Tangincartoor - Revision history

Daveh at 13:00, 24 March 2021

2021-03-24T13:00:31Z

Daveh: /* Excellence Promised area, Far Right Crags */

2021-03-23T21:39:18Z

Excellence Promised area, Far Right Crags

Daveh: /* Rainbow Wall – 12-20m */

2021-03-23T21:38:39Z

Rainbow Wall – 12-20m

Daveh: /* Tree Buttress – 30m */

2021-03-23T21:36:30Z

Tree Buttress – 30m

Daveh: /* Main Wall – Right vegetated Crag 20m */

2021-03-23T21:35:33Z

Main Wall – Right vegetated Crag 20m

Daveh: /* High Crag – 8-10 metres */

2021-03-23T21:34:03Z

High Crag – 8-10 metres

Daveh: /* Central Crag, Main Wall – 15-20 metres */ Formatting

2021-03-23T21:32:36Z

Central Crag, Main Wall – 15-20 metres: Formatting

Daveh at 21:26, 23 March 2021

2021-03-23T21:26:15Z

Daveh at 21:24, 23 March 2021

2021-03-23T21:24:54Z

Show changes

Daveh at 21:21, 23 March 2021

2021-03-23T21:21:43Z

@@ Line 13: / Line 13: @@
 '''Maneater''' is between 4 and 5 on Sector B
-'''Maneater''' 20m VS 4b Joe Lyons, Dermot Wall, 2002 The wide chimney on the right of the crag is reached by climbing easily up the blocks at its base. Bridge up between the walls, keeping out to pass the overhang at the top.
+'''Maneater''' 20m VS 4b <br>''Joe Lyons, Dermot Wall, 2002'' <br>The wide chimney on the right of the crag is reached by climbing easily up the blocks at its base. Bridge up between the walls, keeping out to pass the overhang at the top.
 [[File:Jul 2009 - Tangincartoor 004.jpg|RTENOTITLE]]<br />''Tangincartoor Section B showing angle of rock''
@@ Line 34: / Line 35: @@
 [[File:SECTOR a.jpg|RTENOTITLE]]
-only one climb has been made known to me in this area, it is at the left of the above photo, starting below a boulder sitting on top in a slanting crack. I believe it was first done by Orla Prendergast. It was definitely done on 18th April 2010, by Theo Mooney, Ka Yuen, 2010.
+Only one climb has been made known to me in this area, it is at the left of the above photo, starting below a boulder sitting on top in a slanting crack. I believe it was first done by Orla Prendergast. It was definitely done on 18th April 2010, by Theo Mooney, Ka Yuen, 2010.
 '''Nanuk''' 16m HS 4b<br>
@@ Line 51: / Line 52: @@
 '''2 Boy Named Sue *''' VS (4b) 11m<br>
-A tricky rising traverse, bold in places. Start at large block below obvious rounded flakes. Up block onto wall following flakes up and left to first ledge. Moving left on ledge, rock-over without hand holds onto sloping ledge (Crux). Move gingerly left on ledge to better protection. Up crack to overlap, traverse left, step across to mantle finish.<br>
+''Carl Maddox 2009''<br>
-Carl Maddox 2009
+A tricky rising traverse, bold in places. Start at large block below obvious rounded flakes. Up block onto wall following flakes up and left to first ledge. Moving left on ledge, rock-over without hand holds onto sloping ledge (Crux). Move gingerly left on ledge to better protection. Up crack to overlap, traverse left, step across to mantle finish.
 '''3 Slumdog Millionaire*''' VS (4c) 9m<br>
-Start at obvious central crack, below undercut. Follow crack up to undercut, straight up crack in overhang to finish.<br>
+''Paddy Gethings 2009''<br>
-Paddy Gethings 2009
+Start at obvious central crack, below undercut. Follow crack up to undercut, straight up crack in overhang to finish.
 '''4 Poker Face*''' E1 (5b) 13m<br>
-Follow Slumdog Millionaire to undercut, traverse right along the undercut. Below roof swing down and right on large jug to foot crack. Traverse right using finger-tip crack (crux) to welcome rest. Up right corner of Swing on a String to finish. Nice climbing.<br>
+''Carl Maddox 2009''<br>
-Carl Maddox 2009
+Follow Slumdog Millionaire to undercut, traverse right along the undercut. Below roof swing down and right on large jug to foot crack. Traverse right using finger-tip crack (crux) to welcome rest. Up right corner of Swing on a String to finish. Nice climbing.
 '''5 Swing on a String''' V Diff 7m<br>
 Obvious corner and blocks on right side of crag. Awkward<br>
 ==Ivy wall – 10-12 metres==

