Wanderweg Walls - Revision history

Gerry Fogg 1 at 06:46, 8 September 2026

2026-09-08T06:46:49Z

Gerry Fogg 1: /* Wanderweg Walls */

2026-09-05T06:49:04Z

Wanderweg Walls

Gerry Fogg 1: /* Wanderweg Walls */

2026-09-04T18:28:38Z

Wanderweg Walls

Gerry Fogg 1: /* Wanderweg Walls */

2026-09-04T17:35:42Z

Wanderweg Walls

Gerry Fogg 1 at 21:35, 28 August 2026

2026-08-28T21:35:14Z

Gerry Fogg 1 at 21:31, 28 August 2026

2026-08-28T21:31:55Z

Gerry Fogg 1 at 21:22, 28 August 2026

2026-08-28T21:22:56Z

Gerry Fogg at 21:11, 5 August 2026

2026-08-05T21:11:55Z

Gerry Fogg at 16:41, 5 August 2026

2026-08-05T16:41:17Z

Gerry Fogg at 10:48, 5 August 2026

2026-08-05T10:48:05Z

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 a) Knobbly broken rock - where the parting has been around the pebbles, as described by Jack - happy days - and
-b) Smooth rock - where the fracture has split through the pebbles, taking no account of their presence.  These are the exposed faces of formerly-closed joints.  Many - if not all - of these surfaces have a polished appearance, which indicates (to me anyway) that they are shear-fractures, albeit that the displacement was only on a very small (mm) scale.  In addition, the removed rock being that which moved downwards, all the (often barely visible) overlaps face downwards i.e. exactly wrong for climbing.   Such smooth shiny rock has very poor friction and is not easy to climb.  G.F.
+b) Smooth rock - where the fracture has split through the pebbles, taking no account of their presence.  These are the exposed faces of formerly-closed joints.  Many - if not all - of these surfaces have a polished appearance, which indicates (to me anyway) that they are shear-fractures, albeit that the displacement was only on a very small (mm) scale.  In addition, the removed rock invariably being that which moved downwards, all the (often barely visible) overlaps face downwards i.e. exactly wrong for climbing.   Such smooth shiny rock has very poor friction and is not easy to climb.  G.F.
 '''<u>THE LIZARD BAY</u>'''

@@ Line 51: / Line 51: @@
 '''<u>WANDERWEG BUTTRESS</u>'''
-This East-facing wall is to the West of Crotty’s Rock and lies in the upper part of the  Coum.   There is the option to mix and match the upper pitches that have shared ledges, to suit your taste.
+This East-facing wall is to the West of Crotty’s Rock and lies in the upper part of the  Coum.
@@ Line 62: / Line 64: @@
 . 12m 5b  Climb the corner between the smooth back wall and the block with the stepped overhangs on the right. (See note on smooth and rough rock).  To top out, perhaps do not commit fully to the sharp-topped jammed flake, but use a hold on the wall above.  The belay seat thus gained is exceptional for its comfort, spectacular position and prospects.
-. 18m 5a  Climb the cracks in the face on left to the arête and ramp beyond.  Go past the '''heritage tat''' of '''Peter''' and '''Colm’s''' '''abseil point''' and belay on the ledge above.  On the right of this ledge is a very large but relatively thin flake.  The gap between it and the back wall is perfectly smooth and offwidth (It measures 8” or 20.5cm i.e. my handspan or slightly less than the width of my old-school Camp helmet).  This is the ‘chimney’ mentioned in ''Wanderweg.''
+. 18m 5a  Climb the cracks in the face on left to the arête and ramp beyond.  Go past the '''heritage tat''' of '''Peter''' and '''Colm’s''' '''abseil point''' and belay on the ledge above.  On the right of this ledge is a very large but relatively thin flake.  The gap between it and the back wall is perfectly smooth and offwidth (It measures 8” (20.5cm) i.e. my handspan or slightly less than the width of my old-school Camp helmet).  This is the ‘chimney’ mentioned in ''Wanderweg.''
 ''[On the first ascent, having found Wanderweg, it was followed from here to the top.  On our return, having climbed the first section of Wanderweg to this point, the independent line of The Walk was resumed.]''

