Difference between pages "Scalp na gCapail" and "Cooney Rock"

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(Difference between pages)
(Grade changed to HS as the lower part of the corner has a few HS moves)
 
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'''This gneiss crag is situated in the Ox mountains in County Sligo. OS Grid Ref G642278, Sheet 25, Collooney. Lat/Long 54.1976, -8.5491. Take the road from Ballysadare to Ballina. Take a minor road on the left after 3Km signed for Cooney L6102. This leads, in a short distance, to the crag in the town lands of Collooney. Continue along this road to reach [[Happy Valli]] crag.'''
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The crag is located 500 metres down the road before arriving at Scailp na gCapaill. 400 metres before arriving at Scailp na gCapaill there is a parking place for 3 cars at the side of the road. From the parking, walk down ( away from Scailp na gCapaill) a further 100 metres and cross a low wall on the right into forest. The crag is 20 metres ahead in the woods. Access to the top of the crag is at the right-hand side. Follow the track cut through the gorse jungle to the top. It is also the descent.
  
'''The original routes are focused on the triangular face more visible from the road, however a lot of cleaning and development has been done recently on the left side opening up several new good routes. Grades range from S to E2.'''
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The orientation route, Codex, takes the obvious crack that splits the centre of the wall.
  
'''Note: The numbers on the topo photo below don't correspond to the numbers in the list of routes. No. 1 in the photo is More Street Trader (no. 9 in the list), no. 2 in the photo is Polish Paddy (no. 10 in the list), and so on. There isn't a photo showing routes 1 to 8, although you can see where Under the Carpet starts - up the slanted rectangular block between two fence posts to the left of Moore Street Trader (the fence posts aren't there any more).'''
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'''Codex      '''25 metres VS 4c <br />
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''(B. Proctor M. Daly) 20/4/2019''<br />
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Climb the crack passing 2 technically difficult sections. Near the top step left onto the arete and climb the wall above using perfectly shaped pockets.
  
[[Image:ScalpNaGcapail.jpg|800x800px|alt=]]
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'''Kindred Spirits'''    20 metres E2 5c<br />
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''(M. Daly B. Proctor) 15/4/2021''<br />
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Route starts 2 metres left of Codex and at the obvious 'letterbox'. Climb the wall above the letterbox and arrange gear in a rightward trending diagonal crack.  Up and left of this diagonal crack there is a foothold. Make hard moves up to gain the foothold and rest.  Further difficult moves (crux) and a horizontal break is reached.  Easier to top.
  
1. '''Santa Maria de Vison''' 20m HS (4a) <br>
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'''Breithlá        '''25 metres VS 4c<br />
''(M. Daly , B. Proctor - 6th October 2018)''<br>
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''(M. Daly B. Proctor) 24/3/2019''<br />
The route takes the left hand side of the wall. <br>
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Route starts 4 metres left of Codex and 2 metre left of obvious 'letterbox'. The route follows a faint crack up to an overlap at 6 metres. Climb the overlap up to an overhang at 10 metres. Climb this on the right and follow crack above to top.
Climb square cut ledges on the left-hand side of wall to where the wall steepens. A few technical moves lead to good jugs and top. Good protection. 
 
  
2. '''Garda Síochána''' 20m HS (4a/b) <br>
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'''Choctaw 170'''     20 metres E2 5c <br />
''C Ó Fiannachta, H Doherty. 13/05/2019''<br>
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''(M. Daly B. Proctor) 15/4/2021''<br />
Start 2m right of "Santa Maria De Vision" on good steps moving slightly right and up to quartz feature. Good pockets and gear lead to a series of ledges and cracks to below a tree. Follow cracks and left of tree to where wall steepens. Pass a small tree and thin crack and mantle headwall (crux) to heather ledge. Finish up small bank. Very good protection and wide variety of holds
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Route starts in a groove 2 metres left of Breithlá.  Climb the groove to the R.H.S. of the overhang.  Arrange protection in the horizontal crack above the overhang. Move up with difficulty and get established on the horizontal crack. Continue by a combination of crimps, side pulls and smears (crux) to gain better handholds and then a small ledge and rest. Up slab more easily to top.
  
