Rocky Valley - Revision history

Moac: /* HOLLY TREE CRAG (the original crag) */

2024-05-14T19:33:32Z

HOLLY TREE CRAG (the original crag)

Moac: Added photos of new safer access point

2024-05-14T19:20:07Z

Added photos of new safer access point

Moac: /* HOLLY TREE CRAG (the original crag) */

2024-05-13T18:59:07Z

HOLLY TREE CRAG (the original crag)

Barney: /* Cnoch na nGabhar (Knocknagower) */

2022-07-14T18:24:39Z

Cnoch na nGabhar (Knocknagower)

Barney at 17:04, 22 May 2021

2021-05-22T17:04:31Z

Barney at 18:59, 21 May 2021

2021-05-21T18:59:12Z

Barney at 11:48, 19 May 2021

2021-05-19T11:48:32Z

Timc: /* Cnoch na nGabhar (Knocknagower) */

2021-05-17T19:42:02Z

Cnoch na nGabhar (Knocknagower)

Barney at 15:52, 17 May 2021

2021-05-17T15:52:13Z

Barney at 15:39, 17 May 2021

2021-05-17T15:39:13Z

@@ Line 6: / Line 6: @@
 These climbs are on a craglet situated above and left of a house which was once a shop on the left side of the road (note: the crag is the righthand one of two when viewed from the road).<br />Approach. Park at Healy Pottery and walk up the road for 150m to a green metal telecoms box against a low wall on the righthand side of the road (limited parking for 1 or 2 cars here). The path to the crag starts just left of the largest tree directly opposite this parking spot. Hop over the ditch and follow the track up to the foot of the crag (5 minutes from the road).   ***Note from Gerry Moss: Re Rocky Valley approach. I don't use the original approach any more, too dangerous, especially with electric cars. About 30m below the original path there is an alternative one, starting at a mature ash tree just beyond the wooden fence opposite. This gives a clear view up and down the road.***
-[[File:ScreenHunter 2168 May. 14 20.11.jpg|alt=New safer access to Holly Tree Crag|thumb|347x347px|New safer access to Holly Tree Crag]]
+[[File:ScreenHunter 2168 May. 14 20.11.jpg|alt=New safer access to Holly Tree Crag|thumb|338x338px|New safer access to Holly Tree Crag]]
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← Older revision		Revision as of 19:20, 14 May 2024
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	These climbs are on a craglet situated above and left of a house which was once a shop on the left side of the road (note: the crag is the righthand one of two when viewed from the road).<br />Approach. Park at Healy Pottery and walk up the road for 150m to a green metal telecoms box against a low wall on the righthand side of the road (limited parking for 1 or 2 cars here). The path to the crag starts just left of the largest tree directly opposite this parking spot. Hop over the ditch and follow the track up to the foot of the crag (5 minutes from the road). *Note from Gerry Moss: Re Rocky Valley approach. I don't use the original approach any more, too dangerous, especially with electric cars. About 30m below the original path there is an alternative one, starting at a mature ash tree just beyond the wooden fence opposite. This gives a clear view up and down the road.*		These climbs are on a craglet situated above and left of a house which was once a shop on the left side of the road (note: the crag is the righthand one of two when viewed from the road).<br />Approach. Park at Healy Pottery and walk up the road for 150m to a green metal telecoms box against a low wall on the righthand side of the road (limited parking for 1 or 2 cars here). The path to the crag starts just left of the largest tree directly opposite this parking spot. Hop over the ditch and follow the track up to the foot of the crag (5 minutes from the road). *Note from Gerry Moss: Re Rocky Valley approach. I don't use the original approach any more, too dangerous, especially with electric cars. About 30m below the original path there is an alternative one, starting at a mature ash tree just beyond the wooden fence opposite. This gives a clear view up and down the road.*
		+	[[File:ScreenHunter 2168 May. 14 20.11.jpg\|alt=New safer access to Holly Tree Crag\|thumb\|347x347px\|New safer access to Holly Tree Crag]]
		+	<br />

