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| − | ==Introduction==
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| − | The long limestone escarpment of Murroughkilly faces west and runs north/south above the village of Fanore between Black Head lighthouse and the Khyber Pass road. It can be a good alternative when Ailladie is affected by sea-spray, though it takes the full brunt of westerly winds itself. Given that it is an unfrequented mountain cliff care should be taken with the rock, particularly at the tops of routes. Most of the climbs follow corners and cracks and there is still much scope for new routes.
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| − | Local considerations - If you have visited Ballyryan and feel like a champion after a days climbing and decide to head up to this wonderful crag then read the following.
| + | '''Getting to the Island''' There are two ferry companies serving the island. See Clareislandferry.com & Clareislandfastferries.com for details of sailings and fares.<br>'''Accommodation.''' You have a choice. Less than five minutes walk from the landing pier, and directly above the blue flag beach, is the island's only campsite. Small and basic, campers have the use of the community centre's toilets, wash-hand basins and coin-operated showers, located just 50m from the campsite. There is also a hotel, Go Explore, plus several B&B's and apartments to rent.<br>'''Getting around the island.''' You can walk, hire a bike (or bring your own) or, if there is a group, hire the island's only minibus. The nearest crag to the harbour is 5k away, not a huge distance, but time consuming if walking. |
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| − | The rock quality varies and your safe ascent of many of these climbs require good judgement and steady climbing technique in dealing with loose pebbles and the odd loose mini flake. Many of the cracks on routes can be flared and do not lend themselves readily to nut protection. Making a decent belay can require going 20m back from the cliff top. There are only a handful of easy descents so you may have to walk a long way in rock shoes if you don't like back climbing moderates or abseiling.
| + | '''Note.''' All of the following crags are on land belonging to the owners of Cois Abhainn, a B&B located at the very end of the road leading W from the harbour. Seek permission from them before entering on the lands. Then return back down the road to a gate ('''The Gate''') on the seaward side of the road, at a dip in the road and a stream, about 50 m below the cattle grid. |
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| − | Access - For the left-hand (northern) end of the crag park at the Black Head lighthouse (limited parking) and go straight up the hillside to reach the old ruined fort (Cathair Dhún Irghuis) after about 15 minutes. The crag can be easily seen ahead and to the right at about 450m.
| + | The climbing areas are described from East to West, the routes described from L to R facing the rock. |
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| − | For the southern end park about 1km up the Khyber Pass road just beyond the pass itself. There is a gate on the left. From here cross the stream, passing some sheep pens, and head diagonally leftwards up towards the crag. This route is not great as it traverse alot of broken ground and there are number of 'false cliffs' along the way. Both approaches take about 30 minutes.
| + | ==Scardóg L673-841== |
| | + | From '''The Gate''', while keeping the fence on your right, follow it down and left for about 300m. Cross the fence at this point and go down over rock until Scardóg, a clean, black, NW facing 20m slab, comes into view. Scramble down to the bottom of either side of the slab. The climbs are described L to R facing the rock. |
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| − | [[File:Black Head skyline.JPG|600px|File:Black Head skyline.JPG]]
| + | The first 3 climbs start from the bottom L of the slab, the remaining 3 from the bottom R. |
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| − | (View of Black Head from the North showing Murroughkilly cliffs in the top left hand corner)
| + | '''The Thrift.''' V. Diff. D. Walsh, Andrea Spinu, Tim Nairn |
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| − | An aerial video of the area is here https://www.shutterstock.com/video/clip-1017303724-aerial-birds-eye-view-burren-national-park
| + | Left of the main slab is a narrower slab, with a left facing corner with a crack on its right, and another crack 2m to its left. |
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| − | The crag is divided into 11 separate areas described from left to right (north to south). The height varies from 10m to 20m.
| + | Start. From the same stance as for Car Rose, Climb between the two cracks. |
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| − | Walk from the old fort to the junction of the stone walls and continue in the same line to reach the bay with the clean bulging buttress on the right which gives this area its name. The climbs are on the steep clean wall on the left which is cut by vertical cracks and bounded on the left by a short corner. Left of this the escarpment is broken and vegetated.
| + | '''Car Rose''' HS. P. O’Brien, G.Moss 3.6.2022 |
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| − | ==Doon Buttress==
| + | From a stance, at the bottom L of the slab move up R and climb the steep left facing blocky corner that borders the left edge of the slab. |
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| − | [[File:Doonb.jpg|600px|File:Doonb.jpg]]
| + | '''Black Magic''' S. G.M., P.O’B. 23/6/22. |
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| − | '''OCTOBER''' * HS 4c<br />''D. Walsh, P. Redmond, 28/10/84.''<br />Climb the corner. Step right and climb the left-hand of two curving flake cracks (crux)
| + | Start at the bottom L of the slab. Travers delicately and diagonally R for 5m to reach a crack. Climb this to the top. |
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| − | '''DOOM AND GLOOM''' E1 5b<br />''A. & P. McFarlane, September 1988.''<br />The left-hand of the two central cracks on Doon Buttress.
| + | The next 3 climbs start from a ledge at the bottom R of the slab |
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| − | '''DOONSBURY''' VD<br />''A. & P. McFarlane, September 1988.''<br />Takes the corner/crack system 2-3m right of Doom and Gloom. | + | '''The Squeezed Middle''' V. Diff. G.M. D.W., P.O’B 23/6/22 |
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| − | 150m South there is a protruding buttress with descent ramps on either side
| + | Start at the bottom R of the slab. Traverse horizontally L crossing the lines of First Crack and Any Crack? to reach a continuous crack near the centre of the slab.. Follow this to the top. |
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| − | ==Really Far North Buttress==
| + | '''Any crack?''' V. Diff. DW P.O’ B., G.M 3.6.2022 |
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| − | [[File:RFNB.jpg|600px|File:RFNB.jpg]]
| + | Start as for First Crack Traverse 3m left, and climb the bottom to top crack on left of quartzite markings. |
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| − | '''SCOILT CLEACHTADH''' S<br />''Barry Watts, Nigel Callendar, 17/8/1998.''<br />Climb the crack on the left, the crux is the overhang at the top. | + | '''First Crack.''' V. Diff. P. O’B, G.M 3.6.2022. |
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| − | '''POM'S PARADISE''' 15m HS 4a<br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 24/9/2017''<br />Start 5m right of SCOILT CLEACTADH, follow the thin crack to the top. Protection is sparse in the lower half, micro wires may help, the upper half is well protected.
| + | Step left around the corner on the extreme right of the slab and climb the bottom to top crack immediately above. |
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| − | '''O'DONOGHOE'S CRACK''' 15m VD<br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 24/9/2017'' <br />Obvious wide crack where wall turns South facing.
| + | There is scope for more routes immediately W of the sl |
| | + | [[File:Scardog1.jpg|thumb]] |
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| − | '''DUNE RIDER''' 15m VD<br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 24/9/2017'' <br />Thin crack 3m right of O'Donoghoe's Crack, finish up stepped upper wall.