2a. '''Dreadnought''' 25m HS 4a<br>
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'''Bluegrass      '''25 metres E3 6a <br />
''( M. Daly , B. Proctor - 15th April 2021)''<br>
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''(M. Daly B. Proctor) 28/3/2019''<br />
Left of Juliana there is an obvious corner that the route follows. For the first few metres the profile of the corner is to the right. Climb this (crux) to where the profile of the corner changes to the left. Follow the rest of the corner at V Diff using jugs and small ledges to where a step left can be made onto the arete just below the top. Good protection throughout.
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Route starts 4 metres left of Breithlá. Climb the blackish groove which trends diagonally left at first and then diagonally back right to a stance below an overlap at 7 metres (first runner). Climb this leftwards to below an overhang. Climb the overhang (hard moves) and get established on small holds (poor rest) at the base of 2 parallel faint cracks (small wire protection). Climb these with increasing difficulty until respite is reached by gaining big T.G. jugs and ledge. Easy to top and block belay.
  
3. '''Juliana''' 25m VS (4c)<br>
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'''Sligo Sloper'''     25 metres HVS 5a <br />
''( M. Daly , B. Proctor - 29th September 2018)''<br>
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''(M. Daly B. Proctor) 29/4/2019''<br />
A further 8m to the right there is an overhang at mid-height and a second overhang near the top. The route climbs through the middle of the two overhangs. Move up to the lower overhang and climb through it. Continue up the wall to a stance below the upper overhang. Climb to the crack in the centre of the overhang and gain jugs above. Mantle over to top (crux).
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Route takes arete 2 metres left of Bluegrass. Slope up diagonally leftwards to reach arete. Climb this (crux) to large ledge below short corner. Up easily to top.
  
3(a) '''Lockdown Lunacy''' 25m E2 (5c)<br>
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'''Black Gold      '''25 metres E3 6a <br />
''(Martin Daly, Brendan Proctor - 8th June 2020)'' <br>
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''(M. Daly B. Proctor) 30/3/2019''<br />
A few metres right of Juliana there is a large ledge at 2 metres. Gain the ledge.
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Route takes the black wall right of Codex. Climb the centre of the wall on large pockets to a horizontal break at 8 metres. Arrange protection and climb the wall by difficult moves, at first on the right, to gain a sloping foothold. Step back left to a small rounded pocket on the wall. Steady oneself and use crimps and side pinches for a few moves to gain a magic jug and gear. Up easily on pockets to top.
Midway along the ledge, climb the overhang with difficulty using the thin crack to gain good stance above. Climb the wall to a detached flake at mid height (thread runner). Continue to stance below the righthand end of overhang.  Climb this, strenuously, to top and belay.
 
Good protection throughout.
 
  
4. '''Lavia''' 25m E1(5b) <br>
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'''Carpetbagger '''23 metres VS 4b <br />
''(M. Daly , B. Proctor - 29th September 2018)''<br>
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''(M. Daly B. Proctor) 20/4/2019''<br />
Start 2m right of 'Juliana' Pull up onto wall by difficult moves and climb diagonally rightwards to stance below faint crack. Move up to base of bulge. Climb this, strenuously, (crux) to good rest. Continue to top.
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Route takes the first groove right of Black Gold. Climb up to a sloping pulpit and from here climb the groove. Step left near the top onto the arete. Climb easily to top.
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'''Ivy Groove      '''23 metres HS 4a  <br />
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''(M. Daly B. Proctor) 20/4/2019''<br />
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Route takes next groove right of Carpetbagger. Climb to the pulpit and step right into the groove. Up this passing 2 steep sections to top.
  
'''''3m to the right of this is'''''
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'''Crack a-go-go'''     20 metres VS 4c <br />
 
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''(M. Daly B. Proctor) 29/4/2019''<br />
5. '''Firestarter''', 20m E1(5b) *<br>
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Route follows curving crack in centre of wall right of Carpetbagger. Start from large ledge. Follow line of crack to ledge below top. Up easily to finish.
''C Ó Fiannachta, J Gilmore. 13/05/2019''<br>
 
This route takes the most direct line through the steep head wall/bulge at mid height. Climb up the niche and bridge left to a good stance below head wall. Give the wall a hug, arrange protection and make two bold moves using small flat holds to surmount this to good holds and rest. The fire has been started. Finish straight up slabby wall.
 
 
 
6. '''Bealach An Laoch Suaimhneach''' 20m VS (4c<br>
 
''C Ó Fiannachta, H. Doherty. 1/5/2019''<br>
 
Start 2m right of Firestarter at the small undercut. Climb up and slightly right of human size notch. Up onto slab and straight up towards the overhang. Arrange protection and make a committing move to surmount this (dont step right!), then enjoy a good rest. Finish straight up the middle of the slabby wall.
 
