Difference between pages "Ballykeefe Quarry" and "Carrick Mountain"

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==Introduction==
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[http://www.mountaineering.ie/news/viewdetails.asp?ID=363 Printed guidebook available here]
  
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'''Carrick Mountain is situated between Ashford and Glenealy. There are a number of small single pitch crags. There is extensive Coilte forestry and a number of possible access points.'''
  
[[File:IMG 20200322 173710 6~2.jpg|600px|File:IMG 20200322 173710 6~2.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200322_173710_6~2.jpg]]
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====Carrick Mountain 1====
  
Google Maps: Ballykeeffe Amphitheatre, Ballykeefe Hill, Kilmangah, Co. Kilkenny
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'''This little crag at grid reference T236940 lies on the eastern slopes of Carrick Mountain above an area of closely-planted forest. It has a sheltered sunny aspect and it can offer a day's climbing when Glendalough and Luggala are too wet or too cold for consideration. It does, however, suffer from seepage, and takes some time to dry after heavy rain, so bear this in mind. For a small crag it offers a good variety of routes: delicate slabs, airy chimneys, steep faces and overhanging cracks.'''
  
Ballykeefe Quarry is located between Kilkenny and Kilmanagh (Map Ref. 240700150900) on the R695 (on signpost) aka L26A (on 1/2 inch map Sheet 18) 7.5 miles (12 km) from Kilkenny, 5 miles (8 km) from Callan. On the way from Kilkenny, you pass through the village of Ballycallan (don't blink) in which is located the shop and pub known as 'The Pound' to which climbers usually repair. (Also recommended are Ryan's or Mc Cluskey's in Kilmanagh, two miles the far side of the quarry). The road sweeps around to the south side of the hill, covered by Ballykeefe Wood. The quarry is clearly visible from the road.
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'''Head south from Dublin on the M11 (the main Dublin/Wexford road) and exit at Junction 16(Rathnew/Wicklow), and at the roundabout in Rathnew take the road towards Rathdrum. Follow this direction to the village of Glenealy, and park in the village. Take the side-road opposite the pub and cross the bridge. A narrow road leads off left next to a small church, before the community hall. Follow this to where it ends, after one kilometer, at a forest entrance (marked Private Road). There is no parking space at the end of this road'''
  
The rock is a crinoidal packstone/wackestone Carboniferous limestone. The rock itself is very strong and has been well-cleaned by the pioneers of the routes; nevertheless, having been fractured by blasting, there is no guarantee that rain and frost might not have loosened formerly-sound holds. Exercise appropriate caution and judgement. Likewise whilst any bolts or pegs which have been placed have been so put with the best care, it behoves each new climber to make their own assessment of the soundness of these.
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'''After crossing the barriers at the forest entrance, go straight ahead and follow the road through the eucalyptus trees as it curves up and back left to another junction. Turn right here and, after about 50m, take the narrow MTB trail striking up left. Follow this uphill, crossing another forest road en route, on reaching a second forest road turn left and pick up another MTB trail on your right, follow this to emerge at a complex junction of roads and tracks. Take the road slanting up right and after about ten minutes the crag is up on the left, hidden by trees. Watch out for a narrow fire break on the left of the road, opposite a couple of mature pines on the other side. This fire break leads to the foot of crag within five minutes. The walk-up from Glenealy takes at least forty-five minutes.'''
  
Bolts have only been placed on routes that are otherwise unprotectable. They have been placed as sparingly as possible, consistent with safety. Where natural protection is available, no bolts have been placed – including those parts of bolted routes where natural gear can be placed.
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'''Alternatively, park at the forest entrance at Aghowle and contour around the hill to the complex junction (see map below). This route may be a bit longer but involves less height gain so the effort may be equal.'''
  
Any climbs bolted by locals were cleaned and inspected and climbed on top-rope prior to bolting. It is important to understand that the bolts so placed were never intended to be fallen on but rather as possible salvation in case things went wrong. It should not be assumed by any visiting climber that a bolt may be fallen on with impunity. Bolts, even if once sound, might fail due to corrosion or fatigue or other factors.
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'''The routes are short, varying from 8 to 20m in length. They are described from left to right and descent is easiest at the extreme left of the crag.'''
  
All bolts and pegs have been placed by the pioneers for their own use only. Mention of bolts in route descriptions is not an invitation to use them. Anyone else making use of these bolts or pegs does so entirely at their own risk.
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Carrick Mountain topo by Gerry Moss
  
The rock gets polished much more easily than most crags. Concern has been raised about the start of some climbs (in particular the Pigs Wall) becoming polished due to groups setting up top ropes on routes that are too hard, spending a long time at the bottom, and polishing the holds.
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[[Image: carrick.jpg]]
  
Because it is south facing and sheltered, the
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'''WARMING UP''' &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;8m&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; VD <br>
quarry is always considerably warmer than the general environment, especially from Autumn to Spring, when the sun is low in the sky. In addition, the rock dries incredibly quickly, as soon as it is no longer actually raining.
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Start at the left-hand end of the left-facing wall. Climb a short ramp and move left to finish. <br>
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''G. Moss, 2/6/1992''
  
'<nowiki/>'''New Bolts''''
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'''SUN LOUNGING'''&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;9m&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;HS(4b)<br>
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Start 3m right of Warming Up at a short groove. Climb this past a pocket to a ledge left of furze; directly up the short wall behind to finish. <br>
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''J. Lyons, D. Wall. 14/9/2003''
  
As posted in a [http://forum.climbing.ie/index.php/topic,4324.0/topicseen.html climbing.ie post (retrieved 2011-06-17)] : "it was agreed to increase the bolting on 3 of the less challenging routes to facilitate leading by less experienced climbers. This work was recently carried out by and John F Kennedy & John G O’Dwyer of ''Mid-Tipp Hillwalkers'' on routes where it is not possible to place traditional protection."
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'''RUNNING BEFORE THE WIND'''. &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;10m&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;HS. <br>
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Start just right of the previous route, at a shallow groove. Climb the groove on small holds to the ledge right of the furze. Finish up the short cracked wall above the tree. The difficulties are short but poorly protected. <br>
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''G.Moss, B.Hannon, 23/11/1992''
  
The affected routes are on the '''Left Pigs Wall''':  ''Push Your Granny'', ''Dented Ego'', and ''Bishop's Nose''.  The additional bolts have been added to each route's description.
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'''Moving around to the right, there is an unclimbed crack and groove above a spike at the left-hand edge of the overhanging face. Further right, the crack splitting the roof at it's widest point has yet to be done.'''
  
==Overview, Parking and Maps==
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'''NRG'''* &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;13m&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;E2(5b/5c). <br>
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Start to the left of the deep, wide chimney, at a shallow groove. Climb the groove and the right-hand crack in the overhang above; strenuous but well protected. <br>
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''T. O'Neill, G. Moss 5/10/1996''
  
There is a little car park at the eastern side intended for visitors to the wood; a duck through the bushes here gives instant access to the quarry. Please try to avoid parking at the quarry gateway; the gates open outwards and council lorries need to get in and out at the most unlikely times.
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'''SORCHAS'''. &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;15m&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;VS(4b). <br>
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Bridge up the chimney between its right-hand edge and the left wall, passing outside the chockstone. Overcoming the narrows provides an airy crux. <br>
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''G.Moss, B.Norton. 19/9/1992.''
  
[[File:Untitledmap.png|600px|File:Untitledmap.png|link=Special:FilePath/Untitledmap.png]]
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[[file:carrick2a.jpg|500px]]
  
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'''Sorchas VS4b'''
  
[[File:IMG 20200323 103040 7.jpg|600px|File:IMG 20200323 103040 7.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200323_103040_7.jpg]]
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'''DORCHAS''' &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;15m&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;D <br>
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Start as for Sorchas. Move up the floor of the chimney to a step halfway along. Bridge up to finish behind the chockstone. <br>
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''G.Moss. 2/6/1992.''
  
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'''CARRICK CRACK*''' &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;11m&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;VS(4c). <br>
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Start at the right-hand edge of the steep, narrow wall, just left of another broad chimney, below a crack. Make a difficult move to gain a sloping ledge. Climb the crack above which is strenuous, but well protected. <br>
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''B.Norton, G.Moss. 19/9/1992.''
  
[[File:IMG 20200323 104436 7.jpg|600px|File:IMG 20200323 104436 7.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200323_104436_7.jpg]]
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'''DOUBLE DECKER'''&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 15m&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;HS(4b)<br>
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Bridge up the flared walls of the chimney <br>
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''J. Lyons, D. Wall. 14/9/2003''
  
==Entrance Wall==
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'''CARRICK ON CLIMBING'''. &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;15m&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;VD <br>
Entrance wall runs along the road/path to where the quarry opens out. The main feature is the vee-shaped gully of Oggy. The climbing in this section is all trad climbing and offers some of the easier climbing in the quarry. There are loads of conveniently located trees at the top of the climbs for anchors and the walk down takes about a minute via a path that come out to the left of the wall. The grading is quite easy compared to some places like the Gap of Dunloe and is comparable to somewhere like Ballyryan in the Burren.
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Start just right of the chimney, at the foot of a short, right trending ramp. Climb the ramp and finish up the cracked wall and the ledges above. <br>
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''B.Norton, G.Moss. 19/9/1992.''
  
