Difference between pages "Iorras - Gleann Lára" and "Aill na Cronain"

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This page is a work in progress
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====Introduction====
  
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Leithinis an Mhuirthead (the Mullet Peninsula)—also known as an Mhuirthead ( the Mullet) —is a peninsula in the barony of Iorras (Erris) in the Gaelteacht in County Mayo.  It consists of a large promontory connected to the mainland at Béal an Mhuirthead (Belmullet) by a narrow isthmus. At its northern end is the townland of Gleann Lára and all the climbs listed here are in that townland as is Ceann Iorras (Erris Head).
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This crag lies about 400m north of Ailwee Cave and is clearly visible from the upper car park. A 10 minute level walk brings one to the top of the cliff and the descent gully can be located by continuing towards the north end. The Small Wall area is halfway across from the car-park.
  
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Starting from American Street in Béal an Mhuirhead continue north straight on L1201 for 3km and then turn left onto a minor road just after a sharp right bend. After another 1.6km turn right at a T-junction. At the next T-junction at the top of a small hill after 1200m make a V turn left. Follow this road to where it ends at parking at Gleann Lara on the shore of An Siolar (Danish Cellar).
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Once down the descent gully it is worth moving about 50m out from the crag from where the skull shape of Skull Buttress becomes obvious. The routes in this area are self-evident from their names, with Skull Slab the right cheek. The East Side is north of the descent. To the north of the Skull Slab and the East Side areas the rock continues for another couple of hundred metres, the Far East Crag details the climbs on that section of rock. The crag ends with some large boulders suitable for bouldering.
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[[File:Gleann_Lara_access.png|alt=|center|frameless|800x800px]]
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<br />
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==Access==
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Peregrines are known to nest here, so best to avoid from the beginning of April to the end of August. Nests with eggs have been seen here in 2016 and 2017.
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==<span style="font-size: large">Aill na Crónain Topo ==
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[[File:Aill Na Cronain topo.png|RTENOTITLE]]''Aill Na Cronain''
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==<span style="font-size: x-large">Far East side==
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[[File:far left wall.jpg|800px]]
  
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===='''Danish Cellar'''====
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'''MAGIC CARPET RIDE''' VS 5a<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 4/10/2015.''<br />The first obvious crack line on the left edge of the buttress. The crux is getting off the magic carpet ledge and into the upper crack.
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'''The routes described below are located on big slabs just east of the car park at Danish Cellar (OS .5 sheet 6, F 708 395) near Erris Head in the Belmullet Peninsula, North Mayo. There is great potential for quality new routes in the area.'''
 
  
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'''There are three principal areas of slabs (see Figure 3. New Climbs '82), all west-facing and located on ill-defined headlands. The top of the first area of slabs is visible from the car park at Danish Cellar and is characterised by the presence of green lichen and a vertical to overhanging headwall. They are reached by crossing a small steep-sided valley and stream adjacent to the car park. The second area of slabs is only a short distance further east and is characterised by large areas of featureless black rock. The third area of slabs is further east again (about 15 minutes walk from the car park). On the right there is a large black slab characterised by white speckles. Left of this the slabs are more complex with cracks and overhangs, but a long leftward-trending crack is characteristic.'''
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'''ALADDIN’S BIG TRIP''' HS<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 30/4/2016.<br />''Takes the slab and cracks 2m right of magic carpet ride, crux is gaining the first grassy ledge, side runners can be placed in the magic carpet ride crack to protect the start.
  
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'''The only belays possible on top are wooden or metal stakes, which can easily be driven into the soft bog. The slabs are composed of psammite, a metamorphosed sandstone, and provide extremely unusual climbing in a magnificent situation.'''
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'''ALADDIN'S CRACK AND WALL&nbsp;'''16m HS 4c<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 4/6/2016.''<br />Takes the wide crack and steep wall 4m right of ''Magic Carpet Ride.''The steep final wall can be protected by placing gear in the crack on the left.
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[[File:Danish_cellar.png|link=http://wiki.climbing.ie/File:Danish_cellar.png|alt=|center|441x441px]]
 
  
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'''ALADDIN’S RAMP''' S<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 2/5/2016.<br />''Start at the bottom right hand side of the detached buttress-pinnacle. Move up the short cleaned arête and the longer corner to arrive on the broad ledge, finish up the steep shallow right facing corner on the left to exit as for Butcher’s Block.
  
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'''FREAGHILLAUN''' 43m HVS 4c
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'''BUTCHER’S BLOCK''' HS 4a<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 4/10/2015.''<br />A nice line spoilt by a pile of ominous looking overhanging blocks on the right wall. Climb the leftward trending ramp left of the striking arête,take care of the blocks on your right. At the ledge move left for 3m&nbsp;climb the right facing corner.
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<br>''T. Ryan, S. MacGerailt, P. Breen. 10/9/1989''
 
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<br>The centre of the crag is split by an obvious dirty groove, usually seeping. This route takes the broad slab left of the groove and finishes up an obvious crack in the steep headwall. A band of overhangs traverses across the bottom half of the slabs. Belay on a small ledge below the dirty groove at the left-hand side of the widest part of the overhangs.
 
  
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'''HELLSFIRE''' 43m E1 5a
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'''PERIGEE CORNER''' S<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 30/4/2016.<br />''Climb the wide crack corner finishing steeply over the jammed ‘wrecking ball block’.<br />This corner may feel open and exposed or a well protected classic, depending on mood.
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<br>''T. Ryan, S. MacGerailt, P. Breen. 10/9/1989''
 
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<br>This route starts as for Freaghillaun and takes the slab between the dirty groove and Pathfinder. Start at the base of the dirty groove at the left edge of the widest part of the overhang. Move right across the slab above the wide overhang to a ledge at the base of a vegetated groove. Continue up rightwards on steepening lichenous rock to a vague diagonal crack, hidden in the lichen and climb directly up the overhanging wall above on increasingly large holds to finish at a cleaned ledge at the top. Excellent exhilarating climbing.
 
  
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'''PATHFINDER''' 43m HVS
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'''The Scenic Variation''' VD<br />''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan  27/9/2015.<br />''Climbs the wide crack in the corner for 4m and traverse left along a ramp to finish directly up the wall.
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<br>''T. Ryan, O. Jacob. 1/12/1982''
 
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<br>The green lichenous slabs visible from the car park are best viewed from a small promontory just opposite the slab. They are bordered on the right side by a prominent arête and a band of stepwise overhangs crosses the slab from right to left. This route takes the broad slab left of the groove and finishes up an obvious crack in the steep headwall. A band of overhangs traverses across the bottom half of the slabs. Belay on a small ledge below the dirty groove at the left-hand side of the widest part of the overhangs. Pathfinder takes the slab on the right of the dirty groove.Move up left over the overhang. Continue leftwards, up the lichenous slab to reach the crack near the top. Climb steeply up this. Poor protection. Stake belay.
 
