Mahon Valley - Revision history

Gerry Fogg at 06:20, 3 June 2026

2026-06-03T06:20:08Z

2026-05-23T05:59:23Z

THE SMALL CRAGS

2026-05-12T21:36:08Z

2026-05-12T21:00:31Z

2026-05-12T20:58:38Z

THE SMALL CRAGS

2026-05-01T06:55:10Z

2026-04-30T21:26:37Z

2026-04-30T11:34:39Z

2026-04-30T11:08:44Z

STACK'S CLIFF

2026-04-30T11:07:09Z

STACK'S CLIFF

@@ Line 96: / Line 96: @@
 S. Gallwey, J. Bergin, Sept 1989<br>
 The route climbs the thin crack on the right hand side of the wall to gain the terrace above.
 ==Keating’s Cliff  (East-facing cliff)==

@@ Line 83: / Line 83: @@
 '''Further 100 m into the valley, the next three climbs are at an east-facing wall (facing the footpath):'''
-The first of these was Right Hand Crack in 1989. By Stephen Gallwey 8m HVS! This has ‘sandbag’ written all over it.  It is, most-assuredly, not 5a.  The other two routes, to some extent, take their lead from this.  The ‘painful hand-jams’ are to be found in the Centre Crack.  There is no jamming in the Left Hand Crack - which does not and should not involve the uncleaned crack at the very left. The Left Hand Crack is more-protectable than it appears and has the nicest climbing. G.F. May 2026.
+The first of these was Right Hand Crack in 1989.  By Stephen Gallwey 8m HVS !   This has ‘sandbag’ written all over it.  It is, most-assuredly, not 5a.  The other two routes, to some extent, take their lead from this.  The ‘painful hand-jams’ are to be found in the Centre Crack.  There is no jamming in the Left Hand Crack - which does not and should not involve the uncleaned crack at the very left. The Left Hand Crack is more-protectable than it appears and has the nicest climbing. G.F. May 2026.
 '''LEFT HAND CRACK''' 	8m	HVS 5a<br>

@@ Line 82: / Line 82: @@
 '''Further 100 m into the valley, the next three climbs are at an east-facing wall (facing the footpath):'''
 The first of these was Right Hand Crack in 1989. By Stephen Gallwey 8m HVS! This has ‘sandbag’ written all over it.  It is, most-assuredly, not 5a.  The other two routes, to some extent, take their lead from this.  The ‘painful hand-jams’ are to be found in the Centre Crack.  There is no jamming in the Left Hand Crack - which does not and should not involve the uncleaned crack at the very left. The Left Hand Crack is more-protectable than it appears and has the nicest climbing. G.F. May 2026.
 '''LEFT HAND CRACK''' 	8m	HVS 5a<br>
 J Bergin, J Hennessey, June 1990<br>

@@ Line 82: / Line 82: @@
 '''Further 100 m into the valley, the next three climbs are at an east-facing wall (facing the footpath):'''
+The first of these was Right Hand Crack in 1989. By Stephen Gallwey 8m HVS! This has ‘sandbag’ written all over it.  It is, most-assuredly, not 5a.  The other two routes, to some extent, take their lead from this.  The ‘painful hand-jams’ are to be found in the Centre Crack.  There is no jamming in the Left Hand Crack - which does not and should not involve the uncleaned crack at the very left. The Left Hand Crack is more-protectable than it appears and has the nicest climbing. G.F. May 2026.
 '''LEFT HAND CRACK''' 	8m	HVS 5a<br>
 J Bergin, J Hennessey, June 1990<br>

@@ Line 7: / Line 7: @@
 <u>'''And Some Rather Less-Gentle Requests'''</u>
-#It is considered very bad manners here, as elsewhere, to climb and claim routes which have - quite obviously - been cleaned by others.  Please do not do this.
+#It is considered very bad manners here, as elsewhere, to climb and claim routes which have - quite obviously - been cleaned by others (not by me).  Please do not do this.
 #Please do not assign names - plucked apparently from thin air - to any cliff or crag in the Comeraghs. The normal and accepted practice is that otherwise-unnamed crags are named by location or by obvious identifying feature or by common usage or else, after the first route put up on them.
 #It is not acceptable in the Comeraghs - or indeed in any other traditional climbing area in Ireland - to place bolts on routes. While it is true that bolts do exist, these have only been placed for lower-offs, where there was a very good reason for them, and only then by climbers with a very long association with the area.   G.F. 16th October 2025.

@@ Line 15: / Line 15: @@
 For Yerr Own Are The Worst and Leviathan: keep left behind the big boulder to the sloping hillside.
 For the rest: follow the path towards the Falls until a ridge of moraine provides a dry path across.
-[[File:IMG 2693.jpg]]
+[[File:Mahon Small Crags.jpeg]]

@@ Line 174: / Line 174: @@
 '''INARTICULATE DREAMS''' 	20m HVS 5a (as a stand-alone route, having abseiled in) otherwise 45m E1 5b 5a in combination with pitch 1 of ''The Dreaming.''<br>
 J. Bergin, S. Ryan,. 5 August 1989<br>20m  5a.  Follow a good crack, easily and spectacularly to a crack on the left side of the overhang. Climb this to the top.
 '''THE DREAMING''' 	45m	E1 5b, 5b<br> J. Bergin, S. Gallwey, 10 May 1989

@@ Line 173: / Line 173: @@
 '''INARTICULATE DREAMS''' 	20m HVS 5a (as a stand-alone route, having abseiled in) otherwise 45m E1 5b 5a in combination with pitch 1 of ''The Dreaming.''<br>
-J. Bergin, S. Ryan,. 5 August 1989<br>20m  5a.  Follow a good crack, easily and spectacularly to a crack on the left side of the overhang. Climb this to the top.'''THE DREAMING''' 	45m	E1 5b, 5b<br> J. Bergin, S. Gallwey, 10 May 1989
+J. Bergin, S. Ryan,. 5 August 1989<br>20m  5a.  Follow a good crack, easily and spectacularly to a crack on the left side of the overhang. Climb this to the top.
 Start on the clean slab of rock two-thirds of the way up the left-hand-side of the gully, under some broken-looking rock.<br>