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'''GENTLE AIRS'''&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;18m&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;HS(4b)<br>
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Climb the front edge of the large spike with a delicate finish. Continue up the easy broad arête. <br>
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''J. Lyons, D. Wall. 14/9/2003''
  
[[File:Polish 20200322 213728046.jpg|600px|File:Polish 20200322 213728046.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/Polish_20200322_213728046.jpg]]
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[[file:carrick6.jpg|600px]]
  
'''Sylvester''' 9m VD<br>''G. Fogg. May '99''<br>Up corner to top. Good protection.
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'''ON THE RUN'''&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;18m&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;HS(4b)<br>
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Start at a deep recess to the right of the spike. Climb the flake crack on the left with a strenuous pull onto the ledge. Move right onto a short slab and up this past a break to upper slab, working slightly right to finishing bulge. <br>
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''J. Lyons, D. Wall. 14/9/2003''
  
'''Aristotle''' 9m HS 4b<br>''G. Fogg. May '99.''<br>1m right of Sylvester. Up centre of upper wall. Good protection.
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'''COCOONING WHORTS''' &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;15m &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;HS<br>
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The corner between On The Run and Garvaghy Road.<br>
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Climb the corner moving left around the overhang with some deft footwork (crux). Move right to gain the arete and climb the wall above on good holds.<br>
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''B. Walker, W. Blanchfield 2/5/2020''
  
'''Bill and Ben''' 9m S 4a<br>''G. Fogg. May '99.''<br>1.5m right of Sylvester. Follow crack from ground-level. Go straight up or take the right-hand fork at top. Good protection.
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'''GARVAGHY ROAD'''. &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;18m &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;VS(4c)<br>
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Start behind the holly tree, below a narrow jammed flake at 2m. Move up to a ledge and gain the top of the flake. Difficult moves off the flake provide the crux. <br>
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''G.Moss, T.O'Neill. 13/7/1996''
  
'''Grod''' 9m VD <br>''T.Sommerville and A.O'Sullivan''<br>Bad protection on easy climbing, good protection on harder climbing. Start in the middle between Bill and Oggy, go up the broken face, there is a trapped block about 1/3 the way up you can wrap a sling around. Continue up the broken section of rock until you reach the flat face. Small cam is good here. Continue up, topping out just left of the gorse bush using the alternate finish for Bill and Ben as this routes finish
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[[file:carrick5.jpg|600px]]
  
'''Plato''' 10m HS 4b<br>''G. Fogg, B. Dunne. May '99''<br>2m left of Oggy. Go straight up the broken bulge and go straight to the top. Protection from small wires and small tricam in horizontal breaks.
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'''Garvaghy Road VS4c'''
  
'''Steering Wheel''' 10m HS 4b<br>''N. Mahon '80's''<br>Up the bulge on the left side of Oggy. Tricam in borehole at top of bulge, small wires above.
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'''QUEEN'S HIGHWAY'''. &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;20m &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;E1(5b)<br>
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Start 2m right of Garvaghy Road, below the left edge of the 20m slab. Climb a bulge to the foot of the slab and follow an incipient crack line 1m left of the grass-filled crack. Thin moves, poorly protected, lead to a good finish. <br>
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''T. O'Neill, G. Moss. 13/7/1996''
  
'''Oggy and the Cockroaches''' 10m VS 4c<br>''G. Fogg, N. Eager. May '99.''<br>Bridge up the vee to the ledge and then shuffle step up your way up to the crux. Layback to get through the crux. After that its relatively easy climbing to the top. Large and Medium Hex protection but a little run-out at the crux as the crack opens out too wide for most standard gear. Good protection overall.
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'''GLORIOUS TWELFTH'''. &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;20m &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;VS(4c) <br>
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Start 2m right of Queens Highway. Climb a bulge moving right to a ledge and good nut placement below the centre of the slab. Climb straight up, at first with difficulty and then more easily, to the top. <br>
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''G. Moss, L. Convery. 12/8/1995''
  
[[File:IMG 20200322 182229 8~2.jpg|400px|File:IMG 20200322 182229 8~2.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200322_182229_8~2.jpg]]
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'''APPRENTICE BOYS''' &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;20m &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;S(4a) <br>
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Start at a block, a few metres right of Glorious Twelfth. Good in-cut holds lead to a small bracket. Gain this (crux) and continue pleasantly to the top. <br>
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''L. Convery, G. Moss 12/8/1995''
  
'''GTX''' 10m HS 4b<br>''N. Mahon. '80's''<br>Up the arête to the right side of Oggy and finish up flat face
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====Carrick Mountain 2====
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'''This crag (grid ref. T22759380) is a possible alternative to Barnbawn, should plans to climb on that crag during the winter months be foiled by the activity of deer hunters. It is in the same general area as Barnbawn, in the forest on the SW slope of Carrick mountain where, thankfully, no shooting is allowed. It is a very pleasant spot, south-facing, and sheltered, but it should be noted that it is not as extensive as Barnbawn.'''
  
'''Ford Wall''' 8m E1 5b<br>''N. Mahon. '80's.''<br>Up the flat face on left side of vee. No protection. Crux near the bottom but don't slip. Finish up grassy slope.
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'''The climbs are all in the lower grades, on sound rock, with good protection (small to medium nuts and/or cams useful) and, with one exception, the anchors on top are rigged using nuts and/or cams. All of which might make this a good spot for introducing beginners to the craft of trad climbing: leading, placing protection and setting up anchors on top for belays.'''
  
'''Lolos'''  grade??<br>''H Fogg 2005  Unrepeated.  Repeatable??<br>''Up the centre of Ford Wall, without either edge. 1bolt.
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'''As an added bonus, the view of the Wicklow mountains from the top of the crag is the finest, from Croghan Kinsella on the Wicklow/Wexford border, to Lug and its satellites, to Tonlagee and Kippure and around to Djouce and the Sugarloaf. So hillwalkers could spend a pleasant interlude identifying the many summits on view.'''
  
'''Cadet Crack''' 10m HS 4b<br>''N. Mahon. '80's.''<br>Up through mini-chimney, make your way to the right and straight up to finish
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'''APPROACH. The crag is best approached from the forest entrance near Aghgowle, grid ref. T21909360.
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Travelling from Dublin, take junction 16 on the M11, signposted Wicklow/Rathnew. At the roundabout in the village of Rathnew turn right onto the R752 and follow this road through the village of Glenealy. Turn right just before the railway overbridge, onto L2116 and follow this to take a signposted minor road on the right, which leads to a forest entrance on the right. This is the main entrance/exit for large lorries drawing timber from the forest, so leave plenty of room for them to do so when parking.'''
  
'''Rugrats''' 13m VD<br>''G. Fogg. '99.''<br>Crack at back of diedre. Trend right to finish. Good protection.
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'''Go left at the T junction on the forest road and continue uphill to a complex junction (ca. 10 mins.) Continue straight ahead, with areas cleared of trees on both sides of the rising road. Shortly after a radio mast comes into view a crossroads is reached. Turn left and follow this road to a turning circle at the road head. From the top left of the turning circle go down a short firebreak and follow a line of small cairns to the foot of the crag, which can seen behind a belt of mature trees. A half-hour’s pleasant walk from the car park.'''
  
'''Between Rugrats and Jim Crack, there is a selection of possibilities at VD.'''
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'''The climbs are described from right to left (east to west) as the crag is approached from this direction and I have used small crag ethics, squeezing in as many routes as possible. Descent is via a one minute walk off, down through the trees. All gradings should be regarded as rough estimates and subject to change. Gerry Moss March 2020.'''
  
