Carers – brunt bearers'''. VS4b.<br> Start 3m right of, and down from, a small pine tree, below crack in short wall. Climb the crack and move up to a ledge below another crack in a short, impending wall. Up over this to the top.
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| − | <br>''Gerry Moss, March 2020''
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| − | [[File:Carrick 2 4.png|500px]]
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| − | '''11. Stuck at Home ÓChón'''. VS(4c).<br> Start about 12m left of 10 at the foot of a large rowan tree growing close to the face of an undercut buttress. Climb the face, on large jugs at first, the holds growing smaller with height. Belay at the pine tree.
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| − | <br>''Gerry Moss, March 2020''
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| − | '''12. Hold firm, don’t squirm'''. HS(4a).<br> Start 1m left of the large rowan tree. Climb the left edge, a steep start leading to easier climbing. Belay at the pine tree.
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| − | <br>''Gerry Moss, March 2020''
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| − | To the left of 'Hold firm, don't squirm' is a break, followed by an adjoining pear-shaped buttress.
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| − | '''13. Herd Immunity'''. VS (4c).<br>
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| − | Starts at the right-hand end of the pear-shaped buttress, next to the break. Climb the undercut with strenuous moves to a short niche. Move up to a groove and climb the groove to finish.
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| − | <br>''Gerry Galligan, Cearbhall Daly, 10 October 2020.''
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| − | ====Carrick Mountain 3====
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| − | '''A steep quarztite slab on the western slope of Carrick Mountain. Grid ref: T2315 9415. The slab is peppered with little pockets and small, flat holds and we have taken advantage of this to cram the routes in, so the topos should prove useful in identifying what’s what. The climbing is delightful but it should be noted that protection, particularly on the steeper routes, is sparse and, sometimes, difficult to place. Micro wires, small cams and offsets may prove useful. The slab faces northwest and can be chilly during spells of westerly winds, so it should not be regarded as a winter venue.'''
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| − | '''Approach. The shortest approach is from the forest entrance at Aghgowle, grid ref. T2190 9360. This is the main entrance/exit for large vehicles drawing timber from the forest, so take care not to block the gate when parking. On the forest road keep left at the first junction and left also at the crossroads. Go right, uphill, at the next junction and follow this undulating road until you top a rise and the Irish Sea comes into view straight ahead. The road dips and rises again and on the crest of this rise you come to a wide turning circle used by the lorries. Ca. 30 mins on foot to this point, less than half that if you cycle.'''
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| − | '''A few metres beyond the circle take to the steep, wide vehicle track running up the hillside on the right. The steep section is short: turn left after 50m onto a deeply rutted track that traverses the hillside. When the track runs clear of the trees on the right the slab comes into view above and the track begins to descend toward the forest road. At this point watch out for a small cairn on the right, marking the start of a narrow motorcycle track running up to the right of the slab. A little below the level of the slab a small cairn on the left marks the start of a line of cairns leading to its foot, ca. 40 mins in total on foot.'''
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| − | '''The routes are described from left to right and all grades are provisional. Several tree stumps above the slab provide convenient anchor points for routes 1 to 10, while routes 11 to 14 use the small, sturdy conifer. Descent is a walk-off to the left, facing in.'''
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| − | '''1. Aghgowle Addict'''. VD.<br> Start near the left end of the slab, below a narrow ledge at knee height. Climb, trending left to a break at left end of sloping ramp.Step up right onto ramp and move straight up from there.<br>
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| − | ''G.Moss. 10/9/20.''
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| − | '''2. Deireadh na Choillte'''. VD.<br> Start 1m right of knee height ledge, below left trending shallow cracks. From top of these step up to pocket below sloping ramp. Gain the ramp and finish direct.<br>
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| − | ''G.Moss. 10/9/20.''
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| − | '''3. Feasta gan Adhmad'''. S3c<br> Start 2m right of 2, in front of large tree stump. Climb straight up to break in the upper section and finish direct.<br>
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| − | ''C. Daly, G. Galligan, 6/9/20.''
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| − | '''4. Bealach Glas'''. HS4b.<br> Start just right of 3, below a thin fault line trending slightly right. From the top of this climb straight up to a small niche and finish direct from here.<br>
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| − | ''G. Galligan, C. Daly, 6//9/20.''
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| − | '''5. Nerve Agent'''. VS4b.<br> Start 2m right of 4 and just L of small boulder at foot of the slab. Move up and gain thin crack running up to an overlap. Straight up from here.<br>
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| − | ''G. Galligan, C. Daly, 6/9/20.''
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| − | '''6. Éminence Grise'''. HS4b.<br> Start just right of small boulder at foot of slab. A delicate start gains the thin, continuous crack line running directly up the slab. Step across left to good holds when the crack fades just below the top.<br>
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| − | ''J. Duignan, G.M. 6/9/20.''