  
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'''CLEO''' 43m HVS 4c
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'''BRIAN BORU WALL''' HS<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 30/4/2016.''<br />Start 3m right of Perigee corner, follow the twin cracks steeply to a ledge&nbsp;and continue up the next set of twin cracks to the top.
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<br>''T. Ryan, E. Hernstadt, S. Gallwey. 6/3/1983<nowiki><br></nowiki>''
 
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This route takes a thin crack in the slab just left of the arête, about 7m. right of Pathfinder. Towards the top it climbs the vertical headwall just right of the final groove of Pathfinder. Abseil down and belay on a small ledge below the overlap and 1m. left of the arête. Climb up to the overlap and gain the slab above. Ascend the thin crack until it runs out and up right to a small ledge just left of the arête and below a small overlap. Step up and follow holds left until it is possible to move back right to a deep diagonal crack below the steeper headwall. Hand-traverse left to below a short thin black crack. Climb steeply past the crack and trend up left (avoiding easy ground on the left) to quartz veins. Continue up steeply, trending left, to the top of the groove of Pathfinder. The top of this route offers very strenuous and spectacular, if somewhat contrived, climbing. Small friends and tricams necessary to protect the top section of the route.
 
  
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'''SEA QUEEN''' 43m VS 4b
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'''CIMA DELLA QUEVA''' 18m VS 5a<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 8/10/2016.<br />''Bouldery bridging and crack jamming at the start, climb the overhanging short corner 4m right of Brain Buru Wall to a ledge, finish up the right trencing crack/flake.
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<br>''T. Ryan, S. MacGearailt, P. Breen. 10/9/1989''
 
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<br>Takes the obvious arête bordering the right-hand side of the crag. Start as for Cleo on a ledge below the overhang at the bottom of the arête. Avoid the overhang by first moving right and then left above it. Climb pleasantly up the left side of the arête to a small ledge below a small overlap (shared with Cleo). Step right onto the arête and up this to a ledge with suspect rock below an overhanging groove. Climb the groove on large holds to the top. (Very little protection on the arête).
 
  
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'''''The next route is on the third area of slabs'''''
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'''SPELEO HIGHWAY''' HS<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 30/4/2016.<br />''Start at the steep arête left and downhill of the large chimney cave. &nbsp;Climb&nbsp;steeply up the arete and short wall to reach a grassy ledge. Finish up the crack which&nbsp;trends leftwards and upwards out of the overhanging cave.
  
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'''SKYLARK''' 76m HS 3c
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'''EXIT PURSUED BY A BEAR''' 20m HS 4a<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 8/10/2016.<br />''Climbs directly up the face of the cave right of Speleo Highway.
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<nowiki><br></nowiki>''O. Jacob, S. Gallwey. 27/3/1982<nowiki><br></nowiki>''
 
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This route takes the obvious left-trending diagonal crack on the third area of slabs east of Danish Cellar. Abseil down to a palatial ledge just below an overhang (wooden stake in place; it may be rotten). The climb provides magnificent situations and exposure for the grade. 1. 43m. . Traverse leftwards around the overhang and then up and right to the crack. Follow this to a belay. 2. 43m. Follow the crack and jugs almost to the top. Avoid the grassy finish by traversing left to huge holds on an arête. Stake belay in place.
 
  
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===='''An Uaich Bhuí - Aill Thuaidh'''====
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'''CRON'S CAVE''' Grade a clambering<br />''First Ascent A man followed by a bear<br />First Recorded Ascent Conor Warner, November 2015.''<br />Clamber with care into the Cave and exit easily through the roof opening.  
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Access is 20 minutes or so westwards on foot across fields and open land from the roadhead on the shore of An Siolar (Danish Cellar).
 
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[[File:Aill thuaidh layout.jpg|center|thumb|626x626px]]
 
  
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'''WHITE KNIGHT''' VS 4c<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 4/10/2015.<br />''A steep gymnastic line with good protection and holds where it matters. Start on a blunt arête of rock. 3m left of Cath Deirgne, climb over ledges until just below the overhanging Knight block which is left of the ivy curtain. Surmount this block directly, and finish up the groove.
  
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This is a west facing sea cliff about 40m high divided by two enormous vertical fault-lines or chasms into three distinct buttresses – Left, Middle (currently by far the most developed) and Right. A ramp divides all three buttresses into upper and lower tiers. The ramp runs from top left of the North Buttress F695-408 gradually downwards to about mid height where it reaches the Middle Buttress, remains horizontal across the Middle Buttress F695-407, and then rises gradually upwards to top right of the South Buttress F495-406. It is not possible to get from the Middle to the right buttress at ramp level.
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'''REGGAELATION''' 20m S 4a<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 8/10/2016.<br />''Climb the long corner groove right of White Knight, the last 5m are the crux.
  
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Access to the climbing is by the Ramp, from the north end for the North Buttress and Middle Buttress, from the south for the South Buttress. The Middle Buttress is accessible with a little care, but only from the left or northern end.  The Ramp is utterly impassable as between the Middle Buttress and the South Buttress.  Abseiling is also relevant where some may prefer to leave a fixed abseil in position to facilitate (for instance) multiple parties accessing multiple climbs on the upper Middle Buttress, in preference to the walk around.  The one and only climb (at time of writing) on the Middle Lower Buttress below the Ramp is accessible only by abseil from the Ramp, and the same for the sole route below the Ramp on the South Buttress.
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'''COROFIN TRAMP VARIATION''' VS 5a<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 8/10/2016.<br />''Takes the steep wall and crack 2m right of the Reggaelation finish.
  
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Base Camp is a matter of choice, but the Ramp on North Buttress, just where the other Buttresses come into view, has become popular.
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'''CATH DEIRGNE''' 16m HS<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 27/9/2015.''<br />Start 2m left of Farranshone and follow the steep crack that is formed by the left hand side of the pillar mentioned above, step right to finish at the overhanging headwall.
  
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Climbing on the North Buttress is accessed easily by scrambling steeply down a lower ramp from top left, starting at much the same position as the Ramp itself.
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'''CATH DEIRGNE DIRECT''' VS 5a<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 4/10/2015.''<br />Finish up the overhanging wall.
  
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All directions are given as though looking at the rock from seaward.
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'''FARRANSHONE''' * 16m S <br />''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 27/9/2015.''<br />A fine route on good rock, it starts just left of the ash tree and takes the obvious continuous arête and pillar. Climb the wide&nbsp;crack (harder than it looks) to reach a ledge and continue up the pillar.
  
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'''The South Buttress'''
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'''COROLLA GROOVE&nbsp; '''HS<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 2/5/2016.<br />''This route ascends the cracked groove, left of Corolla Crusaders. Start as for Corolla Crusaders to the grassy terrace. Move up the same arete for 2m before traversing delicately left into the groove (crux) to&nbsp;finish directly&nbsp;up the wall.
  
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The South Buttress has just three climbs as of September 2021, two recent easy west facing routes above the Ramp and a much earlier in time south facing E4 below it. The west facing climbing area above the Ramp is not particularly well supplied with readily identifiable features, but there are three discernible left facing corners and the two grade Diff routes take the leftmost and rightmost of these.
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A variation exists to climb the overhang directly to gain the groove. Awaiting FA.
  
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'''Details are awaited.'''
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'''COROLLA CRUSADERS''' S<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 3/10/2015.''<br />Start 1m left of the tree, climb the wall to the grassy ledge. Continue up the textured wall on good holds just right of the arête.
  
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'''THE BEST WAVE IN MAYO''' E4 6a 15m
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[[File:righthand.jpg|800px]]
  
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''Mick Walsh, unseconded, 27/08/2011 (Practiced on toprope)''
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<br />
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[[File:DSC01801.jpg|none|thumb|786x786px|Restless natives]]
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'''RESTLESS NATIVES''' 16m S<br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, Gerry Galligan, 27/9/2015.''<br />Starts at the steep twin crack 2m right of the ash tree. Climb the crack, cross the ledge and finish up the wide crack in the slab above,&nbsp;medium to big gear essential.
  
