Difference between pages "Howth Head" and "Ballykeefe Quarry"

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Various northside climbers have hoped to find a rival to the southside venues but with limited success until the development of the Deer Park Crag in 2015.
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==Introduction==
  
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Prior to that, climbers found various entertaining bits and pieces which nobody recorded until Jim Cooper explored the Head comprehensively in 2001 and 2002 and wrote down what he found. There are some worthwhile longer routes and many others which fall on the borderline of bouldering.
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[[File:IMG 20200322 173710 6~2.jpg|600px|File:IMG 20200322 173710 6~2.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200322_173710_6~2.jpg]]
  
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The rock is mainly a quartzite and mudstone mix.
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Google Maps: Ballykeeffe Amphitheatre, Ballykeefe Hill, Kilmangah, Co. Kilkenny
  
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In 2014/2015 a group of IMC climbers started developing the Muck Rock area above the Deer Park. Previously described on these pages as
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Ballykeefe Quarry is located between Kilkenny and Kilmanagh (Map Ref. 240700150900) on the R695 (on signpost) aka L26A (on 1/2 inch map Sheet 18) 7.5 miles (12 km) from Kilkenny, 5 miles (8 km) from Callan. On the way from Kilkenny, you pass through the village of Ballycallan (don't blink) in which is located the shop and pub known as 'The Pound' to which climbers usually repair. (Also recommended are Ryan's or Mc Cluskey's in Kilmanagh, two miles the far side of the quarry). The road sweeps around to the south side of the hill, covered by Ballykeefe Wood. The quarry is clearly visible from the road.
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<blockquote>"Looks impressive from a distance but is invisible from its foot because of the rhododendron forest.<br />''(“Bluebell Gully of moderate difficulty and little interest, T Calvert, W R Perrott”, see Bill Perrott)''."</blockquote>
 
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The coastal area is described starting from the start of the Sutton end of the Cliff Walk and following the coast to Balscadden Road at Howth Village. Cars can be parked at the junction of Strand Road and Shielmartin Road or on Shielmartin Road itself. The Cliff Walk can also be accessed from Ceannchor Road and The Summit.
 
  
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The section with possible climbing is about one and two thirds kilometres long on either side of Drumleck Point, east of the Martello Tower at Sutton House and west of Doldrum Bay. It is closer to O’Connell Street than Dalkey Quarry!
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The rock is a crinoidal packstone/wackestone Carboniferous limestone. The rock itself is very strong and has been well-cleaned by the pioneers of the routes; nevertheless, having been fractured by blasting, there is no guarantee that rain and frost might not have loosened formerly-sound holds. Exercise appropriate caution and judgement. Likewise whilst any bolts or pegs which have been placed have been so put with the best care, it behoves each new climber to make their own assessment of the soundness of these.
  
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While many of the sections worth exploring are affected by high tide and only about 7 metres high, there are significant parts 12 to 15 metres high some of which are accessible above high tide.
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Bolts have only been placed on routes that are otherwise unprotectable. They have been placed as sparingly as possible, consistent with safety. Where natural protection is available, no bolts have been placed – including those parts of bolted routes where natural gear can be placed.
  
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Some sections of the rock have shaley dykes and inclusions but there is plenty of good rock. There is some excellent pink quartzite at the west (Sutton) end. Most of the crags face south west receiving the best of the afternoon sun or are in sheltered coves.
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Any climbs bolted by locals were cleaned and inspected and climbed on top-rope prior to bolting. It is important to understand that the bolts so placed were never intended to be fallen on but rather as possible salvation in case things went wrong. It should not be assumed by any visiting climber that a bolt may be fallen on with impunity. Bolts, even if once sound, might fail due to corrosion or fatigue or other factors.
  
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<display_map zoom="13">
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All bolts and pegs have been placed by the pioneers for their own use only. Mention of bolts in route descriptions is not an invitation to use them. Anyone else making use of these bolts or pegs does so entirely at their own risk.
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53.36833, -6.092385~Warning Sign Slab (approx)
 
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53.367716, -6.090068~Red Rock
 
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53.366423, -6.088802~Check out the wall here
 
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53.36253, -6.082214~Sheep's Hole
 
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53.361019, -6.078888~Rusty Wall
 
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53.361531, -6.080691~Mussel Cove
 
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53.362044, -6.074404~Sandy Cove (Approx)
 
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53.362313, -6.071571~Candlesticks
 
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53.364669, -6.053289~Web's Castle Rock
 
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53.385752, -6.047668~Puck's Rocks
 
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53.386389, -6.058889~Cat Rock
 
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53.378665, -6.08127~Muck Rock
 
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53.375621, -6.078438~Lowest outcrop
 
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</display_map>
 
  
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==Deer Park Crag==
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The rock gets polished much more easily than most crags. Concern has been raised about the start of some climbs (in particular the Pigs Wall) becoming polished due to groups setting up top ropes on routes that are too hard, spending a long time at the bottom, and polishing the holds.
  
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[[File:DeerParkIntro.png|center|600px|]]
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Because it is south facing and sheltered, the
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quarry is always considerably warmer than the general environment, especially from Autumn to Spring, when the sun is low in the sky. In addition, the rock dries incredibly quickly, as soon as it is no longer actually raining.
  
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'''Access''' Closest access is from Howth Castle/Deer Park golf course car park (5 mins) – crag is clearly visible from the car park. This is a public golf course and is on the Howth tourist trail, containing the Howth Transport Museum, Howth Castle and the much visited rhododendron forest and Muck Rock crag up behind the hotel on the right side.
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'<nowiki/>'''New Bolts''''
  
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'''Approach''' From the car park walk around the right side of the golf club bar and follow the track leading to the rhododendron forest. Just past the sign “Flowers must not be picked” turn right and take the small narrow left hand track at the small boulder. After approx 30m take fainter left hand track heading upwards. Walk up this for approx 200m (2 mins), ignoring overgrown leftside scrambles, and take further left hand track heading up the steps. 30m along this is up through a rhododendron ‘tunnel’ on the left (the 2nd tunnel, not the 1st) is ‘De Northside’ face. From this 2nd tunnel access to the other sections of the crag is possible by using the rough track that runs along the base (see pic below).  For ‘De Southside’ overhanging face just continue along the track for 20m to the next path junction. ‘De Alcove’ is the elevated grassy area between the two.
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As posted in a [http://forum.climbing.ie/index.php/topic,4324.0/topicseen.html climbing.ie post (retrieved 2011-06-17)] : "it was agreed to increase the bolting on 3 of the less challenging routes to facilitate leading by less experienced climbers. This work was recently carried out by and John F Kennedy & John G O’Dwyer of ''Mid-Tipp Hillwalkers'' on routes where it is not possible to place traditional protection."
  
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'''Aspect''' The crag faces NW so gets sun from mid-afternoon till sunset. De Southside face has a more westerly orientation and gets the sun first. Because of its aspect it may take a while to properly dry out early in the season.
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The affected routes are on the '''Left Pigs Wall''':  ''Push Your Granny'', ''Dented Ego'', and ''Bishop's Nose''. The additional bolts have been added to each route's description.
  
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''Protection Ratings (PR)'': VG, G, M (Moderate), P (Poor)
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==Overview, Parking and Maps==
  
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Climbs listed left to right.
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There is a little car park at the eastern side intended for visitors to the wood; a duck through the bushes here gives instant access to the quarry. Please try to avoid parking at the quarry gateway; the gates open outwards and council lorries need to get in and out at the most unlikely times.
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[[File:DeerParkMainNew.jpg|alt=|center|800x800px|Deerpark Crag Sections]]
 
  
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[[File:Untitledmap.png|600px|File:Untitledmap.png|link=Special:FilePath/Untitledmap.png]]
  
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===Mayan Rock===
 
  
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[[File:IMG 20200323 103040 7.jpg|600px|File:IMG 20200323 103040 7.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200323_103040_7.jpg]]
  
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''Mayan Rock Topo:''
 
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[[File:MayanRockTopo.JPG|center|300px|]]
 
  
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The following two routes are on Mayan Rock, a rock face found in the tree canopy to the left of Pine Tree Ledge:
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[[File:IMG 20200323 104436 7.jpg|600px|File:IMG 20200323 104436 7.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200323_104436_7.jpg]]
  
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'''Daoine Eile  (HS 4b) 9m'''<br />''Niall S. Murphy, Alan Fogarty<br />''Follows the hand sized crack at the left side of the rock face to the top. Belay from trees.  
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==Entrance Wall==
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Entrance wall runs along the road/path to where the quarry opens out. The main feature is the vee-shaped gully of Oggy. The climbing in this section is all trad climbing and offers some of the easier climbing in the quarry. There are loads of conveniently located trees at the top of the climbs for anchors and the walk down takes about a minute via a path that come out to the left of the wall. The grading is quite easy compared to some places like the Gap of Dunloe and is comparable to somewhere like Ballyryan in the Burren.
  
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'''Daoine Maithe (HVS 5a) 13m'''<br />''Niall S. Murphy, Rafal Barszczak<br />''Start at the same crack as Daoine, but traverse out right under the small bulge to the small cracks with good gear, continue straight up. Belay from trees.<br />
 
  
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===Maol Wall===
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[[File:Polish 20200322 213728046.jpg|600px|File:Polish 20200322 213728046.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/Polish_20200322_213728046.jpg]]
  
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[[File:MaolWall2.jpg|center|500px|]]
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'''Sylvester''' 9m VD<br>''G. Fogg. May '99''<br>Up corner to top. Good protection.
  
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Short steep section of the crag which has three faces, one on the left, the main castle facing side and another face around the right side.  
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'''Aristotle''' 9m HS 4b<br>''G. Fogg. May '99.''<br>1m right of Sylvester. Up centre of upper wall. Good protection.
  
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'''Grainne  (HVS? 4c) 9m'''<br />''Niall S. Murphy, Alan Fogarty<br />''A steep short and sweet route. Starts on the right side of the castle facing side of Maol Wall, just to the right of the large detached block, follow the small finger crack then tend rightward. Protection at the top of the route is small or lacking, caution is advised.
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'''Bill and Ben''' 9m S 4a<br>''G. Fogg. May '99.''<br>1.5m right of Sylvester. Follow crack from ground-level. Go straight up or take the right-hand fork at top. Good protection.
  
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'''Cooley Crack (VS 4b) 10m'''<br />''Niall S. Murphy<br />''The large obvious crack on the back of the righthand side of Maol Wall.
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'''Grod''' 9m VD <br>''T.Sommerville and A.O'Sullivan''<br>Bad protection on easy climbing, good protection on harder climbing. Start in the middle between Bill and Oggy, go up the broken face, there is a trapped block about 1/3 the way up you can wrap a sling around. Continue up the broken section of rock until you reach the flat face. Small cam is good here. Continue up, topping out just left of the gorse bush using the alternate finish for Bill and Ben as this routes finish
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[[File:Cooley crack.png|center|alt=|frameless|463x463px]]
 
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<br />
 
  
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===Pine Tree Ledge===
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'''Plato''' 10m HS 4b<br>''G. Fogg, B. Dunne. May '99''<br>2m left of Oggy. Go straight up the broken bulge and go straight to the top. Protection from small wires and small tricam in horizontal breaks.
  
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The easiest way to get to Pine Tree Ledge is from the 2nd tunnel described above in the "approach", once you reach the northside face just walk left along the rough track. Alternatively it can be reached by abseiling down "Navicula" or "Fire Cert" or scrambling down "Scram Bull" if you are confident enough in doing so.
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'''Steering Wheel''' 10m HS 4b<br>''N. Mahon '80's''<br>Up the bulge on the left side of Oggy. Tricam in borehole at top of bulge, small wires above.
  
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''Pine Tree Ledge Topo:''
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'''Oggy and the Cockroaches''' 10m VS 4c<br>''G. Fogg, N. Eager. May '99.''<br>Bridge up the vee to the ledge and then shuffle step up your way up to the crux. Layback to get through the crux. After that its relatively easy climbing to the top. Large and Medium Hex protection but a little run-out at the crux as the crack opens out too wide for most standard gear. Good protection overall.
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[[File:PineTreeLedgeDr.jpg|center|750x750px|Pine Tree Ledge Drone Shot]]
 
  
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[[File:IMG 20200322 182229 8~2.jpg|400px|File:IMG 20200322 182229 8~2.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200322_182229_8~2.jpg]]
  
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'''Zambezi Nights (S 4a)12m'''<br />''Niall S. Murphy<br />''Start just to the right of "Cooley Crack", the climb goes up the corner/gully, good gear.
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'''GTX''' 10m HS 4b<br>''N. Mahon. '80's''<br>Up the arête to the right side of Oggy and finish up flat face
  
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'''Squawk Code (HS 4b)12m'''<br />''Niall S. Murphy<br />''Scramble up onto the ledge to the left of the start of snotser, climb the short slab to gain the ledge below the steep wall, the climb goes up the obvious finger crack.
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'''Ford Wall''' 8m E1 5b<br>''N. Mahon. '80's.''<br>Up the flat face on left side of vee. No protection. Crux near the bottom but don't slip. Finish up grassy slope.
  
