North-facing Cliff - Revision history

Gerry Fogg: /* The West Face */

2026-01-10T18:50:06Z

The West Face

Gerry Fogg at 05:51, 24 June 2025

2025-06-24T05:51:02Z

Gerry Fogg: /* The Emperor area & main North facing cliff */

2025-01-26T20:45:21Z

The Emperor area & main North facing cliff

Gerry Fogg: /* Black Chocolate Gully - West side */

2025-01-26T20:35:19Z

Black Chocolate Gully - West side

Gerry Fogg: /* Black Chocolate Gully - West side */

2025-01-05T22:00:24Z

Black Chocolate Gully - West side

Gerry Fogg at 06:39, 11 May 2022

2022-05-11T06:39:29Z

Gerry Fogg: /* Main Gully West side [East-facing Wall] */

2022-05-11T06:11:18Z

Main Gully West side [East-facing Wall]

Gerry Fogg at 06:24, 10 May 2022

2022-05-10T06:24:11Z

Gerry Fogg at 22:04, 9 May 2022

2022-05-09T22:04:28Z

Gerry Fogg at 17:53, 1 May 2022

2022-05-01T17:53:07Z

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 Photo with most routes here: [[Media:CS_TheWestEndF9.jpg]]
-'''FILAMINGO''' 45m [HVS 5a]<br />Clean [now] corner immediately right of gully.<br />Abseil descent as for 'Prehistoric World',<br />P Britton, C Ennis, Hh Fogg; N Walls 13/6/04
+'''FILAMINGO''' 45m [HVS 5a]<br />The cleaned corner immediately right of the gully.<br />Abseil descent as for 'Prehistoric World',<br />P Britton, C Ennis, Hh Fogg; N Walls 13/6/04
 '''RED WALL AND ROOF [ED'S ROOF]''' 25m [E2 5c]<br />Back on the north-facing rock beyond Filamingo, past an undercut at ground level.<br />Climb the curving corner crack and slab to obvious crack through roof. Continue to belay at boulder above. Descent is either by abseil from old nut plus new tat or by slithering down the near-vertical woodrush to fetch up at the foot of Filamingo.<br />G Fogg, H Fogg 22/8/08 Onsight.

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 G. Fogg [1], H. Fogg [2], R. Pearson [3]   22/5/2017  Cracks cleaned on abseil.
-'''JOURNEY TO THE GREAT FLAKE&nbsp;'''&nbsp;60m &nbsp;[E1 5b, 5b]<br>
+'''JOURNEY TO THE GREAT FLAKE&nbsp;'''&nbsp;60m &nbsp;[E2 5b, 5b]<br>
 ''G. Fogg, B. Mc Connell &nbsp;15/5/2016 &nbsp;Onsight.''<br>
 An entertaining route demanding a wide range of climbing skills. It takes a plumb-line path from the ledge to the left-hand edge of the Great Flake and through an overhang on the skyline. Lower down it passes through a section of shallow chimney formed by a small corner on the right and thin jutting blocks on the left.<br>

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 '''HOREB''' 20m [E2 6a]<br />''H Fogg G Fogg 22/5/10 Abseil inspection.A test-piece from the abseil-ledge to the top.<br />''From the left-hand side of the ledge, straight up through overhang, following crack.
-'''YAMMERSCHOONER''' 70m [E3 6a 4c]<br />''G Fogg, H Fogg 21/6/09 Prior cleaning on abseil.<br />''This is the leftmost corner of the three-toothed overhang just right of base-camp boulder.<br />1. 46m Climb the ramp to ledge [level with start of the Emperor] and then left to overhanging corner. Solve the problem of what to do, then thrutch up [well-protected]. Enjoyable climbing follows to good ledge.<br />2. 25m Continue to top and boulder belay.<br />Abseil descent from tat via ledge ideal.
+'''YAMMERSCHOONER''' 70m [E3 6a 4c]<br />''G Fogg, H Fogg 21/6/09 Prior cleaning on abseil.<br />''This is the leftmost corner of the three-toothed overhang just right of base-camp boulder.<br />1. 46m Climb the ramp to ledge [level with start of the Emperor] and then left to overhanging corner. A difficult move is required to get above the undercuts and into the corner above (crux). The reward for success is an enjoyable cruise to a good ledge.<br />2. 25m Continue to top and boulder belay.<br />Abseil descent from tat via ledge ideal.
 '''VALE OF GALGOPLEYE''' 70m [E4 6a/b 5a]<br />''H Fogg, G Fogg 20/7/09 Cleaned GF, flashed HF.<br />''This is the rightmost of the three-toothed overhangs.<br />1. 35m Start as for Yammerschooner to ledge. A peg protects the move off the ledge to a tenable position and protection below the overhang. Getting further is hard. Higher up transfer delicately across to the right-hand crack and continue to a sloping belay at the left-hand end of the Emperor ledge.<br />2. 35m Bridge up chimney and continue to top to boulder belay.