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This route follows the continuous crack at the left end of the south facing section of this incredible cliff below the Ramp. Climb the line of the crack also using positive holds on the face. A big runout, a class route.
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'''PAMELA ANDERSON''' * HS <br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 3/10/2015.''<br />A fine companion piece to Restless Natives. Start right of Restless Natives to the grassy ledge. Continue directly over a delicate step via a narrow&nbsp;crack to a stance under the upper arête. Finish up the attractive-looking crack in the wall just left of this upper arête. She’s a star!
  
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'''The Middle Buttress'''
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'''ARTICLES&nbsp;OF WAR '''18m HVS 5a<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 4/6/2016.''<br />Start 2m left of ''The Lug Walk'' and just left of a hawthorne tree''.'' Boulder up the wall just left of the arêteto reach better holds and the wide grassy terrace. Continue up the next short wall by the right hand-side to reach a ledge. Step left and finish up the steep smooth headwall by the prominent crack (crux).&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;''&nbsp;''
  
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The Middle Buttress boasts ten climbs at this time, nine above and one below the Ramp. The climb (Claudine) below the Ramp takes the distinct crack line over by the right hand edge of the buttress, as follows.
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'''THE LUG WALK''' D<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 3/10/2015.''<br />Long and easy but with good climbing for the grade. Start at the wide stepped corner groove 10m right of the tree, follow the groove line to the upper sloping ramp. Ignore the wide off-width crack on your left. Instead, take the arête 2m to it’s right, climb the arête to finish.
  
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'''Claudine''' MS  22m **
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'''GLENMALURE LODGE FINISH''' HS<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 4/10/2015.''<br />Once in, it's&nbsp;tricky to get out of&nbsp;! Finish up the wide off-width crack.
  
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Takes the distinctive and direct crack at the right-hand end of the lower wall, to the Ramp.  Excellent protection throughout.
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'''WILDCAT GROWL '''25m S<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 4/6/2016.''<br />Follow the prominent arête just right of the start of ''The Lug Walk''.On reaching the large recess scramble up the front crag line to finish.&nbsp;'''&nbsp;'''
  
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G. Galligan, B. Walker. 30/08/2021
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'''SUPER MOON BLOW''' VS 4c<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 3/10/2015.''<br />Climb the steep groove (crux) 6m right of The Lug Walk to gain the terrace ramp. Move to the dark corner at the back of the ramp. Climb this corner to finish
  
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The upper section is complex.
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==East Side==
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'''CENTENARY CRACK '''10m VD<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 2/5/2016.''<br />Easy and enjoyable. Takes the left-trending crack line 1m left of Cleft.
  
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'''CLEFT''' 10m VD<br />''I. Graham, K. Price, 4/5/1971.''<br />Catapult-shaped corner, 30m left of the descent. Finish up left or direct over the jammed boulder.
  
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The Middle Buttress above the Ramp is divided vertically into two equal sections left and right of an eye catching black coloured classic layback corner (“the Black Corner”), and horizontally into about equal upper and lower sections by a faint horizontal fault line just above the level of the top of the Black Corner. The left section runs from the northern of the two chasms towards the Black Corner, the predominant features at lower level of which are an arched recess (the Arched Recess) and a slab between it and the Black Corner, each topped by a smooth triangular slab bounded on the right by steeper ground and then a shallow gully. The right section runs from the Black Corner all the way to the southern impassable chasm, in the upper level of which are two prominent bulges, the left one (the Left Bulge) with a shallow a chimney in the middle and the right one (the Right Bulge) having a deep crack penetrating a prominent square cut in the overhang.  Each bulge is above an associated diagonal crack rising from bottom left.
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'''BLOODLINE '''10m S<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 2/5/2016.''<br />Takes the crack line 3m right of Cleft to gain a niche. &nbsp;Veer right to avoid the overhang which is cappedwith ivy and a loose block.
  
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Route 1 – '''Céim suas''' Severe.  
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'''AILEEN's ARETE&nbsp;'''10m VD<br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 1/11/2015.''<br />20m left of the descent and 4m right of the hawthorn tree there is a 10m high smooth wall. Climb the left hand side of the smooth wall to the sentry box/gully, Finish up the juggy arête on the left.
  
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Start two metres left of Arched Recess.  Gain the overlap at its lowest point. Climb the slab above to a recess, follow this to the top.
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'''EAST SIDE STORY''' 10m HS<br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 1/11/2015.''<br />Takes the slim crack in the smooth wall 2m left of Fright
  
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B. Walker, W. Blanchfield 29.08.2021
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'''FRIGHT''' 10m S<br />''I. Rowe, K. Price, 14/8/1974.''<br />The left hand of the twin cracks in the wall just left of the descent
  
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Route 2 – '''Céim ar Chlé''' HS
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'''DE GAULLE''' 10m MS<br />''K. Price, I. Rowe, 14/8/1974.''<br />The arete just right&nbsp;of Fright. Awkward at the top.
  
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#Climb the crack in the right corner of the Arched Recess to its roof, and escape left onto the slab above. Follow the fault line directly to the terrace.
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==Skull Buttress==
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About 25m at its highest, the buttress looks remarkably like a skull when seen from a distance. Route names and descriptions refer to features of the skull.
  
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2. Climb the obvious thin crack to a short chimney and climb this to the top.
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[[File:Skull.jpg|600px|File:Skull.jpg]]
  
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B. Walker, W. Blanchfield (Alt. Leads) 28.08.2021 4b, 4a
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'''HOLLOW, MAN''' 15m HVS 5a<br />''H. Hennessy, J. Boyce, 24/9/2013.''<br />Start just left of "eustachian tube" in a short corner, climb this up to a short steep wall underneath a small left facing corner made up of hollow flakes. climb this to top.
  
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Route 3 - '''San Nicolas''' VS (4c, 4b)  30m  ***
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'''EUSTACHIAN TUBE''' 20m S<br />''P. Coakley, M. McCormack, 1982.''<br />Start just right of the descent on the extreme left of the buttress under an open-book corner at the top. Gain a large rounded ledge at 15m by a ridge weakness and climb the top corner on the right.
  
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1. Start just right of the Recessed Arch.  Massive thread belay to begin.  Climb the outside arête, which trends leftwards, making delicate moves to gain the wide ledge above.
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'''LOCKJAW''' 15m HVS 5a<br />''F Cox, C Warner, September 1999.''<br />Start 2m-3m right and down the hill from EUSTACAIN TUBE, there is a shallow groove leading up to a slab [directly below the finishing corner of DIAGONALS], climb this confidently to a large pocket [large cam] rockover delicately and so reach the ledge and finish up the corner.
  
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2. At a shallow niche, climb the crack which links to another foot-niche.  Then continue up the wall directly to the top, utilising the cracks en route.  
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'''CREST OF A WAVE''' 20m HVS 5a<br />''H. Hennessy, J. Boyce, 24/9/2013.''<br />Start just right of "lockjaw" at a thin curving crack, climb this to a good hold then move right along the lip of the overhang to meet "eureka" follow this to top.
  