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'''Snotser (HS 4b)18m'''<br />''Niall S. Murphy, Rafal Barszczak<br />''Scramble up the easily angled rock to a ledge. From the ledge climb the corner with the off width crack which leads to a short left tending ramp, climb the crack behind the ramp to the top. Or more easily follow the ramp.
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'''Lolos''' grade??
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[[File:Snotser2.png|center|thumb]]
 
  
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'''Fire Certificate (S 4a) 18m''' <br />''Kevin Coakley, Colm Peppard – 2015<br />''Fight your way up through the jungle from the lower path junction (arrow on tree), or abseil in from Pine Tree Ledge, this climb is approx 40m to the left of De Northside face. Start at a V groove in the rock and bridge up for 4m without protection on good holds. Clamber up the groove or the arête to top out on pine tree ledge, belay from the tree with backup.
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''H Fogg 2005  Unrepeated.  Repeatable??''
  
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'''Fire Certificate ''"Alternate Start"'' (S 4a)15m'''<br />''Niall S. Murphy,<br />''An alternative start that is a bit shorter but has some protection available in the wide crack that makes up the start. Two meters to the right of the "V-groove corner" start of "Fire Certificate" scramble up the small earth bank. Climb the crack, tend left at the top of the crack to join fire cert.
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Up the centre of Ford Wall, without either edge. 1bolt.
  
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'''Navicula (S 4a)15m'''<br />''Niall S. Murphy<br />''Starts just to the right of Fire Cert Alt Start, climb the cracks on the right, which brings you out onto the open face, climb the face up to the pine tree.
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'''Cadet Crack''' 10m HS 4b<br>''N. Mahon. '80's.''<br>Up through mini-chimney, make your way to the right and straight up to finish
  
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<br />[[File:Navicula2.png|center|thumb]]'''Dat Dere (S 4a)15m'''<br />''Niall S. Murphy,<br />''Start just left of the "roof" which is close to the ground, climb behind the tree and follow the righthand tending crack, belay from top out or continue up and left to the pine tree.
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'''Rugrats''' 13m VD<br>''G. Fogg. '99.''<br>Crack at back of diedre. Trend right to finish. Good protection.
  
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'''Scram Bull (D 3a)15m'''<br />''Niall S. Murphy,<br />''Easy line that can be used to get up or down pine tree ledge.
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'''Between Rugrats and Jim Crack, there is a selection of possibilities at VD.'''
  
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===Middle Yurt===
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'''Jim Crack''' 13m VD<br>''G. Fogg. '99.''<br>15m right of Rugrats. Follow crack to top. Very well protected
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A less defined section of the crag, can be reached by scrambling up from the righthand end of Pine Tree Ledge.
 
  
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'''Midshift Madness (S 4a)15m'''<br />''Niall S. Murphy, Alan Fogarty<br />''To reach the start of the climb scramble up through the vegetation on the righthand end of "Pine Tree Ledge", (''just past the low roof''), continue right around the corner until the slab is reached. Climb left side of the slab to a ledge, move up the obvious clean groove.
 
  
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===Northside===
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'''Between Jim Crack and Crooked Crack, there is a selection of unprotected slab-climbing at about Severe.'''
  
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''Northside Topo (left end):''
 
  
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[[File:3Piece.jpg|center|700px|]]
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'''Crooked Crack''' 15m VD<br>''Tyndall. 80's.''<br>1m left of the corner. Follow crack to top. Good protection.
  
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[[File:Polish 20200323 233624468.jpg|400px|File:Polish 20200323 233624468.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/Polish_20200323_233624468.jpg]]
  
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'''Three Piece Sweet (S 4a) 30m, 2 pitches PR: M'''<br />''Ian Christie, Colm Peppard – 29 June 2015<br />''Go to the left of De Northside face past “Sharran’s Craic” for 15m till you come to an 8m high detached pinnacle which has a pointed 1m high rock coming out from the ground at the base of it.<br />'''1. (4a)''' At the left end of the pinnacle is a cave and a tree beside it. Climb up onto the arête and continue to top of pinnacle. Step left onto a ramp which trends up leftwards until you come to a point where you can step up right to climb straight up on the slab to an angled grassy area (thread belay). '''2. (3c)''' Move right to cross underneath the roof above and then climb up the crack on the right of it to the top.
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'''First Corner''' 15m VD<br>''Tyndall. 80's.''<br>Follow arête to top.
  
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'''Variation The Sofa Start (HS 4b) PR: P'''<br />''Ian Christie, Colm Peppard – 29 June 2015<br />''Start at the right side of the base of the pinnacle and step onto the detached rock. From here step onto the pinnacle and up delicately trending left to the left arête and to the top of the pinnacle.<br />PR: P No protection for this section hence HS 4b rating.
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==Left Pigs Wall==
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When Entrance Wall ends you go around the corner and there is a small length of crag before you get to the main face of Pigs Wall.  
  
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'''Captain Planet (VS 4c) 25m<br />'''''J. Tremayne, L. Gin- May 2018<br />''
 
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Climb the slightly overhanging crack in the pinnacle. Join Three Piece Sweet and follow it until the overhang below the headwall. Arrange gear and climb up the corner. Move diagonally right up the head wall with interest to the top. .
 
  
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'''Sharran’s Craic (VS 4c) 24m'''<br />''Kevin Coakley, Colm Peppard - 2015<br />''Walk 4m to the left of The Snapper and you will see a vertical crack in the face, this is the start of the climb. The bouldery start is the crux of the climb and you must move up on small flakes and edges above the protection to reach easier holds. Climb the crack above until it finishes and then move left 2 meters into a V shaped short gully and climb this. From the top of the gully trend right over easier ledges following the cleaned rock to a crack, climb the crack and follow the obvious route to the easy finish.<br />
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[[File:Polish 20200323 224327100.jpg|400px|File:Polish 20200323 224327100.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/Polish_20200323_224327100.jpg]]
  
  
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[[File:Northside4.jpg|center|700px|]]
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'''Cliffhanger''' 15m HVS 5a<br>''G. Fogg, N. Eager. 15/4/99<br>''Scramble easily up the left hand side of the slope then follow up under, and find protection in the overhanging crack, beware of loose rock.
  
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'''Kestrel Crack'''  15m E1 5b<br>''M. Manning, T. Brophy. 80's<br>''Above ramp. Climb crack to the top (crux at 2/3 height). Protection is good but is a little tricky to arrange.
  
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'''Nicky Place''' (Diff)<br />''Ian Christie – June 2015<br />''6m to the left of the snapper you come to an alcove, climb this on the left side then right at 6m up the crack to the right of “Sharran’s Craic”. Finish as for “Sharran’s Craic”.
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'''The Eiger Sanction''' F6a 15m HVS 5b<br>''G. Fogg. 5/8/2000<br>''Between the two cracks. Go straight up past three bolts. Crux at top.
  
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'''Sail of the Sentry''' (VS 4b)** 16m<br />''Gary Smith, Colm Peppard – 2 July 2015<br />''Access the start by scrambling up the first 3m of The Snapper and moving a few metres left, along the grassy ledge, to the shallow ‘sentry box’ in the corner. The climb starts here.<br />Move to the top of the sentry box, reach out and climb right and up onto a narrow ledge. Using the groove on the left, move up easily on good holds to the larger ledge above. Move over right to just left of a diagonal crack (possible long runner) and climb boldly leftwards & up with a delicate move (crux) to finish (escape possible to the left before tackling the crux).
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'''Kevin's Corner''' 15m HVS 5a<br>''K. Higgins, B. Dunne, N. Mahon. 80's<br>''Start in the corner at ground-level and follow the right-hand groove to top of pillar at 6m. From here, follow the crack 0.6m to the left to top. Good protection.
  
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'''The Snapper''' (VS 4c)*** 25m<br />''Kevin Coakley, Colm Peppard, Ian Christie – 2014<br />''Immediately in front of the entrance tunnel to De Northside face you will see a large (3m high) triangular block detached from the face, this is the start of the climb.<br />Climb up the block on easy holds and stand on the top, place protection in the flake above and step up, follow the flake left until it peters out. Clamber on to the top (crux) of the flake (subtle move) and reach into the scoop for an excellent hand hold, place protection on your left and move up the slab on crimps and small pockets trending rightwards. Aim for vertical righthand crack above and move up this to finish up over blocky slab to belay point.
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==The Bay of Pigs==
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'''There are eleven drill marks at ground-level counting from Kevin's Corner at left. These are helpful in locating the climbs.'''
  
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'''Sin Binn''' (E1 5b)** 23m<br />''Niall S. Murphy, Alan Fogarty June 2019<br />''The climb starts 3m to the right of the detached block of the snapper. Start by following the fine vertical crack up to the small ledges, just above head height. Move left by using sidepulls and a high step to the ledge on the small outside corner (crux). Using small holds above continue up the vertical face until better holds appear before gaining the grassy ledge, scramble up over easier ground to the top.
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From Rosehip Crack on, there is a terrace. The Bay of Pigs is the bay to the left of Rosehip Crack.  
  
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'''Georgie Burgess''' (VS 4c)* 21m<br />''Gerry Moss, Herbert Herzmann July 2016<br />''Follow the obvious groove to the bulge. The bulge provides the crux of the route and can be protected by small wires. Tricky moves lead to a high jug which helps you mount the bulge onto the small slab above. Continue up the slab to blockier ground.<br />
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The right-hand side of the bay, where the rock rises vertically from bottom to top, has some of the hardest and most sustained climbing in the quarry and has been known since early days as The Pigs.
  
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[[File:Topo_wide2.jpg|center|500px|Topo_wide2.jpg]]
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The left-hand side of the Bay has fewer climbs but has three naturally-protected crack climbs. At ground-level, is the slightly-overhanging blank face of Street Ball Wall, so-called from the fading graffito it bears. This offers some strenuous bouldering.
  
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'''Me Tarzan, You Insane!''' (S 4a) 20m PR: M/G<br />''Colm Peppard, Kevin Coakley – 15 Sept 2014<br />''A couple of metres to the right of De Northside face entrance is a distinct inset alcove just above head height. Climb straight up the inverted triangular face just to the right of this and make a a delicate push up to gain easier ground. Climb the obvious crack in the short face on your left (great view over the top), scramble across easy ground to the face on the left side and climb the diagonal crack with a delicate move to finish (crux).<br />PR: M/G – Protection is good but for delicate step up near the start of the climb gear is below your feet (or over 1m away on a long runner tucked around the corner in the alcove higher up on the left if you wish).
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Bouldering''<br>'''''Street Ball Traverse''' 5''<br>G. Fogg. 31/5/2000<br>''Start with both hands on arête at left, between the horizontal scars, feet on wall only. Hand-traverse to corner.
  
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'''The Budgie Has Landed''' (S 4a) 22m PR: G<br />''Colm Peppard, Kevin Coakley – 8 June 2015<br />''Start 4m to the right of MTYI (as for The Commitment) and just to the right of a narrow vegetated area. Climb goes up left side of the obvious slab, then briefly across vegetated gully and up the obvious alcove on the left at the top. Climb up triangular block (no gear but straightforward) and initially move up right (for a cam placement if you don’t want a long ‘run in’). Strike leftward to follow clear thin diagonal crack running up the left side. Follow this as far as protection/bravery takes you and then cross grassy gully to alcove on the left with a protruding block overhead. Climb up alcove on the right to finish. (Challenge is to stay on the rock and off the grassy gully on your left).
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Bouldering''<br>'''''Street Ball Mantelshelf'''  5''<br>G. Fogg. 1/10/2000<br>''Mantelshelf the wall just left of its highest point.
  
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'''The Budgie {Bites Back}'''  (VS 4c)  20 mtrs  PR: G°  New finish in {  }'''<br />'''''Colm Peppard, Keith O’Brien, Derek Hendrick 23 May 2018<br />''
 
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Start 4m to the right of MTYI (as for The Commitment) and just to the right of a narrow vegetated area. The climb goes up the left side of the slab and straight up the left side of the vertical wall above (the challenge being to stay completely off the vegetated gully to the left and on the rock at all times). {At the top of the slab a few delicate moves (protected by 2 small offset nuts in the obvious small crack running up the left side of the wall) gets you up onto a higher tier (crux). Climb straight up this on the left side briefly (to a cam placement tucked around the side half way up) and then step over rightward to finish out through the top of the Commitment Direct (see following climb).}.
 
