Difference between pages "Oysterhaven" and "Luggala"

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[http://www.mountaineering.ie/news/viewdetails.asp?ID=363 Printed guidebook available here]
  
This information is taken from New Climbs 1978.<br>
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The granite cliffs of Luggala are located on the eastern side of the Wicklow mountain massif. The cliffs rise imposingly above the western shores of Lough Tay in the valley of the Cloghoge River. There is a fine view of the crag from the Sally Gap road (R759) across the lake. The nearest urban centre is Roundwood, about 6 km away to the southeast.
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====Approach====
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Luggala is nearer to Dublin than Glendalough, about a 30 - 40 minute drive south of the city.  Probably the quickest approach from Dublin is via the Military Road (R115) southward to Sally Gap. There is a regular bus service (St. Kevin's Bus) to Roundwood which is also served by Wicklow Local Link 183 Wicklow to Glendalough route. Camping is not permitted in the vicinity of the crag which is located on a privately owned estate. There is a camp-site in Roundwood and the climbing huts in Glendalough are within easy reach for those with cars. The nearest youth hostels are in Knockree to the north and Glendalough to the south.
  
'''Oysterhaven''' (near Kinsale)<br>
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There are two possible approaches to the crag from the roads.
Approaching the area from Carrigaline, go through Nohoval and take the first turn on the L, following a cul-de-sac which leads, after two miles, to a farmhouse. There is a track from the farmhouse to the cliff. The climbs are located where the track meets the cliff, and are close together. Easy descent (leaving the climbs on the R) to a rocky platform.
 
  
From this platform R to L:
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The shortest and most direct approach crosses the moorland plateau from the Military Road to the northwest of the crag. Cars may be parked at Bearnabeg at a layby (O 138 088) on the right (west) side of the road, 2.5 km south of Sally Gap. Cross the road to an eroded walking path. From this point Fancy Mountain (595m)is visible 2 km to the southeast. In the same general direction a low rounded hill can be clearly seen about 1 km away, in front of and somewhat to the left of Fancy.
  
'''1. Corner'''    30ft.  Diff.<br>
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Follow the path in an southeast direction to the top of this low hill. Continue along the path for another 300 - 400m before bearing off left in an ESE direction, contouring along the hill for over 500m until the top of H Buttress is reached. From here easy gullies lead down either side of the Buttress or alternatively an obvious path leads off leftwards to the top of North Gully and North Buttress about 200m away. Alternatively you can spurn the "shortcut" to the left and follow the main track to the top of Fancy and then left around the top of the cliffs. This is longer and gains more height than the "shortcut" but involves much less hard work.
''P. Long, W. Gregor. March 1978.''<br>
 
There is a tricky move on small holds at the start, the rest is easy.
 
  
'''2. Foam Chimney'''  45ft.   V. Diff.<br>
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This approach to the crag takes about 35-40 minutes and traverses flat to gently sloping terrain. Deep heather may make the going tedious in places and during broken weather the ground becomes wet underfoot. A map and compass should be carried on this upland approach as it is not unusual for low cloud to descend, making route-finding difficult on the return journey over largely featureless terrain. Despite these potential problems this is now the recommended approach as it passes through open uninhabited moorland rather than the fenced land crossed in the next approach with its possible attendant difficulties of access.
''C. O'Leary, G. O'Regan.  March 1978.''<br>
 
Easy climbing for 30 ft., leading to a little ledge. Above this the chimney is vertical, with small holds. The crux is getting off the ledge. A little ledge on the R wall may be used to step across the chimney. Good protection.
 
  
'''3. Deep Chimney'''  55ft.    S.<br>
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The above description was written in 1993 when that guidebook was being published. Since then walkers have created a major trackway from Barnabeg to a newly created muck field at the top of Fancy Mountain where you can join the track around the crest of the cliffs. As a result it is now easier and quicker to continue on this track than to undertake the tedious traverse left 300m - 400m after the first low hill. The same applies on the return journey.
''G. O'Regan, C. O'Leary  March 1978.''<br>
 
A narrow deep chimney for about 25ft. leads onto an open area for about 10ft. to a ledge. The crux is getting off this ledge for the next 10 ft.(vertical). Steep to the top. Going up the R wall is easier near the top. Poor protection.
 