'''Jim Crack''' 13m VD<br>''G. Fogg. '99.''<br>15m right of Rugrats. Follow crack to top. Very well protected
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[[File:Carrick 2 1.png|600px]]
  
'''Between Jim Crack and Crooked Crack, there is a selection of unprotected slab-climbing at about Severe.'''
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'''1. Isolation Nation'''. Diff.<br> Start at the foot of a pointed block at the bottom right of the crag. From the top of the block step across onto a short sloping ramp. From the top of the ramp move up and follow the right edge to the top. Belay well back at a jammed block.  
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<br>''Gerry Moss, March 2020''  
  
'''Crooked Crack''' 15m VD<br>''Tyndall. 80's.''<br>1m left of the corner. Follow crack to top. Good protection.
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'''2. Virus direst'''. Severe (mild).<br> Start as for 1. From the top of the block step across onto the bottom of a short sloping ramp. Climb up diagonally left to the foot of a shallow corner. Gain the corner (crux) and continue straight up. Belay well back at a jammed block.  
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<br>''Gerry Moss, March 2020''
  
[[File:Polish 20200323 233624468.jpg|400px|File:Polish 20200323 233624468.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/Polish_20200323_233624468.jpg]]
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'''3. Polemic Pandemic'''. VD.<br> Start at the bottom left of the pointed block. Climb up bearing left for about 4m then move right into short left facing corner and straight up.
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<br>''Gerry Moss, March 2020''
  
'''First Corner''' 15m VD<br>''Tyndall. 80's.''<br>Follow arête to top.
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[[File:Carrick 2 2.png]]
  
==Left Pigs Wall==
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'''4. Be wise, sanitise'''. Diff.<br> Start 1m left of 3. Climb up for 3m then step left onto arête and climb this to top.
When Entrance Wall ends you go around the corner and there is a small length of crag before you get to the main face of Pigs Wall.  
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<br>''Gerry Moss, March 2020''
  
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'''5. Cocooners and Zoomers'''. Diff.<br> Start 1m left of 4 below a niche. Step up and pull out left and follow cracks up to just right of tree stump.
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<br>''Gerry Moss, March 2020''
  
[[File:Polish 20200323 224327100.jpg|400px|File:Polish 20200323 224327100.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/Polish_20200323_224327100.jpg]]
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'''6. Trump the Chump'''. HS(4a).<br> Start 2m left of 5 at the foot of a shallow right-facing cracked corner. Climb the corner, moving out left near its top, then move up to below a right-slanting crack and narrow ramp. Step up right onto the ramp then move straight up, to finish left of the tree stump.
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<br>''Gerry Moss, March 2020''
  
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[[File:Carrick 2.3.png]]
  
'''Cliffhanger''' 15m HVS 5a<br>''G. Fogg, N. Eager. 15/4/99<br>''Scramble easily up the left hand side of the slope then follow up under, and find protection in the overhanging crack, beware of loose rock. N.B. ‘Loose rock’ fell down, and more was knocked down in 2020.  Route probably doesn’t exist - and wasn’t worth doing anyway.  Topo is wrong, it’s the line on the left.
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'''7. Dettol no cure-all'''. S.<br> Start 2m left of 6, at foot of short right-slanting crack below a bulge. Climb the bulge and move up to a ledge. Finish direct.
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<br>''Gerry Moss, March 2020''
  
'''Kestrel Crack''' 15m E1 5b<br>''M. Manning, T. Brophy. 80's<br>''Above ramp. Climb crack to the top (crux at 2/3 height). Protection is good but is a little tricky to arrange.
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'''8. 2 meters, 6 feeters'''. Severe (mild).<br> 2m left of 7 below cracked corner. Climb the corner to below ledge with small dead tree on the left. Step across right, climb up over 2 ledges and pull up to easier ground (crux).
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<br>''Gerry Moss, March 2020''
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'''9. 5k – don’t stray'''. S.<br> Start 2m left of 8, below short corner. Climb the corner until level with small dead tree on the right. Move straight up from here (crux).
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<br>''Gerry Moss, March 2020''
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'''10. Health Carers – brunt bearers'''. VS4b.<br> Start 3m right of, and down from, a small pine tree, below crack in short wall. Climb the crack and move up to a ledge below another crack in a short, impending wall. Up over this to the top.
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<br>''Gerry Moss, March 2020''
  
'''The Eiger Sanction''' F6a 15m HVS 5b<br>''G. Fogg. 5/8/2000<br>''Between the two cracks. Go straight up past three bolts. Crux at top.
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[[File:Carrick 2 4.png]]
  
'''Kevin's Corner''' 15m HVS 5a<br>''K. Higgins, B. Dunne, N. Mahon. 80's<br>''Start in the corner at ground-level and follow the right-hand groove to top of pillar at 6m. From here, follow the crack 0.6m to the left to top. Good protection.
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'''11. Stuck at Home ÓChón'''. VS(4c).<br> Start about 12m left of 10 at the foot of a large rowan tree growing close to the face of an undercut buttress. Climb the face, on large jugs at first, the holds growing smaller with height. Belay at the pine tree.
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<br>''Gerry Moss, March 2020''
  
==The Bay of Pigs==
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'''12. Hold firm, don’t squirm'''. HS(4a).<br> Start 1m left of the large rowan tree. Climb the left edge, a steep start leading to easier climbing. Belay at the pine tree.
'''There are eleven drill marks at ground-level counting from Kevin's Corner at left. These are helpful in locating the climbs.'''
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<br>''Gerry Moss, March 2020''
  
From Rosehip Crack on, there is a terrace. The Bay of Pigs is the bay to the left of Rosehip Crack.  
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To the left of 'Hold firm, don't squirm' is a break, followed by an adjoining pear-shaped buttress.
  
The right-hand side of the bay, where the rock rises vertically from bottom to top, has some of the hardest and most sustained climbing in the quarry and has been known since early days as The Pigs.
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'''13.  Herd Immunity'''.  VS (4c).<br>
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Starts at the right-hand end of the pear-shaped buttress, next to the break.  Climb the undercut with strenuous moves to a short niche.  Move up to a groove and climb the groove to finish.
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<br>''Gerry Galligan, Cearbhall Daly,  10 October 2020.''
  
The left-hand side of the Bay has fewer climbs but has three naturally-protected crack climbs. At ground-level, is the slightly-overhanging blank face of Street Ball Wall, so-called from the fading graffito it bears. This offers some strenuous bouldering.
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==Carrick Mountain 3==
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A steep quarztite slab on the western slope of Carrick Mountain. Grid ref: T2315 9415. The slab is peppered with little pockets and small, flat holds and we have taken advantage of this to cram the routes in, so the topos should prove useful in identifying what’s what. The climbing is delightful but it should be noted that protection, particularly on the steeper routes, is sparse and, sometimes, difficult to place. Micro wires, small cams and offsets may prove useful. The slab faces northwest and can be chilly during spells of westerly winds, so it should not be regarded as a winter venue.
  
Bouldering''<br>'''''Street Ball Traverse'''  5''<br>G. Fogg. 31/5/2000<br>''Start with both hands on arête at left, between the horizontal scars, feet on wall only. Hand-traverse to corner.
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Approach. The shortest approach is from the forest entrance at Aghgowle, grid ref. T2190 9360. This is the main entrance/exit for large vehicles drawing timber from the forest, so take care not to block the gate when parking. On the forest road keep L at the first junction and L also at the crossroads. Go R, uphill, at the next junction and follow this undulating road until you top a rise and the Irish Sea comes into view straight ahead. The road dips and rises again and on the crest of this rise you come to a wide turning circle used by the lorries. Ca. 30 mins on foot to this point, less than half that if you cycle.
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A few meters beyond the circle take to the steep, wide vehicle track running up the hillside on the R. The steep section is short: turn L after 50m onto a deeply rutted track that traverses the hillside. When the track runs clear of the trees on the R the slab comes into view above and the track begins to descend toward the forest road. At this point watch out for a small cairn on the R, marking the start of a narrow motorcycle track running up to the R of the slab. A little below the level of the slab a small cairn on the L marks the start of a line of cairns leading to its foot, ca. 40 mins in total on foot.
  
Bouldering''<br>'''''Street Ball Mantelshelf'''  5''<br>G. Fogg. 1/10/2000<br>''Mantelshelf the wall just left of its highest point.
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The routes are described from L to R and all grades are provisional. Several tree stumps above the slab provide convenient anchor points for routes 1 to 10, while routes 11 to 14 use the small, sturdy conifer. Descent is a walk-off to the L, facing in.
  
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'''1. Aghgowle Addict'''. VD.<br> Start near the L end of the slab, below a narrow ledge at knee height. Climb, trending L to a break at L end of sloping ramp.Step up R onto ramp and move straight up from there.<br>
 +
''G.Moss. 10/9/20.''
  
[[File:Polish 20200324 011149460.jpg|600px|File:Polish 20200324 011149460.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/Polish_20200324_011149460.jpg]]
+
'''2. Deireadh na Choillte'''. VD.<br> Start 1m R of knee height ledge, below L trending shallow cracks. From top of these step up to pocket below sloping ramp. Gain the ramp and finish direct.<br>
 +
''G.Moss. 10/9/20.''
  
Feel free to mark climbs
+
'''3. Feasta gan Adhmad'''. S3c<br> Start 2m R of 2, in front of large tree stump. Climb straight up to break in the upper section and finish direct.<br>
 +
''C. Daly, G. Galligan, 6/9/20.''
  
'''Kevin's Corner Direct''' F6a+ 15m<br>''G Fogg''<br>First bolted route from left on main wall.
+
'''4. Bealach Glas'''. HS4b.<br> Start just R of 3, below a thin fault line trending slightly R. From the top of this climb straight up to a small niche and finish direct from here.<br>
 +
''G. Galligan, C. Daly, 6//9/20.''
  
'''Miss Piggy''' F6b+ 15m<br>''M Daly,  G Fogg  2000.''Start at the second drill mark 1.5m past Kevins corner. from the good hold on the borehole after the second bolt, crimp slightly left on poor holds then up. easier above.
+
'''5. Nerve Agent'''. VS4b.<br> Start 2m R of 4 and just L of small boulder at foot of the slab. Move up and gain thin crack running up to an overlap. Straight up from here.<br>
 +
''G. Galligan, C. Daly, 6/9/20.''
  
