Roberts Cove/Roberts Head - Revision history

Lorenzo: /* Second Pillar */

2025-03-05T11:58:37Z

Second Pillar

Lorenzo: /* Second Pillar */

2024-08-28T11:44:02Z

Second Pillar

Lorenzo: /* Second Pillar */

2024-08-14T13:53:00Z

Second Pillar

Lorenzo: /* Second Pillar */

2024-08-14T13:51:07Z

Second Pillar

Lorenzo: /* 1st Lookout Wall (Second Pillar Wall) */

2024-08-14T13:35:15Z

1st Lookout Wall (Second Pillar Wall)

Lorenzo at 12:10, 14 August 2024

2024-08-14T12:10:28Z

Lorenzo: /* Second Pillar */ New Climb

2024-08-14T11:59:28Z

Second Pillar: New Climb

WarrenPickles: /* Second Pillar */

2024-08-14T11:31:43Z

Second Pillar

WarrenPickles: /* Lost Wall */

2024-08-14T11:29:46Z

Lost Wall

WarrenPickles: /* Second Pillar */

2024-08-14T11:23:17Z

Second Pillar

@@ Line 147: / Line 147: @@
 ==='''Second Pillar'''===
-Building your abseil anchor is half the challenge for the second pillar: it took us an hour to find three secure cam placements (yellows and red). Much loose rock around. Once down, there is a handy ledge that should be dry at high tide unless there is significant swell. We don't yet have a good photo showing all of each route, so descriptions will have to do for now.
+Top anchor can be built by wrapping a sling around a sturdy spike located about 5 meters above the top ledge. It requires some searching, much loose rock around. Once down, there is a handy ledge that should be dry at high tide unless there is significant swell. Routes are listed west to east (left to right facing the rock).
 Routes 1 and 2: L. De Bonis, W. Pickles, T. Pradat 10/07/2024.
@@ Line 155: / Line 153: @@
 . '''Shagspotting 20m VS 4b'''
-Good protection throughout, although you may miss the cams you used for the abseil anchor. Start at the obvious arete rising from the left end of the main face ledge. Climb on the arete / just to the left of it. The crux comes at the highest point visible from the belay. After that, the arete is less distinct, ascend and move right, to finish as 'Trundle!'. A more direct finish is possible, but the rock is loose.
+Good protection throughout. Start at the obvious arete rising from the left end of the main face ledge. Climb on the arete / just to the left of it. The crux comes at the highest point visible from the belay. After that, the arete is less distinct, ascend and move right, to finish as 'Trundle!'. A more direct finish is possible, but the rock is loose.
 . '''Trundle! 20m''' '''VS 4b'''
-The main line of the pillar, great to get started on this magnificent location. Stand in the middle of the bottom ledge and climb up slightly to the left, going straight through the first overhang on good holds. Once passed the overhang, climb up in the corner and finish by following the slab on the right.
+The main line of the pillar, great to get started on this magnificent location. Stand in the middle of the bottom ledge and climb up slightly to the left, going straight through the first overhang on good holds. Once passed the first overhang, climb up in the corner staying left of the second overhang and finish by following the slab on the right.
 Routes 3 and 4: L. De Bonis, W. Pickles, G. Giunta 13/08/2024.
@@ Line 165: / Line 163: @@
 . '''White drop 20m E1 5c'''
-A good climb with excellent protection and a single hard move. Stand in the middle of the bottom ledge and climb up slightly to the right, easily gaining the first large ledge. From there, climb straight up, aiming for the large shelf marked by white droppings. Place good protection and overcome the above bulge/overhang by pulling on small slopy holds (crux). Above the bulge climb straight up bravely through the corner or exit more easily to the left.   [[File:Second Pillar, White Drop.jpg|thumb|L. De Bonis on the crux move of White drop, belayed by G. Giunti. Photo by W. Pickles]]4. '''Chough-tastic 20m HVS 5a'''
+An exciting climb with good protection and a single hard move. Stand in the middle of the bottom ledge and climb up slightly to the right, easily gaining the first large ledge. From there, climb straight up, aiming for the large shelf marked by white droppings. Place good protection and overcome the above bulge/overhang by pulling on small slopy holds (crux). Above the bulge climb straight up bravely through the corner or exit more easily to the left.   [[File:Second Pillar, White Drop.jpg|thumb|L. De Bonis on the crux move of White drop, belayed by G. Giunti. Photo by W. Pickles]]4. '''Chough-tastic 20m HVS 5a'''
 Lovely route on the arete, right hand side of the main face of the pillar.  Protection is fairly good.  The climbing is generally on the left of the arete. About halfway up, move right to straddle the arete and climb over a slight bulge. After this, squirm up to the left of the prominent buttress.  The start might be wet at high tide or big swell.