 
 
'''''2m to the right directly behind the tree lies..'''''
 
 
 
7. '''An Domhan Nua''', 20m, S(4a)<br>
 
''C. Ó Fiannachta, H. Doherty. 27/04/2019''<br>
 
Climb the stepped tongue on good holds up onto spacious ledge. Make your way up into the twin cracks (good gear) and onto another ledge, from here make an awkward move up and over slight bulge and straight up stepped corner groove. Small gear on top.
 
 
 
8. '''Under the Carpet''' 20m HS(4c)<br>
 
''C Ó Fiannachta, I Krella. May 2017''<br>
 
Start 3m left of Moore Street Trader. Climb the bulge and stay left of neighbouring route until joining is necessary at 2/3 height. Finish as per Moore Street Trader.
 
 
 
'''''The main feature of the crag is a prominent triangular face split by three obvious crack lines. The leftmost one is taken by'''''
 
 
 
9.'''(1?)''' '''Moore Street Trader''' 25m HVS (5a) *<br>
 
''(M. Daly, C. McDaid – 27th April 2007)''<br>
 
Climb the left slanting crack to the top. Hard start and finish. Stake belay.
 
 
 
10.'''(2?) Polish Paddy''' 25m VS (4c)<br>
 
''(M. Daly, C.McDaid – 27th April 2007)''<br>
 
Climb the crack through a small roof and follow directly to the top, finishing up a small slabby wall. Stake belay
 
 
 
11. '''(3?)Ganger Gaffney''' 25m E2 (5b)<br>
 
''(M.Daly, C.McDaid - 4th June 2007)''<br>
 
Halfway between Polish Paddy & Tweezer, climb through the horizontal break then up a precarious slab (protected by no5 nut in slot) through the faint overlap/break and then up a left trending crack to join the neighbouring routes in the upper section. Stake belay
 
 
 
'''''The rightmost crack line is taken by'''''
 
 
 
12. '''(4?) Tweezer''' 25m VS (4c)<br>
 
''(C. McDaid, M. Daly – 27th April 2007)''<br>
 
Climb the crack with an awkward initial section. The route gradually traverses leftwards in the upper section to join the slabby wall of the previous route. Stake belay
 
 
 
13. '''(5?)''' '''God of Strathyre''' 13m E1 (5b)<br>
 
''(C.McDaid, D. O’Neill –28th April 2007)''<br>
 
On the left wall of the right arête of the triangular face, there are two faint crack lines. Climb these with minimal protection until a large scoop is gained. Don’t use the arête!! Do not belay on the tree on right hand side and abseil off as it’s dead. Better now to finish up more easily on the cleaned groove on left or further left by joining one of the previous routes.
 
 
 
14. '''(6?) Postie Pornstar''' 20m Severe (4a)<br>
 
''(C.McDaid, M.Daly – 4th June 2007)''<br>
 
The arête immediately right of God of Strathyre is climbed direct, with a step right at half height. Continue up the arête. Stake belay.
 
 
 
'''''Two lines were climbed in the 70’s to the right of this face and are as follows:'''''
 
 
 
15. '''Hanging Tree Chimney''' 25m Severe (3a)<br>
 
''(G. Foley – 9th October 1976)''<br>
 
Takes the chimney to the right of the triangular face. Up chimney, step left at the top, good holds to a tree. Continue to the top. Peg belay 3m back from the edge.
 
 
 
16. '''Tadpole Creek''' 25m V Diff<br>
 
''(G. Foley – 9th October 1976)'' <br>
 
Start right of Hanging Tree Chimney. Scramble easily leftwards to a heather ledge. Climb a series of cracks and ledges to the top. Peg belay.
 
 
 
'''''Further right there is a wall seamed by three cracks. The first two cracks share a common start before splitting after 2m. The leftmost is taken by'''''
 
 
 
16(a) ''' (9?) D+2''' 20m Severe (4a)<br>
 
''(Martin Daly,  Brendan Proctor - 8th June 2020)''<br>
 
Route takes the arete on the LHS of wall.
 
Climb the diagonal leftward trending crack to a pedestal below and right of the arete. Move up and across left to the arete which is followed to top.
 
 
 
17. '''(10?) Teach Urlar''' 17m HS (4b)<br>
 
(M.Daly, C.McDaid – 9th June 2007)<br>
 
Climb the leftward trending blocky crack, traverse right when the heather is reached and top out. Stake belay
 
 
 
'''''The adjoining crack is taken by'''''
 
 
 
18.'''(11?)''' '''Floozy in the Jacuzzi''' 17m VS (4c)<br>
 
''(M.Daly, C. McDaid – 4th June 2007)''<br>
 
Climb the crack direct until a rightward facing groove is gained. Climb this and top out through heather. Stake belay.
 