  
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'''The Commitment''' (VS 4b) 22m<br />''Kevin Coakley, Colm Peppard – 2015<br />''Start on the 2m high boulder in front of the slab approx 4 mtrs to the right of Me Tarzan, you will see a vegetated gully to the left and a vertical slab and then a V shaped rock gully (sometimes called a Diedre). Climb directly to this avoiding the vegetation and loose rock by staying to the left on clean rock. Place protection and bridge up the gully exiting on the right. Move carefully rightward over loose rock and place a good cam in the horizontal crack at ankle level and climb the arête confidently with small holds to the top.
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[[File:Polish 20200324 011149460.jpg|600px|File:Polish 20200324 011149460.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/Polish_20200324_011149460.jpg]]
  
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'''The Commitment {Direct}**''' (HS 4b)  20 mtrs PR: G  New finish in {  }'''<br />'''''Colm Peppard, Derek Hendrick, Keith O’Brien 23 May 2018<br />''
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Feel free to mark climbs
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Start on the 2 mtr high boulder in front of the slab approx 4 mtrs to the right of Me Tarzan, you will see a vegetated gully to the left and a vertical slab and then a V shaped rock gully (sometimes called a Diedre). Climb directly to this avoiding the vegetation by staying to the left on clean rock. Place protection and bridge up the gully (crux). {At the top move left to the base of the clean vertical wall on the left. There is a diagonal crack running up this which can be well protected with cams. Climb this to the top.}.
 
  
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'''Damn You Newton''' (VS 4c)* 23m PR: G<br />''Colm Peppard, Ian Christie – 8 June 2015<br />''Start is 3m to the right of TBHL and 2m back from the right hand edge of De Northside face. The climb goes up an obvious large leg jamb sized crack which requires a big hex/cam. Climb this with strong moves to gain a foothold to push up to the top of the crack (crux).Trend right past the overhang and move into De Alcove area. Cross this and head for the middle of the slab straight ahead (a little down from the rhododendron stumps). Make a delicate step up right at the obvious lower point. Move up briefly straight (protection placements) and then trend right for the small block on the skyline on your right and finish left around this.
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'''Kevin's Corner Direct''' F6a 15m<br>''G Fogg''<br>First bolted route from left on main wall.
  
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'''Indian Summer''' (S 4a)** 24m PR: G<br />''Ian Christie, Colm Peppard – 27 Sept 14<br />''At the right hand end of De Northside face immediately past Damn You Newton there is a wide crack on the right side of the slab leading to a small ledge at 2m. Surmount this and move up a crack above to an angled grassy bank at 6m to enter De Alcove. Move straight across De Alcove and straight up to the right of the rhododendron stumps following the obvious crack on up to the top.<br />
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'''Miss Piggy''' F6a+ 15m<br>''M Daly, G Fogg  15/7/2000.''<br>Start just left of the 4th. drill-mark and follow the bolts (three). The crux is between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Above the 3rd. bolt, move right into niche and enjoy easier climbing to the top. From niche, two drill-holes provide Tricam protection and there is a piton under the overhang.
  
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===Southside===
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'''Cats''' F6b+ 15m <br>''M Daly,  G Fogg  17/5/2000.''<br>Start at the 5th. drill-mark (left-slanting) and follow the four bolts to the top. There is a cruxy section below the second bolt and again at the fourth bolt where tired arms have to drag the climber past a bulge.
  
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Southside Topo:
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'''Animal''' F6b 15m<br>''B Dunne,  N Mahon''    <br>This is the classic hard route in the quarry,dating from the first phase of development. Originally protected by just three bolts,  Start at the 7th drill-mark on the prominent bulge and go straight up. Use is often made of a rattly 'loose tooth' near the top – it hasn't come out yet – Brian. Sustained.
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[[File:DeerParkSouth2.jpg|center|700px|]]
 
  
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''Deer Park Topo (right) - De Southside [click to enlarge]''
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'''The Last Pig''' F6b+ 15m<br>''G Fogg'' <br>Start at the 8th. drill-mark. Climb delicately up to 4m then follow drillmark to right. The crux is between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. A small Tricam gives protection near the top.
  
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[[File:DeerP South1.jpg|center|700px|]]
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'''Makin Whoopee''' F6b 15m<br>''G. Fogg, B. Dunne. 27/5/2000.''<br>Start at the 10th. drill-mark (half-way up ramp). There are two bolts at the first clip, the right-hand one is in a dubious flake and ought not to be used. The crux is between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Well protected.
  
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''Deer Park Southside Topo (different angle)''
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'''Aardvaark''' F6a 15m<br>''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 5/6/2000.''<br>Start at the 11th drill-mark (at ground-level) to cave at 6m. Follow the line of the bolts to the top, resisting the temptation to escape right.
  
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'''Eva Lution''' (HS 4a)* 29mPR: M<br />''Ian Christie, Colm Peppard, Kevin Coakley – 25 Sept 14<br />''Just before the track junction going up to De Southside face there is a prominent outcrop of rock about 3m high. Climb this (bouldering start) and continue up over boulders to a right trending crack. Up this to a prominent nose (~10m). Go right of this then immediately back left and up a left trending ramp then straight up to the top.
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==Main Terrace==
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From Rosehip Crack to the Ascent Route, the face is divided horizontally by a terrace; all the climbs along this section end at the terrace, except for a couple at the far left.
  
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'''Ali Baba''' (MS 4a)*** 29m PR: G<br />''Ian Christie, Kevin Coakley – May 15<br />''Climb “Eva Lution” but at the top of the right trending crack stay right onto the arête and then keep right on the arête until you can step out on to the main face. Continue up this to the top.
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This area offers a wide selections of relatively short harder grade trad routes and interesting bolted sport climbs.
  
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'''We Do This For Fun?''' (HVS 5a)*** 17m PR: G (cams required)<br />''Colm Peppard – 4 June 2015<br />''Climb goes through the clear gap on the left side of the large blocky overhang. Start is 4m up from the path junction on the left through the 2nd narrow opening where there is a clear rock ramp. Follow the obvious crack moving diagonally right to gain the shelf below the gap in the overhang. Climb straight up just left of the gap to under the overhang (and get a cam in!). Make a brave pull up to seek out a good hold over the top for the fully committed swing across right to gain a foothold to surmount the overhang (crux). There are great holds for this but they have to be found. Above the overhang you have a choice. 1) Step up left and climb the short angled face on your right with the large crack (the original lead). 2) Move up right and climb straight up the slight overhang on the main face using the first crack on the right for a nice vertical finish.
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The Ascent Route is not a climb but a scramble up onto the terrace and is located on the far right where the terrace ends, it is one way to access the terrace where all these climbs end. Note also that there are multiple rings to absail off, one on the far right of the terrace near enough the top of the ascent route, one over to the left of the terrace and a stuck drill bit on the far left, which can be used as an anchor.
  
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'''Lay Back & Think Of Ireland’s Eye''' (VS 4b)** 17m PR: G<br />''Colm Peppard, Ian Christie – 27 Sept 2014<br />''In the middle of De Southside face is a large blocky overhang. This climb takes the obvious line up the right hand side of this. Start is 6m up from the path junction on the left through the largest (3rd) opening. Climb blocky slab on the right side trending rightwards.Move over to your right to climb around and up the right side of the overhang at the large crack (medium cam). Make a committed move to surmount the slight overhang(crux).Follow the crack leftwards to the small alcove above where you have a choice. 1) Make a delicate swing out right onto the faceand climb straight up to the top (the original lead). 2) Climb straight up the alcove for a satisfying direct finish.
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'''Rosehip Crack''' 8m VS 5a<br>''M.Manning. 80's.''<br>Follow the left-trending crack easily to a cave at 6m. A bolt on the left from Aardvark can be used to protect the next (crux) move up and right to the terrace.
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Direct Finish 5m<br>A satisfying finish to this climb goes straight up from the belay cave and through the slit between jutting noses at top. Good protection.
  
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'''Dempsey’s Rocky Road''' (VS 4b) 24m<br />''Kevin Coakley, Ian Christie – 2015<br />''On De Southside face start on a diagonal crack to the left of the obvious promontory (“the pulpit”) . Climb the crack rightwards and clamber on to the top of the pulpit, continue to the right and surmount the vertical crack and bulge (crux) with a good placement below the crux move (as per LB&ToIE). When you make easier ground traverse out to the right and finish up the Arete.
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[[File:IMG 20200323 151533 7.jpg|400px|File:IMG 20200323 151533 7.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200323_151533_7.jpg]]
  
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'''Two Bagger Arête''' (HS 4a) 12m PR: M/G<br />''Colm Peppard, Kevin Coakley – 15 June 2015<br />''The climb follows a direct line from bottom to top going up just left of the 2nd arête in from the right hand edge of De Southside face. Start is through the next opening up from LB&ToIE (4th opening) Move up around right until the 2nd arête is directly above you with a distinct ‘nose’ jutting out as an overhang. At ground level climb the smooth face immediately below the arête with the thin crack (crux) to gain a mini pinnacle just right of the arête. Step across left to gain the arête and proceed up delicate moves directly to the top (ignoring the tempting gully to the left). PR: M/G – Protection is good but there is a short run out at the top (hence HS 4a rating). The top has good hand and footholds and can be bailed either left or right if desired so PR M/G.
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'''Easy Street''' 7m 5c<br>''G. Fogg, B. Dunne 29/12/2000.''<br>Follow the first drill-mark 1.3m right of Rosehip Crack, assiduously avoiding the large flake on the left at 2.3m. The start is tricky and surmounting the bulge can be awkward. No protection. Thread belay at cave.
  
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'''Three Bagger Arête''' (VS 4c)* 12m PR: G<br />''Colm Peppard, Gary Smith – 27 June 2015<br />''As for Two Bagger Arête but instead move left around the underside of the nose (protection placement) and make a committed pull up and step right to surmount the nose. PR: G – On the basis that once you’ve hauled yourself over the nose the short run out at the top won’t bother you!
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'''Undercut Alley''' 7m 5c<br>''G. Fogg (Solo) 26/8/99. (After top-rope practice)''<br>Start at the 2nd drill-mark from Rosehip Crack, 1m right of Easy Street. Follow the drill-mark from ground-level using a succession of undercut holds. Then move delicately right to meet the drill-mark 0.6m to the right at 3m. No protection. Thread belay at cave.
  
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'''Did Anyone See My Golf Ball?''' (S4a) 13m PR: G<br />''Colm Peppard, Kevin Coakley – 9 June 2015<br />''The climb follows a direct line from bottom to top going up just left of the 1st arête in from the right hand edge of De Southside face. Start is just right of Two Bagger Arete. Climb up the small alcove and move slightly right to follow a direct line up the left side of the arête ignoring the tempting gully to the left.
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Direct start 6a<br>''G. Fogg (Solo). 26.8.99 (after top-rope practice)''<br>It is possible to eliminate the second undercut.
  
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'''Fire Alarm''' (VD 3a) 12m<br />''Kevin Coakley, Colm Peppard – 2015<br />''At the extreme right of De Southside face this climb goes up to the right of the arête where a block seems to stand by itself. Clamber up onto a good ledge and climb the groove without dislodging the large loose boulder. At the top climb the cracks to the left to top out easily.
 
  
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==Sutton to Baily==
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[[File:Polish 20200324 005205715.jpg|700px|File:Polish 20200324 005205715.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/Polish_20200324_005205715.jpg]]
  
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From the metal gate at the Sutton start of the Cliff Walk (Strand Rd//Shielmartin Rd), follow the footpath past the Martello Tower. A short distance further on is a yellow warning sign and 50m further on it is possible to descend to the sea and move back under the sign to the base of fine looking slab at least 18m high at its left side. The base of the slab is affected by high tide. This is
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Feel free to add in more climbs to the picture, here is a start anyway. Also need a picture of Sally Crack and Ascent Route below
  
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===Warning Sign Slab===
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'''The Pope's Nose''' 7m HS 4b<br>''G. Fogg. 15/9/01.''<br>About 3m right of Rosehip Crack. Over obvious snout to mid-section.
  
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Warning Sign Slab location: https://goo.gl/maps/wHcHAwhwTGnkhDq88
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'''The Vatican''' 7m VS 4c<br>''B. Dunne, N. Mahon. '80's''<br>2m right of The Pope's Nose. Follow drill-mark past overhanging sharp flake.
  
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'''Lucky for Some''' (V Diff 18m)<br />''Jim Cooper, January 2002<br />''With a difficult start, climb the left side of the slab using the corner. Good climbing.
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'''Ichabod''' 7m F6b<br>''G Fogg solo''<br>1.6m right of The Vatican. Follow the borehole straight up the centre, above the pale scar. Well-protected (two bolts).
  