@@ Line 252: / Line 252: @@
 '''2 Grasshopper Ridge *''' VD 40m<br>
-A good little climb. Spi??? Up with the odd dubious block. Something a bit different to the main walls.<br>
+''M Dixon / C Maddox.''<br>
-M Dixon / C Maddox.
+A good little climb. Spi??? Up with the odd dubious block. Something a bit different to the main walls.
-or B there is another clean piece of rock, probably 15-20m high. The rock here is
+''or B there is another clean piece of rock, probably 15-20m high. The rock here is''

@@ Line 203: / Line 203: @@
 '''1 Geoffrey''' Diff 14m<br>
-Right chimney/ Walls- Various lines at Diff/ V Diff on right side of crag.<br>
+''C Maddox Solo 2003''<br>
-C Maddox Solo 2003
+Right chimney/ Walls- Various lines at Diff/ V Diff on right side of crag.
 '''2 Gap of Rohan * ''' V Diff 17m<br>
-Left chimney, nice climbing <br>
+''Rikki Phillips, Solo 2004''<br>
-Rikki Phillips, Solo 2004
+Left chimney, nice climbing
 '''3 The Seeker ** ''' VS 4c 18m<br>
-Takes the thin cracks and grooves just left of Gap of Rohan. Climb direct to cleaned crack and groove, up this to small foot ledges and second crack below vegetation. Move slightly right and summount next ledge (possibly crux) Follow crack to easier ground and top. Quality climbing <br>
+''Carl Maddox / John Pierce 29/08/08''<br>
-Carl Maddox / John Pierce 29/08/08
+Takes the thin cracks and grooves just left of Gap of Rohan. Climb direct to cleaned crack and groove, up this to small foot ledges and second crack below vegetation. Move slightly right and summount next ledge (possibly crux) Follow crack to easier ground and top. Quality climbing
 '''3 Pysgod Wibbly Wobbly * ''' HS (4b) 20m<br>
-Start 1-2m left of The Seeker, up to undercut groove trending slightly left, then directly up lightening cracks in wall, a hard move gains small foot ledges (crux) easier climbing to finish. Good protection at the mid-height crux.<br>
+''Ben Siddal LP, 2004''<br>
-Ben Siddal LP, 2004
+Start 1-2m left of The Seeker, up to undercut groove trending slightly left, then directly up lightening cracks in wall, a hard move gains small foot ledges (crux) easier climbing to finish. Good protection at the mid-height crux.<br>'''Direct Start to Pysgod Wibbly Wobbly, VS4c <br>'''''Carl Maddox''
 Start left of undercut groove, straight up steep shallow cracks (tricky to protect) to join main crack at half height.
 '''4 Zippy * ''' VDiff 20m<br>
-Up obvious L/R crack to large 'scoop'. Traverse slightly left at 5m. Thin crack and smaller scoops to top. Good climbing.<br>
+''Carl Maddox LP''<br>
-Carl Maddox LP
+Up obvious L/R crack to large 'scoop'. Traverse slightly left at 5m. Thin crack and smaller scoops to top. Good climbing.
 '''5 Bungle ''' S (4a) 18m<br>
-Start 1-2m left of Zippy. Follow shallow scoops in wall to short steep crack at mid height. Up crack (crux)easier finish.<br>
+''Carl Maddox 2004''<br>
-Carl Maddox 2004
+Start 1-2m left of Zippy. Follow shallow scoops in wall to short steep crack at mid height. Up crack (crux)easier finish.
 Moving left from Bungle, a vegetated section leads to a distinct red rib right trending
 '''6 Red Rib ''' VD 18m<br>
-Follow Rib throughout, Poor protection.<br>
+''Rikki Philips LP, 2004''<br>
-Rikki Philips LP, 2004
+Follow Rib throughout, Poor protection.
-Just left of Red Rib is a fairly large overhang, a smaller overhang/ overlap left again gives,
+''Just left of Red Rib is a fairly large overhang, a smaller overhang/ overlap left again gives,''
 '''7 George''' S (4a) 18m<br>
-Up to small overhang pull over this and scramble to top.<br>
+''Carl Maddox, Solo. 2004''<br>
-Carl Maddox, Solo. 2004
+Up to small overhang pull over this and scramble to top.
-Left of George several short lines, with positive holds from Diff-V Diff can be explored at will.
+''Left of George several short lines, with positive holds from Diff-V Diff can be explored at will.''
-To the right of Sect more brittle and protection poor. we did one route here
+''To the right of Sect more brittle and protection poor. we did one route here''
 ==Excellence Promised area, Far Right Crags==

