Scalp na gCapail - Revision history

Barry watts at 17:22, 9 August 2025

2025-08-09T17:22:54Z

Barry watts at 17:21, 9 August 2025

2025-08-09T17:21:06Z

Griznovski: Slight change to description of protection on Ganger Gaffney

2025-06-22T15:27:14Z

Slight change to description of protection on Ganger Gaffney

Griznovski: Added detail to Ganger Gaffney route description

2024-09-08T11:29:20Z

Added detail to Ganger Gaffney route description

Griznovski: Advice on nut placement on Ganger Gaffney changed due to placement slot having fractured

2024-05-11T19:22:35Z

Advice on nut placement on Ganger Gaffney changed due to placement slot having fractured

Griznovski: typos

2022-06-19T18:53:03Z

typos

Daveh: Formatting

2021-07-15T12:03:05Z

Formatting

Lslaughter at 22:53, 14 July 2021

2021-07-14T22:53:39Z

Conall O Fiannachta Carraig Climbing: New route added. 3a

2021-07-14T16:23:28Z

New route added. 3a

Conall O Fiannachta Carraig Climbing at 18:48, 4 July 2021

2021-07-04T18:48:59Z

@@ Line 67: / Line 67: @@
 Climb the stepped tongue on good holds up onto spacious ledge. Make your way up into the twin cracks (good gear) and onto another ledge, from here make an awkward move up and over slight bulge and straight up stepped corner groove. Small gear on top.
 [[File:Scalp na gCapaill Topo (right side) June 2021 (Adjusted line 22-23).jpg|none|thumb|977x977px]]
 . '''Under the Carpet''' 20m HS(4c)<br>
@@ Line 90: / Line 89: @@
 .  '''Tweezer''' 25m VS (4c)<br>
-''(C. McDaid, M. Daly – 27th April 2007)''<br>
+''(C. McDaid, M. Daly – 27th April 2007)''<br>Climb the crack with an awkward initial section. The route gradually traverses leftwards in the upper section to join the slabby wall of the previous route. Stake belay.
 .  '''God of Strathyre''' 13m E1 (5b)<br>
@@ Line 109: / Line 107: @@
 . '''Groovezone'''  25m Severe 4a (Unknown)
-. ''' D+2''' 20m Severe (4a)<br>
+. ''' D+2''' 20m Severe (4a)<br>''(Martin Daly,  Brendan Proctor - 8th June 2020)''<br>
 Route takes the arete on the LHS of wall. Climb the diagonal leftward trending crack to a pedestal below and right of the arete. Move up and across left to the arete which is followed to top.
@@ Line 116: / Line 113: @@
 ''(G. Foley – 9th October 1976)'' <br>
 Start right of Hanging Tree Chimney. Scramble easily leftwards to a heather ledge. Climb a series of cracks and ledges to the top. Peg belay.
 '''''Further right there is a wall seamed by three cracks. The first two cracks share a common start before splitting after 2m. The leftmost is taken by'''''
@@ Line 138: / Line 134: @@
 . Unknown S 4a
-Nice line, if it had more gear and another big hold in the bottom section it would be VD.<br>
+Nice line, if it had more gear and another big hold in the bottom section it would be VD.

← Older revision		Revision as of 17:21, 9 August 2025
Line 136:		Line 136:
	Climb the crack direct to top . Stake belay.		Climb the crack direct to top . Stake belay.

−	25. Unknown<br>	+	25. Unknown S 4a
		+
		+	Nice line, if it had more gear and another big hold in the bottom section it would be VD.<br>

@@ Line 85: / Line 85: @@
 .  '''Ganger Gaffney''' 25m E2 (5b)<br>
 ''(M.Daly, C.McDaid - 4th June 2007)''<br>
-Halfway between Polish Paddy & Tweezer, climb through the horizontal break then up a precarious slab (very poorly protected by no.7 offset nut in a shallow slot unless you can find something else that fits better) to a deep overlap/break at 7m which offers the first real protection. Continue up a left trending crack to join the neighbouring routes in the upper section. Stake belay.
+Halfway between Polish Paddy & Tweezer, climb through the horizontal break then up a precarious slab (poorly protected by a small nut or offset in a shallow slot which used to be bigger but proved fragile) to a deep overlap/break at 7m which offers the first real protection. Continue up a left trending crack to join the neighbouring routes in the upper section. Stake belay.
 '''''The rightmost crack line is taken by'''''