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| − | [[image: Ck3top1.jpg]]
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| − | '''7. Ttryst'''. HS4b<br>.Start just left of a large tree stump, below a short, left trending crack at half height. Gain this and and follow a line directly up the slab.<br>
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| − | ''C. Daly, G. Galligan 6/9/20.''
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| − | [[image: CK3top2.jpg]]
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| − | '''8. Slab Happy'''. VS4b. Start 1m R of 7 and just right of the large tree stump, directly below a short, wide, broken crackline in the upper section of the slab. Climb straight up, the crux being the delicate section in the middle of the climb. Finish on good holds.<br>
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| − | ''G.Moss. 23/8/20.''
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| − | '''9. Season of Mists'''. VS4b. Start 1m right of 8, below a short vertical crack at the top of the slab. The crux is the delicate section in the middle of the climb.<br>
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| − | ''G.Moss. 23/8/20.''
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| − | '''10. Great Craic'''. VD.<br> This climb take the obvious, fistwide crackline running the full height of the slab.<br>
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| − | ''G.Moss. 23/8/20.''
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| − | '''11. An Ghaoth Aniar'''. VS4b. Start just right of rte.10. Follow a line directly up to gain a short, right trending, thin crack in the upper section of the slab.<br>
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| − | ''G.Moss. 4/9/2020.''
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| − | '''12. Stumped'''. VS4b.<br> Start 1m right of 11, in front of small tree stump. This climb takes a straight line up the slab, on small holds, finishing up via the pale upper section, with the crux at half height.<br>
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| − | ''G.Moss. 4/9/2020.''
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| − | '''13. Flying Doctor'''. S4a.<br> Start 1m right of 12, below a short, shallow, left facing corner halfway up the slab. Move up, gain a good ledge above the corner, crux, and finish more easily.<br>
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| − | ''G.Moss. 23/8/20.''
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| − | '''14. Nobrainer'''. VD.<br> Start at the right end of the slab, to the right of Flying Doctor, below a crack leading up to a ledge on its left. Climb the crack, move L to the ledge and finish up the short wall above.<br>
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| − | ''G.Moss. 10/9/20.''
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| − | [[image: Ck3top3.jpg]]
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| − | [[image: Ck3top4.jpg]]
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Introduction
This is the obvious rocky headland jutting into the sea about 1km south of the main sea-cliffs at Ailladie. The limestone here is much more weathered and the climbs are short averaging about 10m but they are of good quality and very accessible for about 2-3 hours either side of low tide. They are described from left to right as you face the cliff.
Wall 1
At the right-hand side of the wall it is possible to scramble down instead of walking down the beach.
THUNDER RUN S
B Watts, A O'Toole, P Chavez, 8th October 2022.
CINDERELLA SEARCH 6m HVS 5a/b
I. Dillon, I. Rea, May 1991.
Climb the grey bulge in the wall. Swing gymnastically over this to some square-shaped blocks and follow the crack up above.
MUSSELS ABOUT 10m D
I. Rea, I. Dillon, May 1991.
The fault 4m right of Cinderella Search.
PUTINS REVENGE
B Watts, A O'Toole, P Chavez,
8th October 2022.
BLUE NOSE 10m VD
I. Dillon, I. Rea, May 1991.
This is the obvious wide open groove with a steep flake.
GABBY HAYES 10m S
I. Rea, I. Dillon, May 1991.
Start on a boulder 2m right of Blue Nose, and climb steeply up the wall and finish up past a short vertical crack at the horizontal breaks.
GET HAPPY 10m VS 4c
I. Rea, I. Dillon, May 1991.
Start 5m left of Slim Jim on top of a boulder, go straight up and finish to the right. Low in the grade with a pronounced crux at the start.
SLIM JIM 10m S
I. Dillon, I. Rea, May 1991.
Start 3m left of the descent gully at a brown drainage streak. Climb straight up the flake and finish out right.
Wall 2
BAD RIP 10m E1 5b
I. Rea, I. Dillon, May 1991.
The only route on the wall which is right of the descent gully (viewing with your back to the sea). Start below the left arête of the wall, step up and climb the right-trending crack to the top.
Wall 3
The right-hand side of this wall is characterised by two prominent black corners with a thin crack up the back of each and a wide fault on the left.
PINS AND NEEDLES 14m VS 4c
I. Rea, I. Dillon, May 1991.
Gain the wide fault. Use this to get up to a horizontal cavern and climb out left to the next horizontal break. Climb up the nosy arête to the left of the upright flake.
HURTS SO GOOD 13m E1 5b
I. Rea, I. Dillon, May 1991.
This is the prominent crack in the middle of the wall.
STREAMS OF WHISKEY 11m E2 5c
T. Taylor, M. Flannery, 31/8/94.
The line directly up the centre of the wall between Hurts So Good and Stormy Monday. Fine technical climbing on small positive sharp holds.
