Slievenaglogh - Revision history

Alan at 16:23, 21 July 2022

2022-07-21T16:23:53Z

Alan: order of routes and corrected tiers

2022-07-21T16:22:39Z

order of routes and corrected tiers

Daveh: 1 revision imported

2021-03-09T17:05:17Z

1 revision imported

ico>WarMachine at 07:52, 15 June 2013

2013-06-15T07:52:43Z

New page

Location - This is a small rough gabbro crag on the north side of Slievenaglogh (Gr. J 14 08) in the Cooley peninsula, just across Carlingford Lough from the Mournes.

Approach - To get there go to the cross-roads in Omeath and drive uphill for a few kilometres to a T-junction. Turn left and go through the Windy Gap, past the Long Woman's Grave, and take the left fork of the next Y-junction. Drive for about 5 more kilometres to another road on the left and follow this, up the hill and down the other side for 2km to a small turning opposite a green gate. The crag is 15 mins walk up through the ferns on your right. From Dundalk take the main road to Carlingford, but take the left hand turn just after Lordship, then go up the mountains to Omeath and take the second turn on the right to reach the same spot.

Description - The crag is divided into two tiers the Upper Tier and the Lower Tier. The Upper Tier as you may notice when you get there, is split into two buttresses, divided by a grass ramp. The Lower Tier is also split in the same way with the left hand buttress being considerably smaller than the right hand one. The routes on the Lower Tier are shorter than those on the Upper Tier but both tiers provide a variety of climbs. The routes on the upper tier are described from right to left and the routes on the lower tier are described from left to right. It looks a bit manky but is very solid and most of the routes are cleaner than they seem. However some are very dirty still and a little bit of careful gardening wouldn't do any harm in bringing new routes onto the crag for future climbers.

'''CASEY JONES''' 15m S 
I. Rea, M. Rea & K. Lindsay April 1990 
Start at the base of the lowest point of the buttress and go up right and then left to a large block jammed in a niche. Finish straight up from there.

'''BIG RIVER''' 15m VS 4c 
I. Rea & K. Lindsay August 1991 
From the niche just left of Casey Jones climb the thin finger crack in the wall to the top.

'''SWEET JAM''' 15m HVS 5a 
I. Rea & K. Lindsay August 1991 
Start another 2m left of Casey Jones and climb up to a square-cut overhang. Turn this on its left-hand end and move up the short wall which reveals a thin crack that brings you up the middle of the slab to the top.

'''SEAN'S S****Y SHORT ROPE''' 14m S 4b 
M. Mc Donnell & C. Fowler August 2003 
Start 2m left of Sweet Jam and climb to overhang. Up over this and continue up disappearing crack to top.

'''WINTERLAND''' 15m VS 4c 
I. Rea & K. Lindsay August 1991 
At the extreme left-hand end of the buttress are a series of pockets which lead you up to a bulge. Swing right round and finish up the deep crack.

'''QUIVER''' 18m VS 4c 
I. Rea & M. Rea September 1989 
On the right-hand side of the buttress is a pinnacle that you climb by the deep crack on the right.

'''ROBIN HOOD''' 18m HS 4c 
L. Shaw & E. Farnworth July 2003 
Climb the pinnacle by the deep crack on the left hand side. Once on top of the pinnacle continue up over bulge to top.

'''DISCOMBOBULATED''' 18m S 4a 
L. Fisher & D. Farmer June '03 
Climb the chimney in behind left hand side of pinnacle.

'''THE ARROW''' 18m HVS 5b 
I. Rea & M. Rea September 1989 
Climb Quiver until 1m below the overhang. Make difficult moves to get to the left-hand edge of the pinnacle and finish straight up. Traversing from right underneath the overhang is easier.

'''EROS''' 18m E1 5b 
I. Rea & M. Rea September 1989 
This takes the very thin crack in the wall to the right of the pinnacle to where it stops and moves back into Quiver for a few moves. Then steps back right to finish up the middle of the wall.

