Difference between pages "File:Derryclare east.jpg" and "Oysterhaven"

This information is taken from New Climbs 1978.

Oysterhaven (near Kinsale)
Approaching the area from Carrigaline, go through Nohoval and take the first turn on the L, following a cul-de-sac which leads, after two miles, to a farmhouse. There is a track from the farmhouse to the cliff. The climbs are located where the track meets the cliff, and are close together. Easy descent (leaving the climbs on the R) to a rocky platform.

From this platform R to L:

1. Corner 30ft. Diff.
P. Long, W. Gregor. March 1978.
There is a tricky move on small holds at the start, the rest is easy.

2. Foam Chimney 45ft. V. Diff.
C. O'Leary, G. O'Regan. March 1978.
Easy climbing for 30 ft., leading to a little ledge. Above this the chimney is vertical, with small holds. The crux is getting off the ledge. A little ledge on the R wall may be used to step across the chimney. Good protection.

3. Deep Chimney 55ft. S.
G. O'Regan, C. O'Leary March 1978.
A narrow deep chimney for about 25ft. leads onto an open area for about 10ft. to a ledge. The crux is getting off this ledge for the next 10 ft.(vertical). Steep to the top. Going up the R wall is easier near the top. Poor protection.

And here is the guidebook:

OCR of the above Guidebook

OYSTERHAVEN Map. Ref. 704-485

                                   O.S. 1/2" Sheet No 25

Compiled by P. Long.,

Oysterhaven is a very quiet scenic bay with 2 coves filled with small boats, 16 miles south of Cork city. The climbs are situated on a small promontory on the South Eastern tip of a broad headland less than a mile from the end of the surfaced road. The rock here is mainly carboniferous slates and grits end some climbs have a light coating of lichen but, in the dry, this has adhesive qualities every bit as good as the clean rock. The belays on top are minimal and in a few places the rock is fragile. As there have been very few second ascents the grades are only approximate. These climbs were done in '77 - '78.

SOUTH WEST CLIFF

1. Immobility, S. as 6m. P. Long (Solo) Start 3 metres to right of normal descent route. Follow line of very thin crock. Long reach on advantage.

2. Lectern: S. 6m. C. O'Lestr_(Soloi Start 7 metro to right of "Immobility". Over slight bulge to top, on smell holds.

3. Stepladders V.O.8.. S. O'Riordan (Solo) Stotts Obvious stepped shallow gully, 2 metres to right of "Lectern'. From foot of enelf, up awkward steps to stance. Final smell chimney can be bridged or climbed directly.

4. Sockets V.O. 9m. P. Long (Solo) Start 3 metres to right of 'Stepladder". Climb onto large ledge to Plot sized Pocket stove eye level and continue on good grips.

5. Socket-To-Re: V.D. 8m. C' "!fil-1!2121. Start at foot of centre of largo detached block immediately to the right of alternative way down beside 'Socket.. Straight up block and thin, up wall. � 6. Yoe-Xnee-U01 O. Om. S. d'alorden (Solo;

Start bees of block, right aids. follow edge of block to far egg and tint's climb either aide of corner.

7. Coullibrlumt V.O. las. p. Long (Solo) Start base or block, right side. Layback diagonal crock to right and climb straight up to top.

8. Metestebles M.S. as 10m. S. d'Alorden and

                                               C. O'Lsery

Start 2 metres to right of "Couilibrium", follow thin Crock up slightly bulging wall and than directly to top. Strenuous.

9. Highway: V.D. 11m. C. O'Leary and

                                               S. O'Riordan

Start 2 metres to right or "Metastable". follow crock diagonally to right and bridge straight up final small corner.

10. 81-1n-The-Sky: V.0. 10m. C. O'Leary (Solo) Start from top of diagonal crack of *Highway". follow ramp ascending gradually to right and then climb straight u0.