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 . 40m Start at steep left trending crack, step right to delicately pull up onto grass ledge. Traverse left past detached block and ascend long grassy corner. Belay below an obvious chimney.
-. 20m Climb to base of chimney which is avoided by a traverse rightwards along an ascending crack and past some blocks until a left trending crack is reached. Climb this crack to top of chimney.  ''[From chest height, the broken top edge of a thinner flake leads out rightwards. Follow this to gain a good crack that slants leftwards to the top of the flake.]''
+. 20m Climb to base of chimney which is avoided by a traverse rightwards along an ascending crack and past some blocks until a left trending crack is reached. Climb this crack to top of chimney.
 . 25m Ascend a rightwards trending ramp to its end and drop into the grassy gully below. Move further down to the base of a wide crack near the right edge of the wall. Climb this to the end of the crack. Then leave the wall by moving to a steep slab around its right edge.

← Older revision		Revision as of 17:35, 4 September 2026
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		+	[[File:AE5B9919-664C-4C18-ABD9-3D204A1F4052.jpeg\|thumb\|Wanderweg Wall complete]]
		+
	==Wanderweg Walls==		==Wanderweg Walls==
	'''<u>THE REDISCOVERY OF WANDERWEG JULY 2026</u>'''		'''<u>THE REDISCOVERY OF WANDERWEG JULY 2026</u>'''

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 . 40m Start at steep left trending crack, step right to delicately pull up onto grass ledge. Traverse left past detached block and ascend long grassy corner. Belay below an obvious chimney.
-. 20m Climb to base of chimney which is avoid by a traverse rightwards along an ascending crack and past some blocks until a left trending crack is reached. Climb this crack to top of chimney.  ''[From chest height, the broken top edge of a thinner flake leads out rightwards. Follow this to gain a good crack that slants leftwards to the top of the flake.]''
+. 20m Climb to base of chimney which is avoided by a traverse rightwards along an ascending crack and past some blocks until a left trending crack is reached. Climb this crack to top of chimney.  ''[From chest height, the broken top edge of a thinner flake leads out rightwards. Follow this to gain a good crack that slants leftwards to the top of the flake.]''
 . 25m Ascend a rightwards trending ramp to its end and drop into the grassy gully below. Move further down to the base of a wide crack near the right edge of the wall. Climb this to the end of the crack. Then leave the wall by moving to a steep slab around its right edge.

