Difference between pages "Ballyryan" and "Iorras - Gleann Lára"

From Irish Climbing Wiki
(Difference between pages)
m
 
(added aill thuaidh layout)
 
Line 1: Line 1:
−
==Introduction==
+
This page is a work in progress
  
−
''This little crag is comprised of pillars, corners and chimneys and can be seen clearly from the road. Most of the routes were climbed by Tiglin groups before they were recorded. Access - From the car-park of Ailladie (Stone Wall area) walk south for a few hundred metres until the roadside crag swings sharply east and becomes a bit higher.'' Known locally as Ballyreen.
+
Leithinis an Mhuirthead (the Mullet Peninsula)—also known as an Mhuirthead ( the Mullet) —is a peninsula in the barony of Iorras (Erris) in the Gaelteacht in County Mayo. It consists of a large promontory connected to the mainland at Béal an Mhuirthead (Belmullet) by a narrow isthmus. At its northern end is the townland of Gleann Lára and all the climbs listed here are in that townland as is Ceann Iorras (Erris Head).
  
−
[[File:CaptureCC.JPG|300px|File:CaptureCC.JPG]]
+
Starting from American Street in Béal an Mhuirhead continue north straight on L1201 for 3km and then turn left onto a minor road just after a sharp right bend. After another 1.6km turn right at a T-junction. At the next T-junction at the top of a small hill after 1200m make a V turn left. Follow this road to where it ends at parking at Gleann Lara on the shore of An Siolar (Danish Cellar).
 +
[[File:Gleann_Lara_access.png|alt=|center|frameless|800x800px]]
 +
<br />
 +
 
 +
===='''Danish Cellar'''====
 +
'''The routes described below are located on big slabs just east of the car park at Danish Cellar (OS .5 sheet 6, F 708 395) near Erris Head in the Belmullet Peninsula, North Mayo. There is great potential for quality new routes in the area.'''
 +
 
 +
'''There are three principal areas of slabs (see Figure 3. New Climbs '82), all west-facing and located on ill-defined headlands. The top of the first area of slabs is visible from the car park at Danish Cellar and is characterised by the presence of green lichen and a vertical to overhanging headwall. They are reached by crossing a small steep-sided valley and stream adjacent to the car park. The second area of slabs is only a short distance further east and is characterised by large areas of featureless black rock. The third area of slabs is further east again (about 15 minutes walk from the car park). On the right there is a large black slab characterised by white speckles. Left of this the slabs are more complex with cracks and overhangs, but a long leftward-trending crack is characteristic.'''
 +
 
 +
'''The only belays possible on top are wooden or metal stakes, which can easily be driven into the soft bog. The slabs are composed of psammite, a metamorphosed sandstone,  and provide extremely unusual climbing in a magnificent situation.'''
 +
[[File:Danish_cellar.png|link=http://wiki.climbing.ie/File:Danish_cellar.png|alt=|center|441x441px]]
 +
 
 +
 
 +
'''FREAGHILLAUN''' 43m HVS 4c
 +
<br>''T. Ryan, S. MacGerailt, P. Breen. 10/9/1989''
 +
<br>The centre of the crag is split by an obvious dirty groove, usually seeping. This route takes the broad slab left of the groove and finishes up an obvious crack in the steep headwall. A band of overhangs traverses across the bottom half of the slabs. Belay on a small ledge below the dirty groove at the left-hand side of the widest part of the overhangs.
 +
 
 +
'''HELLSFIRE''' 43m E1 5a
 +
<br>''T. Ryan, S. MacGerailt, P. Breen. 10/9/1989''
 +
<br>This route starts as for Freaghillaun and takes the slab between the dirty groove and Pathfinder. Start at the base of the dirty groove at the left edge of the widest part of the overhang. Move right across the slab above the wide overhang to a ledge at the base of a vegetated groove. Continue up rightwards on steepening lichenous rock to a vague diagonal crack, hidden in the lichen and climb directly up the overhanging wall above on increasingly large holds to finish at a cleaned ledge at the top. Excellent exhilarating climbing.
 +
 
 +
'''PATHFINDER''' 43m HVS
 +
<br>''T. Ryan, O. Jacob. 1/12/1982''
 +
<br>The green lichenous slabs visible from the car park are best viewed from a small promontory just opposite the slab. They are bordered on the right side by a prominent arête and a band of stepwise overhangs crosses the slab from right to left. This route takes the broad slab left of the groove and finishes up an obvious crack in the steep headwall. A band of overhangs traverses across the bottom half of the slabs. Belay on a small ledge below the dirty groove at the left-hand side of the widest part of the overhangs. Pathfinder takes the slab on the right of the dirty groove.Move up left over the overhang. Continue leftwards, up the lichenous slab to reach the crack near the top. Climb steeply up this. Poor protection. Stake belay.
 +
 
 +
'''CLEO''' 43m HVS 4c
 +
<br>''T. Ryan, E. Hernstadt, S. Gallwey. 6/3/1983<nowiki><br></nowiki>''
 +
This route takes a thin crack in the slab just left of the arête, about 7m. right of Pathfinder. Towards the top it climbs the vertical headwall just right of the final groove of Pathfinder. Abseil down and belay on a small ledge below the overlap and 1m. left of the arête. Climb up to the overlap and gain the slab above. Ascend the thin crack until it runs out and up right to a small ledge just left of the arête and below a small overlap. Step up and follow holds left until it is possible to move back right to a deep diagonal crack below the steeper headwall. Hand-traverse left to below a short thin black crack. Climb steeply past the crack and trend up left (avoiding easy ground on the left) to quartz veins. Continue up steeply, trending left, to the top of the groove of Pathfinder. The top of this route offers very strenuous and spectacular, if somewhat contrived, climbing. Small friends and tricams necessary to protect the top section of the route.
 +
 