	<display_map>53.16762, -6.155155~Rocky Valley</display_map><br />[[File:RV001c.jpg\|500pxl]]		<display_map>53.16762, -6.155155~Rocky Valley</display_map><br />[[File:RV001c.jpg\|500pxl]]

@@ Line 5: / Line 5: @@
 ====HOLLY TREE CRAG (the original crag)====
-These climbs are on a craglet situated above and left of a house which was once a shop on the left side of the road (note: the crag is the righthand one of two when viewed from the road).<br />Approach. Park at Healy Pottery and walk up the road for 150m to a green metal telecoms box against a low wall on the righthand side of the road (limited parking for 1 or 2 cars here). The path to the crag starts just left of the largest tree directly opposite this parking spot. Hop over the ditch and follow the track up to the foot of the crag (5 minutes from the road).
+These climbs are on a craglet situated above and left of a house which was once a shop on the left side of the road (note: the crag is the righthand one of two when viewed from the road).<br />Approach. Park at Healy Pottery and walk up the road for 150m to a green metal telecoms box against a low wall on the righthand side of the road (limited parking for 1 or 2 cars here). The path to the crag starts just left of the largest tree directly opposite this parking spot. Hop over the ditch and follow the track up to the foot of the crag (5 minutes from the road).   ***Note from Gerry Moss: Re Rocky Valley approach. I don't use the original approach any more, too dangerous, especially with electric cars. About 30m below the original path there is an alternative one, starting at a mature ash tree just beyond the wooden fence opposite. This gives a clear view up and down the road.***
 <display_map>53.16762, -6.155155~Rocky Valley</display_map><br />[[File:RV001c.jpg|500pxl]]

@@ Line 177: / Line 177: @@
 '''12. Kilmac Macaque. E2 5b''' <br />A serious route 1m right of Stockholm Syndrome. Head straight up to the floating block (the macaque) at 2/3 height. Quietly find the last decent gear behind the macaque taking care not to wake him.  Run it out up the steep terrain trending slightly right. T. Charnecki, B. Crampton 14/05/2021
-'''13. Stockholm Syndrome. E2 5b **''' <br />This route tackles the main weakness through the obvious steep ground in the middle of the main face. Sustained from start to finish with excellent gear placements throughout. Climb up to and then follow the rightward trending crack. Exciting moves then lead up and left through the overhanging bulge. Continue through more steep ground above to the ledge. T. Charnecki, B. Crampton (both led). 01/05/2021
+'''13. Stockholm Syndrome. E2 5b **''' <br />This route tackles the main weakness through the obvious steep ground in the middle of the main face. Sustained from start to finish with excellent gear placements throughout. Climb up to and then follow the rightward trending crack. Exciting moves then lead up and left through the overhanging bulge. Continue through more steep ground above to the ledge. A great route. Tim Charnecki, Barney Crampton (both led). 01/05/2021
 '''14. Stockholm / Sniffers. E1 5a/5b**''' <br />A hybrid of The Sniffers and Stockholm Syndrome. Not really an independent route, as there is little original climbing, but included as nevertheless provides a fantastic, exciting and well protected pitch with a thrilling finish, at a grade otherwise not catered for at the crag. Climb Stockholm Syndrome up until the start of the rightward trending crack. Head diagonally up and left through steep ground until the niche of The Sniffers is attained. Continue up The Sniffers. T. Charnecki, B. Crampton (both led). 16/05/2021
-'''15. The Sniffers. HVS 5a*''' <br />Start 3m to the left of Stockholm Syndrome. Climb the obvious rightward trending crack until you reach a niche. Airy and exciting moves lead up above the niche through the middle of the upper wall. Good gear placements throughout. B. Crampton, T. Charnecki. 09/05/2021
+'''15. The Sniffers. HVS 5a*''' <br />Start 3m to the left of Stockholm Syndrome. Climb diagonally rightward above an overlap until you reach a niche (great protection available here). Airy and exciting moves lead up above the niche through the middle of the upper wall. A fun route. Barney Crampton, Tim Charnecki. 09/05/2021
 '''16. Skin the Goat. S.''' <br />Start just R of 17, below a short polished slab and steep corner. Follow the corner to the top, holds and gear improving with height.