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'''Lucky Strike''' (HS 17m)<br />''Jim Cooper, February 2002<br />''Start at the right edge of the slab. Step up and left and climb the easiest way up the slab more or less directly. Apart from one move half way up this is easier than it looks. An excellent climb..<br />
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'''Paradise Crack''' 7m HS 4b<br>The obvious crack on the left side of The Slab (piton).
  
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===Red Rock===
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'''Slab Direct''' 7m HS 4a<br>''B. Dunne, N.Mahon. 80's''<br>Climb the centre of the slab. No protection.
  
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''Red Rock location'': https://goo.gl/maps/AvJXEEiz3wsidXnp6
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'''Slab RHS''' 7m HS 4a<br>''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.''<br>Climb the right-hand side of the slab. No protection.
  
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''Immediately above where the Cliff Walk has steps cut into the rock is an easy angled slab of compact rock.''
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'''Shadrach''' 7m HVS 5a<br>The first drill-mark to the right of the slab. No protection.
  
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'''Steps Slab''' (V Diff 10m)<br />''Jim Cooper, December 2001<br />''From the steps, the slab is climbed on either the right or, better, the left. Worthwhile. It can also be tackled from 2m left up a short wall at a surprisingly easy standard..
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'''Meshach''' 7m HVS 5a<br>''G. Fogg (Solo). 26/9/99.''<br>The second drill-mark almost 1m right of Shadrach. No protection.
  
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''6-8m left is a short steep red wall which is an obvious (unclimbed?) challenge.''
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'''Abednego''' 7m HVS 5a<br>''G. Fogg (Solo). 26/9/99.''<br>The third drill-mark, about 0.5m right of Meshach. No protection.
  
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'''Bucket and Slab''' (Severe 10m)<br />''Jim Cooper, December 2001<br />''From below the steep red wall climb the slab to below the recess on the left of the red wall. Climb steeply into the recess (with gorse bush). Exit left..
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'''Dented Ego''' 7m HS 4b<br>''26/9/99.''<br>Climb to the white corner at 3m and up.
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[http://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php/Ballykeefe_Quarry#New_Bolts New Bolts:] Now has an additional bolt for a total of 2 bolts. No bolts were placed on the top section of the route as this can be adequately protected by traditional gear placement.
  
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''The next 15m left is an area rock with ill-defined features but with a gully/corner at the left end. The next climbs find ways up this area.''
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'''Nailbreaker''' 7m HS 4b<br>''N. Mahon, B.Dunne. 80's.''<br>1m right of Dented Ego. Climb to dark corner (bolt) then up.
  
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'''Grilled''' (Severe 10m)<br />''Jim Cooper, January 2002.<br />''About 4-5m left of the previous route, climb awkward left trending grooves which are steeper than they appear..<br /><br />'''Roasted''' (VDiff 12m)<br />''Jim Cooper, December 2001<br />''2m right of the left facing corner, follow discontinuous ramps up left. Then finish straight up..<br /><br />'''Toasted''' (Severe 10m)<br />''Jim Cooper, January 2002<br />''Climb easy angled rock and vegetation to the base of the corner. Start up the corner then step left onto the wall. Either continue left to the edge or, better harder and steeper, climb the wall directly. Poor first half, good second half..<br />
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'''Bishop's Nose''' 7m S 4a<br>''B. Dunne, N. Mahon. 80's.''<br>2m right of Nailbreaker. Climb the nose at 3m and up. No protection.
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[http://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php/Ballykeefe_Quarry#New_Bolts New Bolts:] Previously had no protection, Now has 3 bolts
  
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Immediately left is a short steep (unclimbed?) yellow wall. 25m left is a, not quite vertical, wall.
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'''Clover''' 7m S 4a<br>''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.''<br>Corner 1m right of Bishop's Nose. No protection.
  
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'''Punt''' (V Diff 12m)<br />''Jim Cooper, December 2001<br />''At the right hand end, climb from the lowest point to the top. A pleasant climb..<br /><br />'''Penny''' (Hard Severe 4a/b 8m)<br />4-5 metres left of the previous climb, follow the groove into a recess. Climb steeply left and to the top<br />via diagonal cracks. A good climb.
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'''The Pooka''' 7m 6a<br>1m left of Lady Jane. Climb the blank section between the drill-mark on left and the thin crack on right using side-pulls (poor wire in crack). Mantelshelf the ledge above and easily up.
  
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'''Euro''' (Severe 4a 8m)<br />''Jim Cooper, January 2002<br />''1m left of the previous climb, follow the obvious left trending finger crack to the top. Another good climb.<br /><br />'''Cent''' (MVS 4b 6m)<br />''Jim Cooper?, January 2002<br />''3m left climb steeply to finish next to the previous climb. Short but worthwhile.<br />
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'''Lady Jane''' 7m HVS 5a<br>A quarry classic. Follow the cleaned crack (wire and piton protection). Although short, this is an interesting route which can be climbed by different techniques and may be found to be more difficult than it appears.
  
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===Martello Wall===
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'''Disc''' 7m 6a+<br>Start at ground level just right of Lady Jane. Go straight up past two bolts.
  
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''Martello Wall location'': https://goo.gl/maps/NxTs2EV2WovCTJFx8
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'''Push Your Granny''' 7m HS 4c<br>Just left of Spreadeagle. Follow the right-trending drill-mark. Two bolts.
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[http://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php/Ballykeefe_Quarry#New_Bolts New Bolts:] Now has 2 additional bolts for a total of 4 bolts.
  
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100+m further on, before the Walk descends to the shore,on the left is an area of steep but broken rocks, about 7-8m high, above the path. The central feature is a wall – a difficult looking problem.  
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'''Spreadeagle''' 7m 6b<br>An early test-piece. Start directly below drill-mark in shallow scoop. Work your way up by bridging. (3 bolts). Well protected. This route combines nicely with Widowmaker.
  
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'''Cut the Tree''' 7m HS 4b<br>''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.''<br>Left of bush, past small overhang.
  
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[[File:MartelloWall2.jpg|center|600px|MartelloWall2.jpg]]
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'''Sally Crack''' 20m S 4a<br>''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.''<br>2m right of Cut the Tree. Past bush at 3m to mid-section and continue to top if desired. Plenty of protection but beware of loose rock.
  
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'''Ascent Route''' 14m D<br>''T. Brophy, M. Manning, 80's.''<br>Over clay-parting at ground-level and up ramp, then up left behind detached boulder. Traverse left to mid-section, making airy step-across on way.
  
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'''Barnacle Boy''' (S 3c)<br />''Niall S. Murphy, Rafal Barszczak - Oct 2020<br />''Found on the left side of Martello Wall. Follow the hand side crack to the ledge, follow the steep slab to the top. Solid rock and good protect, top protected by small offset nuts.<br />
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==Above Main Terrace==
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This is the section of rock above Main Terrace. You can get to it via absail from above (dont leave the path blocked) or from the ground via the ascent scramble from the right side. On the terrace itself, there is a ring bolted into the ground on the right side you can absail to the ground from and a stuck drill bit way on the left. This area represents some of the harder trad routes in the quarry.
  
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'''Corner Boy''' ( VS 4A 15m)<br />''Kevin Coakley, Ian Christi<br />''Climb the obvious crack on right side of the crag, good protection allows bridging to overhang, from small ledge climb through gap to large ledge, easy finish up slab on left to nut belays.<br />
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Unaccountably, this section of vertical rock had been largely overlooked until, with this guide in preparation, it seemed obvious that it should be cleaned and climbed for the sake of completeness. The cleaning took place over Halloween 2000 and the removal of surprising quantities of loose rock revealed a rather attractive series of climbs from Severe to VS and with good natural protection. Very useful in this regard are small tricams or hexes for the cleaned clay-partings between the upper beds.
  
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===Sheep Hole Cliffs===
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[[File:IMG 20200323 110021 1.jpg|600px|File:IMG 20200323 110021 1.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200323_110021_1.jpg]]
  
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Sheep Hole is below the Cliff Walk at the east end of this length, 5-600 m beyond the previous cliff. I cannot be sure to what feature the name, Sheep Hole, applies. There are a number of holes underneath the cliff at this point. All this length is tide affected.
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Feel free to mark climbs on this picture
  
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The first cliff is a small promontory with a steep looking wall on its west side. The left edge of this wall consists of an overhanging prow 8+ metres high which would provide a very hard climb. The main feature of this wall is a right to left diagonal ramp up the full height.
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'''Ascent Route Direct''' 7m S<br>''N. Mahon. 80's''<br>Up the drill mark in the corner at the ascent route, then to left behind willow bush and follow drill mark to top.
  
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'''Rampant''' (Diff. 12m)<br />''Jim Cooper, February 2002<br />''Easily climb the right to left diagonal ramp. A little gem.<br />
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'''Feddan''' 7m VS 5a<br>''N. Eager, G. Fogg. 3/11/2000.''<br>Follow the drill mark almost 1m right of Ascent Route Direct using bouldery moves to ledge, then follow the drill mark on right to top. Tricam and nut protection.
  
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'''Man on the Rampage''' (Sev. 12m)<br />''Jim Cooper, February 2002<br />''Starting at the same place as Rampant, climb straight up to achieve a ledge by steep rock. The continuation up is loose so carefully follow a foot ramp to the left to top out at a corner. If the doubtfull rock is removed this might become a very worthwhile climb.<br />
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'''Palatine Street''' 7m VS 4c<br>''G. Fogg, N. Eager. 3/11/2000.''<br>Follow the drill mark almost 1m right of Feddan to ledge and continue straight up the obvious shallow chimney above. Good protection.
  
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'''Ramp Up''' (V Diff. 12 m)<br />''Jim Cooper, February 2002<br />''Climb up the front of this promontory.<br />
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'''The Whangie''' 7m S 4a<br>''G. Fogg. (Solo) 4/11/2000.''<br>Up the drill mark 1m right of Palatine Street then follow the drill mark on right to top.Good protection.
  
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'''30 to 50 metres right is another promontory of similar height. The seaward front of the promontory has a wide crack on the left and a corner on the right. The corner is:'''
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'''Melanophy's''' 7m HS 4b<br>''G. Fogg. (Solo). 14/11/2000.''<br>Follow the left-slanting crack and drill mark 2.5m right of The Whangie to obvious bay. Bridge up this to top. Good protection.
  
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'''Bay Watch''' (V Diff. 11m)<br />''Jim Cooper, February 2002<br />''Climb the corner to a ledge on the right edge. The last 2 to 3 metres to the top is unsound.<br />
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'''Visions of Johanna''' 7m HS 4b<br>''G. Fogg, N. Eager. 3/11/2000.''<br>Start at the crack-line and drill mark about 1m right of Melanophy's. Follow this and trend left to finish at the distinct vee-notch at the top.Excellent protection.
  
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===Ayton’s Cave===
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'''Ezekiel Saw a Wheel''' 7m VS 5a<br>''G. Fogg. (Solo). 4/11/2000.''<br>A boulder problem start and an easier finish. Start between and keep within the drill marks of Visions of Johanna and Ain't it just like the Night, below the sloping flake crack. Delicately surmount this and finish up the drill mark directly above. Be ready for the loose but captive block just below the top.
  
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''Aytons Cave Location:'' https://goo.gl/maps/miFVHRNLGKoQBDaAA
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'''Ain't it just like the Night''' 7m HVS 5a<br>''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 12/11/2000.''<br>Start at the drill mark 1m right of Visions of Johanna, below overhanging flake at 2.5m and finish up the drill mark to the right. The first protection is in the clay parting at 2/3 height. There is a loose but captive block just below the top.
  
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A cave found in the area of the "Sheep Hole Cliffs", a number of difficult bouldering problems are found here, cave is effected by the tide. For more details see Short Span: http://www.theshortspan.com/newproblemdatabase/newproblemdatabase.php or 27 Crags.
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'''Louise''' 7m VS 4c<br>''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 14/11/2000.''<br>Start at the drill mark about 1.5m right of Ain't it just like the Night and about 1.5m left of the abseil ring and finish up the drill mark to the right.
  
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===Mussel Cove (with Block)===
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'''Key Chain''' 7m HS 4b<br>''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 14/11/2000.''<br>Start above the ring and finish up the drill mark to the right.
  
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''Mussel Cove Location'': https://goo.gl/maps/VSqDMAKoZVL9a6h89
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'''Small talk at the wall''' 7m S 4a<br>''G.Fogg. (Solo). 23/11/2000.''<br>1m to the right of the ring. Finish up the broken corner.
  
