Swiss Valley - Revision history

Griznovski: made a 't' bold

2025-05-20T19:17:15Z

made a 't' bold

Griznovski: Modified description of start of Lime Light

2025-05-20T19:16:24Z

Modified description of start of Lime Light

Griznovski: Added the word "grassy" to better identify the starting ledge for Lime Light.

2025-04-30T09:21:35Z

Added the word "grassy" to better identify the starting ledge for Lime Light.

Griznovski: Tiny change to route description

2024-09-08T19:55:06Z

Tiny change to route description

Griznovski: Added missing route number

2024-09-08T11:12:05Z

Added missing route number

Griznovski: Added missing route numbers

2024-09-08T11:11:13Z

Added missing route numbers

Griznovski: More photo resizing

2024-09-03T10:51:51Z

More photo resizing

Griznovski: Resized photos and repositioned thumbnails to fix display errors

2024-09-03T10:43:53Z

Resized photos and repositioned thumbnails to fix display errors

Griznovski: Resized photos to solve thumbnail creation error

2024-09-03T10:35:24Z

Resized photos to solve thumbnail creation error

Griznovski: Added warning about throwing rocks down into the valley. Cleaned up the text and fixed a few typos.

2024-09-03T10:17:32Z

Added warning about throwing rocks down into the valley. Cleaned up the text and fixed a few typos.

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:17, 20 May 2025
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−	4. '''Lime ~~Ligh~~'''t VS 50m	+	4. '''Lime Light''' VS 50m

	Possibly slighty harder than Enigma but much longer and rock quality a bit worse. Start 50m down at the bottom of a flat section of wall below an overhang but above the grassy ledges. Offset nut up high on the right wall to belay from can be placed while absailing. Also use your ab rope for the belay! Climb the corner to near the top where you should traverse onto the overhanging wall on the right to finish and avoid the loose corner finish.		Possibly slighty harder than Enigma but much longer and rock quality a bit worse. Start 50m down at the bottom of a flat section of wall below an overhang but above the grassy ledges. Offset nut up high on the right wall to belay from can be placed while absailing. Also use your ab rope for the belay! Climb the corner to near the top where you should traverse onto the overhanging wall on the right to finish and avoid the loose corner finish.

@@ Line 50: / Line 50: @@
 . '''Lime Ligh'''t  VS 50m
-Possibly slighty harder than Enigma but much longer and rock quality a bit worse. Start at the large grassy ledge 50m down. Offset nut up high on the right wall to belay from can be placed while absailing. Also use your ab rope for the belay! Climb the corner to near the top where you should traverse onto the overhanging wall on the right to finish and avoid the loose corner finish.
+Possibly slighty harder than Enigma but much longer and rock quality a bit worse. Start 50m down at the bottom of a flat section of wall below an overhang but above the grassy ledges. Offset nut up high on the right wall to belay from can be placed while absailing. Also use your ab rope for the belay! Climb the corner to near the top where you should traverse onto the overhanging wall on the right to finish and avoid the loose corner finish.
 ''Yosef Dvores, Laura McMorrow, 2022''

@@ Line 50: / Line 50: @@
 . '''Lime Ligh'''t  VS 50m
-Possibly slighty harder than Enigma but much longer and rock quality a bit worse. Start at the large ledge 50m down. Offset nut up high on the right wall to belay from can be placed while absailing. Also use your ab rope for the belay! Climb the corner to near the top where you should traverse onto the overhanging wall on the right to finish and avoid the loose corner finish.
+Possibly slighty harder than Enigma but much longer and rock quality a bit worse. Start at the large grassy ledge 50m down. Offset nut up high on the right wall to belay from can be placed while absailing. Also use your ab rope for the belay! Climb the corner to near the top where you should traverse onto the overhanging wall on the right to finish and avoid the loose corner finish.
 ''Yosef Dvores, Laura McMorrow, 2022''