  
And here is the guidebook:
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The approach from the east is from the Roundwood - Sally Gap road at the Luggala Gate Piers (O 172 065). Follow the private road downhill (vehicles not allowed) for about 1 km to a hairpin bend and gate-lodge. From here it was previously possible to cross a fence and follow a grassy track to a river crossing at the southern outlet from Lough Tay. This short cut is now strictly prohibited and instead one must follow the road down to just beyond the bridge on the Cloghoge River. Leave the road at the stile and contour back northwards along the lower flanks of the hill until the south end of the lake is reached. A track winds along near the lake shore to the boulder field below the cliffs. This approach is circuitous and it also involves an uphill slog on the return journey at the end of the day. As a reward for this it gives very impressive views of the cliffs and makes it easy for the first time visitor to form an impression of their layout. It takes about 1 hour.
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====Crag layout====
  
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'''See overlapping pictures which illustrate what is described below at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide G Buttress, H Buttress, Main cliff left, Main cliff central, main cliff right]'''
  
[[File:image10.jpg|900px]]
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The cliffs of Luggala are complex, being broken by large gullies and broad grassy terraces. They are in fact divided into a number of distinct crags which are best described from south to north.
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To the south of the main cliffs there is a large circular basin rimmed high up by a series of generally small buttresses named A to G from south to north or from left to right as one faces them. So far only G Buttress, the largest of these, has yielded climbs and these mostly in recent times. About 200m to the north of G Buttress and somewhat tucked away above the main cliffs is the more substantial H Buttress(Creag Eidhnean). It has two faces, one facing roughly south and the other west. There are easy descent gullies on each side of the Buttress and these merge into a scree and boulder covered slope known as South Gully. Adjoining each of these upper gullies are minor buttresses which have a number of short climbs.
  
[[File:image11.jpg|900px]]
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Since G and H Buttress are located at the head of the basin and higher up than the main cliffs they are readily accessible from the plateau route from the Military Road. They offer generally short routes good for an evening visit or a short climbing day.
  
[[File:image12.jpg|900px]]
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Directly below H Buttress and to the right or north of South Gully is the imposing Woody Wall. At the lower end of Woody Wall is Terrace Corner, so called because it is the point of access to the long grassy break known as Conifer Terrace. Above the Terrace and to the north or right of Woody Wall is the mainly slabby Conifer Buttress/Creag Cónaiséareach. The scree slopes of South Gully continue down from Terrace Corner for a short distance adjoining the left-hand end of South Buttress/Creag Fásra which lies below the level of Conifer Terrace.
  
[[File:image13.jpg|900px]]
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To the right or north of Conifer Buttress/Creag Cónaiséareach and South Buttress/Creag Fásra is the Main Face, the centre piece of the whole crag, a most impressive feature with its steep exposed rock and great overhangs. Below the Main Face there are somewhat vegetated slabs, mostly easy angled. These are the Main Face Slabs, separated from the Main Face above by a grassy rake.<br>
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Further right beyond the Main Face and separated from it by the deep gash of North Gully (Great Gully) is Creag Thuaidh or North Buttress. This consists essentially of three tiers of rock separated by grassy terraces.
  
==OCR of the above Guidebook==
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====Climbing notes====
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The climbs at Luggala require a wide variety of techniques ranging from delicate footwork on slabs to strenuous arm-pulling on vertical walls and overhangs. The rock is somewhat coarser in texture than that of Glendalough and where it is free from lichen or moss the frictional qualities are excellent. The routes tend to be much less direct than those at Glendalough, not usually following obvious crack lines. A twisting series of grooves, ramps, corners, short walls and overhangs are what one can expect to encounter. The zig-zag nature of many routes means that double ropes and skill in using them are necessary to counter the problem of frictional drag. Route finding also calls for a careful, studied approach. The climbing is typically not too sustained with welcome rest points alternating with frantic bursts of activity. Protection varies, frequently adequate or even good but one also regularly encounters climbs where the protection is sparse or marginal. Friends, especially the small or medium sizes, help a lot as does the cunning use of whatever protection elements are available.
  