 
 
'''''One metre further right is another crack…….'''''
 
 
 
19. '''Crack Cocaine''' 17m VS (4c)<br>
 
''(M.Daly, C. McDaid – 4th June 2007)''<br>
 
Climb the crack direct to another heather top out. Stake belay.<br>
 

Latest revision as of 00:08, 19 April 2021

The crag is located 500 metres down the road before arriving at Scailp na gCapaill. 400 metres before arriving at Scailp na gCapaill there is a parking place for 3 cars at the side of the road. From the parking, walk down ( away from Scailp na gCapaill) a further 100 metres and cross a low wall on the right into forest. The crag is 20 metres ahead in the woods. Access to the top of the crag is at the right-hand side. Follow the track cut through the gorse jungle to the top. It is also the descent.

The orientation route, Codex, takes the obvious crack that splits the centre of the wall.

Codex 25 metres VS 4c
(B. Proctor M. Daly) 20/4/2019
Climb the crack passing 2 technically difficult sections. Near the top step left onto the arete and climb the wall above using perfectly shaped pockets.

Kindred Spirits 20 metres E2 5c
(M. Daly B. Proctor) 15/4/2021
Route starts 2 metres left of Codex and at the obvious 'letterbox'. Climb the wall above the letterbox and arrange gear in a rightward trending diagonal crack. Up and left of this diagonal crack there is a foothold. Make hard moves up to gain the foothold and rest. Further difficult moves (crux) and a horizontal break is reached. Easier to top.

Breithlá 25 metres VS 4c
(M. Daly B. Proctor) 24/3/2019
Route starts 4 metres left of Codex and 2 metre left of obvious 'letterbox'. The route follows a faint crack up to an overlap at 6 metres. Climb the overlap up to an overhang at 10 metres. Climb this on the right and follow crack above to top.

Choctaw 170 20 metres E2 5c
(M. Daly B. Proctor) 15/4/2021
Route starts in a groove 2 metres left of Breithlá. Climb the groove to the R.H.S. of the overhang. Arrange protection in the horizontal crack above the overhang. Move up with difficulty and get established on the horizontal crack. Continue by a combination of crimps, side pulls and smears (crux) to gain better handholds and then a small ledge and rest. Up slab more easily to top.

Bluegrass 25 metres E3 6a
(M. Daly B. Proctor) 28/3/2019
Route starts 4 metres left of Breithlá. Climb the blackish groove which trends diagonally left at first and then diagonally back right to a stance below an overlap at 7 metres (first runner). Climb this leftwards to below an overhang. Climb the overhang (hard moves) and get established on small holds (poor rest) at the base of 2 parallel faint cracks (small wire protection). Climb these with increasing difficulty until respite is reached by gaining big T.G. jugs and ledge. Easy to top and block belay.

Sligo Sloper 25 metres HVS 5a
(M. Daly B. Proctor) 29/4/2019
Route takes arete 2 metres left of Bluegrass. Slope up diagonally leftwards to reach arete. Climb this (crux) to large ledge below short corner. Up easily to top.

Black Gold 25 metres E3 6a
(M. Daly B. Proctor) 30/3/2019
Route takes the black wall right of Codex. Climb the centre of the wall on large pockets to a horizontal break at 8 metres. Arrange protection and climb the wall by difficult moves, at first on the right, to gain a sloping foothold. Step back left to a small rounded pocket on the wall. Steady oneself and use crimps and side pinches for a few moves to gain a magic jug and gear. Up easily on pockets to top.

Carpetbagger 23 metres VS 4b
(M. Daly B. Proctor) 20/4/2019
Route takes the first groove right of Black Gold. Climb up to a sloping pulpit and from here climb the groove. Step left near the top onto the arete. Climb easily to top.

Ivy Groove 23 metres HS 4a
(M. Daly B. Proctor) 20/4/2019
Route takes next groove right of Carpetbagger. Climb to the pulpit and step right into the groove. Up this passing 2 steep sections to top.

Crack a-go-go 20 metres VS 4c
(M. Daly B. Proctor) 29/4/2019
Route follows curving crack in centre of wall right of Carpetbagger. Start from large ledge. Follow line of crack to ledge below top. Up easily to finish.