 +
'''SEA QUEEN''' 43m VS 4b
 +
<br>''T. Ryan, S. MacGearailt, P. Breen. 10/9/1989''
 +
<br>Takes the obvious arête bordering the right-hand side of the crag. Start as for Cleo on a ledge below the overhang at the bottom of the arête. Avoid the overhang by first moving right and then left above it. Climb pleasantly up the left side of the arête to a small ledge below a small overlap (shared with Cleo). Step right onto the arête and up this to a ledge with suspect rock below an overhanging groove. Climb the groove on large holds to the top. (Very little protection on the arête).
  
−
'''HIGHWAY PATROL''' S<br />''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 17/10/2020''<br />Before the roadside crag swings sharply East and 5m left of '''PUCK MAY BE FAMOUS''' there is a high face split by a discontinuous crack line. Climb the crack and take care with the rock.
+
'''''The next route is on the third area of slabs'''''
  
−
'''PUCK MAY BE FAMOUS''' VD (1)<br />''M McGrath, T Sommerville 09/03/2019''<br />Razor sharp rock, follow the crack to top, lots of protection.
+
'''SKYLARK''' 76m HS 3c
 +
<nowiki><br></nowiki>''O. Jacob, S. Gallwey. 27/3/1982<nowiki><br></nowiki>''
 +
This route takes the obvious left-trending diagonal crack on the third area of slabs east of Danish Cellar. Abseil down to a palatial ledge just below an overhang (wooden stake in place; it may be rotten). The climb provides magnificent situations and exposure for the grade. 1. 43m. . Traverse leftwards around the overhang and then up and right to the crack. Follow this to a belay. 2. 43m. Follow the crack and jugs almost to the top. Avoid the grassy finish by traversing left to huge holds on an arête. Stake belay in place.
  
−
[[File:Picture5330365.png|600px|File:Picture5330365.png]]
+
===='''An Uaich Bhuí - Aill Thuaidh'''====
 +
Access is 20 minutes or so westwards on foot across fields and open land from the roadhead on the shore of An Siolar (Danish Cellar).
 +
[[File:Aill thuaidh layout.jpg|center|thumb|626x626px]]
  
  
−
'''SALTSHAKER''' HS<br />''E Fitzgerald, 20/12/1997'' <br />A thin line following the left crack and slab marked in light blue below and left of JOE SMOKES CRACK
+
This is a west facing sea cliff about 40m high divided by two enormous vertical fault-lines or chasms into three distinct buttresses – Left, Middle (currently by far the most developed) and Right. A ramp divides all three buttresses into upper and lower tiers. The ramp runs from top left of the North Buttress F695-408 gradually downwards to about mid height where it reaches the Middle Buttress, remains horizontal across the Middle Buttress F695-407, and then rises gradually upwards to top right of the South Buttress F495-406. It is not possible to get from the Middle to the right buttress at ramp level.
  
−
[[File:Saltshaker.jpg|600px|File:Saltshaker.jpg]]
+
Access to the climbing is by the Ramp, from the north end for the North Buttress and Middle Buttress, from the south for the South Buttress. The Middle Buttress is accessible with a little care, but only from the left or northern end.  The Ramp is utterly impassable as between the Middle Buttress and the South Buttress.  Abseiling is also relevant where some may prefer to leave a fixed abseil in position to facilitate (for instance) multiple parties accessing multiple climbs on the upper Middle Buttress, in preference to the walk around.  The one and only climb (at time of writing) on the Middle Lower Buttress below the Ramp is accessible only by abseil from the Ramp, and the same for the sole route below the Ramp on the South Buttress.
  
−
'''JOE SMOKES CRACK''' VD (1)<br />''T Sommerville, M McGrath 09/03/2019''<br />As shown, a really nice crack with lots of lovely gear placement, get to the ledge 3/4 of the way up and continue to top. Anchors are sparse but there are two threads a ways back, bring a long rope.
+
Base Camp is a matter of choice, but the Ramp on North Buttress, just where the other Buttresses come into view, has become popular.
  
−
'''GET THEM FECKIN' CRUNCHIES''' Diff (1)<br />''M McGrath, T Sommerville 09/03/2019''<br />A small climb but room for nice gear if you want it. A small climbing challenge at the start and then easy to the finish. Good for practice
+
Climbing on the North Buttress is accessed easily by scrambling steeply down a lower ramp from top left, starting at much the same position as the Ramp itself.
  
−
'''NOT TERRY'S CRACK''' S (2)<br />''G Shannon, O Kelly 09/03/2019''<br />Climb starts 3m left of wham bam tank you cam. 
+
All directions are given as though looking at the rock from seaward.
−
Follow crack. Traverse  right two thirds of the way up.  No.1 nut needed for protection on last move. Easy start hard finish
 
−
[[File:Sketch-1552232504555.jpg|none|thumb|600x600px]]
 
−
'''WHAM BAM THANK YOU CAM''' S (3)<br />''A Ní Cheallaigh-Mhuirí  R O'Sullivan 08/03/2019'' <br />Route far to the left of usual scramble ascent/descent. Start the crack just left of boulder. Protect from below the crux - a bulge which is strenuous to gain. Then continue the crack easily towards the right.
 