OYSTERHAVEN                        Map. Ref. 704-485
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While it is true that some of the routes are marred by vegetation, this is mostly true of the earlier easier climbs which often follow gully lines where seepage may also be an additional problem. The more modern routes are much less affected in this way. The cliffs are widely affected by seepage in winter and some routes may become wet for a time during spells of poor weather in the summer climbing season; these routes do, however, dry out quite quickly after a rainy spell in marked contrast to climbs on the Upper Cliffs at Glendalough which may require a few weeks of settled weather to come into condition.
                                    O.S. 1/2" Sheet No 25
 
  
Compiled by P. Long.,
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====Links to Route descriptions====
  
Oysterhaven is a very quiet scenic bay with 2 coves filled with small boats, 16 miles south of Cork city.  The climbs are situated on a small promontory on the South Eastern tip of a
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*[[Luggala G & H Buttresses]]
broad headland less than a mile from the end of the surfaced road. The rock here is mainly carboniferous slates and grits end some climbs have a light coating of lichen but, in the dry, this has adhesive qualities every bit as good as the clean rock. The belays on top are minimal and in a few places the rock is fragile. As there have been very few second ascents the grades are only approximate. These climbs were done in '77 - '78.
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*[[Luggala Woody Wall & Conifer Buttress (Creag Conaisreach)]]
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*[[Luggala South Buttress (Creag Fasra)]]
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*[[Luggala Main Face]]
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*[[Luggala North Buttress (Creag Thuaidh)]]
  
SOUTH WEST CLIFF
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====Map====
 
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<googlemap version="0.9" lat="53.121538" lon="-6.2677" zoom="13">
1.     Immobility, S. as 6m.                   
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53.1075, -6.27416
P. Long (Solo)
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Luggala
Start 3 metres to right of normal descent route.  Follow line
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</googlemap>
of very thin crock.  Long reach on advantage.
 
 
 
2.    Lectern: S. 6m.                         
 
C. O'Lestr_(Soloi
 
Start 7 metro to right of "Immobility".    Over slight bulge
 
to top, on smell holds.
 
 
 
3.    Stepladders V.O.8..                     
 
S. O'Riordan (Solo)
 
Stotts Obvious stepped shallow gully, 2 metres to right of "Lectern'.
 
From foot of enelf, up awkward steps to stance.  Final smell
 
chimney can be bridged or climbed directly.
 
 
 
4.    Sockets V.O. 9m.                       
 
P. Long (Solo)
 
Start 3 metres to right of 'Stepladder".  Climb onto large ledge
 
to Plot sized Pocket stove eye level and continue on good grips.
 
 
 
5.    Socket-To-Re: V.D. 8m.                  C' "!fil-1!2121.
 
Start at foot of centre of largo detached block immediately to the
 
right of alternative way down beside 'Socket..  Straight up block
 
and thin, up wall.
 
 
 
6.   Yoe-Xnee-U01 O. Om.                     
 
S. d'alorden (Solo;
 
 
 
Start bees of block, right aids. follow edge of block to far egg
 
and tint's climb either aide of corner.
 
 
 
7.    Coullibrlumt V.O. las.                   
 
p. Long (Solo)
 
Start base or block, right side. Layback diagonal crock to right
 
and climb straight up to top.
 
 
 
8.    Metestebles M.S. as 10m.                 
 
S. d'Alorden and C. O'Lsery
 
Start 2 metres to right of "Couilibrium", follow thin Crock up
 
slightly bulging wall and than directly to top. Strenuous.
 
 
 
9.    Highway: V.D. 11m.                       
 
C. O'Leary and S. O'Riordan
 
Start 2 metres to right or "Metastable". follow crock diagonally
 
to right and bridge straight up final small corner.
 
 
 
10.  81-1n-The-Sky: V.0. 10m.                  C. O'Leary (Solo)
 
Start from top of diagonal crack of *Highway".  follow ramp
 
ascending gradually to right and then climb straight u0.
 
 
 
11.  Bettenbergi M.S. 20m.                    O. LOng and
 
                                                3. Down_
 
Start: This is the first climb on Wept facing wall, descend dm from
 
"Highway" to lower shelf.
 
