Main Face - Revision history

Gerry Fogg at 06:06, 30 May 2026

2026-05-30T06:06:40Z

Gerry Fogg at 06:03, 30 May 2026

2026-05-30T06:03:43Z

Gerry Fogg at 18:31, 27 May 2026

2026-05-27T18:31:41Z

Gerry Fogg at 18:29, 27 May 2026

2026-05-27T18:29:52Z

Gerry Fogg: /* Crotty’s Rock / Stola Grottagh / Crotty’s Pinnacle */

2025-09-20T19:56:16Z

Crotty’s Rock / Stola Grottagh / Crotty’s Pinnacle

Gerry Fogg at 15:02, 20 September 2025

2025-09-20T15:02:19Z

Gerry Fogg at 06:35, 19 September 2025

2025-09-19T06:35:30Z

Gerry Fogg at 06:33, 19 September 2025

2025-09-19T06:33:44Z

Gerry Fogg at 06:31, 19 September 2025

2025-09-19T06:31:44Z

Gerry Fogg: /* Crotty’s Rock – Main Face */

2025-09-19T06:26:29Z

Crotty’s Rock – Main Face

@@ Line 111: / Line 111: @@
 a/b 12m - Beyond the arête a large block rests against the final wall. Climb the block to a comfortable stance. From here traverse committingly rightwards into the base of twin cracks on the steep exposed face. Climb these to gain the top.
-[The above is confusing.  Very simply: from the spikes, move 3m across and 1m up to the arete and the traverse.  The inviting-looking crack 1m beyond the first crack is not your target - it becomes offwidth higher up.]
+[The above is confusing.  Very simply: from the spikes, move 2m across and 1m up to the arete and the traverse.  The inviting-looking crack 1m beyond the first crack is not your target - it becomes offwidth higher up.]
 . - Diff 15m Exit by a traverse and short climb to the upper pinnacle.

@@ Line 111: / Line 111: @@
 a/b 12m - Beyond the arête a large block rests against the final wall. Climb the block to a comfortable stance. From here traverse committingly rightwards into the base of twin cracks on the steep exposed face. Climb these to gain the top.
-[The above is confusing.  Very simply: move 3m across and 1m up to the arete and the traverse.  The inviting-looking crack 1m beyond the first crack is not your target - it becomes offwidth higher up.]
+[The above is confusing.  Very simply: from the spikes, move 3m across and 1m up to the arete and the traverse.  The inviting-looking crack 1m beyond the first crack is not your target - it becomes offwidth higher up.]
 . - Diff 15m Exit by a traverse and short climb to the upper pinnacle.

@@ Line 110: / Line 110: @@
 . - Direct Finish    - P. Britton, G. Moss, T. O'Neill (6th May 2000)<br>
 a/b 12m - Beyond the arête a large block rests against the final wall. Climb the block to a comfortable stance. From here traverse committingly rightwards into the base of twin cracks on the steep exposed face. Climb these to gain the top.
 [The above is confusing.  Very simply: move 3m across and 1m up to the arete and the traverse.  The inviting-looking crack 1m beyond the first crack is not your target - it becomes offwidth higher up.]

@@ Line 110: / Line 110: @@
 . - Direct Finish    - P. Britton, G. Moss, T. O'Neill (6th May 2000)<br>
 a/b 12m - Beyond the arête a large block rests against the final wall. Climb the block to a comfortable stance. From here traverse committingly rightwards into the base of twin cracks on the steep exposed face. Climb these to gain the top.
 . - Diff 15m Exit by a traverse and short climb to the upper pinnacle.

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:56, 20 September 2025
Line 1:		Line 1:

−	==Crotty’s Rock / Stola Grottagh ~~/ Crotty’s Pinnacle~~==	+	==Crotty’s Rock / Stola Grottagh ==

	A number of ways have been forged up the arête of Crotty’s Rock. Maha Mind provides the most direct option and is recommended. However, all options recorded here are enjoyable. Ong Gong Arête, and its direct finish, were ground up ascent and thus follow natuarlly clean lines. The keen will start from the lowest point, but it is possible to skip the first step of rock on the first pitch, but the leader and belayer must first both get established directly under the square cut overhang above.		A number of ways have been forged up the arête of Crotty’s Rock. Maha Mind provides the most direct option and is recommended. However, all options recorded here are enjoyable. Ong Gong Arête, and its direct finish, were ground up ascent and thus follow natuarlly clean lines. The keen will start from the lowest point, but it is possible to skip the first step of rock on the first pitch, but the leader and belayer must first both get established directly under the square cut overhang above.