'''Pigeon''' 6b+<br>''G Fogg  S Gallwey  2000''<br>Start just left of the 4th. drill-mark and follow the bolts (three). The crux is between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Above the 3rd. bolt, move right into niche and enjoy easier climbing to the top.
+
'''6. Éminence Grise'''. HS4b.<br> Start just R of small boulder at foot of slab. A delicate start gains the thin, continuous crack line running directly up the slab. Step across L to good holds when the crack fades just below the top.<br>
 +
''J. Duignan, G.M. 6/9/20.''
  
'''A Cone Ochone'''  6b+<br>''H Fogg  G Fogg 2003<br>''An eliminate - like all the routes in the quarry. No hands or feet outside the defined line for the tick.From the first bolt of ''Cats'', go straight up the narrow (0.5m) pilaster between the borehole on the left and the arete on the right.  Up the centre of the slab below the overhang [no palming on left] and finish straight up.
+
[[image: Ck3top1.jpg]]
  
'''Cats''' F6b+ 15m <br>''M Daly,  G Fogg  17/5/2000.''<br>Start at the 5th. drill-mark (left-slanting) and follow the four bolts to the top. There is a cruxy section below the second bolt and again at the fourth bolt where tired arms have to drag the climber past a bulge.
 
  
'''Animal''' F6b 15m<br>''B Dunne,  N Mahon''    <br>This is the classic hard route in the quarry,dating from the first phase of development. Originally protected by just three bolts, Start at the 7th drill-mark on the prominent bulge and go straight up. Use is often made of a rattly 'loose tooth' near the top – it hasn't come out yet – Brian. Sustained.
+
'''7. Ttryst'''. HS4b<br>.Start just L of a large tree stump, below a short, L trending crack at half height. Gain this and and follow a line directly up the slab.<br>
 +
''C. Daly, G. Galligan 6/9/20.''
  
'''The Last Pig''' F6b+ 15m<br>''G Fogg'' <br>Start at the 8th. drill-mark. Climb delicately up to 4m then follow drillmark to right. The crux is between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. A small Tricam gives protection near the top.
+
[[image: CK3top2.jpg]]
  
'''Makin Whoopee''' F6b 15m<br>''G. Fogg, B. Dunne. 27/5/2000.''<br>Start at the 10th. drill-mark (half-way up ramp). There are two bolts at the first clip, the right-hand one is in a dubious flake and ought not to be used. The crux is between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Well protected.
 
  
'''Aardvaark''' F6a 15m<br>''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 5/6/2000.''<br>Start at the 11th drill-mark (at ground-level) to cave at 6m. Follow the line of the bolts to the top, resisting the temptation to escape right.
+
'''8. Slab Happy'''. VS4b. Start 1m R of 7 and just R of the large tree stump, directly below a short, wide, broken crackline in the upper section of the slab. Climb straight up, the crux being the delicate section in the middle of the climb. Finish on good holds.<br>
 +
''G.Moss. 23/8/20.''
  
==Main Terrace==
+
'''9. Season of Mists'''. VS4b. Start 1m R of 8, below a short vertical crack at the top of the slab. The crux is the delicate section in the middle of the climb.<br>
From Rosehip Crack to the Ascent Route, the face is divided horizontally by a terrace; all the climbs along this section end at the terrace, except for a couple at the far left.
+
''G.Moss. 23/8/20.''
  
This area offers a wide selections of relatively short harder grade trad routes and interesting bolted sport climbs.
+
'''10. Great Craic'''. VD.<br> This climb take the obvious, fistwide crackline running the full height of the slab.<br>
 +
''G.Moss. 23/8/20.''
  
The Ascent Route is not a climb but a scramble up onto the terrace and is located on the far right where the terrace ends, it is one way to access the terrace where all these climbs end. Note also that there are multiple rings to absail off, one on the far right of the terrace near enough the top of the ascent route, one over to the left of the terrace and a stuck drill bit on the far left, which can be used as an anchor.
+
'''11. An Ghaoth Aniar'''. VS4b. Start just R of rte.10. Follow a line directly up to gain a short, R trending, thin crack in the upper section of the slab.<br>
 +
''G.Moss. 4/9/2020.''
  
'''Rosehip Crack''' 8m VS 5a Much harder since loss of block above the cave.<br>''M.Manning. 80's.''<br>Follow the left-trending crack easily to a cave at 6m. A bolt on the left from Aardvark can be used to protect the next (crux) move up and right to the terrace.
+
'''12. Stumped'''. VS4b.<br> Start 1m R of 11, in front of small tree stump. This climb takes a straight line up the slab, on small holds, finishing up via the pale upper section, with the crux at half height.<br>
Direct Finish 5m<br>A satisfying finish to this climb goes straight up from the belay cave and through the slit between jutting noses at top. Good protection.
+
''G.Moss. 4/9/2020.''
  
[[File:IMG 20200323 151533 7.jpg|400px|File:IMG 20200323 151533 7.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200323_151533_7.jpg]]
+
'''13. Flying Doctor'''. S4a.<br> Start 1m R of 12, below a short, shallow, L facing corner halfway up the slab. Move up, gain a good ledge above the corner, crux, and finish more easily.<br>
 +
''G.Moss. 23/8/20.''
  
'''Easy Street''' 7m 5c<br>''G. Fogg, B. Dunne 29/12/2000.''<br>Follow the first drill-mark 1.3m right of Rosehip Crack, assiduously avoiding the large flake on the left at 2.3m. The start is tricky and surmounting the bulge can be awkward. No protection. Thread belay at cave.
+
'''14. Nobrainer'''. VD.<br> Start at the R end of the slab, to the R of Flying Doctor, below a crack leading up to a ledge on its L. Climb the crack, move L to the ledge and finish up the short wall above.<br>
 +
''G.Moss. 10/9/20.''
  
'''Undercut Alley''' 7m 5c<br>''G. Fogg (Solo) 26/8/99. (After top-rope practice)''<br>Start at the 2nd drill-mark from Rosehip Crack, 1m right of Easy Street. Follow the drill-mark from ground-level using a succession of undercut holds. Then move delicately right to meet the drill-mark 0.6m to the right at 3m. No protection. Thread belay at cave.
+
[[image: Ck3top3.jpg]]
 
+
[[image: Ck3top4.jpg]]
Direct start 6a<br>''G. Fogg (Solo). 26.8.99 (after top-rope practice)''<br>It is possible to eliminate the second undercut.
 
 
 
 
 
[[File:Polish 20200324 005205715.jpg|700px|File:Polish 20200324 005205715.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/Polish_20200324_005205715.jpg]]
 
 
 
Feel free to add in more climbs to the picture, here is a start anyway. Also need a picture of Sally Crack and Ascent Route below
 
 
 
'''The Pope's Nose''' 7m HS 4b<br>''G. Fogg. 15/9/01.''<br>About 3m right of Rosehip Crack. Over obvious snout to mid-section.
 
 
 
'''The Vatican''' 7m VS 4c<br>''B. Dunne, N. Mahon. '80's''<br>2m right of The Pope's Nose. Follow drill-mark past overhanging sharp flake.
 
 
 
'''Ichabod''' 7m F6b<br>''G Fogg solo''<br>1.6m right of The Vatican. Follow the borehole straight up the centre, above the pale scar. Well-protected (two bolts).
 
 
 
'''Paradise Crack''' 7m HS 4b<br>The obvious crack on the left side of The Slab (piton).
 
 
 
'''Slab Direct''' 7m HS 4a<br>''B. Dunne, N.Mahon. 80's''<br>Climb the centre of the slab. No protection.
 
 
 
'''Slab RHS''' 7m HS 4a<br>''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.''<br>Climb the right-hand side of the slab. No protection.
 
 
 
'''Shadrach''' 7m HVS 5a<br>The first drill-mark to the right of the slab. No protection.
 
 
 
'''Meshach''' 7m HVS 5a<br>''G. Fogg (Solo). 26/9/99.''<br>The second drill-mark almost 1m right of Shadrach. No protection.
 
 
 
'''Abednego''' 7m HVS 5a<br>''G. Fogg (Solo). 26/9/99.''<br>The third drill-mark, about 0.5m right of Meshach. No protection.
 
 
 
'''Dented Ego''' 7m HS 4b<br>''26/9/99.''<br>Climb to the white corner at 3m and up.
 
[http://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php/Ballykeefe_Quarry#New_Bolts New Bolts:] Now has an additional bolt for a total of 2 bolts. No bolts were placed on the top section of the route as this can be adequately protected by traditional gear placement.
 
 
 
'''Nailbreaker''' 7m HS 4b<br>''N. Mahon, B.Dunne. 80's.''<br>1m right of Dented Ego. Climb to dark corner (bolt) then up.
 
 
 
'''Bishop's Nose''' 7m S 4a<br>''B. Dunne, N. Mahon. 80's.''<br>2m right of Nailbreaker. Climb the nose at 3m and up. No protection.
 