(i) Om Gradual *scent up to mentleshelf leading to platform
 
(11) 6m Bridge up gully at back of platform and emerge onto shelf
 
          on right via crack
 
(111) 6m Along shelf and climb corner on left. alternative shorter
 
          corner on right.
 
 
 
12.  Aingroad: 11.5. lgm.                      C. O'Leary and
 
                                                O. Long
 
Start from platform after mantleshelf move of silsttentorg".
 
(1) en nova out right around block and follow esconalng ramp to
 
          good stance.
 
(ii) am Bridge or climb corner on tort to join seettenbere rain
 
          on final shelf.
 
 
 
 
 
13.  Way—Out: S. 6m or 9m            P. Long and
 
                                      C. O'Leary
 
Stitt from High—Water mark, immediately below Matt
 
of "Oattenbere. Climb steep well to ledge end
 
mantleshelf to join "Ringroad" or follow ledge to jolt
 
"Eagles Nest".
 
 
 
14.  Eagles Nest: H.S. it 20m.        P. long,
 
                                      J. Oomoney and
 
                                      C. O'Lefry
 
Start from H.W. mark at foot of mein chimney.
 
(1) 12m Straight up chimney with 2 spike belays and
 
          exit neer top on right, up exposed •0000 to good
 
          stance
 
      Om follow vertical crack to top.
 
 
 
15.  Stretcher: H.S. 4a 23m.          P. Long and
 
                                      J. Domoney
 
Start immediately to right of base of chimney.
 
(i) 6m Up on good holds over projecting block to large
 
          *heir on right.
 
(11) 9m Up well on right delicately and step over left
 
          1 metre and up wall again to good stance on left.
 
          Strong fingers and arms needed.
 
(iii) Om Step around block into scoop on right and follow
 
          diagonal ramp to left
 
 
 
16.  Nose Cone: M.S. 20m.            Po Long and
 
                                      J. Oomonev
 
Start immediately to right of "Stretcher".
 
(1)  14m Straight up to large shelf on good steps end
 
          climb to left up exposed erste and continue to
 
            right to good ■tsoce.
 
(ii) 6m Climb onto block to left of scoop end then across
 
          it and finish straight up.
 
 
 
17.  Ambulation: V.O. gm.            P. Long o
 
Start rrom H.W. mark on right side of large cave.  Climb
 
slab at reasonable angle on small holds and finish up beside
 
top of large corner.
 
 
�18. Locomotion: V.D. 9m.
 
P. LontiSolol
 
Start from H.W. mark, just to right of "Ambulation".
 
Follow
 
line inside small corner up slab on small holds.
 
 
Start Block at NW. mark to right of 
 
across end up into crack, awkward. 
 
top.
 
P. long (s0121
 
"Locomotion".
 
Step
 
Follow line of crack to
 
19.
 
Black Crack: N.S. 9m.
 
20.
 
Straight Crack: H.S. Oa 10m.
 
C. Trotter and
 
- ----
 
 
 
- - - - - - - - — -
 
 
 
C. 0.Mahony
 
Start from large ledge at N.Y. mark around corner from "Black 
 
Crack". Traverse left and down 2 m into bass of large creek 
 
and then ascend using boot jams and several outside holds. 
 
Strenuous and airy.
 
21. -Smell Crack: V.D. Sm.
 
P.J.ohl.(Solo)
 
----
 
Start same ledge as "Black Crack*.
 
Climb crock direct from
 
ledge.
 
22.
 
Odyssey: S.  75m.
 
P. tong (Solo)
 
This enjoyable traverse of the West and South facing c!iffs 
 
begins at the outer corner of the cave.
 
(1) 25m Straight up smell corner to large shelf and 
 
left up exposed orate of "Nose Cone* to steno. 
 
left.
 
Bridge or climb corner on left to final
 
shelf of "Bettenberg".
 
M.S.
 
(ii) 25m Step across over gully end descend along ramp 
 
delicately to join "Pi-In-The-Sky".
 
Descend this
 
ramp and near bottom step across and follow series 
 
of small ledges until a descent to detached block 
 
can be reds.
 
S.
 
(iii) 25m Descend far side of block and follow ledge until 
 
end of face is reached.
 