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After Sheep Hole the Cliff Walk by-passes a headland (not Drumleck Point). The east {further)side of the headland forms a shingle cove that contains a large rectangular block 7-8m high.
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'''Jane's Granny''' 7m S 4a<br>''B. Dunne. 80's''<br>Almost 3m right of the ring, past two small overhangs to top. Good protection.
  
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The two shore-facing sides of the Block may provide high standard sport (highball bouldering) barely affected by the tide and with good landings. The top of the block is accessible by scrambling from the seaward facing side of the block. This has been climbed but not recorded.
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'''Jane's Aunt''' 7m S 4a<br>''G. Fogg, F. O'Connell. '98.''<br>About 1m right of Jane's Granny. Up groove at top. Good protection.
  
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The east facing side of the cove has a large cliff 12+m high. The better looking rock to the left is tide affected. I am told Mick Kellett and friends have made 4-5 climbs on this section.
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'''Monkey's Tail''' 7m S 4a<br>''B. Dunne. 80's.''<br>4m right of Jane's Granny. To ledge and then just right of vertical brown stain to top.
  
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There is an obvious central corner dividing the good from not so good rock (climbed by Des Doyle, no details).
+
'''Sally Crack Upper''' 7m VD<br>''T. Brophy. 80's''<br>To top to the left of Widowmaker.
  
−
'''Unnamed?''' (V Diff 12+m) <br />''Jim Cooper, Autumn 2001<br />''Starting from the base of this corner (but not the corner) is a vague rightwards trending rake that is climbed on, sometimes, dubious rock.
+
'''Widowmaker''' 7m HVS 5b<br>''T. Brophy. 90's''<br>Easily up to top of boulder, then up the centre of the blank left-facing face. Protection in the horizontal parting.
  
−
===Rusty Wall===
+
==Long Traverse Ledge==
 +
It is possible to traverse across from the Main Terrace to the Upper Terrace but it is not to be recommended as a slip here would be serious. It is just as simple to go along the top as ascent and descent to both terraces is easy.
  
−
''Rusty Wall Location'': https://goo.gl/maps/TMgJZaPjEmLoeqQA7
+
'''Painted Lady''' 20m HVS 5a<br>''B. Dunne, H. McNamara. 80's''<br>A most enjoyable early classic. Start past the ramp to an obvious crack at paint splash and follow this to mid-section (excellent protection). From here, continue straight to top, past two bolts.
  
−
''Less than 100m beyond Mussel Cove, hidden below the Cliff Walk, is a steep rust coloured wall. When in sight of the wooden pole with “Telegraph Cable” marker, follow a vague path from the Cliff Walk down towards a small group of boulders which look precariously poised on a small headland. Descend to the boulders, follow left around the corner to a slight embayment with a small pinnacle at its mouth. At the back of the bay is a wall approximately 12-15m high which overhangs 2-3m. The foot of the wall is undercut and forms a small cave. There are challenging opportunities up the full height of the wall, one established route "Interdimensional Fucker" is found here .''
+
'''Après Mars''' 20m F6b<br>''G. Fogg. 8/10/2000.''<br>Start at the moist closed crack almost 2m right of corner of ramp to Painted Lady. Go straight up and follow the protruding drill-mark on left, past three bolts. Then up slope, past borehole (Tricam) trending right towards the white scar and follow left-leaning drill-marks to top. (2 bolts + nut in horizontal break).
  
−
'''Interdimensional Fucker (E5/6 6B) 12m'''<br />''B Hall, K Nelson September 2018<br />''A very steep route on dubious rock but with plenty of gear. Weird french 7b-ish climbing. Step off the block and get involved with the triangle groove. A tricky exit out of this gets you to good-ish holds and gear. Sequential and pumpy but well protected (crucial and tricky to place rock 9) climbing above gains the sloping ledge and undercuts/groove. A few moves right on sidepulls and crack (good red camalot and size 10 wire) bring you to flat holds which are followed back left past a small cam to the top. Bring your good set of arms. Headpointed on the first ascent, all gear placed on the lead.<br />
+
'''Open Book''' 20m F6a<br>''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 4/3/2001.''<br>Gain the scoop at 2.5m. Bridge up this (two bolts), up past the flake (nut placement) and delicately over the rounded section to mid-way. Follow Après Mars or Knock Airport to top.
  
−
[[File:InterdimensionalF.jpeg|center|400px|InterdimensionalF.jpeg]]
+
'''The Prow''' 20m F6b<br>''G. Fogg, C. Murphy. 14/10/2000.''<br>Start below the protruding drill-mark and go straight up to mid-way. (3 bolts). To reach top, follow line of Knock Airport.
  
−
<br />'''3-400m further on past Drumleck Point is:'''
+
'''Knock Airport''' 20m F6a+<br>''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's''<br>The groove to the right of The Prow. Climb groove (2 bolts) and over nose at 8m (sling over bar) to mid-way. Then straight to top, going straight over overhang (bolt)
  
−
===Sandy Cove (with Triffid Slab and Red Dyke Wall)===
+
'''Indian Summer''' 8m F6b<br>''G. Fogg, H. Fogg, B. Dunne. 22/9/02''<br>From the ledge above the first leg of Knock Airport to the top. Two bolts. A route to the top from Gecko or an alternative finish to Knock Airport.
  
−
Location: https://goo.gl/maps/jaAUgAw6Mx7vsVK96
+
'''Gecko''' 10m F7a<br>''G. Fogg, S.Gallwey.15/7/2000.''<br>''Reclimbed after loss of block, G.Fogg, S.Gallwey. 24/9/2000.''<br>This impressively blank piece of rock provides the quarry test piece. Start in the shallow vee-shaped bay below an over-jutting flat face. The original route involved a beautiful delicate balancy rock-over (the 'gecko' move) onto the face from left at the overhang. However, since the loss of a large chunk at the bottom of the overhang (thanks a lot Nigel), the approach is now, more thuggishly, straight up. Once established on the face, and with the top bolt clipped, the target is a jug high on the arête (To get full tick stick to the face and continue to chain). With this (first) good hold, you are up. Well protected (3 bolts).
 +
Chain for abseil. Recently the gate was  removed by someone.
  
−
This Cove is reached by some steps which tunnel through the vegetation.
 
  
−
On the south west facing side of the cove is Triffid Slab that may be up to 15m high. There is a rotten chimney in the middle. If belays can be established at the top (which looks problematic without fixed gear), 4 or 5 climbs should prove worthwhile.
+
[[File:Polish 20200324 030732899.jpg|700px|File:Polish 20200324 030732899.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/Polish_20200324_030732899.jpg]]
  
−
'''Triffid Climb''' (Sev/VDiff 12+m)<br />''Jim Cooper, Autumn 2001''
 
  
−
''The right hand edge/rib of the slab is a good climb at a modest standard but without any apparent protection. To get off this route required a frightening battle with the Triffids (escaped South African Fig Plant?).''
+
'''Komodo''' 24m 6b<br>''G. Fogg, B. Dunne. 23/02/2001.''<br>This route is a worthy neighbour to Gecko. It takes the blunt arête at the right of the Gecko slab and follows the sharp arête above to the Long ledge. Start just left of the wet stripe. A bolt protects the awkward problem of passing the clay wayboard. With the second bolt clipped and the good hand holds above, make the committing move to easier ground and the third bolt. Move up towards the well-defined arête and bolt. A lay away gains good holds at the top of the arête; mantelshelf these. Finish comfortably up the bay (piton) below the trapped block.
  
−
''To the right of the Triffid Slab is a Red Dyke Wall. Though this wall reaches from the cliff base, up the slope, to the top, nowhere does it appear to exceed a vertical height of about 6-7m. If the rock is any good there must be possibilities here.''
+
'''Soap Gut''' 24m HS<br>''B. Dunne, N. Mahon. 80's''<br>2.5m right of Gecko. Over wet bulge, then wide crack at left of the large wedged-shaped block.From the corner at the point of this, traverse left, crossing Komodo, to follow the easy ramp to Long ledge. Move right and climb the bay as for Komodo to the top.
  
−
===The Needles (aka The Candlesticks)===
+
'''White Elephant Direct''' 24m 6a<br>''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.''<br>Start 1m right of the ash tree at 14m. Tradition demands a step up from right using the 'loose tooth' (another it hasn't come out yet). This part of the climb is about 5a but can easily be avoided. Then, move left to the tree at 7m, up through the vee and straight to the top past two noses. Reasonable protection can be found along the way.
  
−
Needles Location: https://goo.gl/maps/Mi8nwGEqX33HbJ5f6
+
==Upper Terrace==
 +
The climbs to the right of White Elephant Direct finish at this delightful sun-drenched terrace, with glorious views and an attractive and interesting flora.
  
−
Note: A lot of birdlife around the needles, best to avoid.
+
For belay anchors, there are some in-situ pegs (test for yourself) as well as some eye-bolts cemented into boreholes at the base of the back wall. Easiest access to this terrace is at the eastern end.
  
−
From Sandy Cove a shore level traverse brings you opposite the two stacks called the Candlesticks. Both are fully exposed at low tide.
+
[[File:Polish 20200324 030732899.jpg|700px|File:Polish 20200324 030732899.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/Polish_20200324_030732899.jpg]]
  
−
Joss Lynam and Bill Perrott climbed them in 1949. The bigger one (“quite difficult”, 8-10m) is an obvious challenge.
 
  
−
Immediately east of the Candlesticks is Hippy Hole. This is an east facing cliff of some apparent size and forbidding looks. Access looks as though it may be via a traverse from the Candlesticks at a suitable state of the tide.
+
'''Stinger''' 17m 6b<br>''M. Daly, G. Fogg. 5/6/2000.''<br>Hardest at the top (hence name). Start as for no. 57 to ledge (bolt). Then up past three bolts. Two pitons provide belay anchors.
  
−
Half way between the Candlesticks and the Great Baily is Lion’s Head dividing Doldrum Bay from Glenaveena. There may be a cliff on the west side but I have no idea about access.
+
'''Mt. Rushmore''' 17m 5+<br>''M. Daly, G. Fogg. 5/6/2000.''<br>Start as for White Elephant Direct From ledge, follow three bolts 2m right of Stinger. A pleasant excursion.
  
−
On the South West facing side of the Great Baily promontory are two or three sections of cliff that may be worth exploring. Apart from sea level traverses, access may be difficult (abseils down steep grass?).
+
'''The Brendan Voyage''' 17m 5<br>''M. Daly, B. Proctar. 15/7/2000.''<br>3m right of Mt. Rushmore. From ground, go easily up the broken ramp, past the clay parting and easily up to clip the first bolt at 8m. Continue past two more bolts.
  
−
==Baily to Howth Village==
+
'''Purging Flax''' 5m HS 4c<br>''G. Fogg (Solo). 26/6/2000.''<br>2m right of the start of The Brendan Voyage. Up the brown stain past overhang to ledge.
  
−
There are three kilometres of extensive and intimidating sea cliffs on the east of Howth Head between the Nose of Howth at the north end and the Great Baily at the south end. Bill Perrott records “About 20 routes, of varying degree of interest and standard, have been made around here by the Old IMC. These usually take the form of cracks or chimneys; there are also one or two traverses. The usual length of the more vertical climbs does not exceed 60 feet. It is suggested that a continuous traverse from the Nose of Howth to the Baily would be the best expedition!!” It would be interesting if descriptions of any of these routes exist.
+
'''Empire State''' 17m 6b<br>''G. Fogg, B. Dunne. 5/6/2000.''<br>1.5m left of the ash tree at ground level. Follow the drill-mark past the 'Ballykeefe hold' at 2.5m and bolt to ledge. Piton at base of pilaster.Up this and delicately past bolt to terrace.
  
−
===Webs Castle Rock===
+
'''Blackstonia''' 15m 6b<br>''G. Fogg (Solo). 26/6/2000.''<br>3.5m right of the ash tree. Move delicately up drill-mark past bolt to easier section trending right to base (nut placement) of pale scar and right-leaning drill-mark (bolt) to terrace.
  
−
Webs Castle Rock location: https://goo.gl/maps/8rYux21oUtYEMtZx7
+
'''The Escalator''' 7m HVS 5a<br>''G. Fogg (Solo). 26/6/2000.''<br>3.5m right of ash tree, at start of Broken Stairs. Make a rising traverse on small holds to intersect Blackstonia at ledge.
  
−
[[File:Webscastlerock.jpg|center|400px|]]
+
'''Broken Stairs''' 21m VS 4c<br>''G. Fogg. (Solo) 26/6/2000.''<br>3.5m right of the ash tree. Follow broken corner rightwards past two bolts and nut protection in crack to first ledge. Continue up short wall past another bolt to the second ledge. Finish up the centre of the blank wall (protection in horizontal crack and in pocket near top) to terrace. Eyebolt belay at back of terrace.
  