[http://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php/Ballykeefe_Quarry#New_Bolts New Bolts:] Previously had no protection, Now has 3 bolts
 
 
 
'''Clover''' 7m S 4a<br>''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.''<br>Corner 1m right of Bishop's Nose. No protection.
 
 
 
'''The Pooka''' 7m 6a<br>1m left of Lady Jane. Climb the blank section between the drill-mark on left and the thin crack on right using side-pulls (poor wire in crack). Mantelshelf the ledge above and easily up.
 
 
 
'''Lady Jane''' 7m HVS 5a<br>A quarry classic. Follow the cleaned crack (wire and piton protection). Although short, this is an interesting route which can be climbed by different techniques and may be found to be more difficult than it appears.
 
 
 
'''Disc''' 7m 6a+<br>Start at ground level just right of Lady Jane. Go straight up past two bolts.
 
 
 
'''Push Your Granny''' 7m HS 4c<br>Just left of Spreadeagle. Follow the right-trending drill-mark. Two bolts.
 
[http://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php/Ballykeefe_Quarry#New_Bolts New Bolts:] Now has 2 additional bolts for a total of 4 bolts.
 
 
 
'''Spreadeagle''' 7m 6b<br>An early test-piece. Start directly below drill-mark in shallow scoop. Work your way up by bridging. (3 bolts). Well protected. This route combines nicely with Widowmaker.
 
 
 
'''Cut the Tree''' 7m HS 4b<br>''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.''<br>Left of bush, past small overhang.
 
 
 
'''Sally Crack''' 20m S 4a<br>''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.''<br>2m right of Cut the Tree. Past bush at 3m to mid-section and continue to top if desired. Plenty of protection but beware of loose rock.
 
 
 
'''Ascent Route''' 14m D<br>''T. Brophy, M. Manning, 80's.''<br>Over clay-parting at ground-level and up ramp, then up left behind detached boulder. Traverse left to mid-section, making airy step-across on way.
 
 
 
==Above Main Terrace==
 
This is the section of rock above Main Terrace. You can get to it via absail from above (dont leave the path blocked) or from the ground via the ascent scramble from the right side. On the terrace itself, there is a ring bolted into the ground on the right side you can absail to the ground from and a stuck drill bit way on the left. This area represents some of the harder trad routes in the quarry.
 
 
 
Unaccountably, this section of vertical rock had been largely overlooked until, with this guide in preparation, it seemed obvious that it should be cleaned and climbed for the sake of completeness. The cleaning took place over Halloween 2000 and the removal of surprising quantities of loose rock revealed a rather attractive series of climbs from Severe to VS and with good natural protection. Very useful in this regard are small tricams or hexes for the cleaned clay-partings between the upper beds.
 
 
 
[[File:IMG 20200323 110021 1.jpg|600px|File:IMG 20200323 110021 1.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200323_110021_1.jpg]]
 
 
 
Feel free to mark climbs on this picture
 
 
 
'''Ascent Route Direct''' 7m S<br>''N. Mahon. 80's''<br>Up the drill mark in the corner at the ascent route, then to left behind willow bush and follow drill mark to top.
 
 
 
'''Feddan''' 7m VS 5a<br>''N. Eager, G. Fogg. 3/11/2000.''<br>Follow the drill mark almost 1m right of Ascent Route Direct using bouldery moves to ledge, then follow the drill mark on right to top. Tricam and nut protection.
 
 
 
'''Palatine Street''' 7m VS 4c<br>''G. Fogg, N. Eager. 3/11/2000.''<br>Follow the drill mark almost 1m right of Feddan to ledge and continue straight up the obvious shallow chimney above. Good protection.
 
 
 
'''The Whangie''' 7m S 4a<br>''G. Fogg. (Solo) 4/11/2000.''<br>Up the drill mark 1m right of Palatine Street then follow the drill mark on right to top.Good protection.
 
 
 
'''Melanophy's''' 7m HS 4b<br>''G. Fogg. (Solo). 14/11/2000.''<br>Follow the left-slanting crack and drill mark 2.5m right of The Whangie to obvious bay. Bridge up this to top. Good protection.
 
 
 
'''Visions of Johanna''' 7m HS 4b<br>''G. Fogg, N. Eager. 3/11/2000.''<br>Start at the crack-line and drill mark about 1m right of Melanophy's. Follow this and trend left to finish at the distinct vee-notch at the top.Excellent protection.
 
 
 
'''Ezekiel Saw a Wheel''' 7m VS 5a<br>''G. Fogg. (Solo). 4/11/2000.''<br>A boulder problem start and an easier finish. Start between and keep within the drill marks of Visions of Johanna and Ain't it just like the Night, below the sloping flake crack. Delicately surmount this and finish up the drill mark directly above. Be ready for the loose but captive block just below the top.
 
 
 
'''Ain't it just like the Night''' 7m HVS 5a<br>''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 12/11/2000.''<br>Start at the drill mark 1m right of Visions of Johanna, below overhanging flake at 2.5m and finish up the drill mark to the right. The first protection is in the clay parting at 2/3 height. There is a loose but captive block just below the top.
 
 
 
'''Louise''' 7m VS 4c<br>''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 14/11/2000.''<br>Start at the drill mark about 1.5m right of Ain't it just like the Night and about 1.5m left of the abseil ring and finish up the drill mark to the right.
 
 
 
'''Key Chain''' 7m HS 4b<br>''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 14/11/2000.''<br>Start above the ring and finish up the drill mark to the right.
 
 
 
'''Small talk at the wall''' 7m S 4a<br>''G.Fogg. (Solo). 23/11/2000.''<br>1m to the right of the ring. Finish up the broken corner.
 
 
 
'''Jane's Granny''' 7m S 4a<br>''B. Dunne. 80's''<br>Almost 3m right of the ring, past two small overhangs to top. Good protection.
 
 
 
'''Jane's Aunt''' 7m S 4a<br>''G. Fogg, F. O'Connell. '98.''<br>About 1m right of Jane's Granny. Up groove at top. Good protection.
 
 
 
'''Monkey's Tail''' 7m S 4a<br>''B. Dunne. 80's.''<br>4m right of Jane's Granny. To ledge and then just right of vertical brown stain to top.
 
 
 
'''Sally Crack Upper''' 7m VD<br>''T. Brophy. 80's''<br>To top to the left of Widowmaker.
 
 
 
'''Widowmaker''' 7m HVS 5b<br>''T. Brophy. 90's''<br>Easily up to top of boulder, then up the centre of the blank left-facing face. Protection in the horizontal parting.
 
 
 
==Long Traverse Ledge==
 
It is possible to traverse across from the Main Terrace to the Upper Terrace but it is not to be recommended as a slip here would be serious. It is just as simple to go along the top as ascent and descent to both terraces is easy.
 
 
 
'''Stone Pony''' 6b+<br>''G Fogg  H Fogg  2003<br>''Just right of the ascent route.  Up the middle of the blank section.  No bridging [obviously].  2 bolts.  Anchor at ledge.
 
 
 
'''Painted Lady''' 20m HVS 5a<br>''B. Dunne, H. McNamara. 80's''<br>A most enjoyable early classic. Start past the ramp to an obvious crack at paint splash and follow this to mid-section (excellent protection). From here, continue straight to top, past two bolts.
 
 
 
'''Après Mars''' 20m F6b<br>''G. Fogg. 8/10/2000.''<br>Start at the moist closed crack almost 2m right of corner of ramp to Painted Lady. Go straight up and follow the protruding drill-mark on left, past three bolts. Then up slope, past borehole (Tricam) trending right towards the white scar and follow left-leaning drill-marks to top. (2 bolts + nut in horizontal break).
 
 
 
'''Open Book''' 20m F6a<br>''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 4/3/2001.''<br>Gain the scoop at 2.5m. Bridge up this (two bolts), up past the flake (nut placement) and delicately over the rounded section to mid-way. Follow Après Mars or Knock Airport to top.
 
 
 
'''The Prow''' 20m F6b<br>''G. Fogg, C. Murphy. 14/10/2000.''<br>Start below the protruding drill-mark and go straight up to mid-way. (3 bolts). To reach top, follow line of Knock Airport.
 
 
 
'''Knock Airport''' 20m F6a+<br>''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's''<br>The groove to the right of The Prow. Climb groove (2 bolts) and over nose at 8m (sling over bar) to mid-way. Then straight to top, going straight over overhang (bolt)
 
 
 
'''Indian Summer''' 8m F6b<br>''G. Fogg, H. Fogg, B. Dunne. 22/9/02''<br>From the ledge above the first leg of Knock Airport to the top. Two bolts. A route to the top from Gecko or an alternative finish to Knock Airport.
 