V.D.
 
NORTH WEST CLIFF;
 
23.
 
Viewpoint; V.D. 17m.
 
P. Long (Solo)
 
- - - - —
 
 
 
Start at H.W. mark of cliff facing northwest, at rear of mein 
 
line of descent. Straight up corner on good holds and move 
 
onto face on final Sm to avoid bulge, more delicate here.
 
 
24. Outlook: V.O. 12m.
 
P. Long (Solo)
 
Start: Same as "Viewpoint".
 
Climb up over good steps
 
in well on right.
 
NORTH EAST CLIFF:
 
25. Hang On: D. 9m.
 
S. O'Rlorden  15010)
 
Start Sm to right of Quartz vein facing South.
 
Climb uD
 
to Use in shelf and then up crack in next block or crack on left.
 
26. Quartz Vein: M.D. 15m.
 
C. O'Leary and
 
S. O'Riorden
 
-----
 
Start: Base of large crack running diagonally to left. 
 
Straight up to where crack widens and step across to right 
 
and up quartz vein end finally diagonally to right.
 
27. Hang Up: S. 20m.
 
P. Long and
 
C. O'Leary
 
z —
 
Start: Same es "Quartz Vein".
 
Follow diagonal crack to
 
stance on left and above stance hand traverse to right and 
 
then climb straight up corner on left.
 
A TRAVERSE FROM THE BOTTOM OF THESE CLIMBS CAN BE MADE THROUGH 
 
THE CAVE, AT LOW TIDE, TO EMERGE ON THE WESTERN SIDE WHERE SOME 
 
VERY SERIOUS LOOKING CLIMBS CAN BE SEEN.
 
OPPOSITE THESE CLIMBS THERE IS ANOTHER "DIFFICULT" ROUTE TO THE 
 
TOP, UP A GRADUALLY ASCENDING GULLY.
 
THIS IS ON THE FAR SIDE
 
OF THE OVERHANGING CORNER OF THE SOUTH-EAST CLIFFS.
 
SOUTH EAST CLIFF:
 
28. Acapulco: V.O. 12m.
 
 
C. O'Leary and
 
S. O'Riordan
 
Start base of corner at southern end of cave.
 
Climb corner
 
to ledge and than move gradually left and upwards.
 
 
29. Big Chimney: S. 21m.                        P. Long and
 
 
 
                                                C. O'Leary
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Start base of V shooed large chimney at northern end of cave.
 
 
 
(i) 10m Up chimney on friction holds to smell stance on
 
 
 
        right.  Poor belay.
 
 
 
(ii) Ilm Continue up chimney
 
 
 
Variation to pitch (i): Climb flake on right side to stance.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
30. Pinnacle Route: M.S. 22m.                  P. Long end
 
 
 
                                                S. O'Riordan
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Start directly beneath overhanging pointed block 100 to right of
 
 
 
"Big Chimney".
 
 
 
(i) 10m Follow smell fault diagonally to left and then straight
 
 
 
        up to eloping platform and along to extreme left edge.
 
 
 
(ii) 12m Step out around exposed corner and climb diagonally
 
 
 
        left on good holds and then tight to finish above
 
 
 
        3m crack in smell corner.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
31. Stepped Corner: V.D. 17m.                  C. O'Leary end
 
 
 
                                                P. Lon2___
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Start 5m to right of "Pinnacle Route".
 
 
 
(1) 5m Up diagonal crack and pull through narrow gap to
 
 
 
        sloping platform.
 
 
 
(Si) 5m Up well on right to smaller platform and move delicately
 
 
 
        around to small stance on right.
 
 
 
 
 
(iii) 70 A series of 3 large steps lead to top.
 
 
 
Variation: Platforms can be avoided by going direct.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
32, Rely:ex-Vous: D. 12m.                      P. E222_(Soto%
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Start am to right of let platform of "Stepped Corner". This
 
 
 
is the normal line of descent.
 
 
 
 
 
Follow easiest line inside small corners.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
33. Hang-Out: S. 3c 12m.                        P. tong end
 
 
 
                                                C. Trotter
 
                                                  —
 
 
 
 
 
Start in corner to the left of small pool.
 