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| − | ==Far North Buttress==
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| − | This is the cleanest expanse of rock at this end of the crag. The routes are on a small wall bounded on the left by a chimney and on the right by a wide crack and buttress. Descent is by the grass ramp on the left.
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| − | [[File:FNB Left.jpg|600px|File:FNB Left.jpg]]
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| − | '''THE NUTTER''' E1 5c<br />''T. Taylor, M. Flannery, 1/9/94.''<br />The zig-zag crack below the short chimney in the wall at the bottom of the descent ramp.
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| − | '''CORNISH RAIDER''' S<br />''S. Young, D. Walsh, 4/6/85.''<br />This is the big chimney at the left of the clean wall. Step onto the wall from the top of the chimney and climb the overhang above (crux).
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| − | '''PEREGRINE FALCOFF''' * HS<br />''D. Walsh, S. Young, 4/6/85.''<br />The first V-groove right of the chimney. The crux is a thrutch at 8m.
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| − | '''TRUE WEST''' ** E2 5b<br />''I. Rea, C. Torrans, M. Rea, 29/10/85.''<br />Good technical climbing with a bold crux. From the foot of the second groove climb up and right to a thin crack. Gain the capped niche and finish via the short clean corner above.
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| − | '''SQUALL''' E3 6a<br />''T. Taylor (unseconded), 1/9/94.''<br />The thin flakey line immediately left of Bronco. Thin strenuous layaways to a wide niche, then finish easily up the wall
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| − | [[File:FNB Central 1.jpg |600px|File:FNB Central 1.jpg]]
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| − | '''BRONCO''' ** VS 4c<br />''L. Higgs, T. Ryan, 7/5/77.''<br />There are two corners to the left of the wide crack. Bronco is the leftmost. Delightful climb on sound rock. Crux at 3m.
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| − | '''THE DURANGO KID''' ** E1 5b<br />''C. Torrans, C. Sheridan, 5/10/85.''<br />The groove right of Bronco. Excellent climbing, low in the grade, good introduction to the E1s. Start just left of the wide crack. Crux at 2m.
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| − | '''BATMAN LEAVES GOTHAM CITY''' HVS 5a<br />''A. & P. McFarlane, September 1988.''<br />Takes the crack and arête immediately left of Maverick.
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| − | '''MAVERICK''' S<br />''L. Higgs (solo) May 1977.''<br />Start at the off-width crack and finish up the corner.
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| | + | ==Craigmore Area== |
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| − | '''MENTAL BLOCK''' VS 4c<br />''G. Moss, D. Collie, 18/6/85.''<br />The vertical crack on the front of the buttress. Finish as for Maverick. | + | '''Approach''' Go through '''the gate''' and, keeping to the left of the fence, follow it down, passing a junction with another fence . Cross the fence and continue east for a short distance, until it is possible to scramble down to sea level. There is much yet to be done here. The first route follows a dark, narrow, undercut slab just above the high water mark.<br> |
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| − | [[file:mkily.jpg|600px|file:mkily.jpg]] | + | [[image:CLI9aa.jpeg]] |
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| − | '''Mental Block''' | + | 14. '''Van Diesel. HS 4b.''' Climbed in two pitches to avoid rope drag.<br>''J. Reville J. Byrne G. Moss 25/7/12.''<br>1. Gain the slab from the L and climb it to a broad platform.<br>2. Move back to the juggy corner behind and climb it.<br> |
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| − | '''AN MHÉAR FHADA''' * S 3c<br />''D. Somers (solo), May 1977.''<br />After a steep start a pleasant romp up the ramp on the right-hand side of the buttress. Go up and left at the overhang.
| + | [[image:CLI20aa.jpeg]] |
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| − | '''RYAN'S CRACK''' * VS 4c<br />''T. Ryan, May 1977.''<br />The cracks in the smooth steep wall. | + | 15. '''Three Point Turns.''' Severe.<br>''J. Byrne, J. Reville, G. Moss 25/7/12.''<br>This climb is found at the foot of a series of corners around to the E of 14. Start at the foot of a biscuit-coloured corner just left of a dark overhang. Climb the corner to a good ledge and continue up to finish through a break in the skyline.<br> |
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| − | '''RYAN'S GROOVE''' * HVS 5a<br />''T. Ryan, May 1977.''<br />The crack which widens to a chimney on the right-hand side of the wall.
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| − | '''HOWARD'S ROUTE''' E1 5c<br />''H. Hebblethwaite (solo), 26/10/85.''<br />Takes the double thin cracks on the edge of the prow.
| + | <blockquote></blockquote> |
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| − | '''RIDDLEY WALKER''' VS 4c<br />''R. Higgins, G. Moss, 18/6/85.''<br />Climbs the flared groove on the front of the prow.
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| − | '''COAKLEY'S HAMMER''' ** VD<br />''R. Higgins, L. Blood, 18/6/85.''<br />This superb little route takes the right side of the prow on good jugs.
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| − | '''SOFT OPTION''' * HS 4b<br />''D. Walsh, S. Young, 4/6/85.''<br />On the shattered wall just right of the prow there is a sentry box. Gain this from the left and finish straight up.<br />'''Direct start''' * HVS 5a<br />''C. Torrans (solo), 15/7/85.''<br />Climbs the crescent crack to the sentry box.
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| − | '''BURNET ROSE''' * HS 4b<br />''G. Moss, V. Kelly, 18/8/85.''<br />From a triangular recess climb the vertical crack above.
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| − | '''WEST COAST COOLER''' * HVS 5a<br />''V. Kelly, G. Moss, D. Doyle, 17/8/85.''<br />Open delicate climbing, low in the grade. Takes the faint crack starting at 3m.
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| − | [[File:FNB Right.jpg|600px|File:FNB Right.jpg]]
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| − | '''YELLOW SUBMARINE''' VS 4b<br />''L. Blood, T. O Connor, 18/8/85.''<br />Climb the groove, crux at 3m.
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| − | '''GRACE O MALLEY''' ** E1 5b<br />''C. Sheridan, J. Flanagan, 15/9/85.''<br />Good crack climbing. Follow the curving crack, crux at half height.
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| − | '''GREAT WESTERN''' ** E1 5c<br />''C. Torrans, C. Sheridan, 26/10/85.''<br />Terrific climbing with a jug-filled finish around the overhang. Climb the corner, difficult move to reach crack, out left at overhang.
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| − | [[File:Lone Ranger.jpg|center|thumb|894x894px]]
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| | + | <br> |
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| − | '''LONE RANGER''' * HVS 5a<br />''T. Ryan, K. Higgs, May 1977.''<br />Climb cracks to the overhangs. Escape right.
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| − | '''GOLD FINGER''' HVS 5a<br />''T. Ryan, K. Higgs, May 1977.''<br />Follow the crack to the right-hand overhang and escape through a notch, some loose rock.