  
−
'''KINDER SURPRISE''' HVS 5a<br />''J. Hawkins, J O'Connor, 1994''<br />Start on the face left of ‘Whose corner’ and 1m right of the descent, climb the thin crack over a tricky bit to the top.
+
'''The South Buttress'''
  
−
[[File:1972.PNG|600px|File:1972.PNG]]
+
The South Buttress has just three climbs as of September 2021, two recent easy west facing routes above the Ramp and a much earlier in time south facing E4 below it. The west facing climbing area above the Ramp is not particularly well supplied with readily identifiable features, but there are three discernible left facing corners and the two grade Diff routes take the leftmost and rightmost of these.
  
−
First ascent of Whose Corner and Wackey (Steve Young photo collection)
+
'''Details are awaited.'''
  
−
'''WHOSE CORNER''' VS 4c<br />''First ascent J O'Connor J Whyte August 1972 First Recorded Ascent ''
+
'''THE BEST WAVE IN MAYO''' E4 6a 15m
−
C. Torrans (solo)''<br />The short, right-facing corner 15m left of the chimney.''
 
  
−
'''TESCO VALUE HANGOVER''' HS 4b <br />''First Recorded Ascent M .Campbell, T. Fegan 14/07/2013'' <br />Climb the crack line 1.5m right of 'Whose Corner'. An easy start provides protection for a thoughtful finish.
+
''Mick Walsh, unseconded, 27/08/2011 (Practiced on toprope)''
  
−
'''WACKEY''' HS<br />''J Mulhall K Whyte August 1972'' <br />Climb the broken crack 3m right of whose corner
+
This route follows the continuous crack at the left end of the south facing section of this incredible cliff below the Ramp.  Climb the line of the crack also using positive holds on the face. A big runout, a class route.
  
−
'''CAOIMHE''' HVS/E1 5a<br />''Alan Flood, Derick Tully, July 2010''<br />1.5m to the right of Wackey follow the thin left trending crack that eventually disappears to a featureless crux finish.
+
'''The Middle Buttress'''
  
−
'''THE DIVIL GETS AT YA''' HS<br />''B Watts, A O’Toole, S Kelly, B O’Toole, G Angelini, 28/7/2019 (First recorded ascent).''<br />Start just right of ‘’Caoimhe’’, climb straight up the wall and tackle the short off width crack.
+
The Middle Buttress boasts ten climbs at this time, nine above and one below the Ramp.  The climb (Claudine) below the Ramp takes the distinct crack line over by the right hand edge of the buttress, as follows.
  
−
'''BALLYMEGASH''' HS<br />''B Watts, G Angelini, A O’Toole, S Kelly, B O’Toole, K Kelly, 28/7/2019 (First recorded ascent).''<br />The obvious fissure right of ‘’’the divil’’ is easy to start , finish up the steep
+
'''Claudine''' MS  22m **
−
wide crack.
 
  
−
'''STREET RACER''' VD<br />''B Watts, A O'Toole, 7/4/2019 (First recorded ascent)''<br />Climb the broken rib 2m left of '''FROST IN MAY''' to the ledge and finish up the wide crack
+
Takes the distinctive and direct crack at the right-hand end of the lower wall, to the Ramp.  Excellent protection throughout.
  
−
'''FROST IN MAY''' S<br />Start below the left-facing corner crack at half height. Climb over the bulge, up to the corner crack and up this to the top.
+
G. Galligan, B. Walker. 30/08/2021
  
−
'''COUCH POTATOES ''' HS<br />''B Watts, E Fitzgerald, 15/2/1998''<br />Start right of Frost in May, climb easily up the wide crack to a ledge and gain the top using the left hand crack.
+
The upper section is complex.
  
−
'''RIB''' VD<br />The flakey rib just left of the chimney.
 
  
−
'''CHIMNEY''' D<br />The chimney with the jammed chockstone. (6)
+
The Middle Buttress above the Ramp is divided vertically into two equal sections left and right of an eye catching black coloured classic layback corner (“the Black Corner”), and horizontally into about equal upper and lower sections by a faint horizontal fault line just above the level of the top of the Black Corner.  The left section runs from the northern of the two chasms towards the Black Corner, the predominant features at lower level of which are an arched recess (the Arched Recess) and a slab between it and the Black Corner, each topped by a smooth triangular slab bounded on the right by steeper ground and then a shallow gully. The right section runs from the Black Corner all the way to the southern impassable chasm, in the upper level of which are two prominent bulges, the left one (the Left Bulge) with a shallow a chimney in the middle and the right one (the Right Bulge) having a deep crack penetrating a prominent square cut in the overhang.  Each bulge is above an associated diagonal crack rising from bottom left.
  
−
'''BETWEEN LEFT CRACK''' S<br />''Brian Rodgers 1/8/2009''<br />Start just right of Chimney and far left of Left Crack. Climb directly to the top
+
Route 1 – '''Céim suas''' Severe.  
  
−
'''7. LEFT CRACK''' HS 4b<br />The crack just right of chimney. (7)
+
Start two metres left of Arched Recess. Gain the overlap at its lowest point. Climb the slab above to a recess, follow this to the top.
  
