Wanderweg Walls - Revision history

Gerry Fogg at 21:11, 5 August 2026

2026-08-05T21:11:55Z

Gerry Fogg at 16:41, 5 August 2026

2026-08-05T16:41:17Z

Gerry Fogg at 10:48, 5 August 2026

2026-08-05T10:48:05Z

Gerry Fogg at 10:41, 5 August 2026

2026-08-05T10:41:09Z

Gerry Fogg at 07:09, 5 August 2026

2026-08-05T07:09:05Z

Gerry Fogg at 06:14, 5 August 2026

2026-08-05T06:14:16Z

Gerry Fogg at 06:10, 5 August 2026

2026-08-05T06:10:11Z

Gerry Fogg at 06:08, 5 August 2026

2026-08-05T06:08:27Z

Gerry Fogg at 13:51, 4 August 2026

2026-08-04T13:51:25Z

Gerry Fogg at 13:47, 4 August 2026

2026-08-04T13:47:48Z

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 '''<u>THE REDISCOVERY OF WANDERWEG   JULY 2026</u>'''
-When Peter Britton and Colm Ennis died in the Alps in 2014, they left behind them a mystery: the location of their 2009 route Wanderweg.  Beyond that it was somewhere in Crotty’s, no one living had any idea as to its whereabouts.  Determined and repeated efforts made to locate it and repeat it proved failed completely.  It is, of course, possible that their description was deliberately vague, in order not to encourage others until their explorations were complete.  Or perhaps, not anticipating not being around, indicating where it was did not seem important.  But, for whatever reason, matching the route-description to any bit of the rockface proved impossible, and it was only inspired guesswork that led to us climbing  ''For the Fallen''  (named in their memory) so close to their line.
+When Peter Britton and Colm Ennis died in the Alps in 2014, they left behind them a mystery: the location of their 2009 route Wanderweg.  Beyond that it was somewhere in Crotty’s, no one living had any idea as to its whereabouts.  Determined and repeated efforts made to locate it and repeat it failed completely.  It is, of course, possible that their description was deliberately vague, in order not to encourage others until their explorations were complete.  Or perhaps, not anticipating not being around, indicating where it was did not seem important.  But, for whatever reason, matching the route-description to any bit of the rockface proved impossible, and it was only inspired guesswork that led to us climbing  ''For the Fallen''  (named in their memory) so close to their line.
 The three things that made locating Wanderweg so difficult were:

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 But thirdly, and most misleading, was the prominence in the description of a chimney. This was the feature on which the searchers pinned their hopes for success.  Much close scanning of the cliff failed to reveal any suitable candidate - for the simple reason that it is invisible unless you are standing on the ledge beside it (and even then one might debate the term for an off-width fissure behind a large flake).
-It was then a matter of great surprise and delight to come upon Peter and Colm’s abseil point.  Presumably, this was their high point on their first attempt, in ‘wet and greasy conditions’.  With this fixed point, the rest of the route could be fitted into place.  And a seemingly never-to-be-solved mystery of fourteen years standing laid to rest.  G. F.
+It was then a matter of great surprise and delight to come upon Peter and Colm’s abseil point.  Presumably, this was their high point on their first attempt, in ‘wet and greasy conditions’.  With this fixed point, the rest of the route could be fitted into place.  And a seemingly never-to-be-solved mystery of twelve years standing laid to rest.  G. F.
 '''<u>KNOBBLY AND SMOOTH ROCK</u>'''

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 '''<u>KNOBBLY AND SMOOTH ROCK</u>'''
-In his introduction to the 1995 guide, Jack Bergin says that ‘because of the rough nature of the conglomerate rock’ - - ‘even the blankest sections might be climbed’.  This is not necessarily true!
+In his introduction to the 1995 guide, Jack Bergin says that ‘because of the rough nature of the conglomerate rock, even the blankest sections might be climbed’.  This is not necessarily true!
 Those familiar with climbing in the Comeraghs will have come to recognize - perhaps unconsciously - that there are two, very different, surfaces that they might encounter:
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-'''THE JOLLY PODGER''' 100m E1 4c,4c, 5a<br>
+'''THE JOLLY PODGER''' 100m HVS 4c,4c, 5a<br>
 The thin-edged crack in the centre of the face to the right of ''The Lizard'' has a bold start leading to more-relaxed climbing.

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 '''<u>THE REDISCOVERY OF WANDERWEG   JULY 2026</u>'''
-When Peter Britton and Colm Ennis died in the Alps in 2014, they left behind them a mystery: the location of their 2009 route Wanderweg.  Beyond that it was somewhere in Crotty’s, no one living had any idea as to its whereabouts.  Determined and repeated efforts made to locate it and repeat it proved utterly futile.  It is, of course, possible that their description was deliberately vague, in order not to encourage others until their explorations were complete.  Or perhaps, not anticipating not being around, indicating where it was did not seem important.  But, for whatever reason, matching the route-description to any bit of the rockface proved impossible, and it was only inspired guesswork that led to us climbing  ''For the Fallen''  (named in their memory) so close to their line.
+When Peter Britton and Colm Ennis died in the Alps in 2014, they left behind them a mystery: the location of their 2009 route Wanderweg.  Beyond that it was somewhere in Crotty’s, no one living had any idea as to its whereabouts.  Determined and repeated efforts made to locate it and repeat it proved failed completely.  It is, of course, possible that their description was deliberately vague, in order not to encourage others until their explorations were complete.  Or perhaps, not anticipating not being around, indicating where it was did not seem important.  But, for whatever reason, matching the route-description to any bit of the rockface proved impossible, and it was only inspired guesswork that led to us climbing  ''For the Fallen''  (named in their memory) so close to their line.
 The three things that made locating Wanderweg so difficult were:

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 Those familiar with climbing in the Comeraghs will have come to recognize - perhaps unconsciously - that there are two, very different, surfaces that they might encounter:
-a) Knobbly broken rock - where the parting has been around the pebbles, as described by Jack - happy days and
+a) Knobbly broken rock - where the parting has been around the pebbles, as described by Jack - happy days - and
 b) Smooth rock - where the fracture has split through the pebbles, taking no account of their presence.  These are the exposed faces of formerly-closed joints.  Many - if not all - of these surfaces have a polished appearance, which indicates (to me anyway) that they are shear-fractures, albeit that the displacement was only on a very small (mm) scale.  In addition, the removed rock being that which moved downwards, all the (often barely visible) overlaps face downwards i.e. exactly wrong for climbing.   Such smooth shiny rock has very poor friction and is not easy to climb.  G.F.

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 . 12m 5b  Climb the corner between the smooth back wall and the block with the stepped overhangs on the right. (See note on smooth and rough rock).  To top out, perhaps do not commit fully to the sharp-topped jammed flake, but use a hold on the wall above.  The belay seat thus gained is exceptional for its comfort, spectacular position and prospects.
-. 18m 5a  Climb the cracks in the face on left to the arête and ramp beyond.  Go past the '''heritage tat''' of '''Peter''' and '''Colm’s''' '''abseil point''' and belay on the ledge above.  On the right of this ledge is a very large but relatively thin flake.  The gap between it and the back wall is perfecctly smooth and offwidth.  This is the ‘chinmey’ mentioned in ''Wanderweg.''
+. 18m 5a  Climb the cracks in the face on left to the arête and ramp beyond.  Go past the '''heritage tat''' of '''Peter''' and '''Colm’s''' '''abseil point''' and belay on the ledge above.  On the right of this ledge is a very large but relatively thin flake.  The gap between it and the back wall is perfectly smooth and offwidth.  This is the ‘chimney’ mentioned in ''Wanderweg.''
 ''[From this point, having found Wanderweg, it was followed.  Independent pitches may well be added later]''

← Older revision		Revision as of 06:10, 5 August 2026
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	This East-facing wall is to the West of Crotty’s Rock and lies in the upper part of the coum.		This East-facing wall is to the West of Crotty’s Rock and lies in the upper part of the coum.
		+

	'''THE WALK''' 85m E1 5b 5b 5a 5a 4c		'''THE WALK''' 85m E1 5b 5b 5a 5a 4c

← Older revision		Revision as of 06:08, 5 August 2026
Line 50:		Line 50:

	This East-facing wall is to the West of Crotty’s Rock and lies in the upper part of the coum.		This East-facing wall is to the West of Crotty’s Rock and lies in the upper part of the coum.
		+
		+	'''THE WALK''' 85m E1 5b 5b 5a 5a 4c
		+
		+	Location: at the start of the ledge, above the unclimbed lower tier, that leads to ''Wanderweg'' and ''For the Fallen''
		+
		+	1. 20m 5b Climb the system of square-cut corners to a stance at 20m.
		+
		+	2. 12m 5b Climb the corner between the smooth back wall and the block with the stepped overhangs on the right. (See note on smooth and rough rock). To top out, perhaps do not commit fully to the sharp-topped jammed flake, but use a hold on the wall above. The belay seat thus gained is exceptional for its comfort, spectacular position and prospects.
		+
		+	3. 18m 5a Climb the cracks in the face on left to the arête and ramp beyond. Go past the '''heritage tat''' of '''Peter''' and '''Colm’s''' '''abseil point''' and belay on the ledge above. On the right of this ledge is a very large but relatively thin flake. The gap between it and the back wall is perfecctly smooth and offwidth. This is the ‘chinmey’ mentioned in ''Wanderweg.''
		+
		+	''[From this point, having found Wanderweg, it was followed. Independent pitches may well be added later]''
		+
		+	4. From chest-height, the broken top edge of a thinner flake leads out rightwards and up across the face of the flake. Follow this to gain a good crack that slants leftwards to the top of the flake.
		+
		+	5. 20m 4c Move right over woodrush to a crack near the arete. Climb this and follow the ramp beyond.
		+
		+	6. Scramble off or locate and climb the top pitch of ''Wanderweg.''
		+
		+	G. Fogg, M Griffin. 7/7/2026 On sight.

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 b) Smooth rock - where the fracture has split through the pebbles, taking no account of their presence.  These are the exposed faces of formerly-closed joints.  Many - if not all - of these surfaces have a polished appearance, which indicates (to me anyway) that they are shear-fractures, albeit that the displacement was only on a very small (mm) scale.  In addition, the removed rock being that which moved downwards, all the (often barely visible) overlaps face downwards i.e. exactly wrong for climbing.   Such smooth shiny rock has very poor friction and is not easy to climb.  G.F.
 <u>THE LIZARD BAY</u>
 '''THE LIZARD''' 100m E2/3 4c, 5c<br>
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 <u>WANDERWEG WALLS</u>