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| − | '''THRILLER''' HVS 5a<br />''D.Smyth, J.Colandairaj, P.Connally, 17/7/2009''<br />Takes the crack line and roof between Goldfinger and Shakey Flakes, a handy kneebar at the roof lets you check what blocks are solid to pull through it on!
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| − | '''SHAKEY FLAKES''' VS 4c<br />A. & P. McFarlane, September 1988.<br />Takes the rightmost crack system on the Far North Buttress.
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| − | ==North Buttress==
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| − | About 50m south of Far North Buttress the main feature is a distinct V-groove on the left-hand side.
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| − | [[File:NB.jpg|600px|File:NB.jpg]]
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| − | '''A FOSSIL IN MY PRIME''' HVS 5a<br />''Dominic Lee.solo 30th July 2008.''<br />Climbs the rib just left of Lie Detector | + | <br /> |
| | + | =='''Toormore'''== |
| | + | '''Approach.''' |
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| − | '''LIE DETECTOR''' * VS 4c<br />''L. Blood, G. Moss, D. Walsh, 18/6/85.''<br />Takes the V-groove. The crux is gaining the groove. | + | From '''The Gate''', follow the fence down to a junction with another fence on the R. Cross here and follow this fence to a junction with another fence running down from the road. Cross here and go down over grass to the cliff top to a point above the prominent arch - '''Arch Buttress.''' The following areas are described in relation to the arch. |
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| − | [[File:NBR.jpg|600px|File:NBR.jpg]]
| + | Kernan's Corner Wall; Arch Buttress Wall W; Arch Buttress; Arch Buttress Wall E; Choc-a-bloc Wall. |
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| − | '''REEF ENCOUNTER''' E4 6b **<br />''Dominic Lee, Nathan Lee, 30th July 2008.''<br />Brilliant climbing, tackling the cracked rib just left of Billy Muggins. | + | '''A minus''' = Kernan's Korner Wall, '''A''' = Arch Buttress, '''B''' = Arch Buttress Wall, '''C''' = Choc-a-Block Wall.<br> |
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| − | '''BILLY MUGGINS''' ** E3 5c<br />''D. O Sullivan, J. Dugdale, 30/5/92.''<br />The buttress right of Lie Detector exhibits a striking water worn line. Start 4m right of Lie Detector. Climb easily to a series of vertical flakes/thin crack (wires). From the rightmost flake move up to gain jugs. Climb boldly to a rest and friend placements at the second horizontal break. Finish directly. Brilliant.
| + | [[File:[[File:new_approach.jpg]]]] |
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| − | '''JCB''' D<br />''P. Turley (solo), 27/10/85.''<br />Start 6m right of the bottomless chimney. Climb the obvious easy-angled corner to a grass ledge. Scramble to the top. | + | ===Kernan's Korner Wall=== |
| | + | 50m west of Arch Buttress (and across another fence!) is a 20m wide Wall with a platform 3m above above high tide mark. |
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| − | '''BLUESKIES''' HVS 5a<br />''P. Turley, M. Rea, 29/10/85.''<br />Start about 14m right of bottomless chimney in a shallow recess bounded by two cracks. (1) Follow the right crack, crux at 4m. Gain the wider crack, then move up the slabby wall to the left to a grass ledge and belay. (2) Continue up the easy crack in the head wall. | + | 1. '''The Scholar-Gypsy''' Diff. 15m <br>''P. Herbert, H. Olsson 06/07/14''<br>From east end of platform, follow continuous crack in groove to the top.,<br><br>2. '''Roddy's Arête''' Diff. 18m <br>''P .Herbert, H. Olsson 06/07/14'' <br>Start as for '''The Scholar-Gypsy''' and at 10m step out right on good hand and foot placements to small ledge on arête, continue up the arête or step right onto face to finish. |
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| − | '''SLOTH''' D<br />''P. Turley (solo) 27/10/85.''<br />Climb the easy-angled corner right of the arête. From the grass ledge move left and up. | + | ''Scope for more routes on this wall.''<br> |
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| − | '''DELICATESSEN''' S<br />''P. Turley (solo) 29/10/85.''<br />Climb over hollow-sounding flakes to reach a corner on the right. Climb this to a grass ledge and finish up the big chimney.
| + | [[File:K_K_Wall.jpg]]<br> |
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| − | ==North Central Buttress==
| + | [[image:K_K_Wall_2.jpg]] |
| − | An extensive area of good solid rock 50m south of North Buttress.
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| − | [[File:NCB.jpg|600px|File:NCB.jpg]]
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| − | '''RIFFRAFF''' * HVS 5a<br />''C. Sheridan, C. Torrans, 26/10/85.''<br />Takes the left-facing corner starting at 4m above the ground. Interesting climbing with an exposed crux at the overhang.
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| − | '''BLUEBIRD''' ** HVS 5a<br />''K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 7/5/77.''<br />Excellent sustained climbing. Start below the crack. Move right and then left to its base. Finish up the crack.
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| − | '''TROUBLE CHILD''' HVS 5a<br />''K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 7/5/77.''<br />Right-trending crack, 3m right of Bluebird.
| + | ==Arch Wall West L665-842== |
| | + | Immediately W of the Arch, between it and a fence, lies a smooth wall, only the E side of which is developed because of birds nesting to the W. Climbs are described L to R, and all start on a high-water platform reached by abseil. |
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| − | '''THE QUIET CLAM''' ** 20m E5 6a<br />''Dominic Lee, Nathan Lee, 9th August 2010.''<br />Steep climbing taking the central line of North Buttress direct via a crack and hanging flakes. Finish up the corner above. | + | 1 '''Avian Anger''' VS4b 15m P. O’Brien, D. Walsh 6.6.2022 |
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| − | '''FOSSIL FUEL''' ** 20m E6 6b<br />''Dominic Lee, Nathan Lee, 9th August 2010.''<br />Climbs the incision left of Hard Tack, gaining it directly via flakes and undercuts. Continue up the water-worn groove above the break to join and finish up The Quiet Clam.
| + | Start as for route 2, moving with difficulty up and L until a horizontal weakness yields holds, protection, and nice climbing all the way to the top. |
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| − | '''HARD TACK''' * E1 5c<br />''C. Torrans, C. Sheridan, 27/10/85.''<br />Strange jamming sequence to get into the pod. The route does continue to the top of the crag but it's best to abseil off from the fixed point. | + | 2. '''Seaga Ciúin.''' V. Diff 15m D. Walsh, P. O’Brien 6.6.2022 |
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| − | '''GOOD CRACK''' * VS 4c<br />''C. Torrans, I. Rea, 29/10/85.''<br />Nice climbing on firm rock. The crack is not as wide as it looks. Abseil off.
| + | Climb the bottom to top crack up the right side of the wall, up and slightly rightwards. Best moves at the top. Lovely. |
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| − | ==Central Buttress==
| + | 3 '''Corner Boy''' V. Diff 12m D. Walsh, P. O’Brien 6.6.2022 |
| − | Easily recognised by the small clump of trees and a sheep pen slightly to its right. The biggest of the crags with a fine main wall. The routes are described in relation to a small tree beside the off-width crack of Cromwell.