@@ Line 163: / Line 163: @@
 Routes 3 and 4: L. De Bonis, W. Pickles, G. Giunta 13/08/2024.
-. '''White drop 20m HVS 5b'''
+. '''White drop 20m E1 5c'''
-A good climb with excellent protection and a single hard move. Stand in the middle of the bottom ledge and climb up slightly to the right, easily gaining the first large ledge. From there, climb straight up, aiming for the large shelf marked by white droppings. Place good protection and overcome the above bulge/overhang by pulling on small slopy holds (crux). Above the bulge climb straight up bravely or exit more easily to the left.   [[File:Second Pillar, White Drop.jpg|thumb|411.6x411.6px|L. De Bonis on the crux move of White drop, belayed by G. Giunti. Photo by W. Pickles]]4. '''Chough-tastic 20m HVS 5a'''
+A good climb with excellent protection and a single hard move. Stand in the middle of the bottom ledge and climb up slightly to the right, easily gaining the first large ledge. From there, climb straight up, aiming for the large shelf marked by white droppings. Place good protection and overcome the above bulge/overhang by pulling on small slopy holds (crux). Above the bulge climb straight up bravely through the corner or exit more easily to the left.   [[File:Second Pillar, White Drop.jpg|thumb|L. De Bonis on the crux move of White drop, belayed by G. Giunti. Photo by W. Pickles]]4. '''Chough-tastic 20m HVS 5a'''
 Lovely route on the arete, right hand side of the main face of the pillar.  Protection is fairly good.  The climbing is generally on the left of the arete. About halfway up, move right to straddle the arete and climb over a slight bulge. After this, squirm up to the left of the prominent buttress.  The start might be wet at high tide or big swell.

@@ Line 158: / Line 158: @@
 . '''Trundle! 20m''' '''VS 4b'''
-[[File:Second Pillar, White Drop.jpg|thumb|302.6x302.6px|L. De Bonis on the crux move of White drop, belayed by G. Giunti. Photo by W. Pickles]]
 The main line of the pillar, great to get started on this magnificent location. Stand in the middle of the bottom ledge and climb up slightly to the left, going straight through the first overhang on good holds. Once passed the overhang, climb up in the corner and finish by following the slab on the right.
@@ Line 165: / Line 165: @@
 . '''White drop 20m HVS 5b'''
-A good climb with excellent protection and a single hard move. Stand in the middle of the bottom ledge and climb up slightly to the right, easily gaining the first large ledge. From there, climb straight up, aiming for the large shelf marked by white droppings. Place good protection and overcome the above bulge/overhang by pulling on small slopy holds (crux). Above the bulge climb straight up bravely or exit more easily to the left.
+A good climb with excellent protection and a single hard move. Stand in the middle of the bottom ledge and climb up slightly to the right, easily gaining the first large ledge. From there, climb straight up, aiming for the large shelf marked by white droppings. Place good protection and overcome the above bulge/overhang by pulling on small slopy holds (crux). Above the bulge climb straight up bravely or exit more easily to the left.   [[File:Second Pillar, White Drop.jpg|thumb|411.6x411.6px|L. De Bonis on the crux move of White drop, belayed by G. Giunti. Photo by W. Pickles]]4. '''Chough-tastic 20m HVS 5a'''
 Lovely route on the arete, right hand side of the main face of the pillar.  Protection is fairly good.  The climbing is generally on the left of the arete. About halfway up, move right to straddle the arete and climb over a slight bulge. After this, squirm up to the left of the prominent buttress.  The start might be wet at high tide or big swell.

