Carrick Mountain

Introduction

Google Maps: Ballykeeffe Amphitheatre, Ballykeefe Hill, Kilmangah, Co. Kilkenny

Ballykeefe Quarry is located between Kilkenny and Kilmanagh (Map Ref. 240700150900) on the R695 (on signpost) aka L26A (on 1/2 inch map Sheet 18) 7.5 miles (12 km) from Kilkenny, 5 miles (8 km) from Callan. On the way from Kilkenny, you pass through the village of Ballycallan (don't blink) in which is located the shop and pub known as 'The Pound' to which climbers usually repair. (Also recommended are Ryan's or Mc Cluskey's in Kilmanagh, two miles the far side of the quarry). The road sweeps around to the south side of the hill, covered by Ballykeefe Wood. The quarry is clearly visible from the road.

The rock is a crinoidal packstone/wackestone Carboniferous limestone. The rock itself is very strong and has been well-cleaned by the pioneers of the routes; nevertheless, having been fractured by blasting, there is no guarantee that rain and frost might not have loosened formerly-sound holds. Exercise appropriate caution and judgement. Likewise whilst any bolts or pegs which have been placed have been so put with the best care, it behoves each new climber to make their own assessment of the soundness of these.

Bolts have only been placed on routes that are otherwise unprotectable. They have been placed as sparingly as possible, consistent with safety. Where natural protection is available, no bolts have been placed – including those parts of bolted routes where natural gear can be placed.

Any climbs bolted by locals were cleaned and inspected and climbed on top-rope prior to bolting. It is important to understand that the bolts so placed were never intended to be fallen on but rather as possible salvation in case things went wrong. It should not be assumed by any visiting climber that a bolt may be fallen on with impunity. Bolts, even if once sound, might fail due to corrosion or fatigue or other factors.

All bolts and pegs have been placed by the pioneers for their own use only. Mention of bolts in route descriptions is not an invitation to use them. Anyone else making use of these bolts or pegs does so entirely at their own risk.

The rock gets polished much more easily than most crags. Concern has been raised about the start of some climbs (in particular the Pigs Wall) becoming polished due to groups setting up top ropes on routes that are too hard, spending a long time at the bottom, and polishing the holds.

Because it is south facing and sheltered, the quarry is always considerably warmer than the general environment, especially from Autumn to Spring, when the sun is low in the sky. In addition, the rock dries incredibly quickly, as soon as it is no longer actually raining.

'New Bolts'

As posted in a climbing.ie post (retrieved 2011-06-17) : "it was agreed to increase the bolting on 3 of the less challenging routes to facilitate leading by less experienced climbers. This work was recently carried out by and John F Kennedy & John G O’Dwyer of Mid-Tipp Hillwalkers on routes where it is not possible to place traditional protection."

The affected routes are on the Left Pigs Wall: Push Your Granny, Dented Ego, and Bishop's Nose. The additional bolts have been added to each route's description.

Overview, Parking and Maps

There is a little car park at the eastern side intended for visitors to the wood; a duck through the bushes here gives instant access to the quarry. Please try to avoid parking at the quarry gateway; the gates open outwards and council lorries need to get in and out at the most unlikely times.

Entrance Wall

Entrance wall runs along the road/path to where the quarry opens out. The main feature is the vee-shaped gully of Oggy. The climbing in this section is all trad climbing and offers some of the easier climbing in the quarry. There are loads of conveniently located trees at the top of the climbs for anchors and the walk down takes about a minute via a path that come out to the left of the wall. The grading is quite easy compared to some places like the Gap of Dunloe and is comparable to somewhere like Ballyryan in the Burren.

Sylvester 9m VD
G. Fogg. May '99
Up corner to top. Good protection.

Aristotle 9m HS 4b
G. Fogg. May '99.
1m right of Sylvester. Up centre of upper wall. Good protection.

Bill and Ben 9m S 4a
G. Fogg. May '99.
1.5m right of Sylvester. Follow crack from ground-level. Go straight up or take the right-hand fork at top. Good protection.

Grod 9m VD
T.Sommerville and A.O'Sullivan
Bad protection on easy climbing, good protection on harder climbing. Start in the middle between Bill and Oggy, go up the broken face, there is a trapped block about 1/3 the way up you can wrap a sling around. Continue up the broken section of rock until you reach the flat face. Small cam is good here. Continue up, topping out just left of the gorse bush using the alternate finish for Bill and Ben as this routes finish

Plato 10m HS 4b
G. Fogg, B. Dunne. May '99
2m left of Oggy. Go straight up the broken bulge and go straight to the top. Protection from small wires and small tricam in horizontal breaks.