 
 
'''Gecko''' 10m F7a<br>''G. Fogg, S.Gallwey.15/7/2000.''<br>''Reclimbed after loss of block, G.Fogg, S.Gallwey. 24/9/2000.''<br>This impressively blank piece of rock provides the quarry test piece. Start in the shallow vee-shaped bay below an over-jutting flat face. The original route involved a beautiful delicate balancy rock-over (the 'gecko' move) onto the face from left at the overhang. However, since the loss of a large chunk at the bottom of the overhang (thanks a lot Nigel), the approach is now, more thuggishly, straight up. Once established on the face, and with the top bolt clipped, the target is a jug high on the arête (To get full tick stick to the face and continue to chain). With this (first) good hold, you are up. Well protected (3 bolts).
 
Chain for abseil. Recently the gate was  removed by someone.
 
 
 
 
 
[[File:Polish 20200324 030732899.jpg|700px|File:Polish 20200324 030732899.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/Polish_20200324_030732899.jpg]]
 
 
 
 
 
'''Komodo''' 24m 6b+/6c<br>''G. Fogg, B. Dunne. 23/02/2001.''<br>This route is a worthy neighbour to Gecko. It takes the blunt arête at the right of the Gecko slab and follows the sharp arête above to the Long ledge. Start just left of the wet stripe. A bolt protects the awkward problem of passing the clay wayboard. With the second bolt clipped and the good hand holds above, make the committing move to easier ground and the third bolt. Move up towards the well-defined arête and bolt. A lay away gains good holds at the top of the arête; mantelshelf these. Finish comfortably up the bay (piton) below the trapped block.
 
 
 
'''Soap Gut''' 24m HS<br>''B. Dunne, N. Mahon. 80's''<br>2.5m right of Gecko. Over wet bulge, then wide crack at left of the large wedged-shaped block.From the corner at the point of this, traverse left, crossing Komodo, to follow the easy ramp to Long ledge. Move right and climb the bay as for Komodo to the top.
 
 
 
'''White Elephant Direct''' 24m 6a<br>''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.''<br>Start 1m right of the ash tree at 14m. Tradition demands a step up from right using the 'loose tooth' (another it hasn't come out yet). This part of the climb is about 5a but can easily be avoided. Then, move left to the tree at 7m, up through the vee and straight to the top past two noses. Reasonable protection can be found along the way.
 
 
 
==Upper Terrace==
 
The climbs to the right of White Elephant Direct finish at this delightful sun-drenched terrace, with glorious views and an attractive and interesting flora.
 
 
 
For belay anchors, there are some in-situ pegs (test for yourself) as well as some eye-bolts cemented into boreholes at the base of the back wall. Easiest access to this terrace is at the eastern end.
 
 
 
[[File:Polish 20200324 030732899.jpg|700px|File:Polish 20200324 030732899.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/Polish_20200324_030732899.jpg]]
 
 
 
 
 
'''Stinger''' 17m 6b<br>''M. Daly, G. Fogg. 5/6/2000.''<br>Hardest at the top (hence name). Start as for no. 57 to ledge (bolt). Then up past three bolts. Two pitons provide belay anchors.
 
 
 
'''Mt. Rushmore''' 17m 5+<br>''M. Daly, G. Fogg. 5/6/2000.''<br>Start as for White Elephant Direct From ledge, follow three bolts 2m right of Stinger. A pleasant excursion.
 
 
 
'''Apache Mountain<br>'''A highball boulder problem with a bolt, just left of the start of ''The Brendan Voyage.<br>''Up the centre of the blank section on thin layaways.
 
 
 
'''The Brendan Voyage''' 17m 5<br>''M. Daly, B. Proctar. 15/7/2000.''<br>3m right of Mt. Rushmore. From ground, go easily up the broken ramp, past the clay parting and easily up to clip the first bolt at 8m. Continue past two more bolts.
 
 
 
'''Purging Flax''' 5m HS 4c<br>''G. Fogg (Solo). 26/6/2000.''<br>2m right of the start of The Brendan Voyage. Up the brown stain past overhang to ledge.
 
 
 
'''Empire State''' 17m 6b+<br>''G. Fogg, B. Dunne. 5/6/2000.''<br>1.5m left of the ash tree at ground level. Follow the drill-mark past the 'Ballykeefe hold' at 2.5m and bolt to ledge. Piton at base of pilaster.Up this and delicately past bolt to terrace.
 
 
 
'''Blackstonia''' 15m 6b<br>''G. Fogg (Solo). 26/6/2000.''<br>3.5m right of the ash tree. Move delicately up drill-mark past bolt to easier section trending right to base (nut placement) of pale scar and right-leaning drill-mark (bolt) to terrace.
 
 
 
'''The Escalator''' 7m HVS 5a<br>''G. Fogg (Solo). 26/6/2000.''<br>3.5m right of ash tree, at start of Broken Stairs. Make a rising traverse on small holds to intersect Blackstonia at ledge.
 
 
 
'''Broken Stairs''' 21m VS 4c<br>''G. Fogg. (Solo) 26/6/2000.''<br>3.5m right of the ash tree. Follow broken corner rightwards past two bolts and nut protection in crack to first ledge. Continue up short wall past another bolt to the second ledge. Finish up the centre of the blank wall (protection in horizontal crack and in pocket near top) to terrace. Eyebolt belay at back of terrace.
 
 
 
'''The Hen's Nest''' 15m 6b+<br>''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 12/8/2000.''<br>2m right of Broken Stairs, below neat round niche at 5m. Climb straight up to niche (2 bolts) and out of it again over bulge (crux) to ledge. Finish to terrace up top of Broken Stairs.
 
 
 
'''Blood on the Tracks''' 16m 6b+<br>''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 3/3/2001.''<br>3.5m right of The Hen's Nest. A well-defined buttress about 2.5m wide has a drill-mark at its centre which starts about 2.5m above the ground and leads upwards to end in a peak at the top. From ground level at left side of ramp, climb up and follow the central drill-mark to a good blocky hold at 5m. If inspiration or resolve fails, the saddle-horn on the left-hand drill-mark provides an easy escape but the real challenge (and crux of the climb) is to finish directly up the centre (nose to the borehole). The second tier is a repeat performance. To the left is relatively easy but the climb goes straight up (second crux). Protection is from three bolts. A ringbolt at the back of the terrace provides a belay anchor.
 
 
 
'''Zig and Zag''' 15m HS<br>''N. Mahon, N. Mahon. 80's''<br>Follow jagged edge on left of smooth wall 2.3m right of Blood on the Tracks, then straight to mid way. Route uncertain at the top.
 
 
 
'''Evening Press Reissue''' 20m HS<br>''N. Mahon, N. Mahon. 80's''<br>3m right of Zig and Zag. Edge of smooth wall, past small diedre (peg) at 13m to top.
 
 
 
==Gromwell Bay==
 
 
 
[[File:IMG 20200323 104821 1.jpg|600px|File:IMG 20200323 104821 1.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200323_104821_1.jpg]]
 
 
 
Feel free to mark climbs
 
 
 
'''Twinkletoes''' 20m 6a<br>''G. Fogg, H. Fogg. 22/8/2001.''<br>Start at the blank section of rock 2m right of the left-slanting edge of Evening Press Reissue (not part of this climb!). Quality moves on thin holds leads up to the first clip. Thence, under the protruding arête and to the left past the second bolt to the ledge. From here, trend left through the diedre past peg to easy ground.
 
 
 
'''The Teaser''' 20m 6b+<br>''G. Fogg, N. Eager. 5/8/2001.''<br>Start in the middle of the bay. Easyish moves lead to the first clip, followed by the trickier crux section. From the ledge, move up and slightly left, past a poor peg, over broken rock to easy ground.
 
 
 
'''Gromwell''' 20m 6b<br>''G. Fogg, N. Eager. 3/8/2001.''<br>Start just right of the centre of the bay. Tricky moves lead to the first bolt. Continue up to the ledge and easily up the central gully to the bottom of the brown weathered wall. Climb the middle of this (natural gear).
 
 
 
==Fear Breaga Buttress==
 
 
 
 
 
[[File:IMG 20200322 174603 6.jpg|600px|File:IMG 20200322 174603 6.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200322_174603_6.jpg]]
 
 
 
Feel free to mark climbs
 
 
 
'''Fear Breaga Ascent Route''' 30m D<br>''G. Fogg. '99.''<br>Start at the left of the buttress and go up a stepped arête to 4m, then weave up and rightwards to pass behind the upstanding 'Fear Breaga' boulder to the right and then bridge up behind the detached block to gain the top. This route is little more than a scramble but needs careful navigation on the way down.
 
 
 
'''Central Crack''' 6m VD<br>''P. Melanophy, C.Flynn. 19/4/2001.''<br>Climb the crack at the back of the diedre and continue up straight over the bulge. Belay at the Fear Breaga pillar.
 
 
 
'''Fear Breaga's Toenail''' 4m Diff<br>''G. Fogg. (Solo). 18/4/99.''<br>In the little corner to the left of the rubble-slope defining the right hand side of the buttress is a sharp-edged crack. Layback this and use a side-pull to gain poorish holds on the top edge. Pull up on these and mantelshelf (crux). No protection.
 