−
Gerry Moss with Liam Convery refer to some climbs that I understand to have been done on Webb’s Castle Rock, the pyramidal buttress accessible from above, on the south side of Whitewater Brook Bay (north side of the Great Baily). Poor rock is reported!.
+
'''The Hen's Nest''' 15m 6b<br>''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 12/8/2000.''<br>2m right of Broken Stairs, below neat round niche at 5m. Climb straight up to niche (2 bolts) and out of it again over bulge (crux) to ledge. Finish to terrace up top of Broken Stairs.
  
−
===Puck's Rocks===
+
'''Blood on the Tracks''' 16m 6b<br>''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 3/3/2001.''<br>3.5m right of The Hen's Nest. A well-defined buttress about 2.5m wide has a drill-mark at its centre which starts about 2.5m above the ground and leads upwards to end in a peak at the top. From ground level at left side of ramp, climb up and follow the central drill-mark to a good blocky hold at 5m. If inspiration or resolve fails, the saddle-horn on the left-hand drill-mark provides an easy escape but the real challenge (and crux of the climb) is to finish directly up the centre (nose to the borehole). The second tier is a repeat performance. To the left is relatively easy but the climb goes straight up (second crux). Protection is from three bolts. A ringbolt at the back of the terrace provides a belay anchor.
  
−
Pucks Rocks location: https://goo.gl/maps/VTkZB5xAqFNdB9qn9
+
'''Zig and Zag''' 15m HS<br>''N. Mahon, N. Mahon. 80's''<br>Follow jagged edge on left of smooth wall 2.3m right of Blood on the Tracks, then straight to mid way. Route uncertain at the top.
  
−
From the parking place at the end of Balscadden Road follow the Cliff Walk for a few metres and then take a slight track down to the sea at Puck's Rock. There is a square-cut zawn here where Des Doyle and friends have climbed interesting routes of about 15 to 20m up the back wall of the zawn and across the same wall and up the oposite face and corner. There has also been some bouldering at this location, see link below;
+
'''Evening Press Reissue''' 20m HS<br>''N. Mahon, N. Mahon. 80's''<br>3m right of Zig and Zag. Edge of smooth wall, past small diedre (peg) at 13m to top.
  
−
Flotsam, 7B+ (at Pucks Rock): https://27crags.com/videos/14539
+
==Gromwell Bay==
  
−
===Kilrock Quarry===
+
[[File:IMG 20200323 104821 1.jpg|600px|File:IMG 20200323 104821 1.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200323_104821_1.jpg]]
  
−
Kilrock Quarry location: https://goo.gl/maps/gs6S7h54jQ7V9o1H6
+
Feel free to mark climbs
  
−
Kilrock Quarry above the car park (commonly used for the "cliff walk") at the Howth village (Balscadden Rd) end of the Cliff Walk. The rock face is up to 15m?  The quarry is sometimes climbed with top rope as the rock doesn't always have features for placing protection. No known recorded routes.
+
'''Twinkletoes''' 20m 6a<br>''G. Fogg, H. Fogg. 22/8/2001.''<br>Start at the blank section of rock 2m right of the left-slanting edge of Evening Press Reissue (not part of this climb!). Quality moves on thin holds leads up to the first clip. Thence, under the protruding arête and to the left past the second bolt to the ledge. From here, trend left through the diedre past peg to easy ground.
  
−
[[File:KilrockQuarry.png|center|700px|]]
+
'''The Teaser''' 20m 6a+<br>''G. Fogg, N. Eager. 5/8/2001.''<br>Start in the middle of the bay. Easyish moves lead to the first clip, followed by the trickier crux section. From the ledge, move up and slightly left, past a poor peg, over broken rock to easy ground.
  
−
===Cat Rock===
+
'''Gromwell''' 20m 6a<br>''G. Fogg, N. Eager. 3/8/2001.''<br>Start just right of the centre of the bay. Tricky moves lead to the first bolt. Continue up to the ledge and easily up the central gully to the bottom of the brown weathered wall. Climb the middle of this (natural gear).
  
−
Cat Rock location: https://goo.gl/maps/XRxXH4zya4rSK8bGA
+
==Fear Breaga Buttress==
  
−
Small rocky outcrop off of Balscadden Road, about 15 meters out to sea. Two recorded routes on the side visible from the road, one of which is a trad route, the other a deep water solo route. Far side of the rock has not been looked at yet for routes.
 
  
−
Approach from Balscadden Road, jump over a wall, and scramble down to the concrete structure.
+
[[File:IMG 20200322 174603 6.jpg|600px|File:IMG 20200322 174603 6.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200322_174603_6.jpg]]
  
−
'''Fizzecca'''  (HVS/E1 5a/5b?)<br />''Tyler Grundstrom and Jessica Bowen 25/Jul/2016<br />''15m. On the inland side of the rock, climb the obvious overhanging crack in the middle of the rock. Belay at low tide.
+
Feel free to mark climbs
−
Rock isn't always solid so make sure you check - but it's not too bad.<br />
 
  
−
'''Black Carrot DWS''' (4a french grade?)<br />''Chris acDhuibhne 2019<br />''Deep water solo route. Righthand side of the landslide face. High tide recommended.<br />
+
'''Fear Breaga Ascent Route''' 30m D<br>''G. Fogg. '99.''<br>Start at the left of the buttress and go up a stepped arête to 4m, then weave up and rightwards to pass behind the upstanding 'Fear Breaga' boulder to the right and then bridge up behind the detached block to gain the top. This route is little more than a scramble but needs careful navigation on the way down.
  
−
[[File:BlackCarrot.jpeg|center|400px|]]
+
'''Central Crack''' 6m VD<br>''P. Melanophy, C.Flynn. 19/4/2001.''<br>Climb the crack at the back of the diedre and continue up straight over the bulge. Belay at the Fear Breaga pillar.
  
−
===Balscadden Bay===
+
'''Fear Breaga's Toenail''' 4m Diff<br>''G. Fogg. (Solo). 18/4/99.''<br>In the little corner to the left of the rubble-slope defining the right hand side of the buttress is a sharp-edged crack. Layback this and use a side-pull to gain poorish holds on the top edge. Pull up on these and mantelshelf (crux). No protection.
  
−
Con Cormican climbed some routes nearby in Balscadden Bay but where or what is unknown.
+
==Four-Inch Holes==
 +
'''To the right of the Fear Breaga ascent-route, just below the top, is a section of vertical rock which catches the evening sun when the rest of the quarry is in shadow. The climbs are short but worthwhile.'''
  
−
==Inland==
+
'''Tom Joad''' 5m VS<br>''G. Fogg, P. Melanophy. 27/1/2001.''<br>Start on the scree-slope at the projecting drill-mark 5m to the right of the corner formed by the huge detached boulder at the top of the Fear Breaga Ascent Route. Follow the drill-mark to 2.5m and then move left to the crack at the right edge of the flake (protection). Move onto the flake and continue delicately to the top.
  
−
===Ben Howth Outcrops===
+
'''Preacher Casey''' 5m VS<br>''G. Fogg, B. Dunne. 4/2/2001.''<br>Start at the projecting drill-mark 4m right of Fear Breaga Ascent Route, above a boulder in the scree-slope and follow the drill-mark up before moving left under the overhang.A camming-device in the vertical slot at 2m gives some protection for the balancy moves just above it. Find more protection under the overhang and then move out to clip the bolt and finish up the middle of the face above.
  
−
In addition to the Deer Park Crag mentioned above, there are 4 or 5 small outcrops on the south west and north west side of Ben Howth below a subsidiary summit about 700m north west of the main summit with the mast. The rock is mostly excellent and the views are especially fine. Access is through the quarry on Windgates Road.
+
'''Jenga''' 5m S<br>''P. Melanophy, G. Fogg. 27/1/20.''<br>Climb the broken corner 5m right of Central Crack. Good protection but beware of loose rock.
 +
==Potential Crag==
 +
There is potential for a number of easy to moderate trad routes here. Currently the area is very dirty and there is loose rock everywhere but if someone were to make a project out of cleaning it there is the potential for a number of nice climbs.  
  
−
Lowest Outcrop (5-8m high) facing west with a pillar on the left forming a cave.
+
[[File:IMG 20200322 173523 2~2.jpg|600px|File:IMG 20200322 173523 2~2.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200322_173523_2~2.jpg]]
−
 
 
−
· The pillar is Hard Severe,<br />· The crack out of the cave looks about 5a/b,<br />· The right side of the cave is V Diff to Severe,<br />· The steep rib to the right formed by rock resembling red concrete is Severe,<br />· The wall right of the rib (of more red concrete) is Severe. Beware of the loose final hold if you finish direct!<br />All Jim Cooper, Autumn 2001
 
−
 
 
−
Just above is a north west facing outcrop.
 
−
 
 
−
Further up near the hill top is another north west facing outcrop.
 
−
 
 
−
About 50-100m south east of the above is another south west facing outcrop.
 
−
 
 
−
To the north and facing north is at least one more outcrop which from a distance looks less attractive.
 

Revision as of 00:49, 17 April 2021

Introduction

File:IMG 20200322 173710 6~2.jpg

Google Maps: Ballykeeffe Amphitheatre, Ballykeefe Hill, Kilmangah, Co. Kilkenny

Ballykeefe Quarry is located between Kilkenny and Kilmanagh (Map Ref. 240700150900) on the R695 (on signpost) aka L26A (on 1/2 inch map Sheet 18) 7.5 miles (12 km) from Kilkenny, 5 miles (8 km) from Callan. On the way from Kilkenny, you pass through the village of Ballycallan (don't blink) in which is located the shop and pub known as 'The Pound' to which climbers usually repair. (Also recommended are Ryan's or Mc Cluskey's in Kilmanagh, two miles the far side of the quarry). The road sweeps around to the south side of the hill, covered by Ballykeefe Wood. The quarry is clearly visible from the road.

The rock is a crinoidal packstone/wackestone Carboniferous limestone. The rock itself is very strong and has been well-cleaned by the pioneers of the routes; nevertheless, having been fractured by blasting, there is no guarantee that rain and frost might not have loosened formerly-sound holds. Exercise appropriate caution and judgement. Likewise whilst any bolts or pegs which have been placed have been so put with the best care, it behoves each new climber to make their own assessment of the soundness of these.

Bolts have only been placed on routes that are otherwise unprotectable. They have been placed as sparingly as possible, consistent with safety. Where natural protection is available, no bolts have been placed – including those parts of bolted routes where natural gear can be placed.

Any climbs bolted by locals were cleaned and inspected and climbed on top-rope prior to bolting. It is important to understand that the bolts so placed were never intended to be fallen on but rather as possible salvation in case things went wrong. It should not be assumed by any visiting climber that a bolt may be fallen on with impunity. Bolts, even if once sound, might fail due to corrosion or fatigue or other factors.

All bolts and pegs have been placed by the pioneers for their own use only. Mention of bolts in route descriptions is not an invitation to use them. Anyone else making use of these bolts or pegs does so entirely at their own risk.

The rock gets polished much more easily than most crags. Concern has been raised about the start of some climbs (in particular the Pigs Wall) becoming polished due to groups setting up top ropes on routes that are too hard, spending a long time at the bottom, and polishing the holds.

Because it is south facing and sheltered, the quarry is always considerably warmer than the general environment, especially from Autumn to Spring, when the sun is low in the sky. In addition, the rock dries incredibly quickly, as soon as it is no longer actually raining.

'New Bolts'

As posted in a climbing.ie post (retrieved 2011-06-17) : "it was agreed to increase the bolting on 3 of the less challenging routes to facilitate leading by less experienced climbers. This work was recently carried out by and John F Kennedy & John G O’Dwyer of Mid-Tipp Hillwalkers on routes where it is not possible to place traditional protection."

The affected routes are on the Left Pigs Wall: Push Your Granny, Dented Ego, and Bishop's Nose. The additional bolts have been added to each route's description.

Overview, Parking and Maps

There is a little car park at the eastern side intended for visitors to the wood; a duck through the bushes here gives instant access to the quarry. Please try to avoid parking at the quarry gateway; the gates open outwards and council lorries need to get in and out at the most unlikely times.

File:Untitledmap.png


File:IMG 20200323 103040 7.jpg


File:IMG 20200323 104436 7.jpg

Entrance Wall

Entrance wall runs along the road/path to where the quarry opens out. The main feature is the vee-shaped gully of Oggy. The climbing in this section is all trad climbing and offers some of the easier climbing in the quarry. There are loads of conveniently located trees at the top of the climbs for anchors and the walk down takes about a minute via a path that come out to the left of the wall. The grading is quite easy compared to some places like the Gap of Dunloe and is comparable to somewhere like Ballyryan in the Burren.


File:Polish 20200322 213728046.jpg

Sylvester 9m VD
G. Fogg. May '99
Up corner to top. Good protection.