@@ Line 81: / Line 81: @@
 .  '''Polish Paddy''' 25m VS (4c)<br>
 ''(M. Daly, C.McDaid – 27th April 2007)''<br>
-Climb the crack through a small roof and follow directly to the top, finishing up a small slabby wall. Stake belay
+Climb the crack through a small roof and follow directly to the top, finishing up a small slabby wall. Stake belay. High in the grade.
 .  '''Ganger Gaffney''' 25m E2 (5b)<br>
 ''(M.Daly, C.McDaid - 4th June 2007)''<br>
-Halfway between Polish Paddy & Tweezer, climb through the horizontal break then up a precarious slab (not very well protected by no.7 offset nut in slot) through the faint overlap/break and then up a left trending crack to join the neighbouring routes in the upper section. Stake belay
+Halfway between Polish Paddy & Tweezer, climb through the horizontal break then up a precarious slab (very poorly protected by no.7 offset nut in a shallow slot unless you can find something else that fits better) to a deep overlap/break at 7m which offers the first real protection. Continue up a left trending crack to join the neighbouring routes in the upper section. Stake belay.
 '''''The rightmost crack line is taken by'''''
@@ Line 91: / Line 91: @@
 .  '''Tweezer''' 25m VS (4c)<br>
 ''(C. McDaid, M. Daly – 27th April 2007)''<br>
-Climb the crack with an awkward initial section. The route gradually traverses leftwards in the upper section to join the slabby wall of the previous route. Stake belay
+Climb the crack with an awkward initial section. The route gradually traverses leftwards in the upper section to join the slabby wall of the previous route. Stake belay.
 .  '''God of Strathyre''' 13m E1 (5b)<br>
@@ Line 111: / Line 111: @@
 . ''' D+2''' 20m Severe (4a)<br>
 ''(Martin Daly,  Brendan Proctor - 8th June 2020)''<br>
-Route takes the arete on the LHS of wall.
+Route takes the arete on the LHS of wall. Climb the diagonal leftward trending crack to a pedestal below and right of the arete. Move up and across left to the arete which is followed to top.
 . '''Tadpole Creek''' 25m V Diff<br>

@@ Line 85: / Line 85: @@
 .  '''Ganger Gaffney''' 25m E2 (5b)<br>
 ''(M.Daly, C.McDaid - 4th June 2007)''<br>
-Halfway between Polish Paddy & Tweezer, climb through the horizontal break then up a precarious slab (protected by no5 nut in slot) through the faint overlap/break and then up a left trending crack to join the neighbouring routes in the upper section. Stake belay
+Halfway between Polish Paddy & Tweezer, climb through the horizontal break then up a precarious slab (not very well protected by no.7 offset nut in slot) through the faint overlap/break and then up a left trending crack to join the neighbouring routes in the upper section. Stake belay
 '''''The rightmost crack line is taken by'''''

@@ Line 18: / Line 18: @@
 . '''Garda Síochána''' 20m HS (4a)<br>
 ''C Ó Fiannachta, H Doherty. 13/05/2019''<br>
-Start 2m right of "Santa Maria De Vision" on good steps moving slightly right and up to quartz feature. Good pockets and gear lead to a series of ledges and cracks to below a tree. Follow cracks and left of tree to where wall steepens. Straight up a thin crack and mantle headwall (crux) to heather ledge. Finish up small bank. Very good protection and wide variety of holds.
+Start 2m right of Santa Maria De Vison on good steps moving slightly right and up to quartz feature. Good pockets and gear lead to a series of ledges and cracks to below a tree. Follow cracks and left of tree to where wall steepens. Straight up a thin crack and mantle headwall (crux) to heather ledge. Finish up small bank. Very good protection and wide variety of holds.
 . '''An Éalaitheoir''' 25m HVS (5a) <br>
@@ Line 59: / Line 59: @@
 . '''Bealach An Laoch Suaimhneach''' 20m VS (4c) <br>
 ''C Ó Fiannachta, H. Doherty. 1/5/2019''<br>
-Start 2m right of Firestarter at the small undercut. Climb up and slightly right of human size notch. Up onto slab and straight up towards the overhang. Arrange protection and make a committing move to surmount this (dont step right!), then enjoy a good rest. Finish straight up the middle of the slabby wall.
+Start 2m right of Firestarter at the small undercut. Climb up and slightly right of human size notch. Up onto slab and straight up towards the overhang. Arrange protection and make a committing move to surmount this (don't step right!), then enjoy a good rest. Finish straight up the middle of the slabby wall.
 '''''2m to the right directly behind the tree lies..'''''