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G. Galligan, D. Walsh. 29/08/2021
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'''MONKEY BUSINESS''' 20m E2 5c<br />''H.Hennessy, R. Sohel, 24/9/2013.''<br />A direct start to "crest of a wave" climb the center of the overhang passing three horizontal breaks, protection difficult to arrange.
  
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Route 4 - '''Santiago''' HS  4b 30m  **
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'''DIAGONALS''' 25m S<br />''K. Price, I. Graham, 12/12/71.''<br />Start at the foot of the tortuous ridge just left of the foot of the buttress. Climb the ridge which is the left edge of the smooth cracked slab by weaving past the obstacles, left and right. At 17m step left and climb the same corner as Eustachian Tube.
  
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Starts in the centre of the wall, 3m left of the Black Corner. Climb the thin cracks to gain the equivalent level of the wide ledge above. Avoiding the wide ledge, move up the short broken wall to gain the prominent triangular alcove.  Climb out of the alcove, taking the crack above to finish.
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'''EUREKA''' * 25m HS<br />''D. Walsh, P. Duggan, 30/4/83.''<br />Climbs the same ridge as Diagonals but directly. Finish straight (crux) up the headwall just right of the arête (right eye socket).
  
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G. Galligan, D. Walsh. 28/08/2021
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'''SKULL SLAB''' ** 25m VD<br />''K. Price, I. Graham, 4/9/71.''<br />This slab is the main feature of the buttress and is the true right cheek of the skull. Smooth, cracked and well protected. Start at the lowest point of the buttress and gain the lowest part of the slab at 4m diagonally left. Climb the slab and exit through the left eye socket above right.
  
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Route 5 – '''Black Corner''' VS 4c
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'''Variation''' finish 5b Step left via awkward and perplexing move onto the high slab on left and climb headwall above.
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'''Variation''' forehead finish 5a F Cox, B Watts, Jan 1999 High up on Skull slab and before you exit out the Left eye socket it is possible to go up the ‘forehead’, 2m left of the slab and marked by a sapling on the right there is a small blank corner, finish boldly up this and the wall above.
  
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Climb the corner, exiting right at top, then move up and left to good belay ledges and continue to top.
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'''SKULL'S NOSE''' 25m S<br />''M. McCormack, P. Coakley, 1982.''<br />Start at the lowest point of the buttress. The nose is the arête on the right of Skull Slab. Gain the arête from below right. Exit just left of the top of Skull Slab by a break in the headwall.<br />'''DIRECT START''' 4b ''M. Keogh, H Hennessy, 24/9/2013.'' Start directly below the arete underneath an overhang, climb up the right facing corner and out through the roof to meet skull's nose.  
  
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Paddy O’Brien, Christina Tan 17.07 2021
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'''LEFT CHEEK''' 25m S<br />''K. Price, I. Graham, 1/1/72.''<br />Start just right of the lowest point of the buttress. Follow broken, easy rock on the right of the nose and gain Skull Slab just below its exit at the top.
  
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Route 6 – '''Amach Arais''' Severe.
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'''RAVEN''' ** 20m E3 6a<br />''P Owens, D Brosnan, May 2007.''<br />Start just left of boulder and underneath the overhanging prow. Climb easy ground to gain a groove. Go up this for a few metres to where an overhanging break goes out right. Arrange wires here and traverse out right with increasing difficulty. Reach out right to grasp jug on the nose of the overhang and swing out to slab for a breather. Continue easily up the arête to the top.
  
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Start immediately right of Black Corner directly below the obvious overhung chimney in the Left Bulge high above. Climb directly to the chimney and through this on good jugs.
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[[File:TheSmirk.JPG|600px|TheSmirk.JPG]]
  
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B. Walker, G. Galligan 30.08.2021.
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'''THE SMIRK''' 22m & 18m S<br />''C and A Warner, 6/6/13.''<br />A two pitch enjoyable atmospheric traverse from right to left across ‘Skull Buttress’.<br />1. Start as for 'Left Cheek' and climb the enjoyable corner above to ‘Skull’s Nose’. Traverse across ‘Skull Slab’ to the corner half way up ‘Diagonals’. Belay here.<br />2. Follow ‘Diagonals’ left around the arête and up to a series of good ledges. Hand traverse left across ‘Eustachian Tube’ to easy ground.
  
−
Route 7 - '''Indíreach'''. V. Diff.
+
[[file:Aill Na Cronain Sunbane & Mayday.jpg|600px|Aill Na Cronain Sunbane & Mayday.jpg]]
  
−
Start in short double corner (with dinky thread belay) 5m right of Black Corner, then jink right and left up cracks to finish up on the right side of the Left Bulge.
+
'''SUNBANE''' * 20m E1 5c<br />''T. Ryan, 30/4/83.''<br />This is the deep V-groove with an overhang at one-third height on the right side of the buttress.
  
−
David Walsh, Gerry Galligan 28.08 2021
+
'''MAYDAY''' ** 20m VS<br />''D. Walsh, P. Duggan, 30/4/83.''<br />The right-slanting crackline right of Sunbane. Start as for Sunbane. Escape right at 2m with difficulty onto a short slab. Bridge over the overhang and step left. The strenuous crack above is the crux.
  
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Route 8 - '''Díreach'''. Mild Severe.
+
'''SKULL'S EAR''' 20m D<br />''D. Rowe, I. Rowe, 1972.''<br />The rib on the extreme right of the buttress.
  
−
Ascend middle of slab right of short double corner, directly under prominent square cut breach in the Right Bulge above, to gain a ledge with a massive spike belay. Gain the start of the right hand diagonal crack to approach (crux) the Right Bulge and swarm airily through the overhang.
+
'''BUTTERFLY''' 16m HS<br />''D. McMahon, D. Doyle, 30/4/83.''<br />6m right of Skull Buttress under the appropriately shaped skyline. Gain the obvious fault line to finish (crux) between the wings.
  
−
David Walsh, Gerry Galligan 29.08.2021
+
'''SKULLDUGGERY''' 8m S<br />''D. Doyle, D. McMahon, 30/4/83.''<br />The obvious south-facing chimney in the wall 100m right of Skull Buttress. Pleasant.
  
 +
==Falla Uachtarach==
 +
About 50m back from the top of Skull Buttress, at the next scarp line, is Falla Uachtarach with the following routes.
 +
[[File:S & S.jpg|center|thumb|alt=|500x500px]]
  
−
Looking upwards from the start of ''Díreach'' to the square cut breach in the Right Bulge
 
  
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Airily swarming the ''Díreach'' breach in the Right Bulge
+
[[File:Grren.jpg|800px]]
  
−
Route 9 – '''Imeall an Anscoilt Uachtar''' V. Diff.
+
'''SANTA's LIST''' 10m S <br />''David Brady, Darragh Heneghan,  4/3/2016.''<br />20m left of DOM look for a leaning block of rocks left of Diamond Left. Climb the crack line to the right alongside and follow the crack line to the top.
  
−
Climb the right hand edge of the upper Middle Buttress. Technically easy but psychologically challenging. Hardest move is to make a start – ascend the crack corner which is narrow at first, and which as it widens, the cautious may well keep somewhat left while thrill seekers might stick right. Belay on huge airy block.
+
'''DIAMOND LEFT''' 12m S  Diamond Right 12m S <br />''Darragh Heneghan, David Brady, 4/3/2016.''<br />Diamond shaped looking piece of limestone visible from the top of Aill Na Cronain. Picture included. Climb up to the corner to the base of the diamond. Follow crack line for finish. Diamond Right gives a suitable alternative. Loose rock in places.
  