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| − | [[File:Central.jpg|600px|File:Central.jpg]]
| + | Separated from the smooth wall by a ramp is a stepped square shaped corner that provides one nice move right at the top. |
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| − | '''SLI NA FIRINNE''' HVS 5a<br />''C. Sheridan, C. Torrans, 5/5/96.''<br />This route takes the second crack left of the small tree which runs into a small overhang. Climb the crack and pass the overhang on the right to reach a grassy ramp. Continue up the awkward crack above. Treat the rock with care.
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| − | '''PRAMALAMADINGDONG''' * E2 5c<br />''C. Torrans, D. O Connell, September 1991.''<br />A good route which takes the crack just to the left of the small tree. Climb up the crack to a break and traverse left past a tree to a ledge. The going gets sweaty on the thin crack which leads to the top. There is a stake up on the right for belaying.
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| − | '''THE NEW HEATHENS''' * E3 5c<br />''C. Torrans, S. McEvoy, September 1991.''<br />A bold start leads to a good crack to finish. The route climbs the wall just left of the small tree. Gain the flakes just right of the crack and follow these rightwards to the top of the right-hand crack. Move slightly left to the bottom of another crack and a good thread. Climb the crack above with increasing difficulty. Belay on the stake.
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| − | '''CROMWELL''' E3 5c<br />''C. Torrans, D. O Sullivan, October 1991.''<br />Low in the grade and enjoyable, so a good one to push it out (or hold it back). The climb takes the wide left-facing crack which runs from beside the tree up and over the break and bulge to reach a dog-leg crack, all quite sustained. Follow the doggy's crack to the top and tie yourself to the stake.
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| − | '''HINTS AND ALLEGATIONS''' * E3 6a<br />''C. Torrans, D. O Sullivan, 7/9/86.''<br />A technical and strenuous route with reasonable protection. The climb follows the light-coloured stain in the middle of Central Buttress. Climb easily over a bulge to a short groove. Up this to a sloping ledge. Move right and gain the top of a flake. The short crack on the left leads to a huge hidden jug and a horizontal break. Continue up the crack above (crux) with difficult finger jamming to a jug on the left. Continue with difficulty to a break and follow the crack to easy ground, exiting right.
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| − | '''HY-BRASIL''' ** E1 5b<br />''C. Sheridan, I. Rea, C. Torrans, 27/10/85.''<br />Superb climbing on excellent rock with the crux at the right place at the final overhang. Start at the sloping ledge at the clean wall on the right side of the buttress. The route takes the corner with the small tree stump and the crack above. (Re-cleaned by Ronan Keane, July 2011.)
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| − | '''NEBRASKA''' ** E2 5c<br />''C. Torrans, C. Sheridan, 27/10/85.''<br />An excellent pitch, strenuous and technical with good protection. The crux is at the thin crack which goes left and then right near the top. Climb the wide crack which runs up to form the right side of the big flake shared by Hy Brasil. Continue up the crack to the overhang and gain the crack which runs up left. Climb this to the top.
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| − | ==South Central Buttress==
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| − | An extensive area immediately right of Central Buttress, bounded on the left by the small clump of trees and on the right by the descent ramp.
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| − | '''FREELANCE''' ** VS 4c<br />''G. Smyth, D. McMahon, 6/7/85.''<br />The right-hand of two prominent corners. The crux is gaining the bottom of the corner (awkward).
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| − | ==South Buttress==
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| − | Separated from South Central Buttress by the descent ramp and bounded on the right by an old wall.
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| − | [[File:SB.jpg|600px|File:SB.jpg]]
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| − | ''Murroughkilly South Buttress''
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| − | '''DISTRUST THE STARS''' ** HVS 5a<br />''D. Walsh, S. Young, 4/6/85.''<br />Excellent climbing on sound rock. High in the grade. Takes the left-facing stacked corners just right of the descent ramp. Exit left around the overhang at the top (crux just below the overhang).
| + | <br /> |
| | + | ===Arch Buttress=== |
| | + | GR 665 842. These routes are on the buttress with the prominent arch, almost directly below the end of the fence. Access is gained by scrambling halfway down the sloping ramp which starts a few m. E of the fence, stepping across the narrow channel (easier at low tide), and scrambling up and back right to reach the foot of the seaward face. |
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| − | '''DELIVERANCE''' * E3 6a<br />''D. O Sullivan, C. Torrans, September 1986.''<br />Steep interesting climbing up the right wall of Distrust The Stars. Start 5m right of this route at a short leftward trending crack. Follow this to a ledge. Place protection in the crack on the right and then traverse left to a line of flakes. Follow the flakes to a jug and then launch up to gain the horizontal break. Traverse left and finish up the twin cracks. The belay is well back in some clints. | + | 1 '''Arch Rivals.''' Diff. G. Moss, C. McGovern. 4/6/22 |
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| − | '''UPLIFT''' * VS 4c<br />''D. McMahon, G. Smyth, 7/7/85.''<br />Well protected and steeper than it looks.
| + | The L edge of the face. |
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| − | '''RAIN STOPS SE''' HS 4b<br />''M. Keyes, B. Thorn, 3/8/85.''<br />A white, north-facing corner. | + | 2. '''Arch Central,''' 15m VD, P O'Brien, A Spinu, T Nairn. 4-6-22 |
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| − | [[File:South Buttress1.jpg|600px|File:South Buttress1.jpg]]
| + | Start at the base centre of the face and climb up the middle of the wall to the top. |
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| − | '''ABOUT TIME TOO''' * VS 4c<br />''P. Ewen, K. Higgs, June 1977.''<br />Take the right-hand of the two pods. Gain the crack and exit left through the wide chimney. | + | 3'''. Arch Arete.''' V. Diff. ''G.Moss, J.Byrne., J.Reville. 26/7/12.''<br>The R arete of the face of the buttress. |
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| − | '''RAIN DANCE''' VS<br />''K. Higgs, P. Ewen, June 1977.''<br />Just right of the pod there is a flared groove and crack leading to an overhang. Exit right around the overhang.
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| | | | |
| − | '''WOUNDED KNEE''' HVS 5a<br />''M. Keyes, D. Somers, August 1989.''<br />Start at the crackline between Rain Dance and Land Of The Free. Follow the crackline until it peters out at two-thirds height. Climb the wall and slab above and finish up the top corner of Land Of The Free. The hollow flake at 4m adds some interest.
| + | [[image:CLI2aa.jpeg]] |
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| − | '''LAND OF THE FREE''' ** VS 4c<br />''D. Walsh, D. McMahon, 6/7/85.''<br />The left-hand of the two cracks. Climb this to a slab. Mantelshelf (thread runner) and traverse left and finish up the crack in the corner.