@@ Line 10: / Line 10: @@
 Start:  25m left of route No. 1 ( Santa Maria de Vison) there is a wall which is broken by a ledge at 10m.  The route starts in the centre of the wall.<br>
 Climb the centre of the wall on pockets and square cut edges until the ledge at 10m is reached.  Continue up the wall above the ledge to a small overhang below the top.  Surmount the overhang by using good holds on the left to gain the top.  Good protection.
 . '''Santa Maria de Vison''' 20m HS (4a) <br>
@@ Line 17: / Line 16: @@
 Climb square cut ledges on the left-hand side of wall to where the wall steepens. A few technical moves lead to good jugs and top. Good protection.
-. '''Garda Síochána''' 20m HS (4a) <br>
+. '''Garda Síochána''' 20m HS (4a)<br>
 ''C Ó Fiannachta, H Doherty. 13/05/2019''<br>
 Start 2m right of "Santa Maria De Vision" on good steps moving slightly right and up to quartz feature. Good pockets and gear lead to a series of ledges and cracks to below a tree. Follow cracks and left of tree to where wall steepens. Straight up a thin crack and mantle headwall (crux) to heather ledge. Finish up small bank. Very good protection and wide variety of holds.
-. '''An Éalaitheoir''' 25m HVS (5a) C Ó Fiannachta, J Mcnulty. 19/06/2021
+. '''An Éalaitheoir''' 25m HVS (5a) <br>
 A few metres right of Garda Síochána there is a bulge/overhang at mid height split by a thin crack (crux). This route takes a direct line through this. Start at the second short rightward facing corner directly below the bulge and continue in a direct line. Hard but well protected crux leads to easier climbing. Cleaned prior, lead onsight
-a. Slí na Fianna. 25m HS 4b * (C Ó Fiannachta, L Slaughter, 12/07/2021)This route takes a direct line up the series of cleaned bulges and cracks just left of Dreadnought and finishing up the slightly dodgy looking detached pillar/arête. Start at a low rightward facing corner step and climb up to below yellow stained bulge swing left to good pockets under bulge then back right to stay on bulge. Follow cracks on bulges to top.
+a. '''Slí na Fianna.''' 25m HS 4b * <br>
+(C Ó Fiannachta, L Slaughter, 12/07/2021)<br>
 . '''Dreadnought''' 25m HS 4a<br>

@@ Line 45: / Line 45: @@
 Start 2m right of 'Juliana' Pull up onto wall by difficult moves and climb diagonally rightwards to stance below faint crack. Move up to base of bulge. Climb this, strenuously, (crux) to good rest. Continue to top. <br>
 '''Direct start''': At the righthand end of the big scoop climb the groove for a few metres.  Step right onto the arete at the pocket (no 4 friend).  Continue up to the stance below faint crack.  (M. Daly,  B. Foley - 13/06/21)
 '''''3m to the right of this is'''''

← Older revision		Revision as of 16:23, 14 July 2021
Line 23:		Line 23:
	3. '''An Éalaitheoir''' 25m HVS (5a) C Ó Fiannachta, J Mcnulty. 19/06/2021		3. '''An Éalaitheoir''' 25m HVS (5a) C Ó Fiannachta, J Mcnulty. 19/06/2021
	A few metres right of Garda Síochána there is a bulge/overhang at mid height split by a thin crack (crux). This route takes a direct line through this. Start at the second short rightward facing corner directly below the bulge and continue in a direct line. Hard but well protected crux leads to easier climbing. Cleaned prior, lead onsight		A few metres right of Garda Síochána there is a bulge/overhang at mid height split by a thin crack (crux). This route takes a direct line through this. Start at the second short rightward facing corner directly below the bulge and continue in a direct line. Hard but well protected crux leads to easier climbing. Cleaned prior, lead onsight
		+
		+	3a. Slí na Fianna. 25m HS 4b * (C Ó Fiannachta, L Slaughter, 12/07/2021)This route takes a direct line up the series of cleaned bulges and cracks just left of Dreadnought and finishing up the slightly dodgy looking detached pillar/arête. Start at a low rightward facing corner step and climb up to below yellow stained bulge swing left to good pockets under bulge then back right to stay on bulge. Follow cracks on bulges to top.

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
 '''This gneiss crag is situated in the Ox mountains in County Sligo. OS Grid Ref G642278, Sheet 25, Collooney. Lat/Long 54.1976, -8.5491. Take the road from Ballysadare to Ballina. Take a minor road on the left after 3Km signed for Cooney L6102. This leads, in a short distance, to the crag in the town lands of Collooney. Continue along this road to reach [[Happy Valli]] crag.'''
-'''The original routes are focused on the triangular face more visible from the road, however a lot of cleaning and development has been done recently (2018 - 2021) on the left side opening up 10 new routes worth doing. Grades range from S to E2. Care should be take on newer routes as there is still a bit of loose rock about!'''
+'''The original routes are focused on the triangular face more visible from the road, however a lot of cleaning and development has been done recently (2018 - 2021) on the left side opening up 10 new routes worth doing. Grades range from S to E2. Care should be taken on newer routes as there is still a bit of loose rock about!'''
 '''Numbers are far left to right from the bottom of the crag'''