STORMY MONDAY 10m E1 5b
I. Rea, I. Dillon, May 1991.
The thin crack 5m right of Hurts so Good.
THE WEB 10m VS 4c
I. Dillon, I. Rea, May 1991.
The corner right of Stormy Monday.
CRAWLERS 8m HS 4b
I. Dillon, I. Rea, May 1991.
This runs up the right-hand of the two corners and offers some lovely bridging.
Wall 4
SPIRALS 12m VD
I. Dillon, I. Rea, May 1991.
The prominent chimney on the left-hand side of the wall.
QUICKSTEP 10m HS 4b
I. Dillon, I. Rea, May 1991.
This takes the stepped corner just right of Spirals and finishes out right. Be warned - it's more awkward than it seems.
THE DIVER 10m VS 4c
I. Rea, I. Dillon, May 1991.
To the right of Quickstep there is a large oblong boulder leaning against the wall forming a short natural tunnel. A few metres left of this there is a thin crack, difficult at first but it eases when you realise that you can bridge out onto the boulder higher up. Finish straight up.
THE QUICKENING 12m VS 4b
I. Dillon, I. Rea, May 1991.
Take a stroll through the tunnel and on the far side you'll find a large triangular niche with a horizontal black overhang. Climb the right-trending ramp and move along the ledge a bit to finish steeply up the wall on jugs.
On the right-hand side of this wall there is a right-angled corner with two deep wide cracks.
ANACONDA 11m VS 4c
I. Dillon, I. Rea, May 1991.
Start 4m left of Barnacle Bill and follow the right-trending crack to a ledge. From here step right and finish up left of the corner.
BARNACLE BILL 10m S
I. Dillon, I. Rea, May 1991.
This is the left-hand crack. It is awkward to start with, especially if you have short legs but gets easier as you move up.
JUST BEGINNING 10m S
I. Dillon, I. Rea, May 1991.
This is the right-hand of the two cracks in the corner with the crux being an awkward lay-back at the start.
EASILY PLEASED 10m VS 4c
I. Rea, I. Dillon, May 1991.
Start immediately right of JUST BEGINNING and pull up over an awkward bulge just left of the undercut arête. Now trend out right to the arête which you climb to the top.
Wall 5
VENUS 10m VS 4b
I. Rea, I. Dillon, May 1991.
Comforting placements are missing on this wide crack 12m to the right of Easily Pleased. Follow it up to the left-hand side of the overhang and up-and-under to the top.
DOG ROUGH 14m HVS 5a
I. Rea, I. Dillon, May 1991.
5m right of Venus a groove runs up to a deep horizontal break. Climb up this and hand-traverse left along the break finishing up the wall above on jugs.
WET AND DRY 14m HS 4b
I. Dillon, I. Rea, May 1991.
This starts on top of a large flat block, 3m right of Dog Rough. Follow the deep crack, which overhangs at first, to the left-hand side of the jutting overhang. Step up left to a big ledge and finish up the right-hand arête.
Walking west from the climbs described in the 1997 guide, past the huge boulders, there is an obvious large cleft (visible from the road) and a little further on a vertical hole (which drops down to a ledge/cave in the cliff at half height over the sea). It is possible to easily down-climb to the right of this hole (looking out to sea) or make an abseil, to the base of a square arête of perfect black rock (between the cleft and the hole). This gives a pleasant route which was climbed deep water solo on the first ascent:
SEIZE FIRE 12m VS 5a *
Nick Taylor 21.8.06 on-sight solo, high tide
The arête is climbed direct past a half height ledge to a crux near the top. Worthwhile.
Continuing west past the headland itself there is a west facing cliff above a tidal platform (accessible from about mid-tide). There are 2 very large overhanging prows of rock on the right side of this cliff (facing in). The wall to the right of the right-hand overhang is split by a left leaning thin crack system, taken by:
LESLEY ANN 12m E1 5c *
Nick Taylor 22/8/06 abseil inspected, unseconded.
The under-cut start is fierce, once established on better holds step left and continue enjoyably up the left leaning crack-line to a steep finish. Good protection, perfect rock and surprisingly good holds, an excellent climb. Climbed in increasing rain ? the ascent was still possible because the holds are pretty good, but a serious depletion of my brownie point status occurred as my girlfriend got soaked.
To the left of the left-hand overhang is a corner with an undercut ramp-like base:
LOVELY GIRL 10m V Diff
Nick Taylor 21/8/06 on-sight solo
The undercut base of the corner is tackled most easily from the right. Carefully climb the corner on sharp and crozzly rock.
Between Lovely Girl and the next corner to the left is a blunt arete, with a hanging groove above an overhanging start:
ROUGH KNEES 10m VS 5a
Nick Taylor 21/8/06 on-sight solo)
About 4 metres left of Lovely Girl. A steep and strenuous start gains the hanging groove which is sharp and crozzly but much easier.