@@ Line 169: / Line 169: @@
 G.M. B.L. 23/3/16
-'''Routes 11 to 15 are on steeper section of the crag containing short but stout routes that dry quickly.''' (see photo)
+'''Routes 11 to 15 are on a steeper section of the crag containing short but stout routes that dry quickly.''' (see photo)
 [[File:Knocknagower.jpg|alt=|thumb]]

@@ Line 173: / Line 173: @@
 [[File:Knocknagower.jpg|alt=|thumb]]
-'''11. Easy pickings. HVS 5a''' <br />The groove and twin cracks 2m right of Kilmac Macaque. The climbing is interesting and protection is adequate, but the rock quality is unfortunately less than perfect. B. Crampton, T. Charnecki 16/05/2021.
+'''11. Easy Pickings. HVS 5a''' <br />The groove and twin cracks 2m right of Kilmac Macaque. The climbing is interesting and protection is adequate, but the rock quality is unfortunately less than perfect. B. Crampton, T. Charnecki 16/05/2021.
 '''12. Kilmac Macaque. E2 5b''' <br />A serious route 1m right of Stockholm Syndrome. Head straight up to the floating block (the macaque) at 2/3 height. Quietly find the last decent gear behind the macaque taking care not to wake him.  Run it out up the steep terrain trending slightly right. T. Charnecki, B. Crampton 14/05/2021

@@ Line 176: / Line 176: @@
 B. Crampton, T. Charnecki. 09/05/2021
-'''12. Stockholm / Sniffers. E1 5a/5b**''' <br />A hybrid of The Sniffers and Stockholm Syndrome. Not really an independent route, as there is little original climbing, but included as nevertheless provides a fantastic, exciting and well protected pitch with a thrilling finish, at a grade otherwise not catered for at the crag. Climb the start of Stockholm Syndrome up until the start of the rightward trending crack. Head diagonally up and left through steep ground until the niche of The Sniffers is attained. Continue up The Sniffers. T. Charnecki, B. Crampton (both led). 16/05/2021
+'''12. Stockholm / Sniffers. E1 5a/5b**''' <br />A hybrid of The Sniffers and Stockholm Syndrome. Not really an independent route, as there is little original climbing, but included as nevertheless provides a fantastic, exciting and well protected pitch with a thrilling finish, at a grade otherwise not catered for at the crag. Climb Stockholm Syndrome up until the start of the rightward trending crack. Head diagonally up and left through steep ground until the niche of The Sniffers is attained. Continue up The Sniffers. T. Charnecki, B. Crampton (both led). 16/05/2021
 '''13. Stockholm Syndrome. E2 5b **''' <br />This route tackles the main weakness through the obvious steep ground in the middle of the main face. Sustained from start to finish with excellent gear placements throughout. Climb up to and then follow the rightward trending crack. Exciting moves then lead up and left through the overhanging bulge. Continue through more steep ground above to the ledge. T. Charnecki, B. Crampton (both led). 01/05/2021