11. Bettenbergi M.S. 20m. O. LOng and

                                               3. Down_

Start: This is the first climb on Wept facing wall, descend dm from "Highway" to lower shelf. (i) Om Gradual *scent up to mentleshelf leading to platform (11) 6m Bridge up gully at back of platform and emerge onto shelf

         on right via crack

(111) 6m Along shelf and climb corner on left. alternative shorter

         corner on right.

12. Aingroad: 11.5. lgm. C. O'Leary and

                                               O. Long

Start from platform after mantleshelf move of silsttentorg". (1) en nova out right around block and follow esconalng ramp to

         good stance.

(ii) am Bridge or climb corner on tort to join seettenbere rain

         on final shelf.

13. Way—Out: S. 6m or 9m P. Long and

                                      C. O'Leary 

Stitt from High—Water mark, immediately below Matt of "Oattenbere. Climb steep well to ledge end mantleshelf to join "Ringroad" or follow ledge to jolt "Eagles Nest".

14. Eagles Nest: H.S. it 20m. P. long,

                                      J. Oomoney and 
                                      C. O'Lefry

Start from H.W. mark at foot of mein chimney. (1) 12m Straight up chimney with 2 spike belays and

         exit neer top on right, up exposed •0000 to good 
         stance
     Om follow vertical crack to top.

15. Stretcher: H.S. 4a 23m. P. Long and

                                      J. Domoney

Start immediately to right of base of chimney. (i) 6m Up on good holds over projecting block to large

         *heir on right.

(11) 9m Up well on right delicately and step over left

         1 metre and up wall again to good stance on left. 
         Strong fingers and arms needed.

(iii) Om Step around block into scoop on right and follow

         diagonal ramp to left

16. Nose Cone: M.S. 20m. Po Long and

                                      J. Oomonev

Start immediately to right of "Stretcher". (1) 14m Straight up to large shelf on good steps end

         climb to left up exposed erste and continue to 
           right to good ■tsoce.

(ii) 6m Climb onto block to left of scoop end then across

         it and finish straight up.

17. Ambulation: V.O. gm. P. Long o Start rrom H.W. mark on right side of large cave. Climb slab at reasonable angle on small holds and finish up beside top of large corner. � �18. Locomotion: V.D. 9m. P. LontiSolol Start from H.W. mark, just to right of "Ambulation". Follow line inside small corner up slab on small holds. • Start Block at NW. mark to right of across end up into crack, awkward. top. P. long (s0121 "Locomotion". Step Follow line of crack to 19. Black Crack: N.S. 9m. 20. Straight Crack: H.S. Oa 10m. C. Trotter and - ----

- - - - - - - - — -

C. 0.Mahony Start from large ledge at N.Y. mark around corner from "Black Crack". Traverse left and down 2 m into bass of large creek and then ascend using boot jams and several outside holds. Strenuous and airy. 21. -Smell Crack: V.D. Sm. P.J.ohl.(Solo)

---

Start same ledge as "Black Crack*. Climb crock direct from ledge. 22. Odyssey: S. 75m. P. tong (Solo) This enjoyable traverse of the West and South facing c!iffs begins at the outer corner of the cave. (1) 25m Straight up smell corner to large shelf and left up exposed orate of "Nose Cone* to steno. left. Bridge or climb corner on left to final shelf of "Bettenberg". M.S. (ii) 25m Step across over gully end descend along ramp delicately to join "Pi-In-The-Sky". Descend this ramp and near bottom step across and follow series of small ledges until a descent to detached block can be reds. S. (iii) 25m Descend far side of block and follow ledge until end of face is reached. V.D. NORTH WEST CLIFF; 23. Viewpoint; V.D. 17m. P. Long (Solo) - - - - —

Start at H.W. mark of cliff facing northwest, at rear of mein line of descent. Straight up corner on good holds and move onto face on final Sm to avoid bulge, more delicate here. � 24. Outlook: V.O. 12m. P. Long (Solo) Start: Same as "Viewpoint". Climb up over good steps in well on right. NORTH EAST CLIFF: 25. Hang On: D. 9m. S. O'Rlorden 15010) Start Sm to right of Quartz vein facing South. Climb uD to Use in shelf and then up crack in next block or crack on left. 26. Quartz Vein: M.D. 15m. C. O'Leary and S. O'Riorden