@@ Line 24: / Line 24: @@
 b) Smooth rock - where the fracture has split through the pebbles, taking no account of their presence.  These are the exposed faces of formerly-closed joints.  Many - if not all - of these surfaces have a polished appearance, which indicates (to me anyway) that they are shear-fractures, albeit that the displacement was only on a very small (mm) scale.  In addition, the removed rock being that which moved downwards, all the (often barely visible) overlaps face downwards i.e. exactly wrong for climbing.   Such smooth shiny rock has very poor friction and is not easy to climb.  G.F.
-<u>THE LIZARD BAY</u>
+'''<u>THE LIZARD BAY</u>'''
 '''THE LIZARD''' 100m E2/3 4c, 5c<br>
@@ Line 47: / Line 47: @@
 G.Fogg, B.McConnell  13/8/2016    Cleaned 2015.
-<u>WANDERWEG WALLS</u>
+'''<u>WANDERWEG BUTTRESS</u>'''
-This East-facing wall is to the West of Crotty’s Rock and lies in the upper part of the coum.
+This East-facing wall is to the West of Crotty’s Rock and lies in the upper part of the  Coum.   There is the option to mix and match the upper pitches that have shared ledges, to suit your taste.
-'''THE WALK'''  85m E1 5b 5b 5a 5a 4c
+'''THE WALK'''  95m E2  5b, 5b, 5a, 4c, 5c, 5a.
 Location: at the start of the ledge, above the unclimbed lower tier, that leads to ''Wanderweg'' and ''For the Fallen''
@@ Line 60: / Line 60: @@
 . 12m 5b  Climb the corner between the smooth back wall and the block with the stepped overhangs on the right. (See note on smooth and rough rock).  To top out, perhaps do not commit fully to the sharp-topped jammed flake, but use a hold on the wall above.  The belay seat thus gained is exceptional for its comfort, spectacular position and prospects.
-. 18m 5a  Climb the cracks in the face on left to the arête and ramp beyond.  Go past the '''heritage tat''' of '''Peter''' and '''Colm’s''' '''abseil point''' and belay on the ledge above.  On the right of this ledge is a very large but relatively thin flake.  The gap between it and the back wall is perfectly smooth and offwidth.  This is the ‘chimney’ mentioned in ''Wanderweg.''
+. 18m 5a  Climb the cracks in the face on left to the arête and ramp beyond.  Go past the '''heritage tat''' of '''Peter''' and '''Colm’s''' '''abseil point''' and belay on the ledge above.  On the right of this ledge is a very large but relatively thin flake.  The gap between it and the back wall is perfectly smooth and offwidth (It measures 8” or 20.5cm i.e. my handspan or slightly less than the width of my old-school Camp helmet).  This is the ‘chimney’ mentioned in ''Wanderweg.''
-''[From this point, having found Wanderweg, it was followed.  Independent pitches may well be added later]''
+''[On the first ascent, having found Wanderweg, it was followed from here to the top.  On our return, having climbed the first section of Wanderweg to this point, the independent line of The Walk was resumed.]''
-. From chest-height, the broken top edge of a thinner flake leads out rightwards and up across the face of the flake.  Follow this to gain a good crack that slants leftwards to the top of the flake.
+. 15m 4c From the left of the ledge, climb straight up and slightly right to the grassy ledge.
-. 20m 4c Move right over woodrush to a crack near the arete.  Climb this and follow the ramp beyond.
+Traversing the ledge leftwards, past a narrow section, brings you below an impressive overhanging crack.
-. Scramble off or locate and climb the top pitch of  ''Wanderweg.''
+. 18m 5c Climb the crack.
-G. Fogg, M Griffin.   7/7/2026  On sight.
+''[On the ascent, for whatever reason (it was a long day), I did not, on this occasion have the wit to jettison, temporarily, any of the 7.5kg of gear I was carrying.  Of the two falls I took, the second was somewhat dramatic when, having fought my way up over the nose, and out of sight of my belayer, in my exhausted state I pulled incautiously, to steady myself, on something that proved not to be secure.  The result was a head-first dive back into view, and most of the way down to meet my belayer yanked upwards to meet me.]''
@@ Line 76: / Line 82: @@
 First climbed in wet/greasy conditions hence an element of wandering.
-''[The location of this route remains a mystery, despite the best efforts, over the years, of those climbers who both knew Colm and Peter and also the climbing at Crotty’s. The most recent and determined attempts in 2025 failed to identify any features that could be matched with those described. A possible explanation is that the original assumption that their route lay in this area was wrong.  The search continues.]''
+''[The location of this route remains a mystery, despite the best efforts, over the years, of those climbers who both knew Colm and Peter and also the climbing at Crotty’s. The most recent and determined attempts in 2025 failed to identify any features that could be matched with those described. A possible explanation is that the original assumption that their route lay in this area was wrong.  The search continues.]  This is no longer the case (see above) but I left it as part of the story. G.F August 26.''
 . 40m Start at steep left trending crack, step right to delicately pull up onto grass ledge. Traverse left past detached block and ascend long grassy corner. Belay below an obvious chimney.
@@ Line 83: / Line 89: @@
 . 25m Ascend a rightwards trending ramp to its end and drop into the grassy gully below. Move further down to the base of a wide crack near the right edge of the wall. Climb this to the end of the crack. Then leave the wall by moving to a steep slab around its right edge.
 Ascend easily up the grassy gully to a level grass ledge. Walk leftwards to the base of an obvious well formed corner and crack system.