Steering Wheel 10m HS 4b
N. Mahon '80's
Up the bulge on the left side of Oggy. Tricam in borehole at top of bulge, small wires above.

Oggy and the Cockroaches 10m VS 4c
G. Fogg, N. Eager. May '99.
Bridge up the vee to the ledge and then shuffle step up your way up to the crux. Layback to get through the crux. After that its relatively easy climbing to the top. Large and Medium Hex protection but a little run-out at the crux as the crack opens out too wide for most standard gear. Good protection overall.

GTX 10m HS 4b
N. Mahon. '80's
Up the arête to the right side of Oggy and finish up flat face

Ford Wall 8m E1 5b
N. Mahon. '80's.
Up the flat face on left side of vee. No protection. Crux near the bottom but don't slip. Finish up grassy slope.

Lolos grade??
H Fogg 2005 Unrepeated. Repeatable??
Up the centre of Ford Wall, without either edge. 1bolt.

Cadet Crack 10m HS 4b
N. Mahon. '80's.
Up through mini-chimney, make your way to the right and straight up to finish

Rugrats 13m VD
G. Fogg. '99.
Crack at back of diedre. Trend right to finish. Good protection.

Between Rugrats and Jim Crack, there is a selection of possibilities at VD.

Jim Crack 13m VD
G. Fogg. '99.
15m right of Rugrats. Follow crack to top. Very well protected

Between Jim Crack and Crooked Crack, there is a selection of unprotected slab-climbing at about Severe.

Crooked Crack 15m VD
Tyndall. 80's.
1m left of the corner. Follow crack to top. Good protection.

First Corner 15m VD
Tyndall. 80's.
Follow arête to top.

Left Pigs Wall

When Entrance Wall ends you go around the corner and there is a small length of crag before you get to the main face of Pigs Wall.

Cliffhanger 15m HVS 5a
G. Fogg, N. Eager. 15/4/99
Scramble easily up the left hand side of the slope then follow up under, and find protection in the overhanging crack, beware of loose rock. N.B. ‘Loose rock’ fell down, and more was knocked down in 2020. Route probably doesn’t exist - and wasn’t worth doing anyway. Topo is wrong, it’s the line on the left.

Kestrel Crack 15m E1 5b
M. Manning, T. Brophy. 80's
Above ramp. Climb crack to the top (crux at 2/3 height). Protection is good but is a little tricky to arrange.

The Eiger Sanction F6a 15m HVS 5b
G. Fogg. 5/8/2000
Between the two cracks. Go straight up past three bolts. Crux at top.

Kevin's Corner 15m HVS 5a
K. Higgins, B. Dunne, N. Mahon. 80's
Start in the corner at ground-level and follow the right-hand groove to top of pillar at 6m. From here, follow the crack 0.6m to the left to top. Good protection.

The Bay of Pigs

There are eleven drill marks at ground-level counting from Kevin's Corner at left. These are helpful in locating the climbs.

From Rosehip Crack on, there is a terrace. The Bay of Pigs is the bay to the left of Rosehip Crack.

The right-hand side of the bay, where the rock rises vertically from bottom to top, has some of the hardest and most sustained climbing in the quarry and has been known since early days as The Pigs.

The left-hand side of the Bay has fewer climbs but has three naturally-protected crack climbs. At ground-level, is the slightly-overhanging blank face of Street Ball Wall, so-called from the fading graffito it bears. This offers some strenuous bouldering.

Bouldering
Street Ball Traverse 5
G. Fogg. 31/5/2000
Start with both hands on arête at left, between the horizontal scars, feet on wall only. Hand-traverse to corner.

Bouldering
Street Ball Mantelshelf 5
G. Fogg. 1/10/2000
Mantelshelf the wall just left of its highest point.

Feel free to mark climbs

Kevin's Corner Direct F6a+ 15m
G Fogg
First bolted route from left on main wall.

Miss Piggy F6b+ 15m
M Daly, G Fogg 2000.Start at the second drill mark 1.5m past Kevins corner. from the good hold on the borehole after the second bolt, crimp slightly left on poor holds then up. easier above.

