South-facing Cliff - Revision history

Gerry Fogg: /* Crusader Buttress */

2026-01-10T18:54:08Z

Crusader Buttress

In Motion: /* Gully Area - East Side Of Cliff */

2022-10-18T19:12:45Z

Gully Area - East Side Of Cliff

In Motion: /* Gully Area - East Side Of Cliff */

2022-10-18T19:11:37Z

Gully Area - East Side Of Cliff

Gerry Fogg at 21:10, 12 April 2022

2022-04-12T21:10:40Z

Gerry Fogg at 13:50, 28 March 2022

2022-03-28T13:50:08Z

Barry watts: /* Main South Facing Cliff */

2022-03-21T14:08:27Z

Main South Facing Cliff

Gerry Fogg at 08:07, 21 March 2022

2022-03-21T08:07:43Z

Gerry Fogg at 07:54, 21 March 2022

2022-03-21T07:54:21Z

Gerry Fogg at 22:30, 20 March 2022

2022-03-20T22:30:28Z

Gerry Fogg at 22:29, 20 March 2022

2022-03-20T22:29:34Z

@@ Line 5: / Line 5: @@
 '''SALADIN'''  E2 5c<br>
-Just left of `Crusader', this is the crack that splits the overhang. <br>
+Just left of ''Crusader'',  this is the crack that splits the overhang. <br>
 G Fogg, H Fogg 7/8/06	onsight

@@ Line 129: / Line 129: @@
 S. Gallwey, J. Bergin. May 1989<br>
 This route climbs the eastern arete of the buttress which is located near the top of the large gully which bounds the eastern side of the cliff. Start - At base of arete. Climb up the groove which splits the arete until it is possible to step across left on to the slab. Make hard moves to get established under the overhang, which is climbed with difficulty via the large crack.
 '''KALLAS''' 73m Grade 3 Scramble.

@@ Line 130: / Line 130: @@
 This route climbs the eastern arete of the buttress which is located near the top of the large gully which bounds the eastern side of the cliff. Start - At base of arete. Climb up the groove which splits the arete until it is possible to step across left on to the slab. Make hard moves to get established under the overhang, which is climbed with difficulty via the large crack.
 ===Lower Tier===
 '''PIEBALD PAN''' 	15m	VS 4c<br>

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:10, 12 April 2022
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	S. Gallwey, T. Flynn. May 1986<br>		S. Gallwey, T. Flynn. May 1986<br>
	This route starts from the second terrace of the main south-facing cliff, and takes a line left of centre up the face, finishing up an easy but exposed rib. Start - Below a small cracked overhang at 7 m. , just right of Stevedores. <br>1. 20 m. Climb up to the left side of the overhang and surmount it via the crack. Climb the slab above to a large ledge. <br>2. 15 m. Climb the slab to the left, through an overlap and up to broken ground. <br>3. 40 m. Trend rightward onto a prominent rib and ascend this on large holds for 20 m. Easy ground to belay.		This route starts from the second terrace of the main south-facing cliff, and takes a line left of centre up the face, finishing up an easy but exposed rib. Start - Below a small cracked overhang at 7 m. , just right of Stevedores. <br>1. 20 m. Climb up to the left side of the overhang and surmount it via the crack. Climb the slab above to a large ledge. <br>2. 15 m. Climb the slab to the left, through an overlap and up to broken ground. <br>3. 40 m. Trend rightward onto a prominent rib and ascend this on large holds for 20 m. Easy ground to belay.
		+
		+	'''38.1 EREWHON''' 75m HS 4c 4a 4a
		+
		+	Start: 15m left of ''Monkey Business,'' at the narrowest point of the path.
		+
		+	1. 15m. Follow the left edge of the overlap. At 8m is a furzy niche; resist the prickly allure of this and instead, break out right onto the slab, past a horizontal break, to belay on small spikes above.
		+
		+	2. 20m. Having traversed left 4m over easy ground, follow the edge of the overlap in a leftward-curving arc and continue up a groove to belay.
		+
		+	3. 40m. Follow the blunt arete (same as for Road to Nowhere).
		+
		+	G Fogg, M Griffin 27/3/2022 onsight.

@@ Line 40: / Line 40: @@
 [[image:cs39 to 45 south.png|600px]]
-'''SHELTERED GROOVE'''  30m HVS 5a 4c
+'''SHELTERED GROOVE'''  30m VS 5a 4c
 At the very left (West) end of the ledge, 15 m left of ''The Other Diamond -'' beyond where climbing might be expected - is a deep SW-facing groove.

← Older revision		Revision as of 14:08, 21 March 2022
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	This route follows a corner just right of Monkey Business to finish at the same ledge. The route is marked (at present) by a shook looking Rowan tree in the upper section of the crack. Start - At a slab just right of a break in the face. Climb the slab and step right into the bottom of a corner. Climb this and the cracks above past the tree to the large ledge to belay.		This route follows a corner just right of Monkey Business to finish at the same ledge. The route is marked (at present) by a shook looking Rowan tree in the upper section of the crack. Start - At a slab just right of a break in the face. Climb the slab and step right into the bottom of a corner. Climb this and the cracks above past the tree to the large ledge to belay.

−	'''''Note''' The advice fo getting down from the last two routes is to abseil or else to ~~downclimb~~ into the E gully. Good luck with that: for anyone attempting an unrehearsed ~~downclimb~~, a shadowy figure, wearing a hood and carrying a scythe awaits your precipitate arrival at the bottom of the gully. Much better is to climb to the top. The next three routes offer themselves.'' (Rockinghorse People ''is mis-numbered as 43 on topo).''	+	'''''Note''' The advice for getting down from the last two routes is to abseil or else to down climb into the E gully. Good luck with that: for anyone attempting an unrehearsed down climb, a shadowy figure, wearing a hood and carrying a scythe awaits your precipitate arrival at the bottom of the gully. Much better is to climb to the top. The next three routes offer themselves.'' (Rockinghorse People ''is mis-numbered as 43 on topo).''

← Older revision		Revision as of 08:07, 21 March 2022
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	S Gallwey, J Bergin. Autumn 1990<br>		S Gallwey, J Bergin. Autumn 1990<br>
	Start - Climb the left-hand crack to where the larger right-hand crack is joined. Continue straight on up the face, keeping somewhat to the right of the large crack. (Led on - sight).		Start - Climb the left-hand crack to where the larger right-hand crack is joined. Continue straight on up the face, keeping somewhat to the right of the large crack. (Led on - sight).
		+
		+	'''TASTE THE FROCHANS''' 35m HVS 5a
		+
		+	To the right of ''Temporary Shelter''. From the boulder, easily up right to ledges. Follow the twin cracks, with protection in each, taking the left one near the top.
		+
		+	G Fogg, H Fogg, H Fogg 14/8/06 onsight.

← Older revision		Revision as of 07:54, 21 March 2022
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	about 3m to 2 grassy ledges. Belay on the higher one, which has a small		about 3m to 2 grassy ledges. Belay on the higher one, which has a small
	holly tree.		holly tree.
		+
		+	''Continuation:'' Just keep going up the corner at the same grade or less. Take a belay at 30m, where the crack reappears to provide anchors, and carry on for another 15m to a total of 45m before scrambling for the top and descent via gully. G Fogg, M Griffin 19/3/2022

@@ Line 44: / Line 44: @@
 Scramble to the top and descend via the E gully.
 G Fogg, M Griffin 6/3/2022 onsight.
 '''THE OTHER DIAMOND'''   18m    S 4a.