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| | | | |
| − | '''HOME OF THE BRAVE''' ** HVS 5a<br />''D. Walsh, G. Smyth, 7/7/85.''<br />Start just left of the north-facing corner up dubious rock for 3m to the base of the magnificent layback crack. Up this for 7m to a slab. Mantelshelf and move right (delicate crux). Finish up the clean corner.
| + | [[image:CLI3a.jpeg]] |
| | | | |
| − | '''EMIGRANT'S LEGACY''' S<br />''M. Keyes, B. Thorn, 3/8/85.''<br />The north-facing corner just right of Home of the Brave. The two routes finish together.
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| | | | |
| − | ==Far South Buttress==
| + | '''Arch Buttress Wall.'''<br>The next five routes are on the wall to the east of Arch Buttress and are reached by scrambling down the sloping ramp mentioned above. The climbs are described from left to right |
| − | Easily identified by a wall running up to its base and a nose at 10m, prominent in profile.
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| | | | |
| − | [[File:FSB Left.jpg|600px|File:FSB Left.jpg]]
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| − | '''HIGH DUDGEON''' ** HVS 5a<br />''D. Walsh, S. Barrett, C. O Higgins, 14/9/84.''<br />A north-facing corner 20m left of the wall. Strenuous and sustained after the ledge at 3m. Well protected.
| + | [[image:CLI4ad.jpeg]] |
| | | | |
| − | '''FRESH FIELDS''' ** VS 4c<br />''D. Walsh, C. Brogan, June 1984.''<br />A Y-shaped corner 10m left of the wall. The crux is the leftward traverse at half height to gain the left-hand corner. Trust the small hold just around the corner.
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| | | | |
| − | '''SQUATTING''' E2 6a<br />''D. O Sullivan, J. Dugdale, 30/5/92.''<br />Takes the left nose direct. Start 3m left of Tiger's Tail. Hard climbing up the sickle-shaped crack gains the jug at its apex. Climb directly up to the terrace. Move left onto the nose and finish up the left-facing groove. | + | 2. '''Generous John.''' V. Diff.<br>''J. Reville, J. Byrne, G. Moss 26/7/12.''<br>The left-hand and narrower of two cracks near the bottom of the sloping ramp. |
| | | | |
| − | '''TIGER'S TAIL''' ** VS 4c<br />''D. Walsh, C. O Higgins, S. Barrett, 14/9/85.''<br />The left-hand nose. Start just right of the wall and climb the chimney. Step left and gain the nose by swinging on a jug. Finish unexpectedly up the right-hand crack (strenuous). | + | 3. '''PeuJoe''' V. Diff.<br>''J. Byrne, J. Reville, G. Moss 26/7/12.''<br>The righthand and deeper of the two cracks near the bottom of the ramp. |
| | | | |
| − | '''TANTRUM''' ** E4 6b<br />''D. O Sullivan, J. Dugdale, 30/5/92.''<br />An obvious challenge offering fierce bouldery climbing. Start 2m left of Lion's Mouth. Crank the thin crack, passing a peg runner en route, to a more classic finish up a left-facing corner and continuation crack. | + | 4. '''Pulpits''' V. Diff. |
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| − | '''LION'S MOUTH''' ** HVS 5a<br />''D. Walsh, C. O Higgins, S. Barrett, 14/9/85.''<br />A photogenic route. The right-hand nose is reached by a strenuous chimney (crux). Climb through a notch in the overhang, up and out onto the nose on the left. Make a dynamic mantelshelf and finish up a rightward crack above
| + | D. Walsh, C. Duffy 4.6.2022 |
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| − | '''EYE OF THE TIGER''' ** E1 5b<br />''R. Higgins, D. Walsh, 18/6/85.''<br />The rightward-trending crack just right of Lion's Mouth. Sustained and well protected. Belay on the grass ramp. Continue easily up the ramp on the left and the corner.
| + | Start as for PeuJoe and climb the shallow groove directly above, passing the large overhang on the right. The protection gets sparse with height but the holds keep coming. |
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| − | ==Afghan Walls==
| + | 5. '''Ripple Arete'''. Severe B. Walker, W. Blanchfield. . 4.6.2022 |
| | | | |
| − | 150m past/South of Eye of the Tiger there is a large buttress with numerous shallow corners and cracks.
| + | Climb the rib immediately on the right of Pulpits. Crux at top. |
| − | There is a steep ascent/descent route on the right which is about has a move of D. For cliff top belays careful scrutiny of two stone 'altars' near the descent will reveal good nut belays.
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| − | [[File:Hs&FRR.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]
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| | + | The next 4 routes are reached by scrambling down to the bottom of the ramp and stepping across a gap to reach a ledge at the foot of a prominent left facing corner. |
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| − | '''HOMO SOVIETICUS''' HVS 5a | + | 5. '''First Gear All The Way'''. V.Diff. |
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| − | ''Gerry Galligan. Barry Watts, 4/9/2021''
| + | J. Byrne, J. Reville, G. Moss 27/7/12. |
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| − | Start just left of '''FLAKE RATTLE AND ROAR''', climb the steep wide crack to a grassy ledge, continue up the groove above (crux).
| + | Climb the continuous crack L of the corner. |
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| − | '''FLAKE RATTLE AND ROAR''' HS 4a<br />''M. Keyes, L. Yallop, B. McNelis, July 1988.''<br />This route follows the first series of overlapping flakes on the broken wall on the far right of Far South Buttress. Exit carefully left at the top. | + | 6. '''The Way That I went'''. S.(see photo) |
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| − | [[File:FINALAW.jpg|600px|File:FINALAW.jpg]]
| + | Start. As for First Gear All The Way. Move up R and follow a line just L of the arête, stepping R onto the arête for the final few moves, to belay at a large, jammed block. Unprotected on the upper half. |
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| − | '''GO TELL THE MUJAHIDEEN''' 20m HS<br />''Gerry Galligan, Colm Peppard, 17/9/2017''<br />Takes the wall and crack 2m left of the second corner
| + | G.M. C. McG. 6/6/22 |
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| − | '''SEE THE YOUNG RUSSIANS, HIGH ON OUR GEAR''' 20m S 3c <br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 2/7/2017.''<br />Climb the second corner, crux is in the first few metres. Enjoyable.
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| − | '''DURAND LINE''' 20m HS 4b<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 20/5/2017.''<br />Takes the continuous crack in the smooth slab right of the second corner. The steep wall higher up forms the crux. A good companion piece to Bakhtar Radio.
| + | [[image:CLI5aa.jpeg]] |
| − |
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| − | '''THE SILK ROAD''' 20m HS 4b <br />''Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 17/9/2017''<br />2m right of Durand Line there is a wide crack formed by a flake at 8m
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| − | Climb a short corner at ground level to climb this, continue up a more
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| − | broken easy corner to finish.
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| − | '''BAKHTAR RADIO''' 20m HS 4b <br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 15/4/2017''<br />Halfway along the base of the wall there is a triangular block on the ground and a
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| − | recess opposite it. Climb the wall 1m to the left of this recess to join the crack
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| − | that continues to the top.