−
David Walsh, Gerry Galligan 30.08.2021
+
'''GREEN IS THE VALE''' S<br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 4/11/2018.''<br />Start in the bay where the '''Diamond's''' begin, turn the overhang on the right by it's right hand side, continue up the wall and wide crack to top.
  
−
The start of ''Imeall an Anscoilt Uachtar''
+
20m to the right there is
  
−
Looking back down ''Imeall an Anscoilt Uachtar.''
+
'''DOM''' 10m S <br />''Ian Francis, Phil Ryan, 05/5/13.''<br />Small boulder moves lead to a tight chimney. Follow the corner crack to top out.
  
−
'''The North Buttress'''
+
'''CÉ’N SCÉAL''' 9m S <br />''Shane Walsh, Terrance Glancy, 05/5/13.''<br />Treat rock with care. Climb the flaky groove direct.
  
−
The North Buttress mainly faces west but also south, where the Ramp and also a lower ramp turn inwards / east. The west face is an extensive slab, where are most of the routes, while one route takes a south facing crack / corner line around the corner.
+
'''CREVICE CLAMP''' 14m S <br />''Lar McLachlan, Shane Murtagh, 05/5/13.''<br />Steep start leads to crescent shaped flake. Continue directly with interest to small grass ledge and scramble up the short wall.
  
−
'''Gran Gris Traverse S''' 25m *
+
'''SAINTS AND SINNERS''' 14m S <br />''Terrance Glancy, Aodhnait Carroll, 05/5/13.''<br />Tricky start leads to interesting and varied climbing on sound rock. Pass a ledge at 2/3 height and ascend a short crack to belay.
  
−
Starts at the left-hand end of the west facing wall, near the top of the descent ramp, taking a rising, right-ward trending fault line. Follow this line across the wall, L to R. A ledge with and partially broken section of lighter-toned wall denotes midway.  Delicate moves to continue, before passing two small corner sections to finish on the ramp, approximately three-quarters of the wall across.
+
'''JENNIE''' 16m VD<br />''Lower section Barry Watts, Conor Warner, Gerry Galligan, 9/10/2016.<br />Upper section Barry Watts, Stefan Reiman, 28/10/2017.<br />''Takes the crack 2m right of Saints and sinners with a tricky start, at two third height move right for 2m and take the leftward trending wide crack and corner to the top.
  
−
G. Galligan, Adele Fox 17/07/2021
+
100m to the right the cliff rises up again giving the following routes'''.'''
  
 +
[[File:Amended.jpg|600px|File:Amended.jpg]]
  
−
Gran Gris Traverse
+
'''REALT NA MARA''' 14m VD<br />''Conor Warner, Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 9/10/2016.''<br />Delightful climbing on the left hand end of the buttress, climb a series of wide cracks and ledges to the top.
  
−
'''Ciervo Volante''' VDiff 25m
+
'''PIER HOUSE BATS''' 12m HS 4c<br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, Gerry Galligan, 9/10/2016.''<br />Climb the shallow corner 3m right of Realt Na Mara, finish up the corner/chimney with difficulty.
  
−
Takes a direct line 3m from the right-hand end of the wall.
+
'''BEAN MHEIRICEÁNACH''' 12m HS 4b<br />''Gerry Galligan, Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 9/10/2016''<br />Start as for Pier House Bats, continue up the pleasant crack in the headwall.
  
−
Climb up to the wide left-trending ledge.  Continue on good features and holds to the top. Good protection.
+
'''MAGIC MÁLA''' 12m S<br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2/10/2016.''<br />Climb the cracked arête past the tree to a ledge, finish steeply up the crack (crux).
  
−
G. Galligan, Adele Fox 17/07/2021
+
'''AUTUMN GLORY''' 12m HS <br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2/10/2016.''<br />5m right of the arête climb the cracked wall with steep moves to start.
  
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'''Shipwreck Scramble'''     V. Diff. 20m
+
'''FACILE''' 12m D <br />''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 2/10/2016''<br />Takes the corner 4m right of Autumn Glory, follow the corner past a number of ledges to finish.
  
−
Scramble with caution from the foot of the descent ramp around to the south facing part of the cliff and almost immediately lies a prominent  left facing corner, above which a crack steeply accesses another even more prominent left facing corner above.  Crux is the crack between the two corners.  Nice sitting belay to start.  Finishes at Base Camp.
+
'''CLASH OF THE ASH''' 12m HS <br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2/10/2016.''<br />2m right of FACILE, climb the clean groove passing the over hang on the right, finish easily.  
  
−
C. Peppard, D. Walsh 17/07/2021
+
'''FEAR GORM''' 12m HS 4b<br />''Gerry Galligan, Conor Warner, 9/10/2016.''<br />Climb the groove 2m right of '''CLASH OF THE ASH'''.
  
−
'''Corner Craic.''' HS 4b 20m
+
'''CÚINNE DANA''' 12m S 4a<br />''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 9/10/2016''<br />Climbs the shallow corner 1m right of Fear Gorm, at the ledge continue up the short steep wall to finish.
  
−
Start at the cracked left facing corner.
+
'''POULATAGGLE EGGS''' 8m S<br />''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 4/11/2018.''<br />50m to the right there is a lone holly tree. Climb the wall to the right.
  
−
Climb the corner with difficulty to gain the slab above.
+
==Small Wall==
 +
This pleasant 12m high wall is located halfway between Skull Buttress and the Ailwee Cave car park. All the routes are excellent, the best being Demon Dim and Poetic Majesty.
  
−
Follow this on good holds to the top.
+
[[File:Small_crag_Routes.jpg|800px]]
  
−
B. Walker, W. Blanchfield 17/07/2021
+
'''I DON'T BELIEVE IT!''' * 12m E1 5b <br />''V. Cleary, J. Magee, May 2010.''<br />Ten meters left of the small wall there is a broken section with one obvious line up clean steep rock. Start on a short ramp and follow curving crack to horizontal break and then continue to the top. Nice technical movement.
  
−
===='''An Uaich Bhuí - Aghaidh Ó Dheas'''====
+
'''CRACKITY JONES''' 12m D<br />''D. Heneghan, D. O'Shea, 17/1/12.''<br />2m left of Rotteroute, starting between two boulders on the ground, following the obvious crack up alongside the pillar. Top out just left of the overhanging slab.
−
This area was poetically named The Petrified Wave Cliff by climbers<display_map zoom="16" type="satellite">54.297945, -10.00626~The Petrified Wave Cliff</display_map>'''From the car park follow the loop walk until it breaks left, head along this until you meet a bay on the left. Keeping the bay to your left walk and scramble to the furthest point of the head land.'''
 
  
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'''1. The break'''  HVS 5a 10 meters
+
'''ROTTEROUTE''' * 12m HS<br />''D. McMahon, D. Doyle, 30/4/83.''<br />Straight up from the leftmost triangular block on the ground. Follow the crack left of the large flake.
  
−
The first crack encountered when entering the wave. Easy climbing to where the wall kicks out then jug pulling to the top.
+
'''GROTTOROUTE''' * 12m S<br />''D. Walsh, P. Duggan, 30/4/83.''<br />Step off the right-hand triangular block at the grotto (niche) and go diagonally left to a crack on the right of a large flake. Straight to the top.
  