 
 
==Four-Inch Holes==
 
'''To the right of the Fear Breaga ascent-route, just below the top, is a section of vertical rock which catches the evening sun when the rest of the quarry is in shadow. The climbs are short but worthwhile.'''
 
 
 
'''Tom Joad''' 5m VS<br>''G. Fogg, P. Melanophy. 27/1/2001.''<br>Start on the scree-slope at the projecting drill-mark 5m to the right of the corner formed by the huge detached boulder at the top of the Fear Breaga Ascent Route. Follow the drill-mark to 2.5m and then move left to the crack at the right edge of the flake (protection). Move onto the flake and continue delicately to the top.
 
 
 
'''Preacher Casey''' 5m VS<br>''G. Fogg, B. Dunne. 4/2/2001.''<br>Start at the projecting drill-mark 4m right of Fear Breaga Ascent Route, above a boulder in the scree-slope and follow the drill-mark up before moving left under the overhang.A camming-device in the vertical slot at 2m gives some protection for the balancy moves just above it. Find more protection under the overhang and then move out to clip the bolt and finish up the middle of the face above.
 
 
 
'''Jenga''' 5m S<br>''P. Melanophy, G. Fogg. 27/1/20.''<br>Climb the broken corner 5m right of Central Crack. Good protection but beware of loose rock.
 
==Potential Crag==
 
There is potential for a number of easy to moderate trad routes here. Currently the area is very dirty and there is loose rock everywhere but if someone were to make a project out of cleaning it there is the potential for a number of nice climbs. 
 
 
 
Don’t get your hopes up.  I was all over this and cleaned it around 2000.  Found nothing. (G.F.) 
 
 
 
[[File:IMG 20200322 173523 2~2.jpg|600px|File:IMG 20200322 173523 2~2.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200322_173523_2~2.jpg]]
 

Revision as of 00:02, 24 April 2021

Printed guidebook available here

Carrick Mountain is situated between Ashford and Glenealy. There are a number of small single pitch crags. There is extensive Coilte forestry and a number of possible access points.

Carrick Mountain 1

This little crag at grid reference T236940 lies on the eastern slopes of Carrick Mountain above an area of closely-planted forest. It has a sheltered sunny aspect and it can offer a day's climbing when Glendalough and Luggala are too wet or too cold for consideration. It does, however, suffer from seepage, and takes some time to dry after heavy rain, so bear this in mind. For a small crag it offers a good variety of routes: delicate slabs, airy chimneys, steep faces and overhanging cracks.

Head south from Dublin on the M11 (the main Dublin/Wexford road) and exit at Junction 16(Rathnew/Wicklow), and at the roundabout in Rathnew take the road towards Rathdrum. Follow this direction to the village of Glenealy, and park in the village. Take the side-road opposite the pub and cross the bridge. A narrow road leads off left next to a small church, before the community hall. Follow this to where it ends, after one kilometer, at a forest entrance (marked Private Road). There is no parking space at the end of this road

After crossing the barriers at the forest entrance, go straight ahead and follow the road through the eucalyptus trees as it curves up and back left to another junction. Turn right here and, after about 50m, take the narrow MTB trail striking up left. Follow this uphill, crossing another forest road en route, on reaching a second forest road turn left and pick up another MTB trail on your right, follow this to emerge at a complex junction of roads and tracks. Take the road slanting up right and after about ten minutes the crag is up on the left, hidden by trees. Watch out for a narrow fire break on the left of the road, opposite a couple of mature pines on the other side. This fire break leads to the foot of crag within five minutes. The walk-up from Glenealy takes at least forty-five minutes.

Alternatively, park at the forest entrance at Aghowle and contour around the hill to the complex junction (see map below). This route may be a bit longer but involves less height gain so the effort may be equal.

The routes are short, varying from 8 to 20m in length. They are described from left to right and descent is easiest at the extreme left of the crag.

Carrick Mountain topo by Gerry Moss

Carrick.jpg

WARMING UP     8m     VD
Start at the left-hand end of the left-facing wall. Climb a short ramp and move left to finish.
G. Moss, 2/6/1992

SUN LOUNGING    9m    HS(4b)
Start 3m right of Warming Up at a short groove. Climb this past a pocket to a ledge left of furze; directly up the short wall behind to finish.
J. Lyons, D. Wall. 14/9/2003

RUNNING BEFORE THE WIND.     10m    HS.
Start just right of the previous route, at a shallow groove. Climb the groove on small holds to the ledge right of the furze. Finish up the short cracked wall above the tree. The difficulties are short but poorly protected.
G.Moss, B.Hannon, 23/11/1992

Moving around to the right, there is an unclimbed crack and groove above a spike at the left-hand edge of the overhanging face. Further right, the crack splitting the roof at it's widest point has yet to be done.

NRG*     13m    E2(5b/5c).
Start to the left of the deep, wide chimney, at a shallow groove. Climb the groove and the right-hand crack in the overhang above; strenuous but well protected.
T. O'Neill, G. Moss 5/10/1996

SORCHAS.     15m    VS(4b).
Bridge up the chimney between its right-hand edge and the left wall, passing outside the chockstone. Overcoming the narrows provides an airy crux.
G.Moss, B.Norton. 19/9/1992.

Carrick2a.jpg

Sorchas VS4b

DORCHAS     15m    D
Start as for Sorchas. Move up the floor of the chimney to a step halfway along. Bridge up to finish behind the chockstone.
G.Moss. 2/6/1992.

CARRICK CRACK*     11m    VS(4c).
Start at the right-hand edge of the steep, narrow wall, just left of another broad chimney, below a crack. Make a difficult move to gain a sloping ledge. Climb the crack above which is strenuous, but well protected.
B.Norton, G.Moss. 19/9/1992.

DOUBLE DECKER     15m    HS(4b)
Bridge up the flared walls of the chimney
J. Lyons, D. Wall. 14/9/2003

CARRICK ON CLIMBING.     15m    VD
Start just right of the chimney, at the foot of a short, right trending ramp. Climb the ramp and finish up the cracked wall and the ledges above.
B.Norton, G.Moss. 19/9/1992.

GENTLE AIRS    18m    HS(4b)
Climb the front edge of the large spike with a delicate finish. Continue up the easy broad arête.
J. Lyons, D. Wall. 14/9/2003

Carrick6.jpg

ON THE RUN    18m    HS(4b)
Start at a deep recess to the right of the spike. Climb the flake crack on the left with a strenuous pull onto the ledge. Move right onto a short slab and up this past a break to upper slab, working slightly right to finishing bulge.
J. Lyons, D. Wall. 14/9/2003

COCOONING WHORTS     15m     HS
The corner between On The Run and Garvaghy Road.
Climb the corner moving left around the overhang with some deft footwork (crux). Move right to gain the arete and climb the wall above on good holds.
B. Walker, W. Blanchfield 2/5/2020

GARVAGHY ROAD.     18m     VS(4c)
Start behind the holly tree, below a narrow jammed flake at 2m. Move up to a ledge and gain the top of the flake. Difficult moves off the flake provide the crux.
G.Moss, T.O'Neill. 13/7/1996

Carrick5.jpg

Garvaghy Road VS4c

QUEEN'S HIGHWAY.     20m     E1(5b)
Start 2m right of Garvaghy Road, below the left edge of the 20m slab. Climb a bulge to the foot of the slab and follow an incipient crack line 1m left of the grass-filled crack. Thin moves, poorly protected, lead to a good finish.
T. O'Neill, G. Moss. 13/7/1996

GLORIOUS TWELFTH.     20m     VS(4c)
Start 2m right of Queens Highway. Climb a bulge moving right to a ledge and good nut placement below the centre of the slab. Climb straight up, at first with difficulty and then more easily, to the top.
G. Moss, L. Convery. 12/8/1995

APPRENTICE BOYS     20m     S(4a)
Start at a block, a few metres right of Glorious Twelfth. Good in-cut holds lead to a small bracket. Gain this (crux) and continue pleasantly to the top.
L. Convery, G. Moss 12/8/1995

Carrick Mountain 2

This crag (grid ref. T22759380) is a possible alternative to Barnbawn, should plans to climb on that crag during the winter months be foiled by the activity of deer hunters. It is in the same general area as Barnbawn, in the forest on the SW slope of Carrick mountain where, thankfully, no shooting is allowed. It is a very pleasant spot, south-facing, and sheltered, but it should be noted that it is not as extensive as Barnbawn.

The climbs are all in the lower grades, on sound rock, with good protection (small to medium nuts and/or cams useful) and, with one exception, the anchors on top are rigged using nuts and/or cams. All of which might make this a good spot for introducing beginners to the craft of trad climbing: leading, placing protection and setting up anchors on top for belays.

As an added bonus, the view of the Wicklow mountains from the top of the crag is the finest, from Croghan Kinsella on the Wicklow/Wexford border, to Lug and its satellites, to Tonlagee and Kippure and around to Djouce and the Sugarloaf. So hillwalkers could spend a pleasant interlude identifying the many summits on view.