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| − | '''FLAMING JEZAIL''' 20m VS 4c<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 2/7/2017.''<br />4m right of '''BAKHTAR RADIO''' climb the crack and corner to a grassy ledge at half hright,
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| − | take the easier cracked left wall to more broken ground and the top.
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| − | The crux is in the first few metres and is well protected.
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| − | '''KHYBER CRACK''' 15m S <br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 15/4/2017''<br />25m further on/South from '''BAKHTAR RADIO''' there is a broken crack before the descent.
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| − | Follow this pleasant well protected line to a ledge, up crack on the left to finish.
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| − | [[File:Afghan_walls_3.jpg|alt=|frameless|600x600px]] | + | [[image:CLI6aa.jpeg]] |
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| − | '''KANDAHAR''' 20m S <br />''Peter Wood, Stuart Kennedy, 15/4/2017.''<br />Start beneath a small niche. Climb to the niche, and continue upwards to the leftmost of two cracks above. Deviation for gear may be needed. | + | <br>7. '''Red Van Man.''' HS 4b.<br>''J. Reville, J. Byrne, G. Moss 27/7/12.''<br>Start as for 6. Step out right and climb the crack just R of the overhang, moving back left beneath the small overhang higher up the face. <br><br>8. '''The Pirate Queen.''' HS 4b.<br>''G. Moss, J. Reville, J. Byrne 27/7/12.'' |
| | + | <br>Start as for 6 Hand traverse horizontally R along a thin crack and step up to a good ledge. Climb the thin crack above the right hand end of the ledge, finishing over jammed blocks. |
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| − | '''THE FALL OF KABUL''' HS 4b
| + | ===Choc-a-Block Wall=== |
| | + | [[image:CLI7aa.jpeg]] |
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| − | ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 3/9/2021''
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| − | Start at the obvious crack below and right of '''KANDAHAR''', climb this to a grassy ledge and follow the leftward trending line to finish as for '''KANDAHAR'''.
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| − | '''INSURGENCY CRACK''' 20m VS 4c<br />''Stuart Kennedy, Peter Wood, 15/4/2017''<br />Follow the deep dog-legged crack to the left of MOAB.
| + | [[image:CLI9a.jpeg]] |
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| − | '''MOAB''' 20m HS 4b<br />''Peter Wood, Stuart Kennedy, 15/4/2017''<br />Start just to the right of Insurgency crack. Climb to the small ledge, and continue via the crack and small pinnacle to the top
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| − | '''NORTHERN ALLIANCE''' 20m VS 5a <br />''Stuart Kennedy, Peter Wood, 15/4/2017''<br />Start up the steep crack to the right of the arete following it trending right to the top. | + | ''The following 7 climbs are on the next face to the E and are accessed by scrambling down through a gap in the clifftop about 30 m E of the fence and moving L (facing out) to reach a good ledge system well above the highwater mark. The buttress is characterised by several blocky overhangs.'' |
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| − | The Afghanistan escarpment extends to the right, beyond a broken field wall running perpendicular to the escarpment and directly towards the sea. Otherwise, closer to the Khyber Pass. To date, two routes have been recorded here.
| + | 9. '''No Brakes.''' Diff.<br>''J. Byrne, J. Reville, G. Moss 26/7/12.'' |
| − | [[File:WC.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]
| + | <br>This climb follows a line just left of the line of overhangs, to finish up via a notch in the skyline near the left edge of the face.<br><br>10. '''Carl's Magic Mackerel.''' M Severe.<br>''J. Reville, J. Byrne, G. Moss 26/7/12.''<br>Start just right of 7. Climb up through a gap in the overhang to gain, and follow, the crack in the upper face, 2m right of 7.<br><br>11. '''Gráinneuaile.''' Severe.<br>''G. Moss, J. Byrne, J. Reville 26/7/12.''<br>Start 3m right of 8, below a short, left facing corner capped by a blocky overhang. Climb the corner to the overhang, surmount this on good holds and continue straight up.<br><br>12. '''Two Car Family.''' Diff.<br>''G. Moss, J. Byrne, J. Reville 26/7/12.''<br>Start 3m right of 9, below a short right facing corner capped by an overhang. Climb up just right of the overhang and step left to a good ledge. Move a little left and finish up just left of a projecting block.<br><br>13.''' Go Explore.''' V. Diff.<br>''J. Reville, J. Byrne, G. Moss 26/7/12.''<br>Start 2m right of 10, below a line of sharp projecting blocks. Climb straight up over the blocks to the top.<br><br>14. '''Sucking Diesel.''' V.Diff.<br>''J. Byrne, J. Reville, G. Moss 26/7/12.''<br>Start 2m right of 11, below a wide crack 2m in from the right edge of the face. Climb straight up through the crack to the top.<br><br>15.''' Vantastic.''' V. Diff.<br>''G. Moss, J. Byrne, J. Reville 26/7/12.''<br>This climb follows the right edge of the face. |
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| − | | + | <br /> |
| − | '''WAKHAN CORRIDOR''' HS<br />''Gerry Galligan, Stuart Kennedy, 12/5/2019.''<br />Above a niche is a groove leading to a left-facing corner. Continue up, trending right, following a disjointed crack-line. Check loose holds.
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| − | '''RUSSIAN ROULETTE''' E1 5a<br />''Stuart Kennedy, Gerry Galligan, 12/5/2019.''<br />Halfway along the escarpment, adjacent to a wide, left-facing chimney, is a crack line. Follow this crack to a stance below a bulging wall. Continue to the top. Sustained, with good protection.
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| − | [[File:PBF.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]
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| − | '''PASHTUN BLOOD FEUD''' HS 4b
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| − | | |
| − | ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 4/9/2021''
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| − | | |
| − | 20m right of '''RUSSIAN ROULETTE''' there is an alcove, climb the right hand groove in the alcove.
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| − | | |
| − | ==Upper Tier==
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| − | Contrary to the information in previous guidebooks the climbs in this area are worthwhile, are on good rock and have excellent protection, the view is fab and it can be a sanctuary from midge. These climbs are adjacent to a large open air water tank/trough.
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| − | [[File:1290px-Upper tier left.jpg|thumb|600x600px|alt=|none]]
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| − | | |
| − | '''WHERE'S THE LIFEGUARD?''' S
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| − | | |
| − | ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 3/9/2021''
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| − | | |
| − | Start 2m left of '''TWO TRICK PONY''', climb the slab diagonally rightwards to gain the grassy ledge as for '''TTP''', traverse left for 3m and climb the short wide crack to another ledge, finish up the slabby rib above.
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| − | | |
| − | '''TWO TRICK PONY''' HS 4b<br />''David Brosnan, Barry Watts, 21/4/2018''<br />Climb a left facing corner and slab 5m left of '''MET EIREANN''' to the grassy ledge, finish
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| − | steeply up the hand crack with the help of good holds on the right hand side.