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H. Hennessy, J. Hennessy 19/6/2021
+
'''DEMON DIM''' ** 12m HVS<br />''T. Ryan, 1983.''<br />Start at the grotto and climb directly to the square-cut nick at the top.
  
−
'''2.Wipe out''' E1 5b 12 meters
+
'''FOLLYERUPPER''' * 12m HVS<br />''D. Walsh, 4/8/83.''<br />Start 3m right of the grotto. A high step onto the hollow flake. Weave left, then right to take the central overhanging bulge just left of the V-shaped nick in the skyline (crux).
  
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Start directly below the second crack, move right at half height to a huge jug then continue direct up a short groove to top.
+
'''THE SWEDISH AFFAIR''' HVS 5b
  
−
H. Hennessy (unseconded) 19/6/2021
+
''D Owens, J Hawkins, 19/9/1995.''
  
−
'''3.Cutback''' E2 5c 14meters
+
Start on the hollow flake of '''FOLLYERUPPER''' and climb directly up to and through the bulge, avoiding the crack on the right and the footholds on the left.
  
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Start just left of a small right facing corner, join wipe out until the crack runs right follow this with increasing difficulty.
+
'''PRICELESS''' * 12m VS<br />''D. Walsh, D. Doyle, 30/4/83.''<br />Start at the foot of the crack on the right of the buttress. Step off a rectangular block, then diagonally left to the central overhanging bulge which is turned on the right (crux). Stretchy.
  
−
H.Hennessy (unseconded) 19/6/2021
+
'''THE SHIRE''' HVS 5a/5b
  
−
'''4.THE BEST WAVE IN MAYO''' E4 6a 15 meters
+
''J Hawkins, D Owens, 19/9/1995.''
  
−
''Mick Walsh, unseconded, 27/08/2011 (Practiced on toprope)''
+
Starting on the point of the rectangular block, climb the wall directly to the V-shaped nick on the skyline avoiding the crack on '''POETIC MAJESTY''' and holds on '''PRICELESS.'''
  
−
This route follows the continous crack at the left end of this incredible cliff.
+
'''POETIC MAJESTY''' ** 12m VS<br />''D. Walsh, P. Duggan, 30/4/1983.''<br />The crack on the right of the wall above the rectangular block.
  
−
Climb the line of the crack also using positive holds on the face. A bit runout, a class route.
+
'''COVENANT''' 12m HS<br />''T. Ryan, 1983.''<br />The arête on the right of Poetic Majesty. Step left at half height. Climb the cracks to the top.
  
−
==='''An Uaich Bhuí - Aill Theas'''===
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[[Category:Pages with broken file links]]
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This area has not yet been written up<br />
 

Revision as of 22:46, 22 August 2023

Introduction

This crag lies about 400m north of Ailwee Cave and is clearly visible from the upper car park. A 10 minute level walk brings one to the top of the cliff and the descent gully can be located by continuing towards the north end. The Small Wall area is halfway across from the car-park.

Once down the descent gully it is worth moving about 50m out from the crag from where the skull shape of Skull Buttress becomes obvious. The routes in this area are self-evident from their names, with Skull Slab the right cheek. The East Side is north of the descent. To the north of the Skull Slab and the East Side areas the rock continues for another couple of hundred metres, the Far East Crag details the climbs on that section of rock. The crag ends with some large boulders suitable for bouldering.

Access

Peregrines are known to nest here, so best to avoid from the beginning of April to the end of August. Nests with eggs have been seen here in 2016 and 2017.

Aill na Crónain Topo

RTENOTITLEAill Na Cronain

Far East side

Far left wall.jpg

MAGIC CARPET RIDE VS 5a
Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 4/10/2015.
The first obvious crack line on the left edge of the buttress. The crux is getting off the magic carpet ledge and into the upper crack.

ALADDIN’S BIG TRIP HS
Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 30/4/2016.
Takes the slab and cracks 2m right of magic carpet ride, crux is gaining the first grassy ledge, side runners can be placed in the magic carpet ride crack to protect the start.

ALADDIN'S CRACK AND WALL 16m HS 4c
Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 4/6/2016.
Takes the wide crack and steep wall 4m right of Magic Carpet Ride.The steep final wall can be protected by placing gear in the crack on the left.

ALADDIN’S RAMP S
Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 2/5/2016.
Start at the bottom right hand side of the detached buttress-pinnacle. Move up the short cleaned arête and the longer corner to arrive on the broad ledge, finish up the steep shallow right facing corner on the left to exit as for Butcher’s Block.

BUTCHER’S BLOCK HS 4a
Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 4/10/2015.
A nice line spoilt by a pile of ominous looking overhanging blocks on the right wall. Climb the leftward trending ramp left of the striking arête,take care of the blocks on your right. At the ledge move left for 3m climb the right facing corner.

PERIGEE CORNER S
Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 30/4/2016.
Climb the wide crack corner finishing steeply over the jammed ‘wrecking ball block’.
This corner may feel open and exposed or a well protected classic, depending on mood.

The Scenic Variation VD
Conor Warner, Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan 27/9/2015.
Climbs the wide crack in the corner for 4m and traverse left along a ramp to finish directly up the wall.

BRIAN BORU WALL HS
Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 30/4/2016.
Start 3m right of Perigee corner, follow the twin cracks steeply to a ledge and continue up the next set of twin cracks to the top.

CIMA DELLA QUEVA 18m VS 5a
Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 8/10/2016.
Bouldery bridging and crack jamming at the start, climb the overhanging short corner 4m right of Brain Buru Wall to a ledge, finish up the right trencing crack/flake.

SPELEO HIGHWAY HS
Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 30/4/2016.
Start at the steep arête left and downhill of the large chimney cave.  Climb steeply up the arete and short wall to reach a grassy ledge. Finish up the crack which trends leftwards and upwards out of the overhanging cave.

EXIT PURSUED BY A BEAR 20m HS 4a
Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 8/10/2016.
Climbs directly up the face of the cave right of Speleo Highway.

CRON'S CAVE Grade a clambering
First Ascent A man followed by a bear
First Recorded Ascent Conor Warner, November 2015.
Clamber with care into the Cave and exit easily through the roof opening.

WHITE KNIGHT VS 4c
Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 4/10/2015.
A steep gymnastic line with good protection and holds where it matters. Start on a blunt arête of rock. 3m left of Cath Deirgne, climb over ledges until just below the overhanging Knight block which is left of the ivy curtain. Surmount this block directly, and finish up the groove.

REGGAELATION 20m S 4a
Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 8/10/2016.
Climb the long corner groove right of White Knight, the last 5m are the crux.

COROFIN TRAMP VARIATION VS 5a
Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 8/10/2016.
Takes the steep wall and crack 2m right of the Reggaelation finish.

CATH DEIRGNE 16m HS
Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 27/9/2015.
Start 2m left of Farranshone and follow the steep crack that is formed by the left hand side of the pillar mentioned above, step right to finish at the overhanging headwall.

CATH DEIRGNE DIRECT VS 5a
Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 4/10/2015.
Finish up the overhanging wall.

FARRANSHONE * 16m S
Conor Warner, Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 27/9/2015.
A fine route on good rock, it starts just left of the ash tree and takes the obvious continuous arête and pillar. Climb the wide crack (harder than it looks) to reach a ledge and continue up the pillar.