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 '''COLOURS ON THE WATER''' 45m [E3 5c]<br />This is the striking crack threequarters of the way up the gully on the right hand side,<br />l. 10m Climb crack to ]edge.<br />2. 35m Continue to top<br />[Climb as one pitch]<br />Pitch 1 G Fogg, S Gallwey 9/6/06 onsight [as new start to Satanic Majesty]<br />Full route G Fogg, S Gallwey 17/6 06 onsight.<br />Cleaned and abseil point put in 21/8/07
-'''SATANIC MAJESTY''' 40m [E3/4 6a]<br />From top of gully slope, traverse along narrow ledge on right, past `Colours' to crack system near arete. Belay. [preliminary pitch ]<br />Climbing the cracks brings one to the left of a slab under the overhang at 35m. Traverse breathlessly right into the sunshine and climb more easily up the arete.<br />S Gallwey, G Fogg Aug 2001,<br />Abseil point put in 21/8/07 [Free-hanging abseil, 50m ropes OK]
+'''SATANIC MAJESTY''' 40m [E3/4 6a]<br />From top of gully slope, traverse along narrow ledge on right, past ''Colours on the Water'' to a crack system near arete. Belay. [Subsequent ascents have taken the first 10m of ''Colours on the Water'' to the ledge.]<br />Climbing the cracks brings one to the left of a slab under the overhang at 35m. Traverse breathlessly right into the sunshine and climb more easily up the arete.<br />S Gallwey, G Fogg Aug 2001,<br />Abseil point put in 21/8/07 [Free-hanging abseil, 50m ropes OK with rope stretch.]
 '''PREHISTORIC WORLD''' 40m [E1 5b 5b]<br />S. Gallwey, J. Bergin. 3 Sept. 1989<br />An exciting climb following the exposed line of the arete bounding the right-hand side of the gully.  Hard for the grade.   Start - Directly opposite the start of Birdman, just above the wedged block that spans the gully.  <br />1. 25 m. Climb up the arete to a horizontal break. Place a small wire blindly in crack high on left wall. Make hard moves to gain jugs above overlap. Continue up arete more easily to where the right wall forms an overhang. Move left onto the face and climb straight up on small holds (crux) to large holds and good protection back near the arete. Continue up arete to ledge and belay.<br />2. 15 m. After placing a high runner in the cracks to the left, climb up the arete to the flake (somewhat loose) and thence up easier ground to a magnificent belay pulpit, complete with abseil bolts.

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 '''THE TAILOR''' 75m [HVS 4b, 5b]<br />J Bergin, A Widger, 25th Aug. 1991<br />1. 30m. As for Ansty's Desire.<br />2. 45m. Gain the right hand arete, which is climbed to the top in a spectacular position. See the note re. belaying for Ansty's Desire.
-'''PERPETUAL MOTION''' 65m [E1 4b, 5b, 4c] J Bergin. S Gallwey. 23rd May 1991 Start approx 10 m to the left of the arete A Walk On The West End in an obvious west facing corner.<br />1. 20m. Climb the corner on good holds. Break onto the face at the overhang and continue on to belay on a small ledge on the face.<br />2. 20m. Climb the crack with increasing difficulties. Surmount the overhang on small holds and climb to the base of the next, larger overhang. Traverse delicately to the left and then continue up to belay on the arete.<br />3. 25m. Climb the arete to the top. This pitch is shared with A Walk On The West End, and may be made slightly harder by keeping to the left of the arete.
+'''PERPETUAL MOTION''' 65m [E1 4b, 5b, 4c] J Bergin. S Gallwey. 23rd May 1991 Start approx 10 m to the left of the arete A Walk On The West End in an obvious west facing corner.<br />1. 20m. Climb the corner on good holds. Break onto the face at the overhang and continue on to belay on a small ledge on the face.<br />2. 20m. Climb the crack with increasing difficulties. Surmount the overhang on small holds and climb to the base of the next, larger overhang. Traverse delicately to the left and then continue up to belay on the arete.<br />3. 25m. Climb the arete to the top. This pitch is shared with A Walk On The West End, and may be made slightly harder by keeping to the left of the arete.   [   '''N.B.'''  The line for this route shown on the photo above is not entirely correct.  On the second pitch, it does not go left at the overlap, as shown, but continues up to the second, larger one, before going a short distance left and then up. ]
 '''A WALK ON THE WEST END''' 55m [HS 4a,4c]<br />J. Bergin, S Gallwey. 16th May 1991<br />This route climbs the obvious arete at the end of the cliff. It is probably the best lower grade route in the Comeraghs, with a real feeling of traveling and exposure. The one 4c move is very well protected and could be aided if necessary. Start - on a slab on the west face of the arete.<br />1. 30m. Quickly gain the arete proper, and climb it to a large and convenient belay ledge.<br />2. 25m. Continue on up the sharp arete to the top. The crux is shortly above the belay.