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| − | | |
| − | '''STORMY DANIELS''' S<br />''Barry Watts, Clement Saas, 5/5/2018''<br />Climb the slab and thin crack right 3m left of '''MET EIREANN''' to the grassy ledge.
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| − | Finish up the wide crack.
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| − | | |
| − | '''STORM STRUCK''' VD <br />''Barry Watts, Clement Saas, 6/5/2018''<br />Climb as for '''MET EIREANN''' to the grassy ledge. Continue up the pleasant corner crack 2m to the left.
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| − |
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| − | '''MET EIREANN''' VD<br />''Barry Watts, David Brosnan, 21/4/2018''<br />Start 5m left of the obvious chimney, climb a grassy crack (solo'd by Eve the dog soon after FA) to a ledge
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| − | and continue up crack and slab, trend left for the final few m's as the head wall has some nice incut holds.
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| − | | |
| − | '''HERE COMES SUMMER''' * VD<br />''G. Moss, D. Doyle, 19/8/1985''<br />Start 2m left of the obvious chimney. Climb thin crack to grassy ledge, then the left-hand crack in the wall above, trending left to overhang.
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| − | | |
| − | Variation finish; '''THIS AIN'T SUMMER''' S<br />''Clement Saas, Barry Watts, 6/5/2018''<br />From the highest ledge at 2/3 height trend diagonally rightwards to the top.
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| − | | |
| − | '''LÁ na SCOLLAIB''' * S<br />''G. Moss, 18/8/1985''<br />Climb the chimney
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| − | | |
| − | [[File:Uppertiercentral.jpg|600px|File:Uppertiercentral.jpg]]
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| − | | |
| − | '''RAINBOW WARRIOR **''' HS<br />''D. Doyle, V. Kelly, 18/8/1985''<br />3m right of the chimney. Climb the crack, starting at a leaning block.
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| − | | |
| − | '''LÁ na GAOITHE''' VD<br />''V. Kelly, G. Moss 18/8/1985''<br />Start 3m right of Rainbow Warrior, at the foot of a thin crack just right of the south-facing corner. Traverse in left, then climb corner.
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| − | | |
| − | '''CORA''' ** 20m S<br />''Barry Watts, Ian McLoughlin, 17/9/2017''<br />Start 2m right of '''LÁ na GAOITHE''' at a wide crack slanting to the right. Traverse across to attain the central cracks in the smooth wall to the top.
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| − | | |
| − | '''WET EIREANN''' 20m S<br />''Barry Watts, David Brosnan, 21/4/2018''<br />Start 3m right of '''CORA''', climb a thin crack to the grassy ledge in a bay, continue up the left hand corner crack over a slight bulge, follow the block filled crack line rightwards to the top.
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| − | | |
| − | '''SCATTERED OUTBREAKS OF SUNSHINE''' 15m HS<br />''Colm Peppard, Gerry Galligan, 17/9/2017''<br />Takes the steep clean right angle corner 12m right of Cora where there is a deep inset arm sized crack which provides great protection.
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| − | | |
| − | '''RUSTY'S RAMP''' S<br />''Barry Watts, Clement Saas, 5/5/2018''<br />5m right of '''SCATTERED OUTBREAKS OF SUNSHINE''', the wide grassy ledge begins again.
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| − | Climb a left facing cracked arete to gain this ledge, continue up the right trending crack and ramp
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| − | to a rocky ledge then trend left to the top.
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| − | | |
| − | '''SHAMROCK VIBES''' S<br />''Barry Watts, Clement Saas, 5/5/2018''<br />Climb the cracked recess 3m right of '''RUSTY'S RAMP''' to a grassy ledge, the grass cranking
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| − | requires great commitment. Climb the right hand side of the recess to a rocky ledge then trend left to the top.
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| − | | |
| − | '''ALLEZ STRASBOURG''' HVS 5a<br />''Clement Saas, Barry Watts, 5/5/2018''<br />10m right of '''SHAMROCK VIBES''' climb a thin shallow crack to the grassy ledge.
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| − | Continue up strenuous thin crack in the wall above.
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Getting to the Island There are two ferry companies serving the island. See Clareislandferry.com & Clareislandfastferries.com for details of sailings and fares.
Accommodation. You have a choice. Less than five minutes walk from the landing pier, and directly above the blue flag beach, is the island's only campsite. Small and basic, campers have the use of the community centre's toilets, wash-hand basins and coin-operated showers, located just 50m from the campsite. There is also a hotel, Go Explore, plus several B&B's and apartments to rent.
Getting around the island. You can walk, hire a bike (or bring your own) or, if there is a group, hire the island's only minibus. The nearest crag to the harbour is 5k away, not a huge distance, but time consuming if walking.
Note. All of the following crags are on land belonging to the owners of Cois Abhainn, a B&B located at the very end of the road leading W from the harbour. Seek permission from them before entering on the lands. Then return back down the road to a gate (The Gate) on the seaward side of the road, at a dip in the road and a stream, about 50 m below the cattle grid.
The climbing areas are described from East to West, the routes described from L to R facing the rock.
Scardóg L673-841
From The Gate, while keeping the fence on your right, follow it down and left for about 300m. Cross the fence at this point and go down over rock until Scardóg, a clean, black, NW facing 20m slab, comes into view. Scramble down to the bottom of either side of the slab. The climbs are described L to R facing the rock.
The first 3 climbs start from the bottom L of the slab, the remaining 3 from the bottom R.
The Thrift. V. Diff. D. Walsh, Andrea Spinu, Tim Nairn
Left of the main slab is a narrower slab, with a left facing corner with a crack on its right, and another crack 2m to its left.
Start. From the same stance as for Car Rose, Climb between the two cracks.
Car Rose HS. P. O’Brien, G.Moss 3.6.2022
From a stance, at the bottom L of the slab move up R and climb the steep left facing blocky corner that borders the left edge of the slab.
Black Magic S. G.M., P.O’B. 23/6/22.
Start at the bottom L of the slab. Travers delicately and diagonally R for 5m to reach a crack. Climb this to the top.
The next 3 climbs start from a ledge at the bottom R of the slab
The Squeezed Middle V. Diff. G.M. D.W., P.O’B 23/6/22
Start at the bottom R of the slab. Traverse horizontally L crossing the lines of First Crack and Any Crack? to reach a continuous crack near the centre of the slab.. Follow this to the top.
Any crack? V. Diff. DW P.O’ B., G.M 3.6.2022
Start as for First Crack Traverse 3m left, and climb the bottom to top crack on left of quartzite markings.
First Crack. V. Diff. P. O’B, G.M 3.6.2022.
Step left around the corner on the extreme right of the slab and climb the bottom to top crack immediately above.
There is scope for more routes immediately W of the sl
Craigmore Area
Approach Go through the gate and, keeping to the left of the fence, follow it down, passing a junction with another fence . Cross the fence and continue east for a short distance, until it is possible to scramble down to sea level. There is much yet to be done here. The first route follows a dark, narrow, undercut slab just above the high water mark.