'''GREEN SLAB''' 18m VS 4c 
I. Rea & M. Rea September 1989 
This shallow left trending line to the right of Eros leads to a ledge at the top of the thin crack. Go out right and finish up the arête.

'''LULLABY''' 20m VD 
I. Rea, M. Rea & K. Lindsay April 1990 
About 7m left of the pinnacle is an easy blocky corner that goes up a big sloping ramp running out right. Climb it.

'''RAINMAKER''' 18m HVS 5c 
I. Rea, M. Rea & K. Lindsay April 1991 
Midway between the pinnacle and Lullaby is a rib/wall with a gungy fault on its left. Climb the rib to a ramp and up on this for a few metres to the overhang. Follow the overhang left to the finishing crack in the wall above.

'''BIG SUR''' 18m E1 5b 
I. Rea & K. Lindsay August 1991 
This is the obvious arête 1m left of Rainmaker which you climb on the right to some good ledges and a shallow finishing corner on the right.

'''TRICK OR TREAT''' 18m VS 4b 
M. Rea & I. Rea August 1991 
Start just left of Big Sur and climb up the corner to an inverted V-shaped overhang. Up and over to end up direct.

'''TOMMY THE BIKES CHRISTMAS CLUB IS NOW OPEN''' 12m VS 
M. Mc Donnell & L. Shaw August 2003 
Start at the left most corner of the buttress at the obvious crack and go straight up as far as the heather and gorse. Traverse left and up around gorse and continue to the top.

'''DON'T FORGET YOUR PICKAXE''' 12m HS 4b 
M. Mc Donnell & L. Shaw August 2003 
Start 2m right of Tommy the Bikes Christmas Club is Now Open on the very corner of the buttress. Climb crack on good holds until ledge is gained. Traverse right along ledge and continue up over bulge on clean rock to the top.

'''KIDNEY FAILURE''' 12m VD 
S. Hynes & L. Shaw May 2003 
Start 4m right of Unknown at the base of the obvious X. Climb straight up until the intersection of the cracks, then take the left trending crack to the top.

'''LADS IN OZ''' 12m S 4a 
M. Mc Donnell & L. Shaw May 2003 
Climb the obvious vertical crack of the X.

Between the two buttresses there is a grass ramp subdivided by two large blocks. The leftmost block has one nice route on it and the larger right most block has some nice routes on it. These are described from left to right.

'''ROTATION, ROTATION, ROTATION''' 11m VD 
L. Shaw (Solo) Sept 2003 
Climb up the obvious deep crack in middle of left most block. Mind the heather.

'''IN BOOTS, PLEASE''' 13m S 
L. Shaw (Solo) Sept 2003 
Starts at obvious crack in middle of slab. Continue up to horizontal ledge. Climb slab straight up from there.

'''JUST GRUNT''' 13m VD 
D. Norman & L. Shaw Sept 2003 
Starts 2m right of In Boots, Please. Mantle onto horizontal ledge and continue up corner to the top.

''' FEMME FATALE''' 9m S 
S. O'Brien & G Angell May 2013 
Starts left of "Left Sister". Easy start using horizontal flakes. At around 3/4 ways use bridging move to rock on right back-hand-side to gain small block ledge. Crux is final move to top out which has no defined hand/foot holds and is friction based. Top anchors are a bit back so make sure to have a decent length rope.

'''LEFT SISTER''' 7m Diff 
L. Shaw & M. McDonnell May 2003 
Towards the left hand end of buttress there are three parallel vertical cracks. The left most one of these is Left Sister. Climb it.

'''TENDONITIS''' 9m VD 
S. McGrath & A. N. Other May 2003 
Climb vertical crack 2m right of Left Sister. Nice layback.

'''RIGHT SISTER''' 12m S 4b 
S. McGrath & A. N. Other May 2003 
Climb vertical crack 2m right of Tendonitis. Then move left under overhang and directly up to top.