@@ Line 73: / Line 73: @@
 . '''Optimus Lime''' VS 35m
-Start in a 0.5m squared platform at the bottom of shallow corner. Climb the corner to a sloping ledge of another corner. The start of this corner just above the sloping ledge is probably the crux. Continue up this corner to near the top where it is likely easier to move onto the face to finish. Again it's all jugs so you can move onto the face out of corner if desired.
+Abseil from the three solid round older stakes to a 0.5m rectangular grass platform at the bottom of shallow corner. Climb the corner to a sloping ledge of another corner. The start of this corner just above the sloping ledge is probably the crux. Continue up this corner to near the top where it is likely easier to move onto the face to finish. Again it's all jugs so you can move onto the face out of corner if desired.
 ''Yosef Dvores, Gavin Conlon, 10th August, 2024''

← Older revision		Revision as of 11:12, 8 September 2024
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−	'''Lime in the ballnut''' E1 50m	+	8. '''Lime in the ballnut''' E1 50m

	The first and probably scariest route done at the crag. Start at a hanging belay just above a big overhang. Climb up and then around the arete to enigma. Done in a single pitch but can be split in two.		The first and probably scariest route done at the crag. Start at a hanging belay just above a big overhang. Climb up and then around the arete to enigma. Done in a single pitch but can be split in two.

@@ Line 63: / Line 63: @@
 <br />
-'''Yosef's route''' HVS 50m
+. '''Yosef's route''' HVS 50m
 Start on large ledge 50m down below obvious crack. Surmount the overhang on the left of crack and climb the left side of the crack (right side of crack very dusty) until jugs lead you slight leftward up to the top. The entire wall is just jugs so just head up and slightly left to reach the top and avoiding white dusty part on the right hand side of the crack.
@@ Line 71: / Line 71: @@
-'''Optimus Lime''' VS 35m
+. '''Optimus Lime''' VS 35m
 Start in a 0.5m squared platform at the bottom of shallow corner. Climb the corner to a sloping ledge of another corner. The start of this corner just above the sloping ledge is probably the crux. Continue up this corner to near the top where it is likely easier to move onto the face to finish. Again it's all jugs so you can move onto the face out of corner if desired.
@@ Line 78: / Line 78: @@
-'''Little drops of coolness''' E1 45m
+. '''Little drops of coolness''' E1 45m
 Start on a narrow ledge below a thin crack and a few meters above a bigger ledge underneath. Climb straight up, weaving whichever way tickles your fancy.
 PROJECT

@@ Line 35: / Line 35: @@
 . '''Prime Lime Climb''' E4/5 40m
-An interesting climb on thin ledges that you crimp up the entire way with no real rests. Belay in the corner underneath the roof on the right. Traverse right under the roof and climb up on loose but unbudging blocks. Keep heading right until near the arete and able to head up until you can traverse back left on decent holds to a crack. Follow the crack up past a difficult section. At the top head leftwards by surmounting the roof to a clean finish to avoid loose rock.
+An interesting climb on thin ledges that you crimp up the entire way with no real rests. Belay in the corner underneath the roof on the right. Traverse right under the roof and climb up on loose but unbudging blocks. Keep heading right until near the arete and able to head up until you can traverse back left on decent holds to a crack. Follow the crack up past a difficult section. At the top head leftwards by surmounting the roof to a clean finish to avoid loose rock
 ''Yosef Dvores, Jon Gilmour, 7th May 2024''
@@ Line 62: / Line 61: @@
 ''Yosef Dvores, Jon Gilmour, 17th May 2022''
-<br />[[File:Swiss Valley Side view MAIN WALL.jpg|thumb|link=Special:FilePath/Swiss_Valley_Side_view_MAIN_WALL.jpg]]
+<br />
 '''Yosef's route''' HVS 50m
@@ Line 68: / Line 68: @@
 ''Jon Gilmour, Yosef Dvores, 12th May 2023''
-[[File:Swiss valley yosef route.jpg|thumb|637x637px|Yosef's Route - Spot Yosef on the main wall|link=Special:FilePath/Swiss_valley_yosef_route.jpg]]
+[[File:Swiss valley yosef route smaller.jpg|link=link=Special:FilePath/Swiss_valley_yosef_route.jpg|alt=|thumb|Yosef's Route - Spot Yosef on the main wall]]

@@ Line 22: / Line 22: @@
 [[File:Swiss Valley whole wall.jpg|900x900px|alt=|center|frameless]]
 <br />
-[[File:Prime yosef smaller.jpg|link=link=Special:FilePath/Prime_yosef.jpg|alt=|center|thumb|Yosef on prime lime climb]]
+[[File:Prime yosef smaller.jpg|link=link=Special:FilePath/Prime_yosef.jpg|alt=|thumb|Yosef on prime lime climb]]
 . '''Enigma**''' VS 30m

