Skreen Rock - Revision history

Daveh: Undo revision 1725 by Daveh (talk)

2021-03-19T09:07:03Z

Undo revision 1725 by Daveh (talk)

Daveh at 20:40, 18 March 2021

2021-03-18T20:40:07Z

Daveh at 11:24, 17 March 2021

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Daveh at 11:23, 17 March 2021

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Daveh at 11:22, 17 March 2021

2021-03-17T11:22:12Z

Daveh: Formatting

2021-03-17T11:21:24Z

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Daveh at 11:12, 17 March 2021

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Daveh at 11:11, 17 March 2021

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Daveh: 1 revision imported

2021-03-09T17:05:16Z

1 revision imported

ico>Polarbear: fix spelling of arête

2011-08-22T11:45:46Z

fix spelling of arête

New page

The crag is located east of and just above the Cladagh River in the area of Marble Arch and 500m from the Florencecourt to Blacklion Road (Grid Ref. 125 352, Sheet 26, Lough Allen).Park at Marble Arch. '''There is an access problem, so permission should be obtained before visiting the crag. Do not take cars up the track, but park at Marble Arch.''' The rock consists of good quality limestone with little vegetation. The routes are short, excellent, low grade climbs which are close together. Adherence to the strict line of the route is a local ethic. Protection on most routes is good.

[[File:skreen rock.jpg|800px]]

'''1 SNAIL SHELL SLAB''' 5m D
R. Finlay 1979
Start just left of Crack N'Arête. Climb the short slab on delightful holds. At the top step right and surmount the steep little wall.

'''2 CRACK N'ARÊTE''' 5m D
K. Quinn 1979
Start on the left-hand side of Nursery Buttress. Climb the wide crack and stay on the edge above.

'''3 NURSERY BUTTRESS''' 5m Mod
The little buttress left of Quango's Tango.

'''4 QUANGO'S TANGO''' 5m VD
K. Quinn 1979
The awkward crack a few feet left.

'''5 CAVE CORNER''' 5m Mod
R. Henshaw 1979
Start immediately left of Block Arête. A wide crack with loose rubble at the top.

'''6 BLOCK ARÊTE''' 7m D
K. Quinn 1979
The next arête left. Start low down at Base Camp. Reach the leaning block and surmount the bulge above.

'''7 EASY ARÊTE''' 7m Easy
R. Finlay 1979
The next though less defined arête to the left.

'''8 SKREEN ROCK ARÊTE''' 5m D
R. Finlay 1979
An obvious sharp arête on the extreme right of this small crag.

'''9 LUCKY BOUNCE''' 10m HVS 5a
J. Walsh, R. Hassard May 1994
2 metres left of 'Nightmare...climb clean(!) rock over initial bulge to horizontal break at two thirds height. Finish rightwards on loosish arête.

'''10 NIGHTMARE OF DRY SPAGNUM''' 8m VD
K.Quinn 1979
Start a few metres left of Misconception. Use the wide crack and bridging moves to reach good holds further up.

'''11 THUNDER & LIGHTNING''' 10m VS 5b
J.Walsh, G.Fallis 29 June 1992
A few feet left of Misconception at the base of two thin cracks. Climb these, difficult to start. Well protected with small wires.

'''12 MISCONCEPTION''' 8m D
K.Quinn 1979
Climb the corner at the left-hand side of the crag.

'''13 NUMB NUMB''' 8m VS 4c
K.Quinn 1979
Start 4 m left of Footless Duck.Climb the deep crack to where it splits. Gain a ledge and beware of loose rock.

'''14 FOOTLESS DUCK''' 8m VD
K.Quinn 1979
Climb the first corner on Ashtree Buttress.

'''15 FRESH START''' 15m E1 5b
A.Currans, J.Walls 10th August 1990
On the wall just right of Footless Duck is a steep thin crack. This route follows the crack direct. Strenuous.

'''16 FORGOTTEN ROUTE''' 8m S 4b
K.Quinn 1979
Start immediately left of Technical Advice at an overhang. After a dramatic start climb directly up to finish on loose rock.

'''17 TECHNICAL ADVICE''' 8m VD
R.Henshaw 1979
Climb the cliff 1 m left of Thief's Flight.

'''18 THIEF'S FLIGHT''' 8m VD
A.Carden 1979
Climb the front of pinnacle at obvious crack 1 m left of Pillar Arête.