@@ Line 122: / Line 122: @@
 ====Cnoch na nGabhar (Knocknagower)====
-'''A small quartzite crag on the north side of Rocky Valley. Okay, like it says on the tin, the climbs are short, but so is the walk-in. Two minutes – and most of that is downhill! Plus, this little crag faces into the morning sun and is sheltered from most winds – a real suntrap in the mornings and a place to climb all year round. The climbs are mostly in the lower grades and protection is variable. This little crag might suit if you are tied for time, or the weather is too dodgy to venture further afield, or if you have been driven off the mountain crags by bad weather.'''
+'''A small quartzite crag on the north side of Rocky Valley. Okay, like it says on the tin, the climbs are short, but so is the walk-in. Two minutes – and most of that is downhill! Plus, this little crag faces into the morning sun and is sheltered from most winds – a real suntrap in the mornings and a place to climb all year round. The climbs range from Mod to E2 and protection is variable. This crag might suit if you are tied for time, or the weather is too dodgy to venture further afield, or if you have been driven off the mountain crags by bad weather.'''
 Approach. Take the R755 road from the village of Kilmacanoge in the direction of Roundwood. After a little over one and a half kilometres go right at the fork (signposted Enniskerry/Powerscourt Waterfall). After less than 200m turn sharp right onto the narrow L1033 and follow this to the crest of the short, steep hill, where there is car parking on the left. Directly across from the car park a narrow path enters the furze bushes. Follow this as it goes left through the furze for about 20m to a grassy clearing. Leave the path and go down sharp right along the foot of the crag, the main face
 of which looks out over the road below.
@@ Line 169: / Line 169: @@
 G.M. B.L. 23/3/16
-'''Between Routes 10 and 11 is a steeper section containing some short but stout routes that dry quickly. These routes are described from left to right.''' (see photo)
+'''Routes 11 to 15 are on steeper section of the crag containing some short but stout routes that dry quickly. These routes are described from left to right.''' (see photo)
 [[File:Knocknagower.jpg|alt=|thumb]]
-'''10A. The Sniffers. HVS 5a*''' <br />Start 3m to the left of Stockholm Syndrome. Climb the obvious rightward trending crack until you reach a niche. Fun moves lead up above the niche through the middle of the upper wall. Good gear placements throughout.
+'''11. The Sniffers. HVS 5a*''' <br />Start 3m to the left of Stockholm Syndrome. Climb the obvious rightward trending crack until you reach a niche. Fun moves lead up above the niche through the middle of the upper wall. Good gear placements throughout.
 B. Crampton, T. Charnecki. 09/05/2021
-'''Stockholm / Sniffers. E1 5a/5b**''' <br />A hybrid of The Sniffers and Stockholm Syndrome. Not really an independent route, as there is little original climbing, but included as nevertheless provides a fantastic, exciting and well protected pitch with a thrilling finish, at a grade otherwise not catered for at the crag. Climb the start of Stockholm Syndrome up until the start of the rightward trending crack. Head diagonally up and left through steep ground until the niche of The Sniffers is attained. Continue up The Sniffers. T. Charnecki, B. Crampton (both led). 16/05/2021
+'''12. Stockholm / Sniffers. E1 5a/5b**''' <br />A hybrid of The Sniffers and Stockholm Syndrome. Not really an independent route, as there is little original climbing, but included as nevertheless provides a fantastic, exciting and well protected pitch with a thrilling finish, at a grade otherwise not catered for at the crag. Climb the start of Stockholm Syndrome up until the start of the rightward trending crack. Head diagonally up and left through steep ground until the niche of The Sniffers is attained. Continue up The Sniffers. T. Charnecki, B. Crampton (both led). 16/05/2021
-'''10B. Stockholm Syndrome. E2 5b **''' <br />This route tackles the main weakness through the obvious steep ground in the middle of the main face. Sustained from start to finish with excellent gear placements throughout. Climb up to and then follow the rightward trending crack. Exciting moves then lead up and left through the overhanging bulge. Continue through more steep ground above to the ledge. T. Charnecki, B. Crampton (both led). 01/05/2021