14. Van Diesel. HS 4b. Climbed in two pitches to avoid rope drag.
J. Reville J. Byrne G. Moss 25/7/12.
1. Gain the slab from the L and climb it to a broad platform.
2. Move back to the juggy corner behind and climb it.
15. Three Point Turns. Severe.
J. Byrne, J. Reville, G. Moss 25/7/12.
This climb is found at the foot of a series of corners around to the E of 14. Start at the foot of a biscuit-coloured corner just left of a dark overhang. Climb the corner to a good ledge and continue up to finish through a break in the skyline.
Toormore
Approach.
From The Gate, follow the fence down to a junction with another fence on the R. Cross here and follow this fence to a junction with another fence running down from the road. Cross here and go down over grass to the cliff top to a point above the prominent arch - Arch Buttress. The following areas are described in relation to the arch.
Kernan's Corner Wall; Arch Buttress Wall W; Arch Buttress; Arch Buttress Wall E; Choc-a-bloc Wall.
A minus = Kernan's Korner Wall, A = Arch Buttress, B = Arch Buttress Wall, C = Choc-a-Block Wall.
[[File:
]]
Kernan's Korner Wall
50m west of Arch Buttress (and across another fence!) is a 20m wide Wall with a platform 3m above above high tide mark.
1. The Scholar-Gypsy Diff. 15m
P. Herbert, H. Olsson 06/07/14
From east end of platform, follow continuous crack in groove to the top.,
2. Roddy's Arête Diff. 18m
P .Herbert, H. Olsson 06/07/14
Start as for The Scholar-Gypsy and at 10m step out right on good hand and foot placements to small ledge on arête, continue up the arête or step right onto face to finish.
Scope for more routes on this wall.
Arch Wall West L665-842
Immediately W of the Arch, between it and a fence, lies a smooth wall, only the E side of which is developed because of birds nesting to the W. Climbs are described L to R, and all start on a high-water platform reached by abseil.
1 Avian Anger VS4b 15m P. O’Brien, D. Walsh 6.6.2022
Start as for route 2, moving with difficulty up and L until a horizontal weakness yields holds, protection, and nice climbing all the way to the top.
2. Seaga Ciúin. V. Diff 15m D. Walsh, P. O’Brien 6.6.2022
Climb the bottom to top crack up the right side of the wall, up and slightly rightwards. Best moves at the top. Lovely.
3 Corner Boy V. Diff 12m D. Walsh, P. O’Brien 6.6.2022
Separated from the smooth wall by a ramp is a stepped square shaped corner that provides one nice move right at the top.
Arch Buttress
GR 665 842. These routes are on the buttress with the prominent arch, almost directly below the end of the fence. Access is gained by scrambling halfway down the sloping ramp which starts a few m. E of the fence, stepping across the narrow channel (easier at low tide), and scrambling up and back right to reach the foot of the seaward face.
1 Arch Rivals. Diff. G. Moss, C. McGovern. 4/6/22
The L edge of the face.
2. Arch Central, 15m VD, P O'Brien, A Spinu, T Nairn. 4-6-22
Start at the base centre of the face and climb up the middle of the wall to the top.
3. Arch Arete. V. Diff. G.Moss, J.Byrne., J.Reville. 26/7/12.
The R arete of the face of the buttress.
Arch Buttress Wall.
The next five routes are on the wall to the east of Arch Buttress and are reached by scrambling down the sloping ramp mentioned above. The climbs are described from left to right
2. Generous John. V. Diff.
J. Reville, J. Byrne, G. Moss 26/7/12.
The left-hand and narrower of two cracks near the bottom of the sloping ramp.
3. PeuJoe V. Diff.
J. Byrne, J. Reville, G. Moss 26/7/12.
The righthand and deeper of the two cracks near the bottom of the ramp.
4. Pulpits V. Diff.
D. Walsh, C. Duffy 4.6.2022
Start as for PeuJoe and climb the shallow groove directly above, passing the large overhang on the right. The protection gets sparse with height but the holds keep coming.
5. Ripple Arete. Severe B. Walker, W. Blanchfield. . 4.6.2022
Climb the rib immediately on the right of Pulpits. Crux at top.
The next 4 routes are reached by scrambling down to the bottom of the ramp and stepping across a gap to reach a ledge at the foot of a prominent left facing corner.
5. First Gear All The Way. V.Diff.
J. Byrne, J. Reville, G. Moss 27/7/12.
Climb the continuous crack L of the corner.
6. The Way That I went. S.(see photo)
Start. As for First Gear All The Way. Move up R and follow a line just L of the arête, stepping R onto the arête for the final few moves, to belay at a large, jammed block. Unprotected on the upper half.
G.M. C. McG. 6/6/22
7. Red Van Man. HS 4b.
J. Reville, J. Byrne, G. Moss 27/7/12.
Start as for 6. Step out right and climb the crack just R of the overhang, moving back left beneath the small overhang higher up the face.
8. The Pirate Queen. HS 4b.
G. Moss, J. Reville, J. Byrne 27/7/12.
Start as for 6 Hand traverse horizontally R along a thin crack and step up to a good ledge. Climb the thin crack above the right hand end of the ledge, finishing over jammed blocks.
Choc-a-Block Wall
The following 7 climbs are on the next face to the E and are accessed by scrambling down through a gap in the clifftop about 30 m E of the fence and moving L (facing out) to reach a good ledge system well above the highwater mark. The buttress is characterised by several blocky overhangs.
9. No Brakes. Diff.
J. Byrne, J. Reville, G. Moss 26/7/12.
This climb follows a line just left of the line of overhangs, to finish up via a notch in the skyline near the left edge of the face.
10. Carl's Magic Mackerel. M Severe.
J. Reville, J. Byrne, G. Moss 26/7/12.
Start just right of 7. Climb up through a gap in the overhang to gain, and follow, the crack in the upper face, 2m right of 7.
11. Gráinneuaile. Severe.
G. Moss, J. Byrne, J. Reville 26/7/12.
Start 3m right of 8, below a short, left facing corner capped by a blocky overhang. Climb the corner to the overhang, surmount this on good holds and continue straight up.
12. Two Car Family. Diff.
G. Moss, J. Byrne, J. Reville 26/7/12.
Start 3m right of 9, below a short right facing corner capped by an overhang. Climb up just right of the overhang and step left to a good ledge. Move a little left and finish up just left of a projecting block.
13. Go Explore. V. Diff.
J. Reville, J. Byrne, G. Moss 26/7/12.
Start 2m right of 10, below a line of sharp projecting blocks. Climb straight up over the blocks to the top.
14. Sucking Diesel. V.Diff.
J. Byrne, J. Reville, G. Moss 26/7/12.
Start 2m right of 11, below a wide crack 2m in from the right edge of the face. Climb straight up through the crack to the top.
15. Vantastic. V. Diff.
G. Moss, J. Byrne, J. Reville 26/7/12.
This climb follows the right edge of the face.
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