@@ Line 182: / Line 182: @@
 '''1 Tree Trees *''' HS (4b) 18m<br>
-Start left of trees, on flaky blocks. Cross (???) wall (very vegetated) to bulging wall. Hard move up to solid hand holds, topping out on slab to (????) belay below slab R2.<br>
+''Ben Siddal 2004''<br>
-Ben Siddal 2004
+Start left of trees, on flaky blocks. Cross (???) wall (very vegetated) to bulging wall. Hard move up to solid hand holds, topping out on slab to (????) belay below slab R2.
 '''2 Thirty Tree and a Third''' S (4a) 30m<br>
-Start between first and second tree, up detached block, move right on ledge to holly tree crack/corner. Up corner onto easy sloping crack. Right again up to slab above.<br>
+''Carl Maddox 2004''<br>
-Carl Maddox 2004
+Start between first and second tree, up detached block, move right on ledge to holly tree crack/corner. Up corner onto easy sloping crack. Right again up to slab above.
-'''Left variant S (4a) 30m'''<br>
+'''Left variant S (4a) 30m<br>'''
-Start just right of the left hand tree. Up slabby block to arête. Move up and left of arête on excellent holds. Follow right trending foot crack for 6m then left crack. Move easily up slabs to finish. Cams essential.<br>
+''Carl Maddox 2004''
-Carl Maddox 2004
+<br>Start just right of the left hand tree. Up slabby block to arête. Move up and left of arête on excellent holds. Follow right trending foot crack for 6m then left crack. Move easily up slabs to finish. Cams essential.
-''' Georgie Porgie * HS (4b) 30m'''<br>
+'''Georgie Porgie * HS (4b) 30m'''<br>
-Good climbing. Start as for Left Variant. Up blunt arête, tackle arête and right wall (small cams) tricky. (????) in a crouched position along crack to foothold just above steep wall (exposed). Up more easily on slabs.<br>
+''Juraj Georgievsky 2008''<br>
-Juraj Georgievsky 2008
+Good climbing. Start as for Left Variant. Up blunt arête, tackle arête and right wall (small cams) tricky. (????) in a crouched position along crack to foothold just above steep wall (exposed). Up more easily on slabs.
 ==Rainbow Wall – 12-20m==

@@ Line 149: / Line 149: @@
 '''1 Bush Fighting''' VDiff 20m<br>
-Poor protection for grade. Start easy protruding slab. Traverse left past two big dubious blocks until vegetation stalls traverse. Up onto vegetation, aiming for (fai???). Unprotected groove, good holds to top.<br>
+''Carl Maddox 2004''<br>
-Carl Maddox 2004
+Poor protection for grade. Start easy protruding slab. Traverse left past two big dubious blocks until vegetation stalls traverse. Up onto vegetation, aiming for (fai???). Unprotected groove, good holds to top.
 '''2 Bag of Bollox''' Almost Ungradable S / HS (4a/b) 25m<br>
-Left side of crag, beneath huge overhanging block. Straight up vegetation under overhang. Pass wobbly silver bark tree, left at overhang and up ‘rock’ to finish. Weird!<br>
+Left side of crag, beneath huge overhanging block. Straight up vegetation under overhang. Pass wobbly silver bark tree, left at overhang and up ‘rock’ to finish. Weird!
 '''3. Beautiful Mind''' HS (4b) 20m<br>
 Take the obvious vertical crack and grooves , to the layback arete. Up this to make an awkward pass of the overlap, to giant flakes. Follow flakes taking care with the rock to finish easily.<br>
 '''4. Clems Route''' HS / VS (4b) 22m<br>
-Cleaned cracks to the left of Beautiful mind <br>
+Cleaned cracks to the left of Beautiful mind
 First Boulder
- Crack 1 (5a) Straight up
- Crack 2 (5a) Hard traverse up<br>
+Crack 1 (5a) Straight up
 Second Boulder
- Crack and Arête (4c) 5m<br>
 Walk In Boulder
- Main overhang (5a)
- L overhang wall (5c)
+Main overhang (5a)
 ==Tree Buttress – 30m==

@@ Line 95: / Line 95: @@
 '''1 Windy Miller''' Severe (4a) 18m<br>
 ''Carl Maddox 29/08/2004''<br>
-Start on left side of crag below holly tree. Follow left trending ramp past holly tree to grass/ heather ledge. Follow obvious steepish flared cracks and grooves above (care wobbly block at 2/3 height) to Mantle shelf finish. Good protection.<br>
+Start on left side of crag below holly tree. Follow left trending ramp past holly tree to grass/ heather ledge. Follow obvious steepish flared cracks and grooves above (care wobbly block at 2/3 height) to Mantle shelf finish. Good protection.
 '''2 Top of the Tower**''' VS (4c) 20m<br>
 ''Ben Siddal 29/08/2004''<br>
-Start at main central crack, 2-3m right of Windy Miller, follow crack to thinner cracks until directly below heather ledge, mantle-shelf rightwards onto clean rock ledge. Traverse left on ledge for 2 meters, until below scooped ledge. Strenuous moves onto ledge, then follow thin groove line passing horizontal cracks near top. (Small cams useful) An excellent and varied route.<br>
+Start at main central crack, 2-3m right of Windy Miller, follow crack to thinner cracks until directly below heather ledge, mantle-shelf rightwards onto clean rock ledge. Traverse left on ledge for 2 meters, until below scooped ledge. Strenuous moves onto ledge, then follow thin groove line passing horizontal cracks near top. (Small cams useful) An excellent and varied route.
 '''3 Camelot **''' VS (4c) 18m<br>''Clare Wheatley, March 2012''<br>
-Start 1 meter left of Top of the tower climb thin crack straight up to join Top of the Tower, onto large heather ledge. Climb directy up from ledge passing parallel cracks keeping left of Pheonix Nights. Small cams useful. Quality, varied climbing.<br>
+Start 1 meter left of Top of the tower climb thin crack straight up to join Top of the Tower, onto large heather ledge. Climb directy up from ledge passing parallel cracks keeping left of Pheonix Nights. Small cams useful. Quality, varied climbing.
 '''4 Smile the Fear''' E1 5b 18m<br>
 ''Carl Maddox, Aug 2014''<br>
-Start halfway between Top of the tower and Phoenix nights. Move under and right of bulge. Easier climbing to horizontal cracks. From second crack follow tiny crimps over bulge (crux). Move left to last 2m of Pheonix nights. <br>
+Start halfway between Top of the tower and Phoenix nights. Move under and right of bulge. Easier climbing to horizontal cracks. From second crack follow tiny crimps over bulge (crux). Move left to last 2m of Pheonix nights.
 '''5 Pheonix Nights **''' HS (4b) 17m<br>
 ''Carl Maddox 2003''<br>
-Start on right side of crag below small holly tree, which marks line of distinct left trending, seam/ cracks. Climb cracks past holly tree, then rising traverse left for 2-3 meters to ledge, follow central cracks to top. Steep, good holds, well protected, quite hard for the grade.<br>
+Start on right side of crag below small holly tree, which marks line of distinct left trending, seam/ cracks. Climb cracks past holly tree, then rising traverse left for 2-3 meters to ledge, follow central cracks to top. Steep, good holds, well protected, quite hard for the grade.
 '''6 Patella Jam *''' HS (4b) 18m<br>''Rikki Phillips, 2004''<br>
@@ Line 120: / Line 120: @@
 '''1 Great Craic **''' HVS (5b) 10m<br>
-Takes the obvious crack on left side of crag, good finger jams and foot friction. Short but excellent test piece.<br>
+''Carl Maddox 2003''<br>
-Carl Maddox 2003
+Takes the obvious crack on left side of crag, good finger jams and foot friction. Short but excellent test piece.
 '''2 Tangy Cartoor *''' HS (4b) 10m<br>
-a Bold start on slab following scoops past flake hold to small ledge. Traverse obvious, left trending cracks to top. Tricky with a good committment to smearing. <br>
+a Bold start on slab following scoops past flake hold to small ledge. Traverse obvious, left trending cracks to top. Tricky with a good committment to smearing.
-−
 '''2 Surf Mayo *''' V Diff 10m<br>
-Good holds to triple cracks. Make committing moves to finish. High in Grade. <br>
+''Carl Maddox Solo 2003''<br>
-Carl Maddox Solo 2003
+Good holds to triple cracks. Make committing moves to finish. High in Grade.
 '''3 The Tick Returns''' Severe (4a) 8m<br>
-Nice crack climb. Obvious easy-angled crack on right side of crag. Follow longest, widest hand/finger crack.<br>
+Nice crack climb. Obvious easy-angled crack on right side of crag. Follow longest, widest hand/finger crack.
-Carl Maddox 2004
 Five Finger Shuffle (5) 8m
 (Upper Wall) Obvious hard crack. Horizontal traverse 8m.<br>

@@ Line 71: / Line 71: @@
 '''1 Jammie Dodger*''' HS (4b) 10m<br>
-Danger loose blocks. Take's the obvious left hand crack, through small overlaps, onto recently cleared ledge! Well protected and sustained.<br>
+''Ben Siddal 2004''<br>
-Ben Siddal 2004
+Danger loose blocks. Take's the obvious left hand crack, through small overlaps, onto recently cleared ledge! Well protected and sustained.
 '''2 Street Fighter**''' VS (5a) 10m<br>
-The steep central finger crack. Follow crack on good solid finger locks to excellent holds/ rests in horizontal breaks. Climb/ jam the overhang V-groove (crux) to finish. A short excellent route.<br>
+''Carl Maddox 2004''<br>
-Carl Maddox 2004
+The steep central finger crack. Follow crack on good solid finger locks to excellent holds/ rests in horizontal breaks. Climb/ jam the overhang V-groove (crux) to finish. A short excellent route.
 '''3 Jack Flash *''' HS (4b)10m<br>
-Follow third obvious L/R angled crack to wide jamming/ layback crack finish.<br>
+''Carl Maddox 2004''<br>
-Carl Maddox 2004
+Follow third obvious L/R angled crack to wide jamming/ layback crack finish.
 '''4 Waitext ''' VDiff12m<br>
+''Carl Maddox Solo. 2002''<br>Start at beneath right chimney / blocky groove. Up to grass ledge, chimney and ledges to top. Awkward
 '''5 Phoenix Rising ***''' HVS (5a) 23m<br>
-A great climb, start as for Waitex, climb to the highest, horizontal crack. Traverse the high horizontal cracks of Ivy wall.Traverse cracks towards remaining Ivy, crux section just before Ivy was originally aided by pulling on two cams, but after clearing has now been climbed clean. Find hidden foot holds in Ivy and continue sustained traverse across upper wall to finish at the end of crag/ cracks.<br>
+''Carl Maddox, Maurice J Dixon''<br>
-Carl Maddox, Maurice J Dixon
+A great climb, start as for Waitex, climb to the highest, horizontal crack. Traverse the high horizontal cracks of Ivy wall.Traverse cracks towards remaining Ivy, crux section just before Ivy was originally aided by pulling on two cams, but after clearing has now been climbed clean. Find hidden foot holds in Ivy and continue sustained traverse across upper wall to finish at the end of crag/ cracks.
 ==Central Crag, Main Wall – 15-20 metres==

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
-<display_map type=satellite>53.710425, -9.718695~Tangincartoor</display_map>
+<display_map type="satellite">53.710425, -9.718695~Tangincartoor</display_map>
-== Sector B ==
+==Sector B==
-'''Please Note: The Crags at Tangincartoor, are on Private Land, Climbers are requested not to climb without permission of landowners.
+'''Please Note: The Crags at Tangincartoor, are on Private Land, Climbers are requested not to climb without permission of landowners.'''
 The Irish name for Tangincartoor is Teanga an Chartúir
-Marcin Ostzas and myself did some climbs here in July 2009. Looking up from the valley there are 3 climbable looking sections. The centre one B appears to be the cleanest and the photos below show some routes on it. It is about 15-17m high at the highest point and slabby granite with good protection, known to geologists as the Corvock Granite. Friction is excellent.'''
+Marcin Ostzas and myself did some climbs here in July 2009. Looking up from the valley there are 3 climbable looking sections. The centre one B appears to be the cleanest and the photos below show some routes on it. It is about 15-17m high at the highest point and slabby granite with good protection, known to geologists as the Corvock Granite. Friction is excellent.
-[[File:Tangincartoor-Sector-B-All.jpg|RTENOTITLE]]<br/>''Tangincartoor Section B (not as slabby as it looks)''
+[[File:Tangincartoor-Sector-B-All.jpg|RTENOTITLE]]<br />''Tangincartoor Section B (not as slabby as it looks)''
 '''Maneater''' is between 4 and 5 on Sector B
@@ Line 15: / Line 15: @@
 '''Maneater''' 20m VS 4b Joe Lyons, Dermot Wall, 2002 The wide chimney on the right of the crag is reached by climbing easily up the blocks at its base. Bridge up between the walls, keeping out to pass the overhang at the top.
-[[File:Jul 2009 - Tangincartoor 004.jpg|RTENOTITLE]]<br/>''Tangincartoor Section B showing angle of rock''
+[[File:Jul 2009 - Tangincartoor 004.jpg|RTENOTITLE]]<br />''Tangincartoor Section B showing angle of rock''
-== Sector C ==
+==Sector C==
 To the right of Sector B there is another clean piece of rock, probably 15-20m high. The rock here is more brittle and protection poor. We did one route here
-[[File:Tangincartoor-Sector-C.jpg|RTENOTITLE]]<br/>''Sector C''
+[[File:Tangincartoor-Sector-C.jpg|RTENOTITLE]]<br />''Sector C''
-== Sector D ==
+==Sector D==
 Further down the hill there is another clean steep area.
@@ Line 28: / Line 28: @@
 [[File:Jul 2009 - Tangincartoor 023.jpg|RTENOTITLE]]<br>''Sector D''
-== Sector A ==
+==Sector A==
 to the north of sector B a lovely bit of rock is found.
@@ Line 46: / Line 46: @@
 '''A small, clean section of rocks with a range of quality, surprisingly good routes. This crag is found to the left of Ivy wall'''
-'''1	Deception'''	<br>						S/HS (4a)	9m<br>
+'''1 Deception''' S/HS (4a)	9m<br>
-Start on left of crag, 1m right of Boy Named Sue. Traverse in leftwards on blocks. Into and up corner groove. Tricky move at 2/3m height.<br>
+''Paddy Gethings 2009''<br>
-Paddy Gethings 2009
+Start on left of crag, 1m right of Boy Named Sue. Traverse in leftwards on blocks. Into and up corner groove. Tricky move at 2/3m height.
-'''2	Boy Named Sue	*'''					VS (4b)	11m<br>
+'''2 Boy Named Sue	*'''					VS (4b)	11m<br>
 A tricky rising traverse, bold in places. Start at large block below obvious rounded flakes. Up block onto wall following flakes up and left to first ledge. Moving left on ledge, rock-over without hand holds onto sloping ledge (Crux). Move gingerly left on ledge to better protection. Up crack to overlap, traverse left, step across to mantle finish.<br>
 Carl Maddox 2009
-'''3	Slumdog Millionaire*'''				VS (4c)	9m<br>
+'''3 Slumdog Millionaire*'''				VS (4c)	9m<br>
 Start at obvious central crack, below undercut. Follow crack up to undercut, straight up crack in overhang to finish.<br>
 Paddy Gethings 2009
-'''4	Poker Face*'''						E1 (5b)	13m<br>
+'''4 Poker Face*'''						E1 (5b)	13m<br>
 Follow Slumdog Millionaire to undercut, traverse right along the undercut. Below roof swing down and right on large jug to foot crack. Traverse right using finger-tip crack (crux) to welcome rest. Up right corner of Swing on a String to finish. Nice climbing.<br>
 Carl Maddox 2009
@@ Line 215: / Line 215: @@
 Ben Siddal LP, 2004
-'''Direct Start to Pysgod Wibbly Wobbly, VS4c Carl Maddox <br>
+'''Direct Start to Pysgod Wibbly Wobbly, VS4c Carl Maddox <br>'''
 Start left of undercut groove, straight up steep shallow cracks (tricky to protect) to join main crack at half height.