+'''13. Stockholm Syndrome. E2 5b **''' <br />This route tackles the main weakness through the obvious steep ground in the middle of the main face. Sustained from start to finish with excellent gear placements throughout. Climb up to and then follow the rightward trending crack. Exciting moves then lead up and left through the overhanging bulge. Continue through more steep ground above to the ledge. T. Charnecki, B. Crampton (both led). 01/05/2021
-'''10C. Kilmac Macaque. E2 5b''' <br />A serious route 1m right of Stockholm Syndrome. Head straight up to the floating block (the macaque) at 2/3 height. Quietly find the last decent gear behind the macaque taking care not to wake him.  Run it out up the steep terrain trending slightly right. T. Charnecki, B. Crampton 14/05/2021
+'''14. Kilmac Macaque. E2 5b''' <br />A serious route 1m right of Stockholm Syndrome. Head straight up to the floating block (the macaque) at 2/3 height. Quietly find the last decent gear behind the macaque taking care not to wake him.  Run it out up the steep terrain trending slightly right. T. Charnecki, B. Crampton 14/05/2021
-'''10D. Easy pickings. HVS 5a''' <br />The groove and twin cracks 2m right of Kilmac Macaque. The climbing is interesting and protection is adequate, but the rock quality is unfortunately less than perfect. B. Crampton, T. Charnecki 16/05/2021.
+'''15. Easy pickings. HVS 5a''' <br />The groove and twin cracks 2m right of Kilmac Macaque. The climbing is interesting and protection is adequate, but the rock quality is unfortunately less than perfect. B. Crampton, T. Charnecki 16/05/2021.
-'''11. Skin the Goat. S.''' <br />Start just R of 12, below a short polished slab and steep corner. Follow the corner to the top, holds and gear improving with height.
+'''16. Skin the Goat. S.''' <br />Start just R of 17, below a short polished slab and steep corner. Follow the corner to the top, holds and gear improving with height.
 G.M. B.L. 6/4/16
-'''12. Kid Stuff M.''' <br />A shallow corner running up the full height of the crag demarks the L edge of the steep section and provides an easy way, up or down, with good protection if desired.
+'''17. Kid Stuff M.''' <br />A shallow corner running up the full height of the crag demarks the L edge of the steep section and provides an easy way, up or down, with good protection if desired.
 G.M. 28/3/16
 Moving further left there is a block sitting 1m out from the base of the crag. The next two routes climb the slab above the block. Small wires are useful here.
-'''13. Slab and short crack. V.D.''' <br />On the R-hand side of the slab.
+'''18. Slab and short crack. V.D.''' <br />On the R-hand side of the slab.
 B.L. G.M. 6/4/16
-'''14. Slab and shallow corner. D.''' <br />On the L-hand side of the slab.
+'''19. Slab and shallow corner. D.''' <br />On the L-hand side of the slab.
 B.L. G.M. 30/5/16
 '''Further L again there are two blocks separated from the bottom of the crag.'''
-'''15. Three Block Arete. Diff.''' <br />Start at the smaller of the two blocks. Climb up over large blocks to the base of the blunt arete. Up this to the top.
+'''20. Three Block Arete. Diff.''' <br />Start at the smaller of the two blocks. Climb up over large blocks to the base of the blunt arete. Up this to the top.
 B.L. G.M. 4/6/16
 '''Moving further L again, scramble over a block to reach a pale-coloured block below the foot of a short slab, which is capped by steeper rock.'''
-'''16. Right Arete Diff.''' <br />Start at the pale block. Climb a long, narrow block and step across R to below a small triangular overhang near the R edge. Climb straight up from here.
+'''21. Right Arete Diff.''' <br />Start at the pale block. Climb a long, narrow block and step across R to below a small triangular overhang near the R edge. Climb straight up from here.
 B.L. G.M. 7/7/16
-'''17. Central Corner V.D.''' <br />Climb the short corner above the centre of the slab.
+'''22. Central Corner V.D.''' <br />Climb the short corner above the centre of the slab.
 B.L. G.M. 7/7/16
-'''18. Left Arete V.S. 4b''' <br />Climb the short wall above the L edge of the slab, with poor finishing holds and poor protection.
+'''23. Left Arete V.S. 4b''' <br />Climb the short wall above the L edge of the slab, with poor finishing holds and poor protection.
 B.L. G.M. 7/7/16