Pigeon 6b+
G Fogg S Gallwey 2000
Start just left of the 4th. drill-mark and follow the bolts (three). The crux is between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Above the 3rd. bolt, move right into niche and enjoy easier climbing to the top.

A Cone Ochone 6b+
H Fogg G Fogg 2003
An eliminate - like all the routes in the quarry. No hands or feet outside the defined line for the tick.From the first bolt of Cats, go straight up the narrow (0.5m) pilaster between the borehole on the left and the arete on the right. Up the centre of the slab below the overhang [no palming on left] and finish straight up.

Cats F6b+ 15m
M Daly, G Fogg 17/5/2000.
Start at the 5th. drill-mark (left-slanting) and follow the four bolts to the top. There is a cruxy section below the second bolt and again at the fourth bolt where tired arms have to drag the climber past a bulge.

Animal F6b 15m
B Dunne, N Mahon
This is the classic hard route in the quarry,dating from the first phase of development. Originally protected by just three bolts, Start at the 7th drill-mark on the prominent bulge and go straight up. Use is often made of a rattly 'loose tooth' near the top – it hasn't come out yet – Brian. Sustained.

The Last Pig F6b+ 15m
G Fogg
Start at the 8th. drill-mark. Climb delicately up to 4m then follow drillmark to right. The crux is between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. A small Tricam gives protection near the top.

Makin Whoopee F6b 15m
G. Fogg, B. Dunne. 27/5/2000.
Start at the 10th. drill-mark (half-way up ramp). There are two bolts at the first clip, the right-hand one is in a dubious flake and ought not to be used. The crux is between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Well protected.

Aardvaark F6a 15m
B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 5/6/2000.
Start at the 11th drill-mark (at ground-level) to cave at 6m. Follow the line of the bolts to the top, resisting the temptation to escape right.

Main Terrace

From Rosehip Crack to the Ascent Route, the face is divided horizontally by a terrace; all the climbs along this section end at the terrace, except for a couple at the far left.

This area offers a wide selections of relatively short harder grade trad routes and interesting bolted sport climbs.

The Ascent Route is not a climb but a scramble up onto the terrace and is located on the far right where the terrace ends, it is one way to access the terrace where all these climbs end. Note also that there are multiple rings to absail off, one on the far right of the terrace near enough the top of the ascent route, one over to the left of the terrace and a stuck drill bit on the far left, which can be used as an anchor.

Rosehip Crack 8m VS 5a Much harder since loss of block above the cave.
M.Manning. 80's.
Follow the left-trending crack easily to a cave at 6m. A bolt on the left from Aardvark can be used to protect the next (crux) move up and right to the terrace. Direct Finish 5m
A satisfying finish to this climb goes straight up from the belay cave and through the slit between jutting noses at top. Good protection.

Easy Street 7m 5c
G. Fogg, B. Dunne 29/12/2000.
Follow the first drill-mark 1.3m right of Rosehip Crack, assiduously avoiding the large flake on the left at 2.3m. The start is tricky and surmounting the bulge can be awkward. No protection. Thread belay at cave.

Undercut Alley 7m 5c
G. Fogg (Solo) 26/8/99. (After top-rope practice)
Start at the 2nd drill-mark from Rosehip Crack, 1m right of Easy Street. Follow the drill-mark from ground-level using a succession of undercut holds. Then move delicately right to meet the drill-mark 0.6m to the right at 3m. No protection. Thread belay at cave.

Direct start 6a
G. Fogg (Solo). 26.8.99 (after top-rope practice)
It is possible to eliminate the second undercut.

Feel free to add in more climbs to the picture, here is a start anyway. Also need a picture of Sally Crack and Ascent Route below

The Pope's Nose 7m HS 4b
G. Fogg. 15/9/01.
About 3m right of Rosehip Crack. Over obvious snout to mid-section.

The Vatican 7m VS 4c
B. Dunne, N. Mahon. '80's
2m right of The Pope's Nose. Follow drill-mark past overhanging sharp flake.

Ichabod 7m F6b
G Fogg solo
1.6m right of The Vatican. Follow the borehole straight up the centre, above the pale scar. Well-protected (two bolts).

Paradise Crack 7m HS 4b
The obvious crack on the left side of The Slab (piton).

Slab Direct 7m HS 4a
B. Dunne, N.Mahon. 80's
Climb the centre of the slab. No protection.