−
'''8. RIGHT CRACK''' * VD<br />Easy to start, difficult to finish. (8)
+
B. Walker, W. Blanchfield 29.08.2021
  
−
'''9. BALLYALPINE''' S<br />''Unknown''<br />Climb 2 m up ‘Right crack’ then veer right up the slab and wall to the top.<br />Note: It’s been climbed for years but I heard it referred to by Clare climbers as Ballyalpine (9)
+
Route 2 – '''Céim ar Chlé''' HS
  
−
'''10. VULGARIAN''' S<br />''R. Mullen, T. Ore 01/12/98''<br />Start just left of the base of Wide Chimney. Up over short vertical cracks to a tiny slab then direct to the top. (10)
+
#Climb the crack in the right corner of the Arched Recess to its roof, and escape left onto the slab above. Follow the fault line directly to the terrace.
  
−
'''10a. GETYOURNAMEINTHEBOOK''' HS4c<br />''J Healy, G O'Mahony 01/01/20''<br />Climb the arete between Vulgarian and Wide chimney
+
2. Climb the obvious thin crack to a short chimney and climb this to the top.
  
−
'''11. WIDE CHIMNEY''' D<br />The second chimney on the crag, just left of the steep wall. (11)
+
B. Walker, W. Blanchfield (Alt. Leads) 28.08.2021 4b, 4a
  
−
'''11b. CHEAP LABOUR''' E1 5a<br />''(Tim and John O'Connell, March 09)''<br />This route is to the left of ''Slave Labour''. Follows the blank slab then runs into a crack before topping out. (Red)
+
Route 3 - '''San Nicolas''' VS (4c, 4b) 30m  ***
  
−
[[File:CheapLabour.jpg|RTENOTITLE|alt=|800x800px]]
+
1. Start just right of the Recessed Arch.  Massive thread belay to begin.  Climb the outside arête, which trends leftwards, making delicate moves to gain the wide ledge above.
  
−
'''12. SLAVE LABOUR''' E1 5b<br />''C. Torrans.''<br />This route climbs the thin crack in the steep west-facing wall. Good climbing on sound rock. (12)
+
2. At a shallow niche, climb the crack which links to another foot-niche.  Then continue up the wall directly to the top, utilising the cracks en route.  
  
−
'''13. MANNERLESS MONSTER''' * HS 4b<br />''C. Torrans.''<br />This excellent little route climbs the broad rib on the left edge of the alcove. Climb the rib to the top. Poor protection.
+
G. Galligan, D. Walsh. 29/08/2021
  
−
'''AGONY ANT''' E2 5c <br />''Brian Rodgers 1/8/2009''<br />Start on the slab wall left of the arete next to The Alcove Crack. Climb directly to the top of the crag on small holds with pockets to start. Do not use the arete
+
Route 4 - '''Santiago''' HS  4b 30m  **
  
−
'''THE ALCOVE CRACK''' * HS 4b<br />This route takes the left of the two wide cracks in the alcove. Strenuous climbing on sound rock.
+
Starts in the centre of the wall, 3m left of the Black Corner.  Climb the thin cracks to gain the equivalent level of the wide ledge above.  Avoiding the wide ledge, move up the short broken wall to gain the prominent triangular alcove. Climb out of the alcove, taking the crack above to finish.
  
−
'''TRIUMPH CRACK''' * HS 4b<br />The right-hand of the two cracks. Strenuous but delightful climbing.
+
G. Galligan, D. Walsh. 28/08/2021
  
−
'''€40 PATAGONIA HAT'''   Diff<br>''Adam West and Fionn Delahunty  16/04/2017''<br>An adventure through the crag, pass through Triumph Crack into the narrow chimney, then squeeze in behind the chockstones and slither to the top.
+
Route 5 – '''Black Corner''' VS 4c
  
−
'''LOUISE''' VS <br />''Brian Rodgers 01/8/2009''<br />Start in the centre of the wall between Triumph Crack and Hippy to Yuppy. Climb directly to the top. Tricky to adequately protect.
+
Climb the corner, exiting right at top, then move up and left to good belay ledges and continue to top.
  
−
'''HIPPY TO YUPPY''' HVS 5b<br />''C. Torrans, C. Sheridan, 27/4/86''<br />Up the arete to the ledge and continue up the right edge.
+
Paddy O’Brien, Christina Tan 17.07 2021
  
−
[[File:Legover.jpg|600px|File:Legover.jpg]]
+
Route 6 – '''Amach Arais'''  Severe.
  
−
'''CRAZY GAME OF POKER''' E3 6a<br />''Cian Kearns, Brian Bateson, 8/9/2014 (practiced on top-rope)<br />''Climb the slightly overhanging arete to the right of "Hippy to Yuppy" staying mainly on the face. The crux is getting your feet onto the obvious, hollow-sounding flake around one third height. Protection is poor after halfway. [Headpoint] (Green line in pic below denotes actual route)
+
Start immediately right of Black Corner directly below the obvious overhung chimney in the Left Bulge high above. Climb directly to the chimney and through this on good jugs.
  
−
[[File:Crazy_game_of_poker.jpg|200px]]
+
B. Walker, G. Galligan 30.08.2021.
  
−
'''ARETHUSA''' VS 5a
+
Route 7 - '''Indíreach'''. V. Diff.
  
−
''B Watts, N Callendar, 12th June 1999''.
+
Start in short double corner (with dinky thread belay) 5m right of Black Corner, then jink right and left up cracks to finish up on the right side of the Left Bulge.
  
