Mahon Valley - Revision history

Gerry Fogg 1 at 08:57, 29 August 2026

2026-08-29T08:57:41Z

Gerry Fogg at 22:07, 24 June 2026

2026-06-24T22:07:20Z

Gerry Fogg at 22:04, 24 June 2026

2026-06-24T22:04:39Z

Gerry Fogg at 22:02, 24 June 2026

2026-06-24T22:02:07Z

Gerry Fogg at 06:20, 3 June 2026

2026-06-03T06:20:08Z

Gerry Fogg: /* THE SMALL CRAGS */

2026-05-23T05:59:23Z

THE SMALL CRAGS

Gerry Fogg at 21:36, 12 May 2026

2026-05-12T21:36:08Z

Gerry Fogg at 21:00, 12 May 2026

2026-05-12T21:00:31Z

Gerry Fogg: /* THE SMALL CRAGS */

2026-05-12T20:58:38Z

THE SMALL CRAGS

Gerry Fogg at 06:55, 1 May 2026

2026-05-01T06:55:10Z

@@ Line 158: / Line 158: @@
 The 1956 routes  Heifer Buttress, Calf Rib and Hilary's Horror are described as being at the eastern end of the cliff and Jacob's Ladder[1957] as being at the western end. Assuming that the writers did not confuse east and west, that puts the 1956 routes further away from the [Mahon] Falls than Jacobs Ladder, in the direction of Waterfall Slabs.  As obvious and inviting lines on this section of the cliff are limited, there must be a strong suspicion that some, at least, of the 1969 routes followed the same lines as the 1956 routes. Locating the account of the 1956 routes would clear this up.
-[[Image:Stacks_cliff.jpg|900px|centre|Main Face]]<br>'''<u>THE PLAYGROUND AREA</u>'''
+[[Image:Stacks_cliff.jpg|900px|centre|Main Face]]<br>'''<u>THE FAR WEST END</u>'''
 Moving leftwards (to NW) from The Dreaming Gully, as the end of the cliff is reached, the ground rises, the top of the cliff slopes down, and the now-shorter cliff faces West.  There are two sections of climbable rock here, both offering single pitch routes of about 25m, with a short and easy walk back to the bottom.  Both overlook the area at the top of the Falls.  This is an area likely to be reached by the more energetic or adventurous visitors to the Falls.  Depending on whether or not you enjoy having an audience, this may or may not be an advantage; on Tuesdays in mid November, it is not an issue.
-'''<u>Playground 1</u>'''  The first (lower) section: fairly clean slabby rock with vertical cracklines.
+'''<u>Far West End 1</u>'''  The first (lower) section: fairly clean slabby rock with vertical cracklines.
 '''MENE'''  26m  VS 4c
@@ Line 170: / Line 170: @@
 G. Fogg, M. Griffin  12th November 2024  On sight.
-'''<u>PLAGROUND 2</u>'''  The second, higher section, dominated by a large hanging slab at the top.
+'''<u>Far West End 2</u>'''  The second, higher section, dominated by a large hanging slab at the top.
 '''TEKEL'''  25m  VS  4c/5a

@@ Line 8: / Line 8: @@
 #It is considered very bad manners here, as elsewhere, to climb and claim routes which have - quite obviously - been cleaned by others (not by me).  Please do not do this.
-#Please do not assign names - plucked apparently from thin air - to any cliff or crag in the Comeraghs. A first-ascentionist gets to name their route; they do not get to name the mountainside or part thereof.  The normal and accepted practice is that otherwise-unnamed crags are named by location or by obvious identifying feature or by common usage or else, after the first route put up on them.
+#Please do not assign names - plucked apparently from thin air - to any cliff or crag in the Comeraghs. A first-ascentionist gets to name their route; they do not get to name the mountainside.  The normal and accepted practice is that otherwise-unnamed crags are named by location or by obvious identifying feature or by common usage or else, after the first route put up on them.
 #It is not acceptable in the Comeraghs - or indeed in any other traditional climbing area in Ireland - to place bolts on routes. While it is true that bolts do exist, these have only been placed for lower-offs, where there was a very good reason for them, and only then by climbers with a very long association with the area.   G.F. 16th October 2025.

← Older revision		Revision as of 22:04, 24 June 2026
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	G.Fogg, M Griffin 28/5/2026 On sight.		G.Fogg, M Griffin 28/5/2026 On sight.
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@@ Line 8: / Line 8: @@
 #It is considered very bad manners here, as elsewhere, to climb and claim routes which have - quite obviously - been cleaned by others (not by me).  Please do not do this.
-#Please do not assign names - plucked apparently from thin air - to any cliff or crag in the Comeraghs. The normal and accepted practice is that otherwise-unnamed crags are named by location or by obvious identifying feature or by common usage or else, after the first route put up on them.
+#Please do not assign names - plucked apparently from thin air - to any cliff or crag in the Comeraghs. A first-ascentionist gets to name their route; they do not get to name the mountainside or part thereof.  The normal and accepted practice is that otherwise-unnamed crags are named by location or by obvious identifying feature or by common usage or else, after the first route put up on them.
 #It is not acceptable in the Comeraghs - or indeed in any other traditional climbing area in Ireland - to place bolts on routes. While it is true that bolts do exist, these have only been placed for lower-offs, where there was a very good reason for them, and only then by climbers with a very long association with the area.   G.F. 16th October 2025.
@@ Line 34: / Line 34: @@
 G. Fogg, J. Bergin   6/7/2022  On sight.

@@ Line 96: / Line 96: @@
 S. Gallwey, J. Bergin, Sept 1989<br>
 The route climbs the thin crack on the right hand side of the wall to gain the terrace above.
 ==Keating’s Cliff  (East-facing cliff)==

← Older revision		Revision as of 05:59, 23 May 2026
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−	'''LEVIATHAN''' 9m E3 5c	+	'''LEVIATHAN''' 9m E2 5c

	- life without society.		- life without society.

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 '''Further 100 m into the valley, the next three climbs are at an east-facing wall (facing the footpath):'''
-The first of these was Right Hand Crack in 1989. By Stephen Gallwey 8m HVS! This has ‘sandbag’ written all over it.  It is, most-assuredly, not 5a.  The other two routes, to some extent, take their lead from this.  The ‘painful hand-jams’ are to be found in the Centre Crack.  There is no jamming in the Left Hand Crack - which does not and should not involve the uncleaned crack at the very left. The Left Hand Crack is more-protectable than it appears and has the nicest climbing. G.F. May 2026.
+The first of these was Right Hand Crack in 1989.  By Stephen Gallwey 8m HVS !   This has ‘sandbag’ written all over it.  It is, most-assuredly, not 5a.  The other two routes, to some extent, take their lead from this.  The ‘painful hand-jams’ are to be found in the Centre Crack.  There is no jamming in the Left Hand Crack - which does not and should not involve the uncleaned crack at the very left. The Left Hand Crack is more-protectable than it appears and has the nicest climbing. G.F. May 2026.
 '''LEFT HAND CRACK''' 	8m	HVS 5a<br>