Slab RHS 7m HS 4a
N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.
Climb the right-hand side of the slab. No protection.

Shadrach 7m HVS 5a
The first drill-mark to the right of the slab. No protection.

Meshach 7m HVS 5a
G. Fogg (Solo). 26/9/99.
The second drill-mark almost 1m right of Shadrach. No protection.

Abednego 7m HVS 5a
G. Fogg (Solo). 26/9/99.
The third drill-mark, about 0.5m right of Meshach. No protection.

Dented Ego 7m HS 4b
26/9/99.
Climb to the white corner at 3m and up. New Bolts: Now has an additional bolt for a total of 2 bolts. No bolts were placed on the top section of the route as this can be adequately protected by traditional gear placement.

Nailbreaker 7m HS 4b
N. Mahon, B.Dunne. 80's.
1m right of Dented Ego. Climb to dark corner (bolt) then up.

Bishop's Nose 7m S 4a
B. Dunne, N. Mahon. 80's.
2m right of Nailbreaker. Climb the nose at 3m and up. No protection. New Bolts: Previously had no protection, Now has 3 bolts

Clover 7m S 4a
N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.
Corner 1m right of Bishop's Nose. No protection.

The Pooka 7m 6a
1m left of Lady Jane. Climb the blank section between the drill-mark on left and the thin crack on right using side-pulls (poor wire in crack). Mantelshelf the ledge above and easily up.

Lady Jane 7m HVS 5a
A quarry classic. Follow the cleaned crack (wire and piton protection). Although short, this is an interesting route which can be climbed by different techniques and may be found to be more difficult than it appears.

Disc 7m 6a+
Start at ground level just right of Lady Jane. Go straight up past two bolts.

Push Your Granny 7m HS 4c
Just left of Spreadeagle. Follow the right-trending drill-mark. Two bolts. New Bolts: Now has 2 additional bolts for a total of 4 bolts.

Spreadeagle 7m 6b
An early test-piece. Start directly below drill-mark in shallow scoop. Work your way up by bridging. (3 bolts). Well protected. This route combines nicely with Widowmaker.

Cut the Tree 7m HS 4b
N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.
Left of bush, past small overhang.

Sally Crack 20m S 4a
N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.
2m right of Cut the Tree. Past bush at 3m to mid-section and continue to top if desired. Plenty of protection but beware of loose rock.

Ascent Route 14m D
T. Brophy, M. Manning, 80's.
Over clay-parting at ground-level and up ramp, then up left behind detached boulder. Traverse left to mid-section, making airy step-across on way.

Above Main Terrace

This is the section of rock above Main Terrace. You can get to it via absail from above (dont leave the path blocked) or from the ground via the ascent scramble from the right side. On the terrace itself, there is a ring bolted into the ground on the right side you can absail to the ground from and a stuck drill bit way on the left. This area represents some of the harder trad routes in the quarry.

Unaccountably, this section of vertical rock had been largely overlooked until, with this guide in preparation, it seemed obvious that it should be cleaned and climbed for the sake of completeness. The cleaning took place over Halloween 2000 and the removal of surprising quantities of loose rock revealed a rather attractive series of climbs from Severe to VS and with good natural protection. Very useful in this regard are small tricams or hexes for the cleaned clay-partings between the upper beds.

Feel free to mark climbs on this picture

Ascent Route Direct 7m S
N. Mahon. 80's
Up the drill mark in the corner at the ascent route, then to left behind willow bush and follow drill mark to top.

Feddan 7m VS 5a
N. Eager, G. Fogg. 3/11/2000.
Follow the drill mark almost 1m right of Ascent Route Direct using bouldery moves to ledge, then follow the drill mark on right to top. Tricam and nut protection.

Palatine Street 7m VS 4c
G. Fogg, N. Eager. 3/11/2000.
Follow the drill mark almost 1m right of Feddan to ledge and continue straight up the obvious shallow chimney above. Good protection.

The Whangie 7m S 4a
G. Fogg. (Solo) 4/11/2000.
Up the drill mark 1m right of Palatine Street then follow the drill mark on right to top.Good protection.

Melanophy's 7m HS 4b
G. Fogg. (Solo). 14/11/2000.
Follow the left-slanting crack and drill mark 2.5m right of The Whangie to obvious bay. Bridge up this to top. Good protection.