−
An early attempt on the poker arete. Pull your way up the arete for 3m (and no sneaky bridging over to Dolmen Corner either!). Swing right around the arete and move up to reach a ledge. Finish diagonally rightwards up easier cracks.
+
David Walsh, Gerry Galligan 28.08 2021
−
[[File:Arethusa 2.jpg|none|thumb|388x388px|Arethusa location|alt=]]
 
  
−
'''DOLMEN CORNER''' HS 4b<br />''unknown''<br />The obvious corner crack left of Ballyryan Dasher has been climbed for years but never recorded, It's worthwhile and I think a grading of HS 4b would be accurate, I'm not aware of any local names for it but something like 'Dolmen corner' would be keeping in with tradition and the environment&nbsp;! - Barry Watts.
+
Route 8 - '''Díreach'''.  Mild Severe.
  
−
'''INTERVIEW WITH A JELLYFISH''' VS<br />''K Cooper Oct 1994 (first recorded)''<br />''R. Kernan, S. Oakes 14/7/2013''<br />A slightly eliminate but good line which takes the bulging corner 1m left of Ballyryan Dasher (i.e. Where you generally have your right foot). Plenty of bridging and good gear.
+
Ascend middle of slab right of short double corner, directly under prominent square cut breach in the Right Bulge above, to gain a ledge with a massive spike belay. Gain the start of the right hand diagonal crack to approach (crux) the Right Bulge and swarm airily through the overhang.
  
−
'''BALLYRYAN DASHER''' S 4a <br />This route is situated in the bay just right of the square-cut alcove and climbs the broken, wide crack.  
+
David Walsh, Gerry Galligan 29.08.2021
  
−
'''LEGOVER''' VS 4c<br />The right-hand crack in the bay. Treat the rock with care.
 
  
−
'''SCOWER BALL''' E3 5c<br />''D.Ayton, C.Harney (lead onsight) July 04''<br />An overhanging arête to the left of Crack 90. Loose rock at the top and no gear past mid height, medium wires in a thin crack up to that point. A NO star route but a route non-the-less.
+
Looking upwards from the start of ''Díreach'' to the square cut breach in the Right Bulge
  
−
'''CRACK 90''' E3 6a<br />''D. Johnson, August 1988.''<br />Climbs the overhanging thin crack left of Elvis Who?
+
Airily swarming the ''Díreach'' breach in the Right Bulge
  
−
'''ELVIS WHO?''' HVS 5a<br />''D. O Sullivan, April 1986.''<br />Several metres right of the bay is a right-trending wide crack. This is climbed to the top.
+
Route 9 – '''Imeall an Anscoilt Uachtar''' V. Diff.
  
−
[[File:ElvisWho.jpg|RTENOTITLE]]
+
Climb the right hand edge of the upper Middle Buttress.  Technically easy but psychologically challenging.  Hardest move is to make a start – ascend the crack corner which is narrow at first, and which as it widens, the cautious may well keep somewhat left while thrill seekers might stick right.  Belay on huge airy block.
  
−
'''MR PRESIDENT''' VS 5a<br />''A. McDaniel, S. Klaver, 11/4/96.''<br />The crack right of Elvis Who?. Climb the crack and move left to the arete and finish up the crack above the overhang.
+
David Walsh, Gerry Galligan 30.08.2021
  
−
'''Is Anyone In The Jacks''' HS 4b/c<br />''R. Dalton, B. Walsh, 27/01/11.''<br />The obvious crackline 3m right of 'Mr President.' Varied climbing, well protected
+
The start of ''Imeall an Anscoilt Uachtar''
  
−
<br />
+
Looking back down ''Imeall an Anscoilt Uachtar.''
 +
 
 +
'''The North Buttress'''
 +
 
 +
The North Buttress mainly faces west but also south, where the Ramp and also a lower ramp turn inwards / east.  The west face is an extensive slab, where are most of the routes, while one route takes a south facing crack / corner line around the corner.
 +
 
 +
'''Gran Gris Traverse S'''  25m *
 +
 
 +
Starts at the left-hand end of the west facing wall, near the top of the descent ramp, taking a rising, right-ward trending fault line.  Follow this line across the wall, L to R.  A ledge with and partially broken section of lighter-toned wall denotes midway.  Delicate moves to continue, before passing two small corner sections to finish on the ramp, approximately three-quarters of the wall across.
 +
 
 +
G. Galligan, Adele Fox 17/07/2021
 +
 
 +
 
 +
Gran Gris Traverse
 +
 
 +
'''Ciervo Volante''' VDiff 25m
 +
 
 +
Takes a direct line 3m from the right-hand end of the wall. 
 +
 
 +
Climb up to the wide left-trending ledge.  Continue on good features and holds to the top. Good protection.
 +
 
 +
G. Galligan, Adele Fox 17/07/2021
 +
 
 +
'''Shipwreck Scramble'''    V. Diff. 20m
 +
 
 +
Scramble with caution from the foot of the descent ramp around to the south facing part of the cliff and almost immediately lies a prominent  left facing corner, above which a crack steeply accesses another even more prominent left facing corner above.  Crux is the crack between the two corners.  Nice sitting belay to start.  Finishes at Base Camp.
 +
 
 +
C. Peppard, D. Walsh 17/07/2021
 +
 
 +
'''Corner Craic.''' HS 4b 20m
 +
 
 +
Start at the cracked left facing corner.
 +
 
 +
Climb the corner with difficulty to gain the slab above.
 +
 
 +
Follow this on good holds to the top.
 +
 
 +
B. Walker, W. Blanchfield 17/07/2021
 +
 
 +
===='''An Uaich Bhuí - Aghaidh Ó Dheas'''====
 +
This area was poetically named The Petrified Wave Cliff by climbers<display_map zoom="16" type="satellite">54.297945, -10.00626~The Petrified Wave Cliff</display_map>'''From the car park follow the loop walk until it breaks left, head along this until you meet a bay on the left. Keeping the bay to your left walk and scramble to the furthest point of the head land.'''
 +
 