---

Start: Base of large crack running diagonally to left. Straight up to where crack widens and step across to right and up quartz vein end finally diagonally to right. 27. Hang Up: S. 20m. P. Long and C. O'Leary

z —

Start: Same es "Quartz Vein". Follow diagonal crack to stance on left and above stance hand traverse to right and then climb straight up corner on left. A TRAVERSE FROM THE BOTTOM OF THESE CLIMBS CAN BE MADE THROUGH THE CAVE, AT LOW TIDE, TO EMERGE ON THE WESTERN SIDE WHERE SOME VERY SERIOUS LOOKING CLIMBS CAN BE SEEN. OPPOSITE THESE CLIMBS THERE IS ANOTHER "DIFFICULT" ROUTE TO THE TOP, UP A GRADUALLY ASCENDING GULLY. THIS IS ON THE FAR SIDE OF THE OVERHANGING CORNER OF THE SOUTH-EAST CLIFFS. SOUTH EAST CLIFF: 28. Acapulco: V.O. 12m.

C. O'Leary and S. O'Riordan Start base of corner at southern end of cave. Climb corner to ledge and than move gradually left and upwards. � 29. Big Chimney: S. 21m. P. Long and

                                               C. O'Leary 

Start base of V shooed large chimney at northern end of cave.

(i) 10m Up chimney on friction holds to smell stance on

        right.   Poor belay.

(ii) Ilm Continue up chimney

Variation to pitch (i): Climb flake on right side to stance.

30. Pinnacle Route: M.S. 22m. P. Long end

                                               S. O'Riordan

Start directly beneath overhanging pointed block 100 to right of

"Big Chimney".

(i) 10m Follow smell fault diagonally to left and then straight

        up to eloping platform and along to extreme left edge.

(ii) 12m Step out around exposed corner and climb diagonally

        left on good holds and then tight to finish above 

        3m crack in smell corner.

31. Stepped Corner: V.D. 17m. C. O'Leary end

                                               P. Lon2___

Start 5m to right of "Pinnacle Route".

(1) 5m Up diagonal crack and pull through narrow gap to

        sloping platform.

(Si) 5m Up well on right to smaller platform and move delicately

        around to small stance on right.

(iii) 70 A series of 3 large steps lead to top.

Variation: Platforms can be avoided by going direct.

32, Rely:ex-Vous: D. 12m. P. E222_(Soto%

Start am to right of let platform of "Stepped Corner". This

is the normal line of descent.

Follow easiest line inside small corners.

33. Hang-Out: S. 3c 12m. P. tong end

                                               C. Trotter 
                                                 —

Start in corner to the left of small pool.

(i) 6m Slightly overhanging crack in corner to good stance.

(11) 6m Up wall on good holds.

34. Hang-In: M.S. 3c 1041. P. Long anc

                                               C. O'Leary__ 

Start left edge of pool. Bridge onto separated block eni1 • � across to small ledge end move right and then upwards. Than left and upwards to final shelf of "Keyhole".

35. Oblivion: M.S. 3c Bm. P. Long and

                                         J. Oomonez_

Start right edge of pool. Climb directly to join "Hang-In" and finish at 2nd shelf of "Keyhole".

36. Keyhole: S. lam. P. Long and

         —     —                         J. Domor_tez

Start immediately to right of "Oblivion". (1) 341 Up small corner to small ledge. Nice choC position

        in hole above eye-level.

(ii) Sm Up longer corner and awkward pullbver to eloping ledge. (ill) 6m Gradual corner leading to ridge.

37. Saannech: V.D. 18m. C. Trotter end

                                         P. Loni

Start immediately to left of overhanging corner. Up wall on good holds to large platform and then up crack in face and step out left and climb ridge along crest. �