Visions of Johanna 7m HS 4b
G. Fogg, N. Eager. 3/11/2000.
Start at the crack-line and drill mark about 1m right of Melanophy's. Follow this and trend left to finish at the distinct vee-notch at the top.Excellent protection.

Ezekiel Saw a Wheel 7m VS 5a
G. Fogg. (Solo). 4/11/2000.
A boulder problem start and an easier finish. Start between and keep within the drill marks of Visions of Johanna and Ain't it just like the Night, below the sloping flake crack. Delicately surmount this and finish up the drill mark directly above. Be ready for the loose but captive block just below the top.

Ain't it just like the Night 7m HVS 5a
B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 12/11/2000.
Start at the drill mark 1m right of Visions of Johanna, below overhanging flake at 2.5m and finish up the drill mark to the right. The first protection is in the clay parting at 2/3 height. There is a loose but captive block just below the top.

Louise 7m VS 4c
B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 14/11/2000.
Start at the drill mark about 1.5m right of Ain't it just like the Night and about 1.5m left of the abseil ring and finish up the drill mark to the right.

Key Chain 7m HS 4b
B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 14/11/2000.
Start above the ring and finish up the drill mark to the right.

Small talk at the wall 7m S 4a
G.Fogg. (Solo). 23/11/2000.
1m to the right of the ring. Finish up the broken corner.

Jane's Granny 7m S 4a
B. Dunne. 80's
Almost 3m right of the ring, past two small overhangs to top. Good protection.

Jane's Aunt 7m S 4a
G. Fogg, F. O'Connell. '98.
About 1m right of Jane's Granny. Up groove at top. Good protection.

Monkey's Tail 7m S 4a
B. Dunne. 80's.
4m right of Jane's Granny. To ledge and then just right of vertical brown stain to top.

Sally Crack Upper 7m VD
T. Brophy. 80's
To top to the left of Widowmaker.

Widowmaker 7m HVS 5b
T. Brophy. 90's
Easily up to top of boulder, then up the centre of the blank left-facing face. Protection in the horizontal parting.

Long Traverse Ledge

It is possible to traverse across from the Main Terrace to the Upper Terrace but it is not to be recommended as a slip here would be serious. It is just as simple to go along the top as ascent and descent to both terraces is easy.

Stone Pony 6b+
G Fogg H Fogg 2003
Just right of the ascent route. Up the middle of the blank section. No bridging [obviously]. 2 bolts. Anchor at ledge.

Painted Lady 20m HVS 5a
B. Dunne, H. McNamara. 80's
A most enjoyable early classic. Start past the ramp to an obvious crack at paint splash and follow this to mid-section (excellent protection). From here, continue straight to top, past two bolts.

Après Mars 20m F6b
G. Fogg. 8/10/2000.
Start at the moist closed crack almost 2m right of corner of ramp to Painted Lady. Go straight up and follow the protruding drill-mark on left, past three bolts. Then up slope, past borehole (Tricam) trending right towards the white scar and follow left-leaning drill-marks to top. (2 bolts + nut in horizontal break).

Open Book 20m F6a
B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 4/3/2001.
Gain the scoop at 2.5m. Bridge up this (two bolts), up past the flake (nut placement) and delicately over the rounded section to mid-way. Follow Après Mars or Knock Airport to top.

The Prow 20m F6b
G. Fogg, C. Murphy. 14/10/2000.
Start below the protruding drill-mark and go straight up to mid-way. (3 bolts). To reach top, follow line of Knock Airport.

Knock Airport 20m F6a+
N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's
The groove to the right of The Prow. Climb groove (2 bolts) and over nose at 8m (sling over bar) to mid-way. Then straight to top, going straight over overhang (bolt)

Indian Summer 8m F6b
G. Fogg, H. Fogg, B. Dunne. 22/9/02
From the ledge above the first leg of Knock Airport to the top. Two bolts. A route to the top from Gecko or an alternative finish to Knock Airport.

Gecko 10m F7a
G. Fogg, S.Gallwey.15/7/2000.
Reclimbed after loss of block, G.Fogg, S.Gallwey. 24/9/2000.
This impressively blank piece of rock provides the quarry test piece. Start in the shallow vee-shaped bay below an over-jutting flat face. The original route involved a beautiful delicate balancy rock-over (the 'gecko' move) onto the face from left at the overhang. However, since the loss of a large chunk at the bottom of the overhang (thanks a lot Nigel), the approach is now, more thuggishly, straight up. Once established on the face, and with the top bolt clipped, the target is a jug high on the arête (To get full tick stick to the face and continue to chain). With this (first) good hold, you are up. Well protected (3 bolts). Chain for abseil. Recently the gate was removed by someone.