 +
'''1. The break'''  HVS 5a 10 meters
 +
 
 +
The first crack encountered when entering the wave. Easy climbing to where the wall kicks out then jug pulling to the top.
 +
 
 +
H. Hennessy, J. Hennessy 19/6/2021
 +
 
 +
'''2.Wipe out''' E1 5b 12 meters
 +
 
 +
Start directly below the second crack, move right at half height to a huge jug then continue direct up a short groove to top.
 +
 
 +
H. Hennessy (unseconded) 19/6/2021
 +
 
 +
'''3.Cutback''' E2 5c 14meters
 +
 
 +
Start just left of a small right facing corner, join wipe out until the crack runs right follow this with increasing difficulty.
 +
 
 +
H.Hennessy (unseconded) 19/6/2021
 +
 
 +
'''4.THE BEST WAVE IN MAYO''' E4 6a 15 meters
 +
 
 +
''Mick Walsh, unseconded, 27/08/2011 (Practiced on toprope)''
 +
 
 +
This route follows the continous crack at the left end of this incredible cliff.
 +
 
 +
Climb the line of the crack also using positive holds on the face. A bit runout, a class route.
 +
 
 +
==='''An Uaich Bhuí - Aill Theas'''===
 +
This area has not yet been written up<br />

Revision as of 00:27, 14 January 2022

This page is a work in progress

Leithinis an Mhuirthead (the Mullet Peninsula)—also known as an Mhuirthead ( the Mullet) —is a peninsula in the barony of Iorras (Erris) in the Gaelteacht in County Mayo. It consists of a large promontory connected to the mainland at Béal an Mhuirthead (Belmullet) by a narrow isthmus. At its northern end is the townland of Gleann Lára and all the climbs listed here are in that townland as is Ceann Iorras (Erris Head).

Starting from American Street in Béal an Mhuirhead continue north straight on L1201 for 3km and then turn left onto a minor road just after a sharp right bend. After another 1.6km turn right at a T-junction. At the next T-junction at the top of a small hill after 1200m make a V turn left. Follow this road to where it ends at parking at Gleann Lara on the shore of An Siolar (Danish Cellar).


Danish Cellar

The routes described below are located on big slabs just east of the car park at Danish Cellar (OS .5 sheet 6, F 708 395) near Erris Head in the Belmullet Peninsula, North Mayo. There is great potential for quality new routes in the area.

There are three principal areas of slabs (see Figure 3. New Climbs '82), all west-facing and located on ill-defined headlands. The top of the first area of slabs is visible from the car park at Danish Cellar and is characterised by the presence of green lichen and a vertical to overhanging headwall. They are reached by crossing a small steep-sided valley and stream adjacent to the car park. The second area of slabs is only a short distance further east and is characterised by large areas of featureless black rock. The third area of slabs is further east again (about 15 minutes walk from the car park). On the right there is a large black slab characterised by white speckles. Left of this the slabs are more complex with cracks and overhangs, but a long leftward-trending crack is characteristic.

The only belays possible on top are wooden or metal stakes, which can easily be driven into the soft bog. The slabs are composed of psammite, a metamorphosed sandstone, and provide extremely unusual climbing in a magnificent situation.


FREAGHILLAUN 43m HVS 4c
T. Ryan, S. MacGerailt, P. Breen. 10/9/1989
The centre of the crag is split by an obvious dirty groove, usually seeping. This route takes the broad slab left of the groove and finishes up an obvious crack in the steep headwall. A band of overhangs traverses across the bottom half of the slabs. Belay on a small ledge below the dirty groove at the left-hand side of the widest part of the overhangs.

HELLSFIRE 43m E1 5a
T. Ryan, S. MacGerailt, P. Breen. 10/9/1989
This route starts as for Freaghillaun and takes the slab between the dirty groove and Pathfinder. Start at the base of the dirty groove at the left edge of the widest part of the overhang. Move right across the slab above the wide overhang to a ledge at the base of a vegetated groove. Continue up rightwards on steepening lichenous rock to a vague diagonal crack, hidden in the lichen and climb directly up the overhanging wall above on increasingly large holds to finish at a cleaned ledge at the top. Excellent exhilarating climbing.

PATHFINDER 43m HVS
T. Ryan, O. Jacob. 1/12/1982
The green lichenous slabs visible from the car park are best viewed from a small promontory just opposite the slab. They are bordered on the right side by a prominent arête and a band of stepwise overhangs crosses the slab from right to left. This route takes the broad slab left of the groove and finishes up an obvious crack in the steep headwall. A band of overhangs traverses across the bottom half of the slabs. Belay on a small ledge below the dirty groove at the left-hand side of the widest part of the overhangs. Pathfinder takes the slab on the right of the dirty groove.Move up left over the overhang. Continue leftwards, up the lichenous slab to reach the crack near the top. Climb steeply up this. Poor protection. Stake belay.