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 '''SATANIC MAJESTY''' 40m [E3/4 6a]<br />From top of gully slope, traverse along narrow ledge on right, past `Colours' to crack system near arete. Belay. [preliminary pitch ]<br />Climbing the cracks brings one to the left of a slab under the overhang at 35m. Traverse breathlessly right into the sunshine and climb more easily up the arete.<br />S Gallwey, G Fogg Aug 2001,<br />Abseil point put in 21/8/07 [Free-hanging abseil, 50m ropes OK]
-'''PREHISTORIC WORLD''' 40m [E3 5c 5b]<br />S. Gallwey, J. Bergin. 3 Sept. 1989<br />An exciting climb following the exposed line of the arete bounding the right-hand side of the gully. Very hard to protect [doubtful peg near start gives little confidence], moves 5c at least. Start - Directly opposite the start of Birdman, just above the wedged block that spans the gully.<br />1. 25 m. Climb up the arete to a horizontal break. Place a small wire blindly in crack high on left wall. Make hard moves to gain jugs above overlap. Continue up arete more easily to where the right wall forms an overhang. Move left onto the face and climb straight up on small holds (crux) to large holds and good protection back near the arete. Continue up arete to ledge and belay.<br />2. 15 m. After placing a high runner in the cracks to the left, climb up the arete to the flake (somewhat loose) and thence up easier ground to a magnificent belay pulpit, complete with abseil bolts.
+'''PREHISTORIC WORLD''' 40m [E1 5b 5b]<br />S. Gallwey, J. Bergin. 3 Sept. 1989<br />An exciting climb following the exposed line of the arete bounding the right-hand side of the gully.  Hard for the grade.   Start - Directly opposite the start of Birdman, just above the wedged block that spans the gully.  <br />1. 25 m. Climb up the arete to a horizontal break. Place a small wire blindly in crack high on left wall. Make hard moves to gain jugs above overlap. Continue up arete more easily to where the right wall forms an overhang. Move left onto the face and climb straight up on small holds (crux) to large holds and good protection back near the arete. Continue up arete to ledge and belay.<br />2. 15 m. After placing a high runner in the cracks to the left, climb up the arete to the flake (somewhat loose) and thence up easier ground to a magnificent belay pulpit, complete with abseil bolts.
 ===The West Face===

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 '''This is the wall bounding the east side of the North Facing Cliff proper. It is located opposite and slightly lower than the Karaluk buttress. The climbing is steep and fingery on this vertical wall, with good cracks and sharp incuts.'''
-'''AMELIA''' 23m VS 4c<br />''J Bergin. A Widger, 25 Aug. 1991<br />''A fine wall route which starts almost directly under the left most of three steep corners facing the lake.<br />1. Climb up the steep left end of a ramp, where a few delicate moves lead to easier climbing to gain the corner. This is climbed using the arete on the left. At top of corner, trend right and find the least-unappealing line. Top-out horrendous.
+'''AMELIA''' 23m VS 4c<br />''J Bergin. A Widger, 25 Aug. 1991<br />''A fine wall route which starts almost directly under the left most of three steep corners facing the lake.<br />1. Climb up the steep left end of a ramp, where a few delicate moves lead to easier climbing to gain the corner. This is climbed using the arete on the left. Gain the upper wall and finish on the left of the two cracks which lead to the top of the cliff.  Hard for the grade.
-'''HARVEST MOON''' 27m [HVS 5a/b]<br />''J Bergin, A Widger, 25th Aug. 1991<br />''Start at the first section of an obvious ramp which starts immediately right of a damp section of the cliff. Climb the ramp until it is possible to bridge across to a diagonal crack to the left of a huge 'detached' block. Some strenuous jams bring you to reach the top of the flake (it might be advisable not to use camming devices behind the large block which is detached from the face). From here, follow the steep curving crack in the corner above to the top. Variation: E2 5c Follow the steep curving crack on the face which is hard uncomfortable 5c
+'''HARVEST MOON''' 27m [HVS 5a/b]<br />''J Bergin, A Widger, 25th Aug. 1991<br />''Start at the first section of an obvious ramp which starts immediately right of a damp section of the cliff. Climb the ramp until it is possible to bridge across to a diagonal crack to the left of a huge 'detached' block. Some strenuous jams bring you to reach the top of the flake (it might be advisable not to use camming devices behind the large block which is detached from the face). From here, follow the steep curving crack above to the top.  Hard for the grade.
 '''THE SLEEP OF REASON''' 35m [E3 6a]<br />''S. Gallwey (unseconded), 7 May 1989<br />''An athletic route of sustained difficulty and interest, climbing up the left (east-facing) side of the obvious steep arete where the east and north faces intersect. Start at the base of the arete. Climb out onto resting stance on right-hand wall. Reach back left into crack and make a hard move to gain better holds. Continue up with difficulty until it is possible to follow parallel diagonal cracks leftwards to the overlap. Gain hold on right above overlap, and then make a long reach out right for small incut hold. Hard strenuous moves upwards establish one on better holds above the overlap (crux). Move diagonally right to the arete to gain a good handhold, which once stood upon, provides the first "hands off" rest of the route. Climb up the arete on slightly easier ground to a ledge about 4 m. below the top. Move left off ledge to climb a short overhanging wall on large holds to the top.