 
 
(i) 6m Slightly overhanging crack in corner to good stance.
 
 
 
(11) 6m Up wall on good holds.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
34. Hang-In: M.S. 3c 1041.                      P. Long anc
 
 
 
                                                C. O'Leary__
 
 
 
 
 
Start left edge of pool.  Bridge onto separated block eni1 •
 
 
across to small ledge end move right and then upwards.
 
Than left and upwards to final shelf of "Keyhole".
 
 
 
35. Oblivion: M.S. 3c Bm.                P. Long and
 
                                          J. Oomonez_
 
Start right edge of pool.  Climb directly to join "Hang-In"
 
and finish at 2nd shelf of "Keyhole".
 
 
 
36. Keyhole: S. lam.                      P. Long and
 
          —    —                        J. Domor_tez
 
Start immediately to right of "Oblivion".
 
(1) 341 Up small corner to small ledge.  Nice choC position
 
        in hole above eye-level.
 
(ii) Sm Up longer corner and awkward pullbver to eloping ledge.
 
(ill) 6m Gradual corner leading to ridge.
 
 
 
37. Saannech: V.D. 18m.                  C. Trotter end
 
                                          P. Loni
 
Start immediately to left of overhanging corner. Up wall
 
on good holds to large platform and then up crack in face and
 
step out left and climb ridge along crest.
 
 

Latest revision as of 21:55, 27 March 2021

Printed guidebook available here

The granite cliffs of Luggala are located on the eastern side of the Wicklow mountain massif. The cliffs rise imposingly above the western shores of Lough Tay in the valley of the Cloghoge River. There is a fine view of the crag from the Sally Gap road (R759) across the lake. The nearest urban centre is Roundwood, about 6 km away to the southeast.

Approach

Luggala is nearer to Dublin than Glendalough, about a 30 - 40 minute drive south of the city. Probably the quickest approach from Dublin is via the Military Road (R115) southward to Sally Gap. There is a regular bus service (St. Kevin's Bus) to Roundwood which is also served by Wicklow Local Link 183 Wicklow to Glendalough route. Camping is not permitted in the vicinity of the crag which is located on a privately owned estate. There is a camp-site in Roundwood and the climbing huts in Glendalough are within easy reach for those with cars. The nearest youth hostels are in Knockree to the north and Glendalough to the south.

There are two possible approaches to the crag from the roads.

The shortest and most direct approach crosses the moorland plateau from the Military Road to the northwest of the crag. Cars may be parked at Bearnabeg at a layby (O 138 088) on the right (west) side of the road, 2.5 km south of Sally Gap. Cross the road to an eroded walking path. From this point Fancy Mountain (595m)is visible 2 km to the southeast. In the same general direction a low rounded hill can be clearly seen about 1 km away, in front of and somewhat to the left of Fancy.

Follow the path in an southeast direction to the top of this low hill. Continue along the path for another 300 - 400m before bearing off left in an ESE direction, contouring along the hill for over 500m until the top of H Buttress is reached. From here easy gullies lead down either side of the Buttress or alternatively an obvious path leads off leftwards to the top of North Gully and North Buttress about 200m away. Alternatively you can spurn the "shortcut" to the left and follow the main track to the top of Fancy and then left around the top of the cliffs. This is longer and gains more height than the "shortcut" but involves much less hard work.

This approach to the crag takes about 35-40 minutes and traverses flat to gently sloping terrain. Deep heather may make the going tedious in places and during broken weather the ground becomes wet underfoot. A map and compass should be carried on this upland approach as it is not unusual for low cloud to descend, making route-finding difficult on the return journey over largely featureless terrain. Despite these potential problems this is now the recommended approach as it passes through open uninhabited moorland rather than the fenced land crossed in the next approach with its possible attendant difficulties of access.

The above description was written in 1993 when that guidebook was being published. Since then walkers have created a major trackway from Barnabeg to a newly created muck field at the top of Fancy Mountain where you can join the track around the crest of the cliffs. As a result it is now easier and quicker to continue on this track than to undertake the tedious traverse left 300m - 400m after the first low hill. The same applies on the return journey.

