Luggala Main Face - Revision history

Shayoh at 20:35, 27 March 2021

2021-03-27T20:35:54Z

Shayoh at 20:32, 27 March 2021

2021-03-27T20:32:50Z

Shayoh: Struggling

2021-03-27T20:27:41Z

Struggling

Shayoh at 20:22, 27 March 2021

2021-03-27T20:22:11Z

Shayoh: maybe added topo

2021-03-27T20:17:25Z

maybe added topo

Shayoh at 14:24, 27 March 2021

2021-03-27T14:24:30Z

Daveh: 1 revision imported

2021-03-09T17:05:13Z

1 revision imported

ico>Shayoh at 18:01, 26 September 2014

2014-09-26T18:01:55Z

Show changes

@@ Line 2: / Line 2: @@
 [http://www.mountaineering.ie/news/viewdetails.asp?ID=363 Printed guidebook available here]
-'''This impressive expanse of rock is located between the slabs of South and Conifer Buttresses and the deep cleft of North Gully. The face is steep and split by a succession of overhangs. The rock is generally clean and free from the ubiquitous heather. The exposed, airy nature of the climbing is emphasised by the magnificent situation high above the waters of Lough Tay. The Main Face has some of the finest and hardest test-pieces at Luggala and with all those overhangs the future for hard rock desperadoes seems assured. It also has quite a number of adequately protected good climbs at grades between VS and E1.<br>
+'''This impressive expanse of rock is located between the slabs of South and Conifer Buttresses and the deep cleft of North Gully. The face is steep and split by a succession of overhangs. The rock is generally clean and free from the ubiquitous heather. The exposed, airy nature of the climbing is emphasised by the magnificent situation high above the waters of Lough Tay. The Main Face has some of the finest and hardest test-pieces at Luggala and with all those overhangs the future for hard rock desperadoes seems assured. It also has quite a number of adequately protected good climbs at grades between VS and E1.<br>'''
-There are several means of access to the Main Face. The left-hand upper wing of the Face is approached via Conifer Terrace. Climbs such as Banshee which start at the lowest point of the Face are approached by way of the steep grassy slopes to the far right of South Buttress which lead to grassy rakes and terraces above the Main Face Slabs. A number of climbs are reached from the right-hand side of the Face by traversing in from North Gully.<br>
+'''There are several means of access to the Main Face. The left-hand upper wing of the Face is approached via Conifer Terrace. Climbs such as Banshee which start at the lowest point of the Face are approached by way of the steep grassy slopes to the far right of South Buttress which lead to grassy rakes and terraces above the Main Face Slabs. A number of climbs are reached from the right-hand side of the Face by traversing in from North Gully.'''<br>
-The first climbs described are found on the left-hand side of the Main Face, mainly below the Great Roof. They are best approached from Conifer Terrace via a narrowing in the Terrace at a shattered pillar. Some of the climbs begin directly off this right-hand end of the Terrace but others must be reached by scrambling up vegetated ground from the Terrace for 10 - 15m. All of these routes can also be reached from the top of the crag by scrambling down easy-angled slabs and vegetated gullies between Conifer Buttress and the Main Face. This is a quick approach from the top of Luggala but since the best line of descent may not be easy to find it is best suited to those who are familiar with the crag. This is ground where one could not afford to slip.'''
+'''The first climbs described are found on the left-hand side of the Main Face, mainly below the Great Roof. They are best approached from Conifer Terrace via a narrowing in the Terrace at a shattered pillar. Some of the climbs begin directly off this right-hand end of the Terrace but others must be reached by scrambling up vegetated ground from the Terrace for 10 - 15m. All of these routes can also be reached from the top of the crag by scrambling down easy-angled slabs and vegetated gullies between Conifer Buttress and the Main Face. This is a quick approach from the top of Luggala but since the best line of descent may not be easy to find it is best suited to those who are familiar with the crag. This is ground where one could not afford to slip.'''
 [[File:G page 168 Luggala main Face left a.jpg|800px|center|Main Face]]
@@ Line 76: / Line 76: @@
 . 17m Move back right and follow a flaky crack to the roof. Move left and gain the groove of Claidheamh Solais. Climb this and then the awkward chimney continuation above it, working left before an exit to the right near the top of the slab to a block belay.<br>
 C. Rice, P. Redmond, 9/10/1971
 PENTAX *&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;50m &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;VS&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;(3c,4b,4b)<br>
@@ Line 216: / Line 215: @@
 J. Lyons, October 1988.
-==MAIN FACE SLABS==
+====MAIN FACE SLABS====
 '''Below the Main Face there is a large sweep of mostly easy-angled, vegetated slabs. They are separated from the Main Face by a grassy slope and terrace which can be easily traversed either to reach the start of Main Face routes or to move between South Buttress and North Buttress. Three old routes are recorded on these slabs but they are mostly broken and vegetated. There is a clean area near the left-hand side of the slabs where the next two routes have been recorded.'''