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 If you liked ''A Walk on the West End'', you should enjoy this, the next and last arete beyond it.  It has been overlooked because of its vegetated nature lower down.  However, the upper section is whistle-clean and from the same songbook as its neighbours.  Moreover, the heather sprouts drily and porously from the living rock beneath and the climbing is on this and involves no pulling or reliance on vegetation.
-. 30m  Start to the left (East) of the gully to the left of the arete on knobbly rock. Protection is absent for the first ten or fifteen metres but you can be relaxed, secure in the knowledge that it is coming.  Go past the first platform and belay at the foot of the clean 2nd pitch.
+. 30m  Start to the left (East) of the gully, to the left of the arete on knobbly rock. Protection is absent for the first ten or fifteen metres but you can be relaxed, secure in the knowledge that it is coming.  Go past the first platform and belay at the foot of the clean 2nd pitch.
 .  25m The clean arete.  Belay anchors 5m up gentle grassy slope.
 G Fogg, M Griffin  8/5/2022  onsight.

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 Fortune<br />Perne in a Gyre<br />The Delta Variant<br />The Immortal Path<br />The Tower of Darkness<br />Geronimo<br />Cuinne Flaithulach<br />Anchor Alley, Greystone<br>A Mast For The Soul<br>Journey to the Great Flake<br />'''Atom Ant Wall '''<br />Crooked Smile<br />Tyger tyger<br />Grendel<br />Atom Ant<br />Slippery People<br />Controlled Burning<br />'''Grey Hotel Buttress'''<br />Damocles<br />Grey Hotel<br />'''Black Chocolate Gully – Birdman Wall'''<br />Birdman<br />Planet Clare<br />Raging cow<br />'''Black Chocolate Gully''' <br />Central Pillar of Chocolate<br />'''Bk. Choc. Gully – Satanic Majesty Wall'''<br />Colours on the Water<br />Satanic Majesty<br />Prehistoric World<br />'''West Face'''<br />Filamingo<br />Ed’s Roof<br />Stephen’s Crack<br />Chuckler<br />The Diamond<br />Griddler<br />Griddler Arete<br />'''The West End'''<br />Run Rabbit<br />Red-line Vibrations<br />Anstey’s Desire<br />The Tailor<br />Perpetual Motion<br />A Walk on the West End<br />West End Slab
 [[File:Cs north3.png|800px|Cs north3.png]]
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 .  30m  Traverse the vegetated ledge rightwards to reach clean rock. From here, aim to pass to the right of the rowans overhead. This means making repeated moves to the right. If in doubt step right.<br />
 G. Fogg, M. Griffin.  8/7/2017   Onsight.

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 .  20m Follow the rough crack and groove on left to the base of the flat face.  Go past the ''Medial Axis'' crack, along the rising grass ledge to corner/groove.
-.  38m  Climb the corner and groove.  Woodrush looks as though it blocks the way on a couple of occasions.  By happy chance, each time, it is possible to skirt around it by taking to the face on left using the edges and crimps that obligingly appear.  Anchors for the belay can be found at boulders another 20m up a steep grassy slope.
+.  38m  Climb the corner and groove.  Woodrush looks as though it blocks the way on a couple of occasions; by happy chance, each time, it is possible to skirt around it by taking to the face on left using the edges and crimps that obligingly appear.  Anchors for the belay can be found at boulders another 20m up a steep grassy slope.
 G Fogg,  M Griffin  29/4/2022  Top pitch climbed onsight.