West Valley - Revision history

Barry watts at 20:56, 14 October 2025

2025-10-14T20:56:57Z

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Barry watts at 19:16, 14 October 2025

2025-10-14T19:16:07Z

Barry watts at 16:56, 14 October 2025

2025-10-14T16:56:58Z

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Shayoh at 16:58, 5 August 2021

2021-08-05T16:58:58Z

Shayoh at 16:56, 5 August 2021

2021-08-05T16:56:28Z

Shayoh at 16:54, 5 August 2021

2021-08-05T16:54:23Z

Shayoh: nEW ROUTE, fREEFALL sTATE, dALKEY

2021-08-05T16:53:09Z

nEW ROUTE, fREEFALL sTATE, dALKEY

Daveh at 09:10, 26 March 2021

2021-03-26T09:10:31Z

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Daveh: 1 revision imported

2021-03-09T17:05:18Z

1 revision imported

ico>TM at 15:41, 9 July 2019

2019-07-09T15:41:50Z

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@@ Line 28: / Line 28: @@
 Start below a corner on the left side of the Pilaster Buttress. Climb a groove up the right wall of the corner and onto the edge of the buttress. Finish directly up the crack above or move up and right onto the face and then direct to the top.<br>
 Variations:<br>
-. Direct Start VS 5a Climb the slab at the foot of the buttress below and right of the normal start and using a high flat hold above climb the edge steeply to better holds. S.R. Young 1977<br>
+. Direct Start VS 5a Climb the slab at the foot of the buttress below and right of the normal start and using a high flat hold above climb the edge steeply to better holds. S.R. Young 1977<br>2. The thin crack 1m to the left of the hand crack provides an interesting finish.
-'''PILASTER''' ***	15m	VS 4c<br>
+'''PILASTER''' ***	15m	VS 4c<br>''F. Maguire, A. Kopczynski. 1951.''<br>
 Superb climbing up the centre of the buttress with a bold and strenuous start which has broken many ankles. Start below the centre of the Pilaster Buttress. Climb the slab and steep wall above to gain a large ledge. Move left up the ledge to reach a higher ledge and move delicately right to a large ledge and belay.
@@ Line 157: / Line 155: @@
 '''GARDENERS JOY''' 	17m	D<br>
 ''W. Perrott. 1950.''<br>
-Takes the obvious scrappy line up the right side of the Mahjongg Slab. Start below the Mahjongg Slab and scramble rightwards over ledges into a corner. Follow the diagonal line back left to finish just above Levitation.<br>
+Takes the obvious scrappy line up the right side of the Mahjongg Slab. Start below the Mahjongg Slab and scramble rightwards over ledges into a corner. Follow the diagonal line back left to finish just above Levitation.<br>'''Variation: Sideline'''  HS 4b   Eugene Shields, Áine O Reilly 17/07/2018<br>Scramble rightwards on ‘Gardeners Joy’ to a thin crack in the overlap on the right. Surmount this using a crack on the left side of the slab above. Finish up this to join the thin crack of Fragile variation finish.
-'''FRAGILE''' 	17m	HS   4b<br>
+'''FRAGILE''' 	17m	HS   4b<br>''S. Windrim, D. Windrim, T. Ryan. Summer 1974.''<br>Follow an eliminate line left of Paradise Lost to the top of the flake above the wide crack. Climb straight up past a borehole to finish.<br>'''Variation:''' HS 4b Terry Murphy, Stephen Gray 18/07/2018<br>From the flake step left below the borehole (delicate) and follow the thin crack on the left side of the slab to the top.
 '''PARADISE LOST''' ***	17m	VD<br>
@@ Line 339: / Line 331: @@
 Desperate slab climbing on microdots and finger nail edges. Climb the slab just right of Winder?s Crack to an optimistic finish.
-'''NORTHERN EXPOSURE''' 	11m	E6 6b<br>
+'''NORTHERN EXPOSURE''' 	11m	E6 6b<br>''K. Cooper. 2.9.1993 (Top-roped prior to ascent).''<br>A bold eliminate line with good technical interest just left of Paul’s Edge. Start as for Paul’s Edge and climb directly via a U shaped borehole to gain a faint vertical seam, where thin moves lead to an exciting finish left of Paul’s Edge. Use of the borehole on Paul’s Edge although tempting is considered a cop out.
-'''PAULS EDGE''' **	12m	HVS 5a<br>
+'''PAULS EDGE''' **	12m	HVS 5a<br>''P. Hill. 1953.''<br>Excellent bold climbing up the right arête of the slab with appreciable deck out potential. Start at the bottom right side of the slab. Gain the slab and move up and out right to a spacious ledge on the arête. Step left and follow the slab past a borehole with a scary move to reach good holds and the top.
 '''ILLEGITIMATE GULLY''' 	11m	D<br>
@@ Line 420: / Line 408: @@
 '''GROUND HOG''' 	12m	HS 4a<br>''D. Windrim, S. Windrim, K. Higgs. 8.1976.''<br>Thrashes its way through the forest at the left hand side of the Jameson 10 wall. Starts up a groove just left of Badge. Surmount an overlap to gain the obvious ledge, follow the ledge left onto a broken block. Then climb up rightwards on small holds.
-'''BADGE''' *	12m	HVS 5b<br>''K. Higgs, R. Windrim. 3.8.1976.''<br>An unfortunately fast disappearing route due to the encroachment of vegetation. Climb the short corner 5m left of Jameson 10. Step left and continue up to an obvious ledge where the difficult finishing groove (peg) awaits.
+'''BADGE''' *	12m E2 6a<br>''K. Higgs, R. Windrim. 3.8.1976.''<br>Climb the short corner 5m left of Jameson 10. Step left and continue up to an obvious ledge where the difficult finishing groove (peg) awaits.
 ''To the right is a fine vertical wall with a greenish colour. Several excellent routes are found here.''