@@ Line 20: / Line 20: @@
 https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1E7yuP1tr5u4W1AAGoARRPaH1gm6Y6vWS
-[[File:Swiss Valley whole wall.jpg|thumb|981x981px]]
+[[File:Swiss Valley whole wall.jpg|900x900px|alt=|center|frameless]]
 <br />
-[[File:Prime yosef.jpg|center|thumb|869x869px|Yosef on prime lime climb|link=Special:FilePath/Prime_yosef.jpg]]
+[[File:Prime yosef smaller.jpg|link=link=Special:FilePath/Prime_yosef.jpg|alt=|center|thumb|Yosef on prime lime climb]]

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
 '''Swiss Valley'''
-This huge crag is located just on the Leitrim side of the Glencar Valley. It is a truly magnificent crag with stunning views and a real "big-wall" feel to it. It would be very hard to find anything like it in terms of exposure and steepness for the grades. The main wall is covered in jugs, albeit a bit dusty prior to cleaning. The rock itself is likely the reason the awe-inspiring crag hasn't been climbed before because it doesn't lend itself well to the "ground up" approach due to very poor bands of rock. All route done so far begin above the very loose rocks, hence the absail approach. All routes have been cleaned and top-roped prior to first ascent (apart from Yosef's route which was cleaned by Yosef and onsighted by Jon... and no Yosef didn't name it). It is suggested others also clean and top rope new routes first given friability of the rock. The crag should be treated similarly to a sea cliff with all access from the top. There are access issues with the bottom and, as mentioned, the rock is quite bad in the bottom section.
+This huge crag is located just on the Leitrim side of the Glencar Valley. It is a truly magnificent crag with stunning views and a real "big-wall" feel to it. It would be very hard to find anything like it in terms of exposure and steepness for the grades. The main wall is covered in jugs, albeit a bit dusty prior to cleaning. The rock itself is likely the reason the awe-inspiring crag hasn't been climbed before because it doesn't lend itself well to the "ground up" approach due to very poor bands of rock. All routes done so far begin above the very loose rocks, hence the absail approach. All routes have been cleaned and top-roped prior to first ascent (apart from Yosef's route which was cleaned by Yosef and onsighted by Jon... and no, Yosef didn't name it). It is suggested others also clean and top rope new routes first given friability of the rock. The crag should be treated similarly to a sea cliff with all access from the top. There are access issues with the bottom and, as mentioned, the rock is quite bad in the bottom section.
 A 50m absail will get you to the belay spots. Bringing an extra bit of rope to make an anchor makes things smoother but not essential. The last couple meters of routes (apart from Enigma and Prime Lime which as clean to the top) can be a bit grassy but not too bad as far as Irish standard go. Easily avoidable by pulling on the ab rope once grass starts but there is enough solid rock in the grassy part to climb as well.
-The access from the top couldn't be easier. You can drive up a forestry road to the top of the mountain and walk 15min to the first route. There are laybys all along the road up that you can use. Be mindful of farmers that use the top as it is all commanage up there.
+The access from the top couldn't be easier. You can drive up a forestry road to the top of the mountain and walk 15min to the first route. There are laybys all along the road up that you can use. Be mindful of farmers that use the top as it is all commonage up there.
 Here is a pin to the top parking:
@@ Line 39: / Line 41: @@
-#'''Enigma**''' VS 30m
+. '''Enigma**''' VS 30m
-A beautiful corner climb and a great intro to the crag and perfect for those that don't want the exposure of the main wall right away. Belay at the bottom of the crack that runs the entire length of the corner. Overcoming the block that sticks out 1/3 height. Finish on hidden jug pockets in a small overhang on the right hand wall. Lots of medium cams for the crack makes the climb more relaxed. Don't stray from the corner as it hasn't been cleaned elsewhere.
+A beautiful corner climb and a great intro to the crag and perfect for those that don't want the exposure of the main wall right away. Belay at the bottom of the crack that runs the entire length of the corner. Overcome the block that sticks out 1/3 height. Finish on hidden jug pockets in a small overhang on the right hand wall. Lots of medium cams for the crack makes the climb more relaxed. Don't stray from the corner as it hasn't been cleaned elsewhere.