CLEO 43m HVS 4c
T. Ryan, E. Hernstadt, S. Gallwey. 6/3/1983<br> This route takes a thin crack in the slab just left of the arête, about 7m. right of Pathfinder. Towards the top it climbs the vertical headwall just right of the final groove of Pathfinder. Abseil down and belay on a small ledge below the overlap and 1m. left of the arête. Climb up to the overlap and gain the slab above. Ascend the thin crack until it runs out and up right to a small ledge just left of the arête and below a small overlap. Step up and follow holds left until it is possible to move back right to a deep diagonal crack below the steeper headwall. Hand-traverse left to below a short thin black crack. Climb steeply past the crack and trend up left (avoiding easy ground on the left) to quartz veins. Continue up steeply, trending left, to the top of the groove of Pathfinder. The top of this route offers very strenuous and spectacular, if somewhat contrived, climbing. Small friends and tricams necessary to protect the top section of the route.

SEA QUEEN 43m VS 4b
T. Ryan, S. MacGearailt, P. Breen. 10/9/1989
Takes the obvious arête bordering the right-hand side of the crag. Start as for Cleo on a ledge below the overhang at the bottom of the arête. Avoid the overhang by first moving right and then left above it. Climb pleasantly up the left side of the arête to a small ledge below a small overlap (shared with Cleo). Step right onto the arête and up this to a ledge with suspect rock below an overhanging groove. Climb the groove on large holds to the top. (Very little protection on the arête).

The next route is on the third area of slabs

SKYLARK 76m HS 3c <br>O. Jacob, S. Gallwey. 27/3/1982<br> This route takes the obvious left-trending diagonal crack on the third area of slabs east of Danish Cellar. Abseil down to a palatial ledge just below an overhang (wooden stake in place; it may be rotten). The climb provides magnificent situations and exposure for the grade. 1. 43m. . Traverse leftwards around the overhang and then up and right to the crack. Follow this to a belay. 2. 43m. Follow the crack and jugs almost to the top. Avoid the grassy finish by traversing left to huge holds on an arête. Stake belay in place.

An Uaich Bhuí - Aill Thuaidh

Access is 20 minutes or so westwards on foot across fields and open land from the roadhead on the shore of An Siolar (Danish Cellar).

Aill thuaidh layout.jpg


This is a west facing sea cliff about 40m high divided by two enormous vertical fault-lines or chasms into three distinct buttresses – Left, Middle (currently by far the most developed) and Right. A ramp divides all three buttresses into upper and lower tiers. The ramp runs from top left of the North Buttress F695-408 gradually downwards to about mid height where it reaches the Middle Buttress, remains horizontal across the Middle Buttress F695-407, and then rises gradually upwards to top right of the South Buttress F495-406. It is not possible to get from the Middle to the right buttress at ramp level.

Access to the climbing is by the Ramp, from the north end for the North Buttress and Middle Buttress, from the south for the South Buttress. The Middle Buttress is accessible with a little care, but only from the left or northern end. The Ramp is utterly impassable as between the Middle Buttress and the South Buttress. Abseiling is also relevant where some may prefer to leave a fixed abseil in position to facilitate (for instance) multiple parties accessing multiple climbs on the upper Middle Buttress, in preference to the walk around. The one and only climb (at time of writing) on the Middle Lower Buttress below the Ramp is accessible only by abseil from the Ramp, and the same for the sole route below the Ramp on the South Buttress.

Base Camp is a matter of choice, but the Ramp on North Buttress, just where the other Buttresses come into view, has become popular.

Climbing on the North Buttress is accessed easily by scrambling steeply down a lower ramp from top left, starting at much the same position as the Ramp itself.

All directions are given as though looking at the rock from seaward.

The South Buttress

The South Buttress has just three climbs as of September 2021, two recent easy west facing routes above the Ramp and a much earlier in time south facing E4 below it. The west facing climbing area above the Ramp is not particularly well supplied with readily identifiable features, but there are three discernible left facing corners and the two grade Diff routes take the leftmost and rightmost of these.

Details are awaited.

THE BEST WAVE IN MAYO E4 6a 15m

Mick Walsh, unseconded, 27/08/2011 (Practiced on toprope)

This route follows the continuous crack at the left end of the south facing section of this incredible cliff below the Ramp. Climb the line of the crack also using positive holds on the face. A big runout, a class route.

The Middle Buttress

The Middle Buttress boasts ten climbs at this time, nine above and one below the Ramp. The climb (Claudine) below the Ramp takes the distinct crack line over by the right hand edge of the buttress, as follows.

Claudine MS 22m **

Takes the distinctive and direct crack at the right-hand end of the lower wall, to the Ramp. Excellent protection throughout.

G. Galligan, B. Walker. 30/08/2021

The upper section is complex.


The Middle Buttress above the Ramp is divided vertically into two equal sections left and right of an eye catching black coloured classic layback corner (“the Black Corner”), and horizontally into about equal upper and lower sections by a faint horizontal fault line just above the level of the top of the Black Corner. The left section runs from the northern of the two chasms towards the Black Corner, the predominant features at lower level of which are an arched recess (the Arched Recess) and a slab between it and the Black Corner, each topped by a smooth triangular slab bounded on the right by steeper ground and then a shallow gully. The right section runs from the Black Corner all the way to the southern impassable chasm, in the upper level of which are two prominent bulges, the left one (the Left Bulge) with a shallow a chimney in the middle and the right one (the Right Bulge) having a deep crack penetrating a prominent square cut in the overhang. Each bulge is above an associated diagonal crack rising from bottom left.

Route 1 – Céim suas Severe.

Start two metres left of Arched Recess. Gain the overlap at its lowest point. Climb the slab above to a recess, follow this to the top.