@@ Line 157: / Line 157: @@
 Good protection throughout, although you may miss the cams you used for the abseil anchor. Start at the obvious arete rising from the left end of the main face ledge. Climb on the arete / just to the left of it. The crux comes at the highest point visible from the belay. After that, the arete is less distinct, ascend and move right, to finish as 'Trundle!'. A more direct finish is possible, but the rock is loose.
 . '''Trundle! 20m''' '''VS 4b'''
+[[File:Second Pillar, White Drop.jpg|thumb|302.6x302.6px|L. De Bonis on the crux move of White drop, belayed by G. Giunti. Photo by W. Pickles]]
 The main line of the pillar, great to get started on this magnificent location. Stand in the middle of the bottom ledge and climb up slightly to the left, going straight through the first overhang on good holds. Once passed the overhang, climb up in the corner and finish by following the slab on the right.

@@ Line 174: / Line 174: @@
 Originally, this wall was called the Second Pillar Wall, which made it easy to think that it was on the Second Pillar itself. Instead, it is to the East of the Second Pillar, directly under the 1st lookout tower. Access to the routes is by abseiling from the top ledge, which is reached by scrambling down toward South from the 1st lookout tower. Just before you tackle any of these routes, give a quick wistful look over your left shoulder – if you see the majesty of the Second Pillar – go forth and conquer. Climbs are listed from right to left.
-. '''Bidet Blues 12m Diff'''<br />Obvious cleft and weakness on the far right side of the Second Pillar / 1st Lookout Wall. A nice way out after you have finished exploring.
+. '''Bidet Blues 12m Diff'''<br />Obvious cleft and weakness on the far right side of the wall. A nice way out after you have finished exploring.
 . '''Chunga Lunga&nbsp;???''' '''13m HS'''<br />Do not be perturbed by the initial bulge of this climb, a few metres to the left of Bidet Blues. After you ascend into the shallow corner just above the bulge, you will think it was just all in your mind as you amble over the easier rock above.

@@ Line 149: / Line 149: @@
 Building your abseil anchor is half the challenge for the second pillar: it took us an hour to find three secure cam placements (yellows and red). Much loose rock around. Once down, there is a handy ledge that should be dry at high tide unless there is significant swell. We don't yet have a good photo showing all of each route, so descriptions will have to do for now.
-The following two routes are on the main face of the second pillar, accessed by abseiling down to the obvious ledge.
+The following four routes are on the main face of the second pillar, accessed by abseiling down to the obvious ledge.  Routes are listed west to east.
 Routes 1 and 2: L. De Bonis, W. Pickles, T. Pradat 10/07/2024.

@@ Line 209: / Line 209: @@
 . '''Paul’s Fall 8m HVS 5a'''<br />If you find the Banana Split corner, then look to the right of it. Suddenly the rock strata becomes wiggly in waves. Somewhere in the middle of this, there is, shall we say a natural scratch (more than a crack) ascending the wall to lure the unwary upwards.
 <br />
-[[File:LostWall.jpg|thumb|This wall matches the description of the Lost Wall. July 2024]]
+[[File:LostWall.jpg|thumb|This wall matches the description of the Lost Wall. July 2024|alt=|none]]

@@ Line 153: / Line 153: @@
 Routes 1 and 2: L. De Bonis, W. Pickles, T. Pradat 10/07/2024.
-. '''Shagspotting 20m VS 4c+'''
+. '''Shagspotting 20m VS 4b'''
 Good protection throughout, although you may miss the cams you used for the abseil anchor. Start at the obvious arete rising from the left end of the main face ledge. Climb on the arete / just to the left of it. The crux comes at the highest point visible from the belay. After that, the arete is less distinct, ascend and move right, to finish as 'Trundle!'. A more direct finish is possible, but the rock is loose.
@@ Line 160: / Line 160: @@
 Stand in the middle of the bottom ledge and climb up slightly to the left, going straight through the first overhang. Once you get above it, climb up and finish by following the slab on the right.
 =='''1st Lookout Wall (Second Pillar Wall)'''==