APPROACH. The crag is best approached from the forest entrance near Aghgowle, grid ref. T21909360. Travelling from Dublin, take junction 16 on the M11, signposted Wicklow/Rathnew. At the roundabout in the village of Rathnew turn right onto the R752 and follow this road through the village of Glenealy. Turn right just before the railway overbridge, onto L2116 and follow this to take a signposted minor road on the right, which leads to a forest entrance on the right. This is the main entrance/exit for large lorries drawing timber from the forest, so leave plenty of room for them to do so when parking.

Go left at the T junction on the forest road and continue uphill to a complex junction (ca. 10 mins.) Continue straight ahead, with areas cleared of trees on both sides of the rising road. Shortly after a radio mast comes into view a crossroads is reached. Turn left and follow this road to a turning circle at the road head. From the top left of the turning circle go down a short firebreak and follow a line of small cairns to the foot of the crag, which can seen behind a belt of mature trees. A half-hour’s pleasant walk from the car park.

The climbs are described from right to left (east to west) as the crag is approached from this direction and I have used small crag ethics, squeezing in as many routes as possible. Descent is via a one minute walk off, down through the trees. All gradings should be regarded as rough estimates and subject to change. Gerry Moss March 2020.

Carrick 2 1.png

1. Isolation Nation. Diff.
Start at the foot of a pointed block at the bottom right of the crag. From the top of the block step across onto a short sloping ramp. From the top of the ramp move up and follow the right edge to the top. Belay well back at a jammed block.
Gerry Moss, March 2020

2. Virus direst. Severe (mild).
Start as for 1. From the top of the block step across onto the bottom of a short sloping ramp. Climb up diagonally left to the foot of a shallow corner. Gain the corner (crux) and continue straight up. Belay well back at a jammed block.
Gerry Moss, March 2020

3. Polemic Pandemic. VD.
Start at the bottom left of the pointed block. Climb up bearing left for about 4m then move right into short left facing corner and straight up.
Gerry Moss, March 2020

Carrick 2 2.png

4. Be wise, sanitise. Diff.
Start 1m left of 3. Climb up for 3m then step left onto arête and climb this to top.
Gerry Moss, March 2020

5. Cocooners and Zoomers. Diff.
Start 1m left of 4 below a niche. Step up and pull out left and follow cracks up to just right of tree stump.
Gerry Moss, March 2020

6. Trump the Chump. HS(4a).
Start 2m left of 5 at the foot of a shallow right-facing cracked corner. Climb the corner, moving out left near its top, then move up to below a right-slanting crack and narrow ramp. Step up right onto the ramp then move straight up, to finish left of the tree stump.
Gerry Moss, March 2020

Carrick 2.3.png

7. Dettol no cure-all. S.
Start 2m left of 6, at foot of short right-slanting crack below a bulge. Climb the bulge and move up to a ledge. Finish direct.
Gerry Moss, March 2020

8. 2 meters, 6 feeters. Severe (mild).
2m left of 7 below cracked corner. Climb the corner to below ledge with small dead tree on the left. Step across right, climb up over 2 ledges and pull up to easier ground (crux).
Gerry Moss, March 2020

9. 5k – don’t stray. S.
Start 2m left of 8, below short corner. Climb the corner until level with small dead tree on the right. Move straight up from here (crux).
Gerry Moss, March 2020

10. Health Carers – brunt bearers. VS4b.
Start 3m right of, and down from, a small pine tree, below crack in short wall. Climb the crack and move up to a ledge below another crack in a short, impending wall. Up over this to the top.
Gerry Moss, March 2020

Carrick 2 4.png

11. Stuck at Home ÓChón. VS(4c).
Start about 12m left of 10 at the foot of a large rowan tree growing close to the face of an undercut buttress. Climb the face, on large jugs at first, the holds growing smaller with height. Belay at the pine tree.
Gerry Moss, March 2020

12. Hold firm, don’t squirm. HS(4a).
Start 1m left of the large rowan tree. Climb the left edge, a steep start leading to easier climbing. Belay at the pine tree.
Gerry Moss, March 2020

To the left of 'Hold firm, don't squirm' is a break, followed by an adjoining pear-shaped buttress.

13. Herd Immunity. VS (4c).
Starts at the right-hand end of the pear-shaped buttress, next to the break. Climb the undercut with strenuous moves to a short niche. Move up to a groove and climb the groove to finish.
Gerry Galligan, Cearbhall Daly, 10 October 2020.

Carrick Mountain 3

A steep quarztite slab on the western slope of Carrick Mountain. Grid ref: T2315 9415. The slab is peppered with little pockets and small, flat holds and we have taken advantage of this to cram the routes in, so the topos should prove useful in identifying what’s what. The climbing is delightful but it should be noted that protection, particularly on the steeper routes, is sparse and, sometimes, difficult to place. Micro wires, small cams and offsets may prove useful. The slab faces northwest and can be chilly during spells of westerly winds, so it should not be regarded as a winter venue.

Approach. The shortest approach is from the forest entrance at Aghgowle, grid ref. T2190 9360. This is the main entrance/exit for large vehicles drawing timber from the forest, so take care not to block the gate when parking. On the forest road keep L at the first junction and L also at the crossroads. Go R, uphill, at the next junction and follow this undulating road until you top a rise and the Irish Sea comes into view straight ahead. The road dips and rises again and on the crest of this rise you come to a wide turning circle used by the lorries. Ca. 30 mins on foot to this point, less than half that if you cycle. A few meters beyond the circle take to the steep, wide vehicle track running up the hillside on the R. The steep section is short: turn L after 50m onto a deeply rutted track that traverses the hillside. When the track runs clear of the trees on the R the slab comes into view above and the track begins to descend toward the forest road. At this point watch out for a small cairn on the R, marking the start of a narrow motorcycle track running up to the R of the slab. A little below the level of the slab a small cairn on the L marks the start of a line of cairns leading to its foot, ca. 40 mins in total on foot.

The routes are described from L to R and all grades are provisional. Several tree stumps above the slab provide convenient anchor points for routes 1 to 10, while routes 11 to 14 use the small, sturdy conifer. Descent is a walk-off to the L, facing in.

1. Aghgowle Addict. VD.
Start near the L end of the slab, below a narrow ledge at knee height. Climb, trending L to a break at L end of sloping ramp.Step up R onto ramp and move straight up from there.
G.Moss. 10/9/20.

2. Deireadh na Choillte. VD.
Start 1m R of knee height ledge, below L trending shallow cracks. From top of these step up to pocket below sloping ramp. Gain the ramp and finish direct.
G.Moss. 10/9/20.

3. Feasta gan Adhmad. S3c
Start 2m R of 2, in front of large tree stump. Climb straight up to break in the upper section and finish direct.
C. Daly, G. Galligan, 6/9/20.

4. Bealach Glas. HS4b.
Start just R of 3, below a thin fault line trending slightly R. From the top of this climb straight up to a small niche and finish direct from here.
G. Galligan, C. Daly, 6//9/20.

5. Nerve Agent. VS4b.
Start 2m R of 4 and just L of small boulder at foot of the slab. Move up and gain thin crack running up to an overlap. Straight up from here.
G. Galligan, C. Daly, 6/9/20.

6. Éminence Grise. HS4b.
Start just R of small boulder at foot of slab. A delicate start gains the thin, continuous crack line running directly up the slab. Step across L to good holds when the crack fades just below the top.
J. Duignan, G.M. 6/9/20.

Ck3top1.jpg


7. Ttryst. HS4b
.Start just L of a large tree stump, below a short, L trending crack at half height. Gain this and and follow a line directly up the slab.
C. Daly, G. Galligan 6/9/20.

CK3top2.jpg


8. Slab Happy. VS4b. Start 1m R of 7 and just R of the large tree stump, directly below a short, wide, broken crackline in the upper section of the slab. Climb straight up, the crux being the delicate section in the middle of the climb. Finish on good holds.
G.Moss. 23/8/20.

9. Season of Mists. VS4b. Start 1m R of 8, below a short vertical crack at the top of the slab. The crux is the delicate section in the middle of the climb.
G.Moss. 23/8/20.

10. Great Craic. VD.
This climb take the obvious, fistwide crackline running the full height of the slab.
G.Moss. 23/8/20.

11. An Ghaoth Aniar. VS4b. Start just R of rte.10. Follow a line directly up to gain a short, R trending, thin crack in the upper section of the slab.
G.Moss. 4/9/2020.

12. Stumped. VS4b.
Start 1m R of 11, in front of small tree stump. This climb takes a straight line up the slab, on small holds, finishing up via the pale upper section, with the crux at half height.
G.Moss. 4/9/2020.

13. Flying Doctor. S4a.
Start 1m R of 12, below a short, shallow, L facing corner halfway up the slab. Move up, gain a good ledge above the corner, crux, and finish more easily.
G.Moss. 23/8/20.

14. Nobrainer. VD.
Start at the R end of the slab, to the R of Flying Doctor, below a crack leading up to a ledge on its L. Climb the crack, move L to the ledge and finish up the short wall above.
G.Moss. 10/9/20.

Ck3top3.jpg Ck3top4.jpg