B. Walker, W. Blanchfield 29.08.2021

Route 2 – Céim ar Chlé HS

  1. Climb the crack in the right corner of the Arched Recess to its roof, and escape left onto the slab above. Follow the fault line directly to the terrace.

2. Climb the obvious thin crack to a short chimney and climb this to the top.

B. Walker, W. Blanchfield (Alt. Leads) 28.08.2021 4b, 4a

Route 3 - San Nicolas VS (4c, 4b) 30m ***

1. Start just right of the Recessed Arch. Massive thread belay to begin. Climb the outside arête, which trends leftwards, making delicate moves to gain the wide ledge above.

2. At a shallow niche, climb the crack which links to another foot-niche. Then continue up the wall directly to the top, utilising the cracks en route.

G. Galligan, D. Walsh. 29/08/2021

Route 4 - Santiago HS 4b 30m **

Starts in the centre of the wall, 3m left of the Black Corner. Climb the thin cracks to gain the equivalent level of the wide ledge above. Avoiding the wide ledge, move up the short broken wall to gain the prominent triangular alcove. Climb out of the alcove, taking the crack above to finish.

G. Galligan, D. Walsh. 28/08/2021

Route 5 – Black Corner VS 4c

Climb the corner, exiting right at top, then move up and left to good belay ledges and continue to top.

Paddy O’Brien, Christina Tan 17.07 2021

Route 6 – Amach Arais Severe.

Start immediately right of Black Corner directly below the obvious overhung chimney in the Left Bulge high above. Climb directly to the chimney and through this on good jugs.

B. Walker, G. Galligan 30.08.2021.

Route 7 - Indíreach. V. Diff.

Start in short double corner (with dinky thread belay) 5m right of Black Corner, then jink right and left up cracks to finish up on the right side of the Left Bulge.

David Walsh, Gerry Galligan 28.08 2021

Route 8 - Díreach. Mild Severe.

Ascend middle of slab right of short double corner, directly under prominent square cut breach in the Right Bulge above, to gain a ledge with a massive spike belay. Gain the start of the right hand diagonal crack to approach (crux) the Right Bulge and swarm airily through the overhang.

David Walsh, Gerry Galligan 29.08.2021


Looking upwards from the start of Díreach to the square cut breach in the Right Bulge

Airily swarming the Díreach breach in the Right Bulge

Route 9 – Imeall an Anscoilt Uachtar V. Diff.

Climb the right hand edge of the upper Middle Buttress. Technically easy but psychologically challenging. Hardest move is to make a start – ascend the crack corner which is narrow at first, and which as it widens, the cautious may well keep somewhat left while thrill seekers might stick right. Belay on huge airy block.

David Walsh, Gerry Galligan 30.08.2021

The start of Imeall an Anscoilt Uachtar

Looking back down Imeall an Anscoilt Uachtar.

The North Buttress

The North Buttress mainly faces west but also south, where the Ramp and also a lower ramp turn inwards / east. The west face is an extensive slab, where are most of the routes, while one route takes a south facing crack / corner line around the corner.

Gran Gris Traverse S 25m *

Starts at the left-hand end of the west facing wall, near the top of the descent ramp, taking a rising, right-ward trending fault line. Follow this line across the wall, L to R. A ledge with and partially broken section of lighter-toned wall denotes midway. Delicate moves to continue, before passing two small corner sections to finish on the ramp, approximately three-quarters of the wall across.

G. Galligan, Adele Fox 17/07/2021


Gran Gris Traverse

Ciervo Volante VDiff 25m

Takes a direct line 3m from the right-hand end of the wall.

Climb up to the wide left-trending ledge. Continue on good features and holds to the top. Good protection.

G. Galligan, Adele Fox 17/07/2021

Shipwreck Scramble V. Diff. 20m

Scramble with caution from the foot of the descent ramp around to the south facing part of the cliff and almost immediately lies a prominent left facing corner, above which a crack steeply accesses another even more prominent left facing corner above. Crux is the crack between the two corners. Nice sitting belay to start. Finishes at Base Camp.

C. Peppard, D. Walsh 17/07/2021

Corner Craic. HS 4b 20m

Start at the cracked left facing corner.

Climb the corner with difficulty to gain the slab above.

Follow this on good holds to the top.

B. Walker, W. Blanchfield 17/07/2021

An Uaich Bhuí - Aghaidh Ó Dheas

This area was poetically named The Petrified Wave Cliff by climbers

Loading map...

From the car park follow the loop walk until it breaks left, head along this until you meet a bay on the left. Keeping the bay to your left walk and scramble to the furthest point of the head land.

1. The break HVS 5a 10 meters

The first crack encountered when entering the wave. Easy climbing to where the wall kicks out then jug pulling to the top.

H. Hennessy, J. Hennessy 19/6/2021

2.Wipe out E1 5b 12 meters

Start directly below the second crack, move right at half height to a huge jug then continue direct up a short groove to top.

H. Hennessy (unseconded) 19/6/2021

3.Cutback E2 5c 14meters

Start just left of a small right facing corner, join wipe out until the crack runs right follow this with increasing difficulty.

H.Hennessy (unseconded) 19/6/2021

4.THE BEST WAVE IN MAYO E4 6a 15 meters

Mick Walsh, unseconded, 27/08/2011 (Practiced on toprope)

This route follows the continous crack at the left end of this incredible cliff.

Climb the line of the crack also using positive holds on the face. A bit runout, a class route.

An Uaich Bhuí - Aill Theas

This area has not yet been written up

Retrieved from "http://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Ballyryan&oldid=2959"