'''19 PILLAR ARÊTE''' 8m VD
R.Finlay 1979
Climb the cliff 1 m left of Ashtree Catcher.

'''20 JARGONISTIC''' 8m VS 4c
J.Walsh, J.Walls 25 June 1992
Start between Pillar Arête and Ashtree Catcher. A contrived route up the face of the blocks avoiding two other routes.

'''21 ASHTREE CATCHER''' 8m D
R.Henshaw
Start - 10 m left of Clarke's Lark at a crack and a large detached block. Climb the awkward corner crack and chimney up behind the block.

'''22 LIP BASHER''' 9m VS 4c
W.Canning, R.McGurkan 25 August 1987
Climb the obvious line with bulge at half height. Protection difficult to arrange.

'''23 FLAKE OUT''' 10m S 4b
R. Finlay 1979
Start just left of Skreen Sheugh in the corner below flakes. Climb on small holds and 'glued' flakes.

'''24 SKREEN SHEUGH''' 12m VD
D.Jones 1979
Start just around the corner from Clarke's Lark. Climb the wide obvious crack and exit up a corner with an ivy stem.

'''25 CLARKE'S LARK''' 8m D
J.Clarke
Takes the slab just left of Voie Du Trou. Climb directly on delightful holds to a small pinnacle (loose). Surmount the block directly and exit as for Voie Du Trou.

'''26 VOIE DU TROU''' 8m D
R. Finlay 1979
Climb the vegetated corner left of Midge and up behind a jammed boulder. Exit right (loose).

'''27 MIDGE''' 8m VD
J.Armstrong 1979
Climb the next crack left of Finger Me Baby.

'''28 FINGER ME BABY''' 8m S 4a
R. Finlay 1979
Climb the next crack left of Bat Roost. Keep strictly to the crack.

'''29 BAT ROOST''' 9m HS 4b
K.Quinn 1979
Climb the next crack left of Venetian Blind to the top.

'''30 VENETIAN BLIND''' 8m VD
R. Henshaw 1979
Climb the wide crack in the corner left of The Nose.

'''31 THE NOSE''' 8m S 4a
K.Quinn 1979
Start 1m left of Rubbly Gubbly Gully. Keep to the steep stepped buttress.

'''32 RUBBLY GUBBLY GULLY''' 7m S 4a
R. Henshaw 1979
The obvious wide crack leading to a small rubbly chimney.

'''33 THIN ARÊTE''' 7m S 4b
R. Finlay 1979
Start 3m left of Condor Moment. Without using holds on climbs either side ascend the arête on small holds.

'''34 CONDOR MOMENT''' 5m S 4a
J.Clarke 1979
Start 1 m left of Frog Leap Crack. Climb the wall on small holds to the crack at half height and on to the top.

'''35 FROG LEAP CRACK''' 5m VD
K.Quinn 1979
Start at the extreme right of the crag. Climb the obvious crack with the jammed spike.

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@@ Line 3: / Line 3: @@
 [[File:skreen rock.jpg|800px]]
-====== '''1 SNAIL SHELL SLAB''' 5m D ''R. Finlay 1979 ''Start just left of Crack N'Arête. Climb the short slab on delightful holds. At the top step right and surmount the steep little wall. ======
+'''1 SNAIL SHELL SLAB''' 5m D<br />''R. Finlay 1979<br />''Start just left of Crack N'Arête. Climb the short slab on delightful holds. At the top step right and surmount the steep little wall.
 '''2 CRACK N'ARÊTE''' 5m D<br />''K. Quinn 1979<br />''Start on the left-hand side of Nursery Buttress. Climb the wide crack and stay on the edge above.

@@ Line 3: / Line 3: @@
 [[File:skreen rock.jpg|800px]]
-'''1 SNAIL SHELL SLAB''' 5m D<br />''R. Finlay 1979<br />''Start just left of Crack N'Arête. Climb the short slab on delightful holds. At the top step right and surmount the steep little wall.
+====== '''1 SNAIL SHELL SLAB''' 5m D ''R. Finlay 1979 ''Start just left of Crack N'Arête. Climb the short slab on delightful holds. At the top step right and surmount the steep little wall. ======
 '''2 CRACK N'ARÊTE''' 5m D<br />''K. Quinn 1979<br />''Start on the left-hand side of Nursery Buttress. Climb the wide crack and stay on the edge above.