@@ Line 2: / Line 2: @@
 [http://www.mountaineering.ie/news/viewdetails.asp?ID=363 Printed guidebook available here]
-This impressive expanse of rock is located between the slabs of South and Conifer Buttresses and the deep cleft of North Gully. The face is steep and split by a succession of overhangs. The rock is generally clean and free from the ubiquitous heather. The exposed, airy nature of the climbing is emphasised by the magnificent situation high above the waters of Lough Tay. The Main Face has some of the finest and hardest test-pieces at Luggala and with all those overhangs the future for hard rock desperadoes seems assured. It also has quite a number of adequately protected good climbs at grades between VS and E1.<br>
+'''This impressive expanse of rock is located between the slabs of South and Conifer Buttresses and the deep cleft of North Gully. The face is steep and split by a succession of overhangs. The rock is generally clean and free from the ubiquitous heather. The exposed, airy nature of the climbing is emphasised by the magnificent situation high above the waters of Lough Tay. The Main Face has some of the finest and hardest test-pieces at Luggala and with all those overhangs the future for hard rock desperadoes seems assured. It also has quite a number of adequately protected good climbs at grades between VS and E1.<br>
 There are several means of access to the Main Face. The left-hand upper wing of the Face is approached via Conifer Terrace. Climbs such as Banshee which start at the lowest point of the Face are approached by way of the steep grassy slopes to the far right of South Buttress which lead to grassy rakes and terraces above the Main Face Slabs. A number of climbs are reached from the right-hand side of the Face by traversing in from North Gully.<br>
-The first climbs described are found on the left-hand side of the Main Face, mainly below the Great Roof. They are best approached from Conifer Terrace via a narrowing in the Terrace at a shattered pillar. Some of the climbs begin directly off this right-hand end of the Terrace but others must be reached by scrambling up vegetated ground from the Terrace for 10 - 15m. All of these routes can also be reached from the top of the crag by scrambling down easy-angled slabs and vegetated gullies between Conifer Buttress and the Main Face. This is a quick approach from the top of Luggala but since the best line of descent may not be easy to find it is best suited to those who are familiar with the crag. This is ground where one could not afford to slip.
+The first climbs described are found on the left-hand side of the Main Face, mainly below the Great Roof. They are best approached from Conifer Terrace via a narrowing in the Terrace at a shattered pillar. Some of the climbs begin directly off this right-hand end of the Terrace but others must be reached by scrambling up vegetated ground from the Terrace for 10 - 15m. All of these routes can also be reached from the top of the crag by scrambling down easy-angled slabs and vegetated gullies between Conifer Buttress and the Main Face. This is a quick approach from the top of Luggala but since the best line of descent may not be easy to find it is best suited to those who are familiar with the crag. This is ground where one could not afford to slip.'''
 [[File:G page 168 Luggala main Face left a.jpg|800px|center|Main Face]]
@@ Line 77: / Line 77: @@
 C. Rice, P. Redmond, 9/10/1971
 PENTAX *&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;50m &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;VS&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;(3c,4b,4b)<br>