@@ Line 397: / Line 397: @@
 Variation: Direct Start E1 5b Provides a much better start. Start 2m further right at the borehole. Climb up to an undercut flake and steeply gain the break directly above. R. Fenlon, D. O'Sullivan. 1988.
-'''DILLONS DAWN''' 	24m	E5 6c<br>
+'''DILLONS DAWN''' 	24m	E5 6c<br>''S.R. Young. 24.3.1973, with aid. F. Lomba. Summer 1993, first free ascent.''<br>Start 4m left of the Gnasher, gain the break (pegs) and somehow levitate up into the ferocious hanging groove (peg and sling, no longer present) to finish above.
-'''THE GNASHER''' **	24m	E2 6a<br>
+'''THE GNASHER''' **	24m	E2 6a<br>''S.R. Young. 8.8.1973. Solo ascent using aid. H. Hebblethwaite. 1983. First free ascent.''<br>'''Note: Major rockfall on 2019-05-29 obliterated this route'''.
-'''BINGLESTEIN''' *	24m	VS 4b<br>
+'''BINGLESTEIN''' *	24m	VS 4b<br>''J. Morrison,''<br>A surprisingly good route with several possible variants. Takes the V-groove just left of the sycamore tree. Climb the groove to a ledge at 5m. Step right and move up to a ledge below an overhang. Possible belay (nuts). Move up and left to another ledge below a small overhang. Traverse delicately left around the edge using a wobbly block. Scrambling leads to the top.<br>'''Variations'''
-''J. Morrison,''<br>
+. Ascend the groove direct (J. Colton. 1977).<br>2. Take the overhang direct.<br>3. Climb the wall right of the normal start.
 '''FALL OUT''' 	25m	S 4a<br>

@@ Line 445: / Line 445: @@
 Start about 12m right of the sycamore tree at the foot of Binglestein and 3m right of Bawl Out, between two patches of hanging vegetation. <br>Go up right easily over steps, to the foot of a narrow slab slanting up left. Climb the slab and move around into a short, left-facing corner. Pull over this, then make a delicate, rising traverse right, to the foot of an open book corner containing a two meter vertical bore hole. Climb the corner and step left to the foot of the fine slab. Climb this, moving out left near the top, to finish up over blocks, at a tree belay.
-'''Free Fall State E1 5b''' <br> ''Grzegorz Motyka & Mark Gylby May 2021'' <br>Start between Tastebomb & Grabber. Just right of small tree, move up left to traverse rightward ramp block. Step left onto horiziontal edge. Up to horizontal slope under block, step right onto corner block. Traverse left to join crack to top.
+'''FREE FALL STATE E1 5b''' <br> ''Grzegorz Motyka & Mark Gylby May 2021'' <br>Start between Tastebomb & Grabber. Just right of small tree, move up left to traverse rightward ramp block. Step left onto horiziontal edge. Up to horizontal slope under block, step right onto corner block. Traverse left to join crack to top.
 '''GRABBER''' 	20m	VS 5a<br>

@@ Line 445: / Line 445: @@
 Start about 12m right of the sycamore tree at the foot of Binglestein and 3m right of Bawl Out, between two patches of hanging vegetation. <br>Go up right easily over steps, to the foot of a narrow slab slanting up left. Climb the slab and move around into a short, left-facing corner. Pull over this, then make a delicate, rising traverse right, to the foot of an open book corner containing a two meter vertical bore hole. Climb the corner and step left to the foot of the fine slab. Climb this, moving out left near the top, to finish up over blocks, at a tree belay.
-'''Free Fall State E1 5b'''  ''Grzegorz Motyka & Mark Gylby May 2021'' Start between Tastebomb & Grabber. Just right of small tree, move up left to traverse rightward ramp block. Step left onto horiziontal edge. Up to horizontal slope under block, step right onto corner block. Traverse left to join crack to top.
+'''Free Fall State E1 5b''' <br> ''Grzegorz Motyka & Mark Gylby May 2021'' <br>Start between Tastebomb & Grabber. Just right of small tree, move up left to traverse rightward ramp block. Step left onto horiziontal edge. Up to horizontal slope under block, step right onto corner block. Traverse left to join crack to top.
 '''GRABBER''' 	20m	VS 5a<br>

@@ Line 444: / Line 444: @@
 ''R. Windrim, D. Ryan. Summer 1974.''<br>
 Start about 12m right of the sycamore tree at the foot of Binglestein and 3m right of Bawl Out, between two patches of hanging vegetation. <br>Go up right easily over steps, to the foot of a narrow slab slanting up left. Climb the slab and move around into a short, left-facing corner. Pull over this, then make a delicate, rising traverse right, to the foot of an open book corner containing a two meter vertical bore hole. Climb the corner and step left to the foot of the fine slab. Climb this, moving out left near the top, to finish up over blocks, at a tree belay.
 '''GRABBER''' 	20m	VS 5a<br>

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