COROLLA GROOVE  HS
Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 2/5/2016.
This route ascends the cracked groove, left of Corolla Crusaders. Start as for Corolla Crusaders to the grassy terrace. Move up the same arete for 2m before traversing delicately left into the groove (crux) to finish directly up the wall.

A variation exists to climb the overhang directly to gain the groove. Awaiting FA.

COROLLA CRUSADERS S
Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 3/10/2015.
Start 1m left of the tree, climb the wall to the grassy ledge. Continue up the textured wall on good holds just right of the arête.

Righthand.jpg


Restless natives

RESTLESS NATIVES 16m S
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, Gerry Galligan, 27/9/2015.
Starts at the steep twin crack 2m right of the ash tree. Climb the crack, cross the ledge and finish up the wide crack in the slab above, medium to big gear essential.

PAMELA ANDERSON * HS
Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 3/10/2015.
A fine companion piece to Restless Natives. Start right of Restless Natives to the grassy ledge. Continue directly over a delicate step via a narrow crack to a stance under the upper arête. Finish up the attractive-looking crack in the wall just left of this upper arête. She’s a star!

ARTICLES OF WAR 18m HVS 5a
Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 4/6/2016.
Start 2m left of The Lug Walk and just left of a hawthorne tree. Boulder up the wall just left of the arêteto reach better holds and the wide grassy terrace. Continue up the next short wall by the right hand-side to reach a ledge. Step left and finish up the steep smooth headwall by the prominent crack (crux).    

THE LUG WALK D
Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 3/10/2015.
Long and easy but with good climbing for the grade. Start at the wide stepped corner groove 10m right of the tree, follow the groove line to the upper sloping ramp. Ignore the wide off-width crack on your left. Instead, take the arête 2m to it’s right, climb the arête to finish.

GLENMALURE LODGE FINISH HS
Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 4/10/2015.
Once in, it's tricky to get out of ! Finish up the wide off-width crack.

WILDCAT GROWL 25m S
Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 4/6/2016.
Follow the prominent arête just right of the start of The Lug Walk.On reaching the large recess scramble up the front crag line to finish.  

SUPER MOON BLOW VS 4c
Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 3/10/2015.
Climb the steep groove (crux) 6m right of The Lug Walk to gain the terrace ramp. Move to the dark corner at the back of the ramp. Climb this corner to finish

East Side

CENTENARY CRACK 10m VD
Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 2/5/2016.
Easy and enjoyable. Takes the left-trending crack line 1m left of Cleft.

CLEFT 10m VD
I. Graham, K. Price, 4/5/1971.
Catapult-shaped corner, 30m left of the descent. Finish up left or direct over the jammed boulder.

BLOODLINE 10m S
Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 2/5/2016.
Takes the crack line 3m right of Cleft to gain a niche.  Veer right to avoid the overhang which is cappedwith ivy and a loose block.

AILEEN's ARETE 10m VD
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 1/11/2015.
20m left of the descent and 4m right of the hawthorn tree there is a 10m high smooth wall. Climb the left hand side of the smooth wall to the sentry box/gully, Finish up the juggy arête on the left.

EAST SIDE STORY 10m HS
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 1/11/2015.
Takes the slim crack in the smooth wall 2m left of Fright

FRIGHT 10m S
I. Rowe, K. Price, 14/8/1974.
The left hand of the twin cracks in the wall just left of the descent

DE GAULLE 10m MS
K. Price, I. Rowe, 14/8/1974.
The arete just right of Fright. Awkward at the top.

Skull Buttress

About 25m at its highest, the buttress looks remarkably like a skull when seen from a distance. Route names and descriptions refer to features of the skull.

File:Skull.jpg

HOLLOW, MAN 15m HVS 5a
H. Hennessy, J. Boyce, 24/9/2013.
Start just left of "eustachian tube" in a short corner, climb this up to a short steep wall underneath a small left facing corner made up of hollow flakes. climb this to top.

EUSTACHIAN TUBE 20m S
P. Coakley, M. McCormack, 1982.
Start just right of the descent on the extreme left of the buttress under an open-book corner at the top. Gain a large rounded ledge at 15m by a ridge weakness and climb the top corner on the right.

LOCKJAW 15m HVS 5a
F Cox, C Warner, September 1999.
Start 2m-3m right and down the hill from EUSTACAIN TUBE, there is a shallow groove leading up to a slab [directly below the finishing corner of DIAGONALS], climb this confidently to a large pocket [large cam] rockover delicately and so reach the ledge and finish up the corner.

CREST OF A WAVE 20m HVS 5a
H. Hennessy, J. Boyce, 24/9/2013.
Start just right of "lockjaw" at a thin curving crack, climb this to a good hold then move right along the lip of the overhang to meet "eureka" follow this to top.

MONKEY BUSINESS 20m E2 5c
H.Hennessy, R. Sohel, 24/9/2013.
A direct start to "crest of a wave" climb the center of the overhang passing three horizontal breaks, protection difficult to arrange.

DIAGONALS 25m S
K. Price, I. Graham, 12/12/71.
Start at the foot of the tortuous ridge just left of the foot of the buttress. Climb the ridge which is the left edge of the smooth cracked slab by weaving past the obstacles, left and right. At 17m step left and climb the same corner as Eustachian Tube.

EUREKA * 25m HS
D. Walsh, P. Duggan, 30/4/83.
Climbs the same ridge as Diagonals but directly. Finish straight (crux) up the headwall just right of the arête (right eye socket).

SKULL SLAB ** 25m VD
K. Price, I. Graham, 4/9/71.
This slab is the main feature of the buttress and is the true right cheek of the skull. Smooth, cracked and well protected. Start at the lowest point of the buttress and gain the lowest part of the slab at 4m diagonally left. Climb the slab and exit through the left eye socket above right.

Variation finish 5b Step left via awkward and perplexing move onto the high slab on left and climb headwall above. Variation forehead finish 5a F Cox, B Watts, Jan 1999 High up on Skull slab and before you exit out the Left eye socket it is possible to go up the ‘forehead’, 2m left of the slab and marked by a sapling on the right there is a small blank corner, finish boldly up this and the wall above.

SKULL'S NOSE 25m S
M. McCormack, P. Coakley, 1982.
Start at the lowest point of the buttress. The nose is the arête on the right of Skull Slab. Gain the arête from below right. Exit just left of the top of Skull Slab by a break in the headwall.
DIRECT START 4b M. Keogh, H Hennessy, 24/9/2013. Start directly below the arete underneath an overhang, climb up the right facing corner and out through the roof to meet skull's nose.

LEFT CHEEK 25m S
K. Price, I. Graham, 1/1/72.
Start just right of the lowest point of the buttress. Follow broken, easy rock on the right of the nose and gain Skull Slab just below its exit at the top.

RAVEN ** 20m E3 6a
P Owens, D Brosnan, May 2007.
Start just left of boulder and underneath the overhanging prow. Climb easy ground to gain a groove. Go up this for a few metres to where an overhanging break goes out right. Arrange wires here and traverse out right with increasing difficulty. Reach out right to grasp jug on the nose of the overhang and swing out to slab for a breather. Continue easily up the arête to the top.

TheSmirk.JPG

THE SMIRK 22m & 18m S
C and A Warner, 6/6/13.
A two pitch enjoyable atmospheric traverse from right to left across ‘Skull Buttress’.
1. Start as for 'Left Cheek' and climb the enjoyable corner above to ‘Skull’s Nose’. Traverse across ‘Skull Slab’ to the corner half way up ‘Diagonals’. Belay here.
2. Follow ‘Diagonals’ left around the arête and up to a series of good ledges. Hand traverse left across ‘Eustachian Tube’ to easy ground.