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
 [http://www.mountaineering.ie/news/viewdetails.asp?ID=363 Printed guidebook available here]
 This impressive expanse of rock is located between the slabs of South and Conifer Buttresses and the deep cleft of North Gully. The face is steep and split by a succession of overhangs. The rock is generally clean and free from the ubiquitous heather. The exposed, airy nature of the climbing is emphasised by the magnificent situation high above the waters of Lough Tay. The Main Face has some of the finest and hardest test-pieces at Luggala and with all those overhangs the future for hard rock desperadoes seems assured. It also has quite a number of adequately protected good climbs at grades between VS and E1.<br>
 There are several means of access to the Main Face. The left-hand upper wing of the Face is approached via Conifer Terrace. Climbs such as Banshee which start at the lowest point of the Face are approached by way of the steep grassy slopes to the far right of South Buttress which lead to grassy rakes and terraces above the Main Face Slabs. A number of climbs are reached from the right-hand side of the Face by traversing in from North Gully.<br>
 The first climbs described are found on the left-hand side of the Main Face, mainly below the Great Roof. They are best approached from Conifer Terrace via a narrowing in the Terrace at a shattered pillar. Some of the climbs begin directly off this right-hand end of the Terrace but others must be reached by scrambling up vegetated ground from the Terrace for 10 - 15m. All of these routes can also be reached from the top of the crag by scrambling down easy-angled slabs and vegetated gullies between Conifer Buttress and the Main Face. This is a quick approach from the top of Luggala but since the best line of descent may not be easy to find it is best suited to those who are familiar with the crag. This is ground where one could not afford to slip.
 [[File:G page 168 Luggala main Face left b.jpg|800px|center|Main Face]]

@@ Line 77: / Line 77: @@
 [[File:G page 168 Luggala main Face left a.jpg|800px|center|Main face left]]
-[[File:G page 168 Luggala main Face left b.jpg|800px|center|Main face left]]
+[[File:G page 168 Luggala main Face left a.jpg|800px|center|Main Face left side]]
 PENTAX *&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;50m &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;VS&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;(3c,4b,4b)<br>

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:17, 27 March 2021
Line 76:		Line 76:

	[[File:G page 168 Luggala main Face left a.jpg\|800px\|center\|Main face left]]		[[File:G page 168 Luggala main Face left a.jpg\|800px\|center\|Main face left]]
		+
		+	[[File:G page 168 Luggala main Face left b.jpg\|800px\|center\|Main face left]]

	PENTAX *    50m     VS    (3c,4b,4b)<br>		PENTAX *    50m     VS    (3c,4b,4b)<br>

@@ Line 6: / Line 6: @@
 The first climbs described are found on the left-hand side of the Main Face, mainly below the Great Roof. They are best approached from Conifer Terrace via a narrowing in the Terrace at a shattered pillar. Some of the climbs begin directly off this right-hand end of the Terrace but others must be reached by scrambling up vegetated ground from the Terrace for 10 - 15m. All of these routes can also be reached from the top of the crag by scrambling down easy-angled slabs and vegetated gullies between Conifer Buttress and the Main Face. This is a quick approach from the top of Luggala but since the best line of descent may not be easy to find it is best suited to those who are familiar with the crag. This is ground where one could not afford to slip.
-'''Download topos for the next 3 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Page 168]'''
+[[File:G page 168 Luggala main Face left b.jpg|800px|center|Main Face]]
 CLAIDHEAMH SOLAIS *&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 62m &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;VS&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;(4b)<br>
@@ Line 75: / Line 75: @@
 C. Rice, P. Redmond, 9/10/1971
-'''Download topos for the next 4 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Page 168]'''
+[[File:G page 168 Luggala main Face left a.jpg|800px|center|Main face left]]
 PENTAX *&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;50m &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;VS&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;(3c,4b,4b)<br>
@@ Line 104: / Line 104: @@
 D. Ó Sullivan, C. Sheridan, May 1988.
-'''Download topos for the next 11 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Page 177]'''
+[[File:G page 177 Luggala.jpg|800px|center|Main face]]
 THE GANNETS ***&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;85m&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; E3&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;(4b,5c,5a)<br>
@@ Line 216: / Line 216: @@
 ==MAIN FACE SLABS==
-Below the Main Face there is a large sweep of mostly easy-angled, vegetated slabs. They are separated from the Main Face by a grassy slope and terrace which can be easily traversed either to reach the start of Main Face routes or to move between South Buttress and North Buttress. Three old routes are recorded on these slabs but they are mostly broken and vegetated. There is a clean area near the left-hand side of the slabs where the next two routes have been recorded.
+'''Below the Main Face there is a large sweep of mostly easy-angled, vegetated slabs. They are separated from the Main Face by a grassy slope and terrace which can be easily traversed either to reach the start of Main Face routes or to move between South Buttress and North Buttress. Three old routes are recorded on these slabs but they are mostly broken and vegetated. There is a clean area near the left-hand side of the slabs where the next two routes have been recorded.'''
 HAIRSPRING *&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;17m&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; E1&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;(5a)<br>

← Older revision	Revision as of 17:05, 9 March 2021
(No difference)