@@ Line 2: / Line 2: @@
 '''<u>THE REDISCOVERY OF WANDERWEG   JULY 2026</u>'''
-When Peter Britton and Colm Ennis died in the Alps in 2014, they left behind them a mystery: the location of their 2009 route Wanderweg.  Beyond that it was somewhere in Crotty’s, no one living had any idea as to its whereabouts.  Determined and repeated efforts made to locate it and repeat it proved failed completely.  It is, of course, possible that their description was deliberately vague, in order not to encourage others until their explorations were complete.  Or perhaps, not anticipating not being around, indicating where it was did not seem important.  But, for whatever reason, matching the route-description to any bit of the rockface proved impossible, and it was only inspired guesswork that led to us climbing  ''For the Fallen''  (named in their memory) so close to their line.
+When Peter Britton and Colm Ennis died in the Alps in 2014, they left behind them a mystery: the location of their 2009 route Wanderweg.  Beyond that it was somewhere in Crotty’s, no one living had any idea as to its whereabouts.  Determined and repeated efforts made to locate it and repeat it failed completely.  It is, of course, possible that their description was deliberately vague, in order not to encourage others until their explorations were complete.  Or perhaps, not anticipating not being around, indicating where it was did not seem important.  But, for whatever reason, matching the route-description to any bit of the rockface proved impossible, and it was only inspired guesswork that led to us climbing  ''For the Fallen''  (named in their memory) so close to their line.
 The three things that made locating Wanderweg so difficult were:

@@ Line 12: / Line 12: @@
 But thirdly, and most misleading, was the prominence in the description of a chimney. This was the feature on which the searchers pinned their hopes for success.  Much close scanning of the cliff failed to reveal any suitable candidate - for the simple reason that it is invisible unless you are standing on the ledge beside it (and even then one might debate the term for an off-width fissure behind a large flake).
-It was then a matter of great surprise and delight to come upon Peter and Colm’s abseil point.  Presumably, this was their high point on their first attempt, in ‘wet and greasy conditions’.  With this fixed point, the rest of the route could be fitted into place.  And a seemingly never-to-be-solved mystery of fourteen years standing laid to rest.  G. F.
+It was then a matter of great surprise and delight to come upon Peter and Colm’s abseil point.  Presumably, this was their high point on their first attempt, in ‘wet and greasy conditions’.  With this fixed point, the rest of the route could be fitted into place.  And a seemingly never-to-be-solved mystery of twelve years standing laid to rest.  G. F.
 '''<u>KNOBBLY AND SMOOTH ROCK</u>'''

@@ Line 16: / Line 16: @@
 '''<u>KNOBBLY AND SMOOTH ROCK</u>'''
-In his introduction to the 1995 guide, Jack Bergin says that ‘because of the rough nature of the conglomerate rock’ - - ‘even the blankest sections might be climbed’.  This is not necessarily true!
+In his introduction to the 1995 guide, Jack Bergin says that ‘because of the rough nature of the conglomerate rock, even the blankest sections might be climbed’.  This is not necessarily true!
 Those familiar with climbing in the Comeraghs will have come to recognize - perhaps unconsciously - that there are two, very different, surfaces that they might encounter:
@@ Line 38: / Line 38: @@
-'''THE JOLLY PODGER''' 100m E1 4c,4c, 5a<br>
+'''THE JOLLY PODGER''' 100m HVS 4c,4c, 5a<br>
 The thin-edged crack in the centre of the face to the right of ''The Lizard'' has a bold start leading to more-relaxed climbing.