@@ Line 96: / Line 96: @@
 '''KIDNEY FAILURE''' 	12m	VD<br>
 S. Hynes & L. Shaw May 2003<br>
-Start 4m right of Unknown at the base of the obvious X. Climb straight up until the intersection of the cracks, then take the left trending crack to the top.
+Start 2M right of "Rotation" at the base of the obvious X. Climb straight up until the intersection of the cracks, then take the left trending crack to the top.

@@ Line 5: / Line 5: @@
-Description - The crag is divided into two tiers the Upper Tier and the Lower Tier. The Upper Tier as you may notice when you get there, is split into two buttresses, divided by a grass ramp. The Lower Tier is also split in the same way with the left hand buttress being considerably smaller than the right hand one. The routes on the Lower Tier are shorter than those on the Upper Tier but both tiers provide a variety of climbs. The routes on the upper tier are described from right to left and the routes on the lower tier are described from left to right. It looks a bit manky but is very solid and most of the routes are cleaner than they seem. However some are very dirty still and a little bit of careful gardening wouldn't do any harm in bringing new routes onto the crag for future climbers.
+Description - The crag is divided into two tiers the Upper Tier and the Lower Tier. The Upper Tier as you may notice when you get there, is split into two buttresses, divided by a grass ramp. The Lower Tier is also split in the same way with the left hand buttress being considerably smaller than the right hand one. The routes on the Lower Tier are shorter than those on the Upper Tier but both tiers provide a variety of climbs. The routes on the upper tier are described from right to left and the routes on the lower tier are described from left to right.
@@ Line 32: / Line 36: @@
 At the extreme left-hand end of the buttress are a series of pockets which lead you up to a bulge. Swing right round and finish up the deep crack.
 '''QUIVER''' 	18m	VS 4c<br>
 I. Rea & M. Rea September 1989<br>
 On the right-hand side of the buttress is a pinnacle that you climb by the deep crack on the right.
 '''THE ARROW''' 	18m	HVS 5b<br>
@@ Line 53: / Line 54: @@
-'''EROS''' 	18m	E1 5b<br>
+'''ROBIN HOOD''' 	18m	HS 4c<br>
-I. Rea & M. Rea September 1989<br>
+L. Shaw & E. Farnworth July 2003<br>
-This takes the very thin crack in the wall to the right of the pinnacle to where it stops and moves back into Quiver for a few moves. Then steps back right to finish up the middle of the wall.
+Climb the pinnacle by the deep crack on the left hand side. Once on top of the pinnacle continue up over bulge to top.
+'''RAINMAKER''' 	18m	HVS 5c<br>
-'''GREEN SLAB''' 	18m	VS 4c<br>
+I. Rea, M. Rea & K. Lindsay April 1991<br>
-I. Rea & M. Rea September 1989<br>
+Midway between the pinnacle and Lullaby is a rib/wall with a gungy fault on its left. Climb the rib to a ramp and up on this for a few metres to the overhang. Follow the overhang left to the finishing crack in the wall above.
@@ Line 66: / Line 66: @@
 I. Rea, M. Rea & K. Lindsay April 1990<br>
 About 7m left of the pinnacle is an easy blocky corner that goes up a big sloping ramp running out right. Climb it.
 '''BIG SUR''' 	18m	E1 5b<br>
 I. Rea & K. Lindsay August 1991<br>
-This is the obvious arête 1m left of Rainmaker which you climb on the right to some good ledges and a shallow finishing corner on the right.
+This is the obvious arête 1m left of Lullaby which you climb on the right to some good ledges and a shallow finishing corner on the right.
@@ Line 81: / Line 76: @@
 M. Rea & I. Rea August 1991<br>
 Start just left of Big Sur and climb up the corner to an inverted V-shaped overhang. Up and over to end up direct.
@@ Line 91: / Line 88: @@
 M. Mc Donnell & L. Shaw August 2003<br>
 Start 2m right of Tommy the Bikes Christmas Club is Now Open on the very corner of the buttress. Climb crack on good holds until ledge is gained. Traverse right along ledge and continue up over bulge on clean rock to the top.
@@ Line 101: / Line 102: @@
 M. Mc Donnell & L. Shaw May 2003<br>
 Climb the obvious vertical crack of the X.

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