Aristotle 9m HS 4b
G. Fogg. May '99.
1m right of Sylvester. Up centre of upper wall. Good protection.

Bill and Ben 9m S 4a
G. Fogg. May '99.
1.5m right of Sylvester. Follow crack from ground-level. Go straight up or take the right-hand fork at top. Good protection.

Grod 9m VD
T.Sommerville and A.O'Sullivan
Bad protection on easy climbing, good protection on harder climbing. Start in the middle between Bill and Oggy, go up the broken face, there is a trapped block about 1/3 the way up you can wrap a sling around. Continue up the broken section of rock until you reach the flat face. Small cam is good here. Continue up, topping out just left of the gorse bush using the alternate finish for Bill and Ben as this routes finish

Plato 10m HS 4b
G. Fogg, B. Dunne. May '99
2m left of Oggy. Go straight up the broken bulge and go straight to the top. Protection from small wires and small tricam in horizontal breaks.

Steering Wheel 10m HS 4b
N. Mahon '80's
Up the bulge on the left side of Oggy. Tricam in borehole at top of bulge, small wires above.

Oggy and the Cockroaches 10m VS 4c
G. Fogg, N. Eager. May '99.
Bridge up the vee to the ledge and then shuffle step up your way up to the crux. Layback to get through the crux. After that its relatively easy climbing to the top. Large and Medium Hex protection but a little run-out at the crux as the crack opens out too wide for most standard gear. Good protection overall.

File:IMG 20200322 182229 8~2.jpg

GTX 10m HS 4b
N. Mahon. '80's
Up the arête to the right side of Oggy and finish up flat face

Ford Wall 8m E1 5b
N. Mahon. '80's.
Up the flat face on left side of vee. No protection. Crux near the bottom but don't slip. Finish up grassy slope.

Lolos grade??

H Fogg 2005 Unrepeated. Repeatable??

Up the centre of Ford Wall, without either edge. 1bolt.

Cadet Crack 10m HS 4b
N. Mahon. '80's.
Up through mini-chimney, make your way to the right and straight up to finish

Rugrats 13m VD
G. Fogg. '99.
Crack at back of diedre. Trend right to finish. Good protection.

Between Rugrats and Jim Crack, there is a selection of possibilities at VD.

Jim Crack 13m VD
G. Fogg. '99.
15m right of Rugrats. Follow crack to top. Very well protected


Between Jim Crack and Crooked Crack, there is a selection of unprotected slab-climbing at about Severe.


Crooked Crack 15m VD
Tyndall. 80's.
1m left of the corner. Follow crack to top. Good protection.

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First Corner 15m VD
Tyndall. 80's.
Follow arête to top.

Left Pigs Wall

When Entrance Wall ends you go around the corner and there is a small length of crag before you get to the main face of Pigs Wall.


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Cliffhanger 15m HVS 5a
G. Fogg, N. Eager. 15/4/99
Scramble easily up the left hand side of the slope then follow up under, and find protection in the overhanging crack, beware of loose rock.

Kestrel Crack 15m E1 5b
M. Manning, T. Brophy. 80's
Above ramp. Climb crack to the top (crux at 2/3 height). Protection is good but is a little tricky to arrange.

The Eiger Sanction F6a 15m HVS 5b
G. Fogg. 5/8/2000
Between the two cracks. Go straight up past three bolts. Crux at top.

Kevin's Corner 15m HVS 5a
K. Higgins, B. Dunne, N. Mahon. 80's
Start in the corner at ground-level and follow the right-hand groove to top of pillar at 6m. From here, follow the crack 0.6m to the left to top. Good protection.

The Bay of Pigs

There are eleven drill marks at ground-level counting from Kevin's Corner at left. These are helpful in locating the climbs.

From Rosehip Crack on, there is a terrace. The Bay of Pigs is the bay to the left of Rosehip Crack.

The right-hand side of the bay, where the rock rises vertically from bottom to top, has some of the hardest and most sustained climbing in the quarry and has been known since early days as The Pigs.

The left-hand side of the Bay has fewer climbs but has three naturally-protected crack climbs. At ground-level, is the slightly-overhanging blank face of Street Ball Wall, so-called from the fading graffito it bears. This offers some strenuous bouldering.

Bouldering
Street Ball Traverse 5
G. Fogg. 31/5/2000
Start with both hands on arête at left, between the horizontal scars, feet on wall only. Hand-traverse to corner.

Bouldering
Street Ball Mantelshelf 5
G. Fogg. 1/10/2000
Mantelshelf the wall just left of its highest point.


File:Polish 20200324 011149460.jpg

Feel free to mark climbs

Kevin's Corner Direct F6a 15m
G Fogg
First bolted route from left on main wall.

Miss Piggy F6a+ 15m
M Daly, G Fogg 15/7/2000.
Start just left of the 4th. drill-mark and follow the bolts (three). The crux is between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Above the 3rd. bolt, move right into niche and enjoy easier climbing to the top. From niche, two drill-holes provide Tricam protection and there is a piton under the overhang.

Cats F6b+ 15m
M Daly, G Fogg 17/5/2000.
Start at the 5th. drill-mark (left-slanting) and follow the four bolts to the top. There is a cruxy section below the second bolt and again at the fourth bolt where tired arms have to drag the climber past a bulge.

Animal F6b 15m
B Dunne, N Mahon
This is the classic hard route in the quarry,dating from the first phase of development. Originally protected by just three bolts, Start at the 7th drill-mark on the prominent bulge and go straight up. Use is often made of a rattly 'loose tooth' near the top – it hasn't come out yet – Brian. Sustained.

The Last Pig F6b+ 15m
G Fogg
Start at the 8th. drill-mark. Climb delicately up to 4m then follow drillmark to right. The crux is between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. A small Tricam gives protection near the top.

Makin Whoopee F6b 15m
G. Fogg, B. Dunne. 27/5/2000.
Start at the 10th. drill-mark (half-way up ramp). There are two bolts at the first clip, the right-hand one is in a dubious flake and ought not to be used. The crux is between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Well protected.

Aardvaark F6a 15m
B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 5/6/2000.
Start at the 11th drill-mark (at ground-level) to cave at 6m. Follow the line of the bolts to the top, resisting the temptation to escape right.

Main Terrace

From Rosehip Crack to the Ascent Route, the face is divided horizontally by a terrace; all the climbs along this section end at the terrace, except for a couple at the far left.

This area offers a wide selections of relatively short harder grade trad routes and interesting bolted sport climbs.

The Ascent Route is not a climb but a scramble up onto the terrace and is located on the far right where the terrace ends, it is one way to access the terrace where all these climbs end. Note also that there are multiple rings to absail off, one on the far right of the terrace near enough the top of the ascent route, one over to the left of the terrace and a stuck drill bit on the far left, which can be used as an anchor.

Rosehip Crack 8m VS 5a
M.Manning. 80's.
Follow the left-trending crack easily to a cave at 6m. A bolt on the left from Aardvark can be used to protect the next (crux) move up and right to the terrace. Direct Finish 5m
A satisfying finish to this climb goes straight up from the belay cave and through the slit between jutting noses at top. Good protection.

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Easy Street 7m 5c
G. Fogg, B. Dunne 29/12/2000.
Follow the first drill-mark 1.3m right of Rosehip Crack, assiduously avoiding the large flake on the left at 2.3m. The start is tricky and surmounting the bulge can be awkward. No protection. Thread belay at cave.

Undercut Alley 7m 5c
G. Fogg (Solo) 26/8/99. (After top-rope practice)
Start at the 2nd drill-mark from Rosehip Crack, 1m right of Easy Street. Follow the drill-mark from ground-level using a succession of undercut holds. Then move delicately right to meet the drill-mark 0.6m to the right at 3m. No protection. Thread belay at cave.

Direct start 6a
G. Fogg (Solo). 26.8.99 (after top-rope practice)
It is possible to eliminate the second undercut.


File:Polish 20200324 005205715.jpg

Feel free to add in more climbs to the picture, here is a start anyway. Also need a picture of Sally Crack and Ascent Route below

The Pope's Nose 7m HS 4b
G. Fogg. 15/9/01.
About 3m right of Rosehip Crack. Over obvious snout to mid-section.

The Vatican 7m VS 4c
B. Dunne, N. Mahon. '80's
2m right of The Pope's Nose. Follow drill-mark past overhanging sharp flake.

Ichabod 7m F6b
G Fogg solo
1.6m right of The Vatican. Follow the borehole straight up the centre, above the pale scar. Well-protected (two bolts).

Paradise Crack 7m HS 4b
The obvious crack on the left side of The Slab (piton).

Slab Direct 7m HS 4a
B. Dunne, N.Mahon. 80's
Climb the centre of the slab. No protection.

Slab RHS 7m HS 4a
N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.
Climb the right-hand side of the slab. No protection.

Shadrach 7m HVS 5a
The first drill-mark to the right of the slab. No protection.

Meshach 7m HVS 5a
G. Fogg (Solo). 26/9/99.
The second drill-mark almost 1m right of Shadrach. No protection.

Abednego 7m HVS 5a
G. Fogg (Solo). 26/9/99.
The third drill-mark, about 0.5m right of Meshach. No protection.

Dented Ego 7m HS 4b
26/9/99.
Climb to the white corner at 3m and up. New Bolts: Now has an additional bolt for a total of 2 bolts. No bolts were placed on the top section of the route as this can be adequately protected by traditional gear placement.

Nailbreaker 7m HS 4b
N. Mahon, B.Dunne. 80's.
1m right of Dented Ego. Climb to dark corner (bolt) then up.

Bishop's Nose 7m S 4a
B. Dunne, N. Mahon. 80's.
2m right of Nailbreaker. Climb the nose at 3m and up. No protection. New Bolts: Previously had no protection, Now has 3 bolts

Clover 7m S 4a
N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.
Corner 1m right of Bishop's Nose. No protection.

The Pooka 7m 6a
1m left of Lady Jane. Climb the blank section between the drill-mark on left and the thin crack on right using side-pulls (poor wire in crack). Mantelshelf the ledge above and easily up.

Lady Jane 7m HVS 5a
A quarry classic. Follow the cleaned crack (wire and piton protection). Although short, this is an interesting route which can be climbed by different techniques and may be found to be more difficult than it appears.

Disc 7m 6a+
Start at ground level just right of Lady Jane. Go straight up past two bolts.

Push Your Granny 7m HS 4c
Just left of Spreadeagle. Follow the right-trending drill-mark. Two bolts. New Bolts: Now has 2 additional bolts for a total of 4 bolts.

Spreadeagle 7m 6b
An early test-piece. Start directly below drill-mark in shallow scoop. Work your way up by bridging. (3 bolts). Well protected. This route combines nicely with Widowmaker.

Cut the Tree 7m HS 4b
N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.
Left of bush, past small overhang.

Sally Crack 20m S 4a
N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.
2m right of Cut the Tree. Past bush at 3m to mid-section and continue to top if desired. Plenty of protection but beware of loose rock.

Ascent Route 14m D
T. Brophy, M. Manning, 80's.
Over clay-parting at ground-level and up ramp, then up left behind detached boulder. Traverse left to mid-section, making airy step-across on way.

Above Main Terrace

This is the section of rock above Main Terrace. You can get to it via absail from above (dont leave the path blocked) or from the ground via the ascent scramble from the right side. On the terrace itself, there is a ring bolted into the ground on the right side you can absail to the ground from and a stuck drill bit way on the left. This area represents some of the harder trad routes in the quarry.

Unaccountably, this section of vertical rock had been largely overlooked until, with this guide in preparation, it seemed obvious that it should be cleaned and climbed for the sake of completeness. The cleaning took place over Halloween 2000 and the removal of surprising quantities of loose rock revealed a rather attractive series of climbs from Severe to VS and with good natural protection. Very useful in this regard are small tricams or hexes for the cleaned clay-partings between the upper beds.

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Feel free to mark climbs on this picture

Ascent Route Direct 7m S
N. Mahon. 80's
Up the drill mark in the corner at the ascent route, then to left behind willow bush and follow drill mark to top.

Feddan 7m VS 5a
N. Eager, G. Fogg. 3/11/2000.
Follow the drill mark almost 1m right of Ascent Route Direct using bouldery moves to ledge, then follow the drill mark on right to top. Tricam and nut protection.

Palatine Street 7m VS 4c
G. Fogg, N. Eager. 3/11/2000.
Follow the drill mark almost 1m right of Feddan to ledge and continue straight up the obvious shallow chimney above. Good protection.

The Whangie 7m S 4a
G. Fogg. (Solo) 4/11/2000.
Up the drill mark 1m right of Palatine Street then follow the drill mark on right to top.Good protection.