@@ Line 29: / Line 29: @@
 '''13 NUMB NUMB'''  8m VS 4c<br />''K. Quinn 1979<br />''Start 4 m left of Footless Duck.Climb the deep crack to where it splits. Gain a ledge and beware of loose rock.
-'''14 FOOTLESS DUCK''' 	8m	VD<br />
+'''14 FOOTLESS DUCK''' 	8m	VD<br />K.Quinn 1979<br />Climb the first corner on Ashtree Buttress.
-'''15 FRESH START''' 	15m	E1 5b<br />
+'''15 FRESH START''' 	15m	E1 5b<br />A.Currans, J.Walls 10th August 1990<br />On the wall just right of Footless Duck is a steep thin crack. This route follows the crack direct. Strenuous.
-'''16 FORGOTTEN ROUTE''' 	8m	S 4b<br />
+'''16 FORGOTTEN ROUTE''' 	8m	S 4b<br />K.Quinn 1979<br />Start immediately left of Technical Advice at an overhang. After a dramatic start climb directly up to finish on loose rock.
-'''17 TECHNICAL ADVICE''' 	8m	VD<br />
+'''17 TECHNICAL ADVICE''' 	8m	VD<br />R.Henshaw 1979
 <br />Climb the cliff 1 m left of Thief's Flight.

@@ Line 71: / Line 71: @@
 '''29 BAT ROOST''' 	9m	HS 4b<br />K.Quinn 1979<br />Climb the next crack left of Venetian Blind to the top.
-'''30 VENETIAN BLIND''' 	8m	VD
+'''30 VENETIAN BLIND'''  8m VD<br />R. Henshaw 1979<br />Climb the wide crack in the corner left of The Nose.
-'''31 THE NOSE''' 	8m	S 4a<br />K.Quinn 1979<br />Start 1m left of Rubbly Gubbly Gully. Keep to the steep stepped buttress.
+'''31 THE NOSE'''  8m S 4a<br />K.Quinn 1979<br />Start 1m left of Rubbly Gubbly Gully. Keep to the steep stepped buttress.
 '''32 RUBBLY GUBBLY GULLY''' 	7m	S 4a<br />R. Henshaw 1979<br />The obvious wide crack leading to a small rubbly chimney.
 '''33 THIN ARÊTE''' 	7m	S 4b<br />R. Finlay 1979<br />Start 3m left of Condor Moment. Without using holds on climbs either side ascend the arête on small holds.
 '''34 CONDOR MOMENT''' 	5m	S 4a<br />J.Clarke 1979<br />Start 1 m left of Frog Leap Crack. Climb the wall on small holds to the crack at half height and on to the top.
 '''35 FROG LEAP CRACK''' 	5m	VD<br />K.Quinn 1979<br />Start at the extreme right of the crag. Climb the obvious crack with the jammed spike.

@@ Line 29: / Line 29: @@
 '''13 NUMB NUMB'''  8m VS 4c<br />''K. Quinn 1979<br />''Start 4 m left of Footless Duck.Climb the deep crack to where it splits. Gain a ledge and beware of loose rock.
-'''14 FOOTLESS DUCK''' 	8m	VD
+'''14 FOOTLESS DUCK''' 	8m	VD<br />
-K.Quinn 1979
+K.Quinn 1979<br />
-<br />Climb the first corner on Ashtree Buttress.
+Climb the first corner on Ashtree Buttress.
-'''15 FRESH START''' 	15m	E1 5b
+'''15 FRESH START''' 	15m	E1 5b<br />
-A.Currans, J.Walls 10th August 1990
+A.Currans, J.Walls 10th August 1990<br />
 <br />On the wall just right of Footless Duck is a steep thin crack. This route follows the crack direct. Strenuous.
-'''16 FORGOTTEN ROUTE''' 	8m	S 4b<br />K.Quinn 1979<br />Start immediately left of Technical Advice at an overhang. After a dramatic start climb directly up to finish on loose rock.
+'''16 FORGOTTEN ROUTE''' 	8m	S 4b<br />
-'''17 TECHNICAL ADVICE''' 	8m	VD<br />R.Henshaw 1979
+'''17 TECHNICAL ADVICE''' 	8m	VD<br />
 <br />Climb the cliff 1 m left of Thief's Flight.

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