Komodo 24m 6b+/6c
G. Fogg, B. Dunne. 23/02/2001.
This route is a worthy neighbour to Gecko. It takes the blunt arête at the right of the Gecko slab and follows the sharp arête above to the Long ledge. Start just left of the wet stripe. A bolt protects the awkward problem of passing the clay wayboard. With the second bolt clipped and the good hand holds above, make the committing move to easier ground and the third bolt. Move up towards the well-defined arête and bolt. A lay away gains good holds at the top of the arête; mantelshelf these. Finish comfortably up the bay (piton) below the trapped block.

Soap Gut 24m HS
B. Dunne, N. Mahon. 80's
2.5m right of Gecko. Over wet bulge, then wide crack at left of the large wedged-shaped block.From the corner at the point of this, traverse left, crossing Komodo, to follow the easy ramp to Long ledge. Move right and climb the bay as for Komodo to the top.

White Elephant Direct 24m 6a
N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.
Start 1m right of the ash tree at 14m. Tradition demands a step up from right using the 'loose tooth' (another it hasn't come out yet). This part of the climb is about 5a but can easily be avoided. Then, move left to the tree at 7m, up through the vee and straight to the top past two noses. Reasonable protection can be found along the way.

Upper Terrace

The climbs to the right of White Elephant Direct finish at this delightful sun-drenched terrace, with glorious views and an attractive and interesting flora.

For belay anchors, there are some in-situ pegs (test for yourself) as well as some eye-bolts cemented into boreholes at the base of the back wall. Easiest access to this terrace is at the eastern end.

Stinger 17m 6b
M. Daly, G. Fogg. 5/6/2000.
Hardest at the top (hence name). Start as for no. 57 to ledge (bolt). Then up past three bolts. Two pitons provide belay anchors.

Mt. Rushmore 17m 5+
M. Daly, G. Fogg. 5/6/2000.
Start as for White Elephant Direct From ledge, follow three bolts 2m right of Stinger. A pleasant excursion.

Apache Mountain
A highball boulder problem with a bolt, just left of the start of The Brendan Voyage.
Up the centre of the blank section on thin layaways.

The Brendan Voyage 17m 5
M. Daly, B. Proctar. 15/7/2000.
3m right of Mt. Rushmore. From ground, go easily up the broken ramp, past the clay parting and easily up to clip the first bolt at 8m. Continue past two more bolts.

Purging Flax 5m HS 4c
G. Fogg (Solo). 26/6/2000.
2m right of the start of The Brendan Voyage. Up the brown stain past overhang to ledge.

Empire State 17m 6b+
G. Fogg, B. Dunne. 5/6/2000.
1.5m left of the ash tree at ground level. Follow the drill-mark past the 'Ballykeefe hold' at 2.5m and bolt to ledge. Piton at base of pilaster.Up this and delicately past bolt to terrace.

Blackstonia 15m 6b
G. Fogg (Solo). 26/6/2000.
3.5m right of the ash tree. Move delicately up drill-mark past bolt to easier section trending right to base (nut placement) of pale scar and right-leaning drill-mark (bolt) to terrace.

The Escalator 7m HVS 5a
G. Fogg (Solo). 26/6/2000.
3.5m right of ash tree, at start of Broken Stairs. Make a rising traverse on small holds to intersect Blackstonia at ledge.

Broken Stairs 21m VS 4c
G. Fogg. (Solo) 26/6/2000.
3.5m right of the ash tree. Follow broken corner rightwards past two bolts and nut protection in crack to first ledge. Continue up short wall past another bolt to the second ledge. Finish up the centre of the blank wall (protection in horizontal crack and in pocket near top) to terrace. Eyebolt belay at back of terrace.

The Hen's Nest 15m 6b+
B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 12/8/2000.
2m right of Broken Stairs, below neat round niche at 5m. Climb straight up to niche (2 bolts) and out of it again over bulge (crux) to ledge. Finish to terrace up top of Broken Stairs.