Melanophy's 7m HS 4b
G. Fogg. (Solo). 14/11/2000.
Follow the left-slanting crack and drill mark 2.5m right of The Whangie to obvious bay. Bridge up this to top. Good protection.

Visions of Johanna 7m HS 4b
G. Fogg, N. Eager. 3/11/2000.
Start at the crack-line and drill mark about 1m right of Melanophy's. Follow this and trend left to finish at the distinct vee-notch at the top.Excellent protection.

Ezekiel Saw a Wheel 7m VS 5a
G. Fogg. (Solo). 4/11/2000.
A boulder problem start and an easier finish. Start between and keep within the drill marks of Visions of Johanna and Ain't it just like the Night, below the sloping flake crack. Delicately surmount this and finish up the drill mark directly above. Be ready for the loose but captive block just below the top.

Ain't it just like the Night 7m HVS 5a
B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 12/11/2000.
Start at the drill mark 1m right of Visions of Johanna, below overhanging flake at 2.5m and finish up the drill mark to the right. The first protection is in the clay parting at 2/3 height. There is a loose but captive block just below the top.

Louise 7m VS 4c
B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 14/11/2000.
Start at the drill mark about 1.5m right of Ain't it just like the Night and about 1.5m left of the abseil ring and finish up the drill mark to the right.

Key Chain 7m HS 4b
B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 14/11/2000.
Start above the ring and finish up the drill mark to the right.

Small talk at the wall 7m S 4a
G.Fogg. (Solo). 23/11/2000.
1m to the right of the ring. Finish up the broken corner.

Jane's Granny 7m S 4a
B. Dunne. 80's
Almost 3m right of the ring, past two small overhangs to top. Good protection.

Jane's Aunt 7m S 4a
G. Fogg, F. O'Connell. '98.
About 1m right of Jane's Granny. Up groove at top. Good protection.

Monkey's Tail 7m S 4a
B. Dunne. 80's.
4m right of Jane's Granny. To ledge and then just right of vertical brown stain to top.

Sally Crack Upper 7m VD
T. Brophy. 80's
To top to the left of Widowmaker.

Widowmaker 7m HVS 5b
T. Brophy. 90's
Easily up to top of boulder, then up the centre of the blank left-facing face. Protection in the horizontal parting.

Long Traverse Ledge

It is possible to traverse across from the Main Terrace to the Upper Terrace but it is not to be recommended as a slip here would be serious. It is just as simple to go along the top as ascent and descent to both terraces is easy.

Painted Lady 20m HVS 5a
B. Dunne, H. McNamara. 80's
A most enjoyable early classic. Start past the ramp to an obvious crack at paint splash and follow this to mid-section (excellent protection). From here, continue straight to top, past two bolts.

Après Mars 20m F6b
G. Fogg. 8/10/2000.
Start at the moist closed crack almost 2m right of corner of ramp to Painted Lady. Go straight up and follow the protruding drill-mark on left, past three bolts. Then up slope, past borehole (Tricam) trending right towards the white scar and follow left-leaning drill-marks to top. (2 bolts + nut in horizontal break).

Open Book 20m F6a
B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 4/3/2001.
Gain the scoop at 2.5m. Bridge up this (two bolts), up past the flake (nut placement) and delicately over the rounded section to mid-way. Follow Après Mars or Knock Airport to top.

The Prow 20m F6b
G. Fogg, C. Murphy. 14/10/2000.
Start below the protruding drill-mark and go straight up to mid-way. (3 bolts). To reach top, follow line of Knock Airport.

Knock Airport 20m F6a+
N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's
The groove to the right of The Prow. Climb groove (2 bolts) and over nose at 8m (sling over bar) to mid-way. Then straight to top, going straight over overhang (bolt)

Indian Summer 8m F6b
G. Fogg, H. Fogg, B. Dunne. 22/9/02
From the ledge above the first leg of Knock Airport to the top. Two bolts. A route to the top from Gecko or an alternative finish to Knock Airport.

Gecko 10m F7a
G. Fogg, S.Gallwey.15/7/2000.
Reclimbed after loss of block, G.Fogg, S.Gallwey. 24/9/2000.
This impressively blank piece of rock provides the quarry test piece. Start in the shallow vee-shaped bay below an over-jutting flat face. The original route involved a beautiful delicate balancy rock-over (the 'gecko' move) onto the face from left at the overhang. However, since the loss of a large chunk at the bottom of the overhang (thanks a lot Nigel), the approach is now, more thuggishly, straight up. Once established on the face, and with the top bolt clipped, the target is a jug high on the arête (To get full tick stick to the face and continue to chain). With this (first) good hold, you are up. Well protected (3 bolts). Chain for abseil. Recently the gate was removed by someone.


File:Polish 20200324 030732899.jpg


Komodo 24m 6b
G. Fogg, B. Dunne. 23/02/2001.
This route is a worthy neighbour to Gecko. It takes the blunt arête at the right of the Gecko slab and follows the sharp arête above to the Long ledge. Start just left of the wet stripe. A bolt protects the awkward problem of passing the clay wayboard. With the second bolt clipped and the good hand holds above, make the committing move to easier ground and the third bolt. Move up towards the well-defined arête and bolt. A lay away gains good holds at the top of the arête; mantelshelf these. Finish comfortably up the bay (piton) below the trapped block.

Soap Gut 24m HS
B. Dunne, N. Mahon. 80's
2.5m right of Gecko. Over wet bulge, then wide crack at left of the large wedged-shaped block.From the corner at the point of this, traverse left, crossing Komodo, to follow the easy ramp to Long ledge. Move right and climb the bay as for Komodo to the top.

White Elephant Direct 24m 6a
N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.
Start 1m right of the ash tree at 14m. Tradition demands a step up from right using the 'loose tooth' (another it hasn't come out yet). This part of the climb is about 5a but can easily be avoided. Then, move left to the tree at 7m, up through the vee and straight to the top past two noses. Reasonable protection can be found along the way.

Upper Terrace

The climbs to the right of White Elephant Direct finish at this delightful sun-drenched terrace, with glorious views and an attractive and interesting flora.

For belay anchors, there are some in-situ pegs (test for yourself) as well as some eye-bolts cemented into boreholes at the base of the back wall. Easiest access to this terrace is at the eastern end.

File:Polish 20200324 030732899.jpg


Stinger 17m 6b
M. Daly, G. Fogg. 5/6/2000.
Hardest at the top (hence name). Start as for no. 57 to ledge (bolt). Then up past three bolts. Two pitons provide belay anchors.

Mt. Rushmore 17m 5+
M. Daly, G. Fogg. 5/6/2000.
Start as for White Elephant Direct From ledge, follow three bolts 2m right of Stinger. A pleasant excursion.

The Brendan Voyage 17m 5
M. Daly, B. Proctar. 15/7/2000.
3m right of Mt. Rushmore. From ground, go easily up the broken ramp, past the clay parting and easily up to clip the first bolt at 8m. Continue past two more bolts.

Purging Flax 5m HS 4c
G. Fogg (Solo). 26/6/2000.
2m right of the start of The Brendan Voyage. Up the brown stain past overhang to ledge.

Empire State 17m 6b
G. Fogg, B. Dunne. 5/6/2000.
1.5m left of the ash tree at ground level. Follow the drill-mark past the 'Ballykeefe hold' at 2.5m and bolt to ledge. Piton at base of pilaster.Up this and delicately past bolt to terrace.

Blackstonia 15m 6b
G. Fogg (Solo). 26/6/2000.
3.5m right of the ash tree. Move delicately up drill-mark past bolt to easier section trending right to base (nut placement) of pale scar and right-leaning drill-mark (bolt) to terrace.

The Escalator 7m HVS 5a
G. Fogg (Solo). 26/6/2000.
3.5m right of ash tree, at start of Broken Stairs. Make a rising traverse on small holds to intersect Blackstonia at ledge.

Broken Stairs 21m VS 4c
G. Fogg. (Solo) 26/6/2000.
3.5m right of the ash tree. Follow broken corner rightwards past two bolts and nut protection in crack to first ledge. Continue up short wall past another bolt to the second ledge. Finish up the centre of the blank wall (protection in horizontal crack and in pocket near top) to terrace. Eyebolt belay at back of terrace.

The Hen's Nest 15m 6b
B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 12/8/2000.
2m right of Broken Stairs, below neat round niche at 5m. Climb straight up to niche (2 bolts) and out of it again over bulge (crux) to ledge. Finish to terrace up top of Broken Stairs.

Blood on the Tracks 16m 6b
B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 3/3/2001.
3.5m right of The Hen's Nest. A well-defined buttress about 2.5m wide has a drill-mark at its centre which starts about 2.5m above the ground and leads upwards to end in a peak at the top. From ground level at left side of ramp, climb up and follow the central drill-mark to a good blocky hold at 5m. If inspiration or resolve fails, the saddle-horn on the left-hand drill-mark provides an easy escape but the real challenge (and crux of the climb) is to finish directly up the centre (nose to the borehole). The second tier is a repeat performance. To the left is relatively easy but the climb goes straight up (second crux). Protection is from three bolts. A ringbolt at the back of the terrace provides a belay anchor.

Zig and Zag 15m HS
N. Mahon, N. Mahon. 80's
Follow jagged edge on left of smooth wall 2.3m right of Blood on the Tracks, then straight to mid way. Route uncertain at the top.

Evening Press Reissue 20m HS
N. Mahon, N. Mahon. 80's
3m right of Zig and Zag. Edge of smooth wall, past small diedre (peg) at 13m to top.

Gromwell Bay

File:IMG 20200323 104821 1.jpg

Feel free to mark climbs

Twinkletoes 20m 6a
G. Fogg, H. Fogg. 22/8/2001.
Start at the blank section of rock 2m right of the left-slanting edge of Evening Press Reissue (not part of this climb!). Quality moves on thin holds leads up to the first clip. Thence, under the protruding arête and to the left past the second bolt to the ledge. From here, trend left through the diedre past peg to easy ground.

The Teaser 20m 6a+
G. Fogg, N. Eager. 5/8/2001.
Start in the middle of the bay. Easyish moves lead to the first clip, followed by the trickier crux section. From the ledge, move up and slightly left, past a poor peg, over broken rock to easy ground.

Gromwell 20m 6a
G. Fogg, N. Eager. 3/8/2001.
Start just right of the centre of the bay. Tricky moves lead to the first bolt. Continue up to the ledge and easily up the central gully to the bottom of the brown weathered wall. Climb the middle of this (natural gear).

Fear Breaga Buttress

File:IMG 20200322 174603 6.jpg

Feel free to mark climbs

Fear Breaga Ascent Route 30m D
G. Fogg. '99.
Start at the left of the buttress and go up a stepped arête to 4m, then weave up and rightwards to pass behind the upstanding 'Fear Breaga' boulder to the right and then bridge up behind the detached block to gain the top. This route is little more than a scramble but needs careful navigation on the way down.

Central Crack 6m VD
P. Melanophy, C.Flynn. 19/4/2001.
Climb the crack at the back of the diedre and continue up straight over the bulge. Belay at the Fear Breaga pillar.

Fear Breaga's Toenail 4m Diff
G. Fogg. (Solo). 18/4/99.
In the little corner to the left of the rubble-slope defining the right hand side of the buttress is a sharp-edged crack. Layback this and use a side-pull to gain poorish holds on the top edge. Pull up on these and mantelshelf (crux). No protection.

Four-Inch Holes

To the right of the Fear Breaga ascent-route, just below the top, is a section of vertical rock which catches the evening sun when the rest of the quarry is in shadow. The climbs are short but worthwhile.

Tom Joad 5m VS
G. Fogg, P. Melanophy. 27/1/2001.
Start on the scree-slope at the projecting drill-mark 5m to the right of the corner formed by the huge detached boulder at the top of the Fear Breaga Ascent Route. Follow the drill-mark to 2.5m and then move left to the crack at the right edge of the flake (protection). Move onto the flake and continue delicately to the top.

Preacher Casey 5m VS
G. Fogg, B. Dunne. 4/2/2001.
Start at the projecting drill-mark 4m right of Fear Breaga Ascent Route, above a boulder in the scree-slope and follow the drill-mark up before moving left under the overhang.A camming-device in the vertical slot at 2m gives some protection for the balancy moves just above it. Find more protection under the overhang and then move out to clip the bolt and finish up the middle of the face above.

Jenga 5m S
P. Melanophy, G. Fogg. 27/1/20.
Climb the broken corner 5m right of Central Crack. Good protection but beware of loose rock.

Potential Crag

There is potential for a number of easy to moderate trad routes here. Currently the area is very dirty and there is loose rock everywhere but if someone were to make a project out of cleaning it there is the potential for a number of nice climbs.

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