The approach from the east is from the Roundwood - Sally Gap road at the Luggala Gate Piers (O 172 065). Follow the private road downhill (vehicles not allowed) for about 1 km to a hairpin bend and gate-lodge. From here it was previously possible to cross a fence and follow a grassy track to a river crossing at the southern outlet from Lough Tay. This short cut is now strictly prohibited and instead one must follow the road down to just beyond the bridge on the Cloghoge River. Leave the road at the stile and contour back northwards along the lower flanks of the hill until the south end of the lake is reached. A track winds along near the lake shore to the boulder field below the cliffs. This approach is circuitous and it also involves an uphill slog on the return journey at the end of the day. As a reward for this it gives very impressive views of the cliffs and makes it easy for the first time visitor to form an impression of their layout. It takes about 1 hour.

Crag layout

See overlapping pictures which illustrate what is described below at G Buttress, H Buttress, Main cliff left, Main cliff central, main cliff right

The cliffs of Luggala are complex, being broken by large gullies and broad grassy terraces. They are in fact divided into a number of distinct crags which are best described from south to north. To the south of the main cliffs there is a large circular basin rimmed high up by a series of generally small buttresses named A to G from south to north or from left to right as one faces them. So far only G Buttress, the largest of these, has yielded climbs and these mostly in recent times. About 200m to the north of G Buttress and somewhat tucked away above the main cliffs is the more substantial H Buttress(Creag Eidhnean). It has two faces, one facing roughly south and the other west. There are easy descent gullies on each side of the Buttress and these merge into a scree and boulder covered slope known as South Gully. Adjoining each of these upper gullies are minor buttresses which have a number of short climbs.

Since G and H Buttress are located at the head of the basin and higher up than the main cliffs they are readily accessible from the plateau route from the Military Road. They offer generally short routes good for an evening visit or a short climbing day.

Directly below H Buttress and to the right or north of South Gully is the imposing Woody Wall. At the lower end of Woody Wall is Terrace Corner, so called because it is the point of access to the long grassy break known as Conifer Terrace. Above the Terrace and to the north or right of Woody Wall is the mainly slabby Conifer Buttress/Creag Cónaiséareach. The scree slopes of South Gully continue down from Terrace Corner for a short distance adjoining the left-hand end of South Buttress/Creag Fásra which lies below the level of Conifer Terrace.

To the right or north of Conifer Buttress/Creag Cónaiséareach and South Buttress/Creag Fásra is the Main Face, the centre piece of the whole crag, a most impressive feature with its steep exposed rock and great overhangs. Below the Main Face there are somewhat vegetated slabs, mostly easy angled. These are the Main Face Slabs, separated from the Main Face above by a grassy rake.
Further right beyond the Main Face and separated from it by the deep gash of North Gully (Great Gully) is Creag Thuaidh or North Buttress. This consists essentially of three tiers of rock separated by grassy terraces.

Climbing notes

The climbs at Luggala require a wide variety of techniques ranging from delicate footwork on slabs to strenuous arm-pulling on vertical walls and overhangs. The rock is somewhat coarser in texture than that of Glendalough and where it is free from lichen or moss the frictional qualities are excellent. The routes tend to be much less direct than those at Glendalough, not usually following obvious crack lines. A twisting series of grooves, ramps, corners, short walls and overhangs are what one can expect to encounter. The zig-zag nature of many routes means that double ropes and skill in using them are necessary to counter the problem of frictional drag. Route finding also calls for a careful, studied approach. The climbing is typically not too sustained with welcome rest points alternating with frantic bursts of activity. Protection varies, frequently adequate or even good but one also regularly encounters climbs where the protection is sparse or marginal. Friends, especially the small or medium sizes, help a lot as does the cunning use of whatever protection elements are available.

While it is true that some of the routes are marred by vegetation, this is mostly true of the earlier easier climbs which often follow gully lines where seepage may also be an additional problem. The more modern routes are much less affected in this way. The cliffs are widely affected by seepage in winter and some routes may become wet for a time during spells of poor weather in the summer climbing season; these routes do, however, dry out quite quickly after a rainy spell in marked contrast to climbs on the Upper Cliffs at Glendalough which may require a few weeks of settled weather to come into condition.

Links to Route descriptions

Map

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