Blood on the Tracks 16m 6b+
B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 3/3/2001.
3.5m right of The Hen's Nest. A well-defined buttress about 2.5m wide has a drill-mark at its centre which starts about 2.5m above the ground and leads upwards to end in a peak at the top. From ground level at left side of ramp, climb up and follow the central drill-mark to a good blocky hold at 5m. If inspiration or resolve fails, the saddle-horn on the left-hand drill-mark provides an easy escape but the real challenge (and crux of the climb) is to finish directly up the centre (nose to the borehole). The second tier is a repeat performance. To the left is relatively easy but the climb goes straight up (second crux). Protection is from three bolts. A ringbolt at the back of the terrace provides a belay anchor.

Zig and Zag 15m HS
N. Mahon, N. Mahon. 80's
Follow jagged edge on left of smooth wall 2.3m right of Blood on the Tracks, then straight to mid way. Route uncertain at the top.

Evening Press Reissue 20m HS
N. Mahon, N. Mahon. 80's
3m right of Zig and Zag. Edge of smooth wall, past small diedre (peg) at 13m to top.

Gromwell Bay

Feel free to mark climbs

Twinkletoes 20m 6a
G. Fogg, H. Fogg. 22/8/2001.
Start at the blank section of rock 2m right of the left-slanting edge of Evening Press Reissue (not part of this climb!). Quality moves on thin holds leads up to the first clip. Thence, under the protruding arête and to the left past the second bolt to the ledge. From here, trend left through the diedre past peg to easy ground.

The Teaser 20m 6b+
G. Fogg, N. Eager. 5/8/2001.
Start in the middle of the bay. Easyish moves lead to the first clip, followed by the trickier crux section. From the ledge, move up and slightly left, past a poor peg, over broken rock to easy ground.

Gromwell 20m 6b
G. Fogg, N. Eager. 3/8/2001.
Start just right of the centre of the bay. Tricky moves lead to the first bolt. Continue up to the ledge and easily up the central gully to the bottom of the brown weathered wall. Climb the middle of this (natural gear).

Fear Breaga Buttress

Feel free to mark climbs

Fear Breaga Ascent Route 30m D
G. Fogg. '99.
Start at the left of the buttress and go up a stepped arête to 4m, then weave up and rightwards to pass behind the upstanding 'Fear Breaga' boulder to the right and then bridge up behind the detached block to gain the top. This route is little more than a scramble but needs careful navigation on the way down.

Central Crack 6m VD
P. Melanophy, C.Flynn. 19/4/2001.
Climb the crack at the back of the diedre and continue up straight over the bulge. Belay at the Fear Breaga pillar.

Fear Breaga's Toenail 4m Diff
G. Fogg. (Solo). 18/4/99.
In the little corner to the left of the rubble-slope defining the right hand side of the buttress is a sharp-edged crack. Layback this and use a side-pull to gain poorish holds on the top edge. Pull up on these and mantelshelf (crux). No protection.

Four-Inch Holes

To the right of the Fear Breaga ascent-route, just below the top, is a section of vertical rock which catches the evening sun when the rest of the quarry is in shadow. The climbs are short but worthwhile.

Tom Joad 5m VS
G. Fogg, P. Melanophy. 27/1/2001.
Start on the scree-slope at the projecting drill-mark 5m to the right of the corner formed by the huge detached boulder at the top of the Fear Breaga Ascent Route. Follow the drill-mark to 2.5m and then move left to the crack at the right edge of the flake (protection). Move onto the flake and continue delicately to the top.

Preacher Casey 5m VS
G. Fogg, B. Dunne. 4/2/2001.
Start at the projecting drill-mark 4m right of Fear Breaga Ascent Route, above a boulder in the scree-slope and follow the drill-mark up before moving left under the overhang.A camming-device in the vertical slot at 2m gives some protection for the balancy moves just above it. Find more protection under the overhang and then move out to clip the bolt and finish up the middle of the face above.

Jenga 5m S
P. Melanophy, G. Fogg. 27/1/20.
Climb the broken corner 5m right of Central Crack. Good protection but beware of loose rock.

Potential Crag

There is potential for a number of easy to moderate trad routes here. Currently the area is very dirty and there is loose rock everywhere but if someone were to make a project out of cleaning it there is the potential for a number of nice climbs.

Don’t get your hopes up. I was all over this and cleaned it around 2000. Found nothing. (G.F.)