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
-==Crotty’s Rock – Main Face==
+==Crotty’s Rock / Stola Grottagh / Crotty’s Pinnacle==
-A number of ways have been forged up the arête on the main face of Crotty’s Rock. Maha Mind provides the most direct option and is recommended. However, all options recorded here are enjoyable. Ong Gong Arête, and its direct finish, were ground up ascent and thus follow natuarlly clean lines. The keen will start from the lowest point, but it is possible to skip the first step of rock on the first pitch, but the leader and belayer must first both get established directly under the square cut overhang above.
+A number of ways have been forged up the arête of Crotty’s Rock. Maha Mind provides the most direct option and is recommended. However, all options recorded here are enjoyable. Ong Gong Arête, and its direct finish, were ground up ascent and thus follow natuarlly clean lines. The keen will start from the lowest point, but it is possible to skip the first step of rock on the first pitch, but the leader and belayer must first both get established directly under the square cut overhang above.
 [[Image:CrottysMainFaceTopo1.jpg|350px|left|Main Face]]<br>

@@ Line 51: / Line 51: @@
 '''Maha Mind'''<br> 118m E1 5b, P. Britton, S. Gallwey, C Ennis (shared leads) ''[= S.G for the 50m pitch 3]'' , August 2003<br>A line straighter than, and in part common with, O.G.A.
-[''Originally graded HVS 5b!   With a 5b crux, it’s length, location and other challenges, this is not a pushover at E1. This route is quite an undertaking, requiring craft, technique and composure and the long dry days of mid-Summer.'']
+''[Originally graded HVS 5b!   With a 5b crux, it’s length, location and other challenges, this is not a pushover at E1. This route is quite an undertaking, requiring craft, technique and composure and the long dry days of mid-Summer.]''
 .	5a 38m Same as pitch 1 of O.G.A. i.e.  From the higher start, follow the scruffy groove to the niche under the square overhang and step boldly out right onto the blank slab. At the top of the slab, move right 3m and up to the belay.

@@ Line 59: / Line 59: @@
 .	5a 32m A 2m layback move just above the belay concludes with a balance move into a shallow groove. Climb to the right of the rib above and then enter the large V groove beyond.  Above the groove, climb the 3m right facing corner using a finger crack then move up and left into an enclosed belay.
-[''The enclosed belay is in behind a large flake. The crack with the off-width top is clearly visible above.'']
+''[The enclosed belay is in behind a large flake. The crack with the off-width top is clearly visible above.]''
 .	5b 50m Climb the left trending crack above, the last 3m is overhanging and off-width. From the good stance above, climb the right facing crack to its conclusion at 3m. Take a step up and right on the wall and climb delicately to the top, exit off the wall leftwards. Traverse some 8m over the broken blocks then climb to the final pinnacle.

@@ Line 63: / Line 63: @@
 .	5b 50m Climb the left trending crack above, the last 3m is overhanging and off-width. From the good stance above, climb the right facing crack to its conclusion at 3m. Take a step up and right on the wall and climb delicately to the top, exit off the wall leftwards. Traverse some 8m over the broken blocks then climb to the final pinnacle.
-[''Most pairs will think it sensible to take a belay immediately above the off-width crack. Above this, the looming pinnacle,  after the initial flake, has an intimidating appearance of blankness. That’s where you are going.  After this, the remainder of the route, across boulders and up a final slope is a scramble.]''<br>
+''[Most pairs will think it sensible to take a belay immediately above the off-width crack. Above this, the looming pinnacle,  after the initial flake, has an intimidating appearance of blankness. That’s where you are going.  After this, the remainder of the route, across boulders and up a final slope is a scramble.]''<br>
 '''''Oh Gee''' finish to Maha Mind: P. Britton, C. Ennis (shared leads), 23 August 2003<br> ''

@@ Line 49: / Line 49: @@
 [<u>Historical note</u>       All three of the first ascentionists of the next route ''Maha Mind,'' died climbing: Colm and Peter in the Alps and Stephen, closer to home, in Ballykeeffe.]
-'''Maha Mind'''<br> 118m E1 5b, P. Britton, S. Gallwey, C Ennis (shared leads), August 2003<br>A line straighter than, and in part common with, O.G.A.
+'''Maha Mind'''<br> 118m E1 5b, P. Britton, S. Gallwey, C Ennis (shared leads) ''[= S.G for the 50m pitch 3]'' , August 2003<br>A line straighter than, and in part common with, O.G.A.
 [''Originally graded HVS 5b!   With a 5b crux, it’s length, location and other challenges, this is not a pushover at E1. This route is quite an undertaking, requiring craft, technique and composure and the long dry days of mid-Summer.'']