Aill Na Cronain Sunbane & Mayday.jpg

SUNBANE * 20m E1 5c
T. Ryan, 30/4/83.
This is the deep V-groove with an overhang at one-third height on the right side of the buttress.

MAYDAY ** 20m VS
D. Walsh, P. Duggan, 30/4/83.
The right-slanting crackline right of Sunbane. Start as for Sunbane. Escape right at 2m with difficulty onto a short slab. Bridge over the overhang and step left. The strenuous crack above is the crux.

SKULL'S EAR 20m D
D. Rowe, I. Rowe, 1972.
The rib on the extreme right of the buttress.

BUTTERFLY 16m HS
D. McMahon, D. Doyle, 30/4/83.
6m right of Skull Buttress under the appropriately shaped skyline. Gain the obvious fault line to finish (crux) between the wings.

SKULLDUGGERY 8m S
D. Doyle, D. McMahon, 30/4/83.
The obvious south-facing chimney in the wall 100m right of Skull Buttress. Pleasant.

Falla Uachtarach

About 50m back from the top of Skull Buttress, at the next scarp line, is Falla Uachtarach with the following routes.


Grren.jpg

SANTA's LIST 10m S
David Brady, Darragh Heneghan, 4/3/2016.
20m left of DOM look for a leaning block of rocks left of Diamond Left. Climb the crack line to the right alongside and follow the crack line to the top.

DIAMOND LEFT 12m S Diamond Right 12m S
Darragh Heneghan, David Brady, 4/3/2016.
Diamond shaped looking piece of limestone visible from the top of Aill Na Cronain. Picture included. Climb up to the corner to the base of the diamond. Follow crack line for finish. Diamond Right gives a suitable alternative. Loose rock in places.

GREEN IS THE VALE S
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 4/11/2018.
Start in the bay where the Diamond's begin, turn the overhang on the right by it's right hand side, continue up the wall and wide crack to top.

20m to the right there is

DOM 10m S
Ian Francis, Phil Ryan, 05/5/13.
Small boulder moves lead to a tight chimney. Follow the corner crack to top out.

CÉ’N SCÉAL 9m S
Shane Walsh, Terrance Glancy, 05/5/13.
Treat rock with care. Climb the flaky groove direct.

CREVICE CLAMP 14m S
Lar McLachlan, Shane Murtagh, 05/5/13.
Steep start leads to crescent shaped flake. Continue directly with interest to small grass ledge and scramble up the short wall.

SAINTS AND SINNERS 14m S
Terrance Glancy, Aodhnait Carroll, 05/5/13.
Tricky start leads to interesting and varied climbing on sound rock. Pass a ledge at 2/3 height and ascend a short crack to belay.

JENNIE 16m VD
Lower section Barry Watts, Conor Warner, Gerry Galligan, 9/10/2016.
Upper section Barry Watts, Stefan Reiman, 28/10/2017.
Takes the crack 2m right of Saints and sinners with a tricky start, at two third height move right for 2m and take the leftward trending wide crack and corner to the top.

100m to the right the cliff rises up again giving the following routes.

File:Amended.jpg

REALT NA MARA 14m VD
Conor Warner, Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 9/10/2016.
Delightful climbing on the left hand end of the buttress, climb a series of wide cracks and ledges to the top.

PIER HOUSE BATS 12m HS 4c
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, Gerry Galligan, 9/10/2016.
Climb the shallow corner 3m right of Realt Na Mara, finish up the corner/chimney with difficulty.

BEAN MHEIRICEÁNACH 12m HS 4b
Gerry Galligan, Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 9/10/2016
Start as for Pier House Bats, continue up the pleasant crack in the headwall.

MAGIC MÁLA 12m S
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2/10/2016.
Climb the cracked arête past the tree to a ledge, finish steeply up the crack (crux).

AUTUMN GLORY 12m HS
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2/10/2016.
5m right of the arête climb the cracked wall with steep moves to start.

FACILE 12m D
Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 2/10/2016
Takes the corner 4m right of Autumn Glory, follow the corner past a number of ledges to finish.

CLASH OF THE ASH 12m HS
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2/10/2016.
2m right of FACILE, climb the clean groove passing the over hang on the right, finish easily.

FEAR GORM 12m HS 4b
Gerry Galligan, Conor Warner, 9/10/2016.
Climb the groove 2m right of CLASH OF THE ASH.

CÚINNE DANA 12m S 4a
Conor Warner, Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 9/10/2016
Climbs the shallow corner 1m right of Fear Gorm, at the ledge continue up the short steep wall to finish.

POULATAGGLE EGGS 8m S
Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 4/11/2018.
50m to the right there is a lone holly tree. Climb the wall to the right.

Small Wall

This pleasant 12m high wall is located halfway between Skull Buttress and the Ailwee Cave car park. All the routes are excellent, the best being Demon Dim and Poetic Majesty.

Small crag Routes.jpg

I DON'T BELIEVE IT! * 12m E1 5b
V. Cleary, J. Magee, May 2010.
Ten meters left of the small wall there is a broken section with one obvious line up clean steep rock. Start on a short ramp and follow curving crack to horizontal break and then continue to the top. Nice technical movement.

CRACKITY JONES 12m D
D. Heneghan, D. O'Shea, 17/1/12.
2m left of Rotteroute, starting between two boulders on the ground, following the obvious crack up alongside the pillar. Top out just left of the overhanging slab.

ROTTEROUTE * 12m HS
D. McMahon, D. Doyle, 30/4/83.
Straight up from the leftmost triangular block on the ground. Follow the crack left of the large flake.

GROTTOROUTE * 12m S
D. Walsh, P. Duggan, 30/4/83.
Step off the right-hand triangular block at the grotto (niche) and go diagonally left to a crack on the right of a large flake. Straight to the top.

DEMON DIM ** 12m HVS
T. Ryan, 1983.
Start at the grotto and climb directly to the square-cut nick at the top.

FOLLYERUPPER * 12m HVS
D. Walsh, 4/8/83.
Start 3m right of the grotto. A high step onto the hollow flake. Weave left, then right to take the central overhanging bulge just left of the V-shaped nick in the skyline (crux).

THE SWEDISH AFFAIR HVS 5b

D Owens, J Hawkins, 19/9/1995.

Start on the hollow flake of FOLLYERUPPER and climb directly up to and through the bulge, avoiding the crack on the right and the footholds on the left.

PRICELESS * 12m VS
D. Walsh, D. Doyle, 30/4/83.
Start at the foot of the crack on the right of the buttress. Step off a rectangular block, then diagonally left to the central overhanging bulge which is turned on the right (crux). Stretchy.

THE SHIRE HVS 5a/5b

J Hawkins, D Owens, 19/9/1995.

Starting on the point of the rectangular block, climb the wall directly to the V-shaped nick on the skyline avoiding the crack on POETIC MAJESTY and holds on PRICELESS.

POETIC MAJESTY ** 12m VS
D. Walsh, P. Duggan, 30/4/1983.
The crack on the right of the wall above the rectangular block.

COVENANT 12m HS
T. Ryan, 1983.
The arête on the right of Poetic Majesty. Step left at half height. Climb the cracks to the top.

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