-''Yosef Dvores, Laura McMorrow,  2022''
+''Yosef Dvores, Laura McMorrow, 2022''
 [[File:Swiss valley enigma.jpg|thumb|Enigma]]
 . '''Prime Lime Climb''' E4/5 40m
-An interesting climb on thin ledges that you crimp up the entire way with no real rests. Belay in the corner underneath the roof on the right. Traverse right under the roof and climb up on loose but unbudging blocks. Keep heading right until near the arete and able to head up until you can traverse back left on decent holds to a crack. Follow the crack up past a difficult section. At the top head leftwards by surmounting the roof to a clean finish and avoiding loose finish.
+An interesting climb on thin ledges that you crimp up the entire way with no real rests. Belay in the corner underneath the roof on the right. Traverse right under the roof and climb up on loose but unbudging blocks. Keep heading right until near the arete and able to head up until you can traverse back left on decent holds to a crack. Follow the crack up past a difficult section. At the top head leftwards by surmounting the roof to a clean finish to avoid loose rock.
 [[File:Swiss valley prime.jpg|thumb|Prime Lime Climb|link=Special:FilePath/Swiss_valley_prime.jpg]]
@@ Line 66: / Line 66: @@
 . '''Lime Ligh'''t  VS 50m
-Possibly slighty harder than Enigma but much longer and rock quality a bit worse. Start at the large ledge 50m down. Offset nut up high on the right wall to belay from (also use your ab rope!) can be placed while absailing. Climb the corner to near the top where you should traverse onto the overhanging wall on the right to finish and avoid the loose corner finish.
+Possibly slighty harder than Enigma but much longer and rock quality a bit worse. Start at the large ledge 50m down. Offset nut up high on the right wall to belay from can be placed while absailing. Also use your ab rope for the belay! Climb the corner to near the top where you should traverse onto the overhanging wall on the right to finish and avoid the loose corner finish.
-''Yosef Dvores, Laura McMorrow,  2022''
+<br />[[File:Swiss Valley Side view MAIN WALL.jpg|thumb|link=Special:FilePath/Swiss_Valley_Side_view_MAIN_WALL.jpg]]
 '''Yosef's route''' HVS 50m
-Start on large ledge 50m down below obvious crack. Surmount the overhang on the left of crack and climb the left side of the crack (right side of crack very dusty up until jugs lead you slight leftward up to the top. The entire wall is just jugs so just head up and slightly left to reach the top and avoiding white dusty part on the right hand side of the crack.
+Start on large ledge 50m down below obvious crack. Surmount the overhang on the left of crack and climb the left side of the crack (right side of crack very dusty) until jugs lead you slight leftward up to the top. The entire wall is just jugs so just head up and slightly left to reach the top and avoiding white dusty part on the right hand side of the crack.
-''Jon Gilmour, Yosef Dvores,  12th May 2023''
+''Jon Gilmour, Yosef Dvores, 12th May 2023''
 [[File:Swiss valley yosef route.jpg|thumb|637x637px|Yosef's Route - Spot Yosef on the main wall|link=Special:FilePath/Swiss_valley_yosef_route.jpg]]
@@ Line 80: / Line 88: @@
 '''Optimus Lime''' VS 35m
-Start in a 0.5m squared platform at the bottom of shallow corner. Climb the corner until there a sloping ledge of another corner. Start of this corner just above the sloping ledge is probably the crux. Continue up this corner to near the top where it is likely easier to move onto face to finish. Again it's all jugs so you can move onto the face out of corner of desired.
+Start in a 0.5m squared platform at the bottom of shallow corner. Climb the corner to a sloping ledge of another corner. The start of this corner just above the sloping ledge is probably the crux. Continue up this corner to near the top where it is likely easier to move onto the face to finish. Again it's all jugs so you can move onto the face out of corner if desired.
 '''Little drops of coolness''' E1 45m
@@ Line 88: / Line 97: @@
 Start on a narrow ledge below a thin crack and a few meters above a bigger ledge underneath. Climb straight up